Welcome to Ballenger Spar Systems
Ballenger Spar Systems, Inc. has been producing the highest quality racing and cruising spars for over fifty years. We carry an extensive inventory of extrusion and spar parts for sailboats from eight to eighty feet. Employing state of the art computer aided design, drafting and machining along with good old hand craftsmanship we produce beautiful, long lasting spars that incorporate seamlessly into any project. We offer spars and parts in all stages of completion from mast kits to fully installed, turn-key systems. Our quality is unsurpassed and our prices are very competitive. We work with boatyards, boatbuilders, riggers and individual owners worldwide. All our products carry a limited warranty .
Ballenger Spar Systems has been privileged to be the sparbuilder of choice for many production and custom projects. Some of our production credits include: Bboats (B25, 32), Bill Lee Yachts (SC27, 33, 40, 50, 52, 70), Corsair Marine (F-24 MKII, F-28), Express Yachts (Express 27, 34, 37), Farrier Marine (F22, F9A, F82, F32, F33, F44, F55), Moore Sailboats (Moore 24, 30), Pacific Boats (Olson 25, 29, 30, 911S, 34, 40), USI (Ultimate 20, Antrim 27) among others. We have also worked with many noted Naval Architects and designers to produce spars for their custom projects. Insurance replacement is also a large part of our business and we have extensive information on many production sailboats.
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Revive Your Mast Like a Pro
Each spar section has unique signs of trouble to look for during inspection..
Unobtainium is the metal at the top of every Naval Architect’s wish list. It’s a perfect marine material; light, strong, stiff yet flexible—it’s as inert as gold, but costs only pennies per pound. Sadly, like the search for El Dorado, this metal quest remains more alchemy than chemistry.
For now, aluminum, especially the alloy 6061-T6, is the solid performer. It singlehandedly upstaged spruce as the mast material of choice, and for decades it’s done its job admirably. The alloy isn’t perfect, but by understanding its vulnerabilities, and mitigating those negative characteristics, the functional lifespan of an aluminum spar can be measured in decades not years.
Yes, carbon fiber spars are in many ways the next step forward. But for those intent on being cost effective and not in the hunt for a few tenths of a knot increase in boat speed, aluminum remains the cost effective alternative. In a future issue we’ll focus on carbon’s influence on spars, hulls, rigging, and sails.
Most metal masts are made from long, cylindrical billets of aluminum alloy. Each tube section is created using a powerful ram to force a heated billet (400-500 C) through a set of dies that squeeze and shape the billet into the cross section and wall thickness of a specific spar. Lots of lubricating release agent and 15,000 tons of ram pressure are used to reshape the malleable aluminum.
Billet residue is captured and recycled, while the tube shape undergoes quenching as it moves off on the runout table. The next stop in the line involves a process that draws (pulls) and straightens the tube section.
Once fully cooled, it goes through a T6 heat tempering process that elevates tensile strength from 35,000 to 45,000 psi. Lastly, spars can be anodized, painted, powder coated, or left uncoated. Some masts are extruded in half sections and machine-welded together lengthwise.
There are other aluminum alloys that are better suited to welded hull construction or used for metal casting purposes, but 6061-T6, containing small amounts of silicon, magnesium, and other trace elements, delivers the strength, stiffness and lightness that’s vital when it comes to making spars.
The “T6” alloy is weldable, but doing so anneals and weakens the area that’s welded. This is one of the reasons why, when splicing two sections together, a doubler is added internally that overlaps the junction. Excess heat buildup during the plug welding process that joins the sections is kept to a minimum. Some manufacturers mechanically fasten the junction using machine screws or heavy duty pop rivets.
Unfortunately, aluminum isn’t quite the sequel to tomorrow’s Unobtainium . Aluminum, like steel alloys, show a proclivity to oxidize. But in the case of most steel alloys, oxidation is an ongoing process that only reaches completion when the object in question has become an unrecognizable pile of rust.
Bare aluminum, on the other hand, reveals a very different oxidation curve. A shiny new piece of aluminum develops a speckled, gray, oxidized coating that actually becomes a protective layer, preventing further oxidation. Ironically, this means that the ugliest looking mast in the marina, that non-anodized, unpainted one with the aesthetic appeal of dirty socks, is about as well protected from further deterioration as the spar on the gold-plater with the automotive finish. This is the reason why most commercial mariners restrain from painting the deck and topsides of their aluminum workboats.
The root cause of this aesthetic injustice is the way moisture, especially salt water, finds every microscopic void or coating imperfection and causes aluminum to oxidize around voids and spread beneath the paint layer. By the time blisters appear and paint begins to flake, the sub surface is covered with aluminum oxide and starting to pit.
There are several ways to tame the effect of chloride-rich seawater. But when it comes to a failing painted surface, thorough prep work is essential. Modern epoxy primers help hold corrosion at bay, and single and two-part urethane coatings seal the surface. Hard-anodized or powder coated spars are even better protected, but cost more and are more complicated to refinish when they finally fail.
GALVANIC CORROSION
Galvanic corrosion is aluminum’s second major nemesis, and it stems from an electrical interaction rather than oxidation. Metals are rated on a galvanic corrosion scale that places less reactive (more noble) metals at one end and more reactive (less noble) ones at the other end.
Platinum, beryllium and magnesium lean against one of the bookends of this scale. Magnesium, a plentiful element, is strong and light, 35 percent lighter than aluminum, but way too reactive in the marine environment. Platinum and gold sit at the opposite bookend of reactivity and are so inert that all other metals become anodic in their presence. The metals that lie in between these are relatively ranked according to their behavior in an electrolyte such as seawater.
When it comes to marine applications, there aren’t many platinum thru hulls, but silicon bronze is a pretty good compromise between cost and corrosion resistance. It’s rank on the galvanic scale is toward the more noble end and it behaves as a cathode to less noble metals like zinc, brass, and aluminum, which become anodes in the proximity of more noble metals.
Unfortunately, when dissimilar metals are in direct contact, all it takes is a little rain or morning dew to set up a temporary galvanic cell. Salt spray finds all the nooks and crannies on a sailboat and as the water evaporates it leaves behind crystalized sodium chloride (NaCl). Each raindrop, wave splash or drop of dew rehydrates the electrolyte. And as every galvanic cell demonstrates, wherever two or more dissimilar metals are immersed, a current flows and the less noble material (anode) corrodes causing electrons to flow toward the more noble metal (cathode). The net result is pitting and eventual destruction of the anode.
This prolonged, double-barrel assault on an aluminum spar is most noticeable in areas where dissimilar metals make contact.
There’s an old superstition about putting a couple of silver or copper coins under the mast step, just before stepping the spar. It may have been a good luck charm in the days of iron men and wooden masts. But today, placing a copper penny or silver eagle in a wet mast step completes a highly reactive galvanic cell and creates a corrosion experiment of the first order. The right answer is to do everything possible to separate dissimilar metals. Putting a Delrin strip or dielectric PTFE tape between the hardware and the mast wall really helps.
When installing larger stainless steel hardware on a mast, it’s easy to cut out a gasket from a sheet of 30 mil thick Teflon. Also be sure to use Tef-Gel or a similar dialecrtic grease or sealant on all screw threads.
MAST INSPECTION
Once the mast has been unstepped, positioned horizontally on horses and the headsail furling gear removed, it’s time to take a close look in all the nooks and crannies where things can go wrong. I prefer a bottom up approach and group the mast into four related subsets: base, column, spreaders, and masthead. If the mast is going to be painted, postpone this DIY inspection until all the rigging and hardware has been removed. In either case, scrutinize the spar, hardware and rigging attachment points, especially where high loads are focused.
It helps to have a good magnifying glass, a pick, knife and small scraper on hand to expose and inspect oxidized areas. Place a piece of contrasting color masking tape on each point of concern as you progress toward the masthead. Once the inspection is complete, use a digital camera or smartphone to document the more serious issues. These snapshots provide a record of the location and extent of all corrosion, deep pitting and any cracks emanating from fasteners or hardware. Also record all dents or other impact damage and any sign of ongoing abrasion. Serious damage can be caused by misled wire running rigging and the cycle loading wear linked to variations in tension. Naturally, all standing and running rigging should be thoroughly inspected at this time— a topic of a future article.
AT THE BASE
Keel-stepped masts aboard many cruisers and racers are hidden below the cabin sole and reside in a wet, corrosion prone, bilge ambiance. And it’s another reason why, when a mast is unstepped, the entire support structure, step and the heel fitting deserve a close look. Check for signs of corrosion and make sure the hardware that fastens the heel fitting to the grid or other transverse and fore-and-aft support is in good shape. This structure supports compression loads and also must respond to changes in backstay tension and side loading, not to mention the shock loads of a beat to windward in heavy seas. This is also the time to do what I call spar-oscopy. Take a compact LED flashlight and tape it to the end of a long, thin PVC tube or bamboo fishing pole that will be used to look at the mast interior.
This jury-rigged light on a pole, allows you see signs of internal corrosion and gives you a chance to locate abrasion points where halyards have been misled or are rubbing on hardware. A narrow spot beam will illuminate much of the inner wall of the mast, and if the running rigging has been replaced with thin messengers and the spreader “dog bones” (cross connecting supports) have been removed, you will have a clear sight line up the spar. This is a good time to sort out any halyard overlaps.
Riggers also look for an ailment called “elephant foot.” It’s a descriptive name for the partial crumpling of the spar near the base of the mast, It’s caused by over-compression and/or a wall section that is too thin. This wrinkling is usually just above the mast step, and it indicates a condition just shy of complete failure. It can be linked to prolonged ponding to windward with excessive backstay tension and overpressuring mast jacks. In some cases a new section can be spliced into the spar. By if it’s an older mast and other significant signs of deterioration are present, it may be time to opt for a new spar. Don’t bet the farm on an “it hasn’t failed yet” assumption; hire a skilled rigger to advise on the tough calls.
At first glance, the mechanical challenge linked to stripping hardware from a mast seems rather simple. All you need are a couple of screwdrivers and you’re ready to go. Unfortunately, the gods of galvanic corrosion have placed another obstacle in the sailor’s way.
The threads of those stainless steel screws attaching hardware to base plates or to the mast wall itself have become so corroded they are likely to be screwdriver-proof. Part of the blame goes to original hardware installers, who gave little attention to coating threads with an anti-seize compound and the effect it would have on future maintenance.
So after some years or decades, when it’s time to see what lies underneath the hardware, my first step is to clean all oxidation, paint and grime away from the screw slots and make sure that the chosen screwdriver fills the entire slot. A snug fit is the goal. Then, if a good counter clockwise twist fails to elicit any rotation, it’s time to add a wrench to the screw driver and deploy a good deal more torque.
If this also fails to loosen the bugger, I go to plan B before I ruin the screw slot. Step one is to use a pick to scrape away oxidation around the screw head perimeter. The next step is to douse the area with a penetrant such as PB Blaster, CRC’s Ultra Screwloose, Knocker Loose Plus, Gasoila Free-All or a similar product (see Inside Practical Sailor blog post, “More Boat Tips: Unsticking Stuck Nuts and Bolts”).
Before once again applying torque to the problem, I spend some time using a drift pin and a small ball-peen hammer to tap each chemically soaked fastener. Afterwards I add more penetrant around each screw head. Instead of immediately reverting to a brute force approach, which more often than not leads to a broken fastener or a damaged screw slot, I let the penetrant do its thing and return the next day with my portable impact driver and assortment of screw driver bits. The small Makita impact tool applies a pulsing torque. Combined with a little penetrant and a lot of patience, I’ve found this tool to be very effective on stubborn fasteners. Screw diameters of ¼ inch or less are not hard to snap so use pulsing torque is far better than more leverage and brute force.
If the screw slot is damaged it’s time to switch gears and be ready to drill out the head of the screw and pull the hardware off the remaining stud. A stud remover fitted to a socket wrench works better than vise grips when it comes to backing out a headless screw. But it requires a half-inch or more of the screw stem to be exposed.
The secret to drilling off the damaged head of a screw involves the use of a drill bit made for stainless steel. Place it in the chuck of a low-speed drill that delivers ample torque at slow speeds. Those using a dull bit and a high-speed drill are likely to work-harden the stainless steel screw head, making it even harder to drill. Applying cutting oil that both cools and lubricates a bit will make drilling more effective.
ALONG THE COLUMN
A sailboat mast is like a long electrical fuse: one bad spot and the show is over. Critical failures are usually linked to standing rigging failures and can occur at toggle or tang attachment points, on the spar itself or at spreader tips and roots. Upper shroud tang fittings, near the masthead, need a close look. Check clevis pin holes for elongation and Tball or stem ball cups for deformation.
Sight along the open spans of the spar, where no hardware is attached. It should be free of abrasion marks and signs of halyard shackle damage. It’s surprising how many painstakingly applied paint jobs are ruined by halyard slating cause by poorly set halyards. During this part of the inspection also check exit sheaves, winch bases/pads, mast steps, the bow light, radar bracket and other attached hardware.
The gooseneck fitting and boom vang points of attachment are highstress areas and prone to developing stress cracks. Just below this union, forces converge at the mast partners, the reinforced area where a keelstepped spar passes through the deck. Check here for stress-related damage as well as corrosion issues. If you find signs of extensive pitting or stress cracks, a cosmetic repair can be more harm than help. Have a local rigger with a good reputation take a close look at what you have uncovered.
The mainsail mast track should be straight and the slugs, slides or cars that run in or on them should slide freely. Take an extra slide or car and hand test the track, identifying any points where friction increases. Problems are often caused by burred or dented metal, oxidation in an internal track or misalignment at track joints. Most of these issues are easy to resolve while the spar is horizontal and access is optimized. In-mast or in-boom furling systems each have an inspection and maintenance routine outlined by the manufacturer. Maintaining optimum reliability revolves around following these guidelines. Care should be taken to avoid keeping paint and primer from hampering track function.
Search for causes of abrasion, eliminate the dings and dents from halyard shackles by solving lead problems. And be on the lookout for hairline cracks emanating from fasteners on the leading edge of the mast. Modern spar design accounts for backstay tensioning that induces bend in the mast to adust headsail shape. This bending results in an intentional tension increase on the spar’s leading edge, adding new stress to a column already in compression. Small cracks emanating from fasteners on the leading edge of the mast can be enlarged as the mast is intentionally bowed.
Every sailor who’s painted anything on their boat has plenty of tips to share. But when it comes to useful insider advice, pay more attention to the pros who have learned what works over many years. The good news is that although paint brand allegiance may vary, generic mast prep and painting techniques have a high degree of correlation.
When it comes to the first step in the prep process, every expert sings the same refrain. Remove the hardware if possible, especially if there’s any sign of blistering or paint failure around the edges. If there’s no sign of any corrosion at all, and the fasteners are likely to snap rather than release, carefully prep and tape around the hardware.
Sand, wire brush or sand/soda blast all areas where corrosion has pitted or left the surface covered with white aluminum oxide. Take a close look at the heel of the mast and the mast step itself. Both need to be free of corrosion and not damaged by metal loss or physical damage. The same goes for the area where spreaders, stays and shrouds attach. The masthead fitting also deserves close scrutiny. Inspect the aluminum around where the sheave axle(s) attach. A corroded aluminum masthead truck, with deterioration around the support for headstay or backstay toggles, can spell disaster. This corrosion inspection is a good time to catch pending problems.
In most cases, OEM painted spars hold up quite well, especially those that have been carefully prepped, epoxyprimed and LPU top coated. Eventually, weathering causes the gloss to disappear, but the paint retains excellent adhesive quality. If you’re facing such a challenge and there’s little or no sign of physical damage or corrosion around hardware, there’s nothing wrong with simply renewing the top coat.
In such cases, begin with a wash and/ dewax cleanup, sand with 220/320, remove dust, tape off hardware, solvent wipe and apply of two coats of the same (or similar type) topcoat, scuff-sand between coats.
However, if there are dings, scrapes or areas where corrosion has damaged the coating or areas where paint adhesion is failing, a decision must be made between spot repairs and complete mast redo. The latter involves removal of most or all of the hardware and stripping off every bit of the old paint. A spot repair approach is much less labor intensive, but if corrosion is rampant, spot repairing can be counterproductive.
During the prep process it’s essential to clean and degrease the surface before doing any sanding or other abrasive work. I prefer to use the solvent/cleaner of the paint manufacturer I’ve chosen. Clean cotton rags work best, and by meticulously wet wiping the surface you eliminate contaminants that can be forced into the substrate during sanding.
In the case of a repair and recoat effort, once the corrosion and flaking paint have been removed, feather in the adjacent painted mast surface with 60- 80 grit paper to achieve a toothy grip for the epoxy primer that follows. When doing a spot repair, this taper zone becomes an important test of one’s ability to feather an edge and hide the old to new paint junction. Seamless blending of the primer sets the stage for a successful, smooth transition spot repair. If, as you sand the boundary, the old paint continues to flake rather than allow you to feather the edge, It time to switch gears and consider removing all the paint.
An important step in painting aluminum is to get an epoxy primer on a freshly sanded and clean surface as soon as possible. When painting an entire spar, It helps if you can set up a way to hang the mast at waist level so it can be rotated in order to access all surfaces efficiently.
PRODUCT UPDATE
Interlux recommends doing the degrease wipe down with their 202 Solvent Wash prior to sanding. Then prime the spar using their InterProtect 2000E/2001E, thinned 15-20% with their brush or spray reducer. It’s a user friendly epoxy primer and easy to sand. Two coats makes the 60-80 grit sanding marks disappear. Both single-part Bright Sides and two part Perfection deliver a smooth glossy finish. The former is easier to apply and the latter is more durable and long lived.
Pettit offers a complete lineup of aluminum paint and prep products. Their approach kicks off with a solvent clean and a medium grit emery cloth sanding. When the residue has been removed, a thin coat of #6455 Primer should be applied. Two hours later, EZ Prime #6149 is applied and when it’s cured and sanded with 220 (repeat if necessary). Finish with two coats of Easypoxy.
Awl Grip recommends an initial cleaning with their surface cleaner T340 followed by a vigorous Scotchbrite scrubbing with Deoxidine and a thorough rinse to remove all residue. When dry prime with 30-Y-94 and within 3-6 hours, without sanding, apply 545 epoxy primer. Sand 220/320 and top coat with Awl Craft 2000.
If the spar was previously anodized precede the above with a 10-minute wash using a 33% solution of natrium hydroxide. Don’t let the solution dry on the spar. Immediately water-rinse and follow the prime and paint process above.
Spreader junctions are like a dangerous highway intersection, a point where competing forces interact and where there are no traffic lights to tame the flow. Rigging tension on the windward side of a sailboat cause compression loads to increase in the windward spreader(s) and decrease in the leeward spreader(s). Discontinuous standing rigging optimizes wire/rod diameter in each panel section, but it also complicates spreader tip hardware. All too often, spreader boots or a well-meaning taping effort, ends up looking like a response to an ankle injury. Even worse it creates a moisture-holding corrosion bath that enhances galvanic corrosion and oxidation. The goal is to avoid going overboard with padding and tape and making sure that water will not collect around spreader tip hardware.
Spreader bases are another realm of serious concern due to cycle loading, multidirectional forces and dissimilar metal contact. Swept back spreaders, especially those that eliminate the need for a backstay, cope with even greater loads. So when the rig is un-stepped, check how the spreader attachment was engineered. Was a doubler added to the mast wall and/ or were cutouts installed and hardware added to connect spreader pairs? In either case, corrosion in key load path areas can greatly decrease the spar’s ability to cope with the fluctuating loads. It’s no surprise that masts often break just above a set of spreaders.
AT THE MASTHEAD
Once launched, it’s hard to see what’s going on at the masthead. This means that when the spar is down it’s time to get a really close look at the mast truck and its associated fittings. Begin by disconnecting the standing rigging and checking the geometry of every hole that supports a clevis pin. The rule of thumb is: round is good, elliptical is bad. This goes for the tangs that connect upper shrouds to the spar as well as the holes in a welded aluminum masthead fitting. The loss of an upper shroud while beating to windward usually brings down the mast, so extra attention in this area is time well spent.
Carbon spar manufacturing mimics the engineering pioneered in the aerospace industry. They have become an essential component In the most competitive ranks of sailboat racing and caught on with cruising sailors who own lighter, more performance oriented sailboats.
Most spars are built on metal mandrels by carefully aligning layers of prepreg unidirectional and multi-axial carbon fiber from masthead to heel. Intermittently, a debulking process is used to squeeze the layers together, and after the laminate schedule has been carefully aligned, it’s placed in an autoclave. Here the epoxy prepreg in the carbon material becomes viscous and cures under controlled heat and air pressure. These materials are expensive, the labor is time-consuming and the quality control must be rigorous.
One of the major advantages of carbon mast building is the ability to engineer the layup to coincide with the load paths and stresses in the structure. Finite element analysis has helped identify how and where forces are transferred through the tube section. Weight is saved by only adding material where it is needed.
A cruising boat designer may opt for extra reinforcement that increases the safety factor by raising the breaking point of the material. Racing sailors have validated the performance uptick associated with carbon spars. Carbon/epoxy laminates do not suffer from corrosion but they are anything but immune to UV light. It’s one of the reasons a white primer and LPU topcoat is the sensible finish.
Minor impact damage and abrasion from poorly led running rigging is fairly straight forward to repair. But damage linked to sailing loads that cause major cracks in the laminate or interlayer delamination is another story altogether. In these cases, the spar builder or a composites shop engineer has some tough decisions to make. The big challenge is when a high-tech laminate bundle fails it’s very difficult to scarf in a new section that will handle all the loads in a manner that’s equivalent to, let alone, better than new. Some insurance companies put restrictions or higher premiums on coverage of carbon masts.
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LEADERS IN EVERY DETAILEvery Seldén rig is carefully thought out, down to the last detail. All the way from the materials and functions of the different parts of the rig, to dimensioning the right rig for each individual boat. Each component contributes to the performance of the whole rig. That is the Seldén way – experienced yachtsmen behind every aspect of design, product development and production. CONVENTIONAL MASTS FOR YACHTS Spareparts and aftermarket serviceSince 1992 we have engraved a unique code into the mast section. We call it the mast ID number and you find it at the lower end of the aluminium section. This number tells us when your mast was built and what parts were used all the way down to nuts and bolts. The mast ID number includes the designation of your mast section which enables you to find part numbers in our catalogues and sparepart lists, all to be found under Technical Support. A corresponding number is to be found in the forward lower end of your boom. Best of all – take a close look at the components on your mast and you will find part numbers on them. Can it be simpler? Complete rigs and spareparts are sold by our World wide network of independent rigging companies.  Our conventional masts for 26-80 feet yachts are divided in two categories. The longitudinal oriented sections and the lateral oriented. Which one we select depends on the chain plate locations of the boat and number of spreaders. LONGITUDINAL MAST SECTIONThese sections are used for rig configurations with in-line spreaders or moderate spreader angles. The relationship between the length / width is 1,9 in order to create longitudinal stiffness allowing higher forestay load tensioning the backstay. Running backstays can often be avoided and the risk of mast pumping is also reduced. These rigs normally come with multiple pairs of spreaders and they are designed for the popular MDS sliders (Multi Directional Support). LATERAL MAST SECTIONFor rigs with large spreader angles, lateral stiffness is of higher importance than longitudinal stiffness. This is the result of a large spreader angle creating longitudinal stability, whereas the lateral stability is achieved by the geometry of the mast section. This makes for a mast section which is wider and rounder than the corresponding longitudinal section and therefore the number of spreaders can be reduced. These sections are popular for upgrading a boat from the 1970-90’s with a traditional style single spreader rig, but still with all the benefits of modern functions such as the Inner Wheel Sliders (IWS).  WHAT IS A KEELBOAT?Seldén’s definition of a ”keelboat” is a boat sized in between a dinghy and a yacht, with a length of approximately 18-28’. These boats often have a 50% ballast ratio. Consequently, the weight of the keel represents half of the total displacement.  Tradition and developmentSeldén’s seven aluminium keelboat sections feature a wealth of sophisticated and functional solutions, originating from the dinghy range and the yacht range. The sections are extruded and anodized and they are all available with a tapered top as an option. Let us design your keelboat rig or ask us for our One-design solutions.
FURLING MASTSA seldén furling mast lets you operate your mainsal from the cockpit. simple and convenient. Its unique features for reducing friction and initial sail resistance make furling and reefing child’s play. And it also makes sailing safer and far easier for you and your crew. With a powered furling mast and a powered Furlex jib furler it is even easier to set, reef and handle your sails. You can work your sails single handed, without leaving the helm. Powered systems are available for yachts ranging from 35 to 70 feet. MORE ENJOYABLEDue to the easy handling, with a furling mast you will do more sailing and less motoring. A Seldén furling mast makes it easy to unroll and set your mainsail. Rolling it in is just as quick and easy. As your sail is neatly stowed out of the way the instant it is rolled in, you have a clear view when manoeuvring under power. You can set your sail to suit the weather conditions, from the safety of the cockpit. By furling the sail vertically into the mast, you don’t have to furl very much to get a substantial decrease of the sail area. You hoist the sail just once a season, so a small crew can manage a much larger boat. WELL BALANCEDThere are no fixed reef points, so the number of combinations between furling genoa and main are unlimited.  THE SELDÉN FURLING PRINCIPLEThe wide sail slot allows for vertical battens and a positive roach of the main sail and the sailgroove on the luff extrusion is located asymmetrically to help the sail furl easily around the extrusion. The furling system is based on Seldén’s proven technology. Geared line driver winch, tensioned luff extrusion and the patented load distributor of the halyard swivel. All to make furling an easy and fast operation. The Seldén furling masts come with twin cable conduits, enabling the cables to run freely and well protected from all running rigging. The cable conduits also facilitate cable replacement.  EASY TO OPERATEThere is an outhaul line for rolling out the sail, and an endless line for rolling it in. It’s simple as it sounds. Or if you wish, you can operate the sail at the mast using a winch handle. The geared reefing winch mechanism runs on ball bearings, so it takes little effort to roll in the sail. Greasing holes in the mast facilitate maintenance. Two oval holes on the port side of the mast allow for easy access to the tack attachment, sail fees, tensioning screw and halyard swivel. Just remove the composite covers and the rest speaks for itself. You can inspect the halyard swivel and carry out annual maintenance through the upper access hole. ABSORBS ALL SAIL FORCESThe outhaul cars are fitted with horizontal and vertical wheels, enabling them to absorb forces from every direction. TURNING BLOCK FOR CONTROL LINESTurning blocks at the base of the mast are designed to enable the ready-spliced, endless line to be easily threaded into position. Seldén deck blocks have the same feature.  LOW FRICTIONThe sail groove on the luff extrusion is located asymmetrically to help the sail furl easily around the extrusion. In addition, the rotating luff extrusion is tensioned and fitted with ball bearings top and bottom. This reduces friction between the sail and the inside of the sail compartment.  UPGRADE YOUR MAST TO ELECTRIC DRIVETo make sail handling easier for a small crew we have synchronized an electric motor in the mast with a newly developed electric winch for the outhaul, E40i. Push a button and the sail comes out in a controlled fashion as the winch adjusts the outhaul tension in relation to the motor in the mast. This is what we call Synchronized Main Furling.  IN-MAST FURLING MOTORConverting a manually operated furling mast is quite easy. Basically, the vertical shaft in the original line driver is replaced for a longer version which is connected to the motor. A clutch allows the motor to be disconnected for manual operation, if ever needed. The motor is completely integrated in the mast and connected to the Seldén Power Supply and SEL-Bus system. The motor can be retrofitted to Seldén furling masts type RB (~36-43’ yachts). How to upgrade a furling mast to electric drive  PUSH BUTTONSPush the ”OUT” button and the sail will start to unfurl. The E40i winch will tension up the outhaul while the mast motor feeds out the sail. The speed is increased when the ”IN” button is pushed in addition to ”OUT”. To reef, just release the outhaul from the winch and push ”IN”.  E40i ELECTRIC WINCHThe E40i winch is built up around an electric motor which is totally integrated in the drum. Only three thin cables are protruding to lead through the coach roof or the deck, no large cutouts and no external motor or gearbox. This makes for uncompromised headroom down below which is normally not the case with electric winches. The three speed operation provides a high speed gear, a moderate gear and a low speed gear for fine tuning. It is a two finger operation to start the winch and to swich gear, so a single-handed sailor can helm while adjusting the trim. HOW IT’S CONNECTED
Seldén Carbon fibre masts – the perfect mix of Craftsmanship and modern production Technology FOR EVERYONE THAT CANNOT RESIST SPEEDCarbon composite combines stiffness and strength with low weight. Seldén low-weight carbon spars have accentuated longitudinal stiffness. This means that forestay tension can be substantially increased. All experienced racing sailors know what this means in terms of increased upwind performance. The combination of greater stiffness and reduced weight will bring you beyond the speed limits.  MANDREL FILAMENT MOULDINGOur carbon spars are designed using the latest finite element analysis backed by many years of solid engineering experience. Our unique production method gives a unique look. We call it Mandrel Filament Moulding (MFM). The process is fully automated and computer controlled for ultimate accuracy, repeatability, efficiency and that stunning ‘Viper’ pattern. Seldén produce over 400 carbon masts per year as well as booms, poles and bow sprits for boats including high performance skiffs, racing keelboats, IRC race boats and some of the world’s most prestigious cruising yachts. With more sailors choosing Seldén carbon spars, the pattern is obvious. 
SELDÉN DINGHY RIGS – GOING FOR GOLD SELDÉN PROFILESWorking hand-in-hand with the world’s top dinghy sailors, carefully analysing their input and feedback, enables us to produce the ultimate Seldén dinghy rig for every boat. Ever since Seldén acquired Proctor in 1997, we have improved and developed the already acknowledged excellence of the Proctor products, so that they are now, like all other Seldén products, the best of the best. Our innovative design, attention to detail, advanced testing and manufacturing have won Seldén the trust of dinghy sailors all over the world and has contributed to numerous Championship medals.
SELDÉN DINGHY CARBON RIGS– the Mast you buy will perform as well for you as it will for a World Champion Sailor! IN-HOUSE SPECIALIST DESIGN TEAMSeldén has the design expertise and software to enable us to create a mast to meet exacting performance requirements. During the design process the position and alignment of each fibre is precisely calculated so as to meet the required bend characteristics. This detailed design is then used to program and control our filament winding equipment. The combination of meticulous care, long experience, and exact specifications enable us to achieve optimum performance for minimum weight. Computer controlled laminate lay-up Carbon filaments are wound around a mandrel (male mould), under controlled tension, via a designated winding program supplied by the design team. FILAMENT WINDING, a computer-controlled process (CNC), guarantees consistent and accurate filament fibre orientation from spar to spar. Carbon filaments can be laid from 0° (uni-directional) to leave 89° (hoops) and at all angles between to produce a wide range of bend characteristic requirements. This accurate alignment of composite filaments is vital to the performance characteristics of a carbon spar. Fibres are laid under tension, which means that we can make the most efficient material choice and supply the lightest spars on the market. This process gives a Seldén spar a level of tube consistency unattainable via any other composite manufacturing technique. Hence, the mast you buy will perform as well for you as it will for a world champion sailor!  USE OF PRE-PREG CARBONOnly the highest grade pre-preg tows of T700 or TZ carbon fibre are used to give sailors the best stiffness-to-weight spar. This, in combination with our filament winding process, enables the highest fibre-to-resin content pre-preg to be used. The aerospace grade pre-preg has a UV stabiliser in the resin system to give the spars a guaranteed long life, even in the sunniest of climates. More fibres and less resin, mean lighter, stiffer masts. AUTOCLAVE CUREDThe consolidation of the material to form a ready-to-assemble carbon tube is completed in our in-house 20-metre long autoclave. The combination of heat and pressure to cure the resin and consolidate the pre-preg material ensures a strong and consistent final product.
 Cookies | Legal and Privacy | Copyright © 2024 This site uses cookies Read more about cookies .  U.S. Spars --->U.S. Spars is your source for Z-Spars for Masts, Booms, Rigging, and all associated hardware “ Sailing starts with U.S. Spars” U.S. Spars is part of Z-Spars Group in France, the World’s Largest Spar Builders. Z-Spars has been supplying the sailing world with quality products since 1973. US Spars supplies quality brands like Hunter, Beneteau, Com-Pac and Performance Cruising. We would be happy to quote your mast, boom, and rigging needs. US Spars takes pride in excellent customer service for Business or Individual customers. Please take advantage of our online ordering and fast shipping for all of your small part needs using our easy to use boat look-up to find your boat model and view a diagram with part numbers for easy ordering. For quotes on special orders please use our easy to use quote page for a speedy response. U.S. Spars looks forward to getting you back on the water! Questions? – send us an email at [email protected] or [email protected] Comments are closed.
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Klacko Spars of Oakville, has been in business since the late 60's. Our company started as an in-house metal fabricator for C&C Yachts and eventually grew to supply masts, tanks, railing, and related products to notable yacht builders such as Hinterhoeller Yachts, CS, Express Yachts, Tartan Yachts, Windship, and Contour Yachts, etc... The original founder and current owner of Klacko Spars, Danny Klacko, brings over 50 years of personal experience to the company. He has brought together a team of professionals who each have at least 30 years of experience in the sailing and power boating industry. Together, they work hard to deliver their promises. You will always find Danny Klacko actively working in the back of the shop on one of our projects. Klacko Spars keeps growing as well as making products for builders and independent sailors around the world. We have a world-wide reputation for our aluminum and stainless steel custom work. Over the years, we have built products such as sail boats, power boats,12 metre masts and 100ft. masts for catamarans. Presently, Klacko keeps broadening its horizons by creating and fabricating unique structures for exhibit companies. Be it a water tower for a film exhibit, a DNA exhibit for a pharmaceutical company or a full-size airplane for a theme park - there is nothing our team of professionals cannot do.
 ©2024 Klackospars. All Rights Reserved. WEB Design Toronto by Vestra Inet . Attach file (Optional) Optional page titleOptional page description text area..., header content region, insert text, image or banner ads here, or just delete this text and leave this area blank.  1/25 (36") Scale America's Cup high performance model sailboat 5ft Replica of the 1962 Americas Cup 12 Meter 45" Scale Model of the Olympic Star Boat J Class Boat-Shamrock V1/16 (8'-10')Scale Replica of the 1930's America's Cup Class Yacht RMG Sail WinchesHigh Performance sail control winches 
Short DescriptionTeardrop Aluminum Mast Extrusion 72" Long and Black Anodized or natural finish Due to the length of the extrusion additional shipping cast are added to the order. Contact us for a shipping cost quote. This is where you would add your text, images, or advertising banner  Copyright © 2021. Chesapeake Performance Models LLC. All Rights Reserved.. Log in or Sign upYou are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser . Sailboat mast adviceDiscussion in ' Sailboats ' started by patrscoe , Dec 28, 2011 .  patrscoe Junior MemberI purchased a 84' S2 11.0A sailboat this past Fall and while reviewing the log, I notice the original owner removed 30" of the mast, apparently from the top as all the rigging looks like the original factory location. The reason sounds like a bridge clearance problem and had to reduce the mast to get safely under it. I am going back and forth on what I should do with this. I don't want to spend $6k on a new mast and rigging, plus another $4k or so on sails - although I am planning to purchase a new mainsail this winter. Original Specifications: 36' sailboat, 11.9' beam, 15000 lbs displ Rig Dimensions: I 46', J 15', P 40' and E 14' Forestay 345 SF and Mainsail 280 SF 49' bridge clearance My current P is 37'-6" http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=1970 I have contacted the original Spar manufacturer for perhaps a identical mast extrusion for installing a sleeve and mast extension but stock this profile anymore and if they have to order this, it will be very expensive. I have a few thoughts: 1. Leave the mast alone, replace the mainsail with a full batten (as stated, I was going to purchase a new mainsail this winter as the current one has been recut too many times). I am not really happy with this since I am a little OCD about things. 2. Provide a 12" or 18" (not the full 30") mast extension by having a metal shop to fabricate a thicker/stronger custom alum extension. The mast will slide into a sleeve connect to the custom alum extension, rivet the two together. Profile of the fabricated extension would be very similar in shape but I am sure it will not be exactly. I would relocate the lower shrouds and spreaders, and replace the backstay, forestay and upper shrouds. Relocate the boom gooseneck. My new mainsail would match the new dimensions. Genoa furling remain as is besides extending the shaft / replacing the inner forestay. 3. Identical to #2 but provide a custom alum fabricated extension from the foot to just below the cabin ceiling, cut the existing mast to match original length and I will end up replacing the furling (genoa). Approximate budget would be close to $6k. Not sure if this is worth going to this extensive work. 4. Identical to #1 but also installing a Solent Stay system. This would add more sail area as these sailboats can be a little sluggish in light air due to the beam and displacement. Any thoughts or advice, or any other options that I have not thought of? Patrick michael pierzga Senior MemberId leave the mast alone and concentrate on fitting the biggest mainsail possible. Big roach. Perhaps modifing the masthead crane to accomadate the roach. With the headsail...perhaps lower the headstay a few inches and use a slightly shorter luff length jib, then fit a masthead CODE type asymetric, jumbo , roller headsail for reaching. These sails are very powerful in the 60 to 110 awa range By replacing the mast head crane to accomendate a increased roach, could the crane be extended a few inches or so to gain more mast height? I never seen anyone do this before. The masthead crane modification wont gain extra hoist it will allow a bigger mainsail head and leeach. Id have to look at your rig geometry to see if you could modify the crane. Inline rigging or aft swept spreaders ? For you its best to contact your local mast builder...propose a masthead crane modification to hang a bigger roach..leach...mainsail and listen to his observation. The masthead crane is your backstay and headstay attachment so this modification must be well concieved. Lengthning your mast plus new sails and standing rigging is a big hole in your bank account. Id keep her stubby then work on other ways to bring up performance. Adding big sails, polishing the bottom, Fairing the keel or reskinning a rudder are cheap. The masthead pictured is to accomadate a full roach mainsail Attached Files:Underwater.jpg.  Perm Stress Senior Memberpatrscoe said: ↑ I purchased a 84' S2 11.0A sailboat this past Fall and while reviewing the log, I notice the original owner removed 30" of the mast, apparently from the top as all the rigging looks like the original factory location. The reason sounds like a bridge clearance problem and had to reduce the mast to get safely under it. I am going back and forth on what I should do with this. I don't want to spend $6k on a new mast and rigging, plus another $4k or so on sails - although I am planning to purchase a new mainsail this winter. Original Specifications: 36' sailboat, 11.9' beam, 15000 lbs displ Rig Dimensions: I 46', J 15', P 40' and E 14' Forestay 345 SF and Mainsail 280 SF 49' bridge clearance My current P is 37'-6" http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=1970 I have contacted the original Spar manufacturer for perhaps a identical mast extrusion for installing a sleeve and mast extension but stock this profile anymore and if they have to order this, it will be very expensive. I have a few thoughts: 1. Leave the mast alone, replace the mainsail with a full batten (as stated, I was going to purchase a new mainsail this winter as the current one has been recut too many times). I am not really happy with this since I am a little OCD about things. 2. Provide a 12" or 18" (not the full 30") mast extension by having a metal shop to fabricate a thicker/stronger custom alum extension. The mast will slide into a sleeve connect to the custom alum extension, rivet the two together. Profile of the fabricated extension would be very similar in shape but I am sure it will not be exactly. I would relocate the lower shrouds and spreaders, and replace the backstay, forestay and upper shrouds. Relocate the boom gooseneck. My new mainsail would match the new dimensions. Genoa furling remain as is besides extending the shaft / replacing the inner forestay. 3. Identical to #2 but provide a custom alum fabricated extension from the foot to just below the cabin ceiling, cut the existing mast to match original length and I will end up replacing the furling (genoa). Approximate budget would be close to $6k. Not sure if this is worth going to this extensive work. 4. Identical to #1 but also installing a Solent Stay system. This would add more sail area as these sailboats can be a little sluggish in light air due to the beam and displacement. Any thoughts or advice, or any other options that I have not thought of? Patrick Click to expand... I'm about 90% sure they cut the top. One sign is that the goose neck is welded to the mast and I don't see any areas on the mast of this relocation. The sail track will need to replaced. The common sense thing would be to live with it, buy a new main and a feathering prop. I need to look at all my options. That's why I was considering to provide a simple 12" or so, bottoming extension and size the new main accordingly. Some of the rigging will need to be modified but maybe that's a good thing , replacing old standing rigging and turn buckles.  PAR Yacht Designer/BuilderHave you checked with Dwyer Mast? They've purchased many of the former production boat extrusion dies and may very well have the piece you need. powerabout Senior Membermichael pierzga said: ↑ The masthead pictured is to accomadate a full roach mainsail Click to expand... patrscoe said: ↑ I'm about 90% sure they cut the top. One sign is that the goose neck is welded to the mast and I don't see any areas on the mast of this relocation. The sail track will need to replaced. The common sense thing would be to live with it, buy a new main and a feathering prop. I need to look at all my options. That's why I was considering to provide a simple 12" or so, bottoming extension and size the new main accordingly. Some of the rigging will need to be modified but maybe that's a good thing , replacing old standing rigging and turn buckles. Click to expand... Yes, I checked with Dwyer, JSI, Rig-Rite, etc... Schaefer Marine fabricated the masts in 1975 - 1978, Hall Spars started in 1980 but stopped in 1982 and only fabricated the boom from their after. Offshore and another fabricator took over. The 11.0 mast was a performance mast extrusion not a cruising mast. Hall has a similar profiles instock but not exact. That means they need to purchase 5,000 to 10,000 lbs min for additional stock from their extrusion fabricator (which is not cost prohibitive). What I have been told is that whatever spar manufacturer that has the die, then they have the patent on it and no one else has the "exact" profile, similar but not exact. At least that is what I have learned but talking to about 6 spar companies and 3 rigging companies. *** Would installing a rigid boom vang eliminate the tacking problem with a slightly larger roach on your mainsail? *** Any thoughts on a Solent Stay? *** If I don't proceed the mast extension, anything else that might help? - Adding feathering prop - New mainsail with increased roach with perhaps converting my boom vang to a rigid to eliminate my topping lift Michael, You stated "With the headsail...perhaps lower the headstay a few inches and use a slightly shorter luff length jib, then fit a masthead CODE type asymetric, jumbo , roller headsail for reaching. These sails are very powerful in the 60 to 110 awa range" What is a masthead CODE? Is it a larger masthead with a headstay arm that extends out more? Sorry, not sure what your intent is here?
Chuck Losness Senior MemberIt is not uncommon for owners to order a boat with a shorter mast. Especially in areas known to have higher wind speeds. 2 feet shorter was the typical amount to shorten a mast. On the west coast this was very common in San Francisco. PHRF even has handicaps for boats with short rigs. My recollection is that the rating adjustment for a short rig was 6 seconds per mile but no more than 12 seconds per mile. What that means is if you raced your boat against a stock boat over a 10 mile course the stock boat would get to the finish 1 to 2 minutes before you would. That's one or 2 minutes in probably 2 hours of sailing. We are talking about trivial increases in speed. In heavy air there would probably be no difference in boat speed. How many thousands of dollars do you want to spend to go at best marginally faster than what you have now? If you are not going to race, then you will most likely turn on the engine in light airs and you would not receive any benefit from increasing the length of you mast. Before you do anything you need to go sail your boat and get to know its handling characteristics. Does it have lee helm? Or weather helm? How does it sail in light air, medium air and heavy air? What is the typical wind in your area? Are you going to race the boat? And the questions goes on and on. You will need all this information and more before you can even start to think about making changes to your mast. Without this information you will just be shooting in the dark as to whether the perceived benefit would be worth the cost. You will find "experts" who will only be too happy to take your money while they experiment with your boat. Be careful and good luck Weight of 20m sailboat mast How to de-mast a sailboat permanently Mast Aft Rig Sailboats For Disability?19' Lighting sailboat mast steppingLightning Sailboat Mast Internal Line Schematic Can someone help me identify this 1977, 7.7m sailboat in Europe?fishing sailboat Sailboat Design and Operation and Improvements to Rowboat->sailboat conversionIdentify sailboat designer/builder?
~ Back to Spars Main Page ~  Measurement GuideStanding Rigging Measurement Guide All standing rigging is measured from center of attachment pin to center of attachment pin. It is very important to take this measurement with all turnbuckles adjusted halfway open.  Mast Measurement Guide The length of the mast is measured from the base of the extrusion to the top most end of the extrusion. Mast Steps and Mastheads are not included in this measurement. All fittings are measured from the base of the extrusion upward to the center of the fitting. The Sail Feed is measured from the base of the extrusion to the lowest point on the Sail Feed. Boom Measurement Guide The length of the boom is measured from the inboard end of the extrusion to the most outboard end of the extrusion. Goosenecks and outhaul castings are not included in this measurement. All fittings are measured from the most inboard end of the extrusion to the center of the fitting. Boom Sail Feeds are milled starting at the most inboard end of the boom unless specified otherwise. Spreader Measurement Guide The length of spreaders are measured from the most inboard end of the spreader to the most outboard end of the spreader not including brackets or spreader tips.  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Quality Sailboat Masts, Booms, Hardware and Rigging Since 1963. Dwyer Mast & Rigging manufactures high-quality sailboat masts, booms, hardware, and rigging. Originally founded in 1963 as Dwyer Aluminum Mast Company, the legacy continues as an OEM supplier by taking advantage of improved manufacturing methods to offer a wide range of products ...
Since 1961, RIG-RITE has engineered, manufactured and distributed Spars, Rigging and Hardware Systems for Sailboats. RIG-RITE stocks the largest variety of related Systems and Hardware available anywhere, Specializing in original replacement parts for Systems on yachts built the world over. Spars - Masts, Booms, Spreaders, Spinnaker Poles ...
Extrusion. (Showing 15 of 15) Dwyer Mast & Rigging offers 20+ extrusions for masts and booms on sailboats up to 30 feet. Please review our list of current extrusion profiles below. Extrusion is priced per foot and sold a custom quote basis. Contact our team today to discuss your order.
Ballenger Spar Systems, Inc. has been producing the highest quality racing and cruising spars for over fifty years. We carry an extensive inventory of extrusion and spar parts for sailboats from eight to eighty feet. Employing state of the art computer aided design, drafting and machining along with good old hand craftsmanship we produce ...
Spars, Rigging, and Hardware for Sailboats. Rig-Rite, Inc. Phone: (001) 401-739-1140 -- FAX: (001) 401-739-1149 www.RigRite.com Ordering/Questions: MetalMast Performance Mast Sections: In over 50 years of production history MetalMast has used an incredible variety of Mast types. ... For General Mast Parts, including Sheaves ...
Dwyer Mast & Rigging offers a wide range of parts and hardware commonly used on sailboat masts and booms including bails, chainplates and stemheads, cleats, clevis pins, connecting hardware and fasteners, eye straps and mast eyes, gooseneck assemblies, halyard organizer plates, mast steps and bases, hinges, spreaders, and more. (204)
A sailboat mast is like a long electrical fuse: one bad spot and the show is over. Critical failures are usually linked to standing rigging failures and can occur at toggle or tang attachment points, on the spar itself or at spreader tips and roots. Upper shroud tang fittings, near the masthead, need a close look.
Specializing in high-quality aluminum spars for your boat. Part Number. Mast Extrusions and Fittings Boom Extrusions and Fittings Round Tubing Sailboat Hardware and Accessories Standing Rigging and Rigging Kits Pricing and Terms Abrasive Waterjet Technology Company and Contact Information
Rig-Rite Mast Sections & Parts: In its over 50-year production history, Rig-Rite has built spars for and provided OEM spar and rigging packages to virtually every boat builder in the American North East, any many further afield. ... Sail slides: 3/8" round slugs (A017, A117) or 3/8" boltrope Standard Mast Lengths: 22'1", 24'7" Common Mast usage ...
A Mast ID number is engraved into the lower end of the mast section, for example D14-C126-0584. This mast is made from a C126 section. This is vital information when looking for maste parts in this catalogue. Mast section Length/ Width, mm Iy cm4 Ix cm4 Wall thickness, mm Weight, kg/m Wy cm3 Wx cm3 Sail groove, mm Bolt rope, Ø mm Sail slider ...
Aluminium mast sections. Carbon masts. Furling masts. Keelboat masts. Headboxes. Mast bases & Deck rings. Hydraulic mast jack. Backstay flicker & lazy jacks. Forestay & backstay toggles.
By furling the sail vertically into the mast, you don't have to furl very much to get a substantial decrease of the sail area. SIMPLE. ... The sail groove on the luff extrusion is located asymmetrically to help the sail furl easily around the extrusion. In addition, the rotating luff extrusion is tensioned and fitted with ball bearings top ...
U.S. Spars is part of Z-Spars Group in France, the World's Largest Spar Builders. Z-Spars has been supplying the sailing world with quality products since 1973. US Spars supplies quality brands like Hunter, Beneteau, Com-Pac and Performance Cruising. We would be happy to quote your mast, boom, and rigging needs. US Spars takes pride in ...
Dwyer Mast & Rigging, formerly known as Dwyer Aluminum Mast Company, was formed in 1963 to provide high-quality sailboat masts, booms, hardware, and rigging. Our formula for growth is simple - we never compromise with quality. By taking advantage of improved manufacturing methods and an ever-increasing volume, we have been able to maintain ...
Klacko Spars keeps growing as well as making products for builders and independent sailors around the world. We have a world-wide reputation for our aluminum and stainless steel custom work. Over the years, we have built products such as sail boats, power boats,12 metre masts and 100ft. masts for catamarans. Presently, Klacko keeps broadening ...
Furling mast luff extrusion * If a traditional bolt rope is to be used, a plastic profile (Art. No. 535-710), as well as a sail feed (505-526-01) must be added to the luff-groove on the mast. ** For more detailed information on Seldén's furling masts, see pages 79-89 or "Sailmakers' Guide" (www.seldenmast.com). Mast section Section dim ...
J Class Boat-Shamrock V. 1/16 (8'-10')Scale Replica of the 1930's America's Cup Class Yacht. View Page. RMG Sail Winches. High Performance sail control winches. View Page. Home; Boats/+ Boats We Offer; ... Mast Extrusions. SKU/ID: EC12-Mast . $40.00 Finish: Short Description. Teardrop Aluminum Mast Extrusion 72" Long and Black Anodized or ...
Please contact us to request a quote and discuss your project with our team. All extrusion and round tubing is cut to order, and typically requires freight shipping. Manufactured masts and booms typically have a lead time of 2-3 weeks upon confirming your order. [email protected]. 203-484-0419.
In its over 40-year production history, Kenyon has built spars for every type of sailboat from 7 to 70 feet LOA, and Kenyon has provided OEM spar and rigging packages to virtually every North American boat builder. Kenyon has built more spars than any other spar manufacturer in the U.S. In addition to building new spars, Kenyon is committed to ...
Schaefer Marine fabricated the masts in 1975 - 1978, Hall Spars started in 1980 but stopped in 1982 and only fabricated the boom from their after. Offshore and another fabricator took over. The 11.0 mast was a performance mast extrusion not a cruising mast. Hall has a similar profiles instock but not exact.
Dwyer Mast & Rigging is located in beautiful Bristol, Rhode Island. A team of experience craftsmen and machinists produce spars, fittings, and rigging, sharing a 20,000 sq ft state of the art warehouse and manufacturing facility with Zim Sailing. Dwyer Mast & Rigging is a primary supplier for Zim and is an OEM supplier for various builders ...
Spreaders. Spreaders are used on most Rigs to improve Mast support by increasing Upper (and Intermediate) Shroud angles. Spreaders are specific to particular Spreader Bases (or Spreader Bars), which, in turn are specific to individual Mast Sections. A variety of extruded Aluminum Spreader shapes are listed below.
It is very important to take this measurement with all turnbuckles adjusted halfway open. Mast Measurement Guide. The length of the mast is measured from the base of the extrusion to the top most end of the extrusion. Mast Steps and Mastheads are not included in this measurement. All fittings are measured from the base of the extrusion upward ...