battens sailboat

What Are Sail Battens?

Last Updated by

Jacob Collier

August 30, 2022

New to sailing? A beginner must learn about different parts of a sailboat, such as battens. So what are sail battens, and how do they function? Let's find out!

Sail battens are the primary structure of the mainsail that support the sail's shape, improve its overall durability and limit the effects of flogging on the sail's fabric. There are several types of battens, but the most common ones are full-length battens in the top sections of the sail.

There is no one-size-fits-all when it comes to sail battens. With several different options and uses, it can get confusing to pick one for your sailboat. This article will tell you all there is to know about sail battens and help you understand their role before adding or removing them from your sail structure.

As avid sailors, we thought it was important to pen down this article to help aspiring sailors learn all about battens. We conducted thorough research and coupled it with our knowledge and expertise to help you get started!

Table of contents

‍ What Are Sail Battens and What Do They Do?

Sail battens are the framework of the tent across which the mainsail fabric is pulled taut and smooth. They support the region outside the straight slope between the head (the top of the sail) and the clew (the bottom back corner of the sail furthest from the mass). This region would flap uncontrollably because of the wind in the absence of battens.

Battens also help maintain sail shape since they're stiff at the back end and tapered towards the front. They act as beams and resist the forces that try to compress the leech (back edge of the sail) towards the luff (forward edge of a sail) when the sail is sheeted. This preserves the open sail shape and keeps it from becoming more semicircular and fuller (rounded leech) as the winds and loads increase. A flatter shape with a straight and open leech ensures the boat stays upright on the water.

A full-length sail batten that runs the entire width of the sail is most critical in the mainsail's top sections. This is because the mainsail's roach (outward curve of the leech) represents the greatest percentage of the straight line distance between leech and luff. In the lower sections of the sail, the roach represents a smaller percentage, so the battens don't have much work.

Full-length battens also carry the compression loads to the mast. If the battens are shorter, the loads are transferred to the sail fabric. Over time, the fabric breaks down, and hinging starts to occur.

Simply put, the more full-length sail battens you use, the more durable your sail will be. It will also hold its shape better in a breeze. Better structure automatically means  less flogging  and quieter luffing. This will hold the woven materials together and ensure they do not stretch.

Materials and Construction

Most battens are made of thin fiberglass and have rectangular cross-sections. A common alternative form is a hollow tube that rotates in the batten pocket. The tube is more compatible when you want to furl the staysail by rolling the sail around a stay. To prevent sail battens from chafing the sail at the ends of the pockets to which they're inserted, manufactures often give them a soft and blunt shape.

The Pros and Cons of Full-Length Battens

A lot of aspiring sailors question full-length sail battens for mainsails. If you're one of them, we've got you covered! Here is a list of the pros and cons of full-length sail battens:

• Less flogging: Full-length battens prevent the sail from flapping like a flag. This increases the overall lifespan of the sail since flogging can be very hard on the fabric.
• Easy furling: The battens ensure the sail drops onto the boom in a neat stack.
• Improved draft shape: Full-length sail battens create a smooth sail shape that holds stiff, especially in strong winds and choppy waters.
• Must have lazy jacks: If you want to enjoy the benefits of easier furling with full-length battens, you need to have lazy jacks (rigs that are put into your boom and mast to make raising and lowering the mainsail easier). Otherwise, the battens will fall past the boom and will be harder to handle.
• Increased maintenance: The lazy jacks and shrouds tend to chafe the sail, especially at the battens when sailing off the wind. This means they require frequent re-stitching and patching.
• Jamming: Full-length battens can easily jam or hang up when the sail is being raised and lowered. You can eliminate this problem by investing in the right luff hardware at the batten ends, but it will cost you a substantial amount of money.

How to Install Sail Battens

Now that you know what sail battens are, you should learn how to install them. To make full use of sail battens, you need to ensure you've installed them properly and tensioned them correctly. Checking your battens before sailing is a very important step as it can affect your performance at sea.

Here's how you can install sail battens the right way:

Define the Sail Shape

Ensure you insert the battens with the thick, stiffer end towards the leech and the thin, tapered end towards the luff. If you insert them the wrong way, the sail will not have the correct depth or curvature.

Maintain Sufficient Tension for a Smooth Sail

You also need to look at your  batten tension  before sailing. If the tension is insufficient, it will cause several vertical wrinkles along the length of the batten. Conversely, there will be evident horizontal pulling along both sides if there is too much tension. It will stress the fabric. The batten pocket will look smooth and correctly support the sail's flying shape when the tension is sufficient.

Ensure the Battens Are Secure

Before you sail, check the closure system where the battens have been inserted to see if you've properly secured them. Regardless of the type of sail battens you use, the correct installation will keep your battens securely in place for the sailing season.

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Born into a family of sailing enthusiasts, words like “ballast” and “jibing” were often a part of dinner conversations. These days Jacob sails a Hallberg-Rassy 44, having covered almost 6000 NM. While he’s made several voyages, his favorite one is the trip from California to Hawaii as it was his first fully independent voyage.

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The Lowdown on Battens

June 15, 2022

Battens are an important part of the sail structure, but with many different options and different use cases, it can get confusing. Here is the lowdown on battens and what you need to know to choose the right ones for your sailing needs.

Battens are the primary structure of a mainsail. They support the sail's shape, improve overall durability by limiting the effects of flogging on fabric, and remove any limitation on size (roach area). Full-length battens in the top sections of the sail are now common.

Traditionally, mainsails designed for serious offshore work limit the size of the roach (area outside the straight line between clew and head), reducing the need for battens in an attempt to maximize durability and reduce maintenance. Hardcore blue-water cruisers sometimes go so far as recommending the elimination of battens entirely. They argue that battens and batten pockets are maintenance headaches and sources of potential failure. Removing the battens, however, has a huge impact on the shape, life, and size of the sail, and performance is affected dramatically.

Before you decide to add or remove your battens, it’s important to fully understand their role.

WHAT BATTENS DO

Battens are like the framework of a tent across which the material is pulled taut and smooth. They support the area outside the straight line between the clew and head. Without battens, this area would flap uncontrollably. Full-length battens, if they are stiff enough at the back end and tapered toward the front, also help maintain shape. However, it is not always ideal to have full length battens that are tapered at the luff because the compression can cause a "tube" like shape forward. Check with your sailmaker to see if non-tapered battens would be better for your sails.

Acting as “I” beams, battens resist the forces on the sail that try to compress the leech in towards the luff when the sail is sheeted in. This preserves the open-leeched airfoil shape and keeps the sail from becoming fuller and more semicircular (rounded leech) as the breeze and the loads increase. A flatter airfoil shape with a straight, open leech keeps the boat upright and reduces weather helm. The more roach you need to support, the greater the compression, and the more important battens become.

A batten running the entire width of the sail is most critical in the top sections of a mainsail because the roach represents the greatest percentage of the cord (straight line distance between leech and luff). In the lower sections of the sail, the roach is a smaller percentage of the cord, so the battens don't have as much work to do.

Full-length battens carry the compression loads all the way to the mast. If the battens are shorter, the loads are transferred to the material of the sail wherever they end. Over time, the fabric breaks down and hinging develops.

The bottom line is that the more full-length battens, or framework, are used, the more durable the sail will be, and the better it will hold its shape in a breeze. More structure equals less flog and quieter luffing (as when taking a reef). Reduced flogging will preserve the resination that holds woven materials together and makes them stretch resistant.

At a minimum, full-length battens should be used in the top sections of the mainsail.

THE DOWNSIDES OF FULL LENGTH BATTENS

The downside to full-length battens is the compression they transfer to the luff hardware. The battens force the luff of the sail into the back of the mast. The sail slides that attach the sail to the mast are loaded up, creating friction, and causing them to twist and toggle in the groove. In worst-case scenarios, slides can become locked up and prevent the sail from being raised and lowered (making it only possible to raise or lower if the boat is perfectly head to wind).

Offshore, this creates a problem when trying to reef or drop the mainsail completely when reaching and running. At a minimum, batten compression causes chafe and wear at the inboard end where the batten presses against the mast. When eased to sail off the wind, the battens will want to poke past the mast, creating a V-shaped wrinkle. Each of these problems is magnified as the sail gets bigger.

The keys to all of these issues are the batten receptacle and the type of slide used. Batten receptacles are the boxes that contain the batten on the luff end and connect the sail to the mast. They eliminate chafe and wear. Ideally they have a stainless steel, articulating universal joint to keep the batten from pushing forward while allowing the batten to spin independently of the slide.

The type of slide used has an impact on how well the sail goes up and down. Flat slides (the most common type on newer boats) are best. They cannot get twisted out of line. Round slugs are the worst because the twisting forces will often cause them to lock up in the groove, particularly if they are smaller in diameter. External claw-type bronze or nickel-plated steel slides (found on older masts) are a problem too, due to the inherent friction of the claw arrangement, and the joints between the sections of track. On larger sails, a separate, external luff track (like Tides Marine, Antal, Harken, etc.) becomes necessary to ensure easy operation.

If some, or all full-length battens are used, you must decide how to attach the sail to the mast. Make sure to consider the headboard, which is often the chief source of difficulty. Over the past twenty years, a number of alternatives have been developed. While none is perfect for every application, with a little planning you can choose the method that does the job and fits the budget.

Sailmaker Tip: Proper halyard tension is always important, but more critical with full battens because of the compression. The less halyard tension applied, the more compression load there is, pushing into the mast. Don't apply so much halyard tension that the sail inverts, but enough to remove horizontal wrinkles at the front of the sail. 

Sailmaker Tip: Batten placement, loads, and sail performance change along with the shape of your sail as it ages with use. A recut may be the best solution to optimize the performance of your sail and battens can get some needed attention in this process. Contact your local loft to talk about sail service and the proper batten setup for your new sail.

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Full Battens Guide

By flavio formosa, onesails technical director.

Thank you for choosing us for your new sail. This simple guide is meant to help you in fitting and tensioning its battens correctly, to make the most out of your sail and preserve its integrity for a long time. Please read carefully before installing the sail, and remember that your One Sails dealer is just a phone call away if you need assistance!

General Rules

• Insert battens carefully, don’t force them!
• If your battens are tapered, thinner side must always point forward regardless of insertion side
• Do not exceed in tensioning battens: usually all that’s required is the batten sits in its pocket without moving
• Whenever possible, release tension from the battens when you finish sailing, this will prolong the life of your sail!
• Identify the batten pocket style on your sail. There are basically three standard systems, plus a few custom ones used on bigger yachts. If your system is not described in this guide, please refer to your OneSails dealer for further information

Rocket” tensioner (rear loading)

Velcro tensioner (rear loading).

Batten receptacle (front loading)

1. ROCKET TENSIONER (rear loading)

A. gently insert the batten’s soft end in the pocket, then slide the black plastic tensioner onto its end as shown

B. push the batten all the way in

C. engage the retainer line integrated in the pocket around the tensioner end as shown

D. using a flathead screwdriver tension the batten until it just sits firmly in its pocket

2. VELCRO TENSIONER (rear loading)

A. gently insert the batten’s soft end in the pocket, above the velcro flap

B. push the batten all the way in, then feed the end of the velcro flap into the pocket

C. gently pointing the end of the batten feeder into the flap’s recess, push the flap fully in until the batten sits firmly inside its pocket

D. leave the line loop from the velcro flap outside, to be grabbed for extraction

3. BATTEN RECEPTACLE (front loading)

A. completely release the tensioning screw, then open the receptacle’s cover (technique and tools required vary depending on model installed)

B. gently insert the HARD end of the batten in the pocket

C. push the batten all the way into the pocket until its end sits in the receptacle’s recess

D. put the receptacle cover back in place, then tighten the tensioning screw until the batten no longer moves fore and aft in its pocket

If in doubt or you need assistance please contact your friendly OneSails representative!

N.B. Not all the fittings and accessories depicted in this guide could be part of the standard dotation of the sail.

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Similar to the Chinese junk rig, a modern catamaran 's mainsail is stabilized with battens, usually 4-8, depending on the size and aspect ratio of the sail plan. The advantages are easy reefing and their ability to extend the roach, thereby increasing the sail area. Battens also prevent wild flogging in the wind when reefing or hoisting the sail. This will greatly reduce the crew's stress level and increase the longevity of the main. Disadvantages of battens are their weight, and the fact that they are another part to fix and replace in case they break under shock loads such as accidental gybes in strong winds. Broken battens need to be replaced before they tear the sails. The pros of battens far outweigh their negative aspects however, and catamaran sailmakers have been using them as standard equipment for the last 15 years. Battens come in different shapes and sizes, but the most popular are solid fiberglass rods.

When partially rolling up the genoa while reefing, the headsail lead block should be moved forward to keep the sheeting angle constant to assure optimum sail shape.

below This is what you want to see when looking up the rig -mainsail and jib drawing in harmony, without stalling the air in the all-important slot between both sails. Note the boom bars, which assist in handling reefs and help keep the lazy jacks spread in order to facilitate gathering the main once it is dropped.

Geona Lead Position

More exotic materials such as Kevlar and carbon tubes are lightweight but expensive.

Special end fittings fix the battens to the mast track and most of the time adjustment screws are on the leach side. By being able to dial in the batten tension, the sail shape at different heights can be controlled. Depending on the weight and configuration of the catamaran you will not need to adjust batten tension often, once they are set. The lighter the boat, the more effect the alteration in tension will have on the sail shape.

Generally, you want a fuller sail in light conditions when sailing through choppy seas on a heavy boat. Wind speed, sea state and boat weight will be the most important parameters when looking to power up. Consequently, the opposite is true when sailing in flat water in stronger winds with a light boat . All three factors, or a combination thereof, should dictate the degree of fullness the main and jib should have. Of course, outhaul, halyard, Cunningham, traveler and sheets will have the greatest cumulative effect, yet batten tension will contribute its share. The more the battens are under compression, the more they will bow and the deeper the chord of the sail will become. Often you will see an S-curve in a batten when sighting up the main, which will be evidence of too little tension.

Continue reading here: Reefing

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Readers' Questions

Why full battens on catamaran?

There are several reasons why full battens are often used on catamarans: Increased sail performance: Full battens help to maintain a better sail shape and increase the overall performance of the sails. They allow the sail to maintain a smooth and efficient shape, reducing drag and improving speed. Better control: Full battens provide better control over the shape and twist of the sail. This allows the sailor to adjust the sail's performance to match the desired sailing conditions, such as reducing power in high winds or maximizing power in lighter winds. Improved durability: Full battens help distribute the load evenly along the sail's surface, reducing stress points and potential for damage. They also help to prevent the sail from flogging or flapping in heavy winds, which can lead to tears or excessive wear. Easier reefing: Full battens make reefing (reducing the sail's area) easier and more efficient. They provide better support to the sail when it is partially furled, reducing the risk of wrinkling or jamming. Overall, full battens on a catamaran enhance sail performance, durability, and control, making them a popular choice for catamaran sailors.

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Where to buy cheap battens?? Homemade??

• Thread starter damoses1
• Start date Apr 1, 2010
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

I just bought an O'day 22 and I need to buy battens for my sail, but they seem to be pricey at my local West Marine. When I took my sails in for light repairs last week, the expert there said he used to cut a yardstick and use that (for a temporary quick fix). He did mention never to use wood battens, as they expand and absorb water- leading to moldy sails. He said to use either fiberglass or plastic. My question is, has anyone made homemade battens? If so, what did you make them of? Or, if anyone has an idea of where to buy them cheap, I'd appreciate it. Thank You!  

Brian M H23

You could seal the yardstick with polyester resin or epoxy.  

Call around to the local sail lofts - I would think you can find one who could help you out in hopes of making you a future customer when it comes time for a new sail. New sails are expensive, and sailing very far without a batten, or worse with a broken batten can quickly destroy your sail so realize that a small (in comparison) investment now will save you money in the long run.  

You can find fibre glass flats at Home Depot at the chain link fence section.  

Home Depot has 1" and 1-1/2" wide plastic strips used to trim out paneling. I think they are 8' long and easy to cut. I just cut them to length and sand the ends. I use these on My mutt main sail. I have used cut yard sticks but I remove them when I lower the sail and never had a problem with them. Both are cheap and easy.  

Real battens I bought a new 8 foot batten from these guys for $6.80 and $8.00 shipping (when you see the size of the box, you'll see why). These are real battens and I wouldn't buy anything else or anywhere else. http://www.bete-fleming.com/battens.html  

John 23883 (sounds like a bible verse, heh, heh).... Thanks for the excellent link. Glad to see a non Home Depot solution offered. Helps keep the forum seaworthy, ya know. Anyway, battens are an integral part of a sail and decisions to placement, style, shape and flex are seriously design considerations. Besides risking sail damage by using the inappropriate batten, the performance factor is severly affected. The following article explains this and more: http://www.sailingproshop.com/ullman_sails_mainsail_battens.aspx Here's some DIY resources: http://www.western-marine.com/page38.htm http://search.sailrite.com/category/sail-rigging-hardware-harken-battens-slugs-slides-shackles That said, John's resource seems the most reasonable. Damoses1 , if you're determined to make your own batten... check the yellow pages for plastic supply stores. If you're just looking for a short, flat leech batten you should be able to find a piece of plexiglass that you can cut and sand to suit your need.  

I wouldn't use plexiglass for a batten, since acrylic can snap if flexed too hard. Polycarbonate or ABS would make far better battens.  

We sailed for years with varnished maple battens without problems. I've also seen PVC pipe, 1/2 inch, as full battens with the leach end doubled and taped together which seemed to work well enough in non-racing conditions.  

I have a friend at the club that was thinking about doing DIY battens for his hobie. At the prices John linked, I doubt you could do it DIY for less! Nice link, I bookmarked it.  

sailingdog said: I wouldn't use plexiglass for a batten, since acrylic can snap if flexed too hard. Polycarbonate or ABS would make far better battens. Click to expand

Are battens absolutely necessary? It seems like the words "always", "absolutely" and "must" don't go well together with "sailing". Most boats from the 70s to mid 80s were headsail driven and usually carried small mains. These mains had very little to moderate roach and the use of battens was more a choice than a necessity. Nowadays with boats being predominantly mainsail driven the mainsails sport large roach and these do benefit from the support offered by battens. Damoses1, my point is that your boat probably does not benefit much from the use of battens and that it would be best to sail without them than utilizing an ill conceived batten than in shape, weight and rigidity may do more harm than good. I have sailed boats without battens and my experience has been that when sailing closed hauled any roach fluttering is hardly noticeable and perhaps just barely noticeable when sailing off the wind. It is true that unchecked roach fluttering can harm a sail and for that purpose battens were introduced. High performance sails now use battens to affect sail shape and allow changes but that is another topic.  

I lost about three of my battens a couple of years ago, I discovered the elastic bungies which hold the battons in the sail pockets were all streched out. Went to a local sailmaker to see about repairs, he sold me an 8 foot section of batton material and the plastic end cups to go on the battons. told me to cut the batton material to proper length with a hacksaw, seal the in the sail pocket with a piece of sail tape, worked great and still holding!! Cost me about 8 bucks for material..  

Which came first, the chicken or the egg? I would think after all these years and all the high tech research that has been done that if battens weren't needed then there wouldn't be batten pockets. Battens define the shape of the leach and center of the sail. The larger the sail the more they are needed. Old and worn sails on many smaller boats probably benefit the most as without this modicum of shape the sail is simply increased drag. Home made, fabricated, cheap or stolen they will improve the sail performance. Are you good enough to realize this improvement? Ray  

RECESS said: I have a friend at the club that was thinking about doing DIY battens for his hobie. At the prices John linked, I doubt you could do it DIY for less! Nice link, I bookmarked it. Click to expand

well.. I went to west marine and they quoated me $439.00 for a set of full battens for my cal-28.. and I had to cut them myself... I bought a new set, all ready cut and sanded fiberglass ones at Bacon sails for $74.00 , they also said that, they have many used ones in stock for half price... happy sailing.. Jerome  

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Home > Resources > Full Battens vs Partial Battens vs 2 Full plus 2 Partial Battens

Full Battens vs Partial Battens vs 2 Full plus 2 Partial Battens

24 August 2016

Ask Precision Sails , Design , Hardware , Mainsail , Sails , Technical Tags: Full Battens , Mainsail Design , New sails , Partial Battens , Sail Design

At Precision Sails  we are asked every day during our customer quote consultation  “Should I choose Full Battens or Partial Battens for my new mainsail?”  Whether you are cruising or racing you will need to examine the pros and cons of adding full battens to your main sail.

Full Batten Pros

• Larger Sail – The additional structure of the battens will allow the roach of the sail to be increased and result in a larger overall sail area (taking into account the position of your backstay of course!)
• Less Damage/longer life – When luffing the sail or flogging the sail in heavy winds, there will be less damage done to the leech with the support that full battens add
• Increased Light Wind Performance – In light winds properly tensioned battens give the sail proper shape and do not require wind energy to build shape. This results in better light wind performance
• Better Draft Shape – The added structure allows the sail to keep a higher performing shape in variable winds and rough sailing conditions and therefore results in an all round improvement in performance
• Maintain Sail Shape – The designed sail shape can become distorted and stretched over time from use and from the weight of the material itself. Full battens along with a proper batten recepticals/sliders on the luff will reduce stretch.
• Storage – Flaking the sail on the boom can be easier with full battens and even easier with a  Lazy jack system

Full Batten Cons

• High Maintenance – Batten tension should be adjusted based on wind conditions. Often cruisers forget or don’t adjust the battens according to the wind conditions. This results in being overpowered by heavy wind or under powered in light winds
• Back Stay Rubbing – Many sailors with full battens experience rubbing on the back stay when under tension. (choosing the right sail designer, providing a few measurements, and discussing your preference can eliminate this)
• Mast Sliders Jamming – Some sailors experience jamming of the sliders when hauling or dropping the mainsail. This can be eliminated with a good sail design/designer that takes this into account and includes the proper receptacles for the battens
• Reduced Effectiveness of Sail Controls – Full battens limit a sailors ability to employ sail controls like the Cunningham, Flattening Reef, Leech and foot lines, introducing twist with the out-haul and down haul
• Increased Weight – Although modern battens are lighter and stronger than battens even a few years ago, every ounce of added weight counts when it comes to performance!
• Check Your Rating – Some classes will penalize you for full battens vs partial battens
• Difficult to Read the Sail – the increase structure to the sail shape reduces/eliminates luffing. Many novice sailors and cruisers rely on a luffing sail to indicate poor sail shape. To avoid this potential issue, install tell tales on the leech of the sail and learn to read the air as it flows off the sail.
• Cost – Full battens are more expensive than partial battens

2 Full and 2 Partial Battens

More and more sailors are choosing the middle ground in the Full Batten vs Partial Batten Debate: two full battens at the head of the sail and 2 partial battens toward the foot.

• Increased Performance – In lighter winds the sail has good structure higher where you tend to catch lighter winds
• Maintain Control – Partial battens toward the foot allow you to power the center of the sail using sail controls like a Cunningham, flattening reef, foot and leech lines
• Maintain Sail Shape – The designed sail shape can become distorted and stretched over time from use and from the weight of the material itself. Full battens along with a proper batten receptacle/slider on the luff will reduce stretch.

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Fully Battened Mainsails: Pros and Cons

Fully Battened Mainsails – The good, the bad, and the ugly

Customers frequently request fully battened sails, whether it’s a Catalina 22 or Swan 58. Is a fully battened mainsail right for you? Or is it just a marketing scheme, a collaboration of sailmakers, hardware manufacturers, and riggers, scheming to separate you from your hard earned money?

Regardless of the type of battens used, we need to be concerned with the following topics:

Ease of hoisting, dousing, and reefing

Controlling sail shape

De-powering without reefing

Wear issues

Sail stowage 

Before we delve into those topics, let’s discuss why we have battens  in the first place. The principal reason is we want to support roach,  the material added to the back edge of the sail, beyond an imaginary  straight line drawn between the head and clew of the sail. A perk of  full battens is some reduction of the loads on the leech; however there  are other ways we can address leech loads.

This blog post addresses conventionally rigged boats with backstays. Further, we’re going to limit the discussion to the types of boats most of us sail, monohull cruisers and racer-cruisers. Multihulls, and boats with freestanding rigs like the Freedom, Tanton, and Wylie receive tremendous benefit from fully battened sails because there is no rig induced limitation on roach. Most boats have relatively little room to add significant  amounts of roach without the leech hanging on the backstay, or  requiring the mainsail to be lowered slightly for tacks and jibes.

Full length battens add weight and friction. With a partial length batten, sail slides tend to pull away from the mast. When we have full length batten, the leech end tends to droop and puts pressure  toward the mast on the sail slide. So now we’re asking the slides to be  okay with being pushed towards the mast rather than pulled away.  These “compression loads” are what make full batten sails harder to  hoist, reef, and douse.  To compensate for these loads, we’ll often install Strong Track from  Tides Marine. This is an elegant yet simple system with an extruded  UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic track and stainless steel slides.  Strong Track delivers incredible results without relying on cars with  bearings and best of all the track comes in one piece and slides up the  existing track or groove. Installation takes a fraction of the time of a Harken or Antal system. Best of all, Tides Marine has a great reputation for supporting their products. We can obtain a replacement slide for a track system that is over 20 years old. Compare that to Harken, who told us we were out of luck when we needed hardware for a 6 or 7 year old system that cost the customer over $6000. 

The combination of full battens and a track system adds weight. In fact the difference in batten weights and track hardware can really add up. As we know, weight aloft is never our friend. Well, unless it’s  your friend who volunteered to go aloft and install the new wind instrument or tri-color light.

Controlling Sail shape

The simplest explanation for the effect of full battens on sail shape is  that the battens can take over the shape of the sail, particularly in light air. Another vexing problem in light air occurs when the battens don’t “pop over” when we change tacks. Cunningham, outhaul, and halyard tension don’t have the same effectiveness as they do on a partial full batten sail.  One way we can affect shape changes is by bending the mast. So  on a boat with a flexible mast and appropriate controls, we can make  the needed shape changes. Many boats won’t have adequate range of  mast bend to match the shaping ability of a main with conventional  battens or just the top one or two full.

Our racing customers generally do not order full batten sails. For  cruising customers, we design the sail knowing that the range of  controls are limited. The decision on how full or flat the shape of the  main is will be made after consulting with the customer on their  sailing plans and sailing style.

De-powering without Reefing

As a former sailing instructor for Olympic Circle Sailing Club in  Berkeley, California, we taught mainsail de-powering  strategies for when you have too much mainsail up. One  strategy we taught was backwinding the main, which creates a large  bubble towards the luff. Unfortunately, full battens often prevent that bubble from forming. Another technique was the “fisherman’s  reef” which is performed by pulling the traveler all the way to windward (yes windward), then easing the sheet considerably.

Wear Issues

Every year, a large contingent of cruisers departs the west coast of the  Americas, bound for the legendary cruising grounds of the South  Pacific. The cruisers with full batten mainsails often find themselves

busy with sail repairs once they make landfall in the Marquesas.  Sailing the downwind trades often means the full batten is rubbing  against the shrouds. This not only leads to wear on the pockets but  can damage the luff box (fitting on luff that holds batten).   The boom vang can reduce the up and down movement of the sail during changes in wind velocity. Anti-chafe should be liberally applied and frequently inspected.  Swept back spreaders compound wear issues by placing the shrouds  so they contact the sail sooner than they would on a  rig with straight spreaders. Many modern production boats have  swept back spreaders. There are some advantages to a swept back rig  outside the scope of our discussion but your rig type should be considered when deciding whether or not to order a sail with full length battens.

Some customers feel that fully battened mainsails are warranted for  their ability to reduce flog. As a former charter captain, instructor,  and occasional delivery skipper, I disagree and maintain this is more  of a seamanship issue. If I’m motoring for an extended period of  time, say bringing my boat up from Mexico back to the Northwest,  flogging isn’t an issue. Usually I’ll crack off a bit so the main serves as  a steadying sail. Otherwise, if I’m motoring straight into the wind in  calm sea conditions, I’ll simply drop the sail.

Boats with a backstay don’t require full length battens to  achieve the maximum roach possible. Having the top one or two battens full length will allow for plenty of roach and to “max out” the girths under handicap rules.

Stack Height and Slide Spacing

When planning a new mainsail, we like to make customers aware of  possible changes in stack height. The length and number of sail slides  will dictate how high off the boom the new sail will stack. A fully  battened mainsail will have luff boxes at each batten. The slides for  the luff boxes will be longer than a regular sail slide.  Contrary to popular belief, lazy jack systems and sail covers that  integrate lazy jacks still work without full length battens.

How Many Battens?

How many battens is the right number? Most sails will have four or five battens. If we are going to use even slide spacing, there will be a set number of slides between each batten. We don’t have to use even spacing but some of our customers prefer not to have uneven flakes in their sail. Depending on the type of luff hardware, and if there is a track system installed, there are some practical limitations on how much space we can have between the slides. Let’s assume we are designing a mainsail with a luff of 42 feet (12.8m). If we have four battens, we can divide the luff into 5 sections. For five battens, we divide it into 6. Then we divided that result by the number of slides plus one. So doing the math gives us:

4 batten sail – 100.8” (2560mm)

5 batten sail – 84” (2134mm)

The 4 batten slide spacing with 3 slides between battens would be 25.2” (640mm) and with 2 slides, it would be 33.5” (853mm).

For 5 battens, those numbers would be 28” (711mm) or 42” (1067mm).

I met a gentleman who owns a classic 46’ racer cruiser that he lives aboard and cruises with his wife. He’s a dock neighbor of some friends and other customers. He is deciding between a fully battened mainsail versus a mainsail with the top two battens full, and remainder partial. Incidentally, our partial battens are much longer than the old fashioned short leech battens. That helps us avoid what I refer to as “hinge effect wear”. If he opts for the fully battened mainsail, he will need a Tides Marine Strong  track system to keep the loads manageable. We’d use Robichaud Epoxy  battens for the full batten main. Full batten mainsails cost a bit more  to build because of the additional materials and time for the full  length pockets. For this particular boat, the additional costs incurred  with the fully battened sail will approach $2000. It will be interesting  to see what he decides and how he likes it.

About the Author:

Dave Benjamin is president and founder of Island Planet Sails, a leading independent sail loft serving sailors since 2004.

This article is helpful and leads me to a question: I have a J120 sailboat (40′ LOA). I do not race the boat and am not overly concerned about sailing performance. It has a long boom (18′) and flaking the mainsail and putting the mainsail cover back on each time is a big hassle, particularly when I am alone after single handing. I am considering going to some type of stack pack storage arrangement and believe that such a system would work much better (in terms of easy flaking) if I converted the main sail to a fully battened one. My local sail maker who would make the stack pack says that the compression loads on the luff slides (of a fully battened sail) would not be sufficient to require a slide system (like the Tides Marine system you refer to). Do you concur? Any other particular words of wisdom? Thanks very much!

We’ve used “pack” systems with both fully battened and partially battened mains. Some people prefer them with full battens. I’m not a big fan of the pack systems because I don’t like having the canvas out all the time but they are popular.

Personally I’d suggest the Tides system if you’re trying to make life easier. If you’re a young athletic person then you may not “need” it, but why not create a system that is super easy for anyone to use? And if you’re doing a lot of singlehanded sailing, then it’s a no brainer. Reefing is way easier with the Strong Track system than without it. The main on the J/120 is a good sized sail.

We offer some excellent packages on sail and track combos, so feel free to contact us for a quote.

I mark a green dot on the starboard side of the luff and leech where my first and all odd folds of the main are pulled laterally. Then all of the even folds are are marked on port with red dots. When alone I lower about a third of the sail at a time first pulling the luff folds to their respective sides then the leech followed by a single sail tie for each portion of the sail. Having three or more of us aboard makes this process trivial. (The luff is about 46 feet and there are two full length battens and three partials.””)

John, Thanks for your input. The one caveat with this approach is if you continually flake in the same spot, you can develop some weakness in the sail. Think of what happens if you fold and refold a piece of paper in the same spot. Makes it easier to tear, right?

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FULL-BATTEN VS. STANDARD CRUISING MAINSAILS

Two great mainsail options for different cruising needs.

For North Sails Cruising Mainsails, full-battens or  standard battens   each provide different cruising benefits. Here’s a summary of the differences to help you understand which sail type is best for you.

FIRST, WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE?

Battens in a sail support the area of fabric located behind the straight line between the head and clew, called the “roach.” Without support, this area would flap loosely like a flag (except where the shape is self-supporting at deeper sailing angles). On a full-batten mainsail, all the   battens   run the entire width of the sail, from leech to luff, usually parallel to the boom. Partial battens just run a few feet in from the leech, typically perpendicular to the straight line between the head and the clew.

BENEFITS OF FULL-BATTEN MAINSAILS

North Sails full-batten mainsails provide smooth performance and easy handling for sails with larger roaches . Full-length battens help reduce the flogging of a luffing sail that can damage its fibers and fittings and maintain the designed sail shape. They can also make the sail easier to stack on the boom or into a sail cradle, benefiting shorthanded cruisers. Multihulls and other boats without backstays almost always use large-roached, fully-battened mainsails for the extra power they provide.

BENEFITS OF STANDARD CRUISING MAINSAILS WITH PARTIAL BATTENS

As mainsails pull forward into the mast, compression loads at the forward ends of full-battens increase friction between their mast cars and the mast or track. Without low-friction or ball-bearing cars, this friction can be difficult to overcome on larger boats that may have trouble lowering the mainsail if not directly head-to-wind.

If your boat has a backstay and there’s no room for the added area enabled by full- battens, full-battens may be an unnecessary expense as partial battens can easily support smaller roaches.

If you’re a person who enjoys tweaking your sail shape with an adjustable outhaul, partial battens can give you more direct control over the sail shape in the bottom third of the sail.

TAPERED BATTENS

Sails are three-dimensional wings designed to create lift that propels the boat forward, with the deepest part of their curves (the “draft”) in the forward third of the sail and the back third designed much flatter. As sails age and stretch, the draft moves aft, and the back of the sail gets rounder and more profound, making the airfoil “engine” less efficient. In addition, non-tapered full-battens bend symmetrically – push the two ends together, and you’ll see. This symmetrical curve in a sail immediately counteracts the draft-forward sail design, moving the draft aft slightly and more so as the sail loses its stretch resistance over time.

Tapered battens are stiffer in the back and bendier in the front, producing a bend similar to the draft-forward sail design. North Sails matches the bend profile of full-battens to the designed shape of the sail, supporting the airfoil instead of altering it, maintaining sail efficiency over time. Even partially-battened sails can benefit from tapered leech battens because the flexible tip eliminates the “hinge” effect. The sail can fold vertically on a line along the front of each partial batten pocket, weakening the fabric with repeated flexing at these points.

WHAT'S REQUIRED FOR FULL-BATTEN MAINSAIL SETUPS?

Unless your boat is smaller (under 30 feet or so), you’ll need a low-friction slide at the front of each full-batten that fits into the mast or onto a mast track for the full-batten mainsail system to work effectively. Your North Sails expert can help you make sure that you’ve got what you need.

Full-batten mainsails often require chafe protection on the pockets, especially if your boat has swept-back spreaders or shrouds that rub against the sail on the leeward side. North Sails has a great product line with durable material to protect against this.

Reefing in a big breeze can be challenging when your sail is pressed against the rig and sideloaded on the mast. Ask your North Sails expert about the best methods for reducing sail area, so you can be prepared when the time calls for it.

WHY FULL-BATTENS?

Full-batten mainsails enable more roach on your sail plan, which is why multihulls use this type.

As smaller self-tacking jibs become more popular, more mainsail power is needed.

Full-batten mainsails are great for shorthanded sailing and boats equipped with custom luff systems, single-line reefing, and lazy jacks or quick covers.

BATTENS IN OTHER SAIL TYPES

The benefits of full and partial battens extend beyond conventional mainsails. For example, in-mast furling mainsails can benefit from flatter leeches and slightly more sail area with partial or full-battens designed parallel to the luff that rolls into the mast. However, this requires an understanding of their unique usage parameters in these sails. Similarly, vertical battens in self-tacking furling jibs, growing in popularity with today’s boat designs, can help align the airflow on the leeward side of the mainsail and provide more power. Square-top mainsails on boats without backstays, usually multihulls, use a diagonal gaff batten at the head to support the flat edge aloft. However, headboard systems are required to allow the gaff batten to collapse onto the flaked sail when lowered. Battens can even be used to add area to the foot of a jib or genoa when the desire for sail area exceeds the incremental maintenance requirements this adds over time.

HOW TO CHOOSE?

Like everything on a boat, the added benefit comes with added cost, so weigh the advantages of full-battens against their incremental cost. While large-reached sails almost always require full-battens, moderate-roach sails can split the benefits and costs by making only the top one or two battens full and the lower ones partial. This reduces car friction and expense, along with some flaking ease, while protecting the top of the sail against flogging when twisted off on a windy day. As always, your North Sails expert can make recommendations after discussing your sailing plans and help you determine how you can enjoy your boat more.

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Recmar Plastream Sail Battens

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Recmar Plastream Sail Battens are unbreakable, made from ABS Cycolac® plastic. The use of these sail battens makes for the perfect sail shape. Plastream Sail Battens are easy to cut and file to the perfect size. Unlike fiberglass battens, these Recmar battens will not splinter your fingers or your sails and do not require end caps.

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Billionaire Yacht Was Piloted Recklessly Before Deadly Sinking, Its Builder Warns

"everything that has been done reveals a very long sum of errors.".

The builder of the sunken superyacht owned by British billionaire Mike Lynch, who died with six others after the vessel went down earlier this week , is blaming an "endless chain of errors" for the maritime disaster.

Flying under a British flag, the 184 foot Bayesian was built in 2008 by Italian builders Perini Navi and should've been "unsinkable" had proper procedures been followed, argues Giovanni Costantino, CEO of the Italian Sea Group, which owns the yacht manufacturer.

"Everything that has been done reveals a very long sum of errors," Costantino told Italian newspaper Corriere della Sera in an interview, as translated by People . "The people should not have been in the cabins, the boat should not have been at anchor. And then why didn't the crew know about the incoming disturbance?"

Red Sky at Morning

An investigation into the sinking is ongoing. It's believed that a small waterspout , or a waterborne tornado, struck the vessel as it was anchored off the coast of Porticello, Sicily, around 5 am local time on Monday, according to  CNN .

At some point after encountering the fierce winds, the ship's towering mast — the second tallest aluminum mast in the world — snapped, before the vessel appears to have capsized and sank with 22 people on board.

Costantino argues — pretty bluntly, we have to say — that the crew and passengers should've anticipated the stormy conditions.

"The passengers reported an absurd thing, namely that the storm came unexpected, suddenly," he said in the interview, per People . "It's not true. Everything was predictable. I have the weather charts in front of me here. Nothing came suddenly."

"Ask yourself, why was no fisherman from Porticello out that night?" he added. "A fisherman reads the weather conditions and a ship doesn't? The disturbance was fully readable in all the weather charts."

Batten Down

Their errors didn't end there, according to Costantino, who said in the interview that there would've been "zero risk" had the right maneuvers been made.

The captain and crew, he further explained to the New York Times , should've turned on the engine, lifted anchor, steered the boat into the wind, and lowered the keel for extra stability, while the passengers should've been gathered in the deck's main hall.

Another precaution would be shutting all the doors and hatches on the ship's side and stern. Costantino claimed that the Bayesian could list, or tilt to one side, to 75 degrees without capsizing, and shouldn't have sunk. But if some of those doors and hatches were left open, he told NYT , the ship could've taken on water too quickly.

As it stands, it's unclear how many of these procedures were executed. The ship's captain, James Cutfield, survived the ordeal and was questioned by authorities, but has not spoken to the media.

It's worth noting that Costantino's arguments could be seen as trying to exonerate his company of any wrongdoing. That being said, the speed at which a vessel of Bayesian's size and reputation sank has stunned sailors and investigators , who are trying to understand why most of the crew survived while six passengers perished.

More on nautical terrors: Orcas Strike Again, Sinking Yacht as Oil Tanker Called for Rescue

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