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Phoenix III Plans PDF

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Description

Additional information.

Click HERE for Phoenix III Study Plans

Phoenix III was designed for the builder of the first boat, Paul Hernes. Paul came to me in search of plans for a dinghy which could be sailed fast and far, rowed in such a way as to be more pleasure than pain, and to be able to accommodate a small outboard motor if the conditions required it.

As it happened, I already had a design which I had been working on for many years. She was to be the perfect beachcruiser for my own use, incorporating my idea of the optimum physical dimensions for solo and two-up cruising. The modeling was done using a wooden half model laid out according to the principal dimensions I had settled on after many years of small boat sailing and rowing.

Once the modeling was complete, I made a pantograph which allowed me to take off the sections, which I then drew up as a standard set of lines on my drawing board. These lines remained dormant for about six years until I was approached by Paul Hernes, who was in search of such a design. At the time I was moving workshop and house, so did not have free access to my board. As the job needed to be done straight away, I was forced to teach myself CAD - something I had always said I would never do. Oh well, we live and learn! It turned out to be a blessing in disguise, and it has had cascading benefits.

In order to get the lines into CAD, I initially put my hand-drawn dimensions into Greg Carlson's Hulls program to generate dxf files, and then transferred the dxf's into a conventional (i.e. nothing to do with boat design) drafting program - Autocad's entry-level program, Autosketch.

A major advantage of having taken the step of using a CAD program is that the need for lofting has been removed. The dimensions shown on the bulkheads and molds are accurate enough for direct use, and have been tested by the builder of the prototype.

She has been given a spritsail with a jib set flying (i.e. a jib which is not attached to a separate stay). The spritsail sloop is one of the few sloop rigs which can carry a jib effectively without stays, shrouds or backstays of any type. This is because the sprit places the head of the mainsail in tension, which is in turn translated into tension in the luff of the jib. Therefore, there are no stays on this boat at all - just place the mast into the step and partner, and off you go!

Considerable thought went into centreboard placement and design, as I really wanted the boat to balance under mainsail alone as well as under full sail. This she does quite well. In heavy conditions, raising the centerboard a bit eases the boat and moves the centre-of-lateral resistance aft. I've sailed her in thirty knot winds under reefed mainsail alone, and was quite comfortable (although I am battle hardened, as I also sail a wooden International Finn!).

The centerboard is of generous area, and the centerboard case extends under the main thwart. With a centerboard shape reminiscent of that seen in Swampscott Dories, PhoenixIII's centerboard provides plenty of "bury" in the case when fully lowered, while not interfering with the correct positioning of the rowing thwart.

The forward end of the centerboard case has been angled back so that it doesn't interfere with the mast stepping process. There is no need to lift the mast to put it through a hole in the deck - just place the foot of the mast in the step and push it forward into the mast partner. The whole process is a one-handed affair, which takes about thirty seconds.

I've long held the view that the smaller a boat is, the more she will be used, and with this in mind, Phoenix III has been kept to modest dimensions: -

The shape of the hull is a compromise, as is the case with all boats. The breadth has been kept reasonably small so that she can be rowed efficiently with easy-to-stow seven foot oars. A case could be made for a wider hull in order to increase initial stability and sail-carrying power, but I kept my nerve and stayed with a narrow boat. In addition to helping make the boat a pleasure to row, the slender breadth reduces weight, and results in a fine entry angle at the bow. The fine bow angle reduces pounding and helps to make her a dry boat.

The hull structure of Phoenix III is unusually open and free of clutter, relying on built-in components such as watertight bulkheads, rowing thwart and centerboard case to add rigidity to the glued-lapstrake (clinker/plywood) skin. The glued-lapstrake construction method produces a stressed-skin hull with a very good stiffness-to-weight ratio. Bonding of major components like the bulkheads adds greatly to the strength with little added weight.

I've put plenty of sail onto this boat, and for her to be able to stand up to it the rig needs to be kept low. The whole rig can easily be stowed within the length of the boat, making for hassle-free trailering.

Boomless sails are nice and simple, but they only drive a boat well if the sheeting geometry is correct. Phoenix III has been carefully designed from the outset to be able to operate without a boom on the mainsail. For those who prefer a boom (to ease sheeting loads, or to free up the choice of sheeting points), details for an optional boom are included with the plans package.

There are buoyancy tanks built-in under the fore and aft decks, as well as under the aft thwart. A small, self-draining outboard motor splash well is also built into the aft deck as can be seen in the next photo.

If you want to row, the proportions of the rowing position must be correct, and the oars must be of the proper length. Also, the freeboard (i.e. the height of the sides of the boat above the waterline) needs to be quite low. Phoenix III has been designed to fit in with all the old rules-of-thumb, and she rows very easily. Below is a photo of Paul Hernes rowing on the day of the very first launching. The centerboard case is shaped so as to allow the oarsman to lean back at the end of the stroke.

The hull is built upside-down on a normal strongback, details of which are in the plans. There are four permanent bulkheads and a number of temporary station molds made from MDF or construction ply.

All major components of the boat are made from 6mm (1/4") marine plywood, with small amounts of 12mm (1/2") for things such as the centerboard and rudder laminations. Paul Hernes used five sheets of 6mm (1/4") and part of a sheet of 12mm (1/2"). While she is not an "instant boat", a determined first time builder should be able to make a good job of construction as long as he or she does some homework first. I strongly recommend Iain Oughtred's excellent book, " Clinker Plywood Boatbuilding Manual" as well as John Brooks and Ruth Anne Hill's book, " How To Build Glued-Lapstrake Wooden Boats" .

As was so often advised by William Atkin and L. Francis Herreshoff, do not make changes to the design without consulting the designer. Everything in the design has been carefully thought through, and alterations could have serious consequences.

The plans consist of twenty-five A3 sheets of drawings, a small selection of photos, and an illustrated instruction manual of forty-odd pages. There are two separate editions of the plans - Imperial and Metric - you choose when you download the files

Click below for Phoenix III Study Plans

Click HERE for Metric Study Plans

Click HERE for Imperial Study Plans

Chuck, Just received Ross Lillistone's plans for the Phoenix III...and I honestly think I ripped him off. The plans are spectacular in their clarity and detail---but then there's the bound build book that's gotta be worth $30. all by itself. The photos throughout both the plans and the book are also amazing. My cat could build this boat (damn, I probably just blew my excuse if I screw this up, eh?) You gotta tell more people about this guy, especially the newer builders. Just don't tell Ross yet--no sense having him raise his prices until I buy the rest of his stuff. Thanks, David M

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Bayside Boatshop

By Ross Lillistone - Esk, Queensland - Australia

Phoenix and Her Sisters

It is now more than five years since the first boat was built to my Phoenix III design. The concept came about because of a decision I had come to about the optimum size for a solo or two-up coastal cruising dinghy. For much of my life I had been sailing a 15ft 2in x 5ft 11in (4.6m x 1.8m) cruising dinghy which had been designed and built by my father. Produced at the beginning of the seventies, she encompassed the building philosophy of the times. Her hull had a narrow flat bottom panel, and the topsides were made of four wide marine plywood planks per side, laid up over longitudinal battens of Western Red Cedar. Anybody who is familiar with the Hartley range of trailer-sailer designs would find her appearance to be familiar. She was named Phoenix and she is still in use to this day.

The original Phoenix, a long time ago.

Phoenix has had an eventful life, and in the process she has endeared herself to a large number of people. In my late teens and through my twenties, I spent a lot of my leisure time aboard this boat, and was able to pick up much beach-cruising experience along the way. Some trips covered a hundred kilometres over three or four days, while others were just day trips such as circumnavigating Magnetic Island off Townsville, or exploring the eastern side of Hinchinbrook Island. However, the place where Phoenix feels most at home is at the southern end of Moreton Bay, close to where she was built in 1971. Originally, Phoenix was rigged as a sloop (or knockabout) with a stayed mast set in a step on the foredeck. She carried 103sq. ft of sail in the form of a Bermudan mainsail and a staysail hanked to the forestay. With this rig she was a delightful and forgiving boat to sail, but I was becoming increasingly interested in more traditional rigs, and in particular I was fascinated by the Chinese Lugsail, otherwise known as the Chinese Junk rig. At the age of thirty, I took my first tentative steps in the field of design. Probably overcomplicating the process, but thinking that I was walking on sacred ground, I did endless drawings and calculations before making a free-standing mast, and cutting a hole in the foredeck and kingplank to accommodate the new mast. As it turned out, the new Chinese Junk rig worked superbly well, and was the primary rig on the old boat for many years and on many good trips (see the photo at the beginning of this article).

The original Phoenix showing her Chinese Junk rig.

The main difference between the Chinese rig and any other fore-and-aft rig is that the sail is controlled by a series of "sheetlets" running up to points on the leech of the sail, rather than having the main sheet run just to the boom. In fact, the Chinese boom is little more than another batten. Because the sail is controlled by an array of small "sheetlets", there is little need for sophisticated sail cloth and exotic fittings. Tensions in the rig are all very low in comparison with those in a Western rig, and Chinese sails can work effectively even when full of holes and made of inferior materials such as bamboo matting and hessian. It makes you wonder who really is the most clever after all... Since that initial rig change, Phoenix has carried many other different types and configurations of sail, and in the process I have learnt a lot about the advantages and pitfalls with tradition rigs. The experimentation continues with the old boat, and at this very time I am making a new hollow mast to support her next rig. After all, she is only forty years old! Below is a drawing of the new rig, which is once again set on a free-standing mast, but this time with a gaff-headed mainsail and a very small jib set flying. The jib has to be small so as to stand properly without the use of shrouds or backstays to provide luff tension, but the benefit of even a small jib such as this is out of all proportion to its sail area. Think of it a as "leading edge device" such as a slat on the wing of an aircraft.

The next rig for the original Phoenix.

Although Phoenix has been such a wonderful boat for our family and friends, she has some shortcomings as a solo beach-cruiser, with the main one being that she is just a bit too big to be easy to handle on and off a beach when one is operating alone. Also, being as wide as she is, rowing her is not much of a pleasure and one is forced to carry an outboard motor for auxilliary propulsion. With this in mind, I started to search for plans for a more easily handled beach-cruiser. Over a number of years I studied various designs, and read the works of experts in the field of beach-cruiser design. For personal reasons, I settled on a length of about 15 to 15-1/2 feet and a beam of 4-1/2 to 5 feet. With a growing interest in the design process driving me, I sketched various options and eventually carved a wooden half-model and made a device which allowed me to take a set of lines off the model.

The wooden half-model I made after having drawn the lines of this boat.

I found myself too busy building boats for other people, and the idea sat on the back-burner for a couple of years. However, on one particularly busy day in the workshop I was visited by a chap called Paul Hernes who wanted to build a boat in exactly the size range I had in mind. While I was dealing with a 'phone call, my able helper, Doug Laver, told Paul to abandon the idea of buying the plans he had in mind, and to get me to design a boat for him. At this particular time I was exceptionally busy and the very last thing I needed was another job, but Doug had promised on my behalf, and so it had to be done. Doug had an ulterior motive, in that he wanted me to continue with my designing but he also knew that I needed a push. The boat which resulted from this design exercise drew inspiration from my half-model, but needed to be modified in shape somewhat in order to make use of the wide plywood planks I had in mind. In honour of my father's boat, I called the new design Phoenix III (Phoenix II was the half-model, which was never built full-size).

The very first Phoenix III five minutes after her first launching.

The peak sprit needs to be tightened a bit, but she went really well The plans for Phoenix III were the very first set I ever drew using CAD, and the learning curve for me was very steep. When I look back on the plans as originally drawn, I feel a little embarrassed by the inelegant drafting, and there were a few fairing errors in the early sets. However, those have been ironed out by now, and even so, a lot of boats have been successfully built - some by complete novice builders. In part, this is because I include a 50-plus page illustrated instruction manual with the 30 sheets of A3 drawings in the plan set.

Dan Taylor's Phoenix III sailing on the west coast of the USA

A friend of mine was very impressed with the layout, size, seaworthiness and speed of Phoenix III but he lacked confidence in his ability to build a glued-lapstrake (clinker) hull, so for him I drew a set of plans for a boat which had the same layout, centreboard, rudder and rig as Phoenix III but built as a 'stitch-and-glue' hull. This required me to alter the shape of the boat because of the large panels of plywood used on the construction - but the stability, performance, and general characteristics are nearly identical. This design was named First Mate.

First Mate with the Sprit-Sloop Rig

First Mate

One of the problems in life is that everybody wants a different boat. Therefore I've been asked to draw a lot of designs over the last five years, and the workload generated has slowed down my building projects enormously. I don't think people understand just how long it takes to produce a fully dimensioned set of plans, especially if they are accompanied by an instruction manual. Some of the significant designs I have on my books are shown in the images throughout this article.

Periwinkle - designed and built for John Shrapnel

Gaff-headed Cat Rig with Flying Jib on Periwinkle

Graham Faulkner's Periwinkle showing her Cat Rig

Water Rat, a joint effort between Doug Laver and me, built by Al Burke

My 26ft powerboat design, Three Brothers

Alby, a useful little tender designed for Al Burke

Al Burke rowing the Alby he built

Flint, a light-weight design for oars and auxilliary sail

Flint, slipping along under oars

Little Egret, a 19ft beach-cruiser

Interpretation of 1910 Swedish Pilot Boat, Skum

I feel privilaged to have been able to involve myself in this sort of work as a way of life. But time and again, I suggest to people that instead of having a boat built for them by a professional, have a go at it yourself. Even better, do some thorough research and turn your hand to designing the boat as well. It should be obvious that anybody taking on the building, and possibly the designing of a boat has a responsibility to educate themselves enough to produce something which is strong and safe in use. But there is plenty of good information available in print, and many people who are willing to help (but be careful who you choose). One of the very highest quality text books available is "The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction" written and published by the people who make WEST System® Brand Products. You can obtain copies through ATL Composites, the manufacturers of WEST System epoxy in Australia.

Phoenix III - Photo by Paul Hernes

Well, it is pretty difficult for me to pin down when my obsession with boats started, but I do know that finally taking the leap of faith required to publish a complete design started with Phoenix III. I've learnt a lot about drafting and presentation in the years that have followed, but the boats which have been completed to the first edition of the plans have turned out to be very satisfactory in use, and I am quite proud of results.

Ross' plans are available in the Duckworks store .

www.baysidewoodenboats.com.au

rosslillistonewoodenboat.blogspot.com.au

To comment on Duckworks articles, please visit one of the following:

Ross Lillistone Wooden Boats

Thursday, July 28, 2016

Phoenix iii - beachcruiser and daysailer.

after 45 years of dinghy sailing, I settled on 15ft x 4ft 6ins (to the inside of the planking) as being the best compromise between light-weight and compact size on the one hand, and carrying capacity, speed and capability on the other. All of this viewed in the context of a single-hander, or a two person crew;
good rowing geometry and performance;
self-rescuing;
trailerable;
a selection of simple, traditional, interchangeable rigs, all using the same mast step and mast partner.

The very first , beautifully built by Paul Hernes

5 comments:

Well said. Thanks!

This comment has been removed by the author.

nice informative knowledge about Beachcruiser and Daysailer,thanks for sharing with us. Free Mcx Tips

What is LWL of Phoenix III and First Mate?

Which light boat weighs more Phoenix III or First Mate with fiberglass?

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PHOENIX III

PHOENIX III is a 24.38 m Motor Yacht, built in the United Kingdom by Fairline and delivered in 2009. She is one of 10 Squadron 78 models.

Her top speed is 35.0 kn, her cruising speed is 23.0 kn, and she boasts a maximum cruising range of 660.0 nm at 11.0 kn, with power coming from two Caterpillar diesel engines. She can accommodate up to 8 guests in 4 staterooms, with 2 crew members waiting on their every need. She has a gross tonnage of 74.0 GT and a 5.69 m beam.

She was designed by Fairline , who also completed the naval architecture and designed the interior. Fairline has designed 8 yachts, created the naval architecture for 8 yachts, and designed the interior of 11 yachts for yachts above 24 metres.

PHOENIX III is in the top 10% by speed in the world. She is one of 5877 motor yachts in the 24-30m size range, and, compared to similarly sized motor yachts, her cruising speed is 0.81 kn above the average, and her top speed 8.5 kn above the average.

PHOENIX III is currently sailing under the Australia flag (along with a total of other 171 yachts). She is known to be an active superyacht and has most recently been spotted cruising near Australia. For more information regarding PHOENIX III's movements, find out more about BOATPro AIS .

Specifications

Name: PHOENIX III
Yacht Type: Motor Yacht
Yacht Subtype: Planing Fast Yacht
Model: Squadron 78
Builder: Fairline
Naval Architect: Fairline
Exterior Designer: Fairline
Interior Designer: Fairline

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Phoenix 3, 2012 at [email protected]

Building Phoenix III

A novice's guide to building this 15 foot daysailer, assembling the spars.

Ross has some excellent articles in his blog on how to assemble and glue the staves. I pretty well followed his advice to the letter. I was able to do most of the work single handed but it was a definite help to have some assistance for the gluing. My workshop arrangement was fairly simple, … More Assembling the spars

Spars – milling, measuring and cutting

I had already decided on two rigs, the sprit rig and the balanced lug and opted for booms for both. This meant five spars. I liked the idea of the birdsmouth method for the mast and yards and all the staves would be cut out from the longer plank of Sitka Spruce. The booms would … More Spars – milling, measuring and cutting

Making the centreboard and case

The centreboard was made at the same time as the rudder using the same stock plank of yellow cedar. It was milled to slightly thicker width and three sections were butt joined using epoxy. The centreboard shape was drawn directly onto the flattened board and cut out with the bandsaw and finished with the … More Making the centreboard and case

Making the Rudder

The 14 foot plank of yellow cedar that I collected from Stones Timber, in Salcombe, was to used for the rudder blade and centreboard. I had plans for a natural wood finish for the transom and also the rudder blade and case. The first job was to prepare the stock to an appropriate thickness. The … More Making the Rudder

Making Oars

Ross provides plans for seven and a half foot oars based on a Peter Culler design. The two planks of Sitka Spruce were both nearly 17 foot in length and three inches thick. My first plan was to use one plank for both of the oars and the other for all of the spars. This … More Making Oars

Selecting the Wood

Marine softwood for spars, centreboard and rudder Now the garage had a bit more room I was able to start considering ordering wood. Stones Marine Timber, based in Salcombe, Devon, was highly recommended. After leaving a telephone message, I was soon rang back by Tristan Stones, who runs the timber side of an interesting family … More Selecting the Wood

Building logistics

My workshop is a single garage. As well as the workbench There is a bandsaw, planer thicknesser, table saw and lathe. All the equipment is on wheels and can be moved around as needed. The length of the garage is 18 foot just long enough to accommodate a 16 foot strong back. I planned to … More Building logistics

The plans arrive

Ross Lillistone plans are fantastic value. There is a choice of a paper based A3 folder or an instant electronic download. Both come with a choice of either metric or imperial measurements. I ordered the paper metric plans and coming from Australia, I was surprised how quickly they arrived. They looked very impressive with an … More The plans arrive

Pertinent features of Phoenix III

15 foot Lightweight Primarily built for Single handed helm Manages 2-3 adult crew Seaworthy Choice of simple rigs Easy to row Able to take small outboard Straightforward build Good designer support Positive owner feedback

Questions that might be helpful when considering choice of dinghy design

For the benefit of other novices that are thinking about building a boat I have listed the questions that helped me choose Phoenix III 1) Will I be sailing single handed or with a crew. Larger boats can take 2-3+ adult crew members easily and in comfort but some designs require at least one crew … More Questions that might be helpful when considering choice of dinghy design

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Phoenix III

Wood salmon crab troller.

Dimensions: 49'5" x 14'

$80,000(usd), stock # lw6113.

Description

Vessel Name: Phoenix III
Manufacturer: Martonolich
Model: Salmon Toller
Length: 49' 5" "
Survey: March 20th 2024
Engine: 300hp Detroit 8V - 71
Engine Hours: 5,925
Fuel Consumption: 4 gallons per hour
Fuel Type: Diesel
Reduction Gear: Twin Disc, Ratio: 2.58:1
Shaft Diameter: 2" - 1/2"
Full Speed: 9 knots
Fuel Tanks: 2, Tank Material: Fiberglass
Fuel Capacity: 1120
Aux Engine: Onan 8-kw
Genset: Honda
Hydraulic pumps: Pacer
Bilge Pumps: 2 Rule

Accommodations

Stove: Dickinson Oil Range
Fridge/Freezer
Galley Sinks: S/S
Holding Tank: 20 gallons
Hull: Wood Fir
Decks: Wood
Wheelhouse: Wood
Poles: Aluminum
Mast: Aluminum
Stabilizers: Aluminum
Anti-Fouling
Holds -Type: Tuna, Salmon, Crab
Holds -Capacity: 5 tons
Anchor: Navy 250lb
Gurdies: 3 Spool Salmon

Electronics

VHF: Icom, ICM 324, 2 Furuno
Radar: Furuno 1750
Sounder: Furuno LS 6000
Plotter: Furuno
Auto Pilot: Comnav
Auto Remote
Batteries: 3 Banks 12-VDC
Steering Stations: 2 Comnav
Compass: Koden

Accessories

Microwave Oven
Spot Light: 1000 watt
Derab Block
1 Pair Trolling Poles

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This listing is presented by Margaret Harris

907-942-5310

Contact Margaret

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Great effort has been taken to provide accurate vessel information. However, Pacific Boat Brokers Inc. is not responsible for any errors or omissions, misrepresentations of equipment included, dimensions and capacities or general condition of vessels on this web site. We recommend purchasers conduct their own surveys and inspection of any potential vessel to their satisfaction.

Posted 2024-08-24 08:00

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15' Sailboat - boats - by owner - marine sale - craigslist

nearly new Phoenix III Sailboat Illness's force sale of one or two identical boats. built at the same time to race each other. Professionally built Ross Lillystone 15' beach cruiser, Balanced Lug...