sailing a cutter rigged sailboat

My Cruiser Life Magazine

Cutter Rigged Sailboats [GUIDE] Advantages, Sailing, Options & Features

Cutter rigs are often more prevalent in boating magazines and theory than they are in your marina. Most cruising sailboats are Bermuda rigged sloops with just one permanently attached headsail. So, are two headsails better than one? Or, are they double the trouble?

Table of Contents

• History of Cutters 

What is a Cutter Rig?

Cutter features, cutter rig options, sailing a cutter rigged sailboat, 5 popular manufacturers making cutter rigs, it takes two to tango, cutter rigged sailboat faqs.

History of Cutters

Cutters became popular in the early 18th century. These traditional cutters were decked (instead of open) and featured multiple headsails. Smugglers used cutters to smuggle goods, and the coast guard used cutters to try to catch the smugglers. 

Various navies also used the cutter rig. Navy cutters featured excellent maneuverability and were better at sailing to windward than square-rigged ships. 

Navies used cutters for coastal patrol, collecting customs duties, and “cutting out” raids. These “cutting out” operations consisted of a boarding attack. Fast, maneuverable cutters could stealthily approach an enemy vessel and board it. This type of attack was common in the late 18th century. 

US Coast Guard ships, now powerful, fast, engine-driven, steel vessels, are still called cutters today as a nod to their past.

A cutter rig sailboat has two headsails instead of just one. The jib is located forward and is either attached to a bowsprit or the bow. The inner sail is called the staysail and is attached to an inner forestay. 

Traditional cutters were built for speed. Today, cutter rigged sailboats are popular with ocean-crossing sailors, cruisers, and sailors looking for an easy to manage, versatile rig for all conditions.

It’s important to distinguish cutters from other types of boats with a single mast. Cutters regularly fly two headsails on nearly every point of sail. Many sloops are equipped to fly different-sized headsails, but it is unusual or unnecessary for them to fly more than one at a time.

Solent Rig vs Cutter Rig

A solent rig is traditionally called a slutter–a little bit sloop and a little bit cutter. This configuration features two large headsails mounted close together. The solent rig is good if you do a lot of downwind sailing. You can pole out both headsails and go wing-on-wing, with one headsail on the starboard side and one on the port side. 

If you are on any other point of sail, you can only use one solent rig headsail at a time. If you use the inner sail, the wind flow is disrupted by the furled forward sail. And, if you use the forward sail, you’ll have to furl it to tack because there’s not enough space between the forestays.

The solent rig is a way to add more sail options to a standard sloop. Most solent stays are not required rigging to keep the mast up, so owners remove them when not in use to make tacking the primary headsail easier. 

Advantages of a Cutter Rig

There are a lot of reasons to like a cutter. A cutter rigged boat has redundant rigging and spreads the sail load across its rigging. And a cutter rig offers increased sail options–it offers increased sail area in light winds and easy and efficient ways to decrease sail area in heavy weather. 

In heavy weather, a cutter will drop or furl her larger headsail – usually a yankee or a genoa. That leaves just the smaller inner staysail. This arrangement is superior to the standard sloop, which sails in high winds by reefing her headsail. The staysail, however, lowers the center of effort on the sail plan and maintains draft over the reefed mainsail. That makes the boat more stable, maintains performance, and reduces stresses on the rig. 

If you imagine the sailor going to sea and needing to reef, it’s easy to see how many more choices they have than the sloop sailor. While each sailor can reef their mainsail, a cutter skipper has full control over both headsails as well. 

Because a cutter rig spreads the load across two headsails, it’s easier to manage. There might be more sails, but each sail is smaller and has smaller loads on it. That makes cutters the preferred option for sailing offshore when short-handed, as are more cruising couples. 

Lastly, it has to be added that there’s something appealing about the traditional looks of a cutter. 

Disadvantages of a Cutter Rig

While there are many benefits of a cutter, there are drawbacks and disadvantages too. 

Sailors will have more lines to manage and more processes to think through. More sails mean more halyards and sheets. And when it comes to maintenance and upkeep, a cutter will have more standing and running rigging to replace, along with one more sail. 

Cutters are also harder to tack. You’ll be dealing with two headsails instead of just one. Many designs deal with this problem by making the staysail self-tacking. This has fallen out of favor, but it’s a great advantage if you find yourself short-tacking up or down rivers.

Regardless of whether you need to tack both headsails or not, getting the larger sail to tack through the slot and around the inner forestay is sometimes a challenge. Many skippers find themselves furling the headsail, at least partially, to complete the tack. 

Cutters need extra foretriangle room, which can mean adding a bowsprit, moving the mast back, or both. 

Cutter Rig Position

Looking at a cutter rigged sailboat diagram, you might see a bowsprit depicted. Often, cutters fly their yankee from a bowsprit. Bowsprits allow boat designers to increase the fore triangle’s size without making the mast taller. Other cutters don’t use a bowsprit and mount the yankee sail on the bow. 

A cutter sailboat might seem like more work. After all, there are two sails to trim and manage. In addition, you’ll have to perform maintenance on two sails and purchase and maintain double the hardware. 

However, the two headsail arrangement can be easier to manage when the sails are under load. Instead of having one jib or genoa to trim, the weight and pressure are spread across two sails. 

Mast Location

Today’s modern boat designers often focus on providing living space in the cabin. Designers often move the mast forward to create a larger, more open saloon. When the mast is forward, there’s less space to mount two headsails. A cutter sailboat needs a decent foretriangle area. 

A cutter rigged sailboat is also more expensive for boat builders. The deck must be strong enough to handle the inner forestay’s loads. Between the additional building costs, saloon design issues, and customers’ concern over increased complexity, boat builders often favor a single headsail. 

Easier on the Boat and Crew

Since the loads are distributed between two smaller sails instead of being handled by one large genoa. This means there’s less pressure on attachments points and hardware, and therefore less wear and tear. In addition, because there are separate attachment points on the deck for each sail, the load is distributed across the deck instead of focused on one spot. 

Because each headsail is smaller, the sails are easier to winch in, so the crew will find it easier to manage the sails.

There’s nothing cookie-cutter about a sailing cutter. From the cut of the jib to the configuration of the staysail, each cutter sailboat is unique. 

Yankee, Jib, or Genoa

Traditional cutters have a yankee cut headsail along with a staysail. The yankee is high-cut and usually has no overlap. The high cut improves visibility, and a yankee has less twist than a typical jib. By sloop standards, it looks very small, but on a cutter it works in unison with the staysail. 

A jib is a regular headsail that does not overlap the mast, while a genoa is a big jib that does overlaps. The amount of overlap is measured in percentage, so a 100-percent working jib fills the foretriangle perfectly. Other options include the 135 and 155-percent genoas, which are popular for sailors in light winds. 

The problem with using a big jib or genoa with a staysail is that there will often be a close overlap between the two headsails. If flown together, the air over the staysail interferes with the air over the outer sail, making each one slightly less efficient. In these cases, it’s often better to drop the staysail and leave it for when the wind pipes up. 

Roller Furler, Club, or Hank-On Sails

Sailors have many options to manage and store their cutter’s sails. Sailors can mix and match the options that work for them. 

Roller Furler vs Hank-on Sails

You can have both sails on roller furlers, both hanked on, or a mix of the two. 

Buying and maintaining two roller furlers is expensive, but it makes the sails easy to manage. You can easily unfurl, reef, and furl both headsails from the cockpit without having to work on the deck. 

Hank-on sails are fool-proof and offer less expense and maintenance. You can use a hank-on staysail, either loose-footed or club-footed, depending on your needs. Hank-on sails make sail changes easy and they never jam or come unfurled unexpectedly. 

The most common setup on most cutters is to have the larger yankee or jib on a furler, and the smaller and more manageable staysail hanked on.

Club-footed Staysail

A club-footed staysail is attached to a self-tacking boom. Since there is only one control sheet to handle, there’s a lot less work to do to tack from the cockpit. It tacks just like another mainsail. You can tack the yankee while the club-footed staysail self-tacks. 

Island Packets and many other cutters feature this arrangement, which makes tacking easy. 

However, a club-footed staysail takes up space on the foredeck–it’s always in the way. It’s harder to get to your windlass and ground tackle. In addition, it’s harder to store your dinghy on the foredeck under the staysail boom. The boom also presents a risk to anyone on the foredeck, since it can swing during tacks and jibes and is even lower to the deck than the mainsail boom.

Loose-footed Staysail

Keeping a loose-footed staysail on a furler clears space on the deck. Without the boom, you can more easily move around the foredeck, and you’ll have more space when you are managing the anchor. In addition, you can more easily store your dinghy on the foredeck. 

However, the staysail loses its self-tacking ability. You’ll now have to have staysail tracks for the sheet’s turning blocks and another set of sheet winches in the cockpit. When it comes time to tack the boat, you’ll have two headsails with four sheets and four winches to handle. Most owners choose to furl the outer headsail before the tack. Then, they can perform the maneuver using the staysail alone.

The good news is that most offshore boats are not tacking very often. If you’re on a multi-day passage, chances are you’ll only tack once or twice on the whole trip.

Downwind and Light Air Sails

There are a number of light air sails that will help your cutter perform better when the wind is light. Popular options include the code zero, gennaker, and asymmetrical spinnaker. 

Adding one of these sails to your inventory can make it a dream sailing machine. A code zero can be flown in light air. Since the cutter is already well equipped for sailing in heavy air, a light air sail really gives you the ability to tackle anything.

Sloop Rig, Ketch, and Yawl

While some describe a cutter as a cutter-rigged sloop or a sloop cutter, a modern sloop has one mast and one permanent headsail. 

But you’ll also find the cutter rig used on a ketch or a yawl. A cutter ketch or yawl offers a cruising sailor increased sail area and choices by adding the mizzen mast and sail behind. 

Sailing a cutter rigged boat is not that different from sailing a traditional sloop. Sailors will have to pay close attention to trim and tacking. 

Sailing a Cutter Rig to Windward

A cutter usually can’t point as high as a sloop when sailing to windward. The yankee hinders the staysail’s airflow, and the staysail starts to stall. 

Tacking a Sailboat Cutter

If you need to short tack up a narrow channel, and both your sails are loose-footed, you can roll up one of the headsails and just use one headsail to tack. Many staysails have a boom and are self-tacking. This means you can tack the yankee, and the staysail will take care of itself. 

Reefing a Cutter

A cutter sailboat has more options to easily get the right amount of sail. You can add a reef to your mainsail, then furl or reef the yankee a little, and then add another reef to the mainsail. As the wind increases, you can take the yankee in all together, and sail with a double-reefed mainsail and the staysail. Finally, you can add the third reef to the mainsail. Some staysails can be reefed, too.  

A cutter rig offers many options during heavy weather. For example, you may end up taking the mainsail down altogether and leaving the staysail up. Or, you might choose to replace the staysail with a tiny storm sail. 

Adding a storm jib on a sail cutter is much easier than a standard sloop. On a sloop, you’d have to remove the large genoa from the bow and then add the storm sail. This operation places the skipper in a challenging situation, which can be avoided on a cutter. 

On a cutter, you can remove the staysail and add the storm jib to the inner forestay. Working a little aft of the bow will give you increased stability while managing the staysail’s smaller load.  

While many modern sailboats are sloop-rigged, cutter-seeking sailors still have options. 

Rustler Yachts

While many new yachts have ditched the sturdy offshore cutter rig in favor of greater simplicity, Rustler is making a name for themselves by bringing it back. It’s still one of the best options for offshore sailing, and it’s great to see a modern yacht company using the rig to its full potential. 

The Rustler doesn’t need a bowsprit to accommodate its cutter rig. The Rustler is set up for single-handed and offshore cruising with all lines managed from the cockpit. Their smaller boats are rigged as easier-to-sail sloops for coastal hops, while the larger 42, 44, and 57 are rigged as true cutters with staysails and yankees.

Cabo Rico Cutters

Cabo Rico built cutters between 34 and 56 feet long. They aren’t currently in production but often come up on the used boat market. They are beautiful, semi-custom yachts that turn heads where ever they go. Of all the cutters the company built, the William Crealock-designed Cabo Rico 38 was the most long-lived, with about 200 hulls built. The second most popular design was the 34. The company also built a 42, 45, 47, and 56—but only a handful of each of these custom beauties ever left the factory. Most of the larger Cabo Ricos were designed by Chuck Paine.

Cabo Ricos have bowsprits, and the staysail is usually club-footed, although owners may have modified this. Cabo Ricos are known for their solid construction, beautiful teak interiors, and offshore capabilities. 

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Hold Fast Sailing (@sparrowsailing)

Pacific Seacraft

Pacific Seacraft features a full line of cutters. Pacific Seacraft boats are known for their construction, durability, and overall quality.

Just a few of the best-known cutters built by Pacific Seacraft include the following.

• Pacific Seacraft/Crealock 34
• Pacific Seacraft/Crealock 37
• Pacific Seacraft 40

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Island Packet Yachts

Island Packet boats are probably the most popular cutter design available today. Designer and company founder Bob Johnson created beautiful cutter-rigged full-keel boats with shallow drafts that were very popular around Florida, the Bahamas, and the east coast of the US.  

Island Packets are known for their comfortable, spacious layouts. Older models could be ordered from the factory as either sloop or cutter-rigged. The result is that you see a mix of the two, as well as plenty of cutters that have removed their staysails to make a quasi-sloop. 

Island Packet is still in business today, but now favors solent-rigged sloops with twin headsails. 

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Hess-Designed Cutters

Lyle Hess designed several famous cutter-rigged boats, including the Falmouth Cutter 22 and the Bristol Channel Cutter 28. These gorgeous boats are smaller than most cruising boats but are a joy to sail. Lyle Hess’ designs were popularized by sailing legends Lin and Larry Pardey, who sailed their small wood-built cutters Serraffyn and Taleisin around the world multiple times.

These beautiful cutters have a timeless look like no other boats. They have inspired many other designs, too. You’ll find them built from both wood or fiberglass, but a variety of builders and yards have made them over the years.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Professional photographer (@gary.felton)

Cutter rigged boats offer cruising sailors a flexible sail plan that’s perfect for offshore sailing. Sailors can adjust the amount of sail according to the current wind conditions. Traditional cutters were known for being fast and agile, and today’s cutters carry on the tradition with pride. 

What is a cutter rigged yacht?

A cutter rigged yacht features two headsails. One headsail, usually a high-cut yankee, is all the way forward, either on a bowsprit or the bow. The staysail is smaller and attached to an inner forestay.

What is the advantage of a cutter rig?

A cutter rig offers cruising sailors more flexibility. They can easily increase and decrease the sail area and choose the optimum combination for the sailing conditions. While there are more lines and sails to handle, each sail is smaller and therefore easier to manage.

Matt has been boating around Florida for over 25 years in everything from small powerboats to large cruising catamarans. He currently lives aboard a 38-foot Cabo Rico sailboat with his wife Lucy and adventure dog Chelsea. Together, they cruise between winters in The Bahamas and summers in the Chesapeake Bay.

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What’s in a Rig? The Cutter Rig

By: Pat Reynolds Sailboat Rigs , Sailboats

What’s in a Rig Series #2

A variation on the last installment of What’s in a Rig (the sloop) is the Cutter Rig. Although it has gone through some changes through the course of history, the modern cutter rig is generally a set-up with two headsails. The forward sail is called the yankee and the one slightly behind it is the staysail.

Cutter rigs are a choice a cruising sailor might opt for more offshore work. Since longer passages usually means encountering heavier weather, the cutter rig can be the perfect choice to have a ready-to-go balanced sailplan when the wind picks up. They are not quite as easy to tack as sloops, but since cruisers go for days without tacking, the ability to quickly furl the yankee and have a small staysail up in a stiff breeze is worth the sacrifice.

Cutter rig fans also enjoy the balance it provides. A small staysail set farther back on the boat and a reefed main is a very solid arrangement on a windy day and for cruisers who want to be comfortable in 25-knots, this is important. Also, a staysail makes heaving-to easier – this is a task far more utilized by the cruising sailor.

So, there you have it – the cutter rig is a set-up preferred by sailors on a voyage. They have disadvantages in how they tack but strengths in how they behave in open-ocean conditions.

What's in a Rig Series:

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Attainable Adventure Cruising

The Offshore Voyaging Reference Site

• Cutter Rig—Optimizing and/or Converting

In the last two chapters I covered why a true cutter is a great rig for short-handed offshore voyaging and how to decide if the cutter rig is right for you .

Now I’m going to cover what it takes to successfully convert a sloop or even a ketch to get most, or maybe even all, of the benefits that we true cutter owners are so damned smug about.

Also, if you have a cutter, but are less than happy with her, read on. Making a cutter rig work really well, like so many things in offshore voyaging, requires getting the details right, and that’s what this chapter is all about.

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More Articles From Online Book: Sail Handling and Rigging Made Easy:

• Six Reasons To Leave The Cockpit Often
• Don’t Forget About The Sails
• Your Mainsail Is Your Friend
• Hoisting the Mainsail Made Easy—Simplicity in Action
• Reefs: How Many and How Deep
• Reefing Made Easy
• Reefing From The Cockpit 2.0—Thinking Things Through
• Reefing Questions and Answers
• A Dangerous Myth about Reefing
• Mainsail Handling Made Easy with Lazyjacks
• Topping Lift Tips and a Hack
• 12 Reasons The Cutter Is A Great Offshore Voyaging Rig
• Cutter Rig—Should You Buy or Convert?
• Cruising Rigs—Sloop, Cutter, or Solent?
• Sailboat Deck Layouts
• The Case For Roller-Furling Headsails
• The Case For Hank On Headsails
• UV Protection For Roller Furling Sails
• In-Mast, In-Boom, or Slab Reefing—Convenience and Reliability
• In-Mast, In-Boom, or Slab Reefing —Performance, Cost and Safety
• Making Life Easier—Roller Reefing/Furling
• Making Life Easier—Storm Jib
• Swept-Back Spreaders—We Just Don’t Get It!
• Q&A: Staysail Stay: Roller Furling And Fixed Vs Hanks And Removable
• Rigid Vangs
• Building A Safe Boom Preventer, Part 1—Forces and Angles
• Downwind Sailing, Tips and Tricks
• Downwind Sailing—Poling Out The Jib
• Setting and Striking a Spinnaker Made Easy and Safe
• Ten Tips To Fix Weather Helm
• Running Rigging Recommendations—Part 1
• Running Rigging Recommendations—Part 2
• Two Dangerous Rigging Mistakes
• Rig Tuning, Part 1—Preparation
• Rig Tuning, Part 2—Understanding Rake and Bend
• Rig Tuning, Part 3—6 Steps to a Great Tune
• Rig Tuning, Part 4—Mast Blocking, Stay Tension, and Spreaders
• Rig Tuning, Part 5—Sailing Tune
• 12 Great Rigging Hacks
• 9 Tips To Make Unstepping a Sailboat Mast Easier
• Cruising Sailboat Spar Inspection
• Cruising Sailboat Standing Rigging Inspection
• Cruising Sailboat Running Rigging Inspection
• Cruising Sailboat Rig Wiring and Lighting Inspection
• Cruising Sailboat Roller Furler and Track Inspection
• Download Cruising Sailboat Rig Checklist

Thanks John, that’s a lot of thought and education for me with my old wooden cutter. Up to now I’ve been thinking of the staysail and the running backstays as generally more of an impediment than a help, especially when single handed, but you’ve made me realise I should be paying more attention to them, and maybe even start using the winches! Keep up the good work.

Thank you, John. Gratitude is a Brewer 44 ketch. She is rigged with a baby stay and tracks that look (from the pictures) like they are well placed. We have dual winches on each side and have a staysail, which we (sorry to admit) have never flown because, when we are offshore, the dinghy is on the foredeck and there is so much stuff up forward. Do you have any experience running a Brewer as a “cutter”? Ted Brewer insists it not be called a cutter ketch, but rather an ketch rig with a double foresail plan. Any thoughts and recommendations would be welcome as, when we are offshore, there usually is enough time to tinker with a rig!

No I have not sailed a Brewer 44, but I know the boat and would expect her to do just fine with a cutter rig, once you get it set up right, as above.

Hi John, Great article, I love my cutter, and find that my boat points at least 5 degrees higher when sailed as a cutter, rather than as a sloop.( I have a removable inner forestay with a Highfield lever for tensioning it) . I have a hanked on staysail , which I prefer on smaller cutter, say under 40 ft. This allows one to have a hanked on storm jib, if things get seriously windy. I appreciate the need for a furling staysail on larger boats, but would always prefer a hanked on storm jib. I have been thinking about replacing my 1x 19 SS running backstays with Spectra or Dyneema. I have not seen any cutters yet that have done so, but there could be a lot of advantages. Any thoughts on that?

We replaced out wire runners with high tech rope some 10 years ago and would never go back to wire. You can see ours in the picks above.

The big advantage is that being lighter they don’t slap around and therefore don’t try to jump out of our hands as we run them forward.

I’ll mention the old fashioned boomed staysail again here since it can eliminate the sheeting track issue and also offers other advantages.

We have a wishbone boomed staysail that sheets to a fixed point. We use twings that lead aft through blocks attached at the inner shroud chainplates for fine adjustments when the wind is forward of the beam and use a preventer when it’s further aft.

The twings don’t need winchs since we can ease the sheet slightly, adjust the twing to its pre-marked position and harden in the sheet again. Excellent sail control on all points of wind.

Like any other system there are disadvantages but it really works well for us and is another option worth considering.

Hi Pat I’m attracted to the wishbone boom as it makes self-tacking elegantly simple and does away with a lot of deck gear. It limits the area to non-overlapping, but that I would easily accept on a staysail. My main concern is how to carry the loads from the forward end of the wishbone boom. Is yours attached to the stay? Wouldn’t that push the stay forwards at that spot, causing deformation of the sail? Or has the sail been shaped with that in mind? Or have you got some other smart system I haven’t yet thought of?

Hi Stein The forward end of our wishbone connects to a SS tube that slides up the 7×7 wire rope stay. It is slightly bowed, has flared ends and a plastic inner sleeve that extends above and below to better distribute the distortion of the stay.

Yes, our sail is cut to allow for the distortion of the stay but I’ve seen a number of wishbone staysails where the piston hanks were simply attached with different lengths of lashing to allow for this.

Hi Pat That attachment method seems good. I think the wear on the wire will be no more than it is at the exits of the terminals, so it will most likely not reduce the working life of the wire. But I still have some questions. 🙂

A sail shaped for the bend in the stay or adjusted at the hanks, will of course be just as well shaped as with any other configuration, but how is the behaviour with different loads and trim tensions on the sail? If you tension the boom outhaul (if that’s the correct English term?) it will increase the push on the stay. Will that make the sail shape uneven so you have to tension the stay, or am I wrong?

Also, I assume you don’t reef the staysail, but keep it either full or take it down? If you reef it, I guess the boom must come down with the sail? Do you know of methods to facilitate reefing?

Hi Stein I haven’t noticed any significant distortion of the luff area due to thrust of the wishbone on the forestay when adjusting outhaul tension. I must admit I am not a fanatic sail trim person but the sail always looks OK. I don’t reef my staysail (I’ve never had to) but can see no reason why not and may well put reefing points on the next one. The bottom portion would remain in place and you would reef the luff and leech down to the boom.

I have to confess that I’m a jib boom hater, part of my fixation on clear decks . Having said that, I agree that there are benefits, but to me they are outweighed by the disadvantages. I suspect that in the final analysis, despite my prejudices, it all comes down to personal preference.

Hi John I understand your dislike of clutter but have found that when it’s not in use the wishbone is a useful handhold amidships when moving about on the foredeck . When it’s in use it’s no more ‘in the way’ than the sail itself.

Hi John. Another good post, as always.

I’ll just give a comment on the polyester vs epoxy topic, and health issues. There is no doubt that epoxy is a better material. Tolerates higher compressive loads, is stiffer but still stretches more without cracking, adheres better, impregnates the fibres better, is watertight (polyester is as watertight as a very dense sponge) and more.

Of course I prefer epoxy, but still there are potential problems. One should be careful with relatively fresh polyester. Even up to a couple of years old, it may in some cases contain enough styrene to damage the epoxy. The styrene evaporation is what gives the stench when polyester hardens, and the characteristic “plastic” smell in new boats. In sufficient amounts, it will soften the epoxy structure permanently.

Most epoxies will cure fine in room temperature with no added pressure and mechanical properties clearly better than any polyester. Still, if cured under pressure (like vacuum bagging) and high temperature (preferably at least 50 degrees C / 120 F) the strength will normally double or triple. Applying those conditions are normally close to impossible in an existing boat. As mentioned, epoxy is still better than polyester, but many boat builders will relate to how it “should be done” and then advice for polyester. They can be honest and even not lazy, just “emotional”. 🙂 Polyester also hardens faster, so the work process is faster, thus cheaper. With epoxy, you frequently have to wait overnight or more.

For self-builders, there is another big problem with epoxy: It’s an extremely strong allergen. Polyester smells really bad, so it’s easy to notice that one should not inhale the fumes but use ventilation and protective gear. Most epoxies make way less fumes and they don’t smell strong, even while curing. Still you need to be more careful. Epoxy fumes and uncured epoxy is serious stuff. If you get wet epoxy on your skin, nothing much happens, normally. It’s sticky but not too hard to wash off. Use water and soap. Alternatively the cleaning stuff used by car mechanics etc. NEVER use any solvent to clean your skin. It will penetrate your skin and bring both solvent and epoxy into your blood. It’s like drinking it!

If you’re sensitive or are repeatedly exposed to epoxy, you will sooner or later get serious skin rashes or blisters. This is an allergic reaction, which epoxy provokes very efficiently. The trouble is that when you had that reaction once, you’re permanently allergic to epoxy, and frequently you will trigger other allergies too. I’ve managed to escape this, by being totally “nazi” with cleanliness and protection, but many of my sailing friends have serious problems with allergies from epoxy exposure. They do have continuous problems with it and wish they had been more careful.

One common bad thing to do is sand hardened epoxy and inhale some of the dust. At “room temperature” 23 degrees Centigrade, 73 Fahrenheit, almost all epoxies will need more than a week to cure fully. The “fast cure” ones too. The epoxy will harden much sooner, but a full cure takes time unless the temperature is significantly higher. Also, a complete cure depends on a thorough mixing of the resin and hardener. If you breathe in not fully cured epoxy dust, you get chemically active particles in your lungs. Not good. After a full cure, it’s way less harmful.

I’m not trying to say that you should avoid epoxy, but I can’t overemphasise this: You are dealing with a chemical reaction that is a really bad match for your body. Being relaxed about it is not smart. To make things worse, being totally clean when working with epoxy is hard. You need to establish methods that work for you and your specific task. If you work inside a boat, I’d use a hose to extract air from further inside the boat than where you are working. That way there will be a continuous flow of air across the work area and away from you. A vacuum cleaner is good enough. Placed it outside the boat, away from where fresh air flows in, with a long hose. Preferably remove the dust collecting bag etc, to increase flow.

You need to use gloves, of course. I normally use “surgical gloves”, those you can buy in most pharmacies. Latex is useless, as epoxy will penetrate them quickly. Vinyl is clearly better, but will also be penetrated. The by far best is “Nitrile rubber”. If you wear thin cotton gloves inside, it will increase the duration of the gloves. Sweaty hands will speed up penetration. Either way, change cloves frequently, depending on how much exposure, but at least every 10 minutes if you get epoxy on them. Use a blocking cream on your hands and lower arms. Use clothes you can dispose of or clean efficiently. Make sure you breathe fresh air. In some situations, a full face mask is smart, those plastic sheets that just cover. Cheap stuff. Make sure you can work without stress. Stress will make you cut corners. Then you will be exposed.

If you take proper care, epoxy is an amazing material and building stuff is great fun! Good luck!

Lot’s of good information, thank you. One of the reasons I recommended the west system products and manuals is that they do a really good job of explaining the safety precautions that we must take when using epoxy.

Also, west even have a manual on how to use vacuum bags.

One thing, I think I’m right in saying that temperature and speed of cure don’t have any measurable effect on strength, at least of West epoxy.

And even if they do, for the applications we are talking about, I don’t think it matters much. On the boats we are dealing with here, if there is any doubt at all, just up the strength of the upgrade or repair.

Bottom line, I fixed an old racing boat with really bad structural issues with the west system and found it all pretty easy and very forgiving to use. And at the end of the project the boat was far, far stronger than she was when new.

Hi John You are completely right on what cure methods mean for this type of use. Epoxy is a structurally very good material no matter how it’s cured. The reason for using higher temps and pressure is not that it’s necessary but that it’s possible and gives improvements. These improvements are important when the epoxy is used like with carbon in a mast, where its physical properties need to be fully exploited.

All epoxies, also West, change their properties with higher temp cures. The data sheets for professional users show this. It’s a property of the base resin. It gets harder and at the same time tolerates more compression and stretch. The purer the epoxy is, the stronger this effect is. The main reason for mentioning it was that it might be why pro users are hesitant to using epoxy in areas they can’t get the max strength out of it. That reason is irrelevant, though. Just a bad excuse to avoid a more work intensive material.

The West Epoxy is primarily aimed at amateurs, so they are good at adapting to that. Lots of good info. I would also recommend their products. Another producer that has some of that focus, but not quite as good on the info, is SP Systems. They also work some with the high-end pros, have a larger spectrum of products and own some of the factories themselves.

Both of these are definitely high on price though. Buying from other sources via industrial channels may lower prices to less than a fourth, or much more, but normally means you need to buy it in barrels and the level of service, users equipment and info is as much lower as the price. You’re expected to know more than the provider. For the use we are talking about here, this is normally a bad solution and West etc will be better even on price, as you can buy small quantities.

Hi John, Yes, that is a problem I have with my SS runners. My method of securing them in the stowed, unused, position, entails passing a hook with a wire strop through the lower eye, and then tensioning them aft ,with a small tackle. It can be a bit of a struggle in rough seas. When you mention ” high tech” rope, what exactly are you using? I too, am totally against staysail booms, bloody dangerous things in my experience. The dangers far outweigh any self tacking benefits, especially offshore. I have a 6500nm delivery to N.Z. on a nice cutter later this month, looking forward to that.

Staysail boom haters unite! 🙂

Sorry, I’m not exactly sure which high tech rope we used. With these things I just tend to trust our rigger, but I can probably find out if it’s important. I’m pretty sure it was not Spectra because of the creep problems, and I know it was not PBO, because Jay doesn’t trust the stuff. I think it may be Technora.

Hi John, We sail a cutter formatted Hylas 47. Two up this sail plan is a dream. I was considering changing my runners to high tech line but am flummixed about how they would get attached up aloft. Currently the rigging wire versions are on T terminals, which fit into slots in the mast. I suppose there must be T terminal fittings that can attach to line but I have not managed to find any – maybe not looked hard enough? any thoughts / ideas would be welcome. Geoff

Hum, I don’t know, but I have to think that there must be a solution for this. Anyone else have any ideas?

I guess, in a worst case, you could have a rigger make up a short wire adapter from T terminal to an eye and then splice the high tech rope to the eye. Not very elegant, but should work.

I believe that you are looking for a “T ball bail”. There are a few different types that will show up if you google it but then you can splice directly to it or form a thimble through the bail.

Great article, and pertinent to my situation. I have a Whitby 42 (that you may know, BTW) that had the mizzen decommissioned. The two static aft stays, I believe, could act very much like running backstays. The removable inner forestay was replaced with a permanent unit (secured below as you mentioned), but does not stand parallel to the forestay/furler. I’m cognitive that this could cause issues with tacking/gybing, but wonder what other performance/trim issues this might present?

I guess it depends exactly where the top of the staysail stay terminates and how much off parallel the two stays are. If the answer is a lot, then I think that’s going to be a big performance hit and going with a true cutter rig might be a mistake.

Stein, Wonderful dissertation on safety and some of the characteristics of the adhesives. Bill, We use high tech rope for our runners and have been very happy with them. Stein, I would also argue against a wishbone rig for all the reasons mentioned. The staysail is just much to easy to tack: with good timing I hand snub most of it in and winch the last few inches, to warrant the extra gear and the danger of something hard flailing about the foredeck. My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

Hi Dick Thanks. 🙂 I agree that a staysail is very easy to tack, but it still takes one person to do it at the right moment. Sailing alone, that’s not always easy, so self-tacking has its value and I have used a lot of different systems that work ok, but not yet tried a wishbone boom, so finding someone with experience makes me curious. I mostly sail multihulls, like solo sailing and I’m a total speed addict, so I know my priorities are not the same as normal cruisers, but maybe still interesting to explore the possibility. Wishbone booms interest me for three reasons: 1. A track is the normal alternative for self-tacking, but clutter the decks badly, are ugly, expensive, vulnerable and unreliable. 2. The wishbone boom has no friction, so the sail will tack without trouble. 2. The sail will be perfectly shaped even at wider angles. Just let out the sail and it’s ready to work at another angle. No need for barber hauls and non-stop balancing of multiple ropes.

To me, it seems that a wishbone boom might give some big advantages that might be important enough to accept the disadvantage of having something moving around there. We either way accept that the main sail must have a boom that is a much bigger risk to us, as it’s mostly moving in the same area as our heads. 🙂

“The sail will be perfectly shaped even at wider angles. Just let out the sail and it’s ready to work at another angle. No need for barber hauls and non-stop balancing of multiple ropes.” This was what I hoped for but hasn’t been my experience and by the sounds of it you are much keener than me! I use haulers when close hauled to adjust leech tension and control sail twist and I usually use a preventer when off the wind. So, yes, there are lines to adjust but these can be done at your leisure after tacking.

Hi Pat I used to do racing as a profession, so I’m more keen on trim and details than most sailors. Meaning that I can be quite annoying when cruising. 🙂 But I still do enjoy cruising, as long as the boat works well and is used right. That’s why I’m interested in discussions here.

Preventers will naturally be useful, but I’d assume nothing else that needs attention after a tack…? An adjustable rope from the rear end of the wishbone boom, along the foot of the sail and attached to the base of the head stay, could keep the leech and twist as you want it.

Hi Stein Yes, I’m sure you would be maddening when cruising – constantly adjusting sail trim :).

Yes, a vang should theoretically keep the leech as wanted but will not control twist effectively. Sheeting from a central point limits control. I don’t find the barber haulers a problem since we are very rarely tacking repeatedly.

Just to clarify, tacking the way Dick and I do it, It doesn’t ” takes one person to do it at the right moment”. I tack our boat single handed all the time and the staysail just hangs out aback until I get around to dealing with it. No urgency or right moment at all.

For me the loss of easily reefing and furling the staysail is a complete killer of the wishbone boom idea. One of the coolest parts of the way we are set up is that we can quickly adjust the staysail size to get the boat the heave-to quietly in all conditions.

I think you may be better served with a self-tacking jib idea. Many production cruisers are now offering neat implementations ( have a look at Hanse for ideas) where the track is moulded onto the coach roof, with a narrow sheeting angle. The only compromise is the staysail/jib cannot overlap the mast which may reduce performance. I do not believe modern self-tackers clutter the decks since they do not come out beyond the line of the coach- roof.

We would have fitted a moulded track on our sloop and gone with a self-tracker, but we have no runners and instead a foreward “baby stay” to stop the mast inverting in extreme conditions, which prevents this. I’m with John on the jib boom idea.

Hi Rob Having sailed a Hanse sloop with a self tacking headsail I comment that it is not a good solution. It may be better for a staysail.

Interesting, this hasn’t been my experience in NZ Pat, but anyway – not my problem as we didn’t go down this track! Rob

Hi Rob I’ve tried a lot of different self-tacking systems. On small boats some of them work fairly ok if they are maintained well. On bigger boats, especially for long distance, I strongly doubt that it’s smart to have any of those. Those tracks are quite vulnerable. A bit of sand will destroy it quickly. Even the slightest disturbance will stop the automatic tacking. When you have to run on deck to kick them over, you don’t feel helped…

I’ve never tried a wishbone boom solution, apart from on windsurfers, but they are interesting in several ways. The most important advantage over tracks, apart from being much less vulnerable, is that it will let the sail keep its shape even at very wide angles with no barber hauls etc. The short tracks in the cabin top of some cruisers are only suitable for max upwind. That’s not frequently useful for cruising.

I’m a big fan of the cutter rig, but I’m also investigating alternative layouts, mostly suitable for fast catamarans, where overlapping sails are generally not too useful either way. That (and general curiosity) is my reason for being interested in details about wishbone solutions.

I agree the sheeting can be narrow narrow, and needs to be coupled with an off wind sail like a Code zero. In stronger winds (especially on a cat) I think the sheeting angle will be sufficient and the jib/ staysail being open in the head will not be a big issue. I raced on a 10m yacht class here in NZ with self-tacking jibs, and never had an issue. Why should jib tracks jam any more than mainsail tracks which nearly every yacht has?

The thought of a substantial jib boom sweeping our foredeck at knee height is much more worrying to me than any self-tacking jib issue. In the final analysis, we chose to keep things simple and opted for a conventionally rigged 100% jib. This tacks so quickly that a self-tracker / jib boom didn’t offer enough to warrant the cost/ added complexity.

Hi Rob Self tackers and wishbones are probably off topic, and I feel guilty for keeping this going on, but one more comment: I love simplicity almost as much as I love speed, 🙂 so I think a convensional sheet system on a cutter staysail is a good solution, probably the best in most cases. My interest in a wishbone boom is mostly connected to other rather uncenventional layouts, but Pat here likes his setup, so it must have some merit.

I’ve sailed racing multihulls with heavy duty mainsail tracks, longer than the LOA of some cruisers. Even those do jam slightly sometimes, but the consequences are normally minimal. The mainsail traveller only needs to move in gybes etc, when the sheet is looser, friction lower and the power pushing them out is always sufficient, as long as there is any wind. Upwind it stays in the centre. No movement.

A jib track needs to move under max tension, has much tighter angles and must move to the exact same spot every time. It gets less push the closer it is to the end stops and frequently rope tension increases at the same time. Good jib tracks with good control systems do do it perfectly, most of the time, but a trickier task means they fail way more often. A long distance cruiser can easily live with that, but I think the advantages are not worth the disadvantages. I think we agree on most of this topic. 🙂

Hi Rob The Hanse set up wasn’t bad with full sail and going to windward. With it partially furled or off the wind I found the sheeting point was far from ideal. Pat

my cutter experience is essentially nil hence this basic question re cutter tacking: I’m sure the stay sail tacks easily but not so with the Genny or the job top ? seems will need to furl this in enough to clear the inner stay then roll it back out once on the new tack ? pls pardon my ignorance on this…also do you know if matt has seen my question about sail drive prop efficiency I posted on his recent article re props ? would appreciate having his take on this when he can…cheers

richard in Tampa bay

Hi Richard,

No, it is not necessary to furl the jib top to tack. I described the procedure under #8 in this post .

We were out on another test sail yesterday and found even with a staysail stay relatively close to the forestay (about two feet or 60 cm.), it was fairly straightforward to tack (we haven’t done it for some time). To gybe is a different story, but the idea of letting the staysail back until the jib topsail is through (and in fact using the staysail as a sort of ramp to “help” the process) is quite practical. I explained “#8” to my wife and she grasped it immediately and wondered why a lot of people furl to tack. This pleased me. I also agree about staysail and main. Sure, you can’t point well, but it’s a lot more stately a progress if things are getting a touch hairy.

You may be interested in the sail plan of my boat: https://numawan.wordpress.com/2007/09/30/le-plan-de-voilure-the-sail-plan/#more-4

John … Great piece on cutter rigs – i’ve been following this closely after considering a conversion (currently have 135 Genoa and 10o Staysail, both on furlers) for a Hylas 49 … Been trying to solve several problems, boat tacks like a dog getting the 135 through the slot, frequently I’m short handed (my wife and I) and the 135 gets to be a handful in a blow, sails are pretty blown out anyway – so looking for a new set…. Have you ever seen you recommended arrangement (100-110 Yankee + Staysail ) rigged on a Hylas 49 ?

I don’t have any experience with Hylas 49, but, as I remember, the hull is based on the 1980s Stevens 47, a sweet offshore boat. Also, the underwater body is somewhat similar to our boat. Bottom line being that I think the boat will work very well set up the same way we are as a cutter.

Great article John. In TS Bill 25-35+ close reaching in the meander in Marion Bermuda this year with our brand new 9oz full dimension staysail we often unrolled our 133% #2 laminate Genoa which became a small topsail. For reaching the staysail is trimmed to the Genoa track just aft of the shrouds and the reefed jib is sheeted to the rail. As the aging #2 Genoa breathed its last just as we crossed the line at St Davids, we will be ordering a harmonious topsail for the staysail. The new adjustable Genoa cars will move to new staysail tracks on the coach roof as you suggest. Since our J42 may be slimmer at the waist than Morgan’s Cloud, could you please let us know the sheeting angle close hauled of your staysail and topsail? Some proportioning will help sighting our new cabin tracks. Cheers Bill SV ComverJence

Sounds like a plan.

Actually, on a beam to length ratio basis, MC is probably no wider that your J42. In fact she maybe narrower, at least if we use overall length for L.

Be that as it may, I don’t know the exact sheeting angle, but anyway, I think it would be a mistake just to copy our track position, particularly on boats this different. Rather, as I say in the article, get your sail designer to specify the sheeting angle. They should know since sheeting angle is fundamental to sail design.

To Geoff Skinner I have T fittings with an eye to facilitate splicing line, from Gibb via Sailing Services, Miami. You have to know the size of your socket. Fair Winds

To Geoff Skinner re: T end fittings with ring are actually by Alexander-Roberts to fit Gibb sized sockets I sourced them from Sailing Services in Miami

Thanks for fielding that.

John, (and other cutter savvy readers)

As always, a knock out interesting article that I have been pondering for some time that introduced new viewpoints that I had not considered before. For instance, the diagram that shows why the deck sweepers are such inefficient reaching sails because of the catch 22 of needing to move the sheet lead forward and aft at the same time…amazing!

I was wondering (probably along with other readers) about weather helm and tricks (sail trims) you use to reduce it on a cutter rig. We have a wonderful Brewer 12.8 with cutter rig, but I struggle to reduce weather helm when close reaching. Besides putting on some backstay tension, easing the vang a bit to allow the main to twist, and reefing the main, do you have cutter specific things you learned to help balance the boat?

Our jib is probably best described as high clewed genoa. It is a big sail, but the sheet angles are similar to that of a yankee, with the leads close to the center cockpit.

Thanks in advance. You the man! Conor

Thanks for the kind comments.

First off, have you read the above chapter (I moved your comment)? Lot’s of tips that will help.

It’s really hard to diagnose a weather helm problem without sailing on the boat, but here are a few places to look:

• What sort of shape are the sails in? If they are old and the shape has blown back, thereby tightening the leach, that will give you weather helm that is just about impossible to fix without buying new sails.
• Is the mast raked too far aft?
• Is the mast tuned so that it takes a nice fair bend ,that conforms to the main design when backstay tension is applied.
• Are the two headsail leaches nice and parallel and is the separation about equal, as shown in the shots above?

Hi John, Great article and comments. It’s amazing how little information is available about cutter rigs. I was pleased to see a picture of Mai Tai in the beginning of this article representing the cutter family. I do want to mention something that may be worth a look: Cutter rigs have two sets of spreaders on the mast to give side or lateral support to the rig at the point where the “inner forestay” attaches. The second or higher set of spreaders is where the inner forestay should attach. If there is only one set of spreaders you will have to attach the inner forestay at such a low point that the staysail area will be reduced beyond effectiveness. Running back stays should be used to prevent fore and aft pumping of the rig but they will not provide enough lateral stability to hold the mast straight when flying the staysail. So there is more to converting a sloop to a cutter than first meets the eye. Intermediate shrouds need to be added and a second set of spreaders. This means chain plates in the hull, more wire rigging, turnbuckles and two more spreaders. Personally, I would buy a cutter to begin with and forget the conversion.

Cheers from New Zealand Lane and Kay Finley

Welcome back! Even though you have just pointed out a glaring omission on my part…thanks…I think. :-).

Seriously, a very good point, although not a killer these days when so many boats have two spreader rigs.

Dear John, I have a Pan Oceanic 46 cutter designed by Ted Brewer and I am in the process of making a new set of sails for my Genoa and staysail with Lee Sails in Hong Kong. I do not have much experience sailing cutter when I bought her (SV Sunrise), her set of sails were too old (and baggy) for me to make any deductions of what to ask for in my new set of sails. I have read your post on how the 2 sails should work together and will certainly discuss that with Lee Sails. However, I do have one observation that I am not sure if it is worth pursuing to improve upon; Sunrise does not go to close haul well. The best angle with the set of baggy sails is 45 degrees with about 18-20 degrees of heel. I mentioned that I am not sure if it is worth pursuing is because many opinions I got from the internet indicates that (1) cutter are generally not designed to sail close haul as a major consideration and (2) a semi-full keel are likewise not designed for close haul. But then again, there are opposing comments (to some degree) to the above. Hence I am exploring maximizing Sunrise’s close haul ability to sail as close to the wind as much as possible with a new set of sail since I am replacing them anyway. Your views and of others sailors are very much appreciated.

One other thing I notice is that the clew on SV Morganscloud is high compare to a conventional Genoa. It is more like a high cut Yankee. I thought that it is best aerodynamicall for the clew to be as low as possible (ie decksweeper) to maximize efficiency (less spillage at the foot and low centre of pressure of the Genoa equals less heel). The clew is raised on a cruising boat to allow forward view when sailing which is owner dependent. What may be your reason for a high cut Yankee as oppose to a conventional Genoa?

Please direct me to the correct page in your website if these topics have already been discussed as I cannot seem to find them on the search engine. Thanks much,

A full read through of this chapter and the last will answer the low cut genoa issue (don’t do it). A few other thoughts.

• Nothing is going to make this boat a windward machine and 45 degrees is not bad at all for this type of boat.
• Have you considered going with a sailmaker that has a local representative in your area? Yes, I know it will cost more, but getting input from a good sailmaker is invaluable and can save you a bundle in the end by making sure you get the right sails and they work together. You will find hints about choosing the right sailmaker in the above article and here: https://www.morganscloud.com/2009/11/18/how-we-buy-sails/
• Don’t try and crowd source this decision on the forums. Many, (perhaps most) forum denizens have more opinions than knowledge. (AAC is not a forum) and it’s very hard to sort the few who know what they are talking about from the noise.

Hi John, have read the chapters. Very informative and addictive read. I should get back to work really! Ok, while preparing for the long cruising voyage (could be 4 to 7 years time) we as a family have to do with coastal sailing on our blue water cruiser. Many times the wind is on our nose and how i wish Sunrise could point higher and get there a little faster. Hence my exploration to increase the close haul performance. I can see the benefits of a true cutter for a short handed crew (basically, only my wife and I as our toddlers are a liabilities) and when the time comes for more reaching and downwind sailing arrives, I am really thinking how one can improve the upwind performance of a cutter rigged cruiser. Well, it gets worse. When we bought Sunrise, she came with a behind the mast roller furling main (Famet system which is now defunct). I know that is a very inefficient sail but a lot our sister boat owners advise against getting rid of it because of the ease of handling the main from the cockpit because the main is a big sail to hoist and handle on the conventional system. I have done some research and think that the Antal system is the way to go. But the system is expensive and I dont have the budget for it right now (including new gooseneck, reefing system etc). So I am “putting up” with the furling main until the kitty is more full but my wife thinks that I shouldnt for a short handed boat. Anyway, that is for another day. Meanwhile, I just play with the sails..

Rob: For what it’s worth, I have a steel full keel cutter with a largish staysail and a Yankee cut jib on a shortish bowsprit. I concur that 45 degrees is not unreasonable, but you can experiment with stay tensioning and certain techniques, such as backwinding the jib, to make your tacks more efficient, if not much higher. Tuning’s a bit of an art, but one well worth learning, in my view.

I just installed a Tides Marine track, full batten cars and “slippery” slugs on our new main and so far we are very pleased with the sail handling. The cost was about $1,000 for the gear, which was about 25% of the cost of the new main. You may wish to stick with the old main until you’re ready to commit. Were it me, I would change things up all at once.

BTW, how high does Morganscloud sail upwind to as a true cutter?

There’s no simple answer to that, depends on leeway, sea state and wind strength. In any sort of sea we make good about 50 degrees to the true wind angle, but at least 4 degrees of that is leeway due to our comparatively shallow draft and nothing to do with the cutter rig.

A good thing to remember when discussing close windedness is that most people lie about it, or at least are mixed up about true and apparent wind angles, or forget leeway. Almost no cruising boat, and few cruiser racers, actually make good even 45 degrees true wind angle unless the water is dead smooth. Also true and apparent wind angles on sailing instruments are almost never accurate.

Lest you thing that 50 degrees is a bad number, as the forum denizens will tell you, I need to point out that we are talking about a two time class winner of the Newport Bermuda race here.

As I say in the posts, a sloop with a low cut genoa will have better VMG in smooth water inshore. In the ocean over a multi day passage a properly tuned and sailed cutter will kick ass and take names, particularly if both boats are short handed. The key to fast ocean cruising rig is not close windedness (within reason) it’s all around speed—it’s not how fast you go that counts, it’s how often you go fast.

Even inshore, a bit of tactics counts for a lot more than 5 degrees of pointing: https://www.morganscloud.com/2010/11/04/racing-to-cruise/

Finally, there’s a simple cure for leeway and pointing too: 1200 rpm on the engine.

Hi Marc, Thanks for the advice. You boat sounds a bit like my boat except for the sails which I am about to make a decision on. I have not ventured to rig tuning yet but will do once the new sails are on. I have never heard of Tide Marine but I will check it out. The Antal system I looked at for a 46ft boat is in the region of $4000 excluding the sail!

Antal (and Harken) make fine products and on a different boat I would be happy to have them. The Tides Marine external track (which one measures with the special kit they send first) is sturdy and allows full battens and smooth dousings. It was a compromise but as we were getting an ocean-grade main, it was a logical one. Be prepared to grind your slug gate a little larger, however, should you choose to go this route. You may find this and the links off it instructive: http://alchemy2009.blogspot.ca/2016/05/sticking-around.html

Lastly, if you are tuning in earnest for the first time, remember to check and snug up your chain plate bolts first and to take it easy and to get a racing sailor aboard to help. Employ rum if needed.

I think your boat may be a bit big for the Tides system. A good mainsail slide system is a true blessing. Might be better to save up for a good one than cheap out.

Hi John, yes you are right. We close haul at 45 degrees to apparent wind. The one that is indicated on the Raymarine dial. Our system isnt wired (yet) to indicate True wind to us. Therefore we use the apparent wind angle as an indicator because when the boat moves, it is the wind angle that she sees. About Sailmaker. I live in Singapore and we do not have a local sailmaker here as the sailing community is not big enough. Lots of powerboats. Lee Sail in Hong Kong is just about the nearest and I was about to make a decision on a lowish cut Genoa until I read your posts. Our boat was designed as a true cutter and at one time i wanted to convert her to a full sloop for better upwind sailing. I am now doing a lot of rethinking and rereading your posts…

I have a low-cut genoa for strictly light air, but the standard sail is a high-cut Yankee. It is very versatile and only starts to get useless when 50% rolled up or so. The staysail can, if desired, have a set of reef points put it for truly hairy conditions. Some prefer both jib and staysail to be on furlers; I prefer the bulletproof (to me) hank-on staysail and storm staysail. With these two, we can run off in 50 knots. The trick to loving a cutter is to sail it in all weathers. Then you learn its qualities and forget stuff like the big old tacks you have to make.

OK, I see why you are so worried about this. 45 degrees to the apparent wind will equate to around a 120 degree tacking angle, and that’s pretty bad. First step, is, as you have determined, new sails. That and decent tuning should get you at least a 20 degree improvement in tacking angle which will be a huge improvement in VMG.

Good spotting, John. I thought he meant 45 degrees either side of the true wind, meaning a 90 degree tack, or close reach to close reach, I suppose.

Hi Marc and John, thanks for the advice. Will discuss Yankee jib and a low cut staysail with my sail maker and see what they come up with…

Hi John, I am working on my new sail in earnest. Can you explain what do you mean by ” the staysail stay should be parallel to the headstay and set about 30% of the foretriangle base (J) back from the headstay.” My boat’s main sail is a behind the mast roller furling sail with batten and has a straight leech. I know it is not an efficient sail but offer the convenience not getting out of the cockpit on a shorthanded boat. On its own, it does not give much forward speed to the boat. Say for a 10 knot wind, the boat moves only 3 knots (assuming no current). The genoa was the main driving force. Now, if I were to go for a Yankee jib and staysail combo, how do I get them right to compensate for an inefficient main. Bigger sail area?

I explain all of that in the three chapters on cutters.

Hi John, ok, thanks. Rob

Hi John, I am about to make a purchase of my Yankee jib and staysail. For the staysail Sail maker recommended a 9.4oz cross cut furling Dacron (10.76m luff x 3.9m foot x 9.6m leech). I think that should be ok as it is not a very big sail. The Yankee is a bit tricky because I am deciding on the cut and material. Sail maker recommends a 8.8oz cross cut furling Dacron (15.45m luff x 7.6m foot x 12.09m leech) or a tri-radial cut 9.1oz USwt Challenge Warp Drive dacron(WD9.11). The tri-radial cut is 50% more expensive than the cross cut option. I know you mentioned that the tri-radial cut is the way to go but my reservation is on the material (which I have not heard of anyone who has used it before) and a first timer converting to a true cutter sail plan and of course the cost. How much different in sailing performance is there between the cross cut and tri radial cut?

When I make a recommendation in a chapter like this I have thought about it a lot and it’s my recommendation. It would only change in light of new technology. I don’t believe this to be the case here.

My understanding is that the differences in cut distribute the sailing forces differently across the sail. The weight and strength of the material (is “Warp Drive” equivalent to “HydraNet”, which is Dacron beefed up with Ultra-PE?) is a separate metric. I went with a fairly robust weight of regular Dacron for my new main because of my reefing habits; my cutter’s Yankee is also stock Dacron, but were I to replace it, I would opt for a tri-radial cut as I suspect you can reduce stretch and bag over time. Me, I prefer a lighter cloth for the Yankee and an earlier furl.

If you don’t have money for the more expensive sail, moderation of your sailing habits to more conservatism is the cost of keeping the sail an equal number of miles at sea, I would think.

I have a bit more time today. I have no experience with warp drive, but I can say that laminates are now pretty reliable, so I would not worry too much about that. Also, it’s important to realize that with sails, like many things, initial cost and cost of ownership are two different things. So, while a crosscut woven Dacron sail may seem cheeper I have often found that a radial cut laminate sail keeps it’s shape so much better that in the end it can be a more economical choice.

In addition you will have more fun sailing your boat with a better sail.

Bottom line, cross cut is simply wrong for high cut jibs. In fact, even back in the day when I was sailmaking, long before radial cut headsails, we used to miter cut high cut sails for just this reason.

Hi Marc, very sound advice. Yes, I must admit that money is not on my side with so many things to do on the boat plus a family. I would like to go for a Dacron tri-radial cut but my sail maker does not do a Tri-radial cut with the standard Dacron. He would use laminates of Wrap Drive. But there is so little that can be found on Wrap Drive on the internet. Is it as good as the Hydranet? (my sailmaker does not use Hydranet, only Challenger material I think). So, is Wrap Drive worth the 50% increase in price? Not a question to you but to myself. But I appreciate the spirit of your honest sharing. Cheers mate,

Hi John, interesting that you mention that laminates are “pretty reliable”. All the feedback I got is to steer clear from it as it has a life of at most 5 years plus all the problems with mild dew. The only sailors I know who uses them are racers. In fact I do not know of any cruiser who uses laminates. Most use standard Dacron and Hydranet. Wrap Drive is not a laminate but Dacron with “wrap yarn” (whatever that is) to perform like laminate. I am uncertain of the maintenance requirements/issues, ease to repair and durability of the material to really make an informed decision. I think it is too new in the market. And yes, point taken on the tri-radial cut for a Yankee.

Leech line. most times it is difficult to reach the clew to adjust it while sailing. How does one do it on a Yankee which has an even higher clew. A friend of mine suggested using “over the Head” leech line where the lines goes over the head of the sail, comes along the luff to the (near) tack. It has a small block at the head to facilitate the acute turn of the leech line at the head. Have you had any experience or comments on this system of leech line?

As I said, I have no experience of Warp Drive, but after having a quick look it looks like a competitor to Hydra Net. Anyway, you have my opinions. Be aware that most forum denizens just repeat mythes, so making buying decisions based on “accepted wisdom” on a forum often leads to tears. Before Hydra Net was available, I used laminates for cruising and racing for years and had good service. If you are cruising full time, 5 years can be good, not poor service, it all depends on the miles. I generally find that a well made set of radial cut sails will last about 30,000 miles before losing their shape to the point I can no longer stand to sail with them.

And yes, leading the leach over the head is the required for a high cut sail, and something that any decent sailmaker should do as the default.

Hi Marc, this is from Curisersforum : “Warp is pretty much a marketing play to get you to pay 40% extra for a dacron sail. It’s still simply a woven dacron cloth and it will stretch on the bias just like any other (good tight weave) dacron cloth. In no-way will it perform (low stretch) like a laminate cloth.

There have been numerous attempts to make a woven dacron that is strong in one direction into good sails and they have all failed. Using Pentex fibers (a high modulus dacron) in one direction was all the marketing a rage a while ago. However, ALL woven cloth will stretch on the bias (that is at 45 degrees across the weave) no matter how low stretch the fibers or un-crimped the weave is. This is just a simple fact of the physics of weaving. And this is true if its cross cut or tri-radial. These attemps have tended to produce sails with shorter longivity than regular dacron cross-cut (because they try to use the low stretch in one direction and overload the bias direction).”

I guess the best advice is from someone who has actually used it.

Hi John, Thank you for taking the time to read into Wrap Drive. I really didnt expect you to as you already have a lot on your plate looking after your website. I was hoping perhaps some sailors in this discussion would have some experience. I am taking your opinions and advice thus far very favourably and seriously. Cheers,

Hi John, sunstrip protection for sails. Do you have any experience of using Challenge UV150 and Sunbrella as sunstrip for the Yankee and staysail? Of course in terms of performance, it is preferred not to have any sunstrip at all as it leaves the trailing edge of the sail relatively smooth. But in the tropics, some protection is needed. There is another option of using a laced up “sock”. But that needs another halyard plus more fabric to stow… And advice would be most appreciated. Thanks,

I don’t like Sunbrella for a sunstrip; too heavy so it distorts sail shape. Our sailmaker uses a self-adhesive product that works well and adds very little weight. I’m not sure what the product name is, but your sailmaker should know.

I am refitting a 1990 Cabo Rico 34 cutter with new sails and have been advised by my sailmaker that a 135 jib top “will give her more power up wind” whereas my internet research into the few other CR34 cutters that I could find shows those boats have anywhere from 110s to 130s for the jib top. Do you have an opinion on the 135 versus a smaller sail? And radial versus cross cut? I am also converting the staysail from hanked on to roller furling and dispensing with the boom. Any reason to consider retaining the boom as opposed to free footing the staysail? Of course I want to retain good self tacking ability as I single hand a lot. Thanks for a great website/resource.

If you are going to sail her as a true cutter using the Jib Top and staysail together any time the wind is forward of the beam, in my opinion, it would be a major mistake to build the jib top with that much overlap. I detail the reasons in these three chapters on the cutter rig. If you want more sail for light air performance buying a light air sail like a code 0 is almost always a much better solution than trying to add a bunch of area to the jib top.

Does your sailmaker clearly understand that you are planning to sail her as a true cutter with both headsails in use at the same time?

Cutter-Rigged Sailboat Definition: Everything You Need to Know

by Emma Sullivan | Aug 12, 2023 | Sailboat Lifestyle

Short answer cutter-rigged sailboat definition:

A cutter-rigged sailboat is a type of sailing vessel characterized by its rigging configuration, which includes a single mast set further aft and multiple headsails. This design offers versatility in various wind conditions, providing better control and balance while sailing.

1) What is a Cutter-Rigged Sailboat? A Comprehensive Definition

A cutter-rigged sailboat is a versatile and elegant type of sailing vessel that offers sailors a range of benefits and capabilities. With its distinctive rigging setup, the cutter sailboat has long been favored by sailors for its maneuverability, stability, and ability to handle different wind conditions. In this comprehensive definition, we will delve into the intricacies of the cutter rig and explore why it remains a popular choice among sailing enthusiasts.

At its core, a cutter-rigged sailboat features a specific arrangement of sails and mast configuration. Unlike other types of rigs like sloop or ketch, a cutter possesses two headsails – both the jib and staysail. The jib is usually larger and set forward to catch the main flow of wind, while the staysail sits between the foremost mast (known as the foremast) and the mainmast. This arrangement provides maximum control over different wind speeds and directions. While some smaller cutters may have only one mast, larger vessels often boast multiple masts, creating an impressive silhouette on the water.

One of the main advantages of a cutter rig is its versatility in handling various weather conditions . The combination of a large jib upfront with its increased surface area allows for heightened propulsion when sailing downwind or with favorable winds behind you. On the other hand, when facing challenging upwind conditions where close-hauled sailing is required, a smaller but easily controllable staysail comes into play. This dual headsail setup gives sailors better options for optimal sail configurations depending on wind angles – an invaluable feature that makes cutters ideal for long-distance cruising or racing.

Additionally, stability plays a crucial role in determining why many sailors opt for cutter-rigged sailboats . With two headsails set in front of your boat ‘s centerline but balanced proportionately around it, there’s less chance of being overpowered by strong gusts or unsteady winds compared to single-headsail rigs like sloops. This inherent stability allows for better control and reduces the risk of a sudden broach, which can be particularly crucial when sailing in harsh or unpredictable conditions.

Not only does the cutter setup provide superior handling, but it also enhances safety on the water. Since the staysail can easily be brought down or adjusted independently from the larger jib, sail changes are more manageable and less physically demanding for crew members. This flexibility is particularly vital during challenging weather conditions, as it minimizes time spent on deck in potentially dangerous situations .

Beyond its functional advantages, there’s an undeniable aesthetic appeal to cutter-rigged sailboats that captivates sailors and admirers alike. The imposing presence of multiple masts adorned with gracefully billowing sails creates an aura of classic beauty that pays homage to traditional sailing vessels of old. Whether cruising leisurely along coastlines or partaking in thrilling racing competitions, a cutter’s stylish design ensures you’ll turn heads wherever you go.

In conclusion, a cutter-rigged sailboat is a comprehensive embodiment of functionality, style, and adaptability on the water. With its distinct two-headsail setup providing excellent control across varying wind conditions, it stands out as an ideal choice for serious sailors seeking an enhanced sailing experience. From its versatility to stability and safety benefits – not to mention its timeless elegance – no wonder cutters remain cherished by seafaring enthusiasts worldwide who appreciate both tradition and innovation in their voyages.

2) Understanding the Cutter-Rigged Sailboat: Definition and Characteristics

Are you a sailing enthusiast looking to explore different types of sailboats? If so, then understanding the cutter-rigged sailboat is essential. This unique and versatile vessel has its own distinct features and characteristics that set it apart from other types of sailboats . So, let’s dive into the world of the cutter-rigged sailboat , exploring its definition and noteworthy qualities.

First, let’s start with the definition. A cutter rig is a specific type of sailing rig configuration typically found on smaller to medium-sized boats. Unlike other rigs such as sloops or ketches, which have only one headsail (the foresail), the cutter rig features multiple headsails.

The most prominent feature of a cutter rig is its dual headsails – a jib and staysail. The jib is the larger headsail located forward of the mast, while the staysail is positioned between the mast and forestay (the primary vertical support for the mast).

Why two headsails? Well, this setup provides incredible versatility and adaptability in various wind conditions. By utilizing both sails in combination or individually, a sailor can easily adjust their sail plan to maximize performance based on wind strength and direction.

Let’s talk about some remarkable characteristics that make the cutter rig stand out:

1. Upwind Performance: The presence of two headsails provides increased control when sailing upwind, allowing for better pointing ability into the wind. The staysail helps balance out the forces acting on the boat, reducing weather helm (the tendency of a boat to turn towards the wind) compared to other rig configurations .

2. Offshore Capabilities: Cutter rigs are renowned for their seaworthiness. With their ability to handle heavy weather conditions offshore, many serious cruisers prefer this rig type for long-distance voyages or bluewater sailing adventures .

3. Redundancy and Safety: Having two separate headsails not only enhances performance but also acts as a backup in case of damage or failure. If one headsail gets damaged, the sailor can simply drop it and continue sailing with the remaining sail. This redundancy is particularly useful during extended cruising or when sailing far from shore.

4. Versatility in Sailing Conditions: Cutter-rigged sailboats excel in a wide range of wind conditions, from light airs to strong winds. The ability to switch between different combinations of sails allows sailors to optimize their performance regardless of the prevailing weather conditions on their journey.

5. Ease of Handling: Despite having multiple sails, cutter rigs can be easily managed by a small crew or even single-handedly. The sail area is distributed across the two headsails, making them more manageable compared to larger single headsails found on sloops or ketches.

So there you have it – an introduction to understanding the cutter-rigged sailboat and its defining characteristics. From increased upwind performance to offshore capabilities and versatility in various weather conditions, this rig configuration offers a unique sailing experience that avid sailors find both thrilling and practical.

If you’re looking for a vessel that combines adaptability, safety, and ease of handling without compromising performance, then exploring the world of cutter-rigged sailboats might be your next exciting venture!

3) Step-by-Step Guide to Defining a Cutter-Rigged Sailboat

Welcome to our step-by-step guide on defining a cutter-rigged sailboat. If you’re new to the world of sailing or simply curious about this particular rigging style, you’ve come to the right place. Whether you’re envisioning sweeping journeys across the open seas or peaceful cruises along the coastline, understanding the intricacies of a cutter-rigged sailboat will equip you well for your adventures.

Step 1: Understanding the Basics Before delving into the specifics, let’s start with some fundamental knowledge. A cutter rig consists of multiple sails and is one of the most versatile options for sailboats . It typically features three sails: a foresail (the headsail), a mainsail, and a smaller third sail known as a staysail.

Step 2: Exploration and Considerations Now that we have grasped the general concept, it’s time to dive deeper into what makes a cutter rig unique. One key characteristic lies in its ability to handle various wind conditions exceptionally well due to its versatility. This adaptability ensures safety and efficiency even when facing unpredictable weather patterns during your sailing journeys.

Moreover, consider how different materials can affect performance while designing your ideal cutter-rigged boat. Sails made from modern materials such as polyester or nylon are durable and lightweight, enabling more efficient manipulation of wind power.

Step 3: Factors Influencing Cutter Rig Choices Defining your sailboat requires weighing several factors impacting your desired experience . First and foremost, think about your preferred cruising grounds – whether it’s serene lakes or challenging ocean waters – as this significantly influences sail arrangement decisions.

Furthermore, consider elements like mast height and placement; these variables directly impact how effectively the boat harnesses wind power for optimum performance. An experienced naval architect or yacht designer will be an invaluable resource when making these choices.

Step 4: Essential Equipment Next up is selecting essential equipment that complements your intended sailing lifestyle. When defining a cutter rig, it is crucial to invest in robust and reliable hardware to guarantee smooth sailing . Pay close attention to components such as winches, blocks, and furling systems, which all contribute to ease of handling and overall safety.

Step 5: Expert Advice Consulting with seasoned sailors or professionals within the sailing community can significantly enhance your understanding and decision-making process. Engaging in forums or seeking advice from experienced yacht brokers can provide valuable insights into different cutter rigs available on the market today.

This additional expertise ensures that you choose a cutter-rigged sailboat tailored specifically to your needs and desires while balancing practicality and performance.

Step 6: Balance Between Style and Functionality Ensuring your sailboat reflects your personal aesthetic preferences is also an essential aspect of defining a cutter rig . From sleek lines to elegant finishes, embrace the opportunity to infuse your unique style into the boat’s design without compromising its functionality.

Step 7: Maintenance and Upkeep Lastly, once you’ve defined your dream cutter-rigged sailboat , it’s important to consider maintenance requirements. Regular cleaning, inspection of equipment for wear and tear, as well as staying up-to-date with technological advancements will guarantee longevity and reliability throughout your sailing adventures .

Whether it’s chasing sunsets or conquering challenging waters, following this step-by-step guide will assist you in defining a cutter-rigged sailboat that fulfills all your nautical aspirations. With careful consideration of each component alongside expert input, you’ll be primed for unforgettable voyages while captivating fellow sailors with both the elegance and efficiency of your chosen rigging style.

4) Frequently Asked Questions about the Definition of a Cutter-Rigged Sailboat

Frequently Asked Questions about the Definition of a Cutter-Rigged Sailboat

When it comes to sailboats, there are numerous rigging options available, each with its own unique set of characteristics. One such design that has captivated the sailing community for generations is the cutter rig . Known for its versatility and performance capabilities, cutter-rigged sailboats have become a popular choice among experienced sailors. If you’re curious to learn more about this type of sailboat rig, we’ve compiled some frequently asked questions to demystify the definition of a cutter-rigged sailboat.

Q: What exactly is a cutter-rigged sailboat? A: A cutter rig refers to a specific arrangement of sails on a boat , consisting of two or more headsails and a mainsail. Unlike other rig configurations like sloops or ketches, where only one headsail is present in front of the mast, cutters feature multiple headsails set on separate forestays. The most common setup includes a staysail forward of the mast and a larger headsail (typically referred to as the genoa) on the foretriangle.

Q: Why would someone choose a cutter rig over other rig types ? A: One significant advantage of the cutter rig lies in its versatility and adaptability to various weather conditions . With two or more headsails onboard, sailors have greater control over their boat ‘s power and balance. The option to reef or furl both headsails independently allows for efficient sail area reduction during high winds while maintaining excellent maneuverability when under power alone. This makes cutters particularly appealing for long-distance cruising or offshore passages.

Q: Are there any disadvantages to choosing a cutter rig? A: Like any design choice, there are trade-offs associated with opting for a cutter-rigged sailboat. While offering enhanced flexibility compared to other rigs, cutters require additional hardware such as multiple forestays and halyards which may increase maintenance requirements. Additionally, the complex sail plan can require more crew effort and expertise to handle effectively, especially during maneuvers and sail changes. However, with proper training and experience, these challenges can be overcome.

Q: Can a cutter-rigged sailboat perform well in racing? A: While cutter rigs are not commonly found on the race circuit as they once were, that doesn’t mean they lack performance capabilities. Due to their ability to carry multiple headsails of varying sizes, cutters excel in heavy weather conditions where wind strength is typically higher. In races that encompass offshore or longer passages, cutters can often showcase their advantage over more limited-rigged vessels like sloops or Bermuda rigs.

Q: Are there any famous examples of cutter-rigged sailboats ? A: Yes! Some iconic examples of cutter-rigged sailboats include the historic Joshua Slocum’s Spray, which he sailed solo around the world in the late 19th century, and Eric Tabarly’s splendid Pen Duick series racing yachts. These vessels demonstrated the capabilities and enduring appeal of this rig type .

In conclusion, a cutter rig offers sailors an adaptable and versatile solution for their sailing needs. With its ability to handle various weather conditions while maintaining maneuverability and control under power alone, it’s no wonder why this rig configuration has stood the test of time. Although it requires some additional maintenance considerations and sailing proficiency compared to other options such as sloops or ketches, those who value performance and flexibility will find a cutter-rigged sailboat a worthy choice for both cruising adventures and competitive racing endeavors.

5) Exploring the Key Features of a Cutter-Rigged Sailboat: A Detailed Definition

In the world of sailing, there are a plethora of sailboat designs and rigging setups to choose from. Each configuration offers unique advantages and characteristics that cater to different sailing styles and conditions. One popular choice amongst avid sailors is the cutter-rigged sailboat.

What exactly is a cutter-rigged sailboat , you may ask? Well, let’s delve into this fascinating topic and explore the key features that make this rigging setup stand out.

At its core, a cutter-rigged sailboat is defined by its multiple headsails and specific mast placement. Unlike traditional sloop-rigged sailboats with just one headsail (the jib), cutters carry two headsails – the jib on the forestay and a smaller staysail on an inner stay called the second forestay. This additional headsail provides enhanced maneuverability, especially in heavier wind conditions or when sailing close to the wind.

The positioning of these sails allows for better balance and control. The jib acts as the primary driving force while the smaller staysail helps fine-tune and adjust sail trim for optimal performance in varying wind speeds. This configuration gives sailors greater flexibility and control over their vessel, making it easier to adapt to changing weather conditions or maneuver through tight spaces like crowded harbors or narrow channels.

One major advantage of a cutter rig is its versatility in handling different points of sail . Whether you’re beating upwind, reaching across open waters, or running downwind with strong winds at your back, a well-designed cutter rig can excel in all these scenarios. The ability to set various combinations of sails enables sailors to maximize their boat’s aerodynamic efficiency regardless of which way the wind blows.

In addition to its superb adaptability on different points of sail , another standout feature of a cutter rig is its reliability in heavy weather conditions. With two separate headsails instead of relying solely on one large genoa like many sloop rigs, a cutter rig offers increased sail area options without sacrificing safety. By reefing down and using the smaller staysail as the primary driving force, sailors can maintain control even in strong winds, reducing the risk of overpowering the boat.

Moreover, the presence of two forestays not only reinforces mast stability but also opens up possibilities for adding additional headsails or storm sails if needed. This further enhances a cutter-rigged sailboat’s versatility and adaptability to different sailing conditions, offering peace of mind to sailors heading out into more challenging waters.

It’s important to keep in mind that while cutter rigs come with numerous advantages, they may require slightly more effort and skill to manage compared to simpler rigging setups. The need for multiple sheets and halyards means more lines cluttering the deck, potentially leading to increased complexity when setting up or adjusting sails . However, with practice and experience, managing a cutter rig becomes second nature.

In conclusion, exploring the key features of a cutter-rigged sailboat reveals a versatile and reliable sailing configuration that appeals to seasoned sailors seeking enhanced maneuverability and adaptability on various points of sail. With its unique combination of two headsails and specific mast placement, this rigging setup offers both performance and safety in a wide range of conditions. So if you’re considering upgrading your current sloop rig or looking for a new sailboat altogether, don’t overlook the allure of a well-designed cutter rig – it just might be the perfect choice for your next sailing adventure!

6) Expert Insights: How to Define and Identify a Cutter-Rigged Sailboat

Title: Expert Insights: Mastering the Art of Defining and Identifying Cutter-Rigged Sailboats

Introduction: Ahoy, sailing enthusiasts ! Welcome to another exciting installment of our Expert Insights series. Today, we embark on a voyage delving into the intricacies of defining and identifying cutter-rigged sailboats. Whether you are a seasoned sailor or an aspiring seafarer, this comprehensive guide will equip you with the knowledge necessary to navigate the dazzling world of cutter rigs. So hoist your sails, batten down the hatches, and let’s set course for enlightenment!

What is a Cutter-Rigged Sailboat? Imagine an elegant vessel gracefully slicing through the water; that’s a cutter-rigged sailboat in all its glory. A cutter rig is characterized by having multiple foresails—a mainsail located closest to the mast, supplemented by two foresails mounted ahead called the jib and staysail. This configuration differentiates it from sloop rigs, where only one headsail (the jib) embellishes the mast.

1) The Power Behind Cutter Rigs: The secret to their popularity lies in versatility and performance. Cutter-rigged sailboats excel at various points of sail due to their flexible sail plan. While close-hauled (sailing as close to wind direction as possible), you can harness immense power by using both foresails simultaneously—balancing speed and maneuverability.

2) Benefits Beyond Mighty Winds: Cutter rigs not only capture more wind but also distribute it efficiently across multiple sails—enabling enhanced control during gusty conditions. These additional foresails provide options when experiencing changes in weather or sea states while cruising offshore or navigating congested harbors.

3) Identify with Ease: Distinguishing a cutter rig at first glance may seem perplexing, especially if you’re new to sailing terminology . However, one crucial telltale sign is evident—the presence of two headsails. The jib, commonly the largest fore-and-aft sail, unfurls ahead of the mast while the staysail—often smaller—is typically set on a forestay between the bow and mast.

4) Rigging Setup: Cutter-rigged sailboats possess a unique rigging setup to accommodate multiple foresails harmoniously. In addition to the mainmast, they typically feature an inner forestay reaching from the masthead to a point near or on the deck. This inner stay provides support for setting and controlling the staysail separately from the larger jib.

5) Sail Controls & Tactics: Understanding how to effectively control your cutter rig is key to mastering its potential. Utilize various lines and winches to haul in or release each sail independently, allowing for precise adjustments depending on wind conditions. For optimal performance, consider employing windward sheeting angles, fine-tuning sail twist, and applying proper reefing techniques when necessary.

Conclusion: Congratulations! You’ve successfully navigated through our expert insights on defining and identifying cutter-rigged sailboats with finesse. Armed with this newfound knowledge, you can confidently embark on your next sailing adventure or engage in enthusiastic conversations with fellow sailors about their awe-inspiring rigs . Remember, cutter rigs offer a combination of power, versatility, and charm that captivates both spectators and seasoned mariners alike. Fair winds and smooth seas await as you join the ranks of those who harness the magic of these remarkable vessels!

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Guide to Understanding Sail Rig Types (with Pictures)

There are a lot of different sail rig types and it can be difficult to remember what's what. So I've come up with a system. Let me explain it in this article.

What are the different types of sail rig? The sail rig is determined by the number of masts and the layout and shape of sails. Most modern ships are fore-and-aft rigged, while old ships are square-rigged. Rigs with one mast are sloops and cutters. Ketches, yawls, brigs, and schooners have two masts. Barques have three masts. Rigs can contain up to seven masts.

'Yeah, that's a gaff brig, and that a Bermuda cutter' - If you don't know what this means (neither did I) and want to know what to call a two-masted ship with a square-rigged mainsail, this article is definitely for you.

On this page:

More info on sail rig types, mast configurations and rig types, rigs with one mast, rigs with two masts, rigs with three masts, related questions.

This article is part 2 of my series on sails and rig types. Part 1 is all about the different types of sails. If you want to know everything there is to know about sails once and for all, I really recommend you read it. It gives a good overview of sail types and is easy to understand.

The Ultimate Guide to Sail Types and Rigs (with Pictures)

First of all, what is a sail rig? A sail rig is the way in which the sails are attached to the mast(s). In other words, it's the setup or configuration of the sailboat. The rig consists of the sail and mast hardware. The sail rig and sail type are both part of the sail plan. We usually use the sail rig type to refer to the type of boat.

Let's start by taking a look at the most commonly used modern sail rigs. Don't worry if you don't exactly understand what's going on. At the end of this article, you'll understand everything about rig types.

The sail rig and sail plan are often used interchangeably. When we talk of the sail rig we usually mean the sail plan . Although they are not quite the same. A sail plan is the set of drawings by the naval architect that shows the different combinations of sails and how they are set up for different weather conditions. For example a light air sail plan, storm sail plan, and the working sail plan (which is used most of the time).

So let's take a look at the three things that make up the sail plan.

The 3 things that make up the sail plan

I want to do a quick recap of my previous article. A sail plan is made up of:

• Mast configuration - refers to the number of masts and where they are placed
• Sail type - refers to the sail shape and functionality
• Rig type - refers to the way these sails are set up on your boat

I'll explore the most common rig types in detail later in this post. I've also added pictures to learn to recognize them more easily. ( Click here to skip to the section with pictures ).

How to recognize the sail plan?

So how do you know what kind of boat you're dealing with? If you want to determine what the rig type of a boat is, you need to look at these three things:

• Check the number of masts, and how they are set up.
• You look at the type of sails used (the shape of the sails, how many there are, and what functionality they have).
• And you have to determine the rig type, which means the way the sails are set up.

Below I'll explain each of these factors in more detail.

The most common rig types on sailboats

To give you an idea of the most-used sail rigs, I'll quickly summarize some sail plans below and mention the three things that make up their sail plan.

• Bermuda sloop - one mast, one mainsail, one headsail, fore-and-aft rigged
• Gaff cutter - one mast, one mainsail, two staysails, fore-and-aft rigged
• Gaff schooner - two-masted (foremast), two mainsails, staysails, fore-and-aft rigged
• Gaff ketch - two-masted (mizzen), two mainsails, staysails, fore-and-aft rigged
• Full-rigged ship or tall ship - three or more masts, mainsail on each mast, staysails, square-rigged

The first word is the shape and rigging of the mainsail. So this is the way the sail is attached to the mast. I'll go into this later on. The second word refers to the mast setup and amount of sails used.

Most sailboats are Bermuda sloops. Gaff-rigged sails are mostly found on older, classic boats. Square-rigged sails are generally not used anymore.

But first I want to discuss the three factors that make up the sail plan in more detail.

Ways to rig sails

There are basically two ways to rig sails:

• From side to side, called Square-rigged sails - the classic pirate sails
• From front to back, called Fore-and-aft rigged sails - the modern sail rig

Almost all boats are fore-and-aft rigged nowadays.

Square sails are good for running downwind, but they're pretty useless when you're on an upwind tack. These sails were used on Viking longships, for example. Their boats were quicker downwind than the boats with fore-and-aft rigged sails, but they didn't handle as well.

The Arabs first used fore-and-aft rigged sails, making them quicker in difficult wind conditions.

Quick recap from part 1: the reason most boats are fore-and-aft rigged today is the increased maneuverability of this configuration. A square-rigged ship is only good for downwind runs, but a fore-and-aft rigged ship can sail close to the wind, using the lift to move forward.

The way the sails are attached to the mast determines the shape of the sail. The square-rigged sails are always attached the same way to the mast. The fore-and-aft rig, however, has a lot of variations.

The three main sail rigs are:

• Bermuda rig - most used - has a three-sided (triangular) mainsail
• Gaff rig - has a four-sided mainsail, the head of the mainsail is guided by a gaff
• Lateen rig - has a three-sided (triangular) mainsail on a long yard

The Bermuda is the most used, the gaff is a bit old-fashioned, and the lateen rig is outdated (about a thousand years). Lateen rigs were used by the Moors. The Bermuda rig is actually based on the Lateen rig (the Dutch got inspired by the Moors).

Other rig types that are not very common anymore are:

• Junk rig - has horizontal battens to control the sail
• Settee rig - Lateen with the front corner cut off
• Crabclaw rig

Mast configuration

Okay, we know the shape of the mainsail. Now it's time to take a look at the mast configuration. The first thing is the number of masts:

• one-masted boats
• two-masted boats
• three-masted boats
• four masts or up
• full or ship-rigged boats - also called 'ships' or 'tall ships'

I've briefly mentioned the one and two mast configurations in part 1 of this article. In this part, I'll also go over the three-masted configurations, and the tall ships as well.

A boat with one mast has a straightforward configuration because there's just one mast. You can choose to carry more sails or less, but that's about it.

A boat with two masts or more gets interesting. When you add a mast, it means you have to decide where to put the extra mast: in front, or in back of the mainmast. You can also choose whether or not the extra mast will carry an extra mainsail. The placement and size of the extra mast are important in determining what kind of boat we're dealing with. So you start by locating the largest mast, which is always the mainmast.

From front to back: the first mast is called the foremast. The middle mast is called the mainmast. And the rear mast is called the mizzenmast.

What is the mizzenmast? The mizzenmast is the aft-most (rear) mast on a sailboat with three or more masts or the mast behind the mainmast on a boat with two masts. The mizzenmast carries the mizzen sail. On a two-masted boat, the mizzenmast is always (slightly) smaller than the mainmast. What is the purpose of the mizzen sail? The mizzen sail provides more sail area and flexibility in sail plan. It can be used as a big wind rudder, helping the sailor to have more control over the stern of the ship. It pushes the stern away from the wind and forces the bow in the opposite way. This may help to bring the bow into the wind when at anchor.

I always look at the number of masts first, because this is the easiest to spot. So to make this stuff more easy to understand, I've divided up the rig types based on the number of masts below.

Why would you want more masts and sail anyways?

Good question. The biggest advantage of two masts compared to one (let's say a ketch compared to a sloop), is that it allows you to use multiple smaller sails to get the same sail area. It also allows for shorter masts.

This means you reduce the stress on the rigging and the masts, which makes the ketch rig safer and less prone to wear and tear. It also doesn't capsize as quickly. So there are a couple of real advantages of a ketch rig over a sloop rig.

In the case of one mast, we look at the number of sails it carries.

Boats with one mast can have either one sail, two sails, or three or more sails.

Most single-masted boats are sloops, which means one mast with two sails (mainsail + headsail). The extra sail increases maneuverability. The mainsail gives you control over the stern, while the headsail gives you control over the bow.

Sailor tip: you steer a boat using its sails, not using its rudder.

The one-masted rigs are:

• Cat - one mast, one sail
• Sloop - one mast, two sails
• Cutter - one mast, three or more sails

The cat is the simplest sail plan and has one mast with one sail. It's easy to handle alone, so it's very popular as a fishing boat. Most (very) small sailboats are catboats, like the Sunfish, and many Laser varieties. But it has a limited sail area and doesn't give you the control and options you have with more sails.

The most common sail plan is the sloop. It has one mast and two sails: the main and headsail. Most sloops have a Bermuda mainsail. It's one of the best racing rigs because it's able to sail very close to the wind (also called 'weatherly'). It's one of the fastest rig types for upwind sailing.

It's a simple sail plan that allows for high performance, and you can sail it short-handed. That's why most sailboats you see today are (Bermuda) sloops.

This rig is also called the Marconi rig, and it was developed by a Dutch Bermudian (or a Bermudian Dutchman) - someone from Holland who lived on Bermuda.

A cutter has three or more sails. Usually, the sail plan looks a lot like the sloop, but it has three headsails instead of one. Naval cutters can carry up to 6 sails.

Cutters have larger sail area, so they are better in light air. The partition of the sail area into more smaller sails give you more control in heavier winds as well. Cutters are considered better for bluewater sailing than sloops (although sloops will do fine also). But the additional sails just give you a bit more to play with.

Two-masted boats can have an extra mast in front or behind the mainmast. If the extra mast is behind (aft of) the mainmast, it's called a mizzenmast . If it's in front of the mainmast, it's called a foremast .

If you look at a boat with two masts and it has a foremast, it's most likely either a schooner or a brig. It's easy to recognize a foremast: the foremast is smaller than the aft mast.

If the aft mast is smaller than the front mast, it is a sail plan with a mizzenmast. That means the extra mast has been placed at the back of the boat. In this case, the front mast isn't the foremast, but the mainmast. Boats with two masts that have a mizzenmast are most likely a yawl or ketch.

The two-masted rigs are:

• Lugger - two masts (mizzen), with lugsail (a cross between gaff rig and lateen rig) on both masts
• Yawl - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast is much taller than mizzen. Mizzen without a mainsail.
• Ketch - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast with only slightly smaller mizzen. Mizzen has mainsail.
• Schooner - two masts (foremast), generally gaff rig on both masts. Main mast with only slightly smaller foremast. Sometimes build with three masts, up to seven in the age of sail.
• Bilander - two masts (foremast). Has a lateen-rigged mainsail and square-rigged sails on the foremast and topsails.
• Brig - two masts (foremast), partially square-rigged. The main mast carries small lateen-rigged sail.

The yawl has two masts that are fore-and-aft rigged and a mizzenmast. The mizzenmast is much shorter than the mainmast, and it doesn't carry a mainsail. The mizzenmast is located aft of the rudder and is mainly used to increase helm balance.

A ketch has two masts that are fore-and-aft rigged. The extra mast is a mizzenmast. It's nearly as tall as the mainmast and carries a mainsail. Usually, the mainsails of the ketch are gaff-rigged, but there are Bermuda-rigged ketches too. The mizzenmast is located in front of the rudder instead of aft, as on the yawl.

The function of the ketch's mizzen sail is different from that of the yawl. It's actually used to drive the boat forward, and the mizzen sail, together with the headsail, are sufficient to sail the ketch. The mizzen sail on a yawl can't really drive the boat forward.

Schooners have two masts that are fore-and-aft rigged. The extra mast is a foremast which is generally smaller than the mainmast, but it does carry a mainsail. Schooners are also built with a lot more masts, up to seven (not anymore). The schooner's mainsails are generally gaff-rigged.

The schooner is easy to sail but not very fast. It handles easier than a sloop, except for upwind, and it's only because of better technology that sloops are now more popular than the schooner.

The brig has two masts. The foremast is always square-rigged. The mainmast can be square-rigged or is partially square-rigged. Some brigs carry a lateen mainsail on the mainmast, with square-rigged topsails.

Some variations on the brig are:

Brigantine - two masts (foremast), partially square-rigged. Mainmast carries no square-rigged mainsail.

Hermaphrodite brig - also called half brig or schooner brig. Has two masts (foremast), partially square-rigged. Mainmast carries a gaff rig mainsail and topsail, making it half schooner.

Three-masted boats are mostly barques or schooners. Sometimes sail plans with two masts are used with more masts.

The three-masted rigs are:

• Barque - three masts, fore, and mainmast are square-rigged, the mizzenmast is usually gaff-rigged. All masts carry mainsail.
• Barquentine - three masts, foremast is square-rigged, the main and mizzenmast are fore-and-aft rigged. Also called the schooner barque.
• Polacca - three masts, foremast is square-rigged, the main and mizzenmast are lateen-rigged.
• Xebec - three masts, all masts are lateen-rigged.

A barque has three or four masts. The fore and mainmast are square-rigged, and the mizzen fore-and-aft, usually gaff-rigged. Carries a mainsail on each mast, but the mainsail shape differs per mast (square or gaff). Barques were built with up to five masts. Four-masted barques were quite common.

Barques were a good alternative to full-rigged ships because they require a lot fewer sailors. But they were also slower. Very popular rig for ocean crossings, so a great rig for merchants who travel long distances and don't want 30 - 50 sailors to run their ship.

Barquentine

The barquentine usually has three masts. The foremast is square-rigged and the main and mizzenmast fore-and-aft. The rear masts are usually gaff-rigged.

Faster than a barque or a schooner, but the performance is worse than both.

The polacca or polacre rig has three masts with a square-rigged foremast. The main and mizzenmast are lateen-rigged. Beautiful boat to see. Polacca literally means 'Polish' (it's Italian). It was a popular rig type in the Mediterranean in the 17th century. It looks like the xebec, which has three lateen-rigged masts.

Fun fact: polaccas were used by a Dutch sailor-turned-Turkish-pirate (called Murat Reis).

The xebec is a Mediterranean trading ship with three masts. All masts are lateen-rigged. I couldn't find any surviving xebecs, only models and paintings. So I guess this rig is outdated a long time.

A boat with three or more masts that all carry square-rigged sails is called a ship, a tall ship, or a full-rigged ship. So it's at this point that we start calling boats 'ships'. It has nothing to do with size but with the type of rigging.

More sails mean less stress on all of them. These ships use a lot of sails to distribute the forces, which reduces the stress on the rigging and the masts. Square sails mean double the sail area in comparison to triangular sails.

They are quite fast for their size, and they could outrun most sloops and schooners (schooners were relatively a lot heavier). The reason is that tall ships could be a lot longer than sloops, giving them a lot of extra hull speed. Sloops couldn't be as large because there weren't strong enough materials available. Try making a single triangular sail with a sail area of over 500 sq. ft. from linen.

So a lot of smaller sails made sense. You could have a large ship with a good maximum hull speed, without your sails ripping apart with every gust of wind.

But you need A LOT of sailors to sail a tall ship: about 30 sailors in total to ie. reef down sails and operate the ship. That's really a lot.

Tall ships are used nowadays for racing, with the popular tall ship races traveling the world. Every four years I go and check them out when they are at Harlingen (which is very close to where I live).

Check out the amazing ships in this video of the tall ship races last year near my hometown. (The event was organized by friends of mine).

What is the difference between a schooner and a sloop? A schooner has two masts, whereas the sloop only has one. The schooner carries more sails, with a mainsail on both masts. Also, sloops are usually Bermuda-rigged, whereas schooners are usually gaff-rigged. Most schooners also carry one or two additional headsails, in contrast to the single jib of the sloop.

What do you call a two-masted sailboat? A two-masted sailboat is most likely a yawl, ketch, schooner, or brig. To determine which one it is you have to locate the mainmast (the tallest). At the rear: schooner or brig. In front: yawl or ketch. Brigs have a square-rigged foremast, schooners don't. Ketches carry a mainsail on the rear mast; yawls don't.

What is a sloop rig? A sloop rig is a sailboat with one mast and two sails: a mainsail and headsail. It's a simple sail plan that handles well and offers good upwind performance. The sloop rig can be sailed shorthanded and is able to sail very close to the wind, making it very popular. Most recreational sailboats use a sloop rig.

What is the difference between a ketch and a yawl? The most important difference between a ketch and a yawl are the position and height of the mizzenmast. The mizzenmast on a yawl is located aft of the rudder, is shorter than the mainmast and doesn't carry a mainsail. On a ketch, it's nearly as long as the mainmast and carries a mainsail.

There are a wonderful lots of DIY changeability shows on the cable airwaves these days.

Rick the rigger

There are SO many errors on this site it really should be taken down.

First major mistake is to say you are no longer afraid of the sea.

One that truly gets up my nose is the term ‘fully’ rigged ship. It’s a FULL rigged ship!! Your mast names are the wrong way round and just because there may be 3 it doesn’t automatically mean the one in the middle is the main.

I could go on and totally destroy your over inflated but fragile ego but I won’t. All I will say is go learn a lot more before posting.

Shawn Buckles

Thanks for your feedback. If you like to point out anything more specific, please let me know and I will update the articles. I’ve changed fully-rigged to full-rigged ship - which is a typo on my part. I try to be as concise as I can, but, obviously, we all make mistakes every now and then. The great thing about the internet is that we can learn from each other and update our knowledge together.

If you want to write yourself and share your knowledge, please consider applying as a writer for my blog by clicking on the top banner.

Thanks, Shawn

Well, I feel that I’ve learned a bit from this. The information is clear and well laid out. Is it accurate? I can’t see anything at odds with the little I knew before, except that I understood a xebec has a square rigged centre mainmast, such as the Pelican ( https://www.adventureundersail.com/ )

Hi, Shawn, You forgot (failed) to mention another type of rig? The oldest type of rig known and still functions today JUNK RIG!

Why are so many of the comments here negative. I think it is wonderful to share knowledge and learn together. I knew a little about the subject (I’m an Aubrey-Maturin fan!) but still found this clarified some things for me. I can’t comment therefore on the accuracy of the article, but it seems clear to me that the spirit of the author is positive. We owe you some more bonhomme I suggest Shawn.

As they say in the Navy: “BZ” - for a good article.

Been reading S.M. Stirling and wanted to understand the ship types he references. Thank you, very helpful.

This site is an awesome starting point for anyone who would like to get an overview of the subject. I am gratefull to Shawn for sharing - Thanks & Kudos to you! If the negative reviewers want to get a deeper technical knowledge that is accurate to the n-th then go study the appropriate material. Contribute rather than destroy another’s good work. Well done Shawn. Great job!

Good stuff Shawn - very helpful. As a novice, it’s too confusing to figure out in bits and pieces. Thanks for laying it out.

First of all I have to say that Rick ‘the rigger’ is obviously the one with the “over inflated but fragile ego” and I laughed when you suggested he share his knowledge on your blog, well played!

As for the content it’s great, hope to read more soon!

Alec Lowenthal

Shawn, I have a painting of a Spanish vessel, two masted, with. Lateen sails on both masts and a jib. The mainsail is ahead of the main mast (fore) and the other is aft of the mizzen mast. Would this be what you call lugger rig? I have not seen a similar picture. Thanks, Alec.

Thank you for your article I found easy to read and understand, and more importantly remember, which emphasises the well written.. Pity about the negative comments, but love your proactive responses!

This vessel, “SEBASTIAN” out of Garrucha, Almería, España, was painted by Gustave Gillman in 1899.

Sorry, picture not accepted!

Thank you for a very informative article. I sail a bit and am always looking for more knowledge. I like the way you put forth your info and I feel if you can’t say anything positive, then that person should have their own blog or keep their opinions to their-self. I will be looking for more from you. I salute your way of dealing with negative comments.

Thank you for a great intro to sailing boats! I searched different sailboats because I use old sails tp make bags and wanted to learn the difference. Way more than I ever expected. Thanks for all the work put in to teach the rest of us.

Your description of a cutter is lacking, and your illustrations of “cutters” are actually cutter-rigged sloops. On a true cutter, the mast is moved further aft (with more than 40% of the ship forward of the mast). A sloop uses tension in the backstay to tension the luff of the foresail. The cutter can’t do this.

Also, a bermuda-rigged ketch will have a line running from the top of the mainmast to the top of the mizzenmast.

wow great guide to rig types! thanks

Interesting guide, however I am confused about the description of the brig. You say the main mast on a brig can have a lateen sail, but in your picture it looks like a gaff sail to me. How is it a lateen sail?

Hi Shawn, thank you for taking the time to share this information. It is clear and very helpful. I am new to sailing and thinking of buying my own blue water yacht. The information you have supplied is very useful. I still am seeking more information on performance and safety. Please keep up the good work. Best Regards

mickey fanelli

I’m starting to repair a model sailboat used in the lake I have three masts that have long been broken off and the sails need replacement. So my question is there a special relationship between the three masts I do have reminents of where the masts should go. they all broke off the boat along with the sails I can figure out where they go because of the old glue marks but it makes no sense. or does it really matter on a model thank you mickey

Cool, total novice here. I have learnt a lot. Thanks for sharing - the diagrams along with the text make it really easy to understand, especially for a beginner who hasn’t even stepped on a sailing boat.

Daryl Beatt

Thank you. Cleared up quite a few things for me. For example, I was familiar with the names “Xebecs” and “Polaccas” from recent reading about the Barbary War. I had gathered that the two Barbary types were better suited to sailing in the Med, but perhaps they were less able to be adaptable to military uses,(but one might assume that would be ok if one plans to board and fight, as opposed to fight a running gun duel). Specifically, the strangely one sided August 1, 1801 battle between the USS Enterprise under Lt. John Sterett and the Polacca cruiser Tripoli under Admiral Rais Mahomet Rous. On paper both ships seemed nearly equal in size, guns and crew, but pictures of the battle are confusing. While the Enterprise is usually rendered as the familiar schooner, the polacca Tripoli has been pictured in radically different ways. Thus the Wikipedia picture by Hoff in 1878 used to illustrate the Battle shows a Brig design for Tripoli, indicating 77 years later, polaccas were no longer common.

Lee Christiansen

I am curious as to what you would call a modern race boat with a fractional jib,not equipped for full masthead hoist? Thanks Lee

Thanks Guy: The information and pictures really eliminate a lot of the mystery of the terminology and the meanings. Also appreciate the insight of the handling idiosyncrasies “hand” (staff) requirements to manage a vessel for one that has not been on the water much. I long to spend significant time afloat, but have concern about the ability to handle a vessel due to advancing age. The Significant Other prefers to sit (in AC comfort)and be entertained by parties of cruise line employees. Thanks again for the information.

Gordon Smith

Your discussion made no mention of the galleon, a vessel with either square-rigged Fore and Main masts and a shorter lateen-rigged Mizzen, or, on larger galleons, square-rigged Fore and Main masts, with a lateen-rigged Mizzen and a lateen-rigged Bonaventure mast, both shorter than either the Fore or Main masts. Also, it was not uncommon for a galleon to hoist a square-rigged bowsprit topsail in addition to the usual square-rigged spritsail.

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How to Sail a Cutter Rigged Sailboat

Instructions

Learn about the differences between a cutter rig sailboat’s foresails. Each sail forward on the mast of your boat is meant to serve a unique purpose, depending on prevailing weather conditions. The headsail on the outermost part of a cutter hangs on the jibstay and is thus called the jib or at times ‘yankee’. On the other hand, the headsail on the innermost part hangs on the forestay and is referred to as the staysail. In terms of size, the jib comprehensively dominates the staysail.

A cutter should be tacked just like a sloop. After all, a cutter is a sloop with more than one headsail. Tend to the jib in order to tack a cutter. If you are sailing on a modern cutter, chances are that it would have self-tending staysails which have the ability to act like the mainsail while the boat is being tacked. Instruct a crew member to attend to the jib and keep an eye on the staysail yourself while you are tacking the cutter.

For making the cutter more versatile in rapidly changing weather conditions, multiple headsail configurations should be used. Consider sailing on the jib and dropping the staysail if a strong wind picks up.

The best way to avoid turbulence that is often caused when the staysail tends to create a layering effect on deep reaches, robbing the jib of wind as a result, is to take the staysail out of the downwind. It is best not to sail on a deep reach or downwind on a cutter. However, if there is no alternative, be sure to drop the staysail and keep the boat wing-on-wing with the jib. If you are one of those sailors who do not prefer dropping the staysail, it would be wise to let the staysail luff into the mainsail’s lee.

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The engraving represents a cutter yacht in a strong breeze, with her top-mast housed, and main-tack triced up. No form of rig is so much in favour among English yachtsmen, and for small vessels generally, as the cutter rig; and none is better known and admired. Cutter yachts are more numerous, and have achieved more victories in sailing matches, than any other class of vessels in the world ; they are also employed by the English Government in the revenue service, as the most useful and convenient rig for the navigation of the English Channel, where short seas and broken waters prevail; and as the swiftest kind of vessel for chasing smugglers, and preventing the landing of contraband goods. The cutter may, therefore, be considered as possessing many and great advantages for fast sailing. The rig comprises four sails—mainsail, fore-sail, jib, and gaff-topsail. The mainsail is spread by means of a gaff and boom; the outer end of the latter generally extends some little way over the stern; the fore-leech of the fore-sail is attached to the fore-stay by means of brass thimbles or a lacing of ratline ; the jib is run out upon the bowsprit. Cutters carry a long bowsprit, which is fitted so that it can be reefed or taken in entirely, or according to the size of the jib that is used.

The cutter rig is suitable for boats of any size, and for small vessels up to sixty or eighty tons ; beyond that size the schooner rig is preferred, as being lighter, and one that can be more safely handled in a sea-way. The boom and other spars required for a larger cutter being found very heavy, and sometimes dangerous and difficult to reef and manage in strong winds and heavy seas.

There are, however, among the pleasure squadron, a few cutter yachts up to, and even above, one hundred tons. But when at sea in bad weather they usually unship their heavy boom and gaff, and use a trysail or smaller sail in the place of the large mainsail.

The following may be relied on as suitable dimensions for a cutter-rigged sailing boat, half-decked or provided with one-foot water-ways inside the gunwale on both sides of the boat.

Dimensions of Boat. Length over all 20 ft.

Lengthofkeel 17 „

Length of Spars. Mast 19 feet 6 inches

Dimensions of Sails.

Mainsail luff 12 ft. 0 in. „ aft leech 17 „ 0 „ „ head 8 ,, 8 „ foot 14 „ 0 „

Continue reading here: Sailing A Schooner Rig

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CRUISING SAILBOAT RIGS: Sloops, Cutters, and Solent Rigs

In our previous episode in this series we discussed what I like to call split rigs–ketches, yawls, and schooners–where a sailplan is divided among two or more masts. Cruising sailors once upon a time preferred such rigs, at least on larger cruising boats, because each separate sail requiring handling was smaller and thus more manageable. These days, however, by far the most popular rig for both racing and cruising sailboats is the simple sloop rig. This has a single mast supporting a single Marconi mainsail with a single headsail supported by a single headstay flying forward of it.

Its advantages are manifest: there are only two sails for the crew to handle, each of which can be hoisted with a single halyard and trimmed with a single sheet. While sailing, there are normally only two lines–the jib sheet and mainsheet–that need to be controlled at any given moment. And because there is but one headsail flying forward of the main, tacking a sloop is easy, since the headsail, even if it is a large overlapping genoa, can pass easily through the open foretriangle.

Sloop rigs are highly efficient to windward, thanks to the so-called “slot effect” created by the interaction of the mainsail and headsail. How this actually works is a matter of some debate. The traditional theory is that airflow in the narrow slot between the sails is accelerated, which decreases air pressure on the leeward side of the mainsail, thus increasing the lift the sail generates.

The revisionist theory is that air deflected from the headsail actually works to decrease airflow in the slot, increasing pressure on the windward side of the headsail, thus increasing the lift it generates. Since increasing the lift generated by one sail seems to necessarily decrease that generated by the other, others believe a single Marconi sail must be just as aerodynamic, if not more so, than two sails. This last proposition, however, is contradicted by real-world experience, as no one has yet created a single-sail rig that is as fast and closewinded as a double-sail sloop rig.

The almighty slot in action. Its effects are salubrious, but no one can really explain why

The primary disadvantage of a sloop rig is that the sails must be relatively large. They are therefore harder to handle in that they are heavier (making them harder to hoist) and generate larger loads when flying. Much of this difficulty, however, is obviated by modern winches and roller-furling gear, which is why sloop rigs are now so popular, and deservedly so. In light to moderate sailing conditions, which is what most sailors normally encounter, a sloop is by far the fastest, most easily handled rig currently available.

In heavier conditions sloops do present some challenges. To reduce sail area forward of the mast, if the headsail is hanked on to the headstay, which was the traditional practice, you must change the sail for a smaller one. This requires crew to work for extended periods on the bow of the boat, where conditions can get wild and wet. If the headsail is on a modern roller-furler, the sail can be easily roller-reefed from the cockpit, but past a certain point a roller-reefed headsail’s shape becomes inefficient. You either must live with this or unroll the sail and change it for another smaller one. The stronger the wind gets, the more distorted the roller-reefed sail becomes, and the more important it is to change it. Changing a sail on a furler in a strong wind, however, is an awful chore. The very first thing you must do (unroll the sail) greatly increases sail area right when you most want to decrease it. Then you must somehow control a large headsail as it comes off a furling rod with its luff unrestrained in strong wind.

Coastal cruisers are never likely to sail in strong conditions for very long. On the few brief occasions their boats are pressed hard they are normally willing to limp along on an ugly scrap of roller-reefed genoa. They are also more likely to have to short-tack their boats in confined areas, thus the ease of tacking a sloop makes it the rig of choice on coastal boats. Bluewater cruisers, on the other hand, may sail in strong weather for days on end, so there are advantages to cutting up the sail area in the foretriangle into smaller more manageable pieces. Bluewater cruisers traditionally therefore often prefer a cutter rig, which has a single mast and a headstay like a sloop, but also an inner forestay behind the headstay from which a smaller intermediate staysail can be flown.

Modern cutter-rigged cruiser sailing under a staysail and a reefed mainsail

The big advantage of a cutter rig is that in a big blow the jib on the headstay can come right off (or be rolled up) and the smaller staysail can carry on alone, more inboard and lower in the rig, where it balances better against the reduced area of a deeply reefed mainsail. Cutters are also efficient to windward, though some claim they are not as efficient as sloops. Personally, I’ve found cutters are sometimes actually more closewinded than sloops, at least in moderate to strong winds, as the sheeting angles on a pair of smaller, flatter headsails can be narrower than the angle on one larger, more full-bodied sail. In very heavy conditions, with just a staysail and reefed mainsail deployed, I believe a cutter is almost always more efficient to windward than a sloop.

On anything from a beam reach to a tight closehauled angle, a cutter can also fly both its headsails unobstructed. Sailing on a broad reach, however, the staysail blocks air from reaching the jib, reducing the rig’s effective sail area just when the decrease in apparent wind speed caused by the wind blowing from behind the boat demands that sail area instead be increased. Another problem is that a cutter requires extra standing rigging–not only the inner forestay, but also, very often, either an extra set of swept-back aft shrouds or a pair of running backstays to help support the inner forestay from behind. This adds complexity and increases rig weight well above the deck.

The biggest disadvantage of a cutter rig is that there are two headsails to tack (or jibe) across the boat instead of just one. There is an extra set of sheets to handle, plus the jib quarrels with the inner forestay every time it comes across the foretriangle. This is less of a problem if the jib is small and high-cut (these are called yankee jibs) so that it slips more easily through the narrow gap between the inner forestay and headstay. When flying a large genoa, however, crew must often go forward to help horse the sail around the inner forestay. If you don’t have enough crew for this, you may have to roll up part of the genoa (assuming it’s on a roller-furler) before tacking or jibing and unroll it again afterward, which is a bother. Also, if the wind grows strong again, but not so strong that you can sail on the staysail alone, you either have to change your genoa for a smaller sail or roller-reef it into an inefficient shape, which is (theoretically) precisely the conundrum that drove you to favor a cutter rig in the first place.

On a true cutter specifically designed to accommodate a staysail, the mast is usually farther aft than it would be on a sloop and/or there is a bowsprit to enlarge the foretriangle. This allows for a larger, more useful staysail and should enlarge the gap between the headstay and inner forestay so a jib can tack through more easily. A larger foretriangle also allows the jib to be larger without overlapping the mainsail, but a big overlapping genoa will still present problems when tacking or jibing.

A “true” cutter under sail. With the mast aft the foretriangle is bigger, which allows for a bigger, more useful staysail. As on this boat, a true cutter often flies a high-cut yankee jib forward of the staysail

The staysail can also be made club-footed with its own boom. Such a spar, known as a jib-boom, can be controlled by a single sheet that need not be adjusted when tacking. When short-tacking in enough breeze for the boat to sail under main and staysail alone this is the height of convenience. You can shift the helm back and forth without ever touching a line. A jib-boom, however, unless sheeted tight, will flail about the foredeck whenever its sail is luffing while being hoisted, doused, or reefed. It may harm crew on the foredeck during an accidental jibe, as it can sweep suddenly across the boat with some force unless restrained by a preventer.

A cutter-rigged cruiser with a club-footed staysail

Bear in mind, too, that enlarging the foretriangle, particularly on a boat without a bowsprit, usually means mainsail area must be reduced commensurately. In many cases the mainsail is then too small and/or too far aft for the boat to sail and maneuver under main alone. When attempting to dock, anchor, or moor under sail this can be a significant disadvantage. (Note, however, that many sloops are also often unable to maneuver under mainsail alone.)

One variation increasingly popular with bluewater cruisers is a sloop/cutter hybrid, sometimes called a slutter rig, where a removeable inner forestay is installed on what would otherwise be a straight sloop rig. The removable stay normally has some sort of quick-release mechanism at deck level that makes it easy to set up and tension the stay and to loosen and remove it. When stowed, the removeable stay is brought aft to the mast and secured.

Example of an inner forestay with a retro-fitted inner forestay with a quick-release fitting that allows the stay to be moved out of the way when desired

To a large extent, the slutter rig does offer the best of both worlds. In light to moderate winds you can stow the inner forestay and sail the boat as a straight sloop with one large genoa passing through an open foretriangle. In heavy conditions, you can set up the inner forestay, hank on a staysail, roll up or douse the large genoa, and sail the boat under main and staysail alone. Since setting up an inner forestay and hanking on a staysail is normally less taxing than stripping a large genoa off a furling rod and hoisting a smaller working jib and/or storm sail in its place, this is a viable practice.

Sometimes you see true cutters that have been converted to slutters. Here the foretriangle is normally large enough to fly two headsails simultaneously if desired, which is often not possible on a converted sloop. The downside to this arrangement is that making the inner forestay removable makes it impossible to install either a roller-furling staysail (currently a popular arrangement on cutter rigs) or a club-footed staysail.

Another variation that has appeared more recently is the so-called solent rig, where a solent stay is installed directly behind a boat’s headstay. The headstay carries a big genoa (usually on a roller-furler) that is flown in light to moderate wind, and the solent stay carries what is effectively a smaller working jib (or a “blade jib,” as some like to call them now) to fly in stronger conditions. The solent jib (which is normally larger than a staysail) can be rigged permanently on its own roller-furler, or it can be on a removable stay, as is seen on slutters and some cutter rigs.

The huge problem with a permanent solent rig is that the genoa forward on the headstay is normally so close to the solent stay that it cannot be pulled through the gap between the stays, but must be entirely rolled up and unfurled again every time the boat is tacked. In some cases the solent stay actually isn’t terribly close to the headstay, but still the top of the stay is always very close to the top of the headstay and tacking is thus always problematic. For this reason, personally, I strongly favor removable solent stays.

Typical solent rig with the two stays quite close together

On this example, the two stays are farther apart, until you get up to the masthead

One recent innovation that has made the handling of removable sails much easier are sails with torque-rope luffs that are mounted on continuous-line furlers. These were developed first on shorthanded ocean-racing boats, but are now leaking on to cruising boats with increasing frequency. For these to work the sail must usually be a lighter laminated sail rather than straight Dacron. A length of high-modulus rope especially designed to resist twisting, a torque rope so called, is sewn into the luff of the sail, which is then mounted on a removable lightweight continuous-line furling drum. Once the sail is hoisted with its torque rope tensioned it can be furled up on its own luff. It can also be taken down and stowed in a bag this way, all rolled up on itself. And it can be hoisted again while still rolled up. Handling the sail is thus very easy, as the only time it is unrolled and flying free is when you are actually flying it.

The great flexibility of a torque-rope sail actually gives you two different options if you are trying to create a solent rig. The smaller solent sail can be made a removable torque-rope sail, in which case you will be setting and flying it inside the headstay. Or you can keep a small working jib on your headstay and set up a larger removable genoa-size torque-rope sail forward of it. Sails like this have all sorts of names–Code Zero sails, screechers, gennakers, etc. The most important thing, if you are ordering one, is not what you call it, but rather that it is cut flat enough to sail efficiently to windward. Also, when flying such a sail you’ll need some sort of bowsprit forward of your headstay to carry it, and the sprit must be strong enough to carry the rig’s full headstay load when the sail flying.

The headsail arrangement on my cutter-rigged boat Lunacy . A triple-headsail sloop you might call it. The headstay and the inner forestay are permanently rigged. The screecher, as I call it, flies on its own luff forward of the headstay and is controlled with a removable continuous-line furler. The bowsprit and the plate under it were added to carry the big load the sail generates. When the screecher is flying the headstay goes slack and the screecher’s torque rope is what’s holding up the front of the mast

An IMOCA Open 60 flying a staysail on a continuous-line furler

A continuous-line furler up close and personal, removed from the rig with sail furled

Yet another option is to make the staysail in a cutter rig a removable torque-rope sail. I have seen these on shorthanded racing boats, but never on a cruising boat. I wonder sometimes if I should try it on my boat. If anyone has tried it on their boat, I do wish they would get in touch!

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NORTHBOUND LUNACY: Atlantic City, NJ, to Portland, ME

My last two boats–a Bristol 39 and a Warwick 47–have been sloops with inner forestays. The present Warwick has a r/f forstaysail so it’/s more or less permanent. This is a great heavy weather and offshore rig–perfect for the ocean and he Caribbean, the Med not so much. The forestayail is pretty small so it takes a considerable blow to make it the right choice.

Go easy on the torque rope idea unless a) the mast is beefed up for it b) the winches, lead blocks and the deck under the winch base on which the halyard lays are beefed up. You need to plan on having a halyard lock for the top of the torque rope AND a robust purchase to load the bottom end. THIS is how the race boats are set up Coop

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How do you tack a cutter?

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The cutter rig is often praised for its versatility and ease of management by short-handed crew because of its divided sailplan. But how does one bring a cutter across the wind? A photo I saw showed the headsail sheets run around the front of the inner stay. Is it just like tacking a sloop, with two sheet adjustments (I assume the inner sail is trimmed first on the new tack)? If so, wouldn''t the headsail be subject to a lot of wear dragging across the inner forestay? Or is the headsail partially furled prior to tacking (this seems cumbersome, and cutters tacked before the advent of roller furling, so this can''t be the most seaman-like maneuver)? What percentage of the foretriangle is a typical cutter headsail? I''m assuming genoas are out of the picture. This brings up some related questions: 1. Do two smaller sails really do the same job as a genny in light air? 2. What is the proper name of the inner sail? 3. Can you fly both sails when the wind is abaft the beam, or must the inner sail be doused to let the larger headsail have all the wind it needs? 4. If it''s doused, won''t this compromise downwind performance? 5. Is a down-wind run performed wing-on-wing with the main up, or down? Won''t someone please forgive my ignorance and indulge me? This question has turned into much more than I intended, but since my knowledge is zero, any discussion here will be appreciated.  

Many cutters are arranged with a staysail boom which make tacking the staysail quite easy. Tacking the jib (yankee) is fairly easy as it simply ''blows through'' between the forestay and the staysail stay. With a large genoa one typically backwinds it to help with the friction of getting it through between the forestay and the stays''l-stay (a PTIA). 1. using a small jib (yankee) is not good for light wind sailing. A large genoa is usually employed for light winds - sometimes with the staysail furled and the stay removed/disconnected and stored. 2. Staysail - not much use on a beat as it is a ''bear'' to set correctly. On a beat, the advantage of a staysail is to remove the turbulence caused by the mast - its a ''*****'' to set correctly on a beat, otherwise its better to furl the staysail on a beat. A cutter sails best on a beam reach with the staysail ''filling-in'' the foretriangle. 3. A cutter sails well down to a broad reach ( just a little better than a sloop). If the staysail is on a boom it can be poled out to weather - similar to sailing''wing and wing'' with a sloop although the genoa and main are on the same side, the staysail on the opposite side (but then one would better take advantage of an asymetrical spinnaker). 4&5. Dead down wind .... better to tack downwind on a broad reach - any boat.  

You are asking a lot of questions here. Cutter rigs have become very popular with the traditional cruising boat croud because they offer quite a bit of versitilty with less of a performance handicap than a ketch or a yawl. The traditional definition of a cutter (a single masted, fore and aft, sailing rig with its mast located approximately 50% aft in the sail plan and with multiple headsails and in the most traditional definitions a reefing bowsprit) placed the mast very far aft compared to a sloop. This resulted in boats with reasonably large headsails. While traditional definitions of a sloop permitted multiple headsails, today, any single masted boat with multiple headsails seems to get called a cutter. These modern definition cutters, which are often really multiple headsail sloops, end up with comparatively small headsails. Traditionally, the inner most of the two headsails is hung on the ''forestay'' and is called the ''Forestaysail'' or simply the ''staysail''. The outer most heasail is hung on the ''Headstay'' or ''Jibstay'' and was called the ''Headsail'' or was more frequently simply refered to as the ''Jib''. If the Jib overlapped the shrouds it was called a genoa or a jumbo. If it had a high cut foot it was sometimes called a ''Yankee'' named for the J-Boat ''Yankee''. When you hear about the versatility of a cutter, this touted adaptability of the rig is often really most useful offshore, rather than for coatal cruising. Cutter fans like the ability to use the staysail as a storm sail by simply dropping (or furling) the Jib. In tacking a cutter, the Jib typically has two sheets and is tacked like a headsail on a sloop. Today, the staysail is typically mounted on a boom and is self-tending like a mainsail. In an effort to reduce the hazzard of a swinging boom on the foredeck, traditional offshore cutter rigs often had the staysail rigged with two sheets and they were tacked like a jib as well. The combination of the two small headsails on a cutter does not produce the same drive to one large sail of equal sail area. Beating the small staysail offers a lot of drag and turbulence for its drive. Most modern cutters sail best upwind with a genoa and the staysail dropped to the deck. Compared to tacking a similar sized sloop, tacking the genoa through the gap between the headstay and forestay is a real pain in the butt as you are forced to haul the sail forward around the stay and then back again. There are a lot of cutters that are very hard to safely tack without partially furling the genoas. Before roller furling Cutters rarely had jibs that overlapped the forestay more than a very small pecent of their overall area. For coastal cruising it is often nicer to have a removable forestay. This permits an open foretriangle making it substantially easier to tack the genoa and reducing wear and tear on the sail. The sails are generally adjusted fore to aft starting with the Jib, then moving aft, adjusting the staysail and then the mainsail. The staysail is hard to adjust as it often has a narrow groove between backwinding the mainsail and luffing. Cutters work best when reaching between just cracked off of a beat until a fairly shallow broad reach. They are pretty poor when deep reaching or running because of the blanketing affects of the three sails. Many cutters deep reach or run best with the Staysail dropped or furled essentially behaving like a sloop. Dead downwind the Jib and Mainsail are generally flown wing and wing with the staysail dropped or allowed to sag into the lee of the mainsail. While many of the older texts still advocate cutter rigs for offshore cruising, with the advent of more effective slab reefing gear, more modern thinking has moved towards fractional rigs being more advantagous for offshore work. The comparatively small jibs found on a fractional rig generally behave like the staysail on a cutter allowing a quick reduction in sail plan without having the problems found in cutter rigs. Good luck Jeff  

Lots of good information. I alwo have a question for the cutter knowledgable. I just bought my first cutter which is equipped with a removeable staysail stay. However, I can''t find a place to put the thing when I release it from deck. I can''t wrap it around the mast, it''s too long to attach to the base of the mast... what is usually done with these? I think fractional rigs still have one disadvantage compared to cutters. Using a staysail brings the center of effort back, and when combined with a reefed main allows all of the sail area to be close to the mast. During a real blow, this seems to balance a boat and keep her from being knocked around as much.  

Most boats develop weather helm as wind speeds increase. You may not want to move the center of effort aft further increasing weather helm which is what happens in most cutters when you drop the Jib. The cutter that I owned developed wicked weather helm when sailed with only the staysail in heavy winds. A properly designed fractional rig remains pretty much in balance when reefed or even when sailing under only a reefed mainsail. One of the nice things about a fractional rig is that you can use the backstay adjuster to precisely move the apparent center of effort in a breeze resulting in a near neutral helm. Jeff  

You got a lot of information for what I would guess is a question about how to got thr Yankee or Genoa to tack through the slot between the forestay and the staysail. I have a cutter without a staysail boom when I get ready to Tack I Roughly preset the staysail by tighting the lazy sheet and relacing the working staysail sheet so the staysail basically selftends like the main. I then proceed to tack as usual with one exception once the yankee starts to back completely release the working sheet and do not take up the new working sheet until the wind starts to blow the yankee through. In very light air you will probably have to walk it through. I almost always use the yankee and staysail with a cruising spinniker for light conditions.  

I realized when I first posted this that it was a big question, but I do appreciate the thoughful replies. I see now that the cutter rig has a narrower performance window than I had imagined. Seems as if it''s in the way more often than not, unless you''re on long off-shore tacks where it can perform. It definitely would create work for the coastal cruiser. If the staysail is club-footed, I can see problems with using space and even safety on the foredeck. Hats off to those of you who sail them and like them. Sitting here in the comfort of my livingroom, I think I''d rather live with baggy partially-furled genoas and the slim possibility that the whole roller furling set-up might misbehave on a sloop than mess with all that extra deck hardware and rigging just so I could be a bit faster on a long reach. Of couse, if I ever get a chance to sail on one, I''ll be able to see for myself. Jeff, as usual, your comments were especially helpful: a veritable primer. At the very least, now I have the nomenclature straight! Thanks to all. JeffC P.S.— As to what to do after detaching the forestay: of course the stay is longer than the distance between the mast base and the head of the stay. I have read that the solution is to place a hook on the front face of a spreader, such that the forestay may be disconnectted from the deck, the stay looped around the hook (much like the reverse of un-hooking a fouled halyard!), and then the end of the stay safely secured at the mast base. This would be analogous to grabbing a guitar string in the middle and pulling it to the side. Another option I read would be to run the forestay to an Aladdin (or some other) hook on the shroud, then staight down to the deck and attach it at the shroud attachment point. Adjusting the height of the hook would insure the proper amount of slack would be taken up. I''m sure there are several possible variations, but the goal would be securing the attachment point of the forestay to a convenient, out-of-the-way place on the deck, and finding a simple way of securing the suddenly too-long run of forestay...  

Hmm… As I''m letting all this soak in, I guess the whole staysail/detachable forestay could be secured out of way under light/medium conditions, then employed as the wind picked up, to replace the genny and avoid the drawbacks (no pun intended) of a poorly-shaped, partially-rolled genoa. If you left the staysail hanked-on and bagged in its "secured" position (let''s say at the foot of the mast), it could be set up rather quickly. You could even use the same jib sheets. 1. Roll up genoa. Secure with 2 (or more) sail ties. 2. Detach jibsheets and throw them behind forestay attachment on deck. 3. Attach forestay to its deck attachment (staysail is bagged and already hanked-on, halyard is already run to staysail head). 4. Pop open bag: attach sheets to clew of staysail. 5. Re-run sheets through fairleads on forestay car track. 5. Rip open bag, haul her up, secure halyard and bag. 6. Trim sail. Reefing the main before this sail change would make what foredeck work you need to do more manageable. Just random thoughts of a coastal cruiser… if this is practical, it may make a two-headsail sloop rig practical. We''re always tring to get the best of both worlds.  

I am going to add my two cents even though this is an old thread on the Cutter rig. Okay first. To answer the question: How do you tack a cutter? It is just like a sloop only there are two jibs. Our staysail takes care of itself because it is club footed. The jib comes around in front of it with out much trouble because it is not too large. "Piece of cake" really. I have owned classic wooden boats all these 40 plus years so it may not apply to folks who just can't even imagine doing such a thing. So in that light. I still love the boats of John Alden, Philip Rhodes, William Atkin, Lyle Hess, etc. Most of these boats were (and are) things of beauty both sitting still and under sail. Also, being of traditional wood construction they were not so structurally stiff. So cranking up the rig very tight could be damaging. The split rig can offer a larger sail area without having to do that. Most of my boats were sloops. This was before the days of ubiquitous roller furling. Several jibs a had to be stored below deck. When we finally got a cutter with a boomed staysail and high clewed jib that had roller furling, it was amazing. No sails below! Our cutter is not a heavy boat that needs really large sails. So she goes very well with the perhaps less efficient rig. Reducing sail is easier, faster and safer. Our boat balances perfectly with the jib rolled up and a single reef in the main. The staysail is good heavy weather sail. We don't race. I don't care to. We have done so, a little and find it more like driving in down town LA. Not so much fun. Our boat moves very well. We pass some boats and some pass us but I can say that the rig is great. Also, it is very strong. A little redundant in the rigging and I like it that way. I don't worry at all about rigging failure. A good cutter is pretty in a romantic way. Most sailors are more than a little romantic. I like the bowsprit too. It serves it's purpose and looks good while it's at it. Actually, if I had lots of money and was going for a high tech modern sailboat it would be a cutter. One that would plane and all that. What a gas!  

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> > Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on Cruisers Forums. 13-11-2022, 01:57   Boat: 1976 Tradewind 34 rigged . Perhaps this is entirely normal and I just need to get used to the fact that after I tack I need to go to the bow and manually pull the from the windward side to the leeward side. But if there are any tips or tricks to make this easier, I would appreciate any and all input. So here it goes: When i tack, the gets held back by the stay and is stuck onto the windward side of the staysail. No matter when I start pulling on the jib sheet during a tack, I cannot time it right so that the jib tacks without me having to go foreward to move the sail manually. This slows the down tremendously as I lose all momentum and have to up the main as if from a standstill to get the boat back up to speed. What to do what to do? Thank you! 13-11-2022, 02:59   Boat: US$4,550 of lead under a GRP hull with cutter rig , with not much distance between the jibstay and the cutter stay? (c) is your most forward sail (i) a yankee; (ii) a jib top (jib topsail); or (iii) an overlapping ? The issue has been raised before on CF, including about 14 years ago. You might like to peruse: 13-11-2022, 03:34   Boat: Swanson 42 & Kelly Peterson 44 up the main as if from a standstill to get the boat back up to speed. What to do what to do? Thank you! 13-11-2022, 03:54   Start close hauled, normally loose lazy sheet, fully trimmed working sheet ONLY after the sail fully backs, release the old working sheet. The exact timing here is not critical, but the best varies from boat to boat. DO NOT pull on the new working sheet! Sometimes easing the sheet works better than just blowing it. The backed sail will blow itself through the gap. Do not trim the new working sheet until the sail is all the way through. 13-11-2022, 04:01   Boat: Swanson 42 & Kelly Peterson 44 As others have suggested, if the gap is just too small, nothing works and you either help it across manually, or roll it up enough that it can get through on its own, then unroll it on the other side. This has the advantage that it does reduce wear on the . 13-11-2022, 08:14   Boat: 1976 Tradewind 34 C) this is the critical question in my view, my headsail is overlapping. I will check out the old thread thanj you! , with not much distance between the jibstay and the cutter stay? (c) is your most forward sail (i) a yankee; (ii) a jib top (jib topsail); or (iii) an overlapping genoa? The issue has been raised before on CF, including about 14 years ago. You might like to peruse: 13-11-2022, 08:52   Boat: Kadey Krogen 42 13-11-2022, 09:22   and the sheet release is critical. In a nut shell: -Start to tack, ease the genny sheet just enough slowly as you tack to allow the genny to bulge through the gap between the staysail stay and headsail stay. The clew should be held taught enough to not curl behind the staysail stay. The sail material/luff then goes through the gap. -Keep tacking and when that sail bulge fills strongly between the stays, release the sheet more quickly but controlled and the sail with blow right through the gap. It helps a lot to NOT have tied with bowlines or knots on the headsail. Just have a full length sheet that is bent on the headsail with no tied , just a double sheet bend. - Elmore Leonard 13-11-2022, 09:46   Boat: 1962 Columbia 29 MK 1 #37 13-11-2022, 19:34   Boat: US$4,550 of lead under a GRP hull with cutter rig C) this is the critical question in my view, my headsail is overlapping. 13-11-2022, 21:21   with. And they CERTAINLY didn't have roller furling! A MODERN "cutter" only pretends to be a cutter, and that is why you find it difficult to tack elegantly. Your boat wasn't designed for it! HOWEVER: Tom Cunliffe is a dyed in the wool cutter man, and if you can handle his accent, he gives a VERY good comparison of antique and modern cutters here: 13-11-2022, 22:22   Boat: Swanson 42 & Kelly Peterson 44 also attached for comparison. , , , Thread Tools Rate This Thread : Posting Rules post new threads post replies post attachments edit your posts is are code is are are are Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post For Sale or Trade: 1978islander34 Boats For Sale and Wanted 2 09-07-2019 08:39 For Sale: JoSchmaltz Classifieds Archive 0 24-06-2010 02:10 cgaskell Seamanship & Boat Handling 13 31-07-2009 15:53 chkrhntr1945 General Sailing Forum 14 26-04-2009 08:41 No Threads to Display. - - - - - - - Privacy Guaranteed - your email is never shared with anyone, opt out any time. AMERICA'S CUP CLASSIFIEDS NEWSLETTERS SUBMIT NEWS Bluewater Cruising: Cutter Rig versus Solent Rig - Part 2 Related Articles 158 IMAGES What's in a Rig? The Cutter Rig What's in a Rig? The Cutter Rig Is The Cutter Rig Sailboat the Best Choice for Offshore Cruising? How to Sail a Cutter Rigged Sailboat Cutter Rigged Sailboats [GUIDE] Advantages, Sailing, Options & Features SV Solstice / Cape George 31 // Hands-On Bluewater Sail-Training VIDEO gloucester schooner race 2006 Northstar 32 Hans Christian 43T enters the harbour The Mighty Westsail Flutterby sails the ICW Rigging to Sail: Core Sound 20 COMMENTS Cutter Rigged Sailboats [GUIDE] Advantages, Sailing, Options & Features A cutter rigged boat has redundant rigging and spreads the sail load across its rigging. And a cutter rig offers increased sail options-it offers increased sail area in light winds and easy and efficient ways to decrease sail area in heavy weather. What's in a Rig? The Cutter Rig The Cutter Rig. By: Pat Reynolds Sailboat Rigs, Sailboats. What's in a Rig Series #2. A variation on the last installment of What's in a Rig (the sloop) is the Cutter Rig. Although it has gone through some changes through the course of history, the modern cutter rig is generally a set-up with two headsails. The forward sail is called the ... Cutter (boat) Cutter (boat) A cutter is a name for various types of watercraft. It can apply to the rig (sail plan) of a sailing vessel (but with regional differences in definition), to a governmental enforcement agency vessel (such as a coast guard or border force cutter), to a type of ship's boat which can be used under sail or oars, or, historically, to a ... Cutter Rig—Optimizing and/or Converting Now we get to the nitty gritty: How to convert your boat to a cutter rig and how to make existing cutters better. Virtues of a Cutter Rig, by Lin and Larry Pardey Preview: Our Favorite Sailing Rig: The Cutter, by Lin and Larry Pardey. Email this Post to a Friend. F or any sailing boat under 45 feet, nothing beats a properly-designed cutter rig, especially if you sail shorthanded. By properly designed I mean, having a staysail that is large enough to be used as the only headsail in winds above 20 knots. Is The Cutter Rig Sailboat the Best Choice for Offshore Cruising? The cutter rig sailboat is many sailors' first choice of cruising boat, although it's not quite as efficient to windward as a sloop. But on any kind of reach it's the real deal - and here's why Cutter or sloop rig? Which is best for offshore and ocean cruising A cutter rig breaks the yacht's sail area down into smaller, easier to manage sails. Winching in two smaller sails is easier than one big sail, as the loads are lighter. Cutter-Rigged Sailboat Definition: Everything You Need to Know A cutter-rigged sailboat is a versatile and elegant type of sailing vessel that offers sailors a range of benefits and capabilities. With its distinctive rigging setup, the cutter sailboat has long been favored by sailors for its maneuverability, stability, and ability to handle different wind conditions. In this comprehensive definition, we ... Guide to Understanding Sail Rig Types (with Pictures) More Info on Sail Rig Types First of all, what is a sail rig? A sail rig is the way in which the sails are attached to the mast (s). In other words, it's the setup or configuration of the sailboat. The rig consists of the sail and mast hardware. The sail rig and sail type are both part of the sail plan. We usually use the sail rig type to refer to the type of boat. How to Sail a Cutter Rigged Sailboat How to Sail a Cutter Rigged Sailboat A mounted sailboat having two or more headsails is known as cutter rig sailboat or simply a 'cutter'. Only a few other boats can match the level of wind versatility and easy handling of a cutter rig sailboat because of its added headsails. As is the case with most things in this world, a fair amount of practice is required to become perfect at sailing a ... The Cutter The cutter may, therefore, be considered as possessing many and great advantages for fast sailing. The rig comprises four sails—mainsail, fore-sail, jib, and gaff-topsail. The mainsail is spread by means of a gaff and boom; the outer end of the latter generally extends some little way over the stern; the fore-leech of the fore-sail is ... CRUISING SAILBOAT RIGS: Sloops, Cutters, and Solent Rigs Cruising sailors once upon a time preferred such rigs, at least on larger cruising boats, because each separate sail requiring handling was smaller and thus more manageable. These days, however, by far the most popular rig for both racing and cruising sailboats is the simple sloop rig. This has a single mast supporting a single Marconi mainsail ... Cutter boats for sale Cutter yachts are large, single-masted, three-sail (two foresails and a mainsail) sailing vessels usually used for time-honored endeavors. These sailing vessels boast a remarkable heritage as highly desirable craft renowned for their exceptionally draft and exceptionally wide beam. The Cutter Sailplan A cutter rig is the cheapest to erect, he easiest to securely stay, and when designed with a moderate aspect ratio, a self-tending boomed staysail, and a jib, a cutter is the handiest and probably most efficient in more different situations than the other rigs. But pick what YOU want, and most of these designs can have a different rig drawn in ... Why CUTTER rigged sailboats are the BEST! [Q&A] Why CUTTER rigged sailboats are the BEST! [Q&A] Sailing Millennial Falcon 93.2K subscribers Subscribed 3.6K 59K views 3 years ago In this weeks Q&A we answer the following questions: 00:41 - What ... Cutter Rigged Sailboats A cutter rig sailboat has two headsails instead of just one. The jib is located forward and is either attached to a bowsprit or the bow. The inner sail is ca... How do you tack a cutter? The traditional definition of a cutter (a single masted, fore and aft, sailing rig with its mast located approximately 50% aft in the sail plan and with multiple headsails and in the most traditional definitions a reefing bowsprit) placed the mast very far aft compared to a sloop. This resulted in boats with reasonably large headsails. Tacking a cutter rigged sailboat I am having some trouble tacking my (fairly new to me) cutter rigged boat . Perhaps this is entirely normal and I just need to get used to the fact that after I tack I need to go to the bow and Bluewater Cruising: Cutter Rig versus Solent Rig In a previous blog, Upffront evaluated the pros and cons of a cutter rig as a popular bluewater cruising set up. Now, it's the turn of the solent rig. Like the cutter rig, the solent rig also utilises two headsails; the two different sized genoas sit close together, the second just behind the main forestay, unlike those on the cutter which sit ... Sailing as a Sloop Thoughts regarding reefing and praise of the cutter rig for a small offshore sailboat. Releasing the Staysail stay and moving it aft to sail the boat as a s... Sloop Gaff rigged sloop, 1899. A sloop is a sailboat with a single mast [1] typically having only one headsail in front of the mast and one mainsail aft of (behind) the mast. [note 1] Such an arrangement is called a fore-and-aft rig, and can be rigged as a Bermuda rig with triangular sails fore and aft, or as a gaff-rig with triangular foresail(s) and a gaff rigged mainsail. catamaran gulet motorboat powerboat riverboat sailboat trimaran yacht