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Yacht maintenance overview: how to properly care for your yacht.

• June 7, 2021

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Additional yacht maintenance tips.

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• MTU Diesel Engines  have an extraordinary history extending as far back as 1900. MTU is now a subsidiary of Rolls Royce Power Systems. The MTU Series 4000 Diesel has accumulated over 180,000,000 hours of operation.  Their engines are developed for a world of large commercial and passenger ships.
• Caterpillar Marine Power Systems . Caterpillar Marine has the most comprehensive range of engine types in the world. CAT engines fall into several divisions including Cruisers, Fishing and Pleasure Craft. Worldwide dealer support is a powerful asset when considering engine types.
• MAN Yacht Engines . The story of MAN Engines can be charted back to 1758 when St. Antony Ironworks began operation in Oberhausen Germany. Owners of a MAN Yacht Engine must sign off on approval of their merchandise, and that is just the introduction of their superb protection.
• Cummins Marine . Worldwide support is a necessary factor when choosing your power plant. Cummins Marine is another recognizable brand that has been building marine engines since 1919. The Cummins Service Network is one of the widest in the world and extremely robust.
• Volvo Penta Marine Leisure .  Volvo Penta has carved out a vast swath of the marine propulsion industry.  While other engine builders cater to the superyacht niche, Volvo Penta delivers marine systems for yachts in the 60 to 120-foot range. The company has built up a strong group of stern-drive engines for powerboats and a series of engines for sailboats.
• Mercury Marine . Mercury is a well-known brand, and the Mercruiser line of engines are favorites on boats in the 40-foot range or less. Mercury carries a worldwide dealer network. This is a significant advantage when deciding on power. The company offers an extensive line of sterndrive and inboards. The Mercury Diesel is making inroads into larger boats and yachts.

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Exhaust and air intake, cylinder heads and blocks, electrical systems, transmissions, yacht maintenance costs, one world yacht group service & maintenance, share this article, related articles, discover more at onewater yacht group..

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85’ Ocean Alexander 2017 Sold by Tom George (SEA NOTE)

SEA NOTE, an 85’ Ocean Alexander motor yacht built in 2017, was sold by OneWater Yacht Group in St. Petersburg, Florida. Yacht broker Tom George

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My Cruiser Life Magazine

A Beginner’s Guide to Boat Maintenance – Tips to Look After Your Boat

Boat maintenance is an expansive subject. Boats are complicated, and if you’ve just bought your first boat, there’s a ton of stuff to learn. Maintenance is one of those things. No matter how long you own a boat, you’ll learn something new about maintenance tasks every year that goes by.

Table of Contents

First, create your own boat maintenance checklist, gel coat/fiberglass boat care, exterior brightwork, stainless steel fixtures and metal components, interior wood finishes, engines and daily basic boat maintenance checklist, boat bottoms, through-hulls, winterization, are boats high maintenance, how much does it cost to maintain a boat, won’t a new boat require less maintenance, can you save money by doing maintenance yourself, how often should a boat be serviced.

No general boat maintenance guide will ever be complete. Why? Because:

• There are too many different types of vessels, and they each have special needs.
• Every boat is made up of customized systems, so no two boats are exactly alike.
• Boating environments are drastically different. A boat sailed year-round in tropical salt water will be maintained differently than a boat used seasonally on a northern lake.
• Boaters use their vessels differently. A daily workboat will require a different maintenance routine than a weekend sailor. A boat kept in the water will have a different schedule than someone who keeps their boat on a trailer.
• A boater traveling far from home or into remote areas may maintain their vessel to a different degree than someone who sticks close to home.
• Boaters have different personal values when it comes to the appearance of their vessels. Some may value ease of use and reduced maintenance, while others may want glossy teak and a shiny hull — shipshape and Bristol fashion.

Let’s try to narrow down the field. The following summary of boat maintenance tips is developed with a liveaboard boat in mind. That means a vessel large enough to have basic accommodations, which is kept in the water at least most of the year. These vessels typically have an inboard boat engine and more complicated systems than trailerable boats.

Boat Maintenance Tips for Boat Owners

When you buy a new-to-you boat, the first step is to sit down and inventory all of the installed equipment. Figure out the make and model of the following items, and then go online and download that product’s owner or service manual.

Note: This is a list of common components that most liveaboard boats have, but some vessels might have more or less. Again, every boat is unique.

• Transmission
• Batteries and battery switch
• Battery charger
• Refrigerator
• Stove/oven/microwave
• Air conditioner
• GPS/Chartplotter
• Instruments (depth, wind, speed)
• Anchor windlass
• Dinghy/tender outboard motor

Once you have the manual in hand, you can flip through it and see what it says about installation and maintenance. If you didn’t install it yourself, double-check that it was done correctly. If it wasn’t, fixing it might mean less maintenance or repairs in the future.  Only the big, moving items will have published maintenance schedules. Every engine will have a detailed list. Moving parts like windlasses, winches, and perhaps autopilot drives may have some cleaning or lubrication requirements.

Take all of the data, and make yourself one master spreadsheet. List the tasks you should do monthly, seasonally, or annually. Once you’ve done that, you can start learning how to do the work or finding people who will know how to do it for you.

There are a few things that simply won’t have an owner’s manual. One of those is the boat itself. Modern boats are almost universally made of fiberglass. This material is a type of robust plastic. It is coated in a thick resin known as gel coat to protect it from UV damage. Gel coat finish is like paint in some ways, but maintaining it requires some specially know-how.

The most beneficial thing you can do to maintain your gel coat is to keep it washed, waxed, and buffed to a shine. Washing your boat with a long handled brush, soft bristle brush, lots of fresh water, and mild soap will remove salt residue and salt crystals. The wax will keep dirt and grime out. The problem with the gel coat is that it is actually porous. Once it loses its protective wax, it absorbs dirt, water, grime, and even stains. If left in a damp environment, mold and mildew can start growing inside of the gel coat. That is very hard to clean up, so it’s much better to prevent it from happening.

It is possible to bring an old dull gel coat back to a shine by compounding it. Compound is like wax, only it contains grit that removes oxidization and restores the shine. Compounding is then followed up with a thick application of standard wax. There are countless miracle cures and snake oils on the market to help you fix gel coat problems. You can spend a lot of money, but you can address most problems with high-quality compound, wax, and a stain remover. The best stain removers for fiberglass contain oxalic acid, although simple lemon juice works pretty well too.

Avoid using harsh chemicals on your boat when it is in the water since they will inevitably wash off into the water. You should always avoid bleach. You can do general cleaning with fresh water and an environmentally-friendly biodegradable boat soap available at any marine store.

Boat owners have a love/hate relationship with woodwork. Some owners value the classic look that teak gives a boat, and others would rather paint it over to avoid the work. If you look at new production boats, it’s rare to see any exterior brightwork as the later viewpoint has become more common. In truth, keeping exterior teak is an extra chore, but not an onerous one. Teak is a durable tropical hardwood, and when cared for properly, it can last decades.

You can keep raw teak clean with simple washings. Between washing, you may choose to use a teak cleaner, usually made with oxalic acid. There are many oils and protectants you can apply to help keep it clean. Left untreated, teak turns a lovely ash grey color. An extra step can be taken to add a layer of shine to the wood. This is commonly called varnishing, but there are actually many products that you can use to achieve the look. Varnish is the traditional method, but it’s a lot of work. There are other modern two-part clear coatings and easy-to-apply alternatives like Cetol that can look great and require much less work.

The key to all of these coatings is to realize that they cannot last forever. The sun will deteriorate them, and most will only last a year or so. Once the coating has begun to chip and flake off, the entire piece of teak must be stripped down bare, cleaned, and recoated. That’s a major project. The solution is to have a schedule of regular maintenance rather than repair. Every six months, you should clean the teak and apply a new top-coat of product. An easy chore every six months prevents a difficult project every year. A penny saved is a dollar earned, so to speak.

Once the wood is protected, wash it regularly with regular boat soap.

Boat canvas is made of strong UV-resistant fabrics like the Sunbrella brand. These are treated to be waterproof, and if kept up, they can last years. But all exterior canvas on a boat is a disposable item that will need to be replaced every decade or so.

You can keep canvas looking new by washing it regularly with boat soap. If your canvas no longer beads water, you can treat it with a waterproofing chemical like 303. A canvas shop can usually restitch panels when the seams begin to part. It is usually the thread that deteriorates first. Once the fibers of the fabric begin to deteriorate, the panels will need to be replaced.

Most metal that you see on boats is stainless steel or aluminum. Regular steel and many other metals will quickly rust or corrode when exposed to salt air, much less salt water. As long as stainless has a shiny finish, it should wash off with regular boat soap and be fine. If it loses its luster, it will need to be polished and protected.

Interior woodwork also needs to be cared for, but it will generally last decades since it is protected from the sun. Raw wood is commonly cleaned and treated with a simple oil, like lemon oil. Interior coatings range from traditional varnish to hard coatings like two-part polyurethane or lacquer. Interior cleaning isn’t unlike a house. You may choose to vacuum, sweep, or use a damp cloth.

All engines have lubrication requirements that should be met. Every engine has an owner’s manual and a maintenance manual laying out how to accomplish them. The list will be a little different depending on whether you have a gas or diesel engine.

Proper engine maintenance starts every time you use the boat. The manual should lay out your daily checks, and your engine checklist will usually include the following.

• Checking the engine oil level
• Checking the coolant level
• Checking the fuel filter bowl
• Checking the gear case fluid level
• Checking the belt tension
• Inspecting electrical lines
• Inspecting the general condition of the motor, especially for any oil leaks into the bilge or other suspicious signs of trouble.

Doing these tasks before every day’s adventure goes a long way. It’s a lot like medicine—finding trouble early heads of bigger problems later and saves you money in the long run. Once you’ve done these tasks a few times, you can knock them out in a few minutes.

During your daily checks, you can also notice changes as they happen. Is the oil level going down? What if the oil has turned cloudy or milky? Did the engine seem to take longer to start than it normally does? Is the transmission making an extra clicking noise? Does it burn extra fuel all of a sudden? Little things like this aren’t going to be noticed by a mechanic that comes once a year, so it’s up to you.

The owner’s manual will lay out what other maintenance is required. Oil changes and a new oil filter are typically done every 100 hours or six months. Annual servicing usually includes spark plugs for gas motors, coolant flushes, anodes, fuel filter changes, and belt adjustments. The paint on your engine helps prevent corrosion. Most engines have steel components, which will rust if exposed to salt water. If you notice chipped paint or corrosion popping up on your engine, tend to it immediately with a wire brush and some fresh paint.

These recommendations cover any engine, even those to run electrical generators.

There’s one task that has no land equivalent—the bottom. Boats that stay in the water for any length of time attract all sorts of sea critters looking for a home. Barnacles are the prime example. They form hard shells that foul the water flow over the bottom and reduce your speed. All sorts of worms, clams, plants, and algae will grow on an unattended boat bottom also.

In extreme cases, a dirty hull can be so severe that the engine will overheat when you try to go somewhere. Not only does the dirty hull require more work to push through the water, but the water intake hole for the engine can become plugged. Even moderately dirty bottoms will increase your fuel costs.

To prevent growth, boaters paint the underside of the boat with toxic paint. The most effective paints contain copper. In the old days, tall ships were plated with copper panels to prevent growth. Besides the growth, the paint on the bottom is usually applied on top of a barrier coat. The barrier coat is a hard surface that water cannot penetrate. Since gel coat is porous, it’s not the best surface to use underwater. Over time, water can enter the gel coat and fiberglass and cause osmotic blistering which requires expensive and time-consuming repairs.

No matter how good your bottom paint is, all boats need an occasional scrub. The more a boat moves, the fewer scrubs it needs. Liveaboard boats that seldom leave the dock need scrubbing more often than cruising boats that travel hundreds of miles a month.

In most areas, boat owners hire the local diver to do regular cleanings. They usually come once a month and charge between $3 and $5 per foot. Divers also help you out by inspecting everything, letting you know if you have a fishing line wrapped on your propeller shaft or a loose propeller nut.

If you’re a diver or a strong freediver, you can clean your own bottom. Use a wide plastic putty knife to scrape stuff off gently, and then buff it clean with a Scotchbrite pad. Pay particular attention to the prop and running gear, which usually foul before everything else.

Boats also need their underwater anodes inspected and replaced regularly. These are sacrificial metal tabs bolted to the prop shaft and hull (although some boats might have more). They prevent damage to other parts of the boat by decaying slowly. The science behind them is beyond the scope of this article, but they should be replaced every six months at least. A diver can do it in the water, or you can do it during a haul out.

In some areas where the boating season is short, boats are regularly hauled out for the off-season. This is a cheap and safe way to store them over winter, limiting their overall lifetime saltwater exposure.

Most bottom paints last no more than two years, which means the boat will need to be hauled out and repainted about that often. At the same time, it’s easy to do any work to the prop, shaft, rudders, anodes, or through-hulls that needs to be done.

If the work is a simple new coat of paint and the yard allows it, it’s fairly straightforward to apply another coat of bottom paint. The type you use must match the type already on the boat, though, so research carefully.

Remember that bottom paint is extremely toxic. So never sand, scrape, or paint it without taking precautions. When in doubt, have the yard do bottom paint projects for you.

Plumbing on boats is a complicated matter, but most large vessels have several pick-ups and drain below the waterline. The opening in the hull that allows the water to pass is called a through-hull, and the valve attached to it that can shut it off is called a seacock.

Any opening in the hull below the waterline should be paid extra attention to. Go around once a month and “exercise” the valves by opening and closing them. Lubricate them annually. Never force a valve—if it’s stuck, leave it stuck until your next haul out.

While you’re at it, make sure all of the hoses and hose clamps on those valves are in good condition and secure. Hoses below the waterline should use two hose clamps for extra security.

The general condition of the valve and through-hull is important, too. They should always be made of marine-grade bronze. Never use hardware store parts that use brass, which will decay quickly in the marine environment. If you see discoloration or corrosion on a through-hull, address it quickly.

A broken or damaged through-hull can sink a boat. They’re impossible to work on or replace with the boat in the water. When the boat is hauled out, make sure the through-hulls are sound and replace any that are suspect. Make sure they’re in good condition before every launch.

If you are in an area where freezing weather is expected, it can wreck your boat’s systems. Anything that has water in it can potentially freeze. When water freezes, it expands. So if that water is inside a pipe or hose, it can easily crack the hose.

Every year, boats sink because their owners did not properly winterize them. If a hose connected to a through-hull bursts, it will start leaking, and the boat might sink. Water left in the engine’s cooling system can cause expensive and catastrophic damage to the engine. It’s a costly mistake, but it’s also easily avoidable.

All systems are winterized differently, but anything that has water must be attended to. All through-hulls and seacocks, the engine, the toilet, and the refrigerator or air conditioning must be either drained completely or treated with an environmentally friendly antifreeze.

General Boat Maintenance FAQs

Boats have many systems that make them run, from their engines to underwater plumbing and electrical. In addition, liveaboard boats often have refrigeration and air conditioning systems. All of these systems are exposed to some of the most damaging and corrosive environments imaginable—doused with seawater, constantly vibrating and moving, and left outside in the sun’s damaging UV rays.

In short, yes, boats are high maintenance.

Estimating costs is nearly impossible, but over the years, some good tidbits of advice have surfaced. One commonly quoted estimate is that annual boat maintenance is usually about one-tenth the purchase price of the boat.

By that estimate, a $5,000 vessel would take about $500 per year to maintain, and a $300,000 boat would need about $30,000. That’s a dramatic difference, but the person who spent $300,000 on a boat is far more likely to hire professionals. So as radical as it seems, it usually holds true.

Another common piece of advice is to only spend half of the money you can afford to on the boat’s purchase. Then, you’ll have half left over for maintenance, repairs, upgrades, and enjoyment.

Older boats will, of course, require more upkeep than new ones. But the annual costs of keeping a vessel in seaworthy condition don’t actually vary as much as you might think. Maintenance like oil changes, washes, and waxes remain constant. Most boaters will tell you that new boats require just as much equipment, repairs, and maintenance as an older one does.

The costs to maintain your boat will vary based on several factors, including the task at hand and whether or not you’re open to doing your own work.  A common task is waxing the hull. Fiberglass requires seasonal applications of wax to maintain the outer gel coat. The less it has been waxed, the quicker the gel coat will deteriorate. At some point, the boat will have to be painted.

A few bottles of wax and an electric buffer will cost less than $250. Then, it’s up to you to wash the boat and carefully compound and wax it. How much you want it to shine is up to you and how much time you put into it. The buffer, of course, will last you more than one application. If, on the other hand, you wanted to have the work done by a professional boat detailer, you will be paying by the hour or by the foot. Many boat jobs are billed by the length of the boat. If compounding and waxing cost $25 per foot on a 40-foot boat, the total will be about $1,000.

The math is clear and simple—there’s much less cost out of pocket if you do it yourself. But this only works if you aren’t paying yourself and have nothing else you should be doing with your time. Before you go diving into a boat project, you’ve got to ask yourself, “How much is my time worth?”

A moderate-sized liveaboard vessel can easily take three or four days to compound and wax. It’s not a fun job, even in the best conditions. Add a sunburn and hot summer afternoon, and it’s downright miserable. Never underestimate the true costs of the DIY project!

Most tasks you need to complete will be every 100 operating hours or every six or twelve months. This includes engine, fiberglass, and boat systems chores. For the exact number, you should look in the owner’s or operator’s manual for each item in question.

Boat maintenance is a broad topic, and there are certainly plenty of expensive and complex items involved. The biggest thing every boat owner has to overcome is their learning curve. Even seasoned boaters experience this problem when they purchase a new-to-them boat—everything requires research, and you’re always learning.

Whether you want to DIY or hire professionals, every owner needs to be in charge of their own maintenance schedules. Know what needs to be done, when, and who is going to do it. Just like shiny teak brightwork, the chore isn’t as onerous as it seems if you stick to the schedule.

If you’re new in the world of sailing, my post on Best Boat for Beginners might interest you!

Matt has been boating around Florida for over 25 years in everything from small powerboats to large cruising catamarans. He currently lives aboard a 38-foot Cabo Rico sailboat with his wife Lucy and adventure dog Chelsea. Together, they cruise between winters in The Bahamas and summers in the Chesapeake Bay.

Basic Boat Maintenance Checklist for New Boaters

There’s nothing more disappointing to a boating family than having a mechanical issue ruin a day on the water. Fortunately, with a little basic maintenance boat owners can avoid the most-common situations that can bring an outing to an abrupt end.

Modern boats and engines are very reliable, and professional marine technicians tell us that the vast majority of engine problems today are related to fuel or the battery. Here’s how to avoid those issues.

7 Basic Boat Maintenance Tasks

• Check your batteries and battery cables before every outing.
• Use a battery maintenance charger for extended period of non-use.
• Replace your battery every four to five seasons.
• Always use fuel with no ethanol.
• Use a marine-specific fuel stabilizer to prevent oxidation and phase separation.
• Check your engine oil before every outing.
• Remove the propeller and check your propshaft a few times a season.

Explore the Complete Boat Maintenance Guide

Marine Battery Care

Before every outing check the battery (or batteries). All boat batteries should be secured in either a battery box or frame that is firmly mounted to the boat. If the battery that is not secured it could bounce around as you pound through the chop, abuse that will shorten its life.

• Check that the battery cables are tight on the battery terminals.
• Just grip the red and black battery cables and wiggle them near the terminal. They should not budge.
• A loose cable could be the only reason your engine won’t start, or can’t keep the battery charged.
• Vibration from normal use can cause the nuts holding down the cables to loosen.

If you won’t be using your boat for a week or two and your boat has a battery switch, turn it “off” to disconnect the batteries from boat systems that could drain the battery over time. Consider using a battery maintenance charger to keep the battery up to full power and ready for your next outing. A battery that’s kept fully charged will also last longer.

Expect to get four to five season of life from a good marine starting battery that has been well-maintained. When it’s time to replace the battery, only use a marine battery, never an automotive battery. Marine batteries have the correct threaded terminals and are much more rugged, and will last much longer in marine duty, than an automotive battery.

Marine Batteries: Charging, Wiring & Set Up

Fuel Systems

The advent of ethanol-blend gasoline has caused all kinds of headaches for boat owners. The best fuel choice for your boat is always going to be fuel with no ethanol at all, if that’s an option. Failing that, stick to E10 only from a busy retailer so you know it’s fresh.

Never use E15 (sometimes called Unleaded 88) or E85 fuel in a boat—it is absolutely NOT approved for use in marine engines. E15 fuel may not be compatible with plastic and rubber components in the entire boat fuel system, and it may cause corrosion of some metal components. Ethanol also raises the oxygen content of fuel. E15 can cause a lean condition and the engine may run hot and eventually fail do to excessive carbon build-up, over-heated exhaust valves and bearing failure in older two-stroke outboard engines.

Fuel Stabilizers

Use marine-specific fuel stabilizer at the correct ratio in every tank of fuel to prevent oxidation and phase separation. Modern fuel can begin to deteriorate and oxidize in as little as 15 days. This is more of an issue for older “pre-EFI” engines that have a carburetor. An EFI system is closed and under pressure when the engine is not running so fuel is not exposed to air. A carburetor is vented, however, and fuel in the float bowl will begin to oxidize, leaving behind gunky deposits that will ruin your weekend.

Checking Your Engine Oil

Marine engines operate under very tough duty, running at heavy load and high rpm almost all of the time. This is very stressful on the engine oil, so it’s a good idea to check your outboard or sterndrive engine oil level before every outing. Check your owner’s manual for details. Some engines have instructions on how to check the oil printed on a label right on the engine. Note the oil-change interval in the owner’s manual and follow that guidance, always using a quality marine engine oil , never automotive oil.

Choosing the Right Fuel & Oil for Your Marine Engine

Propeller & Propshaft Checks

Several times a season remove the propeller to check the propshaft for an accumulation of fishing line. When line is discarded or lost in the water it floats. When a boat passes over the line it can become tangled in the prop. Eventually the line can work its way into the gap between the propeller hub and the gearcase, get wrapped round the propshaft, and eat its way through the propshaft seal. This can be very bad news—if the seal fails water can enter the gearcase and cause expensive damage.

• Check your owners manual for specific instructions on removing the propeller.
• The only tool required is usually a prop wrench (or large socket and breaker bar).
• The fishing line can be imbedded in grease and hard to see.
• Use a sharp pick to look for line at the point where the propshaft goes into the gearcase.
• Pull off the line and replace the propeller.

Read Next: Boat Propellers: Repairs & Replacements

You Might Also Like:

• Boat Motor Maintenance & Engine Care
• Outboard Engine Care
• How to Winterize a Boat
• Boat Repair: Choosing a Marine Mechanic
• First Time Boat Owner's Checklist

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Complete Boat Maintenance Checklist

Boat maintenance is crucial for optimal, safe performance. Whether you have a small boat or a larger vessel, regular checks can prevent mechanical issues and guarantee a smooth boating experience with minimal risk of surprise breakdowns and other problems.

Keep reading for tips on keeping your boat in working condition with this simple boat maintenance checklist. Or download the full checklist in printable PFD format: Drive-A-Boat-USA-Boat-Maintenance-Checklist

Preventive boat maintenance guidelines

Before we get into specifics, check out this basic guide to boat maintenance that will help keep your boat in good working condition year-round.

• Use marine parts that are approved by the boat manufacturer and suited to your specific model. It can be tempting, but never use car parts on your boat!
• Store your boat in a dry location away from direct sunlight. Depending where you live, this can be indoors (which is more expensive) or outdoors. The size and model of your boat, and your budget, will also determine your choice. If your boat is stored outdoors, cover the vessel to protect it from precipitation. Boat owners should consider professional shrink-wrapping. For winter storage, some marinas offer storage with bubblers or de-icers to prevent ice formation.
• Regularly check fittings that go through your hull, such as engine ventilation equipment. See below for more engine-specific maintenance tips.
• Always keep the decks and hull of your boat clean and waxed . This not only enhances fuel efficiency but also prevents leaks and extends the lifespan of your boat. Verify that your Hull Identification Number is clearly marked and visible according to USCG guidelines.

General boat maintenance guidelines

The above suggestions are just the tip of the iceberg. For thorough boat maintenance, year-round, take time to maintain the boat exterior, boat engine, and safety equipment on a regular basis. Remember that additional seasonal maintenance is also important. 

Checklist: Boat surfaces maintenance

• Regularly clean your boat’s exterior to prevent mildew, erosion, and the spread of invasive species. Wash your boat after each outing to minimize buildup. A clean hull can save up to 30% on fuel.
• Maintaining the hull is equally important. For fiberglass hulls, wax and polish a few times a year to maintain the gel coat.
• Canvas and upholstery should be periodically cleaned with mild soap and water to prevent mildew. Avoid using strong cleaning products on vinyl and PVC.
• Verify that your boat capacity plate is easy to see and clean, so you can easily confirm whether you have an appropriate number of passengers on board. 

Checklist: Boat engine maintenance

• Consult your boat engine owner’s manual to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for oil changes . You will likely need to change the engine oil at least once per season or every 50-100 boating hours.
• Look for corrosion (rust) and oxidation . Be vigilant and take action before these escalate into significant issues.
• Before every trip , check the fuel, oil, battery power, bilge pump, water intake, hull, and propeller. After every trip , flush the engine with fresh water to prevent corrosion. 
• Stick to the manufacturer’s guidelines for checking and servicing your transmission .
• Inspect fuel lines, hoses, and electrical lines for wear, corrosion, and leaks.
• Apply lubrication to moving parts and fastenings.

Checklist: Boat safety equipment maintenance

• Before every outing, check all lifejackets on board to confirm they are still in good working condition, including life jackets for children . These may not be a part of your boat, but it is your legal responsibility to wear one while on board, making them an essential element of boating safety equipment.
• Regularly check any elements of the boat that could be implicated in a rescue , such as navigation lights , visual distress signals (including flags) and radios to confirm they are in good working order. 
• Check all other safety equipment , including boat fire extinguishers and backfire flame arrestors , ladders and ropes, and throwable PFDs to confirm they are not expired and in good condition.

Checklist: Seasonal boat maintenance

• Beginning of the boating season : Change the oil, inspect the fuel system, and check the electrical system. Clean and maintain bilge pumps, inspect safety equipment, and clean and wax the boat. Ensure your registration and boat insurance are up to date.
• At the end of the boating season: Winterize mechanical systems by draining water and adding antifreeze. Remove and store canvas and loose equipment, and clean and wax the boat. Change oil and filters, fill fuel tanks, and use stabilizing agents to prepare the boat for storage.

Boat maintenance costs

Annual maintenance costs are typically around 10% of the boat’s original price, though this can vary based on size and usage. Regular maintenance efforts are well worth it, as they can extend your boat’s lifespan and prevent unexpected issues.

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Maintaining your boat is an integral aspect of the boating experience. In fact, boat maintenance is key to minimizing the risk of breakdowns and keeping your boat running smoothly. Start a new boat maintenance schedule today! Inspect your boat surfaces, engine and safety equipment each time you go boating and at specific points during the year to stay safe out on the water.

Remember, you can learn about boat maintenance and much more by obtaining your state-approved boating license from Drive a Boat USA. Once you’ve passed our online boating exam, you’ll be certified and ready to go!

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Basics of Boat Maintenance: How To Care For Your Boat

Owning boats is much like owning cars. In many ways, the two are able to provide the same kind of enjoyment. But at the same time, they both require maintenance in order to run properly. The longer you let basic boat maintenance go, the more likely you are to have issues. Boat maintenance costs don’t have to be too expensive. But boat maintenance costs can get high if you leave things. In fact, ignoring boat maintenance is almost guaranteed to increase maintenance costs in the long run. Part of boat ownership is making sure you keep up with maintenance.

There are basic boat maintenance tips you can follow any time you head out. These will keep your boat running smoothly and safely. As well, there are boat maintenance tasks you want to accomplish seasonally.

Having a boat maintenance schedule is a good way to ensure you don’t forget what to do. It doesn’t need to be complex or very in depth, either.

Cleaning Boat Maintenance

Many boat owners don’t realize how important cleaning is to fiberglass boat maintenance. A clean boat will literally last years longer than a dirty one. It’s more than just keeping it looking nice. The gel coat on a fiberglass hull needs to be kept clean. If it stays dirty and greasy, it can oxidize. That will make it turn chalky, waxy, and ugly. In time it will weaken.

Clean the hull of your fiberglass boat on a regular basis. If you’re a real stickler as much as every four weeks is good. Try not to go longer than 12 weeks, however. Here are some boat maintenance tips for keeping it clean.

• The first step to cleaning your boat’s hull involves rinsing it down. Don’t use a high pressure hose for this. Just rinse off any algae and dirt.
• Use a boat cleaner designed specifically for cleaning boats. These will be less harsh on both the boats and the environment.
• You should use a soft, large sponge. Wash the hull with gentle, circular strokes. This is best done from the water in a dinghy.
• Scrub from bow to stern. Be careful not to ruin the paint. Rinse with fresh water when you’re done.
• Go over the boat’s hull once more with a clean sponge soaked in water. This will remove any residue.
• If your boat has a lot of hard-set grime, you may need to use some elbow grease and muratic acid. Follow the same initial procedures but use a stronger hose to help remove barnacles.
• Use a mix of muratic acid and water and spray the hull. Let it sit for two minutes until the dirt and algae is cleaned off. If it has not cleaned off, let it sit longer. This mixture can only sit for 10 to 15 minutes. No longer.
• Scrub it down with a soft bristle brush.
• Rinse the boat very thoroughly. Any leftover acid can cause corrosion.

Any dirt that allows mold and mildew to form is also bad. It can ruin upholstery, canvas, and more.

How to Clean Your Boat Upholstery

You’ll want to clean your boat upholstery at least twice a year. Good quality upholstery will already be resistant to mold, mildew and sun damage. Upholstery can be subject to fading, cracking and even bubbling if it is not maintained. Mold and mildew will make it look and smell terrible.

• Start with a soft-bristled brush. You’re going to use this to basically sweep the cracks and crevices of the upholstery. Get out any hair and crumbs.
• Mold and mildew can be easily cleaned with a simple vinegar solution. Three parts white vinegar to two parts water will do the trick. Use a spray bottle and squirt down mold and mildew. Give it several minutes to soak in.
• Use warm water to rinse everything away. A soft sponge can help wipe the surfaces as well.
• If any mold or mildew is stubborn, try using baking soda or tea tree oil. Make sure to spend extra care on the stitching.
• Use a microfiber cloth to dry up excess moisture when you’re done.
• Use a marine protection solution when you’re done. These offer UV protection to prevent your upholstery from wearing out.

Storage Boat Maintenance

Another major part of boar maintenance is the storage of the boat. Most people are not in a position to keep their boat out and in use 12 months per year. That means when boating season comes to an end you need to store it. Learning how to winterize and store your boat will ensure a long life.

During the winter you need to protect your boat from snow, from moisture, and ice. You can’t seal it airtight, either. It needs airflow to prevent mildew growth. Lines need to be clean and clear so chemicals like fuel and oil don’t degrade or destroy anything.

Depending on where you live, you can choose to store a boat several ways. The cost depends on where you live and how you store it. Boat storage fees can range from $50 per foot for the season to $200 per foot.

On the Water : If you live in a warmer climate, this is a potential option. Many harbors and marinas will allow you to keep a boat all year. This is even an option in colder climates at some harbors. De-icer technologies are used for water storage. As are devices that keep the water moving called bubblers will prevent freezing. This is often a good choice for bigger boats.

Outdoor Storage: Outdoor storage is easy and cost-effective. If you have a sailboat, you can even leave the mast up. The best way to do this is to hire a professional to shrink wrap the boat. This will ensure it receives maximum protection. At the same time it will allow the boat to breathe.

If you wish to prepare the boat yourself, you can tarp it. You need to make sure you buy a tarp that is well fitted. It can either go over the boat or, ideally, a wooden frame over the boat.

Indoor Storage: If you have the space, storing your boat in a garage is ideal. There are also storage units you can rent if it’s in your budget. These are temperature and humidity controlled to keep your boat safe. This is a more expensive option than outdoor boat storage.

How to Prepare Your Boat for Storage

You need to make sure your boat is in the best condition it can be in before it goes into storage. To start, give it a cleaning like we’ve outlined above. But after that there are some more steps to follow.

• Inspect all of the hoses. Replace any that are cracked or damaged.
• Replace your inline fuel filters.
• Clean the propeller and the propeller shaft. Lubricate it as well.
• Flush the engine and all the waterlines with fresh water.
• Remove the spark plugs and lubricate the spark plug holes.
• Fill your fuel-tank and add a stabilizing, antibacterial agent.
• Disconnect the battery. Store it in a cool, dry place to preserve the charge.
• Open faucets and valves
• Remove any carpeting and electronics
• Top up your antifreeze

Boat Motor Maintenance

Just like your car, your boat engine needs maintenance. A well maintained boat engine will last years longer than one that is ignored. You don’t need a ton of technical know-how to keep it working. Maintenance for an outboard motor may be difference than a sterndrive, so keep that in mind.

Any time you are going to head out in your boat, check a few things to keep your engine working properly.

• Give your propeller a once over. Make sure it is clear of debris. A jammed up propeller can cause engine damage.
• Check your water intake. It needs to be clean and free of debris.
• Check your fuel levels. You don’t want to let the fuel level get too low. Also make sure the vent is open.
• Make sure you’re checking for water in the fuel. This will cause damage to your engine if it’s not removed.
• Keep an eye on your spark plugs. Check the spark plugs for any corrosion or signs of being rusted out or scorched. Replace the spark plugs as needed.
• Check your fuel lines for any signs of wear. Look for cracks or other damage and replace as needed.
• Check your oil levels regularly, just like in a car.
• Your propeller and engine runs on belts. Keep an eye on them and if you see cracks, replace them.
• Keep an eye on your engine clamps. If they are getting rusty, replace them.
• Flush the motor after every trip. This clears out sand and other debris.

Salt Water Boat Maintenance

There is a difference between freshwater boat maintenance and salt water boat maintenance. Saltwater is harder on boats. It can cause corrosion and damage much faster than freshwater. For that reason, you need to wash your boat within 24 hours of being in freshwater. Salt residue can corrode boats quickly. You should flush the engine just as quickly.

Boat Maintenance Checklist

Having a boat maintenance checklist is a good idea. It allows you to get things done quickly and efficiently. It can be hard to remember every single step every time. A checklist ensures you don’t miss anything.

Inspect your Engine

• Check the fuel hoses.
• Check the engine oil levels.
• Change oil if necessary. Your owner’s manual will tell you how often this needs to be done. Most recommend every 20 hours of operation for the first 100 hours. Then every 100 hours of operation thereafter. Once a year is also fairly common.
• To change the engine oil, let your engine run for 5 to 10 minutes.
• Turn the engine off and place a container under the drain plug.
• Remove the drain plug and loose the screw above it. This will start the oil draining.
• Allow the oil to drain out for about 30 minutes.
• Once drained, replace the filter.
• Replace the drain plug and then tighten the screw again to secure it in place.
• Refill the oil tank with the correct kind of oil. Make sure it’s the right kind for your engine.
• Change the oil filter
• Check the fuel levels
• Check coolant levels
• Check power steering fluid levels
• Check belts
• Check spark plugs
• Check clamps
• Look for rust

Inspect the Battery

• Use a multimeter to check your battery’s charge. A marine battery is only meant to last 5 to 7 years under ideal circumstances. Your multimeter should read 13.2 to 13.4 volts.
• Check the connectors for corrosion.
• Clean connectors with a wire brush

Inspect the Propeller

• Look for breaks or damage like small dents
• Look for fishing line, weeds or other debris that can tie it up
• Make sure the nut is secure
• Remove the propeller nut and grease the shaft a couple of times per year.

Inspect the Bilge

• Check the bilge pumps for corrosion or damage
• Check the bilge pump hoses for debris or build up.
• Clean the bilge if necessary

Inspect the Hull

• Look around the hull for barnacles and other buildup.
• Inspect for dents, cracks and scratches.
• Check the drain plugs to make sure they are secure and in good condition.

Inspect the Electrical Lines

• Inspect wires and electrical lines
• Keep the lines clean and straight
• Use your multimeter to check electrical components

Inspect the Trailer

• Check the coupler and lubricate it to ensure proper operation.
• Check the winch and the winch strap to make sure they’re working well.
• Inspect the safety chains. Look for damage and rust.
• Make sure the tie downs and tie down eyes are secure.
• Make sure the tires are properly inflated
• Inspect tires for any wear or damage. Tighten bolts and replace any that may be missing.
• Check the electrical systems. Inspect the lights, wires, and connectors.
• Check wheel suspension and wheel bearings
• Check the boat support bunks and rollers.

Make a Boat Maintenance Schedule

Not every item of boat maintenance needs to be done every time. The checklist shows you everything. The schedule shows you when to do it.

Every Time You take Your Boat Out

These are the must do items for your boat. Skipping any of these could cost you in the long run.

• Check for hull damage
• Wash the hull and the deck of the boat
• Check the propeller for damage
• Check the bilge pump
• Check your transom mounting bolts
• Check cowl air intake. Look for and clear out blockages
• Check the battery
• Check the electrical components
• Check the steering movement
• Check the oil
• Check the fire extinguishers
• Check your safety gear to make sure it’s present and in working order
• Make sure you have your registration and other important paperwork. Also make sure it’s all up to date.

After 20 Hours of Operation

• Treat your fuel with a decarbonizer agent
• Make sure your engine is putting up the correct RPM
• Give your interior a cleaning
• Add oil if necessary
• Check the lower unit to see if there’s any water

After 50 Hours of Operation

• Inspect the fuel lines for any signs of cracking and wear. Replace them if they are looking damaged.
• Replace your fuel/water separating filter
• Clean the bilge pump and make sure the hoses are clear of debris.
• Inspect the steering system and make sure the fluid is topped up and clean. Look for any damage or leaks.
• Do a full cleaning of the deck and hull including waxing the hull.

After 100 Hours of Operation

• Have the boat inspected by a mechanic. Make sure all systems are running properly and replace anything damage or badly worn. Make sure you get your linkage checked.
• Give the rub rail an inspection. Replace or repair damage.
• Replace the power trim and tilt fluid if needed.
• Check and change gearcase and powerhead oil.
• Check the engine mounts. Replace any that are coming loose or are corroded.
• Check your bow and stern eyes and make sure the mountings are secure.
• Inspect all the bolts and fasteners. Tighten them as necessary.
• Replace your water pump impeller.
• Lubricate the boat’s grease points
• Spray down electrical with silicone spray
• Give your paint a touch up
• Check your spark plugs. Clean the plugs or plug holes with a wire brush. Replace them if necessary.
• Check the cleats. Make sure they are secure and not corroded.

Before Storage: There are some clearly defined times here that you can follow. Before putting your boat in storage, everything on the list should have been done at least once. If you’re storing the boat for winter, then you will need to winterize your boat. That can seem like a very daunting process if you’ve never done it before.

How to Winterize a Boat

The most important thing to focus on when winterizing a boa t are the systems that can hold water. If water is left to freeze in any lines, hoses or components, it could cause damage.

• Drain the engine of any water and clean it out. Flush with fresh water.
• Drain the gear case if necessary
• If you have a sterndrive engine you may need to clean off barnacles or plants
• Apply some corrosion protection to the engine.
• Change the oil and cycle some antifreeze through the manifold
• Change the transmission fluid
• Remove the spark plugs and spray fogging oil into the cylinders
• Add a fuel stabilizer to the fuel tank
• Change fuel filters and fuel/water separator
• Drain water from the plumbing system including from the head and sinks
• Once drained, add antifreeze.
• Drain water from all other systems. That includes things like a livewell, a bilge, and so on.
• Clean the bilge with soap and water. Dry it when you’re done. Spray it down with a moisture-displacing lubricant. Something like WD-40 is good. Adding some antifreeze may help prevent freezing for any water you were unable to drain.
• Take out the drain plugs from the hull.
• Remove anything of value that can be removed. Electronics, accessories, and so on. Take safety equipment like life jackets and fire extinguishers as well.
• Give the exterior a proper cleaning.
• Cover your boat with the proper fitting tarp or boat cover . Make sure there is airflow to prevent the formation of mildew when it’s in storage.

My grandfather first took me fishing when I was too young to actually hold up a rod on my own. As an avid camper, hiker, and nature enthusiast I'm always looking for a new adventure.

Categories : Boats

Robert Hogward on August 15, 2021

Hi there, Very informative post, thank you for taking the time to write this all out! Was bookmark your blog and will often come back.

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17 Must-Do Spring Boat Maintenance Tasks

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Spring commissioning is the time to ready your boat for the season — and do some chores you might not have gotten around to when you winterized.

Photo: Sea Ray

Last winter was likely a flurry of activity as you put your boat to bed, spending hours checking off every conceivable chore to make sure it was ready come spring. Or maybe, like a lot of people, you did just enough to make sure the boat wouldn't be damaged by the cold but left a few things for spring.

If so, you're in the right place. Our BoatUS Marine Insurance claims files are full of what can happen when boaters, anxious for the first outing of the year, forget to do some of the things they didn't have time for last winter. Here are the things you'll want to make sure you check before launching this spring.

How to Replace Anodes and Zincs on a Boat

Check for deteriorated anodes. They disintegrate over time and give a good indication of what would happen to vital underwater machinery if the anodes weren't there. If they're about half gone, replace them. Note: If the anode has vanished or has been reduced to powder, check the other metal underwater surfaces to ensure they didn't also suffer from galvanic corrosion. For outboards and sterndrives, if you buy the set, you'll know exactly how many need to be replaced; some of them can be hard to see. Anodes that disappear in less than a season may indicate a problem with the boat's electrical system. Look first for chafed DC wires or battery cables, which also can cause a fire. Keep in mind that corrosion is not usually covered by insurance.

Watch Video: Replace Sterndrive Anodes

Inspect props. Look for dings, pitting, and distortion that can create excessive vibration and can loosen everything from screws and bulkheads to dental fillings and can damage the transmission. Make sure cotter pins are secure. Our claims files have several (sheepish) instances of on-water towing because props fell off. Bent props, incidentally, can usually be made like new by a prop shop. Check the cutless bearing on inboard-powered boats by gripping the shaft and trying to move it from side to side within the bearing. Looseness indicates the bearing probably needs to be replaced.

Watch Video: How to Replace a Propeller

Inspect the hull for blisters and stress cracks. Blisters are easier to see just after haul out, but any you see now should be dried, sanded, and filled. Large blisters may require professional attention. Stress cracks mean something is flexing and cracking the gelcoat. Those problems may need to be addressed by a marine surveyor or repairer.

Outboards, Inboard And Sterndrives

Check lower-unit lube. Hopefully you drained and filled the lower unit lube last winter, but if not, check the lube level and condition. Milk-chocolate-looking oil indicates a bad seal that allowed water in, and if it's not replaced, your lower unit can be destroyed.

Watch Video: Change the Oil in Your Lower Unit

Replace the water pump impeller. After a couple of years, these are living on borrowed time, and when they fail, your engine will overheat, and your first spring outing might be a short one.

Check belts for tension and wear. Loose belts squeal and won't last long; worn ones can leave you stranded.

Check steering and power-trim oil levels. Low levels can cause reduced performance and damage the pumps.

Watch Video: Inspect Steering System

Inspect the outer jackets of control cables and linkages. Cracks or swelling indicate corrosion and mean the cable must be replaced. Otherwise it could fail and you can lose control of your boat. Don't try to remedy the problem by squirting lubricant into the cracks or wrapping duct tape around the outer jacket; most lubricants are incompatible with what the manufacturers used and will only make things worse.

Inspect stuffing boxes. Check the engine shaft and rudder stuffing boxes for steady leaks and looseness. Prop-shaft stuffing boxes shouldn't leak at all at rest. (Our claims-file analysis showed that leaking stuffing boxes are responsible for a significant number of sinkings.) If leaking can't be stopped by tightening the nut, repack the packing or gland. Caution: Overtightening the nut may prevent leaking underway, but it will burn out the packing material and may damage the shaft.

Watch Video: How to Replace a Stuffing Box

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Charles Fort

Contributing Editor, BoatUS Magazine

Charles Fort is BoatUS Magazine's West Coast Editor. He often writes local news items for BoatUS Magazine's Waypoints column and contributes to Reports, in-depth tech features in every issue written to help readers avoid accidental damage to their boats. He is a member of the National Association of Marine Surveyors, he's on ABYC tech committees, and has a 100-ton U.S. Coast Guard license. He lives in California.

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 Boat Maintenance Tips Essential for Every Boater In Sarasota

• Boat Maintenance
• July 7, 2023

Proper boat maintenance tips is crucial for ensuring the longevity and performance of your vessel. Whether you’re a seasoned boater or a newbie setting sail for the first time, understanding the essential maintenance tips is key to enjoying smooth and safe adventures on the water. 

In this article, we’ll provide essential boat maintenance tips that every boater should know. From routine inspections and cleaning procedures to engine maintenance and safety checks, these guidelines will help you keep your boat maintenance in top-notch condition. 

Boat Maintenance Tips Schedule Considerations

Having boat maintenance tips is crucial for its upkeep and ensuring its long-term safety and performance. Here are some key considerations to keep in mind when developing your maintenance schedule:

• Regular Inspections: Schedule routine inspections to identify any potential issues before they escalate. Inspect the hull, propellers, and other external components for damage. Check the interior for leaks, cracks, or signs of wear.
• Oil Changes: Regularly change the oil in your boat’s engine according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. It helps maintain optimal engine performance and prolongs its lifespan.
• Engine Tune-ups: Schedule periodic tune-ups to ensure your boat’s engine is running smoothly. It includes checking the ignition, fuel, and other engine components.
• Hoses and Belts: Inspect hoses and belts for signs of wear, cracks, or leaks. Replace any damaged components to prevent unexpected failures.
• Fuel Tank Cleaning: Clean your fuel tank regularly to remove sediment or debris that may clog the fuel system. Use appropriate cleaning products and follow the manufacturer’s guidelines.
• Spark Plugs and Filters: Replace spark plugs and filters as recommended by the manufacturer. It helps maintain fuel efficiency and prevents engine misfires.
• Lubrication: Apply lubrication to moving parts such as hinges, throttle cables, steering mechanisms, and trailer components. It reduces friction and prevents premature wear.
• Steering Systems: Regularly inspect and maintain the boat’s steering system, including cables, hydraulic systems, and connections. Ensure proper alignment and functionality for safe navigation.

Remember, a well-maintained boat not only ensures your safety but also saves you time and money by preventing costly breakdowns or emergency boat repair service in Sarasota . For personalized advice and guidance, it’s recommended to consult with a certified marine technician who can provide specific recommendations based on your boat’s make, model, and usage.

Regular Boat Maintenance Tips For Inspections and Repairs

Doing a boat maintenance regularly is crucial for ensuring its longevity and safe operation. Here are some boat maintenance tips to consider for maintenance:

• Visual Inspections: Regular visual inspections allow you to identify any potential issues or signs of wear and tear before they escalate. It can include checking for cracks, leaks, loose fittings, or any other visible damage.
• Fuel System: Assess the fuel system for leaks, proper fuel flow, and clean fuel filters. Ensure that all connections are secure and that the fuel lines are in good condition.
• Exhaust System: Check the exhaust system for any blockages, leaks, or loose connections. Ensure that the exhaust outlets are clear and not obstructed.
• Steering Gear: Inspect the steering system, including cables, hydraulic systems, or mechanical components, for any signs of wear, corrosion, or malfunction. Verify that the steering is responsive and smooth.
• Hull Integrity: Regularly inspect the hull for any cracks, blisters, or other damage. Pay attention to areas susceptible to wear, such as the waterline or areas in contact with the trailer.
• Electrical Systems: Check the electrical wiring, connections, and battery to ensure they are in good condition. Look for signs of corrosion, loose connections, or damaged wiring that could lead to electrical failures.

By performing these regular inspections and boat maintenance management , you can identify and address potential problems before they escalate, reducing the risk of breakdowns or costly repairs. It’s always a good idea to consult your boat’s owner’s manual or seek professional boat maintenance tips to ensure you follow your vessel’s specific boat maintenance requirements.

Storing the Boat in Winter

Winterizing your boat is crucial to protect it from the harsh conditions of winter and ensure that it remains in good shape for the next boating season. Here are some boat maintenance tips to remember when storing your boat in winter:

• Gather Winterizing Supplies: Before you begin the winterizing process, ensure you have all the necessary supplies, such as fuel stabilizers, antifreeze, lubricants, and cleaning products. It will make the process more productive.
• Inspect and Repair: Thoroughly inspect your boat, including the engines, electrical systems, and other components. Repair or replace any deteriorated or worn-out parts. Taking care of any issues now can prevent further damage and save you time and money in the long run.
• Choose a Secure Storage Location: Find a secure storage location for your boat, preferably indoors. If indoor storage is not available, choose an area with adequate shade protection from direct sunlight. Excessive heat can cause materials to crack or warp.
• Protect Metal Surfaces: Cover any exposed metal surfaces with a tarp or plastic sheeting to prevent rusting during the winter months. It is especially important if your boat will be exposed to moisture or snow.
• Remove Batteries: If possible, remove batteries from equipment such as radios or GPS units before storing them for an extended period. It helps prevent unnecessary battery drainage and potential damage.
• Follow the Manufacturer’s Instructions: Refer to your boat’s owner’s manual for specific winterizing instructions. Different boats may have different requirements, so following the manufacturer’s recommendations is important.

By following these winter storage boat maintenance tips, you can ensure that your boat preserves good condition and is ready to hit the water again when warmer temperatures return.

Choosing the Right Supplies and Equipment

Choosing the right supplies and equipment for boat maintenance tips is crucial to keeping your vessel in good condition. Here are some important variables to factor in:

• Cleaning Products: Select cleaning products that are specifically designed for marine use. Look for effective products that remove saltwater residue, algae, and other common contaminants. Be mindful of the environmental impact of the cleaning products you choose and opt for eco-friendly options whenever possible.
• Marine Environment: Consider the marine environment in which your boat operates. If you frequently navigate saltwater, choose products specifically formulated to withstand the corrosive impact of salt. Similarly, if you boat in freshwater, you may have different requirements for cleaning and maintenance.
• Quality and Reliability: Invest in high-quality supplies and equipment known for their reliability and low maintenance costs . While they may be pricier upfront, they often offer better performance and durability, saving you money in the long run. Research reputable brands and review product reviews to ensure you choose reliable options.
• Safety Considerations: When selecting supplies and equipment, prioritize safety. Ensure that any products you use suit your specific boat and its components. Follow safety standards and instructions provided by manufacturers. If you’re unsure about any aspect of boat maintenance or equipment selection, consult a professional or seek guidance from experienced boaters.

Remember, proper boat maintenance tips and choosing the right supplies and equipment go hand in hand with keeping your vessel in excellent condition. By investing time and effort into these considerations, you can enjoy many years of safe and trouble-free boating.

The Bottom Line

Proper boat maintenance tips is essential for every boater. We cannot emphasize enough the importance of regular inspections and repairs, as well as choosing the right supplies and equipment. Additionally, it’s important to keep a maintenance schedule in mind to stay on top of any necessary procedures or repairs.

When storing your boat in winter, one boat maintenance tips is taking extra precautions, such as using shrink wrap if needed and removing all electronics from the boat. It will help protect your vessel during those harsh months when no one is out sailing.

If you want to ensure your boat stays in top shape, contact us at The Boat Concierge today. We offer expert boat maintenance tips and services and the right supplies to keep you enjoying the water worry-free.

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7 Essential Tips to Protect Your Beloved Boat From a Sarasota Florida Storm

Florida is a haven for boating enthusiasts, with its stunning coastline and numerous waterways that beckon sailors year-round. However, this idyllic boating destination is also

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Boat Maintenance Checklist For Beginners (30 Important Steps)

Boat maintenance is crucial to keeping your boat in good working order.

One problem for new boat owners is not knowing how to maintain their new purchase.

This guide will help you take care of your boat to extend the lifespan of the boat. It will also help to ensure that you do not encounter any issues out on the water.

Table of Contents

If you winterize your boat, you will want to make sure you run through this checklist every new boating season.

The Engine (7 Things To Check)

Perhaps the most crucial part of your boat is the engine. Engine failure out on the water can be dangerous and hard to deal with. It is much better to prepare your engine on land when necessary repairs are easier, and parts will be accessible.

I myself have been on a boat that was not properly serviced before departure, and we stalled out in the water without the ability to get back on our own.

This can be scary and is completely preventable with proper care and attention.

Here are all the things that need to be done or checked with your engines:

• Replace engine fluids and filters at least annually, no matter the condition.
• Inspect all cooling system hoses and clamps.  Make sure to replace when necessary.
• Inspect the fuel system. Check all fuel hoses. Look for leaks or damage. Replace anything that is not in top condition. Damage can include softness, brittleness, or cracks.
• Ensure exhaust and ventilation systems are working properly.
• Inspect the raw water pump; the rubber impeller should be replaced annually.
• Inspect all engine cables, hoses, and everything else connected to the engine.
• Inspect and clean off your spark plugs (on gas engines.) Make sure to replace when necessary.

Electrical Parts (6 Things To Check)

Almost just as important as the engine is the electrical system parts. The electrical system can be difficult to maintain after you have already set off.

You will also want to make sure you do not wear down the battery by leaving the lights, radio, or other electrical on for too long without the engine running. Just like it would in your car, this can cause the battery to die.

If your battery dies while you are out on the water, it can be challenging to find someone to help you jump it.

For the electrical system, you will want to check the following:

• Inspect the battery condition and the battery cable connection to the engine. Make sure there are no signs of corrosion. Clean or replace if necessary.
• Check battery switches. These can wear out. Replace if necessary.
• Inspect the breaker, fuses, and other components for corrosion. Replace if needed.
• Check all lights. These can be necessary at night, and you can even get in trouble without properly functioning lights at night.
• Check all other electrical devices used on the boat, especially any bilge pumps. Replace if needed.
• Make sure you have the proper jumper cables for possible emergencies.

Steering system and Thru-hulls (5 Things To Check)

Like the other parts of the boat, you will want to make sure that the steering system is functioning properly while still on land (or at the dock.)  Any thru-hull fittings should be checked and maintained.

If you launch your boat and then find out that you have no steering, it cannot be easy to remedy the situation while you are out on the water.   A failing through-hull component can sink a boat quickly.

Steering and thru-hull things to check include:

• Check the hydraulic steering systems, including an inspection of the fluid level. Check the hoses and connections for leaking. Replace as needed.
• Check the condition of the steering cables. Replace any frayed cables.
• Make sure the steering system is functioning properly, grease if needed.
• Check the condition of the rudder or outboard bearings.
• Inspect all through-hull fittings and valves.  The fittings must be secure, the valves must operate, and the hoses and clamps must be in good condition.

Motor, Propeller & Hull (7 Things To Check)

You need to make sure you inspect all your major boat operating components. All boat systems take a beating while on the water, and most people close the season down with the plan to “replace that next year.”

If that describes you, you will want to make sure that you don’t forget and actually replace it before you go back out.

This includes the motor, propeller, and hull of your boat. If these are not in top condition, it can cause issues later, hopefully not when you are out on the water.

Boat component maintenance includes:

• Inspect propellers. Make sure they are not dinged, cracked, bent, or otherwise damaged.
• Make sure the propeller is secured properly. Replace bearings when needed.
• Make sure the hull doesn’t have any cracks, blisters, or distortions. Clean the hull before you set out for the season.
• Apply any anti-fouling paint as required before you launch.
• Make sure you replace any pumps, switches, or other components that aren’t working before you launch.
• Make sure your anchor is in good condition as well as it’s “rode” (the rope or chain attached).
• Inspect all other areas for cracks, especially where things are attached or welded.

Safety Equipment (5 Things To Check)

You might not think of safety equipment as part of your boat itself or needing maintenance, but they are just as important as boat maintenance.

It is the law that all your safety equipment be present and in good working condition. If it is not, you could incur fines or other consequences.

The safety equipment checks should be as follows:

• Ensure all life jackets are in the proper condition and that there is one for every person on board. This is the law.
• Make sure your fire extinguisher(s) is the proper one for your boat and that it is stored and charged.
• Make sure you have a carbon monoxide detector for all enclosed spaces that your vessel might have.
• Make sure you have a basic first aid kit on board that is properly stocked.
• Ensure that you have a properly working emergency signal kit that includes a flare gun.

Additional Maintenance That Could be Needed

Every boat is different. This means that boat maintenance is different depending on what type of boat you own.

Below are some possible maintenance items you might have that are not true of all vessels.

Some possible maintenance needed could be:

• If you have a sailboat, make sure your lines, sails, and all additional equipment is in proper working order. Check for tears, frays, or other structural damage to your equipment.
• If your boat has any wood, no matter the amount, make sure you treat it and clean it. Even wood trim needs to be taken care of. This will help maintain the wood and keep your boat looking like new.
• Vacuum any carpet and wipe down all seating and surface areas.

Maintenance Steps to do Regularly

It is essential to keep your boat in good condition that you keep up on all maintenance needed.

Some maintenance will need to be done more than once a season. This will make sure that you have less to do when it comes time to winterize or store your boat.

This also will help to make sure your boat stays nice throughout the entire boating season.

Some Regular Maintenance Includes:

• This is even more important if you go boating in saltwater. If you are boating in saltwater, you should wash your boat with fresh water every outing. Saltwater can corrode your boat’s metal and can damage your fiberglass if left on too long. You also want to clean and wash the interior regularly to maintain good condition.
• Algae and other growth can damage your hull.
• This is easy and can be done at home with the proper tools.
• If you don’t have to change it, you also want to make sure that there is still the proper oil amount in your engine.
• Shallow water, rocks, trees, and other objects can damage your propeller, and you might not even know.
• A damaged propeller can damage other parts of the propulsion system.
• Even small damage can cause excessive fuel use, steering or other performance issues, or further damage.
• Regularly applied waterproof grease or another product is also a good idea, so the propeller doesn’t corrode and perform poorly.
• This might seem like a no-brainer, but it can be easily overlooked.
• It is always required to have one for everyone.

10 Extra Maintenance Tips When Winterizing Your Boat:

If you do not live somewhere warm all year long, you will most likely have to winterize your boat.

This will prevent damage to your boat during the cold winter months.

During the winter, your boat should be out of the water in a storage area.

Ideally, your boat should be stored in a climate-controlled building, but this is not always a possibility.

If you can’t afford a climate-controlled storage area, you can use shrink-wrapping on your boat. This can help with protection but can also be costly.

No matter what you can afford, your boat should be properly covered and stored.

The best thing to do before you start winterizing is to check your manual. Most manuals will come with recommendations for winterizing your particular model.

The steps for winterizing your boat are as follows:

• Change the oil. It Is best if the engine is slightly warm to allow it to drain better. While doing this, you should also change the oil filter.
• Flush the engine with non-toxic antifreeze.
• Change your transmission fluid.
• Winterizing your fuel varies depending on your vessel. Some manuals suggest filling the tank and adding a stabilizer, and some advise adding a stabilizer to what is already there.
• Thoroughly clean your interior so no dirt or grime sits on your interior that could cause stains or other deterioration.
• Make sure your hull and all other aspects do not have barnacles, algae, or other growth. It is recommended to pressure wash and wax the hull.
• Check the hull for any cracks, blisters, or breakage. If you see anything, it should be taken care of immediately.
• Remove any possible food or other perishables from the boat before covering.
• It may also be beneficial to remove any sensitive technology if you are not storing your boat in a temperature-controlled facility. Overly cold or hot temperatures can decrease the lifespan of your electronics.
• Properly cover and store your boat in a shelter.

The proper winterization and storage of your boat can extend its lifespan, preserve its condition, and keep it running smoother for longer.

What Else Do I Need To Know About Maintenance?

It is important to keep up on your boat maintenance. A boat is a large investment, and you want to make sure that you protect that investment.

While this guide is important and covers what you need to know, you should also check your boat’s manual for the manufacturer’s suggestions.

They may have more specialized or specific instructions for your particular boat.

It is also beneficial to check the owner’s manuals for all the equipment you purchase for your boat. This can include warranties or care instructions that will help you maintain your purchases’ integrity and life.

The major thing to keep in mind is that you need to maintain constant vigilance and upkeep. Something as simple as not regularly washing your hull, keeping up on your propeller, or any other oversights can cause problems to your boat later.

Cleaning is also important. If you ever decide to sell your boat, you will better off the nicer your boat looks. With proper cleaning, waxing, shining, and upkeep, you will be sure to get more money than you would if it looks deteriorated, torn up, or damaged.

Owning a boat is an investment of time, money, and hard work. Most boat owners know this going in and do not want to try and restore or fix up a boat that has not been properly cared for in the past.

As someone who has previously purchased a boat, I can tell you that as a potential shopper, if I see the outside is not maintained, I worry for the engine’s integrity.

Boat maintenance is an investment that is worth making!

Maintenance Costs You Should Expect

There are a lot of costs associated with boat ownership that goes beyond the purchase price.

These costs include maintenance, gas, safety equipment, storage, and winterizing costs.

Maintenance costs average around 10% of the purchase price per year. This includes cleaning, waxing, painting, new filters, and other regular replacements.

The cost could go up for every non-regular object that needs to be replaced.  On boats kept in water, there are anti-fouling paint and dockage fees.

Maintenance costs can vary highly depending on the type of the boat, the boat’s age, and the boat’s condition.

We have written an extensive guide with prices on boat detailing . It’s a great resource to check out if you feel like you should leave the professionals’ job.

Sailboats will accrue more costs because you will need to maintain the sails, lines, and related items regularly.

Gas And Fuel

Gas is a fairly regular expense that is necessary for the enjoyment of your boat.

You will also need to plan for where you buy your gas. As a long-time boater, I can tell you that what you would pay at a marina is much higher than at a gas station.

If you don’t plan on driving to buy your gas and instead choose to go to a marina, make sure you are prepared for the upcharge you will get for the convenience.

Safety Equipment

Replacing, recharging, or the initial purchase of safety equipment can also add up.

Life jackets can be as low as $30, or they can be over $100. If you need one for every person on board, this can quickly add up.

Life jackets will most likely not need replacing every year, but they will eventually need to be replaced. The integrity of a life jacket should not be compromised, or it may not work when needed.

It is also likely that you will need to replace them if you have children who are growing. Lifejackets need to be compatible with the weight of the wearer.

Storage & Docking

Storing or docking your boat can also come with a cost.

Popular marinas often charge high fees to keep a boat there. This can vary greatly depending on location and marina.

It would be best if you also thought about winter storage costs.

If you don’t have storage yourself, you will most likely have to rent something.

This can vary as well depending on whether you opt to rent climate-controlled storage or outside storage and how you cover your boat, such as shrink-wrapping.

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Complete DIY Boat Maintenance Guide For Beginners

Now that I’m a boat owner, I’m starting to learn that it’s not just all fun all of the time. Every boat requires some maintenance to ensure it’s running correctly and many of those things you can do yourself . I put together a list of items you should be checking and doing to help prolong the health of your boat and make each outing more enjoyable.

Basic Boat Maintenance Tips

Regularly cleaning your boat will help prolong the boats finish and help protect the metals from corrosion, but it will also help you save money in fuel. A dirty hull could add as much as 30% to your fuel costs.

• Fill bucket 3/4 full with fresh, clean water. Add 1/4 cup of soap.
• Wet cloth or sponge, and wipe down seats in a circular motion. Don’t pool water in the seat.
• Have a separate bucket of fresh water, use this to dampen a cloth and wipe away soap residue in a circular motion.
• Use a soft dry cloth to wipe down and dry the seats.

At least once a week you should apply a UV inhibitor product to your seats to prevent them from shading or to crack, caused by harmful UV rays. A recommended product for vinyl, Plexiglas, carbon fiber, rubber, plastics, and finished leather is the 303 Marine Aerospace Protectant .  Not only does the product work great in protecting the seats, but it doesn’t leave an oily feel behind. I wrote an article on seat care and repair here .

• Spray on the UV protector product, after you’ve correctly  cleaned your seats.
• Take a soft dry cloth and wipe the seat down rubbing in the protector.
• Check the hoses and make sure they are not starting to crack. If you notice a hose beginning to crack, you should replace it right away. A cracked hose could start leaking.
• Lubricate all moving parts with an anti-corrosive.
• Look for corrosion on fuel lines and clamps.
• Check to make sure the outboard motor is still secure to the transom by tightening the bolts.
• Storage compartments should be emptied and scrubbed down with a biodegradable solution such as Star Brite Sea Safe Biodegradable Boat Wash Soap .
• Vacuum floors and in between tight spots.
• If you have a marine-grade, snap-on carpet, then remove it, bang it off away from the boat, and vacuum the flooring under it. You’d be surprised at how easy dirt and crumbs can build up under this type of flooring.
• Wipe down the console and everything else in the side of the boat.

A few times per year you should be removing the propeller completely to grease the shaft, and make sure you don’t have any fishing line or other debris wrapped around it. If you do find a fishing line wrapped around the shaft, you should take the motor to a dealer and have them inspect the gear-case, because a fishing line can cause gear-case leaks, which is not a job you should try doing on your own. Removing or changing a propeller is reasonably at, and takes hardly any time with the right tools. I wrote an entire article on it to help make it easy for you.

A regular lead-acid battery will typically last about 3 to 5 years. Batteries come with a 3-year warranty because that’s about how long they are expected to last.

While you are checking the battery, also take a look at the connections and make sure there is no corrosion. You can take a wire brush to clean the connectors.

Unhook the hoses and make sure they are free from any debris that might be clogging it.

It is recommended that you have a secondary bilge pump in case the primary pump fails. Bilge pumps are not very expensive and are a crucial part of your ship ( Check Amazon for the current prices ).

• Clean off any dirt or debris build-up found on the lines.
• Check to make sure everything is working correctly.
• Use a digital multi-meter to check the health of the lines.
• Start the engine and warm it up for about 7 to 8 minutes.
• Turn off the engine.
• Place a container under the drain plug area.
• Remove the drain plug, then unloosen the screw above.
• Remove the old oil by letting it sit for about 30 minutes.
• While you are waiting for the oil to drain, change the oil filter.
• Replace the drain plug once all of the oil has emptied out, and tighten the screw above.
• Fill the engine with marine grade oil.

How Often Do You Need to Change the Oil in a Boat?

A diesel engine is much different and a lot harder on the lubrication. It is recommended that you change the oil on a diesel engine around 50 hours. Of course, you can change it sooner, to help prolong the health of the engine. Sailors should change the oil in much shorter intervals since they only tend to use the engine for an hour or two during a typical outing.

At the end of every season, you should flush out the oil during your winterization process. I wrote an article called Everything you need to know for winterizing a boat , that I am sure you’ll find helpful.

Boat Maintenance After Saltwater Exposure

If you run your boat in saltwater, there are two very important things you should do right away, or at least within a 24 hour period at the latest.

• It is important that you thoroughly rinse off your boat with fresh water to remove salt residue. Salt that is left too long will begin to corrode metal, fasteners, and any other hardware.
• Keep the engine pointing down, in an upright position.
• Remove the plug on the easy hose adaptor.
• Screw on and attach a water hose, connected to your fresh water supply.
• Turn on the water and let it flush out the system for about 5 minutes.
• When you are done, remove the hose, reconnect the plug to the easy hose adaptor.

Important: Do NOT start or run the motor while you are flushing the engine. This type of motor while hooked up a hose adaptor is not meant to be running during the flushing process.

• Connect the Five Oceans Universal Outboard Motor Flusher to a garden hose, attached to your fresh water supply. Then slide it in from the back of the propeller so the “ear muffs” are covering the intake holes.
• Turn on the water and make sure the motor is getting enough water. To do this, check on either side of the engine and make sure the water is pouring out from around both “earmuffs”.
• Now start the motor. Take a look at the telltale and make sure it’s spraying out water. That will tell you that the engine is getting water from your watering supply.
• Let’s the motor and water run for about 5 minutes.
• After 5 minutes, turn off the motor, and then turn off the water.

Important: Do NOT walk away from your motor while it is running. As the engine runs, it will create vibrations that will slowly wiggle the Five Oceans Universal Outboard Motor Flusher away from the holes. When this happens, simply reposition them over the holes and let it continue flushing.

Flushing an inboard boat engine: Flushing an inboard engine is relatively easy to do. There’s a product called Redneck Convent Boat Motor Flusher that looks like a toilet plunger and covers the intake hole nicely.

• Using a fresh water supply, hook up a hose to the Redneck Convent Boat Motor Flusher and place it over the water intake hole.
• Fully, turn on the water and let it flow into the intake hole.
• Turn on your engine.
• While it idles, clean, fresh water will be pumped through the engine.
• Keep an eye on the water flowing out. When the water comes out clear, your engine is clean.
• Turn off the boat.
• Turn off the fresh water supply, and remove the hose from the water intake.

Important: While running your engine, make sure it is in idle only, and that it is getting a steady stream of water through the water intake. Never run your engine dry without water.

Basic Boat Trailer Maintenance

Let’s face it, without the trailer you might not be able to take your boat anywhere. That’s why you should also perform some regular checks on the trailer now and then during the regular season. Paying attention to these basic points below will pay off in the long run.

• Check the tire treads to make sure they are not worn out too low, or unevenly worn. Make sure there are no cracks in the side walls.
• Check the air pressure in the tires.
• Check the wheel hubs lubricant level and refill when necessary. At least once per year you should check the bearing grease for any contamination and replaced if necessary. Check with your owner manual about wheel bearing service.
• Check the coupler and make sure it’s working correctly, and there is no damage to it. Lubricate with a little bit of grease when needed, and confirm that the coupler latch is tight on the hitch ball when connecting.
• Check the lights on the trailer and make sure they are working correctly. Replace bulbs if necessary. Inspect the lenses for cracks.
• Spray contact spray in the connections running from your tow vehicle to the trailer. This will keep the connection strong, and prevent corrosion.

Recommended

Everything You Need To Know For Winterizing a Boat

DIY – Remove and Change a Boat Propeller Quick and Easy

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Boat Maintenance Checklist

Use this handy checklist for boats/yachts before getting back on the water.

Boat maintenance is a key part of keeping your boat cruising smoothly for optimal enjoyment, safety and resale value. At Van Isle Marina, we know there’s a lot to think about when it comes to maintaining your boat. This is why we’ve created this handy cheat sheet for the care and keeping of your boat.

It’s a good idea to go through this boat maintenance checklist at the end of the season. This will give you plenty of time to schedule the required boat repairs and maintenance during the low season.

Completing all the maintenance needed for your vessel will make it easy to be out on the water as soon as the cruising season begins.

Boat Mechanics

To ensure a smooth trip, take the time to inspect the engine and all its parts. Replace items as needed to ensure your boat is in good working order.

• Check the engine and operating temperature
• Check propeller for any damage
• Test steering for any leaks
• Check transom mount (if using an outboard)
• Check fuel lines for weak points or leaks
• Do an oil change
• Check spark plugs
• Check fluid levels
• Check gearcase for water
• Check belts, cables and hoses
• Lubricate fittings (where required)

Boat’s Electrical Systems

Because your boat experiences a lot of vibration and hull flex, it’s important to properly troubleshoot and maintain electrical components.

• Check battery charge level
• Check battery connections and cables
• Look for any acid leaks around terminals and clean as needed
• Replace battery if needed
• Check and/or replace interior and exterior lighting and wiring

Hull of the Boat

As the watertight part of the boat, the hull maintains the structural integrity of the boat, protecting the cabin, cargo, engines and all other components. That’s why hull maintenance is crucial.

• Check for any signs of leaks
• Check for cracks or stressed areas
• Check thru-hulls for rust
• Check stringers
• Wash with a pH balanced soap
• Wax or paint hull

Boat’s Electronics

Not to be confused with electrical systems, the onboard electronics of the boat let you navigate and communicate effectively.

• Check wiring for any corrosion
• Check voltage levels
• Update firmware to latest version

Boat’s HVAC System

Ready access to water as well as reliable heating and air conditioning are essential to an enjoyable trip out on your boat.

• Check and refill water tank
• Check the drain for clogs
• Check for condensate in pan under evaporator
• Clean air filters and raw water strainer
• Reverse cycle the system to make sure heating is available
• Check the water pump impeller and condenser coil for any build-up

Upholstery and Canvas on Board

Seasonal maintenance is needed to preserve and extend the life of the on-board upholstery and covers.

• Check for mould and mildew – clean as needed with vinegar solution
• Remove and wash canvas
• Check for waterproofing – reapply waterproofing spray if needed

Safety Equipment on Board your Boat

Ensure your safety equipment is in good working condition and within the expiry date. Replace anything that has expired or is in poor condition.

• Check flare(s)
• Check fire extinguisher
• Inspect lifejackets for tears or missing parts
• Inspect and restock first aid kit
• Check flashlight and batteries
• Check and refill spare gas can
• Check EPIRB (Emergency Positioning Indicating Radio Beacon)
• Check tender for damage
• Check paddles and outboard motor on tender

Click here to download our boat maintenance checklist as a PDF.

Getting ready to get back out on the water this spring? Come and see us first. At Van Isle Marina, we’re a one-stop shop for all your cruising needs, from oils and additives to charts and tackle. We offer a great marine fuel discount program for recreational and commercial vessels. Enjoy full-service assistance with dock lines and fueling from our marine gas station team. We’re open 8 :00 AM – 4:00 PM daily (winter) and 8:00 AM – 8:00 PM daily (summer) and we look forward to seeing you in beautiful Sidney, BC. Contact us anytime for a service request for moorage, haul out, dry land storage and more.

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2320 Harbour Road, Sidney, British Columbia V8L 2P6 [email protected]

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Essential Maintenance and Repair Skills for Cruisers

Published on August 21, 2024 ; last updated on August 20, 2024 by Carolyn Shearlock

Every cruiser has varied talents. But there are some essential repair skills for cruisers to know. At least if they want to stay safe and keep their budget intact.

In homes and cars, we usually have the option of calling for repair if we just don’t feel like tackling a particular chore. Unfortunately we can’t always do that with boats – it might take too long or there simply may be no tow or mechanic available. 

The good news is that the most likely problems aren’t that hard to solve yourself, even if you think you’re “not very mechanical.” My favorite way of learning new skills is to ask an experienced boater to help you (don’t just watch them; be sure to do it yourself too); otherwise, YouTube and owners’ groups are good resources. 

Crucial DIY Repair Skills for Cruisers

Based on our 17 years of cruising, here are my recommendations of things to learn to keep you going when there’s no one to turn to: 

• manually trigger float switch if pump does not come on automatically 
• clear any blockages 

Electrical System

• add water to batteries (if your batteries require water) 
• use house bank (or other alternative) to start engine/generator if start batteries have been accidentally depleted 
• use multimeter to see if there is power to any item and then track down where the problem is 
• check and change a fuse 
• splice and reconnect wires (IMPORTANT: only work on 12v systems unless you’re trained on higher voltages; higher voltages can kill) 

Engine/Generator 

• check and top up fluids (oil, transmission fluid, coolant) 
• change alternator belt (it usually also drives the engine cooling pump so you can’t run without it) 
• change impeller 
• change Racor and other fuel filters 
• clear if line catches on prop 

This includes thru-hulls for engine cooling water, watermaker, washdown pump, air conditioning, others.

• where located and how to close 
• clean strainers ( read more ) 
• clear blockage (sea grass and plastic bags are the most common culprits) 
• change tank 
• bypass solenoid (it’s a great idea to build in a solenoid bypass so you only have to open a valve) 
• patch a hole ( read how ) 
• simple fixes when outboard won’t start (suggestion: keep a copy of our Outboard Troubleshooting for Non-Mechanics in the dinghy) 
• change prefilter 

Water System

• change filter 
• tap to free pressure switch (pressure water only) 
• clear slow or stopped drains ( read how ) 
• change joker valve 
• clear clog 

Of course, you also have to know how to basically operate all your boat’s systems. The list here are things that commonly go wrong and that don’t really take calling a mechanic. All you need is a willingness to try! If you know these repairs skills for cruisers your time on the water should go much easier.

And check out our other courses and products

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Grease the Wheels of Your Boat: A Guide to Proper Lubrication

• By Steve D'Antonio
• August 27, 2024

Surveying the lubricants shelf in my shop, I see no fewer than 13 types of grease, each designed for specific requirements or needs.  

A cruising vessel doesn’t need such an array, but it is important to use the right grease for the task at hand. Selecting incorrectly, or applying too infrequently, can lead to premature wear and failure.

Grease is nothing more than lubricating mineral or vegetable-based oil that’s held in suspension with a medium more viscous than the oil itself.  

In the lubrication world, that medium is referred to as a “soap.” Soaps can take on many forms, but the most common are lithium-, ­aluminum- and calcium-based soaps. What’s most important is their incompatibility. Ideally, grease types should not be mixed without first consulting a grease compatibility chart.

The two most common types of grease are designed for use in automobile chassis. They are often called “multipurpose” and usually are calcium-based, intended for low heat and wet applications. They also can be silicone-based, designed to operate in high-­temperature (up to about 275 degrees Fahrenheit) applications. These heavy-duty greases are typically rated by the National Lubrication Grease Institute as No. 2, which has the ­consistency of peanut butter.

Other types of grease are used in electrical applications and called dielectrics. They are insulators that do not conduct electricity. They are often used to seal and prevent corrosion, and on spark-plug boots to keep out water, and prevent sticking to spark plugs. These greases are often silicone- or Teflon-based and are translucent.  

Anti-seize grease is used to prevent seizure of fasteners, particularly in corrosion-prone scenarios. It’s often aluminum- or copper-based. These greases should be used with caution because they can cause fasteners to loosen at undesired times. Never use anti-seize grease on motor mounts or shaft coupling fasteners.

Application

Grease applications aboard a cruising vessel include windlass gears, shafts, clutches, steering cables, sheaves, gears, chains, winches, furler components, thrust bearings, and some stuffing boxes and seacocks. 

Much like oil, grease needs to be changed and becomes contaminated with dirt, dust, metal and water. Rather than simply adding new grease to some components, the old grease should be removed and the surfaces cleaned first. This is especially true in bearing applications such as winches and windlasses, which are subject to contamination.  

Doing a thorough job of this cleaning requires disassembly, after which as much of the old grease as possible should be removed with a rag. The parts should be washed in a parts washer or, if that’s not available, in solvent such as mineral spirits or diesel fuel.

Grease can be applied using proprietary nozzles called Zerk fittings. They let grease pump into a component using a grease gun. Because these fittings include a check valve of sorts, the grease can’t leak out. Some seacocks are designed to have Zerk fittings installed so that their balls can be lubricated while displacing water from the void between the outside of the ball and the inside of the seacock housing.  

Grease used in seacock applications that are greaseable (many are not) should be highly viscous, NLGI No. 2 and water-­resistant. Grease designed for boat-trailer wheel bearings works well in this application.

For high-speed bearings served by Zerk fittings—this especially applies to drivetrain thrust bearings—avoid overfilling the grease cavity because the grease can inhibit heat dissipation. Zerk fittings used on seacocks, if left in place, should be stainless or Monel.  Grease can also be applied from reservoirs called “cups,” whose caps turn to force grease into an area where it’s needed.

Where grease is concerned, be sure to follow manufacturer recommendations for selection and application, as well as for replacement intervals. 

Steve D’Antonio offers services for boat owners and buyers through Steve D’Antonio Marine Consulting . 

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How to improve power management on a yacht

• August 21, 2024

Mike Morgan offers advice on how to improve power management on a yacht and preserve precious amps for those that like their home comforts

I confess, I’m not a marine electrician, and my understanding of boat electronics is at best rudimentary, but I’ve now been managing my boat’s power generation and consumption for three seasons and have developed an approach which seems to work well. Hopefully, you will find some of the following advice useful when it comes to managing your own yacht’s energy needs.

Every boat has its own particular balance of power generation and demand, so my system may not work perfectly for you, but it might help you start managing your precious amps a lot more effectively.

My wife Debbie and I sail up to nine months a year around the Med, predominantly lying at anchor. We avoid marinas and use our generator infrequently, to help save the planet and our budget.

I won’t address power needs whilst under sail here, as it’s not relevant to our cruising profile. Clearly, if you’re taking on an Atlantic crossing , then you’ll need to consider the power demands from your navigation equipment, lights and auto pilot.

We bought our pride and joy, Spirit, a Bavaria C57, brand new in 2021, and made several upgrades in an attempt to achieve the holy grail of self-sufficiency at anchor. We opted for 800 amp hours (Ah) hours provided by lithium batteries that weigh less than a single 150Ah lead acid battery.

Because lithium offers roughly twice the capacity of lead acid, that’s equivalent to 16 100Ah lead acid batteries with a combined weight of just over a third of a ton. Given Spirit’s generous beam, we’ve been able to accommodate four 420W solar panels, giving a potential maximum of 1,680W.

A few of the electrical galley appliances aboard Mike’s Bavaria C57 and the wattages that similar products might draw off your battery if you have an inverter

State of charge

The amount of electrical power you have available is all about batteries. Boat batteries are usually measured in amp hours (Ah) – the total number of amps devoured in one hour of use. So, a 120Ah battery will, theoretically, deliver 120A for one hour or 1A for 120 hours. But, of course, this is a little simplistic.

If you have lead acid batteries, you must never completely discharge them, unless you want to replace them regularly. Lead acid batteries should never be discharged below 50 per cent, so the practical Ah they really offer is half the theoretical Ah rating. In the above example, 60 hours at 1 amp would be the limit before you had to recharge the battery. Typically, the state of a battery’s charge is monitored by volts or a shunt battery monitor.

Knowing the state of charge of your batteries is critical to managing your power needs.

Article continues below…

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I replaced our Bavaria’s standard 240Ah of domestic lead acid batteries with 800Ah of lithium batteries. The advantage of a lithium battery is its light weight. And, unlike a lead acid battery, it can be run down to a much lower charge. The downside is that lithium batteries have been known to explode.

To avoid this, they need to be paired with a battery management system, which is best left to a professional, who knows what they are doing, to install.

Oceanvolt lithium batteries aboard a Feeling 32

Charging sources

A standard ‘off the shelf’ mid-size production boat is likely to be fitted with a 60A battery charger which is used by the boat’s generator, if it has one, or when shore power is plugged in. The engine will also have an alternator which will typically produce between 35 and 60A of charge, depending on the size of the engine.

Assuming a 60A charge source, the batteries will receive 60A of charge in one hour. So, to put it very simplistically, if you have, as I do, 800Ah of lithium batteries and they are at 50 per cent, to charge them up to capacity would take 6.6 hours (400 amps divided by the charging source of 60 amps equals 6.6 hours).

Unfortunately, it’s not quite as simple as that. For example, there are various charging states – bulk, absorption and trickle (also known as maintenance or float) – and different types of batteries with different ratings, but I have kept it as simple as possible here for the purposes of explanation.

If you don’t have shore power (when at anchor, for instance), or don’t have a generator, the alternative is to run your engine for six hours under light load, which is not good for the engine and won’t win you many friends nearby who are trying to relax and enjoy a peaceful sundowner.

Mike’s customised electrical control panel

Battery charger

Increasing the size of your battery charger will speed up the process of charging from both a generator and shore power. I opted to fit a 120A charger and a 3kW inverter for my 240V appliances. There is always the option to beef up the engine alternator to feed a hungry family of batteries, but again, this means the boat engine needs to run for prolonged periods of time.

The 9kW Paguro 9000 generator I fitted produces a lot more power than we ever need. The generator powers both the 240V ‘ring main’ and the battery charger. However, the battery charging will be limited by the power rating of the charger, which in my case is 120A.

Four solar panels on Spirit’s stern arch produce a maximun 1,600W

Renewable energy

Renewable energy for boats is either wind, hydro or solar. I opted for solar on a custom-made stern arch. I fitted four 400W panels, which produce a theoretical maximum output of 1,600W at 12V or, in amp speak, 133A.

Like lithium batteries, the voltage and charge from solar panels needs to be managed, so each panel is equipped with an MPPT (maximum power point tracking) controller to ensure the batteries are getting the right amount of charge when the sun is shining. The next conundrum was to get all this in perfect balance based on the boat’s power consumption.

The stern arch was custom-built to support the solar panels

Background noise

I started by building a spreadsheet to calculate the various power ratings of my many onboard electrical appliances. However, this isn’t simple as you must calculate the power demand of each appliance, estimate how long you will run it for, and when you will run it.

You then need to map this over time to calculate a theoretical power demand and how much power you need to be generated. Estimating the power output from my solar panels alone became a headache: calculating the assumed number of ‘sunny’ daylight hours, the angle of the sun, solar panel efficiency, and when the next solar eclipse would be! So, like all people with limited brain capacity, I gave up.

I decided, instead, to take a more pragmatic approach. The first thing I did was to measure the ‘background noise’ of my boat; that is, the power being consumed whilst at anchor and not running any major appliances.

It turned out to be around 200A, which is very high; but then I do have three fridges, a deep freeze and more internal lighting than Blackpool Illuminations.

The time it takes to recharge my batteries once the sun has dragged itself up to the right angle differs dramatically based on which way the boat is lying. If my stern is exposed to the sunny side my batteries will fill to the brim in a few hours. However, if my bow is facing the sun, it takes a lot longer.

On an average day, we are at 100 per cent by midday or early afternoon, leaving a good four or five hours of surplus power generation for running more critical systems.

Air-con is a battery power ‘killer’

We have a lot of power consuming paraphernalia on board, for example the kettle, coffee maker, hair dryer, microwave oven, and so on, but I ignore these when it comes to power management as they are used randomly and are never on for long.

However, we do have several appliances that are critical to our power management, including a washing machine, water maker, ice maker and water heater. All of these have high demand and can run for long periods of time. I also have air-conditioning which can be run off the inverter, but I prefer to use fans and open hatches to keep the temperature tolerable when we are at anchor. Air-con is a battery power killer and is best left to when shore power is connected or the generator is running.

Our Bavaria came with a built-in utility room, so we decided to fit a full-sized washer-dryer, which has proven to be our favourite upgrade.

For this equipment I simply use a rota and allocate a specific day to run either water production, laundry, ice making or water heating. We do laundry once a week without using the drying function and relying instead on nature’s outside dryer, which does tend to lower the tone of an idyllic anchorage.

The water maker produces 60 litres an hour and I typically run it for around four hours, which will then keep us going for several days. I fit in ice-making and heating the water at other times.

Having guests on board who insist on having a shower every time they go for a dip off the swimming platform requires the water maker to be run most days. Inevitably under these circumstances I lose the battle of consumption versus generation and will need to resort to running the generator.

We chose a Schenker Smart 60-litre-per-hour, 12V water maker rated at 20A, which enables free freshwater production all day long thanks to Spirit’s cluster of four solar panels.

I always delay this until my battery charge is showing 30 per cent or less in the morning. At that point I will run the generator for three to four hours, which is enough to get my batteries back up to around 70-80 per cent, and then let the solar panels take over.

When I run the generator, I take advantage of the surplus power it produces by running as many devices as possible: I make water, run the air-con and heat water. Never waste any of those precious amps! I find that I run the generator, on average, every eight to 10 days when we’re on our own and every four to five days when we have guests.

Batteries can be easily distributed around a yacht

Before increasing the capacity of your service battery bank you need to calculate your total power requirement by multiplying the amperage of all the equipment by the period of time it will be run over a charge cycle (usually 24hrs).

Tally up the amp hours and then double the result (to allow for not going below 50 per cent of your charge capacity). Then add another 20 per cent to ensure you will always have enough to spare.

If you already have separate engine start and service batteries but want to add further service batteries, they should all be of the same age, type and capacity (Ah rating) to the first. It’s best to create your service bank from a number of smaller batteries and then link them together to achieve the total voltage and capacity you require.

If you’re planning to install a large bank (500Ah or more), it is often better to use 6V cells for this as these allow a large deep-cycling bank to be created, while still having the ability to move them around easily or distribute them evenly over a greater area.

Create an improved service bank by connecting a number of smaller batteries

Stay in charge

Once you’ve decided on the battery type, make sure you have enough charging power to fully charge them between cycles. As a rough guide you will need to be able to bulk-charge the bank at a minimum of 10 per cent of its rated capacity (ie. 20A for a 200Ah battery).

However, 20 per cent is a better figure to aim for if you’re looking to fully recharge over one night in a marina. Modern AGM (absorbent glass mat) style batteries can usually take a greater charge than wet lead-acid type, although gel cells require a more particular regime if they are not to be damaged.

Chargers (both mains and alternator regulators) should be of the multi-stage type, with bulk, absorb and float stages. This allows the batteries to be rapidly charged until they reach around 90 per cent charge, then the charge voltage drops to attain the final part of the charge more slowly, keeping temperature (and hence internal resistance) down, and eliminating gassing.

A smart battery monitor will allow you see your state of charge and remaining capacity

Temperature noticeably affects a battery’s ability to give out and absorb charge. The colder a battery gets, the greater the power required to charge it fully. For this reason, always fit a charger or regulator with a temperature sensor that will automatically compensate for these differences.

Most power devices produce a trickle charge, and are used to keep the engine battery topped up. However, if you’re planning to install a powerful (5A+) wind or water generator, or a large solar array, then you’ll need to install some sort of voltage regulator to prevent overcharging. This can vary, from a small solid-state switch for small solar panels, to a large dump resistor that dissipates excess charge from a wind generator through heating up a wire-wound resistor.

Monitoring your batteries

The easiest way to ensure your batteries are kept in tip-top condition is to observe their state of charge every day you’re on board, using a modern ‘smart’ battery monitor. This will give you a real-time display of the current going in and out, the state of charge (SOC), and the remaining capacity available. They also often have alarms to warn you when the voltage is dropping dangerously low, or if too high a charge is being applied.

A rough idea of the SOC can be attained using a voltmeter, but this is not particularly accurate and can indicate a false condition when recently charged or under a heavy load. It’s far better to install a monitor that has a shunt, which measures current flow over time and can calculate the available charge capacity remaining much more precisely.

Hydrogenerators, like this Remoran Wave 3, will quickly recharge a yacht’s batteries underway

Optimising solar power

The efficiency of solar panels can be compromised by saltwater and long-term exposure to UV and high temperatures. Good regular maintenance will improve a solar panel’s performance.

Clean your solar panels early in the morning, while they are at their coolest, as cleaning them when they are warm or exposed to direct sunlight can cause internal thermal stresses.

Use distilled or deionized water to avoid the formation of mineral stains or deposits on the surface of the panels, and avoid using harsh chemicals or abrasive solvents that could scratch the photovoltaic cells. Let the panels air-dry or use soft cloths, and make sure no water residue is left. Check regularly for cracks, breaks or loose connections.

Hydrogenerators

Hydrogeneration has become a great deal more efficient in recent years. It’s a very simple concept: the yacht’s motion through the water turns an alternator on the transom-mounted hydrogenerator which generates electricity to recharge the boat’s batteries. Achieving 300Ah each day is a realistic expectation when cruising at 7-8 knots.

Oceanvolt’s High Power ServoProp 25 electric saildrive

Main prop regeneration

You can also use your main propeller to ‘regenerate’ electricity whilst under sail by using a parallel hybrid propulsion system where an electric motor is installed alongside the engine. Lynch Motors in Devon has supplied its systems to Vendée Globe boats for years, purely as a re-generator, and now produces a Red Snapper electric motor for cruising yachts.

The only problem with a regeneration system is that the pitch required for the propeller to drive the boat efficiently through the water may not always be the same as the pitch for optimum regeneration. Manufacturers have tackled this in different ways.

Oceanvolt has developed its ServoProp for saildrives, which electronically adjusts its pitch depending on speed and function. The latest incarnation allows total 360° blade mobility and faces forwards, increasing efficiency: at six knots, it produces an eye-watering 1kW of power.

Bruntons has another solution with the cleverly engineered Autoprop, which automatically pitches up to match the boat speed. Its Ecostar version of the prop can generate 200W at five knots and up to 1kW at 10 knots when connected to an electric motor.

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Brett Campbell shares boat repair tips from situations he and his wife Amanda have encountered while voyaging on in far flung locales. To avoid overwhelm, he advises prioritizing repairs into "urgent," "comfort" and "when time allows" categories. While he provides his favorite toolkit essentials and hacks, he also reminds cruisers that asking for help from more knowledgeable people is one of the most important boat repair techniques.

My wife Amanda often asks fellow cruisers the question: Would you prefer to sail with an experienced mechanic who knew little about sailing, or an experienced sailor who knew little about mechanics? As an experienced sailor, I think I’d go with the former. In the last 11 years of living onboard we’ve managed to keep Leventeia , a Beneteau Oceanis 43, moving with (very) basic technical skills.

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Scientists Have a New Theory About Why Orcas Are Attacking Boats

A pod of orcas damaged a boat and left its two-person crew stranded. It was the latest in a string of attacks that research suggests could be used for hunting practice.

By Lynsey Chutel

Reporting from London.

The orcas have struck again — this time ramming a sailboat off Spain’s northwest coast, rescue workers said on Tuesday.

A pod of orcas damaged the rudder of a sailboat, leaving its two-person crew stranded in the waters off Cape Finisterre Sunday, according to an emailed statement from the rescue workers. It is the latest in a string of attacks by pods of orcas swimming around the Iberian Peninsula.

While the sailboat, the Amidala, did not sink, pods of orcas have sunken several vessels in recent years. Researchers still do not know whether the attacks are playful or malicious, but a new theory based on studying the troublesome pods of orcas suggests that they could be using the boats as practice targets for new hunting techniques. Other competing theories still exist.

Regardless of the orcas’ intentions, the behavior is enough to worry sailors journeying in the highly trafficked waters around North Africa, Spain and Portugal.

The Amidala, manned by a crew of two Belgians, encountered an unknown number of orcas on Sunday afternoon. They sent a mayday distress call to the Finisterre Maritime Rescue Center, which towed the vessel back to shore, the center said.

The sailboat’s damaged rudder, and poor weather conditions in the area, made the rescue more arduous, with waves reaching up to nearly 10 feet and winds hitting speeds of 40 miles per hour. A female crew member on the Amidala suffered injuries to her hand as the sailboat was being towed, and she was transferred to a rescue vessel, the rescue center said. After more than four hours, the Amidala made it back to shore.

In recent years, sailors have shared tips about how to stop orca rammings, or at the very least deter them. Deterrents include painting the hull a different color. Another tactic is to blast heavy metal music, or to scatter sand into the ocean. There’s also an app that tracks orca activity in the ocean, letting boats steer clear of pods.

Researchers have no definitive explanations about why orcas, seemingly in this region alone, are increasingly ramming ships. One theory suggests that the ramming stems from past traumatic encounters between orcas and boats. Some scientists think it may be simpler than that — as naturally curious and playful mammals, orcas may just be having some fun.

The other, new, theory comes from the Bottlenose Dolphin Research Institute in Spain, which has been tracking the orca ship rammings since 2020. It has found that orca pods off the coast of Spain, who migrate in the waters between North Africa and the Iberian Peninsula, have developed a taste of Atlantic bluefin tuna, according to a paper the institute will publish next month.

That species of tuna can grow up to 10 feet long and move at speeds that orcas can’t always catch, at least not without training, said Bruno Díaz López, the institute’s chief biologist. Sailboats are often the ideal size to train on — they move quickly and silently, and close to the water’s surface, not unlike the orcas’ prey.

Researchers studying the ramming incidents have found that it is mostly young orcas who go after sailboats, but sometimes adults appear to be teaching younger members of the pod how to do so. The orcas have also figured out that the rudder is soft enough to bite, and that fiberglass makes for good ramming, Mr. Díaz López said.

“This is like a training toy,” Mr. Díaz López said. “It’s a shame that we humans are in the middle of this game, but they are learning.”

Lynsey Chutel covers South Africa and the countries that make up southern Africa from Johannesburg. More about Lynsey Chutel

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18-year-old fatally struck by boat propeller in New Jersey, police say

Authorities in New Jersey are investigating a "tragic boating accident" that left a teenage girl dead.

Zeina Mahafzah, an 18-year-old, from Wayne, New Jersey, was attempting to board a boat from a raft being pulled by the boat in the waters off Sunset Park in Harvey Cedars, about an hour from Atlantic City, around 4:30 p.m. Sunday when she was struck by the vessel's propeller and fatally injured, New Jersey State Police said Monday.

Police said the incident was under investigation and no further information on the incident was immediately available.

While authorities did not share further details, NBC10 Philadelphia reported the boat was being driven by her father and multiple others were traumatized in the accident and were later evaluated by EMS.

Thoughts and prayers for family

Harvey Cedars Police Department, in post on X Sunday evening, said the department was investigating a "tragic boat accident off of Harvey Cedars in Long Beach Island" on Jersey Shore with the New Jersey State Police.

"As the investigation is in its preliminary stages, we ask that you keep the family and community in your thoughts and prayers," department had said in its post.

Saman Shafiq is a trending news reporter for USA TODAY. Reach her at [email protected] and follow her on X and Instagram @saman_shafiq7.