amati dorade yacht

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Dorade Racing Yacht

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Dorade, considered the world's first modern Yacht, was designed by Olin Stephens, one of most famous yacht designers of the 20th century. In appearance fine and delicate, Dorade was later defined by the Times newspaper as ""the most prodigious little ocean racing yacht ever built ”.

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Dorade by Kevin - Amati - 1/20

By Kevin Aris June 15, 2020 in Work in Progress - Maritime

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Welcome to my new build

This was presented to me by NRG Model Ship World  a few months ago as a retirement present, for which i am extremely grateful, my kit is the one that was reviewed

i have been given permission by the reviewer to use this 

1:20 Dorade – 1931 Amati Catalogue # 1605

Dorade is a yacht designed in 1929 by Olin Stephens of Sparkman & Stephens and built 1929–1930 by the Minneford Yacht Yard in City Island, New York. She went on to place 2nd in the Bermuda Race later that year. The crew for its first race received the All-Amateur Crew Prize. However, it would be a win in the Transatlantic Race that would bring the boat its name. She completed a race that takes an estimated 3–4 weeks in just 17 days, earning her crew a parade upon the ship's return and a reception for Olin Stephens hosted by the mayor of New York. Olin Stephens, the designer, was skipper through 1932 when he handed the boat to his brother, Rod Stephens. Led by Rod, Dorade sailed to victory in the 1932 Bermuda Race. From Bermuda, Dorade sailed back to Norway, down to Cowes, England, and finally back to America after winning the Fastnet Race. The victory of the 1932 Fastnet Race was of substantial significance given the unusually severe weather, several ships feared missing as well as one recorded drowning among the events that unfolded.

Dorade was completely restored in 1997 at the shipyard of Argentario, in Porto Santo Stefano, Italy. In 2013, Dorade took first place (after applying her handicap) in the Trans-Pacific race that she had won in 1936. Edit courtesy of Wikipedia

For further information on Dorade, check out this excellent page at Dorade.org

The size of this box (and it’s huge!) certainly belies the weight of it. You’d expect something as heavy as the Vanguard that we looked at a couple of months ago, but that’s certainly not the case at all. The reason for this will be seen in a moment. The box itself is beautifully presented with a super-glossy lid depicting a finished Dorade model, and of course in a portrait format due to the shape of the vessel. The model itself, at 1:20 scale, has given measurements of 85.6cm long, and 103 cm tall. More images of the completed vessel adorn the sides of the box. Now, lifting that lid reveals an open top lower box, unlike the complete and enclosed boxes of other large Amati kits I’ve looked at. Immediately, your eyes are drawn to the reason why this box is relatively light, and that is the inclusion of a complete ABS hull, and hence the reason why this model is stated as being suitable for RC conversion, although the modeller will have to fathom that themselves, as no instructions are given for that particular path. Internally, the box has a number of card inserts to stop the various contents from jangling around loose. It’s only the components tray itself that seems to be a little freer to move, but thankfully, mine hadn’t spilled open or become dislodged. 

That ABS hull is very nicely moulded, is fairly thin, and super-light in weight. It has a glossy external finish and will just need some buffing and polishing to remove some very minor surface abrasions. The upper edge will need the fuzziness removed from, but again, this is something that’s very east to do, and not a reflection of the quality, which really is excellent. 

First, we take a look at the thick, clear sleeve and the paper contents within. Quite a few Amati releases have a glossy instruction manual, and this has one too, well…at least the cover is glossy, with Italian text giving a short history of the vessel. Inside, the instructions are given in line drawing format, with shading for clarity. All stages have a reference number which can be cross-checked with the written assembly instructions. For these, a glossy Italian manual is provided, with standard A4 sheets provided for both the French and English versions. Going back to the main illustrative instructions, there is some annotation given in all three set languages also. Parts are also clearly identified, whether they be wooden, or one of the many fittings that are supplied. Please note that the timber parts themselves aren’t actually numbered, and you will need to refer to the component identification plan sheet. Construction tips are also given, such as how to mark the waterline.

As for the fittings etc., these can be identified against a comprehensive parts list that is provided in each language, which gives the part number, name, and specific number of included components. I suggest that each packet of components be put in a zip-lock wallet with the kit identifying code written on, to make it easy to locate the parts needed during construction.

FOUR large plan sheets are included in this release, printed on relatively thin paper. The first three sheets provide large scale drawings of the Bessel, from profiles, to upper elevations and sectional material, plus those all-important fitting positions etc. Annotation on the main plans appears to be in Italian, but the illustrations are clear to see, so for a competent modeller, there shouldn’t be any problems encountered. If the worst comes to worst, just use an online translator tool.

The last of the large plan sheets is the parts guide for the wooden sheets, with all parts being easily identified against the instruction booklet. I’m sure I once read that the Dorade kit provided no parts reference for things such as the internal hull framework etc. and that everything was in Italian. Well, if that was the case, then it certainly isn’t now. Remember that companies like Amati revise their kits from time to time, in instructions as well as parts, so maybe that referred to an old issue. 

A sandwich of timber is now provided as two long plywood sheets are taped together, with the thin ply deck hiding between them. These main sheets are the thickest timber components in the box and provide the modeller with the various internal hull frames and bulkheads, as well as the parts that make up stand (note that no main plinth is supplied, as shown on the box lid). All parts are cleanly laser-cut with very small tags to cut through to remove them from their sheets.

The deck is a full-length piece of thin ply with mast holes in situ, and the rear panel for lower deck access, just needing removal. 

Another thick, clear sleeve contains more timber components, plus a number of other items. One of the timber sheets is a smaller, thin ply sheet with parts associated with the various deck structures, to name but a few. Cutting is again nice and clean, and timber quality is excellent. Parts here are for the various stringers, cockpit sides and edges, funnel flange and deckhouse roof etc.

Two thicker walnut sheets include parts for the rudder, gunwales, belaying pin rack, ventilator tops, skylights, doors, winch steps. Mizzen mast coaming and crosstrees, plus other coamings and side elements. As a number of these parts will be varnished and the wood generally seen, you will need to remove any charring from the laser cutting. 

One packet contains some good quality acetate for the various deck structure windows, and also a piece of what appears to be a glossy dark green card. I can’t identify that as of yet.

Timber strip quality is high and also cleanly cut. This first bundle, held by a thread and paper wrap, is for the deck planking. Remember, no hull planking here! This creamy coloured material will need to have a nice deck caulk effect set between them.

Another bundle of timber includes circular and semi-circular dowel lengths, and more strip timber in Ramin and walnut. 

Several lengths of brass section strip are included, as is a length of thick copper rod.

Amati has included a reasonably sized sheet of brass photo etch. This really must be the shiniest, most polished PE that I’ve ever seen. Totally mirror-like in quality. Here you will find parts that include mast collars, shelves, trolleys, flanges, portholes, jib brackets, sheave boxes, rails, and turnbuckle and ventilator parts, again, to name but a few. Production quality is first rate, with narrow, thin tags holding the components securely until you need to remove them. A separate, smaller piece of PE contains the external and internal hawseholes.

Lastly, we take a look at the plastic tray of components. This tray is a typical Amati storage box in vac-form plastic, with a clear lid. This is compartmentalised to accommodate the numerous packets of fittings within. Dorade’s fitting tray is certainly weighty, with NINETEEN packets of fittings, nails, decals and rigging cord. Fittings include cleats, portholes, winches, eyebolts, ventilators, boom parrels, turnbuckles, snaphooks, rings, pulleys, sheaves and side lights. Where those parts are cast, the finish is very good, with just a buffing needed before priming

Conclusion If you want a project that is a little different from the norm, then Dorade may be just what you are after. With the hull just requiring some remedial finishing before use, plus cutting out the scuppers, you should also find that it’s a relatively quick project that will take a few months instead of running into years. Dorade is a beautiful yacht, and Amati have very much caught her lines here. There is of course a little jigging around between the parts plan, materials and the instructions, and of course with any model this size, you’ll need a reasonable working space, plus some intermediate skills when it comes to tackling the various task required. For the price, she’s also a very attractive subject and will doubtless be a real centrepiece when on display. Quality is typically Amati, and I’m sure you’ll really like this one!

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OutcastJoel

That looks like a beautiful kit, I will follow along with interest.

(I assume the last two photos are of someone else's kit and you haven't actually already finished it?)

2 hours ago, OutcastJoel said: That looks like a beautiful kit, I will follow along with interest.   (I assume the last two photos are of someone else's kit and you haven't actually already finished it?)

it part of the kit review

Good morning everyone

a slow start but the deck planking is going down, i have gone back to using the kit supplied strip wood and it is thicker then my own 

good evening everyone 

good evening everyone

i hit a problem this morning, and took until tonight to think through a decent repair

the after corner  jogling board either side of the cockpit did not meet the run of planking was infact just over 1mm short, it has taken me all day to think through a solution

in this photo i have tried to go round it but you can see the next board will not be wide enough to fill the gap

pulling all the boards off would not solve  the problem, as you can see they are symmetrical, infill would not work, then tonight whilst dog walking, i had a senior moment and thought make the cockpit boards wider, and that what i did, an 6 hour worry and an hour to resolve, im happy again, personally i dont know how this could have been avoided

starboard side cut off

found a piece of strip wood the right width

attached it to the joggling board

both sides done and back in place

good morning everyone

thank you for comments and likes

deck planking continues, 

what ever error i have made is continuing through, even though i still dont know if it was a mistake by me, as i have to do the same repair to the foremast joggle plate

Very nice work and  rapid progress ! I love the model but it's not a kit for the faint-hearted . The ABS hull seems perfect for an rc conversion unlike the fiber glass hulls produced by Amati in the past which were far too heavy.

3 minutes ago, Arjan said: Very nice work and  rapid progress ! I love the model but it's not a kit for the faint-hearted . The ABS hull seems perfect for an rc conversion unlike the fiber glass hulls produced by Amati in the past which were far too heavy.   Regards,   Arjan

the hull is very light and tough with it, kit would suit a new starter, but lol i think the decking would put them off, if however they brought a version out with a printed deck to give the option, it would sell quite well IMO

Good evening everyone

well the decking was completed, without to much fuss, and everything was the same both side, Joggling is a bit of an art, but got better as time went by

then i had a fantastic idea remove the king planks sand them back and re-stain , sort the wonky nibbles out and then varnish the planking before the king plank go back on

brilliant idea (actually it was a very very bad idea, just spent three hours getting them back in, they bear no resemblance to what i have been test fitting over the last few days, god i make some work for myself lol

the stand is temporary for now i want to paint it a different colour to the hull which will be blue

well thats game of thrones watched, we thouroughly enjoyed it all 8 seasons,

so now hope to spend a couple extra hours a day on the build until the next boxset, possibly "Killing Eve"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Killing_Eve

made some progress on the cabin top, i am finding it much harder than anticipated to keep everything clean and new looking, and trying to keep it OOB without extra, although i would like to get some white rigging line,

and the box art shows brass rings on the sails, im not sure if thats correct, these are not included as part of the kit

It's a pleasure to watch your progress ! You might consider the 1/20 Tamiya yacht crew set to add some life to the model once it's finished. This figure set is difficult to get hold of but the figures are essentially the same as those in the pit crew tire changing set. The latter set should still be widely available.

20 minutes ago, Arjan said: It's a pleasure to watch your progress ! You might consider the 1/20 Tamiya yacht crew set to add some life to the model once it's finished. This figure set is difficult to get hold of but the figures are essentially the same as those in the pit crew tire changing set. The latter set should still be widely available.   Regards,   Arjan

thank you for that, great idea

work on the yacht continues, the rudder post fitted, the rudder its self will be secured into position later, it will be fixed in a permanent way

the structure has now been secured inside the hull, i now need to secure the deck to the sides, as i did not want to much 2 part epoxy dripping everywhere

26 holes have been put in, mainly for the scuppers and 4 hawse holes using the PE templete

the scuppers were a real pain, and still need a lot of work to just get two looking the same

i in a position now to think about putting a primer on the hull, but been to wet and windy this weekend

the mast is made up, by off centring different different strip wood to create an oval shape, it going to be tall at 97 cm long, still to be tapered off

today i have brought another build back from the dead and will now also progress the Amerigo Vespucci   

• 4 weeks later...

good afternoon everyone

hawse holes, i have decided to leave in brass, rather than paint them the hull colour

yet again the box art shows a difference to the kit contents, the glosst pictures show a overhang of the capping rail , unfortunately even i i did not put a overhang on they would not have fitted, so and infill was put in at the pointy end

Waterline stripe went on ok, it called for 8mm i could only get 6mm i might put a go faster one on at a later date, i  bought them in 10m rolls of ebay, car pin stripes 

rails fitted went ok

it calls for the mast to be chamfered to fit a 10mm hole in the lower deck, i decided to pin a 10mm dowel to the mast, which worked ok, it was then checked for height, and then adapting to fit the various brass bit, which took a while to get right

thank you for the comments

dont think i have ever built anything, quite like this, yes the box art is very different to the kit, but for an OOB kit the instructions are good, the material is good, everything fits, and it is certainly a nice looking subject, would be even better if i was a half decent builder

the deck fittings have had attention today, the cockpit breakwater, cabin hosing and various bits are in progress on the table, including making your own blocks  

• 7 months later...

this build is now finished, sorry for me not posting progress as i completed her

Great build Kevin, thanks for posting these pics ! By the way, we've got a Spaniel as well  🙂   :

3 hours ago, Arjan said: Great build Kevin, thanks for posting these pics ! By the way, we've got a Spaniel as well  🙂   :       Regards,   Arjan

Good morning @Arjan  this is Dobbie now 5 1/2 the couch potatoe show cocker

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Dorade Yacht (Amati, 1:20)

Availability: In stock

Amati Dorade Yacht Model Kit

Part #AM1605 

Scale 1:20 - Total Length 33.7"

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AM1605 Amati Dorade Yacht

Dorade is considered the very first modern yacht. It appeared in Europe in 1931 at the Fastnet, sailed by the two Stephens brothers Rod and Olin. At first sight Dorade seemed to be too thin and delicate even though it won the Transatlantic Regata doubling Fastned first, all alone. In 1932 it won the Bermuda regata and in 1933 it defeated all participants the Fastnet. At that time the "Times" entitled it as "the smallest amazing yacht of the Ocean regata ever built."

Model ship kit includes prebuilt ABS hull suitable to R/C; wooden inside structure; wooden deck and planking; brass and wooden fittings; photo etched brass details; cloth sails; plans and detailde instructions.

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Dorade – amati.

$ 330.00

About Dorade – Amati

Dorade (AM1605) Length 33-3/4″/ Height 40-1/2″ / Scale 1:20. Display board NOT Included.

Dorade is a yacht designed in 1929 by Olin Stephens of Sparkman & Stephens and built 1929–1930 by the Minneford Yacht Yard in City Island, New York. With Stephens as skipper, she went on to place 2nd in the Bermuda Race later that year. The crew for its first race received the All-Amateur Crew Prize. However, it would be a year later, that she made her name by winning the 1931 Transatlantic Race. She completed a race that takes an estimated 3–4 weeks in just 17 days, earning her crew a parade upon the boat’s return and a reception for Olin Stephens hosted by the mayor of New York. While in England that summer, Dorade also won the Fastnet Race.

In 1932, Stephens handed the boat to his brother, Rod Stephens. Led by Rod, Dorade sailed to victory in the 1932 Bermuda Race.[3] From Bermuda, Dorade sailed back to Norway, down to Cowes, England, and finally back to America after winning the Fastnet Race. The victory in the 1932 Fastnet Race was of substantial significance given the unusually severe weather, several ships feared missing as well as one recorded drowning among the events that unfolded. In 2013, Dorade took first place (after applying her handicap) in the Trans-Pacific race, which she first won in 1936. The yawl is also notable for the introduction of the Dorade box, a ventilator arrangement which became a standard fitting on small sailing craft.

The kit includes prebuilt ABS hull suitable to R/C; wooden inside structure; wooden deck and planking; brass and wooden fittings; photo etched brass details; cloth sails; plans and detailed instructions.

Scale 1:20 – Total Length 33.7″

(AM1605) Length 33-3/4″/ Height 40-1/2″ / Scale 1:20

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Dorade 1931 by ortho85 - FINISHED - Amati - scale 1:20 - Fastnet Yacht

By ortho85 January 22, 2015 in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1901 - Present Day

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Background.

I was "asked" to build something pretty to put on display in our lounge room.  The usual models (i.e. warships, Nelson's Navy, and that era) were deemed unsuitable.

After eliminating most of the wooden kit types available, we settled on "modern" yachts.  The next criterion was size - had to be around 800-1000mm length.  And it had to be pretty!

Didn't leave many available to choose from.

Final choice was 'Olin Stephen's yacht Dorade', measuring 856mm long, and 1028mm high.  This is the link to Wiki - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dorade_%28yacht%29

Again, options were limited for buying the model, but I had good response from Cornwall Model Boats, so ordered from them.  Delivery was very fast - ordered on 6th Jan, received on the 13th - and that's from the UK to Australia!

Box contents looked like this:

There are instructions, diagrams, and full size plans.  The instructions are translated into English, but some notations on the plans are not:

It's a simplified model, with a pre-formed ABS hull, so the packing list is quite short.  The parts all look smart:

And on to assembly, and the usual complications.  More soon.

• avsjerome2003 , tasmanian , GuntherMT and 5 others

Abandoned current build - Model Shipways Bluenose - absolute garbage!

Last build - A-L San Francisco II

Third build - Amati Dorade Fastnet Yacht (1931)

Second build - Model Shipways Armed Virginia Sloop

First build - Artesania Latina Swift 1805

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Thank you so much for starting this fabulous kit. Honestly, it is my favorite boat and I have delayed for a long time purchasing the kit because of the hefty price and the fact that I really do not have any time to dedicate to building. I am so glad you will describe your progress on this Blog. I will follow your progress with avid interest for many reasons:

1) There are no Build log of this kit on the Internet. You would be the first one to describe in details the various steps of assembly.

2) There are almost no pictures of the model completed. After many searches, I was able to only find a handful of them.

3) It is always refreshing to see a model which is not a warship. There have been a few J-Class yachts described here and I believe only one was done to completion. The Dorade will be a fantastic addition to this collection of Build Logs.

I can't wait to see more....

Thank, Yves.

So begins the construction.  Apologies for photo quality - this is a difficult model to photograph!

The first step is to test assemble the framework - without gluing them.  The problem with this is the uneven frames - so I managed to check it upside down:

The material these are made from is 4mm plywood.  A lot different to the usual bass or walnut!  These are some edges after cleaning off the laser burns:

Next step is to mark the position of the cockpit in the frame:

Then plank the cockpit floor using 3mm planks, stained 'teak' and 'mahogany':

This is now glued in to that part of the framework.  And here we hit our first problem - the laser cutting is inaccurate!  The little tongue to the left of the photo above is supposed to fit into a slot in the final frame, according to the plan.  Two things - it doesn't fit (without heavy bending!) and the frame doesn't have the point shown in the plan!

So, after much agonising, I cut that tongue back:

And glued it just below (above?) the slot:

BTW, another whinge, none of the pre-cut parts are numbered on a parts plan - you just have to figure it out.

At this point I needed to see the whole thing the right way up, so I marked and cut the box it came in to receive the irregular frames:

This disclosed the next inaccuracy - about 1mm excess height of a fore/aft support:

Sanding plywood takes forever!

Enough for today,

• yvesvidal , IgorSky , avsjerome2003 and 3 others

You've chosen a beautiful boat to model. Dorade is also one of my most favourite of all yachts; so much so, that I have built my own scratch built model. Please feel free to visit my build log (see my link below). Hopefully, my model could be of assistance.

All the best and I'm sure you'll have an absolute ball bringing your kit to life!!

MY SCRATCH BUILT MODELS ARE:

Splendid Mega Yacht  https://modelshipworld.com/topic/28576-splendid-by-omega1234-scale-1500-mega-yacht/

Majestic Mega Yacht  https://modelshipworld.com/topic/28483-mega-yacht-majestic-by-omega1234-miniature/

Sapphire Mega yacht  https://modelshipworld.com/topic/21088-sapphire-by-omega1234-1388-scale-mega-yacht-66m-8-inch-hull-length/?tab=comments#comment-639898

Genesis - Supersports Mega Yacht  https://modelshipworld.com/topic/18168-genesis-by-omega1234-1300-49m-mega-yacht-8-inches-long-finished/?tab=comments#comment-559026 http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/14141-shadow-by-omega1234-scale-1300-luxury-60m-mega-yacht-8-inches-long/ SHADOW Luxury Motor Yacht

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/11384-majellan-by-omega1234-luxury-37-metre-motor-yacht-miniature-7-inches-approx/ Majellan Luxury Motor Yacht

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9261Rainbow-j-class-racing-yacht/?p=273543 Rainbow J Class Racing Yacht

Mystic Classic Motor Cruiser

Ingomar Schooner: Scratch build

Dorade Schooner : <p>

Lennox Restoration Warship

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9577-pandora-cutaway-dockyard-style-miniature/?hl=pandora

Hi Patrick,

I had seen your log - I think it's the only Dorade in MSW.  Just a leeetle bit smaller than mine!

However, I am so glad you replied, as I would like to elect you my resident expert, and ask your opinion. 

I will soon start the deck planking.  There are no photos to help, but the plans show the planks as one long continuous piece of timber.

They provide 600mm soft wood planks.  The longest part of the deck is over 800mm.  Here is a view of part of the plan showing uninterrupted planks:

This shows the actual plank in relation to the 1:1 plan:

So, from your research, do you think there is a right way to plank the deck?

I can do the traditional, using sections to represent shorter planks.  However, I'm thinking of following a simpler, cleaner line, using just 2 planks from fore to aft - one long, one short, alternating.

On the plan above, I drew lines to roughly show the joins if you look closely.  Here is an attempt to sketch that:

What do you think?  BTW anyone can play!

Thanks, but being your elected "expert" is bit scary! I'll try my best, however.

The owner of Dorade has his own website, http://dorade.org/photos/ which has excellent detailed photos of Dorade. There are even some photos of the deck being repaired as well as many others which show the run of the planks. I've included a couple here for you. You may find referring to this site invaluable; I know because I did.

Hope this helps. I'm sure that other guys will chip in with advice, as well, but most certainly, single lengths of planks is incorrect. Your idea of shorter planks is the proper way.

• tasmanian , IgorSky , ortho85 and 1 other

michael mott

Mind if I pull up a chair.

Current builds   Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8 ;       Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8 ;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects   Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2   Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it .

Patrick - that's really helpful, thanks!

Michael, welcome aboard.

I have a small collection of pictures gathered from the Web and other places. It is always difficult to figure out how long are the planks, but I have a hard time believing that they will be 50 foot long, all in one piece. Here is what I could find:

The first picture is taken from an expensive semi-hull display made by a professional modeler. The model is at the scale of 1/20 and is probably based on the Amati kit, largely improved. You can see that the artist has used multiple planks on the deck.

The second picture is from the real boat, taken recently during one of these carribean regattas, where Dorade excels:

 You can see some of the plank ends, although the work has been extremely well done and it is hard to see the delineation.

The last picture has nothing to do with planking, but symbolizes so well the exhilaration and excitement of sailing such wonderful boat. That young lady seems to be completely into it and is having a blast.

Brett, I hope you do no mind these pictures and the "high-jacking" of your Build Log. If it is too much, let me know and I will remove them.

• ortho85 , IgorSky , dgbot and 2 others

To be young and care free again.

Work in progress USS Maine in cardstock. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7446-uss-maine-by-dgbot-hmv-card/#entry220003

Completed Blockade runner Teazer  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6063-blockade-runner-teazer-by-dgbot-card-stock/#entry175967

Completed  The Monitor Lehigh  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6920-the-monitor-lehigh-by-dgbot-card-model/#entry203680

Completed Kingston Class MCVD  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/10-kit-build-logs-in-progress/

Thanks, Yves.  All input greatly appreciated.

The link that Patrick gave to the real boat's website showed very few joins in the planks.  It, and your photo, make me think I will stick to as few joins as possible.  And their joins are near perfect, so I will try to mirror that.

I'm due to place the first planks today.

• yvesvidal and Omega1234

Thank you for sharing your build.  She is a beautiful ship.  This is on my short list.  Cannot wait to see additional progress.

And so begins planking the deck.  The first bits are pre-cut centre trims.  The usual problem here - where is the true centre of any model?

So I did my best, and, as usual, it was not perfect.  The trim goes on as seen here - parts #1 first, fit around cut-outs on the deck to position them.  Then #2 and #3 complete the collection:

As I came to fit the planks, I realised that I was not dead centre:

Not critical, because the edges will be covered later, but I unglued and reglued part of the first plank.

These planks all have to be bent, but this 3mm timber is easily moulded.  Here we are with 2 planks on one side, and 1.5 on the other:

You can see a bit of the cockpit, with its "mahogany" and "teak" stained planks and sides.

Here I need advice.  I did not sand the edges of the centre trim.  When I wiped off excess PVA glue with a wet brush, the timber has stained:

Any suggestions how to remove the discolouration?  I will be staining this with a "teak" oil based stain, but I think the dirty colour will come through.

• IgorSky , hamilton , egkb and 1 other

Brett, you may want to use more luke warm water with a soft sponge and paper to pump/suck the moisture out.

Another option is to give to the kingplank, a darker coloration, which it has on the real boat (see the picture of the half-hull further up).

It is looking really good so far. I like it very much.

• 2 weeks later...

Well, as Yves suggested, I looked at the real photos, and realised the 'kingplank' (I didn't know that term) was indeed darker timber.

So I stained it with walnut stain/varnish.  Unfortunately my pencil marks kept showing through, so I may have to sand back and re-stain later.

One interesting problem, the size of the boat makes it awkward to clamp.  In the beginning I could use loads of different clamp sizes and types:

Later, I was limited to using my bigger clamps.  Here you can also see

• The stained kingplank
• The planking pattern I used for the outer 12 lines of planks (1 long and 1 short)
• After 12 lines I was able to use a single plank, without joins
• And you get a bit of an idea of the mess I am comfortable working in

These closer views show how weird the planking gets nearer the midline aft.  Also you can see how I've lathered on the walnut stain and layers of sealant!

Here you can see details of the final tiny planks needed in this area:

Now we're getting towards the finish:

By now, I only had 3 clamps that were big enough, so I had to supplement these with magnets:

At last, I was there:

Now we move on to sanding.  But first, a bit of a question.  What colour are the deck planks on the real boat?

In some photos they look natural.  See the semi-hull model above, and this:

And in others they look quite dark, as in the action photo above, and this:

I like the lighter colour, so will probably go with that.

• IgorSky , Salty Sea Dog , hamilton and 4 others

Good question about the deck plank colour. My assumption (and knowing me, it'll probably be wrong), has always been that the darker coloured planks are only dark because the decks were wet with spray, wash, or rain. The reason I say this is because I've seen many photos where the decks appear as different shades due to some of the decks being awash, whilst other planks amidships were lighter because they were dry.

Any how, I could be wrong as I said.

That's what I've noticed, too.

Mine won't be getting wet!

Beautiful deck Brett. Thank you for sharing.

In the sunny and dry picture the planking shows its true colors (so to speak). The action picture shows a very wet deck and thus a much darker wood. I regularly sail and have noticed that many times on teak deck.

• ortho85 and Omega1234

Minor update.  I masked the kingplank, sanded the deck, then sealed it with Feast Watson Sanding Sealer.  I gave it 2 coats of sealer, and sanded between coats, finding areas still needing TLC.

Here it is after the two sealer coats:

Removed the masking tape, sanded again, and this is after a coat of Wipe-on-Poly Gloss:

Rinse, and repeat!  After  two coats of Wipe-on-Poly Gloss:

And now the deck gets put aside while I make the rudder.  Much sawdust is flying from the plywood!

• yvesvidal , hexnut , hamilton and 4 others

Nice work on the deck! You must be pretty chuffed with it.

• 3 weeks later...

So, I made the rudder, but deviated from the plans there.  They would have you installing a 'sternpost' inside the hull, and making holes through the hull to glue the rudder to this:

Almost impossible to get the holes right, so I skipped this, and (later) glued the rudder directly to the hull.

So now came the part I was dreading - gluing the deck/framework into the hull.  After several trial fits, and marking the deck line with the construction in place, it was panic time!

The instructions say to use "epossidic glue".  I interpreted this as 'epoxy', and found that all I had was 5-minute set.  Too fast for the many bits that needed glue.  Off to the hardware store for slower setting - 12 hours!

I should have enlisted help, but, like an idiot, I sailed on and spread glue everywhere, then mucked around trying to get it all together as planned.  Lots of rubber bands to hold the hull against the frame:

Do you like the classy stand I made from a shoe box?

I then painted the hull, using spray on primer, and gloss white:

The tiller you can see sticking up above the deckline broke off shortly after this, and will be reglued much later!

I then had to wait FIVE days for the paint to fully set!  Next came the hawseholes and scuppers.  These have a brass template for shape and size, but are made freehand, on a line that follows the deckline:

Problems were starting to surface:

• The glue had oozed over both sides of the hull
• Some sections had not bonded properly
• The paint was not as glossy as I expected, and was being messed up by my handling
• Areas that I assumed would be covered by some sort of trim, were not, and were standing out like the proverbial.  Here at the stern was the worst:

Some areas I re-glued, and that improved the fit (a bit).  The stern, as you will see, I decided to make my own trim - not perfect.

Trial fitting the bulwarks shows how Amati can really screw up.

They come in a bow section, stern section, and three longer sections.  Here they are blue-tacked in place:

Close up of the fit:

A gap of about 6mm !!!!  How hard would it be to make the sections a little bigger, so I could sand them down?

Now I have to sand them UP?  Or, as my father used to say, use the 'cutting on saw'?

But that's a problem for a little later.

I sanded/scraped the paint back to a better surface, then re-primed, and re-painted.  This time I used "Appliance White", as recommended on this forum.  Again, I waited 5 days for the paint to fully set.

Then I glued on the bulwarks and added a couple of small pieces each side to make up for Amati's stupidity.

Next, another scary bit - marking the waterline, and applying automotive tape at this line.  I used a variant of this idea http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1585-homemade-waterline-markers/#entry33810

The plans call for 8mm tape, but all I could get was 6mm.  Here are shots of my SECOND go at the waterline tape:

The first attempt had a bubble, and was a bit short for some reason.  It may have been my lack of following instructions.  They said the tape has to be applied to a surface at 18C or less.

So I redid it today - and it's currently 37C outside !!!  Cranked up the aircon, and stuck the model in the beer fridge for a bit.  Hope this time works better!

So here's a shot of the current state (on the weird stand they have you make up), and then I'm off to sand and seal the bulwarks.  Then I may repaint, reglue, and drink beer - or go for a swim:

• VonHoldinghausen , Krelis , GuntherMT and 5 others

Six days for the paint to dry??? Wow, that'd test my patience for sure.

Nonetheless, I'm glad to see that you're progressing so well. Inspite of the problems that crop up, there's no doubt that you're getting through the problems and having positive results along the way.

Good to see.

All the best!

Obviously you went through Hell with that phase of the construction. Hey, that is the beauty of working with Kits, especially kits with plastic parts.

I like how you solved the various problems and yes, going with a slow curing epoxy glue was the right thing to do.

I wish you had shown the intricacy of the bulkheads before gluing them in the hull.

Dorade will be a beautiful model and I enjoy tremendously reading your adventure with Amati (is it a Love-Hate relationship?)

As requested, some images/plans of the bulkheads:

The next plan shows you should adjust the fit into the hull, but it seemed OK.  In retrospect I should have used some sort of indicator paste (lipstick?) to refine the fit.

This was the trial assembly:

I don't have a good end-on view, just the stern:

And a side view:

Hope that gives you more info.

• GuntherMT , yvesvidal , IgorSky and 3 others

Thank you Brett. It all looks fantastic.

    I enjoy tremendously reading your adventure with Amati (is it a Love-Hate relationship?)   Yves

Yves - the term is 'schadenfreude' !

No, it's purely a Hate-Hate relationship.  I will never make another Amati model

The (pathetic) "instructions" are littered with 'but first' situations.  There was an episode of Mash, where Hawkeye was defusing a bomb, using Amati-like instructions.  He came to a part which said "cut the red wire", and the next bit said "but first ......................".

Currently I am starting on the deck 'furniture'.  Referring to the photos you linked me to is helping enormously.  The plans are then somewhat clarified.

Back to staining/sanding/swearing.

And an update on the construction of deck ornaments.  I'm using smaller images for the finer items.

First came the main mast coaming, and the belaying pin rack.  Nothing too complex there.  Here they are glued to the deck:

You can also see the brass brackets at the gunwales.  Not sure what they are for, yet.

Next was a skylight.  This caused many headaches.  The wooden frame was awkward, but came good.  

To the frame are attached various brass fittings.  Here, again, Amati falls short!

They come on a pre-formed sheet, with no key.  This mirrors their parts list, which will say "Wood strips  mm3", without any clue to numbers or lengths.

Here is a section of the sheet, the green mat has 1cm divisions:

And the really useful (NOT) part of the plans, explaining this:

This is a hinge, before trimming the hinge-pin:

And some of the parts during construction of the hinges and gratings:

Fortunately I still have some things from my practising days, such as these Jarabak pliers:

After many hours, the skylight was ready.  Here it is, just resting on the deck:

It's interesting how different the colours look in different lighting (with/without flash, respectively):

If anyone has any tips on getting the best colour, please tell me.  Otherwise I might have to do my own research!

• dgbot , egkb , yvesvidal and 6 others

I try to avoid using flash when possible.  You can adjust for the light you are shooting but it could change the color a little.  I try to make sure I have alot of light.  Your skylight is great.  You are really doing a swell job with that photoetch.  

• Salty Sea Dog

Thank you, David.

I might play with the colour settings etc on the camera.

I think these settings might work.  Changed the colour and light profiles.

The colours look more realistic, now?

• yvesvidal , dgbot , usedtosail and 5 others

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Amati Dorade Yacht - Wooden Model Ship Kit

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Brand	Amati
Theme	sailboat
Item dimensions L x W x H	34 x 8 x 41 inches
Material	Plastic,Brass
Seasons	All Seasons

About this item

• Premium, imported model ship kit by Amati!
• Length: 33.7 inches, Height: 40.6 inches Scale: 1:20

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Brand	Amati
Theme	sailboat
Item dimensions L x W x H	34 x 8 x 41 inches
Material	Plastic,Brass
Seasons	All Seasons
Item Weight	17 Pounds
Size	Small
Number of Pieces	1
Style	Brass
Scale	1:20
Manufacturer	Amati
Product Dimensions	34 x 8 x 41 inches
Item model number	AM1605
ASIN	B006AAXNVC
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer	No
Item Weight	17 pounds
Date First Available	November 18, 2011

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Product Description

A small ocean-going yacht with beautiful lines, the "Dorade" was used for regatta racing in the early 1930's. Amati's easy-to-build kit features a one-piece ABS plastic hull fitted with laser cut wooden interior structure. The wooden deck is covered with individual planking strips. A wealth of wooden and turned brass fittings, photo-etched brass detailing, two diameters of rigging line, Dacron sailcloth, and wooden masts provide a museum quality finish. Experienced modelers can equip this fabulous model for radio control. Scale: 1:20 Length: 33.75 inches Height: 40.6 inches (Display board not included.)

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Dorade – fastnet yacht 1931.

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Length	34" (860mm)
Height	41 1/2" (1050mm)
SKU	AM1605

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Dorade Fastnet Yacht 1931 Model Ship Kit – Amati (AM1605)

The Dorade Fastnet Yacht 1931 Model Ship Kit is manufactured by Amati ship model kits. Amati Model Ship Kits are faithful interpretations of the original vessel. All materials are of the finest available and plans and instructions are always excellent and easily followed. Amati has integrated computer design and the latest materials to produce high quality ship model kits.

History of the Dorade Fastnet Yacht 1931

Dorade is considered the very first modern yacht. In 1932 it won the Bermuda regatta and in 1933 it defeated all participants the Fastnet. At that time the “Times” entitled it as “the smallest amazing yacht of the Ocean regatta ever built.” This model kit includes prebuilt ABS hull suitable for R/C, wooden inside structure.

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Amati Dorade Fastnet Yacht 1931 1:20 Model Boat Kit

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Amati Dorade Racing Boat Model Kit.. Dorade is considered the very first modern yacht. It appeared in Europe in 1931 at the Fastnet, sailed by the two Stephens brothers Rod and Olin. At first sight Dorade seemed to be too thin and delicate even though it won the Transatlantic Regata doubling Fastned first, all alone. In 1932 it won the Bermuda regata and in 1933 it defeated all participants the Fastnet. At that time the "Times" entitled it as "the smallest amazing yacht of the Ocean regata ever built." Amati's easy-to-build kit features one-piece ABS plastic hull fitted with a laser cut wooden interior structure. The wooden deck is covered with individual planking strips. A wealth of wooden and turned brass fittings, photo-etched brass detailing, two diameters of rigging line, Dacron sailcloth and wooden masts provide authentic detailing. Four sheets of plans and illustrated instruction manual make building trouble-free. Experienced modelers can equip this fabulous model for radio control. Scale 1:20 Length: 856mm Height: 1028mm

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Amati 1605 Dorade 1931 Fastnet Race 1/20 scale wood ship kit!

Dorade is considered the very first modern yacht. It appeared in Europe in 1931 at the Fastnet, sailed by the two Stephens brothers Rod and Olin. At first sight Dorade seemed to be too thin and delicate even though it won the Transatlantic Regata doubling Fastned first, all alone. In 1932 it won the Bermuda regata and in 1933 it defeated all participants the Fastnet. At that time the “Times” entitled it as “the smallest amazing yacht of the Ocean regata ever built.”

Kit includes prebuilt ABS hull suitable to R/C; wooden inside structure; wooden deck and planking; brass and wooden fittings; photo etched brass details; cloth sails; plans and detailde instructions.

Scale 1:20 – Total Length cm. 85,6

Shipping price is not included.

Please note this item is being sold by The Modeller’s Workshop, a Canadian company based in Quebec and, as such, Quebec and Canadian clients will be asked to pay appropriate taxes.

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#	Option	Price	Sales Tax
1	Price	$600.00	Band 1

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Amati Dorade Yacht

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Amati Dorade is considered the very first modern yacht. It appeared in Europe in 1931 at the Fastnet, sailed by the two Stephens brothers Rod and Olin. At first sight Dorade seemed to be too thin and delicate even though it won the Transatlantic Regatta doubling Fastnet first, all alone. In 1932 it won the Bermuda regatta and in 1933 it defeated all participants the Fastnet.

At that time the “Times” entitled it as “the smallest amazing yacht of the Ocean regatta ever built.”

Kit includes pre-built ABS hull suitable to R/C; wooden inside structure; wooden deck and planking; brass and wooden fittings; photo etched brass details; cloth sails; plans and detailed instructions. Wooden base shown not included.

Scale 1:20 – Total Length cm. 85,6

Weight	10 lbs
Dimensions	36 × 14 × 9 in

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•   Boats Scale Sailboats Discussion Amati Dorade Yacht

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	This is their website: Here's the model sailing: The sheer size (or better, lack of it) makes it a light weather boat without an added fin and bulb. As the kit comes with an ABS hull, converting it to RC should not be too difficult. I was under the assumption it was a plank on frame hull which would make making it RC a bit more complicated. Regards, Jan.
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	Son of Erin Can be converted to a sloop Bombs away! Underway

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amati 1:20 Dorade – 1931

By James H September 25, 2018 in Non-LSM Reviews

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1:20 Dorade – 1931 Amati Catalogue # 1605 Available from   Cornwall Model Boats   for £274.00

Dorade is a yacht designed in 1929 by Olin Stephens of Sparkman & Stephens and built 1929–1930 by the Minneford Yacht Yard in City Island, New York. She went on to place 2nd in the Bermuda Race later that year. The crew for its first race received the All-Amateur Crew Prize. However, it would be a win in the Transatlantic Race that would bring the boat its name. She completed a race that takes an estimated 3–4 weeks in just 17 days, earning her crew a parade upon the ship's return and a reception for Olin Stephens hosted by the mayor of New York. Olin Stephens, the designer, was skipper through 1932 when he handed the boat to his brother, Rod Stephens. Led by Rod, Dorade sailed to victory in the 1932 Bermuda Race. From Bermuda, Dorade sailed back to Norway, down to Cowes, England, and finally back to America after winning the Fastnet Race. The victory of the 1932 Fastnet Race was of substantial significance given the unusually severe weather, several ships feared missing as well as one recorded drowning among the events that unfolded.

Dorade was completely restored in 1997 at the shipyard of Argentario, in Porto Santo Stefano, Italy. In 2013, Dorade took first place (after applying her handicap) in the Trans-Pacific race that she had won in 1936. Edit courtesy of Wikipedia

The size of this box (and it’s huge!) certainly belies the weight of it. You’d expect something as heavy as the Vanguard that we looked at a couple of months ago, but that’s certainly not the case at all. The reason for this will be seen in a moment. The box itself is beautifully presented with a super-glossy lid depicting a finished Dorade model, and of course in a portrait format due to the shape of the vessel. The model itself, at 1:20 scale, has given measurements of 85.6cm long, and 103 cm tall. More images of the completed vessel adorn the sides of the box. Now, lifting that lid reveals an open top lower box, unlike the complete and enclosed boxes of other large Amati kits I’ve looked at. Immediately, your eyes are drawn to the reason why this box is relatively light, and that is the inclusion of a complete ABS hull, and hence the reason why this model is stated as being suitable for RC conversion, although the modeller will have to fathom that themselves, as no instructions are given for that particular path. Internally, the box has a number of card inserts to stop the various contents from jangling around loose. It’s only the components tray itself that seems to be a little freer to move, but thankfully, mine hadn’t spilled open or become dislodged.  

That ABS hull is very nicely moulded, is fairly thin, and super-light in weight. It has a glossy external finish and will just need some buffing and polishing to remove some very minor surface abrasions. The upper edge will need the fuzziness removed from, but again, this is something that’s very east to do, and not a reflection of the quality, which really is excellent.  

First, we take a look at the thick, clear sleeve and the paper contents within. Quite a few Amati releases have a glossy instruction manual, and this has one too, well…at least the cover is glossy, with Italian text giving a short history of the vessel. Inside, the instructions are given in line drawing format, with shading for clarity. All stages have a reference number which can be cross-checked with the written assembly instructions. For these, a glossy Italian manual is provided, with standard A4 sheets provided for both the French and English versions. Going back to the main illustrative instructions, there is some annotation given in all three set languages also. Parts are also clearly identified, whether they be wooden, or one of the many fittings that are supplied. Please note that the timber parts themselves aren’t actually numbered, and you will need to refer to the component identification plan sheet. Construction tips are also given, such as how to mark the waterline.  

As for the fittings etc., these can be identified against a comprehensive parts list that is provided in each language, which gives the part number, name, and specific number of included components. I suggest that each packet of components be put in a zip-lock wallet with the kit identifying code written on, to make it easy to locate the parts needed during construction.

FOUR large plan sheets are included in this release, printed on relatively thin paper. The first three sheets provide large scale drawings of the Bessel, from profiles, to upper elevations and sectional material, plus those all-important fitting positions etc. Annotation on the main plans appears to be in Italian, but the illustrations are clear to see, so for a competent modeller, there shouldn’t be any problems encountered. If the worst comes to worst, just use an online translator tool.

The last of the large plan sheets is the parts guide for the wooden sheets, with all parts being easily identified against the instruction booklet. I’m sure I once read that the Dorade kit provided no parts reference for things such as the internal hull framework etc. and that everything was in Italian. Well, if that was the case, then it certainly isn’t now. Remember that companies like Amati revise their kits from time to time, in instructions as well as parts, so maybe that referred to an old issue.  

A sandwich of timber is now provided as two long plywood sheets are taped together, with the thin ply deck hiding between them. These main sheets are the thickest timber components in the box and provide the modeller with the various internal hull frames and bulkheads, as well as the parts that make up stand (note that no main plinth is supplied, as shown on the box lid). All parts are cleanly laser-cut with very small tags to cut through to remove them from their sheets.

The deck is a full-length piece of thin ply with mast holes in situ, and the rear panel for lower deck access, just needing removal.  

As this is a stylish sail yacht, you need some decent sail material, and a packet of this is included here. You’ll need to cut and stitch these yourself as per plan.

Another thick, clear sleeve contains more timber components, plus a number of other items. One of the timber sheets is a smaller, thin ply sheet with parts associated with the various deck structures, to name but a few. Cutting is again nice and clean, and timber quality is excellent. Parts here are for the various stringers, cockpit sides and edges, funnel flange and deckhouse roof etc.

Two thicker walnut sheets include parts for the rudder, gunwales, belaying pin rack, ventilator tops, skylights, doors, winch steps. Mizzen mast coaming and crosstrees, plus other coamings and side elements. As a number of these parts will be varnished and the wood generally seen, you will need to remove any charring from the laser cutting.  

One packet contains some good quality acetate for the various deck structure windows, and also a piece of what appears to be a glossy dark green card. I can’t identify that as of yet.

Timber strip quality is high and also cleanly cut. This first bundle, held by a thread and paper wrap, is for the deck planking. Remember, no hull planking here! This creamy coloured material will need to have a nice deck caulk effect set between them.

Another bundle of timber includes circular and semi-circular dowel lengths, and more strip timber in Ramin and walnut.  

Several lengths of brass section strip are included, as is a length of thick copper rod.

Amati has included a reasonably sized sheet of brass photo etch. This really must be the shiniest, most polished PE that I’ve ever seen. Totally mirror-like in quality. Here you will find parts that include mast collars, shelves, trolleys, flanges, portholes, jib brackets, sheave boxes, rails, and turnbuckle and ventilator parts, again, to name but a few. Production quality is first rate, with narrow, thin tags holding the components securely until you need to remove them. A separate, smaller piece of PE contains the external and internal hawseholes.

Lastly, we take a look at the plastic tray of components. This tray is a typical Amati storage box in vac-form plastic, with a clear lid. This is compartmentalised to accommodate the numerous packets of fittings within. Dorade’s fitting tray is certainly weighty, with NINETEEN packets of fittings, nails, decals and rigging cord. Fittings include cleats, portholes, winches, eyebolts, ventilators, boom parrels, turnbuckles, snaphooks, rings, pulleys, sheaves and side lights. Where those parts are cast, the finish is very good, with just a buffing needed before priming.  

Conclusion If you want a project that is a little different from the norm, then Dorade me be just what you are after. With the hull just requiring some remedial finishing before use, plus cutting out the scuppers, you should also find that it’s a relatively quick project that will take a few months instead of running into years. Dorade is a beautiful yacht, and Amati have very much caught her lines here. There is of course a little jigging around between the parts plan, materials and the instructions, and of course with any model this size, you’ll need a reasonable working space, plus some intermediate skills when it comes to tackling the various task required. For the price, she’s also a very attractive subject and will doubtless be a real centrepiece when on display. Quality is typically   Amati , and I’m sure you’ll really like this one!

My sincere thanks to   Amati  for the review sample seen here. To purchase, click the link at the top of this article.

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Great stuff James ! I remember in my teens doing a wood cabin cruiser. Almost finished, my younger brother decided to do a happy dance on it. Never tried another boat...... Harv

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