sailboat with anchor

12 Best Sailboat Anchors for Any Sailor

Having the ability to anchor out inside a nice peaceful bay or right outside of a marina avoiding all the hubbub can be an amazing feeling.

It’s an even better feeling knowing that your sailboat is securely fastened using the best sailboat anchor so that you don’t start floating away when the tide or wind starts to shift.

There are a lot of amazing anchors out there that are potentially a great fit for you and your sailboat as a primary anchor.

Having a clear understanding of what makes a good, high-quality sailboat anchor from a trusted brand means you’ll be able to make a more educated choice when deciding which anchor is best for you and your sailboat.

The Best Sailboat Anchors

Depending on your style of sailing and the whereabouts you like to explore, you may need one sailboat anchor over another.

Based on my experience, there are a lot of great options out there to choose from, which is why I put together the following list of the best sailboat anchors.

1. Rocna Vulcan Galvanized Anchor

One of the best sailboat anchors out there today based on being the best-selling anchor for yachts and workboats goes to the Rocna Vulcan Galvanized Anchor .

As one of the pioneering brands for sailboat anchors, the Rocna Vulcan was able to transform from the original Rocna anchor to the most dependable, best anchor out there today.

The Rocna Vulcan is actually a modified version of the original Rocna anchor, which was one of the most groundbreaking anchors to have been engineered and set the stage for the Rocna Vulcan.

The original Rocna anchor was designed in New Zealand back in 2004 and took the industry by storm. By taking the best features from more traditional anchor types, like the Bugel anchor and Spade anchor, it was able to set itself apart.

The Rocna Vulcan has a lot of fantastic features to it apart from being a very strong and powerful anchor. For one, it has the ability to dig into almost any type of seabed, which comes in handy when sailing in diverse locations.

It’s also relatively lightweight and easy to stow due to it not having a roll bar like its older brother, the original Rocna.

Another great feature is that it has no moving parts, so no one’s fingers have the chance of getting pinched.

When it comes to the construction material of the anchor, the Rocna Vulcan is a galvanized steel boat anchor, which means it’s very strong, long-lasting, and relatively inexpensive.

The design of this sailboat anchor allows for it to self-right itself when landing on the seabed and when being pushed around by currents and tides. It also comes with a lifetime warranty, so it’s guaranteed to last the lifetime of your sailboat.

All in all, the Rocna Vulcan is a great choice for any sailboat looking to anchor out.

Regardless of where you are, it’s highly likely you’ll be able to use your Rocna Vulcan to anchor and feel good that you have a popular, well-designed anchor manufactured by a trusted brand.

If you’re serious about getting one of the best boat anchors, definitely check it out.

2. Manson Galvanized Supreme Anchor

As one of the most famous boat anchors that were released when the original Rocna anchor came out is the Manson Galvanized Supreme Anchor .

As a matter of fact, this anchor came out in 2003 and is well known to this day as being extremely effective due to having a very high holding power, an effective roll bar, and an ability to settle to the seabed quickly.

You certainly cannot go wrong with a Manson Supreme anchor if you decide to get one. They have very high holding power, are able to dig into almost any seabed, have no moving parts, and are able to touch the seabed quickly.

While their major advantages are definitely the holding power and fast settling, this comes at the price of being rather heavy which can make stowing this anchor difficult at times.

3. Lewmar Galvanized Delta Anchor

Even though there are a number of modern anchor types that have taken the industry by storm, some of the more traditional designs still hold their weight to this day.

That’s why the Lewmar Galvanized Delta Anchor  is still on the anchor scene, especially since it’s been a hallmark anchor for a very long time.

There are a number of good reasons to go with this anchor by Lewmar especially the fact that it has a strong holding power in softer seabeds (like mud and sand).

It’s also relatively lighter than other sailboat anchors allowing for easy stowing and transportation. Another great quality is that it’s all one piece, so there’s no potential issue of pinched fingers.

The only downsides include that it sometimes requires a tripping anchor line to release it from the seabed and that it’s not ideal for hard seabeds or seabeds covered in kelp.

4. Spade Anchor S120 Galvanized Steel

Another well-known, traditional design for anchors is the Spade Anchor S120 Galvanized Steel .

This type of anchor has been around for quite some time and has proven itself as a worthy contender to even the newer, more modern anchor types.

It certainly set the stage for a lot of anchor designs today and it continues to shine even today.

The Spade anchor is a very popular style of anchor that was designed in France back in 1996.

It was based on the delta style anchor design in a way to achieve a similar grip power to the seabed but by providing an even large surface area contact to the seabed.

This sailboat anchor is lightweight and can dig into soft seabeds quite well making it a great fisherman anchor for most fishing boats.

One of the downsides is that it sometimes Spade anchors needs the assistance of a tripping line to remove it from the seabed.

5. Lewmar CQR Anchor

Of all the more traditional anchors out there today, one of the most famous that really shook the anchor industry is the Lewmar CQR Anchor .

Before the more modern sailboat anchors, the CQR anchor (or the plow style anchor generally) was the go-to anchor for many yachts and workboats.

If you’re looking for a classic, time-tested anchor, the CQR might be the anchor for you.

The CQR anchor was designed in the UK way back in 1933 and has been one of the most well-known anchors out there. It was known to be so secure (and it still is), that it was named CQR because it sounded like “secure”.

This anchor’s relatively lightweight, digs into the seabed quite well, and is rather versatile in terms of the texture of the seabed it can grip.

However, it does have some downsides including it being oddly shaped so stowing is more difficult, it has moving parts, and it sometimes requires a tripping anchor line to remove it from the seabed.

6. Lewmar Claw Anchor

Another great anchor that’s been around for a while is the Lewmar Claw Anchor , which has been known as either the Bruce or Claw anchor in the past.

The strong reputation of Claw anchors has been well-known in the anchor industry for a long time and is further proven due to being manufactured by the trusted brand Lewmar.

The Lewmar Claw anchor is a fantastic anchor to own due to it being relatively lightweight, strong, and inexpensive.

As a matter of fact, it’s one of the best sailboat anchors anyone can buy since it has a lot of positive advantages like it has no moving parts and it’s easy to remove from the seabed.

The only downsides include it having an odd shape, making it a bit more difficult to stow, and not being the best when penetrating seaweed or grass-like seabeds.

7. Danforth S-600 Standard Anchor

There’s no doubt that even some of the traditional anchors still have a place in the best anchor category and that goes double for the Danforth S-600 Standard Anchor .

Similar to the CQR anchor, this anchor has been around for quite some time and was developed in the US back in the 1940s.

As a matter of fact, they were originally manufactured to be equipped with certain landing aircraft during WW2.

The Danforth anchor is an industry standard and has been a hallmark for many decades. They’ve been used as anchors for many types of vessels and are especially good for anchoring out in loose seabeds like sand or mud.

It’s also relatively lightweight and can be stowed easily since it’s pretty flat. Unfortunately, it has some moving parts to it, sometimes requires a tripping line to get it out of the seabed, and is certainly not ideal for more rocky seabeds.

8. Norestar Stainless Steel Danforth-Style Anchor

While the original Danforth anchor is a great choice for your next anchor, a step up in terms of quality is the Norestar Stainless Steel Danforth-Style Anchor .

While you’ll certainly spend a bit more money for this Danforth-style anchor, the design improvements ensure a safer anchoring and a longer-lasting product.

This Danforth-style anchor by Norestar provides all of the advantages of owning a traditional Danforth with some extras.

First, it has no movable parts so there’s no chance of pinching fingers while operating the anchor.

Second, it allows for anchoring off in seabeds that are rockier than the original Danforth can handle. It even comes in stainless steel, which means this anchor will last a very long time.

It does, however, still have the downside of at times needing a tripping line to release it from the seabed.

9. Norestar Stainless Steel Bruce Anchor

The Bruce anchor (also known as the Claw anchor) is a popular style of anchor that’s been used for a very long time.

There’s no question the Norestar Stainless Steel Bruce Anchor is a step up in the design of this anchor style, similar to how they improved the Danforth.

This Bruce/Claw anchor is a great choice for your sailboat’s next anchor since it has a good holding power for almost any seabed texture.

It’s also quite lightweight, has no moving parts, and it’s very easy to break it from the seabed.

Even better, it’s made out of stainless steel, so it’s built to last. Honestly, there aren’t too many downsides to this anchor apart from it being relatively expensive.

10. Norestar Stainless Steel Delta Anchor

The Norestar brand is amazing at taking the more traditional style of anchors and improving its designs to make them more attractive.

Well, they’ve done that once again with the Norestar Stainless Steel Delta Anchor .

The Delta anchor was already an improvement to the CQR anchor, but Norestar decided to take it to the next level.

The Delta anchor by Norestar is one of the highest quality stainless steel, delta-style anchors you could put on your sailboat.

Apart from it being stainless steel like the rest of Norestar’s anchors, it’s also lightweight, has no moving parts, and has a powerful holding power in softer seabeds.

However, it might not be the best sailboat anchor on seabeds with hard sand and it might require a tripping line to set it free from the seabed.

11. Mantus Galvanized Anchor

Some of the best sailboat anchors are originally derived from the more traditional sailboat anchors (in particular those with a roll bar), which is definitely the case for the Mantus Galvanized Anchor .

As one of the most well-known anchor types out there, this anchor manufactured by Mantus Marine stands out as a top contender for the best sailboat anchor.

This anchor by Mantus is produced with galvanized steel which makes it quite strong, inexpensive, and dependable.

With its uniquely designed roll bar, this sailboat anchor is able to properly land on the seabed when making its descent resulting in getting a better grip of wherever it ends up.

This anchor is specifically designed to break through dense grassy bottoms, so definitely a consideration when buying your next sailboat anchor.

12. Fortress Anchor

Sometimes it’s important to break free from the most well-known anchor brands and see what else is out there.

After stepping outside and digging into other anchor styles, I fell upon the Fortress Anchor , which is an aluminum fluke anchor that has a lot of common characteristics found in the traditional Danforth-style sailboat anchor.

The Fortress anchor has a very similar design to the Danforth but differs in the sense that it’s even more lightweight since it’s made out of aluminum magnesium alloy.

Some of the clear advantages that make this a candidate for the best sailboat anchor are that it settles quickly to the bottom of the seabed, it can be disassembled for easy storage, and it’s been tested to have double the holding power compared to its competition.

Downsides include movable parts, sometimes requiring a tripping line to remove it from the seabed, and not being ideal for rocky seabeds.

What to Consider Before Buying a Sailboat Anchor

We went over a good amount of high-quality sailboat anchors just now, so you should have a good idea of what anchor you might consider purchasing for your sailboat.

However, there are a few considerations to take into account before making that purchase, which is what we’ll cover now.

Construction Materials

You’ll find a number of different construction materials for anchors, like aluminum and steel, but by far the most common materials you’ll find is a metal anchor made of steel or aluminum alloy.

Galvanized Steel

Anchors made out of galvanized steel are often found to be less expensive and shiny compared to other types of anchor materials.

The great part is that they’re very strong and can last a very long time. Unfortunately, they’re prone to corrosion so it’s not uncommon to have to get them re-galvanized.

Stainless Steel

Anchors made out of stainless steel are very strong and aesthetically pleasing in terms of their appearance since it’s rather shiny.

You can’t go wrong with getting a stainless steel anchor, but you’ll definitely be forking over more money to get one.

Aluminum Alloy

Anchors made out of aluminum alloy are very lightweight compared to steel but often come at a much higher cost when going through the checkout line. However, when set correctly on the seabed, they’re known to have very high holding power.

Lakes vs. Coastal Waterways

Depending on where you’re sailing, you’ll need a certain level of strength to keep your sailboat from moving around while anchored.

Sailing in coastal waterways definitely requires a strong anchor than when sailing around lakes, so it’s generally advised to stick with the stronger anchors just in case.

If you know your sailboat will never leave the lake scene, go with a weaker (and thus cheaper) anchor.

Anchor Weight to Boat Length

You might’ve been wondering how strong your anchor should be based on the size of your sailboat.

Well, there’s no hard and fast rule to the exact strength (or weight) your anchor should have, but it’s definitely possible to determine a minimum weight to cover some worst-case scenarios when using your anchor.

A simple way to determine the minimum anchor weight of your sailboat is to subtract 5-10 lbs from every foot of your sailboat’s length overall (LOA). For example, if your sailboat is 40 feet long, then a 35 lb boat anchor would be a good weight.

This is a good rule of thumb when choosing an anchor weight for your sailboat, but should only be considered as an estimate and for minimum weight.

If the anchor you plan to purchase has a chart helping you decide on the proper weight to get, you should definitely follow that.

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Anchoring Made Easy: A Newbie’s Guide to Securing Your Sailboat

What is anchoring?

Anchoring is a fundamental aspect of boating that involves securing your sailboat in a specific location using an anchor and chain.

When you anchor your sailboat, you are essentially creating a stable and secure position for your boat, regardless of the wind or current.

Table of Contents

Can you anchor a sailboat anywhere?

No, you can’t anchor just anywhere.

• First and foremost, you need to be aware of any regulations or restrictions in the area you plan to anchor.

Some harbors, marinas, or waterways have specific rules regarding anchoring, and it’s important to respect these guidelines.

• In addition, you’ll need to consider the bottom conditions.

Anchoring in rocky or weedy areas can make it difficult for your anchor to dig in and secure your sailboat . Ideally, you’ll want to find a sandy or muddy seabed, as these provide better holding power for anchors .

• Furthermore, you should avoid anchoring in areas with heavy boat traffic.

Not only can this increase the chances of collisions, but it can also make it difficult for you to safely drop and retrieve your anchor.

Choosing the Right Anchor and Chain Size

The size and weight of your anchor will determine its ability to hold your boat securely in place, while the chain provides additional weight and strength to keep the anchor in position.

So, how do you choose the right anchor and chain size for your sailboat?

• First, consider the size and weight of your sailboat .

Larger boats require larger anchors and chains to provide adequate holding power.

As a general rule of thumb, it’s recommended to use an anchor that weighs 1 pound for every 2 feet of boat length.

So, if you have a 30-foot sailboat, a 15-pound anchor would be appropriate.

• Next, think about the type of bottom you’ll be anchoring in.

Different anchor designs work better in different types of seabeds, such as sand, mud, or rocks.

For sandy bottoms, a fluke or plow-style anchor is often recommended, while a grapnel or claw anchor is better suited for rocky bottoms.

Picking the Right Spot to Anchor

Choosing the right spot to anchor your sailboat is essential for a safe and enjoyable experience on the water. Whether you’re planning a short stop or an overnight stay, finding the perfect location can make all the difference.

So, how do you pick the right spot?

• First, consider the depth of the water.

You’ll want to find a spot with enough depth to accommodate the draft of your sailboat, plus some additional clearance to account for tides or changes in water levels.

Consult nautical charts or use a depth sounder to determine the water depth in the area you plan to anchor.

• Next, assess the bottom conditions.

Look for a sandy or muddy seabed, as these provide better holding power for anchors.

Avoid areas with rocky or weedy bottoms, as they can make it difficult for your anchor to dig in and secure your sailboat.

• Consider the surrounding environment as well.

Look for sheltered areas or natural features such as coves or bays that can protect from strong winds or currents . These areas will offer a more comfortable and secure anchorage for your sailboat.

• How Many Anchors Should You Have For Your Boat?
• The Power of Anchors: Why You Should Use Them to Keep Your Boat Safe
• Mooring Made Easy: A Step-by-Step Guide to Picking Up a Mooring for Your Boat
• How To Dock Your Boat Like A Pro: Stern-In, Bow-In, And Alongside

Preparing Your Sailboat for Anchoring

When preparing your sailboat for anchoring, there are several important things you need to do to ensure a smooth and successful docking experience.

Here are four essential tasks to complete before dropping your anchor :

1. Check your equipment: Before setting sail, make sure you have all the necessary anchoring equipment on board.

This includes an anchor, chain, and any additional gear such as a buoy or buoy line. Inspect your equipment to ensure it is in good condition and free of any damage or wear.

2. Secure loose items: Stow away any loose items on your sailboat that could become a hazard during the anchoring process.

This includes things like ropes , fenders, or loose equipment. Secure these items in designated storage areas or tie them down to prevent them from shifting or falling during anchoring.

3. Clear the deck: Remove any obstructions from your deck that could interfere with the anchoring process.

This includes items like cushions, coolers, or other personal belongings.

Clearing the deck will provide you with a clean and clutter-free area to work in when dropping anchor .

4. Prepare your crew: Brief your crew on their roles and responsibilities during the anchoring process.

Make sure everyone knows where to be and what to do when it’s time to anchor.

Assign specific tasks to each crew member, such as handling the anchor or controlling the helm, to ensure a coordinated and efficient docking experience.

The Step-by-Step Guide to Anchoring Your Sailboat

Follow these instructions, and you’ll be able to safely and effectively anchor your boat in no time.

1. Choose your anchor location

Before you start the process, select a suitable location to drop your anchor . Consider factors such as water depth, bottom conditions, and nearby hazards.

Once you’ve chosen the spot, approach it slowly and stop the boat when you’re in the desired location.

2. Prepare your anchor and chain

Make sure your anchor is ready for deployment. Remove any tangles or knots in the chain and ensure it’s securely attached to the anchor.

Double-check that the anchor is properly stored and accessible for deployment.

3. Determine the amount of anchor chain

Decide how much anchor chain you need to deploy based on the depth of the water.

A general rule of thumb is to use a ratio of 5:1 or 7:1 for the length of the anchor chain to the depth of the water. For example, if the water is 10 feet deep, deploy 50 to 70 feet of chain.

4. Drop the anchor

Carefully lower the anchor over the bow of your boat while paying out the chain.

Use a controlled speed and avoid letting the chain drop too quickly, as this could damage your boat or the anchor.

Make sure the anchor hits the bottom before releasing the chain.

5. Set the anchor

Once the anchor is on the bottom, put the boat in reverse at idle speed to ensure the anchor is firmly embedded.

Give it some time to settle and check that the boat is staying in position. Use a landmark on shore or your GPS to monitor any drifting.

6. Secure the anchor

Once you’re confident that the anchor is set, cleat off the chain or secure it to a bow cleat to prevent any accidental movement or slippage.

Double-check that the anchor is holding by slowly reversing the boat to put some pressure on the anchor.

• Congratulations! You’ve successfully anchored your sailboat. Remember to monitor your position and the anchor’s holding power throughout your stay. If you need to reposition or adjust the anchor, follow the same steps in reverse order.

How long can you be at anchor for on a sailboat?

In general, you can stay anchored for a few hours or overnight, but it’s important to check local regulations to ensure compliance.

Some areas have time limits for anchoring or require permits for longer stays.

Additionally, you’ll need to consider the weather forecast. If there are strong winds or rough seas expected, it may not be safe to remain anchored for an extended period.

What side of the vessel you should never anchor?

There is actually one side you should avoid at all costs: the bow , or the front of the boat.

Anchoring on the bow can lead to several problems and safety hazards.

Firstly, it can interfere with the boat’s steering and maneuverability, making it difficult to control the vessel in tight spaces or when approaching docks .

Secondly, anchoring on the bow can cause the boat to swing in unpredictable directions, especially when wind or currents change.

This can increase the risk of collision with other boats, docks, or hazards in the water.

To avoid these issues, always anchor your sailboat off the stern, or the back of the boat. This allows for better control and maneuverability, as well as a more stable anchoring experience.

Additionally, anchoring off the stern keeps the bow free for easy boarding and disembarking, making your sailing experience more convenient and enjoyable.

What happens when a sailboat drag anchor?

When a sailboat drags an anchor, it means that the anchor is no longer holding the boat in place.

This can occur for several reasons, such as changing wind or current conditions, a poorly set anchor, or inadequate anchor line length.

As the boat starts to drift, it can potentially collide with other boats, docks, or even run aground.

In this situation, it’s important to act quickly and calmly.

First, assess the immediate surroundings to determine any potential dangers or obstacles.

Then, try to reset the anchor by moving the boat in the opposite direction of the drift and dropping the anchor again.

If this doesn’t work, you may need to find a new anchorage or consider alternative methods, such as using a second anchor or seeking assistance from nearby boaters.

Home » Blog » Sail » How to anchor a boat – an illustrated guide!

How to anchor a boat – an illustrated guide!

By Author Robin Urquhart

Posted on Last updated: May 11, 2019

How to anchor a boat like a pro – the ultimate guide with easy to follow diagrams

Anchoring a boat can be intimidating, but with the right anchor and some simple techniques it can be very easy and safe .  Learn how to anchor a boat in a variety of conditions below.

Choosing a boat anchor

The size and type of anchor you will need is primarily based on three elements: boat weight, windage and bottom condition.  Each anchor manufacturer has a sizing guide based on your boat type and displacement, so it’s best too look them up individually. Here are the anchor sizing guides for Rocna , Manson , Lewmar ( CQR, Delta ), Danforth , and Fortress .

Boat anchor types

There is a new generation of modern anchors that are taking hold and are typified by Rocna and Manson. These new generation style anchors perform well in a variety of bottom conditions and often feature roll bars. But you’ll also find many sailors who swear by their older generation Bruce anchors and CQRs . Many of these anchors are available in galvanized steel or a (more expensive) stainless steel option. However, the stainless steel is more for looks and has no impact on anchor holding performance.

The following chart is a general guideline for how various boat anchors perform in different bottom conditions [1] :

[table id=boatanchor /]

Boat anchors for sale

Now that you know what anchor you want, here are a few tips on buying a boat anchor.

Where to find cheap boat anchors for sale

One of the great things about boat anchors is that they last forever! So there are tons of second-hand anchors for sale that work just as well and cost less than buying new . Of course, due to their weight, they’re expensive to ship so your best bet is to buy an anchor from a marine consignment store or boat junk yard near you .

Budgeting for a complete anchor kit

There will be three major components to your ground tackle (your complete anchoring system) so be sure to leave room in your budget for anchoring accessories .

1) The anchor

The larger the anchor, the more expensive . The anchor itself will cost more if you have a big boat. For example, a small boat anchor, say for a 22 ft boat, might only cost you $200 but for a 50 ft boat you could pay $1,000 or more.

2) The boat anchor winch

At a certain size the anchor will become too heavy to retrieve by hand and you will need a manual or electric boat anchor winch . At the top of the line you can buy a wireless remote to conveniently raise and lower your anchor from anywhere on the boat. Anchor winches can be expensive (likely will cost more than the anchor itself) and time-consuming to install. Whether you can get away without a boat anchor winch, will depend on the size of your anchor and your physical strength.

3) Anchor chain or line

You will also have to purchase anchor line, chain, or a combination of both. High-test anchor chain is the more expensive option ($4-11 per foot). S ome cruisers choose all chain rodes for improved catenary and resistance to abrasion , but the general rule is to have at least 20′ of chain . See paragraph on “How Much Scope” below for how much line or chain you will need.

Anchoring systems can quickly become expensive but they’re also usually worth the investment. Even the most budget conscious cruisers we know tend to invest in this area, some even deeming it an “insurance policy” for their boat. With all that money dangling at the end of your anchor line, many cruisers set up tripping lines. This is essentially a float tied to the anchor that marks its position and can assist in retrieving the anchor if it becomes fouled.

How a boat anchor works

A boat anchor is a simple device. It is designed such that the more pull force applied in line with the shank; the more the anchor seeks to embed itself in the seabed. However, it is impossible to pull an anchor laterally due to the height or depth of the water between the boat and the anchor.  That’s where catenary and scope come into play.

Catenary and scope

Catenary is the name of the curve that is formed by the anchor rode (anchor line) between the boat and the anchor.  Scope is a ratio between the depth of the anchor plus the freeboard of the vessel and how much rode is deployed . Catenary and scope are both important in determining the angle at which the anchor is pulled.  The lower the angle, the better the anchor will perform.

How much scope

The more scope that is deployed, the deeper the catenary curve will be.   This is important because it determines the angle of pull on the anchor and acts as extra weight and friction on the seafloor. As wind or current increase the boat will move further from the anchor, decreasing the catenary and increasing the angle of pull.  In a strong windstorm, when the rode is tight and there is little to no catenary, the amount of rode deployed will determine directly the angle at which the anchor is being pulled.

Common recommendations for how much scope to let out are as follows:

3:1 for lunch stops

5:1 for mild to moderate winds

7:1 for moderate to strong winds or frequent direction changes

10+:1 for very strong winds and/or current

How to anchor a boat

Successfully setting an anchor has a lot to do with communication between the person steering and the person deploying the anchor at the bow. Because of the noise of the engine and wind, we use a system of hand signals to communicate as we set the anchor. Some crews like to use walkie-talkies. Our anchoring system for setting a boat anchor is:

• Bowman drops the anchor in an appropriate location (leaving plenty of swinging room), while drifting backwards slowly
• Helmsman places marker on GPS and Ipad anchor alarm
• Bowman lets out 3:1 scope
• Helmsman reverses slowly until anchor sets
• Helmsman increases RPM to 1800 and hold for five to ten seconds
• Bowman l ets out remainder of rode , depending on the anchorage and weather conditions.

Of course if you plan on sailing onto your anchor (not using a motor) there are a few extra steps .

How to anchor a boat in various conditions

Learning how to anchor a boat in swell can be challenging if the wind is coming from another direction.  Depending on the conditions we use two techniques for anchoring in swell.  Primarily we set a stern anchor to keep our bow pointed roughly 15 degrees off the swell; as we have found this to be the most comfortable position.  Sometimes in less challenging conditions we will set a winch bridle .

Setting the stern anchor

There are two main ways to set the stern anchor .  The first is to set the primary anchor as you normally would.  Once set and the appropriate amount of scope deployed, let out another five to seven scope of rode.  Reverse the boat, keeping the bow into the swell until the rode becomes taut.  Drop the stern anchor and take up the five scope of bow rode.  Take up the stern anchor rode until it is taut.

An alternative is to take the stern anchor in the dinghy to where out 5:1 scope and then winch it taut.

Rigging a bridle

After the anchor is set, some prefer to attach the anchor rode to a bridle rather than leave it running over the bow roller.  A bridle offers a sacrificial layer and reduces strain on the bow roller.  It also reduces swaying and yawing and the noise of the chain.

Setting the winch bridle

Another option for anchoring in swell is to set up a winch bridle .  This is accomplished by fixing a line onto the rode, using a rolling hitch, and bringing that line back to a cockpit winch.  By winching in on the line, it creates a bridle that is no longer directly off the bow of the boat.  This option works if the wind direction is constant, though the winch line can be adjusted as the wind shifts to keep the bow in a comfortable direction.

Two anchors to reducing yawing

In areas where the wind is shifting a lot you may want to set two bow anchors.  Two anchors are set to windward approximately 22-30 degrees to either side of the bow.  Setting two bow anchors is similar to setting a stern anchor, except that after setting the first anchor instead of backing up you motor upwind at a 45-60 degree angle.  When you are even with the first anchor, drop the second anchor and fall back between the two, adjusting the rodes as necessary.

Current changes

In areas that experience fast currents and 180 degree shifts, a common anchoring technique is called the Bahamian moor .  This is more common on the east coast, but is also useful in the river bar anchorages frequent along the California, Washington and Oregon coastlines.  It is the same technique as setting the stern anchor, except that instead of fixing the second anchor to a clean at the stern, both anchors are run off the bow.

Wind and current

Sometimes wind and current will work against each other , causing no end of concern.   In such conditions, boats, especially modern hull designs with fin keels, can move around the anchorage almost at random as they are influenced alternatively by the wind and current.  In such a scenario, turning the wheel hard over to one side and locking it usually keeps the boat in a relatively stable position .  It is same principle as heaving-to; the forward motion of the boat causes it to turn thereby changing the wind angle and dissipating the force.

Etiquette and safety

The three simple rules of anchoring etiquette, which will also increase safety in the anchorage, are:

• Keep as much room between yourself and other boats as is reasonably possible
• Follow the anchoring method (ie. stern anchor, Bahamian moor, etc.) of the boats that were there before you
• Leave room for other boats who come after you to anchor in the anchorage

Anchor alarms

In the unlikely and unfortunate event that the anchor drags there are a number of alarms that will let you know.  Some GPS chartplotters have built-in anchor alarms, drift alarms or depth alarms.  These are handy, but the GPS is often in the cockpit and unless you have a receiver, you may not hear it from the V-berth.  Another option is to download an anchor watch alarm app . Apps often have more functions than the GPS alarm and we can keep the Ipad near us at all times.

Set it and forget it

Whether you are headed out for the day, weekend or season, the basic techniques for anchoring do not change much. The vast majority of the time you will be relying on only one or two of the techniques outlined above. Anchoring is an individualistic activity and everybody has their own personal preferences that have been refined over time. But at its heart anchoring is pretty routine and doesn’t have to be overly complicated.

So now that you know how to anchor a boat it’s time to set the anchor, grab a drink and enjoy life on the hook!

“Ankkurit Testissa” Klaus Salkola, Kippari. March 2015

“14 Ancres Sous Haute Tension” Francois-Xavier de Crecy Voile May 2012

“Anchors Aware! Anchors on Test” Professor John Knox Practical Boat Owner August 2011

“Holding Power” Bill Springer, SAIL, October 2006

“Anchoring”67 th Ed. Chapman Piloting and Seamanship, 2013

“Selecting the Right Anchor” Tom Burden The West Advisor 2014

Robin was born and raised in the Canadian North. His first memory of travel on water was by dogsled across a frozen lake. After studying environmental science and engineering he moved to Vancouver aboard a 35’ sailboat with his partner, Fiona, with the idea to fix up the boat and sail around the world. He has written for several sailing publications including SAIL, Cruising World, and was previously a contributing editor at Good Old Boat.

Jean Baillargeon

Saturday 11th of May 2019

Monday 24th of April 2017

Interesting that you fail to mention anchor bearings taken with a hand bearing compass. These are not totally fool proof, but they are a low tech method of checking your anchored position. Three bearings taken at approximately 120 degree angles on objects that should be visible at night and you are set. Check them periodically to insure you are in the same position. Chapman's has a nice section describing how to do them.

Just because it is old and low tech does not mean that it is worth ignoring.

We enter them in the log as well as when we hoist, or turn on, the anchor light in the event there may be a legal question about these things.

You also fail to mention getting up at regular intervals to look things over.....many unforeseen problems occur that are not even on your boat, such as another boat coming in and anchoring on top of you after you go to sleep.

I like and use the electronic anchor alarms, but I won't bet my life on them.

Monday 29th of May 2017

Such excellently points. Thank you Jim. I'm looking forward to trying your hand-bearing compass suggestion. Thanks so much for sharing.

Mark Holzmann

Friday 21st of April 2017

Great information Robin. Don't forget to include Mantus anchors in your consideration. They are awesome and excel in most anchor tests.

I would love some ideas for anchoring on Rivers with current and wind. If using rope road you can get lazy anchor syndrome. That's when wind can over come current, your boat drifts lazy on the water and eventually your rode wraps around your keel. Not fun!! Aside from a stern anchors, chain or a Kellett I am at wits end, LOL!!

Thanks Mark, you're right, Mantus are great anchors. We know lots of boats sporting them. One of the best features is being able to break them down to flat for storage and transport. We included Mantus in the chart in the article and in the mention of new generation anchors. As for anchoring in rivers with a lot of wind we don't have a lot of experience, but we've heard a lot of people like the Bahamian moor. I actually originally included a diagram in the article but removed it for brevity's sake. I'll add it back in again and republish, but there is a lot of good information on how to set up a Bahamian moor. Sometimes difficult to set, but overall works very well in rivers with shifting currents. Thanks for the feedback and suggestions.

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How to Anchor a Sailboat

One of the most vital skills for a sailor is oftentimes one of the most confounding ones. Setting the hook in all the different types of anchorages you’re likely to end up in can be confusing to new boaters. Despite how perplexing it can be, this skill is incredibly important, lest you find yourself waking in the middle of the night to the sound of your boat dragging anchor towards rocks.

Good technique and properly-sized equipment for anchoring is vital. Yet, more times than not, even experienced sailors are distracted or in a hurry and skip one of the vital steps for anchoring securely. Even worse, some new sailors never learn the essentials and just throw any anchor-shaped hunk of metal overboard, hoping for the best. That tactic isn’t likely to keep you safe while you slumber so let’s go through what you should do instead.

Table of contents

A Little Forethought

The first thing to do when you’re going to anchor is to pick an anchorage. This may already seem like a lot, but picking a good spot is crucial. You must understand the conditions of that spot before tossing your anchor into the water and calling it good.

Use the chart you purchased or printed out, making a note of all the vital information. Things like wind direction and speed, tidal currents, and even the forecast can be important pieces of the puzzle. Pay extra attention to anything that might reverse the direction your boat is being pulled to prevent having your anchor pulled out.

The best spot is going to have some protection from the wind and waves. You would prefer to have a sand or mud bottom as opposed to a rock or heavy grass bottom. If you have a brand new chart, it’s probably going to have information on the bottom characteristics as well as some of those good spots marked out. You should also make sure that your spot is a few feet deeper than the draft of your boat during low tide.

Once you’ve picked your spot, it’s time to prepare the anchor. Whether lowered by hand or on a roller, make sure the anchor rode is free to run. If it isn’t marked at progressive depths with tags or color codes, stretch it back and forth on deck to keep track of how much rode you’re letting out. For safety’s sake, plan out at least 6 times the water depth.

Actual Anchoring

The actual technique of anchoring can be a bit tricky to learn but can buy you some peace of mind once mastered. Knowing your boat isn’t going to slip off into the night or ram into a neighbor because your anchor dragged can be a massive relief. No one wants to awaken to a bump in the night.

First, you have to actually position the boat where you want to anchor. For motorsailers, you may find this easier to do under power. However you decide to do it, move slowly. There is no need to rush this. It’s better to take a long time on a secure anchor than to rush and drag later. Once you’re over the position, drop anchor. Be careful not to drop a ton of chain on top of your anchor.

Once the anchor is on the seabed, let the boat drift back gradually as you pay out chain. Don’t disturb the anchor yet. For the anchor to work, you want to pull horizontally along the seabed. You are setting the scope as you pay out the chain. The goal is to get the anchor to pull at 15° to 20°. Once sufficient chain has been let out, secure the anchor chain on deck.

Now we have to wait for the anchor to dig in and take its initial set. Once you have the initial set, begin slowly moving astern until the anchor chain straightens out. While you’re moving your boat, pay very careful attention to the chain. If it jumps, that means you’re dragging anchor. If everything seems alright then feel free to hook up the snubber and let out more chain until there’s a loop of it between the snubber hook and the bow roller. Congratulations on anchoring your boat.

Additional Tips

Some additional tips and tricks are in order. This is just good information to have in the back of your mind when anchoring.

Using the Right Type of Anchor

First, your type of anchor heavily influences your ability to set the hook.  Most cruising sailboats are going to be equipped with at least two types, each with their own separate rodes. The preferred choice for the bower is generally a spade while a lightweight Danforth generally takes the spot as a kedge. Be familiar with the anchors you’re going to be using and how they’re designed to function.

It may seem strange but the good old-fashioned fisherman’s anchor isn’t going to work the same way as a modern CQR anchor. They are also going to do generally better at different sea beds.

Find the Right Size

Match the anchor you’re using to the size of your boat. All anchors are not created equal. If you’re using a 15lb anchor on a 33ft motorsailer, you are probably not going to have it easy. If you don’t appropriately size your anchor for your vessel, you are increasing the chance of dragging.

If you aren’t sure what size anchor to get, check with the boat’s manufacturer. They often have recommendations. At the end of the day, it’s alright to go on the bigger side of things. Don’t choose your anchor for reasonable conditions. Expect the absolute worst situations because you can’t change your anchor when you’re already out on the seas.

Dragging the Anchor

Understand what it really means to drop anchor. This isn’t a literal phrase. You should lower the anchor slowly. Lowering the anchor gradually prevents the chain from falling on the anchor flukes and fouling the anchor. Dropping it too quickly makes it more likely that a fouled anchor is going to drag if the wind comes up later.

Even when you’ve anchored perfectly and everything has gone according to plan, you should still check periodically.  Changing conditions could result in that perfectly-set anchor deciding to drag anyway. Before you take a load off for the night, make sure to have a few ways to tell if your boat is dragging. A modern method is a GPS which can easily reveal a change of positions.

Something a little lower tech would be a small secondary anchor with a noise maker tied to it and dangled over the cockpit. If set up correctly, when the boat moves, the secondary anchor’s rope will pull and cause the noise maker to fall down into the cockpit. If all goes as planned, you wake up to the banging and take any actions needed.

A way to verify dragging is to check the anchor rode at the bow. You may be able to see or feel changes in its tension. If the anchor is bouncing all over the place, it will be easy to spot or feel.

Anchors Aweigh

Keeping your boat from dragging and drifting into rocks, another boat, or a reef is at the top of your priority list. In order to make sure your anchor sets properly and your night of sleep isn’t interrupted by the sound of a boat running aground, it’s best to be safe rather than sorry.

Go through your plan slowly. Make sure you pick the best anchorage for your needs. Check that none of the conditions might change while you’re on the hook, causing your boat to drift in the opposite direction and pull your anchor free. Ensure that you have the right equipment to begin with and make sure to double-check the anchor before you call it a night. It’s better to stay up a little later and make sure your anchor is properly set than to wake up to bad news.

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Daniel Wade

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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The 5 Best Sailboat Anchors

A good anchor for a sailboat will help keep a vessel stationary and stable in the water in any weather conditions or marine environment.

There are a number of top anchors for sailing boats that can work on sailboats of both small and large sizes of under 20ft to over 100ft.

The best sailboat anchors are:

• Best Overall : Mantus Marine M1 Mantus Anchor
• Best For Holding Boat : Lewmar Claw Anchor
• Best For Price : Seachoice Utility Anchor
• Best For Small Sailboats : Fortress FX-11 Anchor
• Best For Large Sailboats : Rocna Galvanized Anchor

These anchors will ensure the sailboat is anchoring properly in any sailing conditions.

Sailboat owners should choose an anchor based on the size and type of their sailboat as well as the type of marine environment their vessel will be located in.

For example, anchoring a sailboat on a sandy surface is different than anchoring a sailboat on a rocky surface and it will require different anchors.

1. M1 Mantus Galvanized Anchor

The best overall sailboat anchor is the M1 Mantus anchor manufactured by the brand Mantus Marine in Texas, America and sold worldwide.

This fluke anchor is the best overall anchor because it can dig deep into the seafloor and ensure the sailing vessel will not float away.

The M1 Mantus anchor is constructed of hot-dipped galvanized steel with the shank and shank boot welded from top to bottom.

It is a plow anchor shaped with a sharp triangle-shaped nose, a straight shank and a "U" shaped roll bar bolted to a fluke.

This anchor comes in many different sizes from 8lbs to 175lbs. It comes with 4 American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) certified bolts.

The M1 Mantus anchor is used on seafloor surfaces including sandy, gravel, grassy and muddy sea floors. It is not used on rocky sea floors.

The M1 Mantus can be used in different types of locations including rivers, sea and lakes.

Sailboat sizes of 20ft to 65ft can use the M1 Mantus anchor.

The M1 Mantus anchor is priced between $180 for the smallest 8lb anchor to approximately $3,000 for the largest 175lb anchor at most retailers.

The M1 Mantus anchor works to hold a vessel in position in winds of up to 40 knots, highlighting its great holding power abilities.

The benefits of the M1 Mantus anchor are:

• It comes with a great lifetime warranty : The Mantus Marine manufacturer offers a lifetime warranty on this anchor for added peace of mind
• It can be disassembled easily for storage : Simple disassembling bolts make it easy for storing this anchor when it is not in use
• Multiple size options : With anchor size options from 8lbs to 175lbs, sailboat owners of different vessel sizes, from small sailboats of 20ft to large sailboats of 65ft can use this anchor
• It works in multiple marine conditions : This anchor works in multiple marine conditions from calm ocean currents to extremely windy and storm conditions with up to 40 knots of wind speed
• High-performance sharp head nose enables easy penetration of the sea floor : The sharp edge nose of this anchor means it penetrates the ocean floor fast and with ease
• It is hot dipped galvanized for corrosion prevention : This anchor is hot dipped galvanized giving it extra protection against corrosion and wear from corrosive seawater
• It comes with 4 high-quality oversized A.S.T.M. certified bolts : This anchor comes with 4 oversized bolts with a large margin of safety that will help prevent damage

One disadvantage of the M1 Mantus anchor is it is more expensive than other anchors on the market.

M1 Mantas Anchor On Amazon →

M1 Mantas Anchor On eBay →

2. Lewmar Claw Anchor

The best sailboat anchor for its holding power is the Lewmar Claw anchor manufactured by the brand Lewmar in Hampshire, United Kingdom and sold worldwide.

The Lewmar Claw anchor is constructed of high-grade galvanized steel cast in a single piece. This anchor was inspired and designed based on anchors used to secure oil rigs in the North Sea.

The Lewmar Claw anchor comes in sizes from 2.2lbs to 176lbs. It is used on seabed surfaces including sandy, muddy, gravel and grassy ocean floors. It is not used on rocky surfaces.

The Lewmar Claw anchor can be used in different types of marine locations including ocean, lake and river floors.

Sailboat sizes of 12ft to 65ft can use the Lewmar Claw anchor.

The Lewmar Claw anchor is priced between approximately $30 for the smallest 2.2lb anchor to approximately $1,300 for the largest 176lb anchor at most retailers.

The Lewmar Claw anchor can hold a sailing vessel in position in winds up to 50 knots without the boat floating away.

The benefits of the Lewmar Claw anchor are:

• It's fast setting : Depending on the sea depth, this anchor can set and begin anchoring a vessel in under 5 minutes
• It has great holding power : This anchor can help with anchoring boats in position in extremely harsh weather conditions with winds up to 50 knots
• Easy bow roller storable : This anchor can fit and store nicely in most bow roller shapes and styles without any issues
• It's a budget-friendly anchor : The Lewmar Claw anchor is one of the cheapest on the market and it should be within most sailboat owner's budget with the most expensive anchor sold at a price of approximately $1,300
• It's built with strong & high-quality material : The Lewmar Claw is built with high-quality and heat-treated steel with a galvanized finish

One disadvantage of the Lewmar Claw anchor is it does not come with a lifetime warranty.

Lewmar Claw Anchor On Amazon →

Lewmar Claw Anchor On Walmart →

3. Seachoice Utility Anchor

The best sailboat anchor for the price is the Seachoice Utility anchor manufactured by the brand Seachoice in Florida, America and sold worldwide.

This fluke anchor is the best for the price because it offers the most options for the cheapest price on the market.

The Seachoice Utility anchor is constructed of hot-dipped galvanized steel or PVC-coated steel. It comes in 5 different color options including red, black, white, light blue and grey.

This anchor comes in different sizes from 4.5lbs to 8.5lbs.

The Seachoice Utility anchor is priced at approximately $25 for the smallest 4.5lb anchor to approximately $70 for the larger 8.5lb anchor at most retailers.

The Seachoice Utility anchor is used on different seabed surfaces including gravel, sand, grassy and muddy sea floors. It is not used on rocky seafloors.

The Seachoice anchor can be used in different types of marine locations including the sea, rivers and lakes.

Sailboat sizes of 10ft to 30ft can use the Seachoice Utility anchor.

The Seachoice Utility anchor can hold a sailboat in position and keep it anchored in wind speeds up to 30 knots without the boat floating away.

The benefits of the Seachoice Utility anchor are:

• It comes with a 1-year warranty : The Seachoice Utility anchor comes with a 1-year manufacturers warranty for added peace of mind
• It comes in multiple color options : Sailboat owners can choose from 5 different anchor colors
• It's easy to retrieve from the seawater : This anchor comes with a great slip-ring design that makes it easy to retrieve it from the water after use
• Sharp anchor fluke design makes penetration easy : The sharp fluke design helps the anchor to easily penetrate the seafloor surface
• It is cheap : The Seachoice Utility anchor is the cheapest anchor on the market with the largest anchor priced at approximately $70

Two disadvantages of the Seachoice Utility anchor are the anchor can only be used on smaller sailboats up to 30ft in length and it can not be used on larger sailboats over 30ft and the anchor can not be used on rocky sea floors.

Seachoice Utility Anchor On Amazon →

Seachoice Utility Anchor On Walmart →

4. Fortress FX-11 Anchor

The best sailboat anchor for small sailboats is the Fortress FX-11 anchor manufactured by the brand Fortress Marine Anchors in Florida, America and sold worldwide.

This fluke anchor is the best for small boats because its lightweight aluminum material is capable of holding a sailboat up to 32ft without the anchor being extra heavy.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor is constructed of aluminum alloy material and it comes in a size of 7lbs.

It comes with a pivot adjustment which allows an adjustment of the anchor angle between 32° to 45°.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor is used on seafloor surfaces including sand, gravel, mud and grassy surfaces. It is not used on rocky seafloor surfaces.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor can be used in different marine locations including lakes, rivers and the sea.

Sailboat sizes of between 28ft to 32ft can use the FX-11 anchor.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor is priced at approximately $200 at most retailers.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor works to hold a sailing vessel in position in winds up to 30 knots without the vessel floating away.

The benefits of the Fortress FX-11 anchor are:

• It's rustproof : The light but strong aluminum material is rustproof meaning the anchor will not suffer from rusting caused by the corrosive seawater
• It comes with a lifetime parts warranty : The Fortress FX-11 anchor comes with a lifetime parts replacement warranty against damage that might occur to any parts of the anchor
• It is easy to store after use : It can be easily disassembled which means it is easy to store onboard the sailboat after using it#
• Penetrates the seafloor and sets deeper : The sharp edge d anchor allows it to easily penetrate seafloors and anchor a boat

One disadvantage of the Fortress FX-11 anchor is it can only be used on smaller sailboats between 28ft to 32ft and it cannot be used on larger sailing vessels over 32ft.

Fortress FX-11 On Amazon →

Fortress FX-11 On Walmart →

5. Rocna Galvanized Anchor

The best anchor for larger sailboats is the Rocna galvanized steel anchor manufactured by the brand Rocna in British Columbia, Canada and sold worldwide.

The Rocna anchor is constructed of galvanized steel with solid welding from top to bottom.

The Rocna galvanized steel anchor was designed by New Zealand sailor Peter Smith.

The Rocna anchor design comes with a roll-bar to ensure the anchor can penetrate the surface at the best angle and one-third of the anchor's weight is on the fluke tip which also helps with the penetration of the seafloor surface.

The Rocna anchor comes in 14 different sizes from 9lbs to 606lbs.

This fluke anchor is the best for larger sailboats because it offers anchors up to 606lbs which will help with anchoring most larger sailing vessels.

The Rocna anchor can be used on all sea surfaces from gravel, mud, sand, clay, kelp and rocks. It can also be used in marine locations including lakes, rivers and the sea.

Sailboat sizes of 12ft to over 300ft can use the Rocna galvanized steel anchor.

The Rocna galvanized steel anchor is priced between approximately $220 for the smallest 9lbs anchor to approximately $12,000 for the largest 606lb anchor.

The Rocna galvanized steel anchor can hold a sailing vessel in position in winds up to 40 knots without the boat floating away.

The benefits of the Rocna galvanized anchor are:

• It comes with a great lifetime warranty : The Rocna galvanized anchor comes with a lifetime warranty against breakage, manufacturing defects and bending for added peace of mind
• It can be used on all sea surfaces : The Rocna galvanized steel anchor can be used on all sea surfaces including gravel, sand, mud and rocky sea floors and it is not limited or restricted to just a few types of surfaces
• It sets fast : The sharp edge fluke helps penetrate the sea surface and the anchor sets fast as a result of this design

One disadvantage of the Rocna anchor is it is not the cheapest anchor with the cheapest price at approximately $220.

Rocna Anchor On Amazon →

Top Sailboat Anchors Comparison Table

What To Consider When Buying A Sailboat Anchor

The factors to consider before buying a sailboat anchor are:

• Type of material used : The type of material used to create the anchor is an important consideration when buying a sailboat anchor. Most modern anchors are constructed using aluminum steel or galvanized steel
• Durability : How long the anchor can last is a factor to consider when buying a sailboat anchor. Modern anchors come with lifetime warranties and they should last for well over 10 years
• Size Of The Boat : Identifying the proper anchor size for a boat is not a perfect science but the size of your boat is an extremely important factor to consider when choosing a top sailboat anchor. Typically, the larger the boat size, the bigger the anchor that is required
• Price : Price will also play a big role in the sailboat anchor you buy. Anchors come in many different prices for many different budgets

Frequently Asked Questions About The Best Sailboat Anchors

Below are the most common and frequently asked questions about the top sailing vessel anchors.

What Are The Best Sailboat Anchor Brands?

The best sailboat anchor brands are:

• Five Oceans Danforth Style
• Mantus Marine

Are Top Sailing Boat Anchors Expensive?

No, top sailboat anchors are not expensive with some of the best sailboat anchors priced as little as $25 in some instances.

What Are The Different Types Of Sailboat Anchors Available For Sailboat Owners?

The types of sailboat anchors available are:

• Fluke anchors
• Plow anchors
• Claw anchors
• Mushroom anchors
• Grapnel anchors

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Anchoring Masterclass: How to Anchor like an Expert

Want to anchor with confidence and ease? Tom Fletcher shares some hard learnt charter skipper secrets for expert anchoring…

Tackling anchoring.

Have you ever had the Greek Gods of Anchoring displeased with you? I have. I once spent a week on charter with a wonderfully nice father and daughter, on board Sail Ionian’s brand-new Bavaria C50, and it was an absolute nightmare. What’s more, the yacht had just had a new 30kg Rocna fitted, so I couldn’t even blame the ground tackle! Everywhere I went that week I had to have three or four attempts at dropping before the anchor would catch. By the end, I was in tears with frustration, and still don’t know what I was doing wrong. The next time I took her out on charter I had no problems whatsoever.

In the Ionian we rely heavily on our anchor . It can make or break a week on charter so always make a point of checking what the yacht you’re booking is equipped with. Even for a 30-footer I wouldn’t want under 50m of chain. If I was being demanding, as a rule of thumb I would multiply the length of the boat in meters x5, to get the minimum number of meters of chain I would like.

Favoured anchor types will vary depending upon the type of seabed or the area you’re in. Designs like the Bruce or Fluke can be outstanding in sandy areas like the Caribbean. CQRs can be brilliant where tidal flow direction can change, as the design allows them to twist without breaking out. Even fisherman anchors or grapnels can be useful in rocky areas and riverbeds. However, my years of experience in the Ionian have taught me that a Rocna is the best you can get for varied types of seabeds. At Sail Ionian the whole fleet is retrofitted with Rocnas, or their sister the Vulcan which doesn’t have the roll bar.

Make sure your boat handover goes into detail on the windlass and where the trip switch or fuse is. You will want to know how to tighten the gypsy, and how to free drop the chain too. If you can test the windlass by dropping and raising chain, do so. It’s good to see if the windlass is slow or fast, whether it sounds healthy, and if there is any juddering or slipping (which is a good indication of a worn gypsy that should be replaced before you leave).

I have a real bugbear with skippers who don’t realise the importance of their crew on the bow. With a little training and explanation, they can be the yacht’s best asset when anchoring. I have lost count of the number of times I have started training a crew how to med moor , only to find that the bow person doesn’t have a clue what they are doing, and merely responds to shouted direction from the helm. I like to teach the bow person about techniques, types of seabeds, length of chain… all sorts. I guess some people aren’t that interested, but most seem to like to understand what they are doing!  A crew working together in this way is much more effective. When small problems arise, they can then be dealt with quickly. I like to teach some hand signals too, to stop the shouting over the noise of the windlass and the wind. A basic set of ‘drop’, ‘stop’, ‘up’ and ‘down’ are enough to deal with most needs. Knowledge of how to weigh anchor and control the chain when it’s coming in are invaluable too.

Don’t try to anchor on a steep declining seabed

This is one that is peculiar to deep water anchorages, of which we have many in the Ionian! It can be a common situation that you are trying to anchor near the shore, with the wind blowing the yacht off. However, because of the steepness of the seabed you have the bow in 5m of water but the stern in 10m of water! As you reverse and lay out chain the yacht is getting into progressively deeper and deeper water. The anchor just has no chance of holding as it is, in effect, being dragged down a hill. The moral of the story being to consider not just the material of the seabed, but also the bathymetry.

Deep water techniques

It is quite common on an Ionian charter that I will choose to anchor in well over 10 meters of water. The main constraints with depth are firstly the length of chain we carry, and secondly the strength of the windlass motor. At Sail Ionian, a typical 40ft charter yacht will carry at least 60 meters of chain. Using the old maxim of 4-5 times the depth of water, we get a maximum anchoring depth range of around 12-15 meters. Our windlasses can deadlift a substantial weight, but when you consider the length of chain plus the anchor at the end, it is a considerable lift. We usually recommend to guests to always stick under 12 meters, much deeper than that and fuses can start blowing!

When dropping in these depths it is important to remember that it takes time for the anchor to hit the seabed. We often see people reversing as they drop, not realising by the time the anchor catches they can easily be 15-20 meters further away from where they intended the anchor to be. This can cause all sorts of complications, from changes in depth to distance from the shore for long lining. In fact, the most common issue this causes is when long lining; the yacht ends up much closer to the shore than intended, with much less chain out that desired! It’s easy to time your windlass over 10 meters of chain to get an idea how quick it is, then you know roughly how long it will take for the anchor to drop to the seabed.

I would advise positioning the bow where you want the anchor, then letting down 10m of chain, before starting to reverse into the wind, ensuring your anchor is where you want it.

Always look for clear water

The colour of the water is the first give-away of what sort of seabed you’re dealing with, and where in a bay you should drop the hook. A normal Ionian bay will have beautiful clear water and be a uniform mid blue, with patches of light blue. Those light blue patches are usually sandy, without any weed, and are a great spot to aim for. Firstly, you should explore the anchorage at slow speed, keeping one eye on the depth gauge and one eye on the water. Different parts of the bay may be windier that other too. Once you’ve picked your spot, look for those lighter patches of water and aim to get the bow over them. Here is another great example of where you need to reply on your crew on the bow. They will need to direct you to position the bow of the boat over the sand and drop the anchor there. Again, a little communication in terms of positioning and depth, or length of chain, is needed, so that you can get the anchor down on the sand before you start moving in reverse.

Wind directions & local knowledge

Considering wind direction is one of the first lessons to be taught about anchoring. It is, however, complicated by the fickle nature of the Ionian wind. At the mercy of island topography, katabatics, and even time of day, picking a spot that isn’t a lee shore can sometimes be harder than you think. Often a perfect lunchtime anchorage with a light offshore breeze can change to a lee shore once the temperature of the day increases and the afternoon anabatic winds start up.

The first time I saw local Greek charter skippers long lining off the beach in Marmagas on Ithaca I was confused. The morning breeze was light and blowing them onto the shore. I assumed their guests must have asked to be as close to the beach as possible. By the end of lunch though, the wind had switched to a feisty offshore 15 knots, gusting above 20, and my anchor was dragging into deeper water where I had dropped in the middle of the bay. Those Greek charter skippers were sitting comfortably, being blown off the beach, with the strain on their long lines, not on their anchor. It’s always worth keeping a humble eye on what other sailors are doing – there’s always someone cleverer than yourself! 

Free dropping chain vs. lowering on the windlass

As divisive an issue as any in sailing circles! Many who care for their own windlass much prefer to treat it carefully and drop chain freely, by loosening the gypsy, taking the strain away from the windlass motor. At Sail Ionian, we always tell our guests to drop using the windlass though. We feel it gives guests more control, and there is less danger of fingers getting near fast moving lengths of chain. There is also a tendency for the gypsy not to be tightened enough after free dropping. This can result in slipping when weighing anchor, which in turn causes a lot of engineering call-outs and a large fuel bill for a very quick job of tightening the gypsy to the correct tension.

The most important time to consider dropping freely, and quickly, is when you are anchoring in a very windy situation. Sometimes you just want to get the anchor down fast and keep the boat under control using the engine. This can be particularly true for long lining or med mooring in a crosswind. Releasing the chain slowly on the windlass motor can slow the yacht to the point where you lose all steerage.

Whenever free dropping anchor, it is essential to check the bitter end is attached to the yacht securely, and to slow the rate of descent as you approach the end of the chain. Bitter ends are designed to separate when needed, and the speed and weight of a full chain locker dropped without braking can be enough to rip the bitter end d-ring from the deck. I have seen the confused look on faces as the end of the chain follows the anchor to the seabed. Another good reason to train your bow person well! If this ever happens to you, try and note your position in the bay, or hit the MOB button on the GPS quickly. If they know where to look the charter company may be able to dive and find the tackle, saving you a large bill.

Checking you’re well in

Finally, a lot of the issues I see out there could be avoided with a final check to test the anchor. I often see anchors dropped and engine off within seconds, with no attempt to test how well the anchor is dug in. I prefer to sit there with the engine running at least 1000 rpm in reverse for the 5 minutes it takes for the kettle to boil, before I’m happy to relax.

It is a fact of life in the Ionian that there is a lot of weed on the seabed and often anchors can get caught up in this, appear to have set, but break free after a persistent snatch. But this can also be the situation when you have a lot of chain out too. The weight of the chain alone can be enough to resist light winds, or low revs on the engine. It’s only with more force that it becomes clear the anchor is not actually in, and the boat starts drifting.

I have spent many a stormy Vliho night on the bow of an anchored yacht in over 30 knots of wind and not moved anywhere. A well dug in anchor can cope with a surprising amount of force. So don’t be shy with checking you’re set, give her some revs and sit back for a few minutes. You’ll sleep a lot better.

Tom Fletcher is a hugely experience skipper and instructor at Sail Ionian. For more information, go to the Sail Ionian Website .

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Anchoring: 7 common problems solved

• Toby Heppell
• April 21, 2021

Yachting Monthly experts share the problems they have most often faced when anchoring, and how they troubleshoot their way out

Adaptable anchoring skills allow you to cut loose from overcrowded marinas. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

The basics of anchoring are one of the first things that cruisers learn.

Indeed most of us are happiest on the hook in a quiet bay somewhere, escaping the hustle and bustle (and fees) of a night in a marina .

No matter how many hours we have spent at sea, a peaceful night’s sleep at anchor is reliant on the knowledge that we are safe and secure.

As with almost all aspects of sailing, knowing how to anchor is all well and good, but there are no hard and fast rules that work for all situations.

There is no peace of mind without knowing that your anchor is secure. Credit: Lester McCarthy

We’ve all experienced problems at anchor, be that struggling to find decent holding on a less than ideal seabed, or trying to limit swinging in a busy anchorage.

Often a secure anchorage is the result of applying your years of experience and knowledge to ensure you stay safe and secure, no matter what situation you may find yourself in.

With this in mind, we picked the brains of some of Yachting Monthly’s experienced contributors to find out what they have learned from a few of the trickier situations they have found themselves in.

1. How to ensure you have suitable kit for anchoring

When anchoring, make sure you have the right gear. Credit: Graham Snook

Selecting the right tackle and equipment for your own cruising is largely subjective. What is key, however, is ensuring it is always in a good state of repair.

See what the chart says about the seabed. Is it suitable for your anchor?

Mud is good for most anchor types , but those with a large surface area will be more reliable.

Silt will be suitable for most anchor types.

Clay can be hard to set in but once set, holding is good for most anchors.

An anchor with a sharp tip will set more readily here.

Sand provides variable holding, which depends on sand hardness but an anchor with a large surface area is preferable.

Typically, beds made up of gravel and rock are weak and unsuitable for anchoring.

Check the condition of your anchor and cable.

Brian Black spent many seasons cruising the high latitudes. Credit: Brian Black

Is the bitter end lashed to the boat?

Never attach it with a shackle.

Instead, use a lashing or thin rope that you can cut quickly with a knife if you need to lose the anchor and cable in a hurry.

I always cruise with two anchors on board to make sure I can set two lines if needed.

Is your cable entirely chain, or is it a rope and chain combination?

In a combination, I would always have 10m of chain between the anchor and the warp.

You are going to trust your boat and your life to the anchor and the cable, so always check the recommended weight of anchor and gauge of chain or warp for your tonnage of boat.

Err on the side of caution.

Brian Black

2. Caught out by wind and tide changes

Factor in adequate swinging room and use a Bahamian moor if possible when anchoring. Credit: Colin Work

Proper anchoring is all about anticipation of changing variables.

You may have a secure holding now, and have plenty of space to play with, but what happens if the wind changes, a popular spot gets crowded or the tide turns?

Former Royal Marine, world-renowned racer and adventurer, Pete Goss has sailed more than 250,000 miles, both racing and cruising

The key to successful anchoring, no matter what the prevailing conditions or how good the anchorage, is to consider tide or wind changes before dropping anchor, and make sure you have enough swinging room.

If there is a great deal of wind, then haul up and reset.

If I expect a windshift that would leave us on a lee shore, we move.

If there is no other option, I’ll make sure I’m clear of the short and set alarms for overnight.

If no one else is around then you may want to stern-kedge, and take lines ashore if appropriate.

However, we have proved many times that our anchor resets efficiently after quite significant windshifts, although this does come after many hours on the hook.

If I’ve got the space and time then a Bahamian moor is typically the most useful method of anchoring where I know there is going to be a high likelihood of swinging.

3. Dealing with a dragging anchor

Dragging the anchor is probably the biggest concern when on the hook, especially if you value a good night’s sleep or plan on leaving your boat at any point.

Dragging an anchor is typically the result of improper setting and, as with much of our cruising, prevention is better than cure.

If winds are strong we may rig two snubbers.

We’ve had a moment in the past where another boat went past us with no-one on board, obviously dragging.

Ken Endean is an inshore pilotage enthusiast who has made a close study of coastal sea conditions around the British Isles

I’ve managed to board the boat.

The first thing I did was to haul up the anchor, as when they are dragging they will pick up all sorts of stuff from the bottom that will stop it setting again.

So I’d say that is the key.

Make sure you raise it quickly, clear it and then you can get it reset.

Only ever turn off the engine and log the position once you’re happy.

If one of us is slightly unsure about how we’ve ended up, then we pick up and re-drop, no matter how much of a hassle it may seem.

Picking a good transit with the shore from a fixed spot is the best way to ensure you are not moving.

Provided there is no significant wind or tide change while you wait, you can leave the cockpit and return occasionally for a check until you are sure you are secure.

4. Keeping track of your boat ashore

Asking the crew of other boats to keep a look out for your yacht will boost your anchoring confidence

Stepping ashore, whether to find a local pub, enjoy the beach or simply explore the surroundings, can be stressful if you are not 100% sure of your holding.

How do you maintain peace of mind, particularly when out of visual contact?

Having a good object sighting or transit on your boat from a repeatable spot ashore can offer reassurance, leaving you safe in the knowledge that your boat is not moving.

It’s also worth noting that you are rarely alone in more popular anchorages, and I have often asked those around us to keep an eye out for our boat if we are going to be out of sight of it for a bit.

Remember to return the favour if asked.

If you are anchoring in a spot with good mobile coverage, there are apps out there that will allow you to leave a device onboard (an iPad or similar) and take a linked device (your phone).

The display on your phone can mirror that of the device left onboard, and will let you know about swing and can sound the alarm if the anchor begins to drag.

5. Dealing with rolling

Use the weight of a stable dinghy to inhibit roll. Credit: Ken Endean

A rolling boat can ruin your night, making for a tired and unhappy crew in the morning.

So how do you dampen the effects of the wind and sea on your boat?

Train waves normally generate rhythmic rolling – the most annoying kind.

Each wave imparts a small roll impulse and the boat’s oscillation increases as energy accumulates.

Continues below…

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Is your anchor chain up the job?

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More tips on using an anchor

Duncan Wells passes on even more tips on using an anchor to help with boat handling, how to drop ground…

This is most likely to happen if the wave period – the interval between successive wave crests – coincides with the natural roll period of the boat.

Selecting an anchorage where this type of wave can be avoided is your best bet – whether that be finding natural protection or selecting a spot that will improve as the tide turns.

Every now and then, we find ourselves at anchor with an unpleasant rolling action and with few options to find a better spot.

We can use a kedge anchor to hold a yacht end-on to waves or swell.

The main drawback is that this prevents the vessel from swinging.

If the anchorage is crowded and adjacent craft are lying with single anchors, they may swing into her.

A spring on the cable is another way of changing a boat’s alignment, but there are several limitations.

Any current interferes with the balance of forces and if there is a lull in the wind the weight of the anchor chain will cause it to sag, pulling the bow towards the anchor.

This technique is likely to be most effective when anchored on warp or moored to a buoy, and in a steady wind.

Some cruising yachts rig roll-damping equipment, which is intended to reduce the amplitude of rolling and break the rhythm.

One time-honoured method is a steadying sail set as high as possible, to exert the maximum restraining leverage as the mast oscillates.

In the picture above, the weight of a stable dinghy is used to inhibit roll.

Submerged roll dampers are less likely to cause trouble in strong winds.

One of the simplest designs is a triangular ‘ flopper stopper’, a board weighted at its apex and suspended by a three-part bridle.

The boom is swung out, restrained by a fore guy, and the board suspended from its end, underwater.

On the boom’s downward roll the flopper stopper sinks quickly, then the bridle lines snatch taut and the board resists the upward roll.

The snatch is not instantaneous because the apex has to be lifted through the ‘snatch distance’ before all three lines come taut.

6. What to do if your chosen spot is busy?

Anchoring in the right spot involves weighing up a number of variables. Credit: Visit Jersey

If you are late into an already busy anchorage, then you will need to pick your spot with care.

With all the room in the world, you have a great deal more leeway, but how do you make sure you will not cause others any problems or cause for concern?

Feeding out the correct scope and ensuring the anchor is well set and dug in are easy enough.

But the real difficulty lies in knowing exactly where to place the hook in order to end up with the final happy positioning of your yacht in relation to every other one in the anchorage.

You need to really know how your boat moves in wind and tide, and then add that to what you can deduce about each of the surrounding boats and whether they’re lying taut or idle on their chains.

For example, I prefer to not anchor next to a catamaran, or a long-keeled boat as I know they will dance in the current very differently from us.

Likewise, read the immediate topography of the land and water, anticipating which directions you may get wind gusts or strong currents from, if there are forecasted shifts in the weather and if any of that will affect the other vessels contrarily in relation to you.

Above all,  you need to be totally satisfied about the depth you’re in and what changes the tide may make to where your boat sits.

You have to make the best guess as to what depths the other boats may be sat in, how generous they’re likely to be with the scope of chain or rode they lay out and be aware if there are additional stern anchors set.

The difference between where you drop and where you’ll eventually sit, either when lazing on the chain or pulling back on it, is a calculation that takes precision and practice.

In crowded places, always make sure you use a buoy to mark your anchor and always mark a stern anchor.

Dinghies and water taxis will avoid the bow but not always the stern.

Always use an anchor light .

We’ve arrived at night in anchorages and nearly collided with unlit boats.

Solar garden lamps on the bow and stern are a good idea in addition to the mast anchor light.

7. Getting your boat off the ground

Credit: Graham Snook

Though most of us use our anchor principally for a stop in a bay or near the shore, it does have other uses.

Kedging off – be it for a grounding or to hold your boat off a post or pontoon – is just one such use.

Anchoring is not only a skill for a peaceful night’s sleep in a quiet spot.

The technique of ‘kedging off ’ gives the spare anchor, the kedge anchor, its name.

There are two main uses.

If you’re lying alongside a harbour wall with a degree of swell giving the fenders a workout, you can pull yourself off the wall a few feet to make things a lot more comfortable.

If you have run aground on a sandbank, you can dinghy out an anchor to a point in deeper water.

Pulling against this, you should be able to winch yourself off.

To do this correctly, you should run a bridle from bow to stern and in the middle of it, or elsewhere if you want to be pulled in a diagonal direction, attach a carabiner.

Thread the bridle through the carabiner lanyard to make sure it stays where we want it, then tie a knot.

Flake the cable for the kedge anchor into a bucket and dinghy this out and drop it a suitable distance off.

Bring the end back to the boat, thread it through the gate of the carabiner and then up to a winch on the boat.

You should then be able to winch yourself away from the dock – or hopefully off your grounding spot.

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Best Sailboat Anchors of 2024

Stopping to explore nearby reefs and grab a quick bite of lunch, sailors often take for granted the safety and security an anchor provides. But if you’ve ever had to ride out a storm—or dragged anchor at night—you’ll soon learn the importance in choosing the best sailboat anchor for your vessel.

To determine how strong your anchor needs to be, we must first understand the differences between old guards versus new generations. Choosing an anchor takes many factors into consideration, some of which tailor to personal sailing habits, your vessel’s size and even the body of water you frequently sail.

While encouraging you to challenge your seafaring skills, we at The Adventure Junkies want beginner sailors and liveaboards to find safe anchorage during rough seas. Below, you’ll find a breakdown of common anchor types and when to use them.

For more of our top sailing gear recommendations, check out the Best Sailboat Winches .

QUICK ANSWER – THE BEST SAILBOAT ANCHORS

• Manson Supreme
• Manson Boss
• Rocna Original
• LEWMAR Delta Fast-Set
• LEWMAR Bruce-Style Claw
• Danforth S-600

SAILBOAT ANCHOR REVIEWS

Check out the latest price on: Amazon

BEST FOR: Sailors who anchor in all seabed types

MATERIAL: Galvanized steel

BOW ROLLER: Yes

PROS: Self-righting roll bar, new generation anchor, sets in hard and grassy seabeds, lifetime warranty

CONS: Less affordable

MANSON SUPREME

BEST FOR: Larger sailboats who sail in all types of seabeds

PROS: Self-righting, new generation anchor, narrow shank with 2 slots for day use and anchor trip

CONS: Less affordable, comparable to Rocna

MANSON BOSS

BEST FOR: Sailors who want their vessel to be both functional and aesthetically pleasing

MATERIAL: High tensile galvanized and stainless steel

PROS: Self-launching curved fixed-shank, strong surface area to hold ratio, adjustable shackle for fixed eye and sliding shank for anchor trip

CONS: Narrow shank, no self-righting roll bar

ROCNA ORIGINAL

BEST FOR: Vessels that frequent strong winds and tide shifts

PROS: New generation, self-righting roll bar design, plow-style wide fluke, sharp chisel, fits most bow rollers

CONS: More expensive than fluke-styles

BEST FOR: Vessels under 40 foot that frequent strong winds and tide shifts

PROS: Corkscrew plow design that digs deep, holds strong in every seabed condition, ballasted tip

CONS: More expensive

BEST FOR: Vessels that sail in marshy areas with grassy sea bottoms

PROS: Good for bow rollers, pivoting hinge shank, quickly resets

CONS: pinches fingers, hard setting in rocky bottoms

LEWMAR DELTA FAST-SET

BEST FOR: Vessels that sail in sand and grass

MATERIAL: Galvanized manganese steel

PROS: Performs well in grass and sand, one piece construction, performs well on bow roller

CONS: Fixed shank underperforms in mud

Check out the latest price on: West Marine

BEST FOR: Sailors who need a fast-setting anchor in mud or sandy seabeds

MATERIAL: Aluminum

PROS: Similar to Danforth, lightweight, easily stored, good hold to weight ratio, fast-setting

CONS: Does not perform well in rocky and grassy seabeds

LEWMAR BRUCE-STYLE CLAW

BEST FOR: Budget-conscious sailors with sailboats larger than 30 feet

MATERIAL: High tensile steel

PROS: No moving parts to break, lighter than plow, holds well to grass seabeds

CONS: Heavier than most anchors, low holding power, not easy to store, drags in storm conditions

DANFORTH S-600

BEST FOR: Smaller sailing vessels who sail in mud and sandy sea bottoms

BOW ROLLER: No

PROS: Good general anchor for smaller vessels, lightweight, easily stowable

CONS: Doesn’t reset well, not compatible for most bow rollers, pinches fingers

COMPARISON TABLE – THE BEST SAILBOAT ANCHORS

8 THINGS TO CONSIDER TO FIND THE BEST SAILBOAT ANCHOR

Monohull vs. multihull vessel types.

A beginner sailor might question which anchor is better for their vessel’s hull type. But to be clear–when it comes to choosing an anchor for either monohulls or multihulls (like catamarans), the type of anchor you choose depends more on your vessel’s size and weight. Vessel types are rarely–if ever–a deciding factor.

LAKES VS. COASTAL WATERWAYS

Lakes and rivers do not require the same strength you would need for coastal waters and open seas. But take your sailboat on the Great Lakes, ICW (Intracoastal Waterway) or to brave a transatlantic journey, and you’ll need something more adequate. All anchors listed here are for coastal waterways, but may also be efficient for smaller bodies of water.

CHOOSING THE CORRECT ANCHOR WEIGHT FOR VESSEL LENGTH

To choose the correct anchor weight for your vessel, you need to know your vessel’s weight and length. Always verify the anchor manufacturer’s specifications and suggested vessel length, but know the numbers are typically inflated. I suggest to always bump up to the next size and sail with a heavier anchor than your vessel requires.

CONSTRUCTION MATERIALS

Anchors are forged from a variety of materials; some metals more modern than others. Keep in mind when you purchase that manufacturers may carry anchor styles in a variety of materials.

Aluminum anchors are lightweight by comparison, but come at a cost. Less affordable than steel anchors, they are also not as strong. But sailor prefer them because–when set correctly–they have high holding power.

GALVANIZED STEEL

Galvanized steel is a very strong and inexpensive metal. This material is perfect for sailors who don’t much care how shiny their anchor appears on the bow roller. But although galvanized metal is corrosive, it can wear over some time. Be sure to look for hot-dipped galvanized steel or plan for it to be re-galvanized.

STAINLESS STEEL

If you want your anchor to appear more aesthetically pleasing, stainless steel is the material of choice. Stainless steel is also more resistant to rust and corrosion, but keep in mind it scratches easily and can make anchors more costly.

HIGH TENSILE STEEL

With nearly 3 times the holding power strength as regular steel, making most anchors with high-tensile steel relatively stronger–as long as the anchor sets well.

MANGANESE STEEL

A newer material offered for anchors is manganese steel. Manganese combines the strength of mild steels with high-impact durability for setting repeatedly in rocky seabeds.

SEABED CONDITIONS

Beneath the water’s surface, you can encounter a variety of seabeds. This is one of the most important deciding factors in choosing a sailboat anchor. For liveaboards who find themselves sailing in a variety of seabeds, a plow style anchor or scoop is universal, whereas fluke anchors are perfect for flat sands and muddy bottoms.

ROCKS, REEFS AND CORAL

Rocky seabeds can secure anchors quite well, if not a little too well. Sometimes, sailors find themselves needing to dislodge anchors which become stuck. In these cases, it’s wise to use anchors with slotted shanks, making it easier to release trip lines.

MUD, SAND AND GRASS

Muddy bottoms and sandy seabeds require fluke-style anchors with wide surface areas. And because mud can disguise underlying sediments, it also helps if the anchor can penetrate. Fortress anchors are great for these seabed conditions.

Sandy seabeds grab anchors very well, but challenges arise during shifting tides. Hinged-shank fluke anchors allow pivoting and non-hinged scoop anchors rotate under the sand.

Grass tends to be slippery, making it difficult for certain anchor types to grasp. In these seabeds, heavier anchors outperform engineered designs.

WEATHER CONDITIONS

Even if you have a nightwatch partner, sudden storms overtake vessels and send them off course. If you want to set anchor without the worry, many new generation anchors have been tested in hurricanes and outperformed old guard anchors in extreme weather.

HOW WELL DOES IT SET?

If an anchor lacks a way to position itself, it may not set as optimally as intended. You want to assure the anchor is engineered to self-right itself into position when it falls on the seabed. Anchors can set by using a combination of factors from roll bars to tip ballasts to chiseled fluke styles.

The new generation anchors are designed with roll bars, reacting to flat seabeds by self-righting and rolling itself over. Originally engineered by Rocna , the design has been further adopted by more anchor manufacturers like Manson .

TIP BALLASTS

In place of roll bars, tip ballasts are simply weighted on one end. It will naturally tilt toward the tip ballasts edge, allowing the anchor to set when it’s dragged. Anchors can have both roll bars and tip ballasts.

DOES IT MOVE WITH CURRENT & TIDE CHANGES?

One challenging skill in dropping anchor is, in fact, getting it out again to reset. With some anchors, setting it on the first try is a matter of luck, especially when you’re unsure of your seabed condition. It’s important to be able to quickly reset, or you may find yourself strapping on a wet suit and goggles to retrieve it in frigid waters.

Sailors should always carry two anchor varieties. This way, after reading a sonar signatures to determine your depth and seabed conditions, you can choose which anchor will best hold as well as the scope needed to reach.

HINGED SHANKS

Hinged shank anchors are needed for sailing in waters where there are tidal changes. If the sailboat turns about, a hinged shank can pivot itself without having to be reset. But moving parts pinch so watch those fingers!

FIXED SHANKS

Fixed shank anchors are fine anchors if you aren’t worried about tidal changes and currents. You may also rely on fixed shanks in muddy seabeds if they are also scoop-styles.

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Product Test: Heavyweight Cruising Anchors for Challenging Anchorages

Two roll-bar anchors and one bruce-style anchor face a battery of tests to see which sets the best..

One of a cruising anchors most important traits is its ability to set easily (and reset after a wind shift) in the widest possible variety of bottoms. For those who can carry extra large anchors, holding power, the normal parameter measured by anchor tests, is not as important as setting performance. Once set, an oversized anchor should easily have sufficient holding power. With that in mind, this comparison focuses not on ultimate holding power but the ability of the anchors to set quickly-even in difficult bottoms and with short scope-and to stay set when conditions change. Practical Sailor tested the rollbar-style Manson Supreme and the Rocna as well as the Bruce-inspired Manson Ray claw anchor. Testers looked at each anchors design and measurements, as well as its setting and veering performance on a frozen-sand beach covered with large rocks and on a sand/ mud beach. Practical Sailor encourages readers to weigh these results along with those of previous tests on more typical bottoms before selecting a primary anchor.

                                                          ****

Photos by Evans Starzinger

One of most significant investments a sailor can make is in ground tackle. This is especially true for cruising sailors, who inevitably find themselves needing a good nights sleep in a less-than-perfect anchorage.

In extreme conditions, the working anchor must not only have good holding power, but set quickly and perform well in a variety of bottom conditions. Most anchor makers will specify a size and weight according to the boats size, but these tend to be optimistic. For serious voyaging, the right size working anchor is generally the biggest one that your boat, equipment, and crew can comfortably handle. At the very least, you should move up one size from what the manufacturer recommends.

Practical Sailor s most recent anchor tests (both in soft mud) were of new anchors in the January 2007 issue and adjustable anchors in the October 2006 issue. These anchors were primarily aimed at boats 40 feet and under. To compare the performance of heavy-weight anchors designed for bigger cruising boats,  Practical Sailor turned to regular contributors and cruising veterans Evans Starzinger and Beth Leonard, who both have 85,000-plus bluewater miles-and plenty of experience with poor holding ground-under their belts.

Ashore and aboard their 47-foot Van de Stadt-designed sloop, Hawk , the pair spent several weeks testing three beefy, high-end anchors: the Rocna, the Manson Supreme, and the Manson Ray.

One of a cruising anchors most important traits is its ability to set easily (and reset after a wind shift) in the widest possible variety of bottoms. For those who can carry extra-large anchors, holding power, the normal parameter measured by anchor tests, is not as important as setting performance. Once set, an oversized anchor should easily have sufficient holding power.

With that in mind, this comparison focuses not on ultimate holding power but the ability of the anchors to set quickly-even in difficult bottoms and with short scope-and to stay set when conditions change. (See “How We Tested,” above.)

The evaluation was divided into two parts: beach testing and real-world comparisons in a wide range of holding grounds. This article focuses only on the beach tests, with the final long-term report coming next month in the December 2008 issue.

What We Tested

The field was limited to fixed-shank Bruce-style (claw) and roll-bar anchors from two manufacturers, Rocna Anchors and Manson Anchors. The size was specified at 110 pounds, enough heft to give Leonard and Starzinger plenty of confidence when trying to secure the 30,000-pound displacement hull in the challenging holding grounds of southern Chile.

From Manson,  Practical Sailor tested the plow-style Manson Supreme and the Bruce-inspired Manson Ray. Manson makes all of its anchors out of fabricated, high-tensile steel at its New Zealand facilities. The anchors are Lloyds Register of Shipping approved.

Similar to the Rocna, the Supreme was designed to be fast- setting and have a high holding power. Users can attach the rode either to a single hole at the end of the shank, or to a slot running its full length. The slot is meant to make it easier to back the anchor out of rock and coral seabeds. This test featured the 121-pound galvanized Supreme, but its also available in stainless, and comes in a range of weights starting at 5 pounds. Manson recommends the 60-pound Supreme for a boat the size of Hawk .

The Ray is designed as a quick-set anchor-Manson claims it will set in only the length of the anchor itself-for use in sand and mud. It closely resembles the original, highly regarded Bruce, a cast anchor made in Scotland that is no longer available. Although Manson says the Ray “is not ideal for rock,” past experience and testing bear out that Bruce-style anchors are quite versatile and can perform as well as other designs in rocky bottoms.

The Ray is available in galvanized and stainless. The galvanized Ray is fabricated, not cast, allowing for more exact measurements and consistent steel quality, according to Manson. The stainless Ray is made with 316L stainless-steel plate. For a boat Hawk s size, Manson recommended a 55-pound Ray;  Practical Sailor tested the 110-pounder.

Rocna Anchors manufactures its anchors in Canada and New Zealand and distributes them worldwide. The hot-dip galvanized Rocna, designed by Kiwi boatbuilder and cruiser Peter Smith, is touted as a fast-setting anchor. The company claims it will typically set within 3 feet.

It has all-steel construction with high-tensile steel in the shank and a small slot for attaching the rode. A stainless version of the anchor will be out this year.

The Rocna comes in a range of weights, starting at 9 pounds. The 28-pound Rocna fared well in our 2006 test (“Soft Mud Anchors $200 and Up,” April 2006). Rocna recommends about an 88-pound anchor for our test boat. The 121-pound Rocna  Practical Sailor tested is rated for a 52- to 85-foot boat, depending on displacement.

One drawback to roll-bar anchors like the Supreme and Rocna is that they can be a challenge to stow. On some bow rollers, they simply will not fit. On Hawk s twin bow roller, the roll-bar anchors prevented the use of the adjacent roller, even for simply running an extra line. Stowing them in a hatch or inside the boat can also prove difficult.

Design Analysis

Physical measurements of anchors cannot produce definitive conclusions about anchor performance, but they offer clues to likely performance in different conditions.

Our analysis found that the measurements (tip weight, total weight, blade area, etc.) of the tested anchors suggest that the Rocna and Manson Supreme should provide similar holding power when fully buried in a good bottom. (See Value Guide.)

The Ray could have an edge in setting performance and in holding power in a common type of poor bottom (thin sand over rock/coral). One note of caution is that these measurements apply only to these particular size anchors, and scale effects may change the rank order in smaller anchors.

An anchors tip weight is the percent of the anchors total weight that the tip of the anchor puts on the sea bottom when the anchor is lying on its side. (The

position the anchor normally assumes when it lands on the bottom.) This is viewed as an important factor in determining an anchors setting ability. The Ray has the heaviest tip weight of the three anchors tested.

Blade area is the surface area of the anchor blade when the anchor is completely dug in. This is considered an important factor in determining an anchors holding power. The Rocna has the largest total blade area of those anchors tested.

Tip blade area is the surface area of the first 9 inches of the blade tip. A common poor-holding bottom type has a couple inches of sand or mud over a harder rock or coral surface. According to Starzinger and Leonard, its been their experience that only the first 9 inches or so of the tip will bury in these bottoms-and often only two of the three flukes in a Bruce design-so this measurement is an indication of holding power in this sort of poor anchoring bottom. Of those tested, the Ray has the largest blade area.

Beach Test Findings

All of the anchors  Practical Sailor tested are large and of well-regarded design. Previous tests of these anchors conducted by other parties showed that all three will set easily and hold well in good sand or mud bottoms.  Practical Sailor wanted to find out how they would perform in more difficult bottom conditions.

In their many years of cruising, Starzinger and Leonard estimate that 70 to 80 percent of the anchorages where they dropped the hook had good bottoms with deep sand or mud, and the remainder posed an anchor-setting or holding challenge (rock, coral, kelp, or too small/crowded/deep for proper scope). Most sailors will encounter these extreme conditions less frequently.

Given how bad the holding conditions were during the Practical Sailor rocky-bottom, long-scope, anchor-setting test (see “How We Tested,” page 35),  expected the anchors to have difficulty setting and holding. However, all three performed quite well, setting within 11 to 13 feet and holding 1,000 pounds of load.

The Ray penetrated the rock and started digging into the sand in half the distance of the Rocna and the Supreme: The Ray dug in at 11.7 inches, while the Supreme and Rocna dug in at 31.2 inches and 35.1 inches, respectively. This is consistent with the assumptions made by analyzing the tip-weight measurements.

The Ray also took slightly less distance than the others to set and hold the 1,000-pound load, but the differences were not significant. The Ray did not roll upright, and thus only dug in one side fluke and half the main fluke, but it dug in the deepest and held the 1,000-pound load. The Rocna dug the biggest furrow.

All three of the anchors would have dug in deeper with a greater pulling force, and the holding power of all would easily have exceeded the pulling power of the windlass used in testing (3,500 pounds). A greater load would have rolled the Ray upright. Our short-scope testing (see photo, page 39) also shows that a more upward rode angle will roll the Ray upright.

Testers tried pulling several lighter anchors-an 88-pound Manson Supreme copy, 55- and 45-pound Deltas, and a 45-pound CQR-on this beach, and none dug in. They just skated over the rocks and frozen sand. This reinforced the importance of weight in challenging bottom conditions.

The roll-bar anchors  Practical Sailor tested seemed to have difficulty where there were decent size loose rocks over a hard impenetrable rock/coral surface. This was apparent in the first meter of the beach test where the roll-bar anchors hopped among the rocks before the tips managed to penetrate the frozen sand.

The Ray tends to scoop the loose rocks between two of its flukes, pile them up, and then snag a bigger rock. The Rocna and Supreme blade points will skate between the loose rocks, throwing them off to either side, until the anchor can jam on a big rock.

• Short Scope

In small, crowded, or deep anchorages, sailors occasionally have to anchor with shorter scope than they would prefer. In these situations, Leonard and Starzinger have used as little as 2:1 scope. To simulate this extreme for the evaluation, we

held a second pull test, this time on a different beach with a much-better-holding gravel and mud, using a 2:1 scope, with and without chain, and with a more upward pulling angle. We were surprised by the results.

Given the loose bottom conditions, we expected all the anchors to dig in easily and quickly. However, in the first pull, with only rope rode and no chain, only the Ray dug in. The Rocna and Supreme skated along the surface. The Rocna did dig a deeper trench than the Supreme, but neither showed any inclination to set.

In the second short-scope pull, we added 6 feet of chain to the rode. The Ray dug in almost immediately, as we had expected, but the Supreme took 6 feet to dig in, and the Rocna continued to drag. We repeated the Rocna pull three times, and it refused to bite each time.

Steve Bambury of Rocna Anchors said these results are not consistent with their experience and the results of other independent tests. He added that these have earned a solid reputation among experienced cruisers such as yacht designer and past  Practical Sailor contributor Steve Dashew.

If anchoring with short scope is unavoidable, Rocna recommends, using 3:1 scope to allow the anchor to dig in, then shorten scope as needed once the anchor has properly set.

We can conclude two things from this 2:1 scope test. First, sufficient scope and chain are critical to getting an anchor to set and hold. If you have to set with short scope, its best to do so very slowly and gently to give the anchor tip an opportunity to angle down into the bottom. Second, the Ray performs much better in short-scope conditions than either of the two roll-bar anchors, and produced a set that would have been adequate for anything less than gale conditions.

The Ray, Rocna, and Supreme are all well-made anchors, and all showed good setting ability in difficult bottom conditions in our beach testing. The performances of the Rocna and Supreme were very similar, with the edge going to the Supreme in price and short-scope situations and the Rocna in hard sand and ultimate holding.

The Ray design offers faster and deeper setting in a variety of bad bottom conditions but, based on data from other sources, it has a lower maximum holding power. The Ray does make an excellent general-purpose anchor for serious cruisers likely to encounter such challenging conditions regularly; be sure to select a size that is one or two sizes larger than the equivalent roll-bar anchor. (Note: Based on experience and anecdotal evidence theyve collected, Leonard and Starzinger believe that Bruce-style anchors effectiveness-relative to other styles-may be diminished in sizes under 44 pounds.)

The Ray is quite expensive compared to other Bruce copies, but it is noteworthy as its forged shank construction would have prevented the casting cracks that destroyed Starzinger and Leonards previous 50-kilogram original Bruce.

Based on the measurements and beach testing, our initial-and tentative-recommendations are that the  Practical Sailor Best Choice for difficult conditions (bad bottom/short scope) is the Manson Ray. The Supreme gets the Budget Buy nod as its performance was very close to the Rocna, but it is significantly less expensive.

For many, it will come down to stowage-which one will fit your bow roller or locker? In truth, you can’t go wrong with any of these big boys. While the Rocna and Manson Supremes short-scope setting ability fell short of the Ray, both have a hard-earned reputation in the field.

Practical Sailor  encourages readers to weigh these results along with those of previous tests on more typical bottoms before selecting a primary anchor.

• Large Cruising Anchors: The Big Boys Hit the Beach
• Practical Sailor Value Guide: Heavyweight Anchors
• A Closer Look

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Boat Anchoring Techniques Explained (Illustrated Guide)

The basics of anchoring in calm conditions in an anchorage with good holding aren't difficult to master, and you should start with basic anchoring techniques if you haven't read it already and practiced setting your hook.

This article is for when anchoring isn't so easy, but you still have to stop your boat and stay secure. There are several approaches you can take for anchoring in tricky bottoms, bad weather, or in other special situations where conditions are less than ideal.

Your tools are skills and equipment, and a little advance preparation can give you a lot of options.

On this page:

Solve difficult bottoms with different anchors, dealing with tough anchoring conditions, other situations that may prove difficult, special gear (how & why to use it).

We can solve most challenging bottoms with a different choice of anchor, but that's not always an option since you can't stock your bow locker with every type of anchor on the market. Most sailors have two anchors - a primary all around anchor, and a backup. When choosing your backup anchor, make sure it's different from your primary, since two anchors of the same type don't buy you anything with varying bottom conditions.

With most tricky bottoms, more scope is always better than less. So if your anchorage has the swing space, add an extra helping of rope or chain when you set.

Most difficult bottom: rocks

Rocky bottoms and solid rock are probably the most difficult anchoring, since it's nearly impossible for an anchor to cut into the bottom and set. Solid rock is trickier than a rock strewn bottom, and nearly impossible to get a good holding without a lot of weight. A spade or plow can find something to dig into with a rocky bottom, but not much can hold on solid rock.

Fisherman's anchor

The fisherman's anchor is a good choice for rocky bottoms, since it relies more on weight and catching than on digging in like fluke and spade anchors. Mushroom anchors can work, but both mushroom and fisherman's anchors must be heavy to hold, since the weight of the anchor has to do a lot of the work.

On-shore anchors

As an alternative to anchoring, consider using things on shore like trees and other fixtures with a deep water stern anchor. If you can get a stern anchor to set outside the rocks, you can run a line to shore and keep your boat in place.

Use a trip line instead

And if you know you're anchoring in rocks, consider using a trip line. Or if you have a slotted anchor shank, like you'll find on a Rocna, Manson, or other modern anchor, be sure to move the shackle there before you drop anchor - it will help you recover it and decrease your chances of getting stuck fast.

Anchors don't dig in in soft silt

Anchors tend to just sink into silt and soft mud, then drag through without digging in when you try to set them. Thick silt isn't much thicker than water at the top of it, and your anchor has nothing to catch. Anchoring in a really soft bottom requires patience, since your best technique is to let the anchor settle into the soft mud before you try to set.

Drop your anchor in the selected spot, but when you get some scope out, let it sit for a while. A long while - in some places it can take fifteen to thirty minutes for your anchor to sink through the ooze to reach med think enough to catch.

Once you're gotten your anchor nestled into the silt, try setting it gently. Idling back on it in reverse should help it catch in the thicker mud under the soft stuff. Avoid a final "hard set" with this bottom type unless you're expecting some wind.

Avoid false sets in weeds and grass

Like rock bottoms, your best choice for a weedy bottom is an anchor which works well in weeds. Some anchors can not cut through the tough mat of roots and fiber under a weed bed, or have flukes which tangle in the vegetation instead of digging in.

Roll bar anchors will work

Modern roll bar anchors do pretty well in weeds and grass, but some plow and fluke anchors can be quite difficult to set. If your primary anchor is a CQR, fluke, or other anchor known to fare poorly in grass and weeds, try another anchor if you have one.

One caution - even the best anchors for grass and weeds may "false set" on you. They can catch on the grass and weeds and feel like they've caught bottom, but if they load up or the wind shifts, you may have troubles. Take extra care to back down hard to make sure your anchor is dug into the bottom.

Avoid coral heads if you can

Coral heads or "bommies" are in tropical anchorages all over the world, and some remote atolls give you no choice but to anchor near or among them. Anchoring badly among bommies can cause a mess - your anchor chain will get snaked and wrapped through and around the coral heads. Not only is this hard to get out of, but it is terrible for the coral and you should avoid it.

Set up floats

The first thing to look for around coral heads is a large patch of clear sand to drop your anchor. It may be tough to find, but you don't want to drop your anchor on top of hard coral. You won't be likely to find enough open sand for your whole swing range, so you'll need to rig up some floats to keep your chain out of the coral.

Your goal is to get the last 1/3 of the chain to hold you on the bottom, but use your string of three or more fenders to keep the rest of the chain suspended in the water above the coral heads. Your fenders will almost completely sink while you do this, but they will keep the chain from getting tangled.

Start by making your initial drop on that patch of clear sand and let up from one third to one half your expected rode out. Then tie a fender to the chain with a stout line and let out another 1/3 of the remaining rode. Tie on another fender, and let out another 1/3 of the remaining rode. Tie on a third fender, and let out the remaining rode and snub it.

Anything which reduces visibility and hearing, adds shifting forces on the boat, or increases the loads on your anchor will add a challenge to your successful anchoring. If you plan and practice, you can get through it and get a good set.

Communication is key when you have someone on the bow and someone on the helm, and well-practiced hand signals are a must. Headsets can help, but if you use them, make sure you have hand signals to back them up.

Prepare in case of heavy weather

Anchoring in bad weather is fraught with difficulty. Driving rain cuts visibility, howling winds can make communication near impossible even with headsets, and heavy wind will drive you out of position quickly as you try to get the anchor down to the bottom.

The best first step to anchoring in bad weather is to talk your plan out ahead of time. You may have trouble communicating with the person on the bow, so if everyone on board knows the plan for anchoring, you'll do better if you can't hear each other or see hand signals. Heavy weather anchoring cuts across a lot of the tough conditions in our list, but if you're trying to escape a bad weather system, you may have little choice but to deal with it once you've ducked out of open water into a more protected anchorage.

High wind will make positioning hard

High wind causes several problems anchoring. The first is the effect on the boat - with a lot of wind, your boat's windage is much more pronounced, and as you slow down to anchor, it becomes harder to hold the boat on station and put the hook where you want it. Your bow is much more likely to fall off, and while idling into position you may even get blown to a stop or pushed backwards. If you stop, you lose the ability to steer and the wind may push you out of position.

When holding station to drop anchor, try these tips:

• Use a little more engine power and come up to your anchor drop point with a little more speed to maintain steerage. Not a lot more, but an extra knot can keep your ability to steer.
• You will blow backward quickly, so don't let the boat fall back until you've got enough rode out to hit bottom. Use small pulses of the engine forward to stay in place without overrunning the chain.
• If you have main furling, cheating a tiny amount of sail out can help keep you pointed into the wind, like an anchoring sail on your stern might. You don't want too much sail area, since it may start driving the boat forward or even cause heeling. But a small triangle can help keep the boat in irons so you aren't swinging all over as you drop.

Communication will be harder

The other complication is communication - wind won't affect your hand signals, but wind noise can mess with radios by causing a loud hiss in your microphones that drowns out voices. If you use headsets with foam wind mufflers, make sure they're installed. If you don't have them or are using handhelds, a little piece of cloth can cut that wind hissing right out. A thin sock slipped over a handheld radio looks silly, but does a great job muffling wind noise.

Low visibility requires lights or radar

You can lose your visibility in heavy rain, fog, or darkness. Your solutions for each are a little different, as is the impact.

The primary risk of using hand signals without radios is lost visibility; if you can't see the bow, you can't communicate. In darkness, the fix is easy. Make sure bow and helm people have lights, and shine them on your hands when signaling (and not in each other's eyes!). Headlamps work well for this, since helm and bow both need their hands.

Lights won't help you in driving rain or fog, there you will need to do your best with hand signals or use a waterproof radio on the bow. Fortunately, rain and fog are rarely heavy enough to block vision from the helm to the bow, but if it is talking, your plan out first is critical.

If you have radar, make sure it's on when you come into an anchorage in poor visibility, and zoom it in far enough to distinguish boats and estimate distances. While everyone should have lights, we all know there's no guarantee of it. And judging distance from anchor lights in the dark is difficult. Whether it's fog, rain, or dark, your radar can light up the boats around you and give you a clue about their relative positions as you pick your place to drop anchor.

Tidal currents may cause drag

Dropping in tidal currents isn't difficult, but staying anchored can be. A strong pull in one direction can give you a great set, but when the tide changes and starts ripping a couple of knots in the other direction, it can pull your anchor out and cause you to drag.

When anchoring in a tidal zone, always note where you are in the tidal cycle - how much time until the next high or low, and which way it's moving. For the most extreme tidal currents, consider a Bahamian Moor with your two anchors in line with the current. For more details, see our article on using two anchors .

REMEMBER - most places with tidal currents also have a pretty big tidal swing. When you figure out your scope, you need to calculate your ratio from the top of high tide, so you don't get caught up short if you anchor near low tide.

If you anchor with only one anchor, take care to set extra hard, and use extra scope if there is room. Expect your anchor to reset every tide cycle, so the extra rode will give it time to re-bury itself, or even keep it from resetting.

Avoid anchoring in deep water in bad weather

Anchoring out in deep water always feels like standing on the edge of a cliff; there was never quite enough grip to really rest or feel comfortable. But sometimes, you have no choice - it's all there is, but it may be a little nerve-wracking.

If you have an all-chain rode, you can anchor in water up to about 1/3 of your rode length in calm and settled conditions . The conditions are the key - if you can not get out enough scope for wind and weather, you should not stay in a deep anchorage if bad weather develops.

For more detail, check out our article on deep water anchoring:

How to Anchor a Boat in Deep Water (like the ocean)

Sometimes, anchoring isn't so hard, but once you get settled in, you realize things aren't as comfortable as you hoped. When we dropped anchor at Santa Cruz in the Galapagos, it was comfortable when we arrived. But a few hours later, the ocean swell started coming in, and the wind on our bow kept us pointed across the incoming rollers, resulting in a sickening side-to-side roll as the boat swung at anchor.

This is avoidable.

Roll and Chop

If you're in an anchor with a lot of roll in it, set a stern anchor to point your bow into the roll and chop instead of letting your boat swing in the breeze and roll side to side. The up and down motion is much easier on your inner ear and will let you sleep at night. Don't worry about swinging into the wind unless you're expecting bad weather. But if you're expecting bad weather, an anchorage subject to swell isn't a good place to be, anyway.

The key is to keep the roll from hitting the side of your boat and creating that horrid motion.

Tight Quarters

Anchorages can be tight in two ways - they can be crowded, or they can be small or narrow. For crowded anchorages, look at our specific advice on handling a crowd .

With a tight anchorage, you don't want to risk swinging into shallows or bumping into rocks or other hazards. Fortunately, there are a few ways to deal with this.

• Use a stern anchor
• Try a Bahamian Moor if there is room; it should keep your boat swinging on a single point.
• Tie one or more lines to shore to stop you from swinging.

The goal of these approaches is to keep your boat fixed in position or in a very limited swing radius. The best tool will depend on where you are anchoring and how much space you have with sound things to tie off to.

The market is awash with products to help you anchor more easily, but do they all work? The short answer is that some of them can help you, in some circumstances, but the effectiveness of some of them is debatable. And you can cause difficulties if you misuse them.

A kellet is a weight you attach to a midpoint in the catenary on the anchor rode. The theory is that it pulls the rode down more sharply to the bottom and gives a better angle of attack for pulling loads on the anchor shank. This is supposed to help increase holding power. Evidence and testing shows that once the wind blows hard enough to straighten out the rode, the effect of a kellet goes almost to zero for adding holding power.

That doesn't mean they have no value, especially with rope/chain combination rodes. A kellet can reduce the swinging and dancing your boat does at anchor by holding the rode down. But don't expect it to perform any miracles for you while anchored out in a forty-knot blow.

Anchor swivels eliminate twisting in the rode when you pull up the anchor. Some anchors are prone to spin like propellers when they hauled through the water, and this can put an undesirable twist in chain and rope. Too much twist can cause binding and knotting, and make pulling the anchor up in the right orientation to slide into the bow roller challenging.

If you are experience twist in your rode, look into swivels. Some manufacturers suggest them for their anchors, so heed their advice if you choose their anchors.

But an unnecessary swivel adds another weak point to your anchor rode, so if there is no need for one, don't add it. It's one more moving part to corrode, seize up, or break.

Trip lines are handy ways to get leverage on our anchor from points other than the end of the shank where the rode attaches. Many anchors provide extra loops, rings, and attachment points for a trip line, and they can be very helpful with obstructions on the bottom. Everything from rocks to discarded junk can catch on your anchor, and pulling a plow from the front may be a better way to dislodge it than hauling straight up on the shank.

You can rig trip lines with a float, or a line can be secure to the rode when the anchor is set. Either way, you need to take some care that the trip line doesn't tangle into the anchor or break loose until you need it.

Marker Floats

Marking a trip line with a float is an easy and convenient way to keep your trip line clear of the business end of the anchor, while making retrieval easier since you'll know exactly where your anchor is.

But they will make you very unpopular in a crowded anchorage, and you should only use them when there is plenty of space around you.

Remember - everyone swings together in a crowded field, and there will be times when your boat will swing right over someone else's anchor. If that anchor has a floating ball and a line on it, there's a risk it can bang your boat or get fouled on your rudder or propeller. A marker float increases how much open water you and your boat take up, and few people use them for this reason.

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How to Anchor a Sailboat

Follow These Guidelines to Anchor Safely and Securely

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The Importance of Good Anchoring Technique

Few sailing experiences are as scary as waking in the middle of the night with the wind blowing hard and your boat dragging anchor toward rocks, the shore, or another boat. And one of the most irritating things for most cruising sailors is finding another boat dragging down upon them or getting tangled in their own anchor line.

Good anchoring technique is crucial for safety. Yet all too often even some experienced sailors are in too much of a hurry and skip one of the important steps for anchoring securely. Some new sailors never learn the essentials and just toss the anchor overboard and assume they’ll be fine.

But it is not difficult to anchor correctly and securely in most conditions. Follow these guidelines to help ensure your boat is safely anchored so you can get a good night’s sleep.

1. Prepare in Advance

• Pick your anchorage carefully using an updated chart and paying attention to conditions, including wind direction and speed, likely tidal or other currents, and the forecast. Pay special attention to the chances for a shift in wind direction or speed. If your boat is pulled in the opposite direction during the night because of a reversing tidal current or wind, the anchor may be pulled out.
• The ideal anchorage area should have some protection from the wind and waves and not be against a lee shore in case the anchor drags. The ideal bottom is sand or mud, not rock or heavy seaweed or grass. Most cruising guides and some charts show good anchorages that are protected and have good holding ground. Charts also show bottom characteristics when known.
• Get the anchor ready before making your approach. Whether on a bow roller or lowered by hand from the bow, make sure the anchor rode is free to run. If the anchor rode is not marked at progressive depths with tags or color codes, stretch it out back and forth on deck so that you know how much rode you are letting out when anchoring. To be safe, plan to put out a rode about 7 times the water depth (counting the height of your bow over the water) at high tide.

2. Pick Your Spot Carefully

• After studying the chart and choosing a general protected area, look for a spot with the right depth: from a few feet deeper than the draft of your boat (at low tide) to as deep as 30-40 feet if necessary—if you have at least 200-300 feet of anchor rode.
• Make sure you are well clear of any channel regardless of how the boat swings with wind shifts, and that there are no hazards if your boat were to swing in a full circle around the anchor.
• When other boats are already anchored nearby, follow good anchoring etiquette to stay safe without risking collision or entanglement. The general rule is that the first boat in an anchorage can choose its spot at will and each subsequent boat must stay clear of others already present.
• Calculate how much swinging room you may need if the wind changes, based on how much anchor rode you will pay out according to the water depth. If possible, make sure your swinging circle does not overlap with any other boat’s swinging room.
• In a crowded anchorage where your swinging room may have to overlap another boat’s, choose a spot among similar boats. Most cruising sailboats with a keel will swing in the same direction at the same time and therefore should not collide if not positioned too close together. But a shallow-draft powerboat will swing on the wind differently from a keel sailboat, increasing the risk of collision if their swinging circles overlap.

3. Approach Slowly

• Although you can learn to anchor under sail, most cruising boats lower or furl the sails before making the approach into the anchorage, and anchor under power. Using the engine also gives you more control if a last-minute maneuver is needed.
• Approach your planned spot into the wind, keeping an eye on your depthfinder or chartplotter to ensure you are where you want to be on the chart. If there is a strong current in the area that affects the boat more than the wind, approach into the current instead.
• As you near the spot, slow down to allow the boat to coast to a stop. If you come in fast and have to use the engine in reverse to stop, there’s a good chance the boat may pivot or turn during the reversing, and the boat then will not at first pull directly back on the anchor. There’s seldom any reason to be in a hurry at this point.
• Double-check to make sure you are not too close to another boat and are at the intended depth. If you decide you need to move to either side, circle back around to make your approach again to the new spot upwind or current.

4. Lower, Don’t Drop, the Anchor

• Wait until the person at the helm says the boat has stopped completely and is starting to move backward on the wind or current before lowering the anchor. (Watch your GPS speed if you’re not sure.) If the boat is still moving ahead, you may accidentally set the anchor in the wrong direction by pulling it ahead instead of drifting back to set it.
• It is important to lower the anchor gradually to prevent the anchor rode from falling down on the anchor flukes and possibly fouling the anchor. In that case you may not realize the anchor has not set well, and if the wind comes up later the anchor can easily drag if fouled. Never just toss the anchor over hoping for the best!
• You can tell when the anchor reaches the bottom because of the reduced strain on the rode. Pause a moment to let the boat move back and pull the rode tight. If the boat is floating motionless in the absence of wind and current, tell the person at the helm to put the engine in reverse to start the boat backward. Your goal here is to align the anchor correctly on the bottom, with its shank pulled back in the direction in which the boat will lie at anchor. Otherwise, the anchor chain may foul the shank or flukes and prevent the anchor from setting well.

5. Set the Anchor

• Making sure the anchor is well set (that is, dug in well in the bottom) is the most important part of anchoring. The anchor holds the boat by digging its flukes into the bottom, not by just lying there like a weight on the bottom. If the anchor is not set, the boat may seem well anchored until the wind comes up—when the anchor will then bounce along the bottom as the boat drags toward a hazard.
• As the boat moves backwards due to wind, current, or the engine’s power in reverse, gradually pay out the rode. Always keep a light tension on the line, but don’t yet clinch it tight. (If you tighten the rode too soon, the anchor will be pulled upward and out of the bottom and will not set.)
• Visualize the anchor rode pulling straight back on the anchor shank as the point(s) of the anchor fluke(s) dig in. If your anchor rode is all chain or has a section of chain at the anchor, the pull will be more nearly horizontal along the bottom. This is how anchors are designed to dig in and hold.
• When you have about 3 times as much anchor rode out as the water depth (a scope of 3 to 1), temporarily cleat or cinch the anchor rode at the bow and let it pull tight. Keep a hand on the rode to feel the tension. The boat should stop and the rode feel very tight, indicating the anchor has set. If the anchor has not set, you will feel the tension in the rode come and go or feel its pull changing as the anchor bounces along the bottom.
• If the anchor has set, continue with the next step of paying out scope. If it has not set, you can also continue but must be very careful to ensure the anchor digs in when you have the proper scope. If the anchor has not set yet with about a 3 to 1 scope, many sailors prefer to hoist it now and try again rather than letting out more anchor rode and having to bring it all back up to try again later.

6. Pay Out the Proper Scope

• Continue paying out the rode as the boat moves backward, until you reach the desired scope. Many factors affect the scope needed, including the type of boat, the type of anchor, whether the rode is all chain or a combination of chain and line, the characteristics of the bottom, and the wind predicted.
• As a general rule, most cruisers prefer a scope of 7 to 1 for safe anchoring overnight. For a lunch stop in a calm anchorage, a scope of 5 to 1 or less may be sufficient, assuming someone stays on the boat in case the wind increases dramatically. With higher winds or big waves, a scope as high as 10 to 1 may be appropriate. Remember that the scope should be based on the high tide water depth. If you anchor at low tide in 10 feel of water and the depth 6 hours later is 20 feet, your scope then would be only half of what it was.
• Once you have the proper scope, back down hard on the anchor using the boat's engine to ensure it is well set. The rode should be very tight and not give at all while backing.
• Scope can be adjusted later if conditions change, simply by letting out more rode if desired. This increases your swinging distance, of course, so you should confirm you will remain far enough away from other boats or hazards.

7. Check the Anchor Periodically

• Even when you’re sure the anchor is well set, changing conditions can result in the anchor dragging. Before relaxing completely for the night, make sure you can tell later on if the boat is dragging.
• Your GPS or plotter can reveal changes of position, although small changes may not be noticeable or may be interpreted as just swinging in a different direction. If possible, take sightings on at least two features on shore (choose something that will be visible at night) and note the compass bearings to each. If these bearings change significantly later, you may be dragging. A smartphone or tablet app like My Anchor Watch can also help ensure you know it if your anchor is starting to drag.
• Another technique used by old-timers is to let down a small second anchor or weight from the stern just to the point where it rests on the bottom, and then drape it over the boom and dangle a noise-maker like a bucket or pot tied to the free end. If the boat moves very far, the line will pull the noisemaker over the boom to clang down into the cockpit, hopefully waking you to take action if needed!
• If you suspect you may be dragging, check the anchor rode at the bow. You may feel or see changes in its tension if the anchor is bumping over the bottom. If you have any evidence of dragging, monitor the situation very carefully. In calmer conditions the anchor may reset, but with gusty or heavy winds it will likely not dig in by itself, and you may have to hoist the anchor and move to a new position and start over.
• Finally, in an emergency situation if the anchor is dragging or a gale puts you at risk of dragging—particularly against a reef or lee shore—you can avert disaster by running the engine slowly in forward gear to take some of the strain off the anchor rode.

A common anchoring problem occurs if the anchor's flukes hook under a rock, chain, or other bottom debris and prevent the anchor from being hoisted. Try backing pulling the anchor up from the opposite direction in an attempt to free it. The best solution is to use a  trip line  or the  AnchorRescue  retrieval device to prevent the risk of losing your anchor should it become snagged.

Anchoring involves a number of skills, which improve with experience. Many books have been written on the subject, and when cruising in unfamiliar waters or far from home where you may be caught in a tricky situation, it’s a good idea to have a book on anchoring or seamanship on board to consult for appropriate techniques in unusual circumstances.

Other Articles about Anchoring

• How to Use an Anchor Trip Line
• How to Retrieve an Anchor
• Use AnchorRescue to Prevent Losing a Fouled Anchor
• Best Sailing and Boating Apps
• How to Tow a Dinghy Behind a Sailboat
• How to Raise the Mainsail
• How to Whip a Line End Using the Oldest and Best Method
• Choosing an Inboard or Outboard Engine
• The Sunfish: A Perfect Lake or Urban Sailboat
• Learn How to Sail a Small Sailboat – 1. The Parts of the Boat
• How to Tack a Sailboat
• How to Boat
• How to Gybe a Sailboat
• Using AIS on Your Sailboat
• Choosing a Centerboard or Fixed Keel Sailboat
• Correct Scope is Essential for Safe and Comfortable Anchoring
• When to Adjust Sailboat Sails for Stronger Winds
• How to Use a Sailboat's Outhaul
• The Types of Sailboat Rudders

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How to Pick a Boat Anchor: The Guide to Types, Sizes & Weights

October 20, 2023

Lakes can get choppy, and river currents can drag you along when you'd rather stay put. Having the right anchor on your boat is crucial, especially if you're busy staging for a wakeboard or ski ride .

But what type and size of anchor is best for your setup?

Types of Boat Anchors

Let's look at the most popular types of boat anchors, and look at some charts to figure out what size and weight anchor is right for you.

Fluke Anchors

Also known as a Danforth anchor, the fluke anchor is favored by lake and river boat owners for its lightweight design and excellent holding power in soft bottoms.

Fluke anchors have a rotating bar that connects the anchor to the line. Their forward-heavy profile allows the flukes to drive straight down into sand or mud. As line is laid out, the bar swivels into a horizontal position, providing good scope.

• Boat Size: 30 feet or less
• Best For: Lakes, rivers, mud and sand
• Bad For: Rocks, debris, coral, strong currents

Plow Anchors

Also called a delta anchor, the plow anchor is one of the most popular anchors on the boat market. It's simple and effective, capable of providing reliable mooring in all water conditions and most beds.

Plow anchors dig into the surface below and they provide high holding power. They set quickly, which makes them an excellent choice when strong currents and winds could otherwise quickly move your boat.

But plow anchors' large, flat fins can get stuck in debris and large rocks, so it's best to stick to softer bottoms.

• Boat Size: 70 feet or less
• Best For: Sand, mud, grass bottoms, strong winds
• Bad For: Rocky bottoms

Claw Anchors

Also known as a Bruce anchor, the claw anchor is similar to a plow anchor: It sets quickly and digs into soft bottoms, providing good holding power against currents and wind -- though not as well as a plow.

Because claw anchors use smaller pins, they're better suited in gravel and rock, affording a lower risk of catching and getting stuck where a plow anchor might get hung up.

Digger Anchors

The digger anchor excels at providing high holding power in gravel and rocky bottoms, even with strong currents and high wind. It uses a rod that partially rotates, while limiting the angle of the anchor line's scope.

As current and wind pull on the boat, the rod's limited angle pulls on the anchor's claws, pushing them further into the bottom. The digger's thin, long claws work great in virtually all bottom, including gravel and small rocks -- just avoid large debris, as the limited angle of the anchor rod prevents it from being pulled back out of a snag effectively.

• Boat Size: 40 feet or less
• Best For: Sand, mud, grass, gravel, strong winds
• Bad For: Bottoms with large debris

Navy Anchors

The classic, heavy, big navy anchor excels at providing high holding power in all waters and conditions. Its size and shape make it suitable for rocky bottoms and debris fields, as it has little risk of getting snagged.

The only problem with a navy anchor is that its benefits can become problematic for smaller vessels: Because navy anchors are large and heavy, they can be difficult to stow, and they add plenty of weight to the hull.

• Boat Size: 20+ feet
• Best For: All bottoms, currents, and weather
• Bad For: Small, light boats

Mushroom Anchors

The mushroom anchor is made for small vessels in relatively calm waters with soft bottoms. It relies on suction and sinking into sand, dirt, and mud to provide holding power. These anchors are typically found on light, electric motor-powered boats, kayaks, and dingy boats.

• Boat Size: 12 feet or less
• Best For: Soft bottoms free of rock
• Bad For: Large boats, heavy currents, rocky bottoms

River Anchors

Like the mushroom anchor, the river anchor is also intended for small vessels in lakes and rivers -- but with one exception: The river anchor works well in rocky bottoms and beds filled with debris. The wide, flat flukes work best when they can grab hold of objects on the floor. River anchors work well enough in soft bottoms, albeit with less holding power than a mushroom.

• Best For: rocky bottoms and debris fields
• Bad For: Large boats, heavy currents

Choosing The right Size Anchor

When selecting a boat anchor, it's important to consider the following factors:

The size and weight of your boat will determine the size and weight of the anchor you need. As a general rule, the heavier the boat, the larger and heavier the anchor should be.

Water and Weather

The type of weather and currents you encounter will influence your anchor choice. Different anchors perform better in different conditions, so it's important to choose one that suits your boating environment.

Conditions of Water Bed

The floor your anchor rests upon can vary wildly. Some lakes and rivers have rocky bottoms filled with debris, while others have soft silt or sand. Picking the wrong setup could mean you wind up drifting, or worse, cutting line because your anchor got stuck at the bottom.

Anchor Weight vs. Boat Size Chart

The chart above is a general guideline for selecting the appropriate anchor weight for your boat. Conditions on the water, and the weight of your boat -- regardless of its size -- could mean you need a heavier anchor.

Anchor Chain vs. Rope

When it comes to anchoring, you'd think chain is far superior to rope. But chain really only provides two advantages: It adds holding power, helping to keep your boat moored in one spot in rough water and strong currents, and it resists chafing -- it won't suffer damage from being dragged along debris and rocks.

Chain is heavy, though, so it adds weight to your craft when not being used. This isn't a concern on large, sea-going vessels. But you probably don't want that added weight when you're cruising around on the river or lake, especially when towing a wakeboard, tube, or skis.

Chain also rusts, even with regular maintenance, and it's expensive. Nowadays, synthetic anchor rope is tough and abrasion-resistant, and it withstands water and sunlight incredibly well. It's also lightweight relative to its strength, and it takes up much less space than chain.

The most effective setup combines a bit of chain near the anchor, with rope making up the rest of the line. Just a few feet of chain is needed to ensure your anchor is properly seated. This bit of chain also improves the scope of your line. "Scope?" You, say? Read on.

It's All About Scope

Rope alone will provide as much holding power as chain, so long as your scope is correct. Scope measures the ratio of the length of deployed rope (or chain) to the height from the ocean, lake, or riverbed to the anchor point on the boat.

The minimum effective scope you need to properly moor your vessel with any anchor and line is 5:1. That means if the depth from your boat's topside to the underwater floor is 5 feet, you need 25 feet of rope laid out below. This affords about 75% of the maximum holding power of your anchor and line.

A scope of 10:1, laid perfectly flat on the bed below, provides 100% holding power. Using the same 5 foot depth, you'd need 50 feet of anchor rope or chain laid out for max holding power.

Need a new anchor setup? Check out our boat anchors and anchor lines !

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