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• Sails, Rigging & Deck Gear

Reefing Preferences from the Pros

We surveyed a cadre of experienced delivery skippers from around north america to find out what systems and gear they favor for reefing mainsails, and to find out what they don't like, and why..

In our August 2011 mainsail buyers guide , we looked at all the decision points that go into buying a mainsail, including material, construction, slides, and reefing systems. This article takes a more focused look at mainsail reefing from the perspective of professional offshore sailors who have to deal with reefing every day.

When done properly, reefing the mainsail can be a graceful affair, a blend of art and science that keeps strong winds from tearing the sail to pieces while bringing relief to crewmembers who have been bouncing around on deck or in the cabin below. When a reefing line gets fouled or a halyard gets stuck or a block pulls out of the boom and colorful language comingles with the breeze, reefing the mainsail can become a high-seas calamity, and a certain precursor to unsafe situations.

High winds and building seas put a premium on equipment as well as crew expertise. Getting a proper reef tucked in means getting the boat back on its feet, and how effectively each component works alone-and within the reefing system-can mean the difference between an appropriately taut mainsail or a baggy foil with scalloped sags along the luff stressing the slugs or slides and a flogging clew that causes undue wear to both the sail and the reefing gear. All of this not only wreaks havoc on the gear and the boat’s performance, but also on its occupants’ safety and peace of mind.

To better understand what reefing systems work best, and what particular items of gear function and don’t function when the wind pipes up, Practical Sailor surveyed a cadre of professional delivery skippers for their insights.

Andrew Burton of Newport, RI, is like several of the skippers we queried. He has sailed all over the world, logging some 250,000 miles in the last 30 years on boats that have had everything from iron hoops to the latest mast track systems.

“The best way to reef is sailing dead down wind,” said Burton. “The boat is stable and less likely to be pitching around in the waves. For mast track hardware, I like the Harken and Antal equipment, they’re both fabulous, especially Harken’s Bat Car system for getting the main down and being able to reef it. The only area you have to watch out for in the Harken gear is the way the batten end is attached to the car; there’s a pin, sometimes an Allen screw going into a nylon nut that can vibrate loose. It only happened to me once, on a charter boat, and not one that was maintained to private standards. Offshore, if it hits the fan with a bolt-rope system, you’ll have a hell of a time getting the sail down; same goes for a roller-furling boom, you have to turn the boat into the wind to get the sail down.”

Stan Gauthier of Crew Service International in Vancouver Island, BC, takes the opposite stance regarding in-boom furling systems: “The top dog in my opinion is the Leisure Furl in-boom furler,” he told us. “It’s made in New Zealand and a really top-notch system.

“For jiffy reefing systems, the cheapest and most effective way to tame the main is The Dutchman. [The Dutchman uses a system of monofilament lines led from the foot of the sail, through bushings, upward to the leech. This keeps the sail in line with and on the boom when it is dropped. See PS June 1, 2000.] It’s economical and really works. As the main comes down, the sail stays in line. The main problem in reefing on a bigger boat is that the sail piles up and slops over one side of the boom. The Dutchman guides the sail all the way down and keeps it out of the way.

“For blocks, I prefer Harken. By and large, they stand up to punishment, although I have seen some give way. A lot depends on whether or not the blocks are used on a regular basis. If they’re not, they can be troublesome, as can traveler cars, which can stick and generally make life difficult.”

“My feeling is that simpler is better,” said Norman Connell of Bluewater Yacht Delivery, based in the Chesapeake Bay. “A lot of people are under the impression that if you have all the reefing lines led back to the cockpit, you’ll never have to go up on deck, but you end up having to go up there anyway, whether it’s to put the cringle on or untangle something. I’d rather do it at the mast.

“And a lot of people are afraid to reef the main so they wait too long to do it and that can lead to problems. Often people take a reef in their headsail before reefing their mainsail, and then you end up with too much weather helm.

“As far as single-line systems go, anytime there’s a line in the boom running on a block that’s inaccessible inside the boom, it’s just an accident waiting to happen. I prefer slab reefing with a cheek block on one side of the boom, everything led to the gooseneck, with a winch set on the mast for tightening the clew tension.

“As far as line clutches, I’m of the sort that dislikes most gadgets-they instill a false sense of confidence in what people can do. I prefer single arm cams on the boom for securing reeflines. Isomat makes their booms this way, as do other manufacturers.

I haven’t had any problems with The Dutchman system, but I do know some skippers who have had the lines shred; if you don’t have full-batten sails with really heavy battens, you don’t really need it. Ditto for lazy jack systems-if you have to head into the wind in really rough conditions just to get lazy jacks untangled, it’s just not a good trade-off.

“It’s been years since I’ve had any blocks fail on me, but I’m not out stressing the rig, going for that extra tenth of a knot. I sail conservatively and don’t try to break things.”

“Slab reefing and in-mast furling both have their merits,” said Bob Fritz of Compass Rose Yacht Delivery in Milwaukee, WI. “I’ve sailed somewhere near 7,000 miles on an Amel Super Marmu that had in-mast furling, and although I never had a problem with it, I come from a racing background and I found the mainsail shape troubling on that rig.

“The majority of boats I’ve sailed have had slab reefing, and it works well. There was one boat I delivered with a one-line system, and I didn’t like that too much-there was too much friction on the line as it runs through all the required blocks.

“I’ve used The Dutchman, which worked well to get the sail down and keep it contained. I’ve also used the StackPack, which I didnt like. It contains the sail when you drop it, but the battens have a tendency to get caught on the lazy jacks when raised. We were headed to Bermuda and had some pretty big winds and seas. When the wind dropped from 40 knots to 25, we tried to put the main back up, but had to turn into the wind and some big seas to get the sail up, and the battens kept getting caught. It was frustrating at the time, but humorous to look back on.

“I use Harken Air Blocks on my own boat, a Hinckley Pilot 35.As for line clutches, the early Spin Locks were a pain-they were hard to release and chewed up the line, but the modern ones work well.

“When setting up a boat for reefing, I prefer lines led to the mast or boom rather than aft to the cockpit, because you end up having to go up there anyway. Most of my experience with line clutches is with Spin Locks. They’re simple and reliable. I havent had any problems with shackles deforming, but I have had some open by accident if they get hung up on something just right.”

“Redundancy is the most important thing to a delivery skipper, said Jeremy Steele-Perkins of Ocean Captain’s Group, based in Canandaigua, NY. “I’ve reefed boats of all sizes with jiffy reefing, and used in-mast furlers with some others. With jiffy reefing, if a block pulls out of the boom or some other piece of hardware gives, theres a chance to jury rig it. With in-mast furling, things get more interesting.

“I’m a Harken devotee and have a preference for their blocks and gear. This is a first-class company and has an extremely good training program for their dealers. As far as rope clutches, I prefer these over cleats. With a clutch, should it fail, you can always use a cleat as a back-up, not so with a cleat. And most clutches have evolved over the past 10 years to be very reliable.

“When we get a boat for delivery, we survey it, but a lot of the gear is still an unknown until we put a load on it. Lazy jacks are nice to have, especially on larger, full-batten mainsails like those found on Freedoms, and this is what I have on my own boat. I’ve heard good things about The Dutchman, aesthetically it looks nicer than lazy jacks. The Stak-Pak is also very nice, and while this isn’t exactly what it was designed for, we once used it as a sail in 50 knots of wind.

“Generally, I prefer lines led aft to the cockpit on a boat. The less you have to go forward, the more elements of danger you’re avoiding. We usually sail with a crew of three, so the more that one person can do in the cockpit, the better for the rest of the crew.”

“New mainsail handling equipment seems to be a really good idea when the weather’s pleasant” notes Patrick Childress , who has delivered a lengthy list of boats and co-authored A Cruising Guide to Narragansett Bay and the South Coast of Massachusetts. “But as soon as the wind picks up, the more intricate such equipment is, the less likely it works well.

“Intricate mechanical systems like in-mast furling tend to bind at higher wind speeds, especially when you’re dealing with a big mainsail that rolls into a mast and must go in perfectly.

“As far as blocks, I go with whatever is there and don’t really have a preference for one manufacturer over another. One really good idea is to use a block on a reefing cringle, which eases friction on the metal eye.

“I prefer slab reefing, and used to be an everything-at-the-mast guy, but now with many boats you can reef pretty well from the cockpit. If I do have to go forward, I like to have ‘sissy bars’ to hang on to.

“As for securing reefing lines, it depends on where the line terminates. If it’s led back to the cockpit, I prefer a cleat, like a jam cleat with a breaking device to free the line.”

“The installation is everything,” noted Adam Smith , who occasionally works with Echo Yacht Deliveries of Newport, RI. “Keeping friction and chafe to a minimum is critical in how well a reefing system is going to work, regardless of whether it’s a single- or double-line system. I prefer roller bearing blocks that keep friction low and use Ronstan and Harken the most.

“As far as mainsail handling systems, the Stak-Pak does a nice job of collecting the sail and works well for quick hops, like between islands in the Caribbean. I’ve found it causes a little chafe on full-batten mains and I like to have extra webbing stitched over batten pockets to protect them.

“Regarding the components of a reefing system, I like sail-taming systems like the Doyle StackPack and The Dutchman, if they’re sturdy enough. Part of their appeal relates to how often you have to reef. In windy places like San Francisco Bay where sailors tend to reef pretty regularly, one is more likely to appreciate these systems.

“And about mainsail reefing layouts, I have some mixed feelings. The traditionalist in me says leave the controls at the mast, which is the way it is aboard my own Pearson 35, but being able to reef from the cockpit obviously has its advantages. Principally, it keeps people off the deck in nasty weather, but often you induce more friction in the system by running all the lines back to the cockpit.”

Capt. Bernie Weiss of Atlantic Yacht Deliveries in Stamford, CT, told us that he prefers to have deep reefs in the mainsail unless the boat is set up for racing. “I don’t believe in shallow reefs. On my own boat-a fractional-rigged Tartan 33-I have two reefs. The first one reduces the mainsail by 15 to 20 percent, and the second takes out roughly the same amount.

“It’s a slab reefing system, and all the controls are at the mast. The main halyard is made fast there, so everything is within arm’s reach when I get up there to reef. I’ve got a small, single-speed Lewmar winch mounted on the boom to achieve tension on the clew reefing line. In fact, all the winches on my boat are Lewmars, they’re just so simple to maintain and reliable. That one is 25 years old and it’s never given me a even a minute of trouble. The blocks I use are Schaefer and Nicro-Fico. Both are quality products at reasonable prices.

“I don’t use a reefing line for the tack, instead, I’ve had the cringles in the luff of the sail fitted with earrings-stainless steel rings that are connected through the cringle by webbing-and I simply slip those over the tack horns on the gooseneck. This system is very straightforward and simple. It doesn’t take me much longer than a minute or a minute and 15 seconds to tie in a reef. Of course it helps to have someone in the cockpit working the helm, mainsheet, and traveler.”

Weiss stressed that there are a lot of variables that should be taken into account before one decides on a reefing system and its components. “You have to know whether the boat is to be raced or cruised, whether the typical crew is experienced or still learning, as well as what prevailing wind and general weather conditions the boat will be sailing in. Likewise, things like dodgers, which can interfere with someone’s ability to fold the main, and mainsail fabric-whether it’s heavy and stiff or light and soft-are other important factors.

“Still, there are some general principles that apply to reefing mainsails. Reefing early, before it becomes absolutely necessary, helps. For example, if I’m sailing in the ocean through the night, even with excellent wind and sea conditions, I will typically reef the main before sunset to avoid having to do so in the dark. If sailing a tender boat short-handed, I may put in a reef before I leave the dock so that when I set the main at sea, it is pre-reefed. A forecast of foul weather will also prompt me to reef early.

“The system you know and are comfortable with-whichever one that happens to be-is the best system. When initially encountering a new or unfamiliar reefing system, I would suggest reefing the main a couple of times in good weather before facing any nasty weather. Be certain that the reefing system functions properly and that you know how to get the job done quickly and efficiently. This way you can work out the optimum sequence of maneuvers, which crew is to work at which winch with which lines, and all those other important details. Simple is better than complex. The fewer lines and less tackle-the minimum gear to get the job done-is what I prefer.”

Conclusions

In order to ensure that the information derived from this survey would be as representative as possible, the respondents were deliberately chosen using two criteria: the depth of their experience, and their varied geographic locations. Admittedly, the comments compiled don’t address every item of gear involved in the mainsail reefing systems that PS readers use, and many of our respondents’ remarks are general in nature. Still, it’s clear that this group of professionals favors systems that are cleanly laid out, and simple in nature over those that have inherent complexities. Essentially, they favor slab or jiffy reefing systems, and prefer those set up with two lines rather than one.

Surprisingly, most don’t feel it’s overly important to lead reefing lines and halyards back to the cockpit, a reflection of their leaning toward simplified systems. By general consensus, these sailors aren’t big fans of in-spar furling systems, whether in the boom or in the mast. Again, they told us that this is mostly due to the complex nature of these mechanisms relative to slab or jiffy reefing alternatives.

Regarding blocks, three out of the eight respondents prefer products from Harken Yacht Equipment; one mentioned Ronstan, and one Schaefer and Nicro-Fico. There was no clear consensus regarding rope clutches vs. cleats, but Spinlock was mentioned most often as a reliable product.

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How To Reef Your Sails (Mainsail, Jib, Furling, Loose)

Learning to reef your sails is a critical skill for on the water safety and enjoyable sailing. When the wind picks up, you want to know the best way to keep your boat under control, and reefing is your first response to building breeze.

What is reefing your sails? Reefing is reducing sail area in the sail without removing or dousing the sails. Depending on your boat, you can reef sails by partially furling them, or the halyard and tying them off. With reefed sails, your boat will be easier to handle in heavier weather.

On this page:

When should you reef a sail, what happens when you reef, how do you reef the main sail, how do you reef the headsail, preparing boats for reefing, preparing for various reefing scenarios.

Reefing is not hard to learn. An important part of how to reef is knowing when to reef. Also know that reefing is a normal strategy for sailing . It's not just a survival skill for extreme conditions, it's a skill that lets you sail better in heavy wind.

Our rule for when to reef was when someone asks "do you think we should reef?" Meaning the first time the weather and wind build enough to give us some discomfort about the developing conditions, it was time to reef.

Because we had furling main and headsails, reefing was quick and easy for us so we reefed early. After all, you can always shake out the reef if conditions don't continue to deteriorate. You can't really reef too early. If you are uncomfortable with what you see happening on the water, reef the sails.

Reefing early when you're learning is smart because it takes time, especially if you have to leave the cockpit to do it. While you work, the wind may continue to build as conditions deteriorate, so the longer you wait the harder it may be to reef. You'll get faster as you do it more often, but when you're learning it's better to get an early start.

Specific signs that it may be time to reef:

• Sustained increase in wind speed, especially with large, powerful gusts.
• Out of control feeling to the boat that you can't ease by de-powering the sails.
• Storm/dark clouds on the horizon, especially in the direction you're sailing.
• Building wind-lashed waves and chop

Situational awareness when you are sailing into big breeze is critical. You don't want heavy wind to sneak up on you.

A reefed boat will sail well with a balanced helm, so get in the habit of reefing when you feel you're fighting the boat and the wind. Once you've mastered the skill you'll know when it's time, and you'll know when it's faster and more in control to reduce sail.

The aim of reefing is to reduce the sail area that you expose to the wind. This lowers the forces on the boat, reduces heeling, and restores control to the helm and sail controls in overpowering conditions. You are reefing so you can keep sailing, but with more control and less power in the rig.

One downside to this is that you often lose some sail shape. Sails are cut to be flown full, but shortening sail can impact the efficiency. When you need to reef there's usually enough wind to keep the boat moving, even with a suboptimal shape that's harder to trim. The major performance impact is on upwind sailing. Without that nice headsail shape, you may not point as high.

You'll often find that sailing reefed is as fast as sailing with all your sails out, because the boat is in control and spends less time with the rail buried, rounding up, and sailing all over as you fight the rudder to keep the boat straight. And you'll be more comfortable.

To reduce your main, you either furl it in if you can, or you drop the halyard to a set point and tie the main off on the boom with sail ties and reefing lines. The specifics vary with your rig, your equipment, and your boat and how you've set things up beforehand.

Reefing the main sail with jiffy or slab system

For boats without furling or sail handling systems, jiffy or slab reefing is the most common and easiest main reefing. You will need to leave the cockpit and work on deck to use most of these setups.

Your sails will have one or more reef points on them. Each reef point is a row of holes with grommets (called cringles ) through the sails and parallel to the foot, with a larger hole on the luff and leach of the sail. Many boats will have a reef hook , a metal hook with the end facing the deck, on the boom or near the gooseneck. Reef lines are rigged through the large cringles on the leech and tie to the boom, with one line per leech cringle. Some sails may have tie-down lines at the cringles, but this is less common on newer sails since they add weight and drag. For most sails, you will also need sail ties - short lengths of line or web meshing - for each cringle between the leech and luff.

The basic process for most mainsails follows these steps. Follow this for any reef point on the sail.

• Sail upwind to center the main and take the load off. You can work with the main to the side, but it's more difficult.
• Snug up the topping lift (if needed) to keep the end of the boom from dropping.
• Ease the mainsheet and vang a little.
• Ease the main halyard until it's far enough to attach the luff cringle to the reefing hook (if there is one) or until it's at the boom if you need to tie it.
• Hook the luff cringle to the reefing hook, or tie it firmly to the boom with a sail tie.
• Pull the matching reef line down until the leech cringle is tight to the boom and tie it off.
• Gather the body of the sail into folds.
• Put a sail tie through each sail body cringle and around the boom and tie them off so the sail is tight against the boom.
• Snug the main halyard to add appropriate luff tension, ease the topping lift, and trim the vang.

The sail is now reefed, and you can sail normally and trim it again.

To "shake out the reefs" or unreef the sail, reverse the process. Ease the halyard, undo the ties, ease the reef line, undo the reef hook, and hoist the main halyard back up.

Reefing an in-mast furling main sail

In mast furling has a lot fewer steps, since you're just putting the main partially away. It’s like fully dousing the sail, but you only go partway and stop.

Most in mast furling systems have a way they like to be put away to avoid jams going in and out, and it's important that you keep this in mind when you reef. Our furler liked the boom centered and parallel to the deck, and a little tension on it as we furled. If we reefed with the boom way out over the side on a broad reach, we were taking our chances if we didn't shake the reefing out before we furled fully. We also eased the backstay before furling in or out normally, which isn't practical when the wind is hooting up.

As a good rule of thumb, always take the reef out of your main and stow it normally after you reef . Don't just keep furling the sail in if you've reefed with a different boom and sheet tension than usual, as you may end up jamming your sail.

So keep in mind how your furler works and what you need to do for smooth furling, and don't violate those guidelines as you do these steps.

• Head upwind to take tension off the main.
• Center the boom as much as is practical.
• Ease the outhaul as you furl the sail to reduce sail area. You may have to get a little ahead with the outhaul as you ease.
• Trim the outhaul properly after you finish furling.

That's all there is to it. To unreef, just ease the sail back out all the way while unfurling. If possible, do this without changing sheet or vang tension from when you reefed in, just to be sure the sail doesn't bind.

Reefing a boom-furling main sail

When boom furling, you'll need to ease the halyard as you furl the sail to the reefed position. Because the sail furls on the boom, the foot stays taught just like a slab reefed sail, but you don't need any lines to hold it.

Like main furling, if there are any specific steps you need to take like setting the boom height or position on the boat, take care to do as much of this as possible when you reef.

Different boom furling systems have different tolerances for furling and reefing at different wind angles. Some furlers do not work will furling off the wind, while others are fine on almost any point of sail. Consult your manual for your model boom furler for directions about furling and unfurling on different points of sail, and follow them when reefing.

• Head upwind to take tension off the main halyard.
• Ease the halyard to the desired height while furling the sail.
• Check halyard tension in case you got ahead furling.

Just raise the sail again to shake out the reef when the wind drops.

Headsail reefing is easier with roller furling, but hank on sails have a few challenges if they aren't set up for reefing.

Reefing a furling headsail

Like furling mainsails, reefing a furling headsail is just putting the sail partially away. Sine the sail isn't attached to the boom, it’s even easier. All you have to change are the jib cars.

To reef a furling headsail:

• Head upwind to take load off the sail.
• Furl the sail partway to the reefing point.
• Adjust jib cars forward for new sail length.

Removing the reef is just unfurling the sail and moving the jib cars back.

Reefing the headsail with hank-on sails

Most sailors with hank-on sails "reef" by swapping the headsail out for a smaller sail. But if a hank-on headsail has reef points, it may be less work to reef it then douse and bend on a new sail.

A jib rigged for reefing will have a cringle on the luff to attach near the deck, and a cringle at the leech for a second attachment point for the sheets. Note that most hanks are not strong enough to handle the load as the tack attachment point on the sail. You want a dedicated cringle with a sturdy grommet to attach the new tack point while reefed.

To reef a jib with a hank-on headstay:

• Ease the jib halyard so the cringle in the reef point is near the deck.
• Attach the luff cringle to the reef hook or tie it to the base of the forestay.
• Move the sheets from the normal clew and tie them to the leech cringle, or use a second set of sheets if you have them.
• Bunch up the sail under the reefed areas as you can and tie with sail ties or bungees so it doesn't flap.
• Re-tension the halyard to the new position and trim the sail.

As you can see, there's going to be extra sail on the deck, which isn't as easy to contain without a boom to tie it to, and moving the sheet takes more work than main reefing.

With no preparation, boats without furling systems cannot reef those sails at all. And if you have everything you need, if you don't prepare it in advance, reefing will be much more work.

Adding foam strips to furling sails

Furling headsails lose shape and get baggy when reefed, but a sail with foam strips to stiffen the luff keeps its shape better. It won't be perfect, but it will reef in a better shape with the support.

Getting hank on and track sails

For non-furling sails you will need:

• Reef points on the sails.
• Reef lines.
• A reefing hook is best, but you can tie the sail.

In addition, you'll need to run the reefing lines through the sail before you can reef. Where the reefing line runs to on your boat varies, but the far end of each line must go through the leech cringle for that reef point then down to the boom, where it ties with a bowline around the boom or to an installed block or ring.

Most sailors don't leave reefing lines rigged because they flop around and add drag to the sails. They aren't used often in fair weather sailing and many just don't go out when a big breeze is expected. But if there is wind in the forecast, take the time to rig one or more reef points so you don't have to do it in building seas and heavy wind.

Mark your main halyard for each reef point to save time and make it easier when you're dropping the halyard. Iit will get you close enough to get the job done before you do the final trim. Use a sharpie or put a few stitches of high visibility thread in the cover at each point.

Reefing sails is the same on monohulls and catamarans, as it's the sail and rig you're worried about and the hulls have little to do with it. But other rigs and configurations beyond a sloop rig may require different or extra steps.

How you can reef when solo sailing

Reefing takes a lot of steps, and it's not always easy to do with one hand. Sailing by yourself, there won't be anyone to hold the wheel or ease lines as you haul others and tie things off.

For furling systems, the easiest way to reef with one hand (or person) is to do it step wise. As you head upwind, wase the outhaul (main) or sheet (headsail) a little, pull in the furler. Ease again, pull in again, until your sail is reefed where you want it. You can use the autopilot or your other hand to keep you on course.

For non-furling sails, single-line reefing systems can simplify the operation, as does running your reef lines, halyards, and topping lift to where you can reach them from all one place or with minimal movement.

Bring a single-line reefing kit

A single-line reefing system is a kit you install with several blocks and lines on the boom and mast to pull the tack and clew of a sail down together. It gets you out of hooking the luff cringle onto the reefing hook, since it pulls the luff down with the leech. If you need to tie down the middle of the sail, you still will need to move forward, but with the right setup, you can reef from the cockpit. It is more complex to install, but can be faster to use.

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Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

How to reef to sail safely through any weather

• September 28, 2020

Pete Goss delivers his masterclass on when to reef, and explains why it is critical to keeping control of your boat and sailing through a blow

A well-reefed boat will sail better than an overpressed one, so be prepared to change gears regularly. Credit: Pete Goss

There is nothing more rewarding when you reef than to feel a boat’s relief as she settles comfortably to a rising wind and sea.

The easier, more upright motion often helps increase the speed, loads are reduced and the crew imbued with confidence.

The decision to make that first of many reductions, followed by the attendant battle to actually get the reef in, is when the initiative is wrestled from the increasingly threatening conditions back to the crew.

It’s the first reef that settles the nerves as you mentally brace for the storm that’s soon to come.

No matter how conservatively we passage plan, even on short trips, there will always be a blow that needs to be dealt with, and preparation is the answer in both training and equipment.

As a starting point, you should get to know your boat intimately so that she can talk to you in her own language, be it through motion, creeks or the kick of the helm.

It’s no good sailing by wind speed alone because the numbers can be way off the mark, and wind strengths will feel different in varying seasons and climates.

Reefing should be like changing gears, not a stressful last resort. Photo: Pete Goss

During the British Steel Challenge I recorded every sail change and found that we could carry head sails in warm dry Mediterranean conditions in up to 15 knots more wind speed than in wet heavy airs farther north.

I am reminded of an experienced skipper swaggering down to a strong aluminium 40ft Dutch yacht in the Outer Hebrides.

He was about to set off on the next leg of the two-handed round Britain race and there was a nasty gale in the offing.

Knowing the waters I warned him that perhaps he consider delaying for 12 hours as the density of cold air gives teeth to the wind up here.

My heart sank at his bombastic reply: ‘I’ve handled stronger winds than these.’

Try as I might he just wasn’t for turning.

The Mayday came in later that day; the lifeboat was damaged by a knockdown during the callout.

The subdued Dutchman suffered a broken rib, the yacht had extensive damage including a broken frame and the mast was barely standing.

The numbers had blanketed both the power of the wind and waves.

It pays to put your nose in the air, bum in the saddle and tune in.

Systems and setup

When considering a boat and sail reduction, it is best to start with safety in mind.

Are guard rails set up properly with a rope connection at the cockpit end so they can be cut if needs be?

Is the deck nonslip still rough enough and do the crew have adequate footwear?

Decks with decent non-slip and proper footwear for crew makes deck work safer. Photo: Colin Work

Is there a handy deck knife stowed at both the mast and cockpit?

Are enough sail ties easily accessible in the cockpit?

Winches should be serviced with handles close to hand and a spare readily available below in case of loss overboard.

Can the crew clip on from inside the companionway and are the jackstays easy to use when moving about the cockpit?

Keep a knife easily to hand on deck. Photo: Rupert Holmes

Once clipped to the deck jackstay you should be able to move from cockpit to bow without unclipping.

Are the jackstays regularly replaced due to UV damage and have you checked below to make sure that the securing points are properly fastened?

The deck can be a dangerous place in a gale so make sure your crew are covered.

Setting up lines and reef points

Once you have set things up in the marina, sew markers into all lines so that you know when to stop lowering the halyard or winching in a reefing line.

Ropes stretch over time and new sails come and go.

Sewn markers can be removed so you don’t get confused by loads of old permanent marker points.

Once you’ve got your reefs set up, sew or whip markers onto the reefing lines to get the right tension every time. Photo: Theo Stocker/YM

Go up the mast and check the head when each reef is in place – you don’t want the reefed head to coincide with a track join.

Nor do you want it able to catch on rigging, flag pennants and the like.

Make sure that the changing rig loads of each reef are focused on strong points.

It’s better that a reefed head is just below the running backstays if you have them so that both can be on when it gets really rough, or at the height of the forestay or cutter stay.

Once you are happy with the set up, go through all the reefs under load and look up the mast to check that the rig remains in column, and adjust the rigging tension accordingly.

Fine-tune your set up

When putting a reef in make sure that there is sufficient reefing line tension to hold the new tack close to the gooseneck, so that when the kicker is applied the foot isn’t stretched – a common mistake of tired crew.

Put a grommet in the spot where water collects in a reefed sail, for over time huge amounts of water can build up to destabilise the boat and induce terrible chafe.

Check out the configuration of using the first reef at the gooseneck and the second at the clew to lift the boom.

Pete’s British Steel Challenge yacht pound to windward. Photo: Pete Goss

This prevents dipping when rolling downwind in very bad seas.

Many a boom has been broken about the preventer by the enormous loads that can build up as you bury the boom when surfing.

Try and prepare a list to walk through, and visualise tasks before each sail change.

During the British Steel Challenge one of the yachts forgot to remove the sail ties brailing a reef and winched several perfect vertical tears down the mainsail.

Reefing for different rigs

Starting with a blank slate, I would always choose a cutter-rigged boat when it comes to handling strong winds.

The benefits of a cutter rig is extra support for the mast and that as you reduce sail area both the centre of effort and centre of lateral resistance remain in harmony to maintain balance.

Many, if not most, coastal cruising boats these days are designed as sloops.

This is the set up for a lot of modern boats and I accept that they are often designed for coastal sailing with good forecasts and short runs to safety in mind, though many people sail them much further afield.

An inner forestay lets you set a small headsail with good shape in strong winds. Photo: Thom D’Arcy

The rig keeps things simple to handle, and also reduces costs, though this is not a cost saving I would personally accept for longer passages.

With a sloop rig, whether with hank-on or furling sails, all effort moves progressively forwards as you reduce sail area.

This makes the boat a pig to sail to windward.

The worse the conditions, the less control you have, which is a downward spiral best avoided.

With this setup you have to favour sail area in the main as you reef to keep the centre of effort as far aft as possible.

If you are going to be cruising anywhere offshore in a sloop, the best thing would be to add an inner forestay that is dedicated to a storm jib.

Chat to a rigger, but there is often enough structure in the forward part of the accommodation area to take the load.

To refine this, you can have a removable inner forestay to keep the foredeck clear in normal conditions.

A sloop is a simple and easily handled rig, though the headsail is less effective reefed. Photo: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

My preference for the staysail would be for a permanently hanked staysail with a reef in it.

This means that when a storm jib is required it can be hanked on.

I’ve sailed thousands of miles with the staysail brailed on deck and never had any chafe issues.

With this setup it’s nice to have inner grab rails fanning out from the inner forestay to tie the staysail down when dropped.

A dedicated deck bag will reduce any chance of chafe and protect the sail from UV.

Once set up you can make sure the storm jib tack is long enough to clear the hanks of the stowed staysail, which I lash to the windward rail allowing room for breaking seas to sweep under the storm-jib.

A storm jib on a removable inner stay is a practical solution for sloops needing a heavy weather option

There are a number of storm jibs that are compatible with a furled sail but I have to confess to never having used one in anger.

Indeed, we carried one on Pearl but my sense is that a simple belt-and-braces approach is the way to go when your back is against the wall.

If a furled headsail is for you then I would seriously consider the merits of a removable stay that is mounted inside the staysail for a dedicated storm jib.

This is sometimes seen as overkill but shouldn’t be discarded without careful consideration.

The truth is that Pearl came with furled headsails and I was very happy with the result.

We didn’t hit a major storm and if we had I was keen to fiddle about to finally nail this dilemma down.

Pete and Tracey Goss’ Garcia Exploration 45 had a fully battened main, which helped prevent sail flogging and maintained good shape. Photo: Pete Goss

As a racer I love the efficiency and redundancy of a number of headsails, but as a cruiser, I accept that a furled headsail is undoubtedly the way to go, particularly when short handed.

The downside is that when furled there is a huge amount of windage and weight high up.

On the Vendée Globe, when I was young and fit, I had no furlers at all aboard the Open 50 Aqua Quorum , and put the effort in for the return in efficiency.

I had done an analysis of all previous retirements and the highest cause was furler failure.

They’re not perfect, so make sure you have a good one and take spares.

The next person to race qua Quorum added furlers and found it very hard to tack her due to the extra windage pulling her bow down.

If I was to be caught in huge survival conditions in a boat with furling headsails, I would take the headsail off and stow it below during the calm before the storm.

Stack packs and lazyjacks

A stack pack, a permanently rigged sail bag attached to the boom and supported by the lazy jacks, are an enormous help for gathering in sail when reefing, though they do hinder visibility when it comes to reefing, particularly if you have single line reefing and no one watching at the mast.

A stack pack is a big help with sail handling but can hide problems

The next best thing is lazyjacks but these can chafe the sail so I always add soft webbing strops to the area that the main rests in.

A vang that supports the boom is great but even with the insurance of a stack pack or jackstays I will always have a permanently made off topping lift, ideally one that could be used as a spare main halyard if it were ever needed.

Battens and leech lines

I much prefer a fully battened mainsail rather than one with just leech battens, as it makes the sail docile, provides lovely shape and pushes the leech out for more area.

It also means that the sail doesn’t flog itself to bits when unloaded.

All sails need a leech line and this will often need to be adjusted after a reef.

Reaching them at the end of a moving boom is no mean feat, so I like to have my leech lines come to the tack for both the mainsail and headsail.

This makes it easy and safe, which in turn means this crucial job actually gets done as opposed to being guiltily ignored from the comfortable confines of a warm sprayhood on a miserable seasick day.

We’ve all seen it, but a fluttering leach can do untold damage.

Reefing line colours

I like to make sure my reefing lines are of very bright, distinctive and differing colours.

Be aware that some colours can look the same at night so get some samples to check.

In addition to this its a good idea to lead the lines in a logical manner – kicker on the inside jammer as that’s the first thing to be eased.

Then use some other logical system that works for your boat setup.

There will be occasions when straightforward verbal directions are called for.

You’ll be doing things in a hurry when it’s dark and you’re tired, so simple systems will minimise errors.

Looking after your crew

The power required to undertake any reduction of sail area comes solely from the crew.

As such, as much time and effort should be spent on the crew – whether you sail solo, as a couple or with a full crew – as you do on the boat.

It is a waste of time having a lovely setup and a tired, demotivated crew.

Rehearsal of reefing and other manoeuvres can bond a crew, and help avoid mistakes, as with Pete’s British Steel Challenge crew. Photo: Pete Goss

Make sure you are well fed before the blow and keep hydrated and fed with regular pre-organised snacks if proper meals are not practical.

No-one comes out with me until I have checked that they have adequate wet weather clothing, thermals, footwear, hats and gloves.

Bunks must have good lee-cloths and a well thought out watch system designed to make best use of them.

Personal head torches, a multitool and a couple of sail ties are essential.

All this will mean you’re set for any bad weather that does come your way.

Reef practice

There are a lot of ergonomics to a reef and I can’t over-stress the need to train, refine and train again.

I always start in the marina on a calm day to work out the best routine and to ensure that everything is set up properly.

I will then train in moderate conditions with each member of the crew taking on the different jobs in rotation.

With such a complex dance of interconnected tasks, often undertaken at night, empathy with the overall picture is essential to smooth operations.

All ropes should be flaked out and coiled after each reef, and during each watch. Photo: Theo Stocker/YM

Easing an inch in this task can make a mile of difference to the next one. Once the routine is bedded down a bit of fun can be introduced with a stop watch.

There’s nothing like competition to shake out hidden gremlins that otherwise present themselves when it’s too late.

Every evolution should be followed by a team talk so that all ideas are embraced.

In time a good crew will unthinkingly fall to the nearest job and spring collectively into well-oiled action.

The reef will be fast, safe, tidy and left ready for the next evolution.

All ropes should start to be unthinkingly flaked out and re-stowed a couple of times per watch.

Reefing underway

I have a simple template of how to reduce sail which covers crew safety and the boat’s balance.

With my cutter rig, I will put the first reef in the main and then reduce the headsail.

After that it’s the second reef followed by dropping down to the staysail alone.

This moves all subsequent deck work back to the safer area around the inner forestay.

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You might surmise that this protection of crew is unfounded when using a roller furler from the safety of the cockpit but it is good practice in case there is a gear failure.

Once I get to know a boat beyond this basic template I tweak it to her quirks, the wind direction and sea state.

When going to windward I favour more power in the main to keep the head up in confused seas.

Conversely, when going downwind I will reduce the main earlier to keep the power forward and so encourage a natural downwind preference.

This makes it easier on the helm and significantly reduces the risk of a broach.

Reefing pennants

Most people will have found that the larger the boat, the more friction there is in single-line slab reefing, and it soon becomes prohibitive.

If you have separate reefing pennants for the tack and clew, it is slightly more complicated, but will hugely reduce friction.

If you do have separate reefing pennants, or even use a ramshorn at the tack, when reefing the mainsail I always ensure that the leeward tack line is used so that the main flies away from the boom as opposed chafing on the windward side.

Indeed, if a tack is called for I will make the effort to swap the tack to the leeward side.

With single line reefing it isn’t possible to unreeve the line and change how it is led while sailing, another disadvantage of the system.

Over time the boom-end reefing pennants will often wriggle towards the gooseneck and there is nothing more demoralising than going through the effort of a reef only to find that the foot is as slack as a sack of spuds.

With the wind astern, reducing mainsail before genoa will help with tracking downwind. Photo: Thom D’Arcy

It’s very difficult to rectify this in a gale so on setting up the reefing pennants in a marina I make them off with a light line secured to the boom end.

They can always be tidied up with a strip of Gaffer tape to stop them hanging down (some booms have adjustable sliders for this task).

Remember, a full sail will produce bad windward performance and induce significantly more healing momentum.

In the worst case scenario, this will leave you more vulnerable to a knockdown.

A common practice is to make off a reefing pennant by passing it under the boom and then making a bowline back on itself.

This is perfectly functional but over time the bowline can tighten up and ‘weather’ into a solid block that is almost impossible to undo.

A boom slider will stop reefing lines creeping towards the tack, but a bowline can jam tight. Photo: Graham Snook/YM

I found that the better solution was to use a timber hitch which can be undone and made up with one hand when grappling the boom with the other in rough conditions.

This proved particularly useful during the British Steel Challenge when our hands were too cold to function properly.

I have never had one shake free in over 250,000 miles.

The reason for working at the end of the boom was that we had to leapfrog the first reef up to the forth with a mouse line.

This wasn’t perfect and although easily manageable with a large crew I don’t think I would use this technique in the future.

Communication

In the cacophony of a storm’s sound, spray and violence, it is worth having a good hand signal system to keep everyone in the loop.

Point up and circle to winch. Photo: Theo Stocker/YM

I like the crane signals of pointing upwards and circling the hand for winding in and pointing down and circling for easing.

A clenched fist means hold, and crossed forearms means the task is completed.

Point down and circle to ease. Photo: Theo Stocker/YM

I also like to have the crew’s first name to be stencilled on the back of the hood so that you you can identify individuals within the mob of a bundled up crew.

There are radio communications systems on the market but most of these are not up to a storm and impractical under a hood unless you invest heavily.

A clenched fist to hold. Photo: Theo Stocker/YM

Winching and furling

My rule on a boat, unless it is unavoidable, is to never winch a sail up or down for it is so easy to damage something due to the loss of feel.

I once tore a snagged leach line due to being bone tired in the early hours and opting for the ease of winching.

The tear ran from one reef to the next – never again.

When furling a headsail I will bear away before furling so that the sail isn’t under big loads.

This means that the sail has a more even spread of load and so reduces distortion and promotes longer life.

It’s better to furl by hand, sweating the line if needed, then to winch it and risk damaging the sail. Photo: Theo Stocker/YM

I always try to furl by sweating the furler line rather than winching.

If you treat your boat with kindness then she will look after you in turn.

It’s always worth making sure that when the headsail is fully furled a few extra turns of the sheet are added to secure it tightly.

Once in place there should be about three turns remaining on the furler drum.

This ensures there is no point load on the furler lines’ stopper knot which could otherwise chafe through during a storm.

I tie off the furler with a sail tie to avoid this absolute disaster that could drop your rig.

Stowing lines

Another vital test is to have a good system for stowing cordage once reefed.

With three reefs there is a ton of cordage kicking about which breaking seas love to knot up in the bottom of the cockpit.

Having a consistent method to stow lines and make off cleats and winches saves potentially dangerous confusion. Photo: Pete Goss

The worst thing is a halyard tail coming unravelled at the mast and being dragged under the boat to catch on the rudder or prop.

It’s also important to have a unified method of making off cordage for there will be times when the next person on watch has to work with what how you’ve left things.

In the dark it’s a great safety benefit to know how all cleats, lines and winches are made off for it can save fingers.

Reefing downwind

One issue that we all struggle with is reefing the main when going down wind.

As soon as the halyard is released the main sags onto the rigging and jams.

It’s not practical to head up into wind as the apparent will shoot through the roof and of course it means going beam on to the seas.

Reefing downwind, carefully taking in on the reefing pennant as you go, can be preferable to turning upwind. Photo: Theo Stocker/YM

I find that the best thing is to sheet in the boom to about 30º from the centre line, ease the kicker a fraction and then winch in the outer pennant so that as the leach tightens and becomes, in essence, the luff.

As soon as this happens the main will suddenly drop until the leach falls away again.

Repeat the process until the job is done.

You might have to bring the main close to a gybe to help facilitate the drop.

If it’s blowing, you sometimes have to wait for a surf to further aid the drop.

Be patient, work with the forces rather than against them.

When to shake out a reef

World-renowned racer and adventurer, Pete Goss has sailed over 250,000 miles, both racing and cruising

We are all familiar with the idea that if you are in doubt, reef in early, but you should also shake out your reefs even earlier – a lot of masts come down after the storm has passed and the boat is under-powered.

Without the steadying hand of an increased sail area, even if the violent gyrations don’t simply tear the mast out of the boat, they will make life very uncomfortable on board. particularly if the rigging has stretched or light damage has been incurred.

This is the one time that you sail to the wind only and ignore the seas for they often hump up for a short period as the wind drops off, also making broaching on the face of a wave more likely.

At the very least, it is easy to be lazy about changing back up the gears as the wind eases, but this won’t help your passage times, or the motion of the boat.

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Home > Resources > Reefing 101: How to reef a mainsail and when to do it

Reefing 101: How to reef a mainsail and when to do it

17 September 2019

Ask Precision Sails , Design , Featuring - Partners , Hardware , Headsail , Mainsail , Sails , Technical Tags: furling headsail , How to , reduce sail area , reefing headsail , reefing mainsail , sail area , sail reduction , sailcloth durability , sailcloth stretch resistance , sailcloth weight , sailing uma

Reefing is meant to increase your ease-of-use, flatten sail shape, reduce sail area, and re-position the boat’s center of effort. This reduces heeling and de-powers your sails to improve safety and stability in rough weather.

Reefing is an important part of sailing to learn and understand how to do efficiently and effectively. This guide is meant to give a general overview of the process and discuss the preparation a sailor should take. There are various methods of reefing and each sailor has their own process. Nonetheless, whether you are slab reefing, in-boom reefing, in-mast reefing your mainsail, or furling in your headsail the principles remain the same.

Preparation is essential

Being prepared for heavier winds and identifying when to reef is key to maximizing the performance and safety of the boat. Here are several things every sailor can do to be prepared:

Keep lines organized

Make sure to have your lines organized beforehand and a reefing plan in place. This will assure that each time a crew member reefs the same actions are taken to re-organize the lines so no time is lost figuring out what the preceding person has done.

Practice Makes Perfect

Taking time to exercise your reefing routine will ensure that your crew is ready when that gale approaches. Additionally, having a plan in place will keep your crew focused during turbulent weather by overcoming their hesitation with confidence to handle the situation swiftly and correctly.

Check the Forecast

With the multitude of devices and apps which show weather patterns, wind speeds, and forecast predictions available today no sailor should be fully unprepared for the weather they are going to face.

Reef Before You Need To

When it comes to knowing when to reef, not every sailor, boat, sail or breeze is equal.

“It depends on the boat, and the sailor,” says one of our designers, Jeremy Roszmann, “more cautious sailors will reef earlier, and some boats will heel more in different winds”. A boat’s design, sail inventory, and crew experience are all factors in determining when reefing should take place.

“It’s pretty difficult to give an ‘at 15 knots take your mainsail to reef 1’… headsails sort of follow the same line. You can theoretically run your 150 Genoa up to 20 knots, and I’ve had clients ask for extra reinforcements because they do, but you risk causing undue stress on the cloth, running into shape issues quicker and in-time sail failures”.

One common saying about reefing is that if you think you need to reef, you should have already reefed. “I avoid telling clients when to reef because if they feel they should reef, they should. Until either, they are more experienced sailors or they are more comfortable sailors”. Every boat is going to handle wind speeds differently due to their design and sail inventory. It is important to practice reefing so that you can be fully prepared and know when to reef before you need to.

How to Reef

While there are many methods to reefing the core concept is the same: to efficiently reduce sail area in order to stabilize the boat in varying winds. Sailing Uma has made a wonderful video on how they go about reefing their mainsail, watch the video below and visit  Sailing Uma’s partner page , and  website  to show some support.

Reefing your mainsail

• Ease the main-sheet. This will cause the mainsail to luff, stabilizing the boat by reducing heel and easing the tension on the mainsail making it easier to drop.
• Lower the main halyard, and hook the reefing point onto a carabiner or ram’s horn to set the new tack position of the sail. Tie sail ties around the boom through the grommets if necessary to contain the loose material left over. If you use a stack-pack the loose material will be gathered inside the folds.
• Haul in the first reef line.
• Tension the main halyard. Don’t be afraid to crank it tight, your sail is reinforced at it’s Cunningham.
• Tighten up the boom vang in its new position.
• Trim the main-sheet.
• Bonus Uma Tip : Stow your main halyard and lines, in the same way, each time. Then no time is wasted figuring out what the previous person had done.

Shaking Out a Reef

Follow the above steps in reverse order, making sure to re-tension and trim for the new position of the sail.

Don’t Forget Your Headsail

Adjusting your Genoa or Jib can help balance out the boat and reduce heeling. Furling in your headsail is a great way to reduce sail area.

Simply furl in your headsail as you normally would but stop prematurely to determine the size reduction you want to make.

For areas with seasonal variance in wind strength or for those sailors traveling to areas with different conditions, if you find yourself constantly furling your 150% down to 115% that you might want to consider increase your sail inventory. When you constantly are partially furling your headsail you are doing two things:

• Furling away sail shape which causes a decrease in performance compared to a sail meant for the conditions.
• Increasing the pressure applied to the unfurled portion of the sail while the other portion remains untouched from the stretching causing your sail to become “baggy” over time.

How Many Reefs Should a Mainsail Have?

Again, this will be different based on the sail inventory, experience, boat, and sailing conditions for each person. Ron, our Lead Sail Consultant regularly recommends that “one reef keeps you sailing, two gets you home safely”.

Can Reefing Damage Your Sails?

The size of the sail, cloth weave, weight, and design will all play large factors in determining how fast a sail will stretch. As Jeremy said earlier, “you can theoretically run [a] 150 Genoa up to 20 knots… but you risk causing undue stress on the cloth, running into shape issues quicker, and in-time sail failure.”

Think of it this way, if you have a 150 Genoa and you are furling it to a smaller size constantly due to the wind conditions where you sail you are not only furling away sail shape (making it less efficient) but you are also using the sail outside of its intended conditions. Having a few sails in your inventory, like a 115, 150, and a Trysail is a great option as it allows you to reduce sail area more efficiently depending on the conditions.

“Reefing sails to induce the qualities of another sail, i.e. reefing to third reef instead of a Trysail on-board, can damage specific areas of the sail, damaging the smooth vertical representation that we design in the sail. In the example above you would slightly bag out the top of the sail which means that you have a deeper top which encounters higher velocities, and could cause weather helm in the boat.”

Likewise, if you are constantly reefing your mainsail to the first or the second reef the exposed area is being stretched at a greater rate than the hidden section. This can cause the sails to become baggy and impairs the efficiency of the design of the sail.

This isn’t to say you shouldn’t reef. Well built sails will be able to handle the strain that comes from sustaining a reef and there are many ways to reinforce your sails to prolong their lifespan.

Panel Layout and Sailcloth Weight Are Important

Higher quality Dacron sailcloth has increased resistance to stretch and UV damage to prolong their shape-holding life. Meaning you can sail more aggressively without being concerned about stretching too early. Tri-Radial Dacron sails have greater resistance to stretch due to their design and the load-bearing properties of the seam layout. Laminate sails are the complete solution to stretching, but unfortunately, lack the resistance to UV that is needed for longevity. You can  learn more about sailcloth and  crosscut vs tri-radial designs in our blog.

Cloth Weight

For a long time it was thought that the heavier the sailcloth, the better the sail. We still get asked this question everyday but heavier cloth does not mean that it will last longer. Here is what our designer Jeremy had to say about it:  “Cloth weight is determined on the size of the boat, usually in LOA (ft/m). Larger boats induce more displacement and require a larger sail which will have to undertake more force to move the boat. Too light of cloth, while providing superior performance, risks tearing or warping very quickly. ”

Design is Crucial for New Sails

The design of your sail is a crucial step in preparing your it to perform well in heavier winds. Precision Sails prides ourselves on our leading design consultations to build the best sail possible for your boat. Our designers get to know you, your boat, the conditions your sailing in, long term plans, and experience level to select the best cloth, weight, and features for your sail. Here are some of the features your new sail can have:

“A foam luff allows you to furl in the sail partially and maintain lift in the front camber of the sail, this allows someone with a 150 Genoa to furl it into a 140 and sail in higher winds.” Think of a sail like an airplane wing, it has a specific curved surface. When you furl you are changing the draft of the sail, the curve, which causes it to be less efficient.

Navigator package

Designed for the blue water sailor, the Navigator Package represents the pinnacle of superior quality and custom design. This package includes:

• Double Tapes along the Leech, Luff, and Foot of the sail.
• Triple Row of Triple Zig Zag Stitching.
• Tie-in, Velcro, or Flip-Flop Batten Pockets
• Dyneema Leech and Foot Lines with Covered Cleat.
• Premium UV Treated Thread: - Tenera, Serabond, Serafil, Lifetime

You can learn more about our  Navigator Package here .

Mariner Package

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Reefing: How, Why and When to Reef

When I was starting out sailing, “reefing” was one of those subjects that scared the hell out of me. First off, if you were reefing you were likely going to be in nasty weather.

Second, if you had to reef, it meant touching all sorts of things on the boat that I might not be able to put back when I was done. It all seemed a bit too technical and it was intimidating.

That was until I moved to the coast of East Carolina and to sail meant not only to reef, but reef regularly, if not every day.

In Long Island Sound we were lucky to even have wind, let alone a need to reef, but in East Carolina, the winds regularly blew 15 to 20 directly off the North Atlantic and would top out in the 30s almost daily.

Sailing, and more to the point, teaching sailing, became a challenge to say the least and to reef was not just an option, but a necessity.

So let’s clarify our terms on what it is to “reef” a boat and then we’ll discuss why it is so intimidating.

Table of contents

What is Reefing?

To “Reef” a sail means to shorten it. And really nothing more. It is the simple act of reducing sail area, so as to reduce the surface area and thereby reducing power. A sailboat is powered by the wind and when there is too much wind it is overpowered. 

An over powered boat becomes difficult to steer, has excessive heel and can be quite scary.

With newbee sailors in my little hunter 26, an over powered boat taught the student very little.

The student would fight the helm incessantly and the boat would constantly round up or turn to wind with gusts of heavier breeze.

Thankfully the Hunter 26 is built for overweight adults so it doesn’t heel excessively, but in a heavy breeze, that little boat was no picnic.

On bigger boats like the Endeavour, a reefed main means a lower center of gravity in addition to reduced sail area.

That boat with a full keel and relatively light build danced on top the waves like a hobby horse.

On one run I made up Pamlico Sound to Ocracoke, I had my wife blowing chunks for six of the seven hours we were out there.

By lowering the center of gravity and depowering the boat, we had less force aloft pitching the boat side to side and fore and aft.

So now we know what reefing is: shortening sail to depower the boat and lower the center of gravity of the boat to make it more comfortable for the crew. 

When should we reef?

If you think you need a reef and don’t already have one in, it's too late. Reef early and Reef often. Reef your boat at the dock or on the hook well before you ever head out. You don't want to be dancing on the fore deck with lines flying and sails dropping in 25 knots of breeze with a six foot chop. As with all things regarding water safety, if you think it might be dangerous, it is.

Reefing at the dock is actually harder than reefing a boat on a mooring.

On the dock your boat could be 350 other degrees than upwind.

On a mooring, odds are your boat is head to wind at all times and that is how your boat should be when you start to reef, head to wind.

How To Reef

With your boat head to wind, slack your main sheet and raise your main, all the way up. This will allow you to see the reefing points on your sail.

Many bigger boats have at least two sets of reefing points which includes corresponding tacks and clews. For these purposes however, let's just talk about using the first reef points.

About 4 feet up from the foot or bottom edge of the sail, you will see two or three or more holes sewn into the belly of the sail. These are your reef points.

Follow them fore and aft and note that there is another hole sewn into the leading edge of the sail that corresponds with these reefing points and that is your new tack or front corn of the sail.

There will be another on the aft edge of the sail or the leach of the sail which is where you will attach your outhaul making that the new clew or back corner of the sail.

I'm always a little scared that these points will fail in a heavy breeze, but engineers with much greater intelligence than me put them there, so I tell myself I am being ridiculous. But this where the failure will take place if and when it ever happens. And we’ll talk about that more in a few paragraphs. But for now have faith that the sail manufacturer knew what they were doing by putting these reef points in your sail.

Now that you have found your reef points take a reefing line or sail tie and feed it through the holes.

Some boats have what they call a jiffy reefing system and lines are pre-fed through these holes.

Other boats have lines permanently sewn into the sail.

But for clarity take a small line and stick it through the hole. Now you can lower your main four feet so that the reef points with the lines fed through are sitting on your boom.

This is where it can get very messy and can be very difficult.

A sticky mast track or a stiff halyard or block at the mast top can make lowering your main four feet nearly impossible.

If you have a friend or crew member, this job will be much easier, but all too often a sailor finds him or herself on deck alone, so we will assume you’re by your onesies.

With your main lowered a small fraction, cleat it off and attend to those reef lines.

Gather up the sail and as neatly as possible tie those lines around the bottom of the boom using a “reef” or “ square” knot.

If you have a hook on the front of your boom you can hook your new tack to it, or otherwise fasten your tack to the front of your boom, or “gooseneck” with whatever system you have.

Take the outhaul and tie it or fasten it to the new clew at the back of the boom and make all those attachments as tight as you can.

Once you're satisfied that your attachments will hold in heavy breeze, go back to your halyard and haul away.

You will note that your sail looks a bit smaller and perhaps even a bit awkward with all that extra fabric bunched up at the bottom and a bare pole at the top.

If your sail looks like a smooth airplane wing, rest assured you have done it correctly. It's the shape we are going for and there are no style points deducted for an ugly reef.

Functionality is key.

You're ready to hit the waves now.

There are no hard and fast rules about reefing. Every boat is different and every skipper has a different comfort level.

My rule is anything over 15 I would prefer to have a reef rather than not. But your boat might love a stiff breeze and only wake up at 20 so don’t go by my rules.

But listen to that little voice inside you that says, “it’d be a good idea to reef.”

When they start talking to you, it’s time to reef.

When Things Go Bad

Now let's talk about when things go bad. Sails rip, masts fold in half and lines break, It’s what they do and when the wind picks up, the chances of bad things happening increases exponentially.

That is why some skippers don’t ever reef, because they don’t want to be out there when the seas turn gloomy.

But if you have to go and you have to reef, there is always a chance that things could break.

Think about your mast like a soda straw.

When you hold it at the top and bottom, it is quite strong. But when you apply just a little pressure to the middle, it can fold in half easily.

That's the same thing as your 65 foot aluminum mast.

When you lower your main and reef your sail, you are changing the application of force on the mast.

Smart people took this into consideration when they designed your boat, but then again Mother Nature is a fickle sort and can do things those smart people never considered.

So it is always a risk that things can break when you decide to reef.

Know Your Boat’s System

And another point: know your boat. Practice reefing on a calm clear day when you have lots of time.

Your first time reefing your boat should not be at midnight 25 miles out to sea with a freshening easterly.

Know what reef systems your boat may have. Jiffy reefing systems, when they work, can be a great asset, but if they are rigged wrong, as they almost alway are, they can be a nightmare.

I have also seen reefing systems where they feed heavy monofilament up through the sail in lieu of reefing lines. It’s not my favorite design because again, it is never rigged correctly after the first day it is installed.

By learning the system you have on the hook with lots of light and little stress, you will have the skills you need to have when the need arises.

Roller furlers are also great, if they are rigged correctly.  A simple pull of the roller furling line can shorten a jib or a main and reduce sail quite nicely.

But again, you're changing the angle of force on the stay or mast and when the wind blows harder things are easier to break.

I also have seen skippers confuse their halyards with in-mast roller furlers with cataclysmic results.

Taking the tension off the halyard allows the main to drop just enough to jam the head of the sail at the top of the mast. Then the sail will not go in or out and you are stuck with an overpowered main and no way to douse it without climbing the mast.

Not an enviable position.

Whatever reefing system you have and whether you are a fair weather sailor or a crusty old salt, reefing is a great tool to make an unsafe voyage safe and an uncomfortable crew comfortable on a windy day.

But when the wind abates and you're ready to shake out your reef, there are a few things you ought to do.

Bring your boat head to wind once again.

Untie all your reef lines and reattach your tack and clew to their normal positions.

You will likely have to lower your main a little to get these fastenings loose, but once the sail attachments have been returned to their full normal positioning, you can haul away on the main and feel the boat wake up once again, with a full throated breath of breeze.

The first time you shake out your reef, you will notice the advantage of a full sail and it will feel like you stepped out of a car after a long road trip, ready to stretch your legs and run.

Nothing beats the feeling when your boat wakes up and all the forces at play work together to make your sails sing and your hull hum.

And quite frankly, the sense of accomplishment and confidence you will have when you have navigated your vessel through your first heavy weather, successfully reefed sail and made it to the safe side of the storm to see the sun shine again, can not be overstated.

Good weather never makes a great sailor, so reef early, reef often and take the longest leg with confidence, knowing that you have the tools you need to get your boat home safely.

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Capt Chris German

Capt Chris German is a life long sailor and licensed captain who has taught thousands to sail over the last 20 years. In 2007, he founded a US Sailing-based community sailing school in Bridgeport, CT for inner city youth and families. When Hurricane Sandy forced him to abandon those efforts, he moved to North Carolina where he set out to share this love for broadcasting and sailing with a growing web-based television audience through The Charted Life Television Network.

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Yachting World

• Digital Edition

Skip Novak’s Storm Sailing Techniques Part 5: reefing

• September 22, 2014

The ability to reduce sail area quickly is fundamental for storm sailing. Skip demonstrates what he regards as the only foolproof reefing method for a true offshore cruiser

Reefed and ready for anything!

Sail handling exclusively from the cockpit without having to go forward is highly desirable on any cruising boat, especially when storm sailing. Reliable headsail furling systems have certainly achieved that goal, but reefing the mainsail still presents a dilemma.

In-mast and in-boom furling systems deserve a mention here. In-mast mainsail furlers have persisted in spite of an increased mast weight package and a mechanism buried inside the mast profile. When it works, great, although it means a mainsail undercut on the leech owing to a lack of battens and therefore a less than optimal sail shape.

When it doesn’t work – in the worse case a jam-up with a flogging sail that won’t roll up – it can become an unforgettable experience. It must be said, though, that the system is a nice idea for inshore sailing in benign conditions.

In-boom furlers appear to be purely a style item, especially in the superyacht range. A flaked mainsail on the boom, even under a neatly cut cover, is now considered untidy by some designers and owners. But these systems suffer the same problems, compounded by the necessity for an exacting control system that lowers the sail and rolls it up at the same rate, with the boom at a hyper-critical angle.

It may work a treat at the dock, but as any superyacht captain worth his salt will admit it is a nerve-racking experience offshore. Result: fear and loathing about using the mainsail at all. The adage now goes that it is cheaper to pay for fuel and motor than risk damage to the sail or the mechanism. Again, not my recommendation for a world cruising configuration.

Slab reefing

Slab reefing is the only seamanlike system, full stop, as there is not much that can go dramatically wrong. As with so many aspects of voyaging offshore, we are back to basics here: a slab reefing system with a fixed tack and clew lines. The prime advantages are that all moving parts are exposed and easily repairable – for example, mast track, cars and sliders, blocks and rigging – you have the ability to cast off the halyard and drop the mainsail in a crisis, and a better-shaped sail is achievable as you drop down through the reefs.

A side debate exists between a single-line system and a tack line with hook or shackle. There is no doubt that to be able to reef the sail without leaving the cockpit is a good thing, especially if the crew is not agile for any reason. This can only be achieved in the slab system by a single-line arrangement.

Easing the main and controlling the reefing lines

However, there are several downsides. Single-line systems, where a continuous line is threaded through both the tack and the clew to bring each reef home, requires an enormous amount of line. If you have three reefs as a minimum and four as recommended the cockpit will become a bowl of multicoloured spaghetti and pretty unmanageable.

Secondly, the friction in the system is also an issue as the line runs through so many turning points, plus there is more chance for line and sail chafe along the way. Lastly, it is difficult to set the tack and the clew in the right position and impossible to make any adjustment to either independently.

Going forward is necessary

Slab reefing can be managed from the cockpit by having the halyard, a tack line and clew lines led aft. However, to make the tack fast and create a solid connection of the tack to the gooseneck without chafe, going forward at some point in the exercise is necessary. This is not a bad idea in itself as it forces you out of the cockpit to have a look at all things forward!

A tack line to help the luff of the sail come down might be necessary depending on the friction of the track and car system. In any case, a shackle on a strop is clipped into to each successive tack ring; the deeper the reef, the longer the strop must be to allow for the stacked sail. If using a tack line it must then be clipped into the next reef tack ring aloft, which might require a few steps to safely go up the mast. Acrobatics? Yes, but then you know you are properly set for the long haul.

An extended tackline makes connecting to the bullhorn easier

Drawbacks? Other than the need to get off your butt and go forward, the only one I see is the issue of the stowage of the bunt of the mainsail on the boom, especially for long runs under reefed sail, as this can lead to chafe issues. Having some sort of platform on top of the boom (a poor man’s Park Avenue or hayrack) helps as it supports the bunt, but it is also necessary to prevent the bunt from creeping over the edge if there is slack in the sail, creating a bag that can fill with water.

Lashing the sail through reef points can work, but it can also cause chafe with the whole bundle working, and laminated sail fabric doesn’t like to be creased.

One system that keeps the bunt under tension aft and helps solve the problem is a cringle halfway between successive reefs, where the fall of the reef line passes through before it is made fast to the boom.

Spreader angle

Radically swept-back spreaders are now a feature of most modern rigs, but I would not advocate this configuration for a world cruiser. You will quickly find out why when having to reef downwind (when it is not advisable to head up and put the wind forward because of strong winds and big sea conditions). The mainsail will be plastered against a very sticky, irregular surface and will be a mission to lower away, not to mention leading to continuous chafe issues when underway downwind. I believe a cutter rig is essential for world cruising and this means having running backstays so that you won’t require radically swept-back spreaders.

Taking a slab reef

If it becomes a drama you have left it too late. Cruising should be a conservative affair. There is little difference in boat speed with, say, a single reef at the top end of its range and the second reef near the bottom of its range. So think ahead. If the wind is on the rise, reef deeply, go slow for a while and take time to check all else on board.

Even if you have done it before, talk through the manoeuvre with your crew in a step-by-step cookbook approach.

Tightening and jamming the reefing line

The beauty of this procedure, especially with a fully battened mainsail, is that the sail will feather when the sheet is eased and will not flog, so you can take you time. Also when taking more than one reef in one go, take the reefs in one by one so there is no slack in the lazy clew lines.

Step by step

Here is the step-by-step procedure, which is also shown in our video:

• Make sure your main halyard is flaked out, won’t foul and can’t get washed overboard.
• Ease the mainsail to take all load off the sail.
• Take in the slack of the boom preventer in any kind of seaway where the boom might flog – this is necessary when short-handed. If enough crew is available, one should man the sheet during the entire manoeuvre, playing the sail, taking in slack and easing when needed and being aware of clew and halyard tension.
• Pre-tension the active clew line to give some leech tension.
• Lower the halyard only as fast as you bring in the tack line (if used) and the clew line so the sail comes down in control like a window blind. Avoid letting the leech flog. If sailing solo or short-handed this might have to be done in alternate stages.
• As you bring down the sail, take in the slack on the other clew lines to avoid them fouling on the boom end.
• When the reef tack is down, attach the shackle or put the ring on the bullhorn.
• Rehoist the halyard for proper tension.
• Take in the remaining clew line, easing the mainsheet to so the boom rises up to the new clew. Check that the loose sail cloth is not drawn into the clew block or that there is line chafe on the sail.
• Trim the main sheet back on.
• Reattach the tack line to the next reef ring aloft.
• Adjust leech line if need be.
• Secure all clew lines and the halyard tail.

Taking a reef out is pretty much the reverse procedure. By the time the wind has dropped making more sail should be a very relaxed manoeuvre. In all things, be meticulous!

Part 6: preparing the deck

Making sure everything is absolutely secure in heavy weather needs exhaustive preparation including stowing the dinghy below deck and double-checking safety equipment

12-part series in association with Pantaenius

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SLAB REEFING SYSTEMS & TIPS FOR REEFING

It’s all about efficiency and effectiveness.

Sailing in big breeze can be fun, exciting, maybe stressful, and sometimes expensive when things go wrong. Shortening sail quickly and easily when the breeze comes on is key to looking after your sails and your crew. In the lead up to your next offshore race, here’s a look at a typical mainsail reefing system and some tips for looking after the mainsail when reefing.

There are many different reefing systems for the mainsail; most are pre-determined by the mast manufacturer, while some are customized by the crew to make reefing faster and safer. Here’s what to look out for when reefing to ensure you are looking after the sail, mast, boom, and fittings.

Practice first

Reefing needs to be both safe for the crew and fast, because the more time the sail spends flogging the more likely it will be damaged. The best way to achieve reefing efficiency is to practice, practice, practice, both at the dock (to get all the lines, knots, and clips positioned correctly) and on the water. Take the time with the whole crew to go through the process in moderate conditions. Check everything under load, and mark the main halyard so you know how much you’ll need to drop the sail to get the luff on the reef horn or clip. Measure out the reef ties for tying up the reefed section of the mainsail, and check the mainsail has the spreader chafe dots fitted in the correct place. It’s great for the whole crew to do this together, as the next time will be under pressure and no doubt dark and windy! You might even take photos as a reminder of what setup worked best.

Slab reefing

There are many different systems for reefing the mainsail these days, but the most common system is slab reefing. This is the way that 90% of the fleet will reef their mainsail, and when done correctly it is the simplest and most reliable system. First the luff’s reef point is secured, and then the clew’s reef point is pulled toward the outboard end of the boom until the foot of the sail is nice and flat. Below is a description of each step that will work on most boats; if you are not 100% sure of your setup, ask your sailmaker or rigger for help.

Secure the luff

The forward end of a slab reefing system consists of either reefing horns, a cunningham hook, or a luff-line on the boom. The sail will have fittings that must match the boat so they will hold the luff end secure: web loops, floppy rings, or press rings. Whatever system you have, it must be easy and fast to secure the reef point on the luff. The luff must be held both down and forward, to keep the load off the boltrope or slide; if the tack drifts too far aft, the sail can pull out of the track or tear.

This photo shows the luff end of a reefed offshore mainsail. A cunningham is fed through the mast eyelet and is pulled through the gooseneck to secure the reefed tack. Note on some boats, the boltrope will be all in line with the rig and not angling backwards, loading up the feeder. If the cunningham hook/eyelet is not held forward, the slide above the reef point will take all the load. Eventually the slide will break or the sail will tear.

Tension the outboard end

The outboard end of the first reef is generally controlled by a reef line run through either a pressed ring or a webbing loop on the leech. The reef line itself is either secured by a ‘running bowline’ or ‘buntline hitch’ tied around the boom. It’s ok to use a knot on an alloy boom. On a carbon boom, a ‘reef nappy’ is recommended to prevent point loading.

The position of both the knot and the reef nappy relative to where the clew will end up is very important. Try to end up with the line around the boom about 50mm behind the ring in the sail when it is fully tensioned, which will help keep the sail close to the boom but still allow it to be flattened out properly. Note also the second reef line, which is ready for the next reef but ttailed up so it won’t get caught on anything.

Reefing step by step

The process itself should be performed in a specific order and overseen by the mainsheet trimmer. Once the call is made to reef, here are the basic steps:

• Flake out main halyard to ensure no twists or knots will slow the drop and increase flogging time. Load halyard on winch.
• Load up the outboard reef line, and check all is clear on the leech.
• Ease vang off completely and ease outhaul off a few inches.
• Mainsheet trimmer eases the mainsheet and calls, “Drop Halyard”.
• Mast pulls down the luff and secures the sail onto the horn or cunningham clip.
• Mast ensures the cunningham is max on, calls “Made”, and signals to the pit to hoist the main halyard. Watches bolt rope feed into the rig in case of snags.
• Pit hoists the halyard until the luff is firm, then signals for the pit to grind in the outboard reef line.
• Mainsheet trimmer watches the reef line, calls how much is left to grind in, and makes sure the reef line is not crushing the sail. The sail can be pushed out to leeward or pulled over to windward of the boom, depending on how the reef line is run and what tack you are on. Remember we are bringing the boom up to the sail, not sheeting on the sail with the reef line, so make sure mainsheet and vang are eased.
• Mainsheet trimmer calls “ Made ” on the reef line and sheets on the sail.
• Mast and bow secure the reefed section of the sail, tying only around the sail and not around the boom. (If the reef line breaks, the sail will tear at the next reef tie if it’s secured around the boom.)
• Mainsheet checks leech line tension. Spilts in the leech are where the tears usually start during reefing.

While reefing, good clear communication is very important, so consider removing jacket hoods. If it’s dark, make sure the mainsheet trimmer has a torch to watch the part of the sail being winched, to ensure there is no tangle or over-tensioning.

As with anything in sailing, practice and good equipment are key to success, so get out there, pull in a reef, and check everything is in order.

Remember : to finish first, first you have to finish. So look after your sails!

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Seamanship 101: Reefing the Main

• By Bruce Bingham
• Updated: May 20, 2015

A few years back, on a gusty day with winds over 40 knots, my 34-year-old Cape Dory 28, Nikki — a cruising boat I live aboard — won the coveted Michelob Cup on Florida’s Tampa Bay, topping a fleet of more than 40 other yachts, most of which were hard-core raceboats. Not coincidentally, Nikki’s crew had trained in heavy weather and could reef the mainsail in 40 seconds or less, and shake it out even quicker.

Nobody in Tampa Bay racing circles had ever seen or competed against Nikki . She was the oldest and smallest boat to race that day. Though we were later accused of cheating by a disgruntled opponent (and quickly exonerated), Nikki continued her winning ways and was later named Southwest Florida’s Cruising Boat of the Year by the West Florida PHRF Racing Association. Proficient and rapid reefing remained a key to our success. In fact, unlike many of our competitors, we always hoped for strong winds on race days.

Of course, there are lots of reasons to reef that are more important than winning races. Well-executed, timely reefing has a positive impact on your boat’s performance and safety in heavy weather. A well-balanced sail plan also keeps your crew and passengers safer and able to move about more comfortably, increasing their level of confidence in your sailing abilities and attention to their welfare. There’s nothing that will ruin a day on the water faster than a partner or friend screaming, “We’re tipping over!”

Here are a few more ways reefing promotes better sailing:

• Keeps the boat “on its feet” and more efficient in terms of hydrodynamics and aerodynamics.
• Increases speed potential in rough conditions.
• Reduces adverse weather helm (unnecessary drag).
• Dramatically reduces leeway when pointing and close-reaching.
• Reduces wear and tear on sails and equipment.
• Makes sails easier to trim and handle.

Setup and Sequences

It’s important that all the hardware and running rigging for reefing maneuvers are close at hand. For a classic plastic cruiser like Nikki , the reefing-control gear — the bitter ends of the reefing tack and clew lines and their respective cleats or clutches — should be situated on the same side of the mast and/or boom as the main halyard winch (usually on the starboard side). On more contemporary cruising boats, this gear is often led aft to the coachroof, flanking the companionway. The main topping lift should also be readily close by. This way, the crew tucking in the reef needn’t move from one side of the boat to the other to complete the task. Topping lifts and clew lines should never terminate at or near the end of the boom; these would potentially require the crew to hang ­dangerously over the lifelines to access them.

Because they’re quickly made, saving valuable time, I prefer cam or clam cleats for all reefing control lines. On the boom, reefing clew lines are best installed internally to keep the spar uncluttered. Alternatively, these clew lines can be routed through three or four small strapeyes that are machine-screwed to the boom.

Many booms are equipped with reefing tack hooks integral with the gooseneck; others have dedicated tack lines. Nikki has both, and I’ve found that the tack line is much faster to use, saving precious seconds.

Whether you sail a sloop, cutter, yawl or ketch, the traditional jiffy- or slab-reefing sequence is virtually universal. Practice it with your crew until reefing becomes a streamlined and habitual process. Eliminate confusion, yelling and mistakes. The job should be smooth and rapid. The following is the correct sequence for all boats that do not employ a single-line system (more on those in a moment). On Nikki I’ve actually printed out and laminated two copies of these instructions, and taped one to the mast and the other in the cockpit.

Here’s the drill:

• Ease the boom vang and then the mainsheet so both are slack.
• Take up the topping lift so the boom is stabilized.
• Lower the main halyard until the desired reefing tack cringle is in position.
• Tighten and make fast the reefing tack line, or put the tack cringle onto the gooseneck hook, ring or shackle.
• Hoist the main halyard until the luff is firm and wrinkle-free.
• Take in the reefing clew line, or luff cringle, via a boom winch or tackle as much as possible, and make fast.
• Ease the main topping lift.
• Trim the mainsheet.
• Tighten the boom vang.

Personally, I find this slab-reefing system, with separate controls for the leech and luff of the sail, to be preferable to single-line reefing systems. First, due to the friction and loads caused by a single-line system running through multiple sheaves and leads before terminating in the cockpit, those sheaves are not timesavers. Also, because the reefing line is so long, it may develop kinks in the line that delay the maneuver until they’re straightened out. Finally, single-line reefs eliminate the ability to adjust sail draft and leech tension separately.

So now that your sail is reefed, what do you do with the lowered panels of the sail that are no longer set? On Nikki , I use dedicated buntlines: small-diameter lengths of line that pass through a horizontal series of cringles in the sail, between the reefed tack and the reefed clew, and tied with reef knots. Their only purpose is to store the “bunt” — that excess sailcloth that hangs down from the finished reef — to increase visibility from the helm and reduce flopping. For mainsails without buntlines, the sail can be gathered and secured with sail ties rove through the appropriate reef points, or through cringles in the sail, which serve the same purpose. Either way, buntlines or sail ties should never be pulled tight before tying, because they will strain and eventually tear the sail at the cringles. Your reefed sail should be left loose-footed, although the buntlines or ties can be knotted under the boom or only around the bunt itself, which I prefer. When I race Nikki, I leave the bunt untied because it doesn’t get in the way and it reduces the time to take another reef in or shake it out.

Over the years, I’ve heard some sailors say they don’t know how or when to reef, justifying this confession by stating that they don’t sail when it’s too breezy, or they simply bear away as the wind stiffens. This is shortsighted and even dangerous, for the day will come when you’re caught in a rising squall or changing weather, and there are few choices or tactics other than reducing sail.

So practice with your family and ­regular crewmembers, and you’ll soon discover how easy reefing really is. Keep a stopwatch handy and try to beat your best time. This skill will broaden your sailing horizons and increase your self-reliance dramatically as you discover what you and your boat are capable of when conditions deteriorate.

Learning to reef quickly will also teach you what needs to be corrected or modified on your boat to make reefing more effective and convenient. Boat manufacturers are not necessarily heavy-weather sailors and often take shortcuts. What they install is not always ideal in terms of hardware or deck layouts.

In my experience, sailmakers, mast and boom assemblers, and yacht designers aren’t always on the same page either, and the result can be reefing systems that just don’t work.

So let’s delve a bit deeper and focus on some of the finer points of the design and installation of reefing hardware.

End-Boom Dilemmas

If you have a boom with an internal reefing system — with sheaves for the clew(s) installed at the outboard end of the boom — you’ve probably ascertained that something wasn’t right when you tried to set a reef. Most likely, your boom drooped to an odd angle and may even have ended up on top of your bimini or dodger. If your boom has external clew reef lines with cheek blocks and dead-end padeyes installed at the end of the boom, the same thing will happen.

To make matters worse, if the clew reef lines are led to cleats that are also near the end of the boom, you can’t reach them unless you are either sheeted in and sailing to weather or luffing head to wind.

Clew reefing lines emanating from the end of the boom are not only inefficient; they can be hazardous for anyone who has to make them up while hanging over a lifeline or under a thrashing boom.

In other words, there’s really no excuse for this system on a well-found cruising boat.

The angle of that clew line, when reefed, is a related issue. When a mainsail is reefed, it essentially becomes a loose-footed sail (even if the actual foot of the sail is slotted into the boom). A reefed sail’s draft and twist control is not unlike a headsail’s; in other words, the angle of the jib or genoa sheet and the angle of the clew reefing lines determine the sail’s twist, while the tension on these respective lines controls the draft. So it is vital that the position of the clew reefing hardware is correct, and this is easily determined.

With your mainsail lowered to its reefed position and the new tack placed into its reef hook (or, similarly, with the tack reefing line taut and made fast), pull on the clew reefing lines and manually change their angle. When you pull downward, hard, the sail’s leech tightens and its twist is reduced, while the foot of the sail loosens and develops more draft. Likewise, when you yank the clew reef line upward, the foot of the sail becomes tighter and flatter, while the leech loosens and develops more twist.

Ideally, you want to strike a balance so the leech and foot tensions are about the same. The angle for this clew reef line might not be perfect for all points of sail, but you will need to reef most often when sailing to weather, so I recommend adjusting the clew hardware accordingly.

Many older boats have the cheek block for the reefing clew on a track so small adjustments can be made to accommodate changing wind velocities and points of sail. If you want to split hairs, a block on a track is the way to go. Clew reefing hardware at the end of the boom will never result in a reefed sail that is well trimmed.

Tacks and Leeches

When reefing a mainsail, the first reef-point connection to make is the tack cringle. But this can be difficult if the sailmaker has not made adequate accommodation for the stacked-up luff on the mast that occurs when lowering the sail.

If you are using reefing tack hooks, a major problem can occur if there is a slug-entry closure in the mast that prevents the luff from dropping fully to the gooseneck. A ring pendant may be added to the reefing tack cringle so the tack hook can be reached. Cringles for second or third reefs will also require pendant extensions.

If your mainsail is set up with reefing tack lines, rather than gooseneck hooks, the problem of sail stacking is greatly reduced. But the height of the reefed tack position still causes distortion with the sail. My recommendation is to close the slug entry with a semipermanent cover that will allow the sail stack to be much lower. If using tack reef hooks, you’ll still use extension pendants, but that stack will be much shorter.

Along the trailing edge of the main, chances are that your sail has a small-diameter leech line that begins at the head of the sail and extends all the way to the foot. The leech line exits the leech hem through small cringles just above the boom and at the respective patches for each reefing clew. A small cleat will be situated at each reef point. Once a reef is tied in, you should apply just enough tension on the leech line to stop any flapping or movement of the sail’s leech, and then make it fast. When shaking out a reef and before you fully hoist the main, always remember to slack those leech lines to prevent a series of distinct hooks in the sail. Not only do they look bad, they’re also inefficient.

Boatbuilder, naval architect, author, illustrator, marine surveyor and long-time CW *contributor Bruce Bingham is also the proprietor of Bruce Does Boatwork, a yacht repair and refit business in St. Petersburg, Florida. *

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• Single Line Reefing

Is Single Line Reefing Right for Your Sailboat?

The single line reefing system is probably the easiest way to pull a reef in a mainsail and, providing the mainsail halyard and topping lift are led back to the cockpit, there's no need to clamber up to the mast to shorten sail.

But if the halyard and the topping lift are operated from the mast, then this is where the reefing pennant should terminate too.

On some boats the halyard is operated from the mast and the topping lift from the cockpit - which is just plain daft - but if this is the case it's best to keep the halyard and the reefing line in the same location, as you can deal with the topping lift before you leave the cockpit and when you return to it.

Clearly it makes a lot more sense to have everything all in the same place - either at the mast or in the cockpit - so you can deal with it on your own if you have to.

Pulling In a Slab with a Single Line Reefing System

It doesn't get much simpler than the external system shown here:~

• Ease the kicking strap, or vang as it's also known, then;
• Ease the mainsheet;
• Head up towards the wind;
• Take up on the topping lift to support the end of the boom;
• Release the halyard and drop the main by enough to pull in the reef;
• Pull in the reef and secure the reefing line;
• Tension halyard and secure;
• Ease the topping lift;
• Adjust course, trim sails - and it's job done!

Internal Systems

Some spar manufacturers incorporate single line systems  inside  the boom, which, although looking neater is:

• more expensive, and
• is difficult to repair when something breaks, and
• uses a two-part tackle which makes pulling a reef in easier, but
• the mechanical advantage works against you when letting a reef out.

There's only enough room inside the boom for the first two reef tackles, so the third reef - if there is one - has to be done with a  standard slab reefing arrangement .

This means that in the very worst conditions you'll have to go to the mast anyway!

I know some offshore sailors that use this system have just two deep slabs in the mainsail, and rely on the trysail when things get really unpleasant.

The trysail should have its own separate track and be kept bagged but ready for hoisting at the foot of the mast, as shown here. 

Any Questions?

What is the difference between single-line reefing and slab reefing?

The difference between single line reefing and slab reefing is that single-line reefing uses one line to pull down both the outboard and inboard reef cringles of the mainsail, while slab reefing uses two separate lines for each cringle.

Single-line reefing simplifies the reefing process and reduces the number of lines and hardware needed, but it also introduces more friction and tension in the system, which can make it harder to pull in or release the reefing line.

Slab reefing is more traditional and classic, and it allows for more precise adjustment of the luff and leech tension, but it also requires more steps and more lines to handle.

How do I convert the slab reefing system on my sailboat to a single-line mainsail reefing system?

To convert your yacht from slab to single line reefing, you will need to modify your existing reefing system by adding some blocks, sheaves and lines that will allow you to pull down both the outboard and inboard reef cringles with one line. The exact configuration may vary depending on your boom and mast layout, but the general steps are:

• Attach a block or sheave at the end of the boom that can redirect the reefing line from the outboard cringle to the inboard end of the boom;
• Attach another block or sheave at the inboard end of the boom that can redirect the reefing line from the boom to the inboard cringle;
• Attach a block or sheave at the base of the mast that can redirect the reefing line from the inboard cringle to the cockpit;
• Run a low-stretch rope from the cockpit cleat or winch, through the mast base block, through the inboard cringle, through the boom end block, through the outboard cringle, and back to the cockpit cleat or winch. This will be your single-line reefing line;
• Remove or disable any existing lines or hardware that were used for slab reefing, such as reefing pennants or hooks.

Some tips and considerations for converting to single-line reefing are:

• Make sure all blocks, sheaves and lines are sized appropriately for your sail area and load;
• Make sure all blocks, sheaves and lines are aligned properly and run smoothly without any twists or jams;
• Make sure all blocks, sheaves and lines are secured firmly to the boom, mast and deck using rivets, screws, washers or other suitable fasteners;
• Make sure you have enough slack in your halyard and topping lift to lower your sail to the desired reef point;
• Make sure you mark your halyard and reefing line with tape or markers to indicate where to stop for each reef point.

What are the Pros and Cons of single-line reefing?

Some of the advantages are:

• It reduces the number of lines and hardware needed for reefing;
• It eliminates the need to go to the mast or boom to secure the reef cringles;
• It simplifies the reefing process and reduces the risk of errors or jams;
• It allows for quick and easy adjustment of sail shape and balance.

Some of the disadvantages are:

• It produces more friction and tension than conventional reefing systems, which can make it harder to pull in or release the reefing line;
• It may not provide enough tension on the luff or leech of the sail, which can cause sagging or flapping;
• It may not work well with full-battened mainsails, which can interfere with the passage of the reefing line through the cringles.

How do I shake out a reef using a single-line reefing system?

To shake out a reef using a single-line reefing system, you need to:

• Ease off or release any vang, outhaul or mainsheet tension that may prevent you from lowering or raising your mainsail;
• Ease off or release the reefing line until both the outboard and inboard cringles are free from the boom. Cleat off or lock the reefing line;
• Raise the mainsail halyard until you reach a pre-marked point that corresponds to the original sail area or the next lower reef point;
• Re-tension the reefing line to remove any slack or wrinkles from the leech of the sail. Cleat off or lock the reefing line;
• Adjust the vang, outhaul and mainsheet as needed to trim and shape your full or partially reefed sail.

The above answers were drafted by sailboat-cruising.com using GPT-4 (OpenAI’s large-scale language-generation model) as a research assistant to develop source material; to the best of our knowledge,  we believe them to be accurate.

Read more about Reefing and Sail Handling...

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The Gala Opening Ceremony of the 5th Moscow Boat Show held on March 20

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Written by Zuzana Bednarova

The Gala Opening Ceremony of the 5th International exhibition Moscow Boat Show was held on March 20 in the lobby of the first pavilion Crocus Expo IEC. The trade fair has demonstrated once again to be the largest project in Russia exhibiting the best products in the yachting segment.

5th Moscow Boat Show

The Moscow Boat Show is the own Crocus Expo IEC project and is supported by Aston Martin Moscow, Burevestnik Group logistics department and the Yachting specialized magazine.

The exposition space increased up to 30 000 sq m and was accommodated in all 4 exhibition halls of the fairgrounds! 280 Russian (Arkhangelsk, Vyborg, Kazan, Kaluga, Republic of Karelia, Moscow and Moscow region, Nizhny Novgorod, Novorossiysk, Novosibirsk, Rostov-on-Don, Samara, St. Petersburg, Sverdlovsk region, Sochi, Chelyabinsk, Tyumen and Yaroslavl region) and foreign ( Denmark , Germany , Holland , Greece , Spain , Italy , Cyprus , China , Latvia , Poland , USA , Turkey , Ukraine, Finland , France , Montenegro and Croatia ) companies participated in the show.

Moscow Boat Show 2012

Arcady Zlotnikov, First Deputy Director Crocus Expo IEC, was traditionally the first to take the floor at the official opening ceremony. He greeted warmly exhibitors, guests and visitors of Moscow Boat Show. Nikolay Krjuchek, Deputy Chief of the State Inspection on Small size Vessels (GIMS) of the Ministry for Emergency Situations of Russia, Georguiy Shaiduko,Acting President of the Russian Yachting Federation (VFPS), Olympic champion in Atlanta, and Ekaterina Grishechkina, Director of exhibition Moscow Boat Show also spoke at the ceremony.

The high-ranking guests noted dynamic development of the branch which well reasons the intensive growth of the exposition and appearance of rather unique articles.

The official opening ceremony of the Moscow Boat Show

The visitors for the first time had an opportunity to purchase 19-meter boats, private submarines, Jetlev-Flyers from MS Watersports and also rare yachts and boats.

The questions-and-answers session was organized for the journalists after the ceremony. Mass media representatives could communicate directly with organizers of the exhibition and top officials of the Russian yachting.

Please contact CharterWorld - the luxury yacht charter specialist - for more on superyacht news item "The Gala Opening Ceremony of the 5th Moscow Boat Show held on March 20".

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