5 shots yachting

What is the meaning of "give me 5 shots" in yachting and what is a shot when dropping anchor?

In yachting, the phrase "give me 5 shots" is commonly used when dropping anchor. A "shot" in this context refers to a unit of length in the anchor chain.

Here's what you need to know about the meaning of "give me 5 shots" and the concept of a shot when dropping anchor in yachting:

Meaning of "Give me 5 shots":

• When a captain or crew member says "give me 5 shots," they are referring to the length of anchor chain that needs to be released. Each shot typically represents a specific length, such as 15 or 20 fathoms (1 fathom = 6 feet).
• The number of shots required may vary depending on the depth of the water and the conditions of the anchorage.
• By specifying the number of shots, the captain is instructing the deckhand to release a certain length of anchor chain to ensure the boat is securely anchored.

Understanding a shot when dropping anchor:

• In yachting, the anchor chain is used to secure the boat in place when anchoring.
• The anchor chain is made up of individual links, and each link is referred to as a "shot."
• The length of a shot can vary depending on the vessel and its equipment, but it is typically around 90-100 feet.
• The anchor chain is attached to the anchor, and as the chain is released, it allows the anchor to reach the seabed and hold the boat in position.

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• Captain Lee Rosbach of Bravo’s ‘Below Deck’ is known for these (often gruff) Lee-isms - Sun Sentinel

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What is the definition of anchor shots?

Anchor shots, also known as “anchor outs”, are a term used in the boating community to describe a technique used to secure a boat in place. To put it simply, anchor shots involve dropping an anchor from the boat and letting it sink down to the bottom of the body of water underneath. This anchor then holds the boat in place, preventing it from drifting away or being moved by the currents or wind.

Before attempting an anchor shot, it is important to choose the right kind of anchor and to know the water depth and type of ground beneath the surface. The most common types of anchors used for boats are fluke anchors, plow anchors, and mushroom anchors. The fluke anchor is ideal for sandy bottoms, while the plow anchor is better for rocky or weedy bottoms. The mushroom anchor is best suited to mud or clay bottoms.

To execute an anchor shot, navigate the boat to the desired location and determine the water depth. Lower the anchor slowly, allowing it to sink to the bottom while paying out the required amount of anchor line. The anchor line should be at least five times the depth of the water to ensure maximum holding power. Once the anchor has reached the bottom, set it by jerking the line a few times to ensure it has properly dug into the bottom.

To test if the anchor is securely set, gently try moving the boat by shifting weight in different directions. If the boat remains in place, the anchor has been set properly. A good tip for making sure the anchor doesn’t slip during this process is to add a small amount of reverse throttle to the boat- this will help in digging the anchor and setting it more firmly.

It’s worth mentioning that anchor shots are not a fix-it-all solution for securing a boat. If the weather turns and the wind picks up, or if the anchor isn’t set correctly, the boat may drift or even start drifting. It is essential to regularly check the anchor’s security and re-set if needed. Also, be certain to keep scope in mind while using anchor shots. The more scope that is let out, the more the anchor has a chance to “set” itself, creating a stronger hold on the bottom.

Overall, using anchor shots is an essential skill for any boater who plans to spend time on the water. With the right equipment and knowledge, this technique can help keep the boat in place, allowing for a relaxing day on the water without worrying about drifting off course.

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100 Basic Yachting & Sailing Terms You Need To Know

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Yachting is an increasingly popular activity that involves exploring and enjoying bodies of water aboard sailboats or motorboats. It doesn’t matter if you’re a seasoned sailor or brand-new to the sport; knowing the language used in yachting is crucial for efficient communication and secure navigation. We’ll look at some of the most often used terminology and expressions in the world of yachting in this list of 100 fundamental yachting terms, from boat parts to navigation and safety gear, and more. This list is an excellent place to start whether you’re seeking to brush up on your yachting terminology or are just beginning into the sport.

Aft – Toward the back of the boat

Anchor – A heavy object used to keep a boat in place

Ballast – Weight added to the bottom of a boat to improve stability

Beam – The width of a boat at its widest point

Bilge – The lowest point inside the boat where water collects

Bimini – A type of sunshade or canopy used on boats

Bow – The front of a boat

Buoy – A floating marker used to mark channels, hazards or anchorages

Cabin – An enclosed space on a boat used for sleeping and living quarters

Capsize – To tip over or turn upside down

Cleat – A metal or plastic fitting used to secure ropes or lines to the boat

Cockpit – The open area in the back of the boat where the steering and controls are located

Compass – A navigational tool used to determine the direction

Crew – The people who work on a boat, assisting with sailing or other duties

Deck – The top surface of a boat where people can stand or walk

Dock – A platform or structure where boats can be tied up or moored

Draft – The depth of a boat below the waterline

Fender – A cushion or bumper used to protect the boat from damage when docking

Flag – A piece of fabric used to signal or communicate on a boat

Galley – The kitchen area on a boat

Genoa – A type of sail that is used for cruising and racing

GPS – Global Positioning System, a navigational system that uses satellites to determine the location

Halyard – A rope or line used to hoist or lower a sail

Hatch – An opening in the deck or cabin of a boat

Head – The bathroom on a boat

Hull – The main body of the boat, typically made of fiberglass or wood

Jib – A small triangular sail located forward of the mast

Keel – A fin-shaped object located under the boat that provides stability and helps prevent drifting

Knot – A measure of speed equal to one nautical mile per hour

Lanyard – A short cord or rope used to secure equipment or gear on a boat

Latitude – A measure of distance north or south of the equator

Leeward – The side of the boat sheltered from the wind

Lifeline – A line or rope used to provide safety and support on the deck of a boat

Log – A device used to measure speed and distance traveled

Mast – A vertical pole or spar that supports the sails

Mooring – The process of securing a boat to a dock or anchor

Nautical – Relating to or involving ships, sailors, or navigation on water

Navigation – The process of planning and controlling the course of a boat

Oar – A long pole with a flat blade used for rowing a boat

Outboard – A motor located on the outside of the boat

Port – The left side of a boat when facing forward

Propeller – A device that uses rotating blades to provide forward motion to a boat

Pulpit – A railing or fence located on the bow of the boat

Rudder – A flat object located at the back of the boat used to steer

Sail – A piece of fabric used to catch the wind and propel the boat

Sailing is the practice of using the wind to power a vessel through the water

Sheet – A line or rope used to control the angle of the sails

Skipper – The person in charge of operating a boat

Stern – The back of the boat

Tack – The direction of a boat when it is sailing upwind

Throttle – The control used to increase or decrease engine speed

Tiller – A handle or lever used to steer a boat

Transom – The flat, vertical surface at the back of the boat where the outboard motor is mounted

Trim – The adjustment of the sails and other equipment to optimize performance

Wake – The waves created by a boat as it moves through the water

Windward – The side of the boat facing into the wind

Winch – A device used to pull or hoist heavy objects on a boat

Yacht – A larger, more luxurious type of boat typically used for pleasure cruising

Bilge pump – A device used to pump water out of the bilge

Boom – The horizontal pole or spar that extends from the mast to support the bottom of the sail

Bowline – A knot used to secure a line to a fixed object

Cam cleat – A device used to secure a line under tension

Catamaran – A type of boat with two parallel hulls

Centerboard – A movable fin located underneath the boat that helps improve stability and maneuverability

Chafe – The wearing away or damage to a rope or line caused by friction against another surface

Clew – The lower corner of a sail

Current – The flow of water in a particular direction

Dinghy – A small boat used to transport people or supplies to and from shore

Fairlead – A device used to guide a line or rope in a particular direction

Flotation device – A piece of equipment used to keep a person afloat in the water

Forestay – The wire or rope that supports the mast at the front of the boat

Gaff – A spar used to support the upper edge of a sail

Headway – The forward motion of a boat

Inboard – A motor located inside the boat

Jibsheet – The line or rope used to control the jib sail

Keelboat – A type of sailboat with a fixed keel for stability and maneuverability

Luff – The forward edge of a sail

Masthead – The top of the mast where the highest sails are attached

Navigation lights – Lights used to signal other boats of the position and direction of a boat at night

Outhaul – The line or rope used to control the tension of the bottom of the sail

Planing – The state of a boat when it is moving quickly across the water and partially out of the water

Powerboat – A type of boat that is powered by an engine rather than sails

Ratchet block – A device used to reduce the effort required to pull a line under tension

Reefing – The process of reducing the size of the sails in high wind conditions

Rigging – The system of ropes and wires used to support and control the sails and mast

Rudderpost – The vertical post or shaft that the rudder is attached to

Scow – A type of sailboat with a flat bottom and squared-off ends

Shackle – A metal fitting used to connect two pieces of rope or chain

Spinnaker – A large, lightweight sail used to catch the wind when sailing down

wind 90. Spreaders – The horizontal struts on a mast that help to support and spread the shrouds

Standing rigging – The fixed parts of a boat’s rigging system, such as the mast and shrouds

Stern light – A white light on the back of a boat used to signal other boats at night

Stowaway – A person who hides on a boat in order to travel without permission

Tiller extension – A device used to extend the length of the tiller to make steering easier

Topside – The upper part of a boat, above the waterline

Transom door – A door in the back of a boat that provides access to the water

Traveler – A device used to move the mainsail along the boom

Waterline – The level at which a boat floats in the water

Winch handle – A handle used to turn winches to control the sails and lines

Yawl – A type of sailboat with two masts, the smaller of which is located aft of the rudder post.

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• Digital edition

How much anchor chain?

• Katy Stickland
• August 26, 2019

When it comes to putting out anchor chain, most of us follow a basic ratio rule of thumb, but we should be taking wind and tide into account, argues Christopher Smith

A busy anchorage clearly requires you to reduce your swinging circle by using less chain than you might otherwise use, but how do you know you won't drag?

Anchoring is a key part of the cruising sailor’s arsenal – at least for those who don’t intend to take refuge in a marina every time they wish to stop sailing.

For such a vital aspect of our pastime, however, it can be difficult to get solid information on many aspects of the process.

This is due, in no small part, to the complexities in working out issues such as chain length.

What is needed in most circumstances is a handy rule of thumb, which can be used to ensure you are anchoring safely in most circumstances.

By its very nature, a rule of thumb calculation cannot take into account all aspects of the anchoring equation, but it is surprising how many miss out quite vital considerations simply because they can be hard to make fit a certain simplified formula.

Everyone has their own idea of how much anchor chain to use. The simplest – and perhaps most often used method – why leave all of that chain you have stored in the locker?

In reality this usually means using the maximum safe length – any anchorage has rocks, shallows and other boats at anchor either when you arrive or, often, turning up after your arrival.

So how do you decide what is safe before looking elsewhere to anchor? Traditionally you use the scope – a multiple of the water depth to determine the length of anchor chain you’ll need to use. The RYA suggest a scope of at least 4:1, others say you need 7:1 but in crowded anchorages 3:1 is quite common.

A moment’s thought, however, tells you that a static rule of thumb in an environment that can significantly change in different conditions will not sufficiently account for the main forces acting on your boat, namely the wind and the tidal stream.

Often, wind is going to be the biggest concern, so you must take this into consideration and also be aware of, and prepared for, the maximum anticipated wind strength. And there’s the problem; there are virtually no articles or text books on anchoring to tell you how to take into account the wind strength when setting your anchor.

So I’ve come up with a very simple guide to provide a rule of thumb calculation (above), which also takes wind and tide into account.

If you will not see anything greater than the top end of Force 4 (16 knots) and you are anchoring a 10m yacht in fairly shallow water, by which I mean anything under about 8m depth, you should be fine with 16m + 10m = 26m of chain. But if you think a Force 7 gale (33 knots) is coming, try setting 33m + 10m = 43m of chain. This rule of thumb works in the majority of anchorages relatively close to the shore where the water is quite shallow, but for deeper anchorages (of around 10-15m) you obviously need more chain.

The answer to this is simple: you just need to use a factor of 1.5 times the wind speed, which will deliver a better result.

Wind-ONLY formula for shallow anchorages (4 to 8m) Chain needed (m) = wind speed (knots) + boat length (m)

Calculating length: a  rule of thumb.

• Simple equation      The most basic equation is: wind speed + boat length = chain length. This works for anchorages up to around 10m. Beyond that depth, calculate 1.5 times wind speed instead.
• Calculating tide       Tide can also be taken into consideration, by converting the tidal force asserted to your boat into a relative wind speed. Motoring into varying headwinds and noting the engine rpm and then seeing what boat speed the same revs provide in calm conditions can provide a surprisingly accurate wind speed to tidal flow conversion.
• Adding some more  It is wise to add roughly one additional boat length to our calculations to ensure there is enough slack to counter the yawing at anchor without a direct upward pull on the anchor.
• Plan ahead Make sure you consider not just the conditions of the anchorage as you arrive but what they might become. Is the wind forecast to increase significantly? Is there a likelihood of the anchorage becoming significantly busier while you are there? How much tidal stream do you expect to flow through the anchorage when the tide changes?

Different types of anchor pros and cons

Traditional fisherman anchors can be folded flat for easy strowage and hold well on rock and weed, but tiny flukes are likely to drag on any other bottom, ruling it out as a main anchor.

CQR, Delta and Kobra II anchors may drag if pulled hard enough, tilling the seabed if it is soft sand or mud. Designes have evolved to increase their maximum holding power.

The genuine Bruce has not been made for very many years and many copies have been produced, often in low-grade, brittle and weak materials. The genuine item sets and holds well in soft-to-medium bottoms, is said to hold on rock, but its long leading edge struggles to cut through weed.

Flat anchors

Danforth, Britany, FOB, Fortress and Guardian anchors have a large surface area for their weight, and hold well in soft-to-medium bottoms. On hard bottoms, such as packed sand and shingle, they can skid without setting and they tend not to reset when the tide or wind changes the direction of pull.

New generation

This category includes the Bügel, Manson Supreme, Rocna, Sarca and Spade. Their designs aim to make them easier to set and reset if the tide changes, with increased holding power.

Catenary Curves

The starting point for these calculations is the curvature of the chain in the water, the catenary, which transfers the lateral force from boat to seabed. The maths isn’t fun, but for typical anchoring conditions, the catenary length turns out to be closely linear with wind speed, but with a slope that increases only as the square root of the anchoring depth.

For shallow anchoring (5-8m) the slope is close to unity: catenary length (m) = wind speed (knots). With deeper anchorages(15m) the slope rises to 1.5 and onwards to 2 at 20m depths.

The square root factor with depth makes clear that the concept of scope is flawed. For example, anchoring in 4m of water with a Force 5 wind either present or expected, you need 32m chain, a scope of almost 8:1.

The amount of anchor chain that you use in calm conditions should be different to that needed when the wind is up

As Rod Heikell says ( Yachting Monthly , Summer 2018) ‘Forget the 3:1 scope usually touted: go for at least 5:1, and if you have swinging room, more.’

What I say is forget the concept of scope entirely!

The force of the wind also depends on the shape (windage) of the boat. You can measure this for your own boat by measuring the amount of chain lifted at a given wind speed (V) and depth (D) with the formula: catenary = f.V.√D .

My ‘shallow anchorages’ calculation is based on my boat (10.4 m Jeanneau Espace, 10mm chain) and a depth of 6m. Values will be reasonably similar for most production yachts, assuming the chain size increases according to the boat size.

Chain on the seabed

We can calculate the length of the catenary – but is this the right amount of anchor chain to use?

Christopher Smith has had a series of shared ownerships in Greece.

Years of swimming down to watch the anchor in warm Mediterranean waters has convinced me that an optimal chain length is the catenary plus a boat length.

This gives a buffer to counter the yawing at anchor without a direct upward pull on the anchor.

Also a length of chain bedded in the sand or mud substantially reduces the pull on the anchor. So my best guess is: total chain = catenary + boat length.

Some people say that in order to drive the anchor into the seabed the chain needs to be angled upwards, i.e. a length slightly less than the catenary. However this is exactly why we use the motor in reverse after anchoring – to lift the chain angle and drive the anchor down.

No consideration is given here to the holding power of the anchor. That’s essential and is discussed in many other articles.

Tidal streams

The second force acting on your boat is the drag of tidal streams. Surprisingly you can easily measure this yourself.

On a windy day motor slowly into the wind, reduce revs, and find the engine revs that just balances the wind force. Then on a calm day note the boat speed produced by the same revs.

With my boat, a full Force 4 wind needed 1200 rpm to balance the wind force – and when calm 1200 rpm gave 4.2 knots speed over ground. Thus a 4.2 knot tidal current would correspond to a 16 knot wind force, which needs 16m chain to balance it, i.e. about 4m of chain per knot of current.

So we now have a more complete formula.

Anchor chains are usually marked in 10m stages, so a practical approach is to round the calculations to the nearest 10m of chain.

With 10m boat length added, this gives an easy to use table (below).

It seems extraordinary that for all the articles on anchoring and discussions on scope there is so little consideration of how to allow for wind strength.

Yes, there are geek articles on catenary lengths, but little attempt to apply this into sailing practice. I hope here to at least reawaken your thought processes of how to choose an appropriate length of anchor chain.

It’s actually not so hard after all.

Wind & tide formula for shallow anchorages (4 to 8m) Chain needed (m) = wind speed (knots) + 4 x water speed + boat length (m)

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• Anchoring for boats: A comprehensive guide

If you're setting sail on a boat, understanding the ins and outs of anchoring is crucial. Anchors play a pivotal role in keeping your vessel secure, whether you're in a tranquil harbor or facing challenging seas. In this comprehensive guide, we'll delve into all things related to boat anchors, from types and techniques to essential tips for safe anchoring.

Types of boat anchors

When it comes to boat anchors, various types are available, each designed for specific conditions and seabeds. Let's explore some common types:

1. Danforth anchor

The Danforth anchor, also known as the fluke anchor, is revered for its exceptional holding power, particularly in soft and sandy seabeds. Its design, characterised by sharp triangular flukes, facilitates deep penetration into the substrate, ensuring reliable anchorage even in calm waters with minimal tidal movement. This anchor's effectiveness is further enhanced by its lightweight construction, making it a preferred choice for smaller vessels and recreational boating activities. Additionally, the Danforth anchor's collapsible design enables easy storage and deployment, adding to its practicality and versatility on board.

2. Plow anchor

Plow anchors, represented by renowned designs such as the CQR (Coastal Quick Release) and Delta, are renowned for their versatility and rapid setting capabilities across diverse seabed conditions. Featuring a single large fluke resembling a plough, these anchors excel in gripping various substrates, including sand, mud, and gravel, making them favoured choices for boaters navigating different coastal environments. The CQR's innovative hinge mechanism allows it to pivot and self-align with changes in the seabed, ensuring optimal holding power even in shifting conditions. Similarly, the Delta anchor's robust construction and sharp tip enable it to penetrate and set quickly, providing reliable anchorage for vessels of various sizes.

3. Claw anchor

Claw anchors, epitomised by designs like the Bruce and Lewmar models, are specially engineered to conquer challenging seabeds characterised by rocks, weeds, or debris. Their unique configuration, featuring multiple curved flukes resembling claws, allows them to penetrate and grip uneven or obstructed surfaces effectively. This attribute makes claw anchors indispensable for boaters exploring rocky coastlines, shallow reefs, or areas prone to seaweed entanglement. The Bruce anchor, in particular, is celebrated for its exceptional holding power and reliability, making it a preferred choice for offshore cruising and long-term anchoring. Similarly, Lewmar's claw anchors are revered for their durability and performance in demanding marine environments, offering peace of mind to sailors and adventurers alike.

4. Mushroom anchor

Mushroom anchors are compact, weighted anchors ideally suited for lightweight boats, canoes, or small watercraft. Their design features a wide, flat bottom resembling a mushroom cap, which sinks into the seabed to provide stability and secure holding in calm conditions. While not suitable for anchoring in high winds or strong currents, mushroom anchors offer a practical solution for temporary mooring or securing vessels in sheltered waters. Their simplicity and ease of use make them popular choices for recreational boating activities, where lightweight and portable anchoring options are preferred. Additionally, mushroom anchors are less likely to damage delicate substrates or cause environmental disturbances, making them environmentally friendly alternatives for anchoring in sensitive marine ecosystems.

Anchoring techniques

Proper anchoring involves more than just dropping an anchor into the water. Here are essential techniques to master:

1. Setting the anchor

Setting the anchor involves a careful process to ensure a secure hold. Begin by lowering the anchor to the seabed slowly while allowing the boat to drift back with the wind or current. This gradual descent facilitates proper embedding of the anchor into the seabed substrate. As you lower the anchor, pay out enough anchor rode (chain or line) to create a scope ratio of 7:1, providing optimal holding power. A sufficient scope allows the anchor to set more effectively and reduces the risk of dragging or dislodging in changing conditions.

2. Setting the hook

Once the anchor reaches the seabed, it's crucial to set the hook firmly for maximum holding power. Apply reverse throttle to the engine, gently pulling the boat back against the anchor. You'll know the anchor is properly set when you feel resistance and observe the boat pulling back while the anchor holds firm. This resistance indicates that the anchor has dug into the seabed and established a secure grip, ensuring stability even in challenging conditions.

3. Monitoring swing radius

Maintaining awareness of your boat's swing radius is essential to prevent collisions with other vessels or obstacles while at anchor. Continuously monitor your surroundings and the movement of your boat in response to wind, current, and tide. Use fixed landmarks onshore or GPS systems to track your position relative to your anchor point. By monitoring your swing radius, you can proactively adjust your position if necessary to avoid potential hazards and ensure safe anchorage throughout your stay.

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Essential anchoring tips

1. weather awareness.

Remain constantly vigilant and attuned to weather changes, as they can significantly impact the safety and security of your vessel. Be particularly mindful of forecasts predicting strong winds or storms, as these conditions can pose serious risks to anchored vessels. Ensure that your anchor is adequately secured and prepared to withstand the anticipated weather conditions. Regularly check weather updates and take proactive measures to safeguard your vessel and crew.

2. Routine inspections

Regular inspections of your anchor, chain, and rode are essential to maintaining their integrity and ensuring reliable performance. Over time, exposure to saltwater and environmental factors can cause wear and corrosion, compromising the effectiveness of these crucial anchoring components. Therefore, it's imperative to conduct routine checks to identify any signs of damage or deterioration promptly. Replace any worn or damaged components without delay to prevent potential anchor failure and mitigate risks while anchoring.

3. Proper storage

Effective storage of your anchor is vital for both safety and convenience on board your vessel. Improperly stowed anchors can pose hazards to crew members and damage to the vessel itself. Utilise dedicated anchor lockers or secure mounting systems to store your anchor safely when not in use. Ensure that the storage location is easily accessible and well-secured to prevent accidental dislodgement or shifting during rough seas or sudden manoeuvres. By prioritising proper storage practices, you can minimise the likelihood of accidents and ensure the efficient deployment of your anchor when needed.

4. Emergency procedures

Familiarise yourself and your crew with emergency anchor release procedures to be prepared for unforeseen circumstances requiring rapid anchoring. In emergency situations such as engine failure or loss of steering control, deploying the anchor quickly and effectively can be crucial for preventing drift, collision, or grounding. Establish clear protocols and designate responsibilities for emergency anchoring, including the location of emergency anchor release mechanisms and the steps for their activation. Regularly review and practise these procedures to ensure swift and coordinated responses in times of crisis.

5. Anchor type selection

Ensure you select the appropriate anchor type tailored to your vessel and the prevailing conditions you anticipate. Different anchor designs excel in specific seabeds and weather conditions. For example, a plough anchor proves effective in muddy bottoms, whereas a Danforth anchor is better suited for sandy or rocky substrates. Understanding the strengths of your anchor enhances its performance and guarantees a reliable hold.

6. Scope calculation

Calculate the correct scope, the ratio of anchor rode length to water depth, to guarantee adequate holding power. As a general guideline, employ a scope of 7:1 in calm conditions and extend it up to 10:1 in rough seas. Sufficient scope facilitates proper anchor setting and offers superior resistance against dragging or dislodgement.

7. Setting technique

Master the technique of firmly setting your anchor. Upon dropping the anchor, slowly manoeuvre your vessel in reverse while paying out the rode, enabling the anchor to embed into the seabed. Once the desired length of rode is reached, secure it and gradually increase engine power in reverse to set the anchor securely. This method ensures a robust hold and minimises the risk of anchor drag.

8. Monitoring and adjustment

Regularly monitor your vessel's position to confirm the anchor's secure hold. Utilise onshore visual references or GPS systems to track any movement. Should any dragging or shifting be detected, consider readjusting your position by resetting the anchor or deploying additional anchors for added stability. Remain vigilant to changing conditions and make necessary adjustments to maintain a safe anchorage.

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Denisa Nguyenová