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New Rudders

Replacement Sailboat Rudders and Centerboards

Standard Rudders

Foss Foam Products of Florida, Inc. manufactures sailboat rudders and centerboards.  Our products are produced with a gel-coat finish and rugged fiberglass shell. Each rudder is filled with foam under pressure. Foss Foam is high density (20 PSI), closed cell, polyurethane foam. This foam core is chemically bonded to the fiberglass shell. The formula for Foss Foam was formulated by Chuck Foss in the 1960’s and still remains a trade secret to this day.  Foss Foam is light weight, extremely strong and durable, and is impervious to gasoline and diesel.

Available Rudders We have the ability to modify these rudders to fit many other boats or we can make a mold from your old rudder. Please don’t hesitate to call!

Beneteau – We have made replacement rudders for the following models. Some are modified rudders, plus we have around 20 Beneteau molds. We will need your rudder or precise measurements in order to manufacturer a new rudder. 13.5, 311, 321, 325, 331s, 343, 345, 361, 367, 370, 381, 13.5, 361, 393 405, 41, 42, 43, 44, 456, 461. 47, 473, 477, 50, 51                                                                  

Cabo Rico – 38 Cal – Fun, 22, 24,25, 27, 9.2, 28, 31, 33, 35, 39 New & 39 Old Cape Dory – 30 Captiva – 25, 25 Centerboard Catalina   – 25, 30 Columbia – 29 Com-Pac – Order through manufacturer Creative Marine Rudder, Centerboard CSY – 44 Endeavour   – 32, 33, 35, 37, 38, 40, 42, 43, 52 Endeavour Cat – E-Cat44, Victory 35, Victory 36, Manta 40, Manta 42, E-Cat 30,34,36 Hunter Marine – All Sizes   All years Islander – 40 Irwin – 28, 32, 33, 34, 37, 38, 43, 52, 54, 65

Leopard – 40, 42, 43, 44 Marine Innovator – 17 Morgan – 23 Centerboard, Large centerboard, Rudders – 30 and 30/2, 34, 383 & 384, 41,44, 45 (Cruising/racing), Antigua 51 – 53 Nimble – All Models – All Years O’Day – 19.2, 22.2, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 28, 30, 31, 32.2, 34, 35, 39, 40 Pearson   – 26, 27, 40 Thru Chip Lawson

Seidelman – 34 Spindrift/Chrysler/OME/Starwind – Swing Keel, 19, 23, 27 Soverign –  17, 21/23  

S2 – 9.2, 11.0 Tanzer – 22 and 26 TMI – 27, 30 Watkins – 23 Centerboard – Rudders – 27, 29, 33, 36

Rudder Order Guidelines

Foss Foam ships sailboat rudders all over the world. It is important to verify the dimensions of the rudder and shaft before we begin production. In many cases we have drawings/sketches. If we do not have drawings, it is the responsibility of the customer to provide the drawings. These drawings do not need to be professional quality. Sketches are acceptable, and we will be happy to provide you with examples. If you do not have the ability to make a drawing, please enlist the help of someone who does. Pictures of the rudder with a tape measure laying on it are not accepted. We do not usually drill holes in pipe shaft rudder as this is more accurately done upon installation.

Information required to order a standard rudder:

• Verify the rudder outside dimensions of the drawing you are providing.
• Verify the shaft od and id, exposed shaft length and any machining and the orientation of the machining.

Information required for nonstandard rudders.

• The outside dimensions of the rudder including shaft to the top of the rudder (hull angle). If we do not supply you with a drawing. You will need to make one.
• Shaft detail. The od, id, exposed shaft length, along with any machining. The orientation of the machining.

Thanks, Bob “Al” Walker

Phone: +371 22-33-0100 Email:  [email protected]

Dotan Maritime Industries Ltd. Gailu 4a, Ulbroka, Stopini, Latvija, LV-2130

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• Rudders for all dinghies and catamarans

Rudder 20 Blade 1

• The Dotan® Kick-Up rudder has a unique mechanism that allows the rudder blade to be raised or lowered instantly.
• Cast-off from shore (beach) is extremely easy with Dotan® Kick-Up rudder.
• If the rudder blade hits underwater obstacles such as rocks, sandbanks, or jellyfish, etc., then rudder mechanism will kick-up and automatically raise the blade to prevent clashes.

Description : The Dotan® Kick-Up rudder has been designed to use with sailboats and catamarans (length between 10 to 17 ft.)

The Dotan® Kick-Up rudder comes with a rudder box, blade, and tiller. (Tiller extension is optional.)

The Dotan® Kick-Up rudder box manufactured from Glass Reinforced Polyamide and it has Ultraviolet (UV) protection. The Dotan® Kick-Up rudder blade is manufactured with  unique technology  (know-how) of high pressure and simultaneous thermal shock. This gives the rudder blade structure special stiffness properties. The fiberglass blade is reinforced with an inner spar (longeron). Dotan® Kick-Up uses the NACA 0009 hydrodynamic profile design basis for the rudder blade cross-section design and it has 20mm thickness.

The kit is supplied with a tiller. Tiller has been fabricated from 28 mm diameter and 1.5mm thick aluminum pipe and it has been deep anodized to protect it from marine environment. An end cap is placed at end of the tiller to stop water ingress in the tiller.

Upper & lower gudgeon- Ø8mm or Ø10 mm holes, (optionally available with pins Ø8mm or Ø10 mm).

The design of the rudder allows you to adjust the distance between the upper and lower gudgeon, thereby enabling compatibility with diverse boat transoms/sterns. The upper gudgeon slides freely along the rudder box track. Position it according to your boat's specific transom/stern dimensions and fix it in the track by screwing in the four screws supplied

  Sale!     Up to 50% discount on the tiller extension when ordering the rudder.  

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• Rudder Blade 25
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• Rudder Blade 14
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Products with great discount when purchasing rudder

Ronstan BattleStick - 610mm (24") Long

TILLER EXTENSION - LightweightLength: 610 mm (24"), Weight: 140 g (4,94 oz). Tiller extension is best suited for the learning process in sailing schools of higher craftsmanship because of its high quality and related functionalities. FEATURES&

Sprenger tiller extension

Tiller extension is best suited for the learning process in sailing schools of higher craftsmanship because of its high quality and related functionalities. Tiller extension (black) 600 mm with cell caoutchouc handle,Joint: rubber with rope, de

Urethane universal joint

Smooth, uniform rotation in all directions and a quick, firm reponse to steering movements. The RF3133 universal joint with snap-on cover is designed to allow quick fitting and removal of the tiller extension from the fixed base. A curved surface ada

Rubber joint

Rubber joint (detachable) with rope inlay Beschreibung Pinnenausleger sind immer noch das flexibelste System zum steuern und lenken. Bewegen Sie die Pinne auch dann noch, wenn Sie sich zur stärkeren Gewichtsverlagerung nach außen lehne

Dotan`s rudder benefits

Flick-of-the-wrist magic, rudder box: constructed of non-corrosive, rudder blade .

The rudder blade is lightweight and yet durable thanks to the integrated spar and special know-how of high-pressure technology with thermal shock. The Dotan rudder blade's profile is designed on the basis of the STEINER and NACA 0009 hydrodynamic profile (National Advisory Committee for Aeronautics). The Dotan rudder blade's shape minimizes wave and inductive resistance  ( more info . )

Rudder Adjustment

Encountering obstacles.

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Feel free to contact us using this contact form or write us directly to [email protected]

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Catalac 8M upgrade Rudders and install Skegs

• Post author By Rick
• Post date June 30, 2010
• 1 Comment on Catalac 8M upgrade Rudders and install Skegs

by Didier Grieten contact Didier Grieten

When I bought my 8M, it was equipped with the older style lifting steel blade rudders.The rudder blades however were in very bad condition, with considerable corrosion and rust. Also, the wood support structure had to be replaced as it was rotting away and looking at the rudder blades showed they required some TLC as well.

In some areas thickness was reduced to 50% and rust still working to get it even thinner… This meant some serious work on the rudders was required… Here’s what it was supposed to look like:

I had three options, the first being replace the wood, remove the heavily corroded areas and weld in new material or just entirely replace the steel blades with new ones, get them galvanized and throw on a few coatings of paint… The second one was to replace the whole rudder setup with the newer style Catalac skeg / rudder setup. 

Tom Lack had received complaints about windward performance of the lifting steel rudders and in 1980 he redesigned the rudders and gave the Catalac 8M and 9M new underwater profiles. This was a newly designed skeg hung rudder system. I heard this modification was a success and greatly improved the windward performance of the boats. Since this upgrade was on all Lack family designs going forward, I figure this will improve my 8M’s handling and tracking. Here’s an example of the redesigned skeg hung rudders:

Third option, design something new. But as this is not a racing boat I figured I’d stay with a known working setup so I did not even consider going that way as it might involve a lot of trial and error… 

After some inquiring on various forums and this web site, I found out (obvious?) pros and cons of both Catalac setups 

I don’t intend keeping the boat on a mooring where she will ground twice a day, which was the original intent of the lifting steel rudders, so after some consideration, I decided I would redesign the worn out rudders to the newer skeg hung rudder Catalac design. 

I’m sorry to say that I’m unable to provide improvement figures on this redesign, as I never sailed the boat with the original rudder configuration. It may be a bit late in the game, but if anyone has done this conversion and can provide data on the Catalac before and after conversion, I would be more than happy to incorporate his findings/data into this article! 

Phase One: decide on rudder/skeg dimensions… Initially I was thinking of building big skegs. After all, the whole purpose of adding skegs is to improve boat handling…

However, a second thought slowed me down. Skegs are a good thing, but keep them a reasonable size. I didn’t want to end up with a boat which wouldn’t tack anymore due to too much stability! Over sizing the skegs might mean backing the headsail to tack, maybe even having several attempts before a successful tack or even worse, I’d have to start the engine just to tack…

As I had no intention of going through trial and error sessions I decided to stay close to the original dimensions.

No one seems to have any dimensions or data readily available but the webmaster of this site (Rick) provided me pictures of his boat on the hard. From the pictures it wasn’t difficult to determine the dimensions of his rudders and skegs… 

The total rudder/skeg surface being a bit smaller than the surface of the original steel blades, I made my rudders just a bit larger than Rick’s rudders, not exaggerating as I did not feel I needed to match up the surface area with the surface of the steel blades. (so maybe even bigger rudders would be OK)

The drawing below this sentence shows the dimensions I used, and could be used as a template or draft for others…

The above drawing shows dimensions for skegs, rudders and Rudder ‘top’, this last one is added onto the top of the rudders and I did this to make my life easy. In this way, the top of the rudders are the same thickness as the original wooden blocks and I did not need to adapt the rudder hinges and other connecting pieces 😉 

I then purchased a few marine grade plywood panels: 18mm plywood for skeg & rudder main part and 10mm plywood for rudder top. I then cut out all required parts, 4 of each : 

Skegs : 4 sets  Rudders : 4 sets  Rudder top : 4 sets

Next step is working with a wood router. Shaping the leading edge of two rudder panels. Rudder & skeg leading edge radius 1.8 so circular as width = 3.6 (2*1.8 panel glued) Skeg trailing edge radius 2.1 to approx keep distance between skeg & rudder equal, I estimated the distance between both would be about 5 to 6 mm (big guess number, but I think it is about right.

The skeg leading edge was treated the same with a router as the rudder leading edges …

The panels were then glued together with epoxy glue. I used woodscrews to hold the panels together… Screws were countersunk and covered with epoxy, then sanded smooth:

The rudders trailing edge was treated a bit differently :

The rudder top parts then were copied from the original rudder head blocks to match the boat rudder mounting detail. There was some routing involved and all fixings to the rudder changed over from woodscrews to nuts and bolts. I epoxy glued bushings in every rudder attachment point. I figured in theory, no wood will ever be in contact with water as all is covered in epoxy…

The rudder trailing edge, no router, no saw, we have abused our planing tool to do this one…

At some point after most profiling was done, the involved areas were smoothened out with a wood file…

Next step was to attach the skegs to the hulls. I saw two options… Bolt the skegs through or glass them on. The Catalac skegs were glassed to the hulls, they were not part of the original hull mold.

My initial idea was to bolt the skegs through the hull into the rear wet locker.

In investigating this option I discovered the wet lockers had a double bottom. If I persisted in bolting the skegs onto the boat, this would actually mean removing the bottom of the wet locker just to be able to access the bolts and then creating and re-installing a new locker bottom or at a minimum install a big inspection hatch.

In considering both options again, I reasoned that if the boat stuck an underwater object, resulting in ripping the skeg off and causing a gap in the hull, that the damage would obviously be under that locker behind the main rear bulkhead. I could see no large difference between having the bolts ripped out with the reinforcement or a glassed skeg ripping out a hole when hitting something at speed. The result would be the same, and the boat would be in no danger of sinking. 

This pretty much dissuaded me from going through the difficulties of bolting and remanufacturing the locker bottom. I glassed the skegs to the hulls under the rear lockers. I made sure to have a very strong hull attachment expecting the skeg to break before anything being ripped off the boat structure… 

So to glue/glass the skegs to the hulls, the procedure I used was the following :

– Installed the rudders

– Put a thick cloth around the rudders to provide for space as both rudders and skegs will need some spacing and they both will still receive an epoxy underwater coating.

– Aligned the rudders straight, presented the skegs to the hulls and, taking into account the skegs are a few cm longer than the rudders. I then corrected the top of the skeg to the hull curvature (I had to check this on the boat as both hulls did not seem equal so I could not easily have measured this). Then we glued the skegs to the boat with epoxy glue, using the portable workmate bench in the photo.

After completing the installation, as the weather permitted, I overlapped 6 layers of fiber/epoxy. Every layer of fibermat about two to three cm over the previous one. This has taken some time, as I had to wait for good weather conditions and unfortunately I have not taken progress photos, but I suppose you understand what I did… If anyone is in doubt please contact me and I will try to explain in detail…

After this all that was left was the underwater epoxy coating….

Here is a photo of the nearly completed skeg/rudder installation. (in this picture the stainless steel skeg shoe is not installed yet, there is a plug in the bushing in order to keep it clean from excessive epoxy. The shoe has been bolted to the skeg through this bushing)

I still need to clean and repaint the metal parts (hinges and bar connecting to the steering quadrant), but other than that, I’m done!

• Tags Catamaran Interviews

Owner of a Catalac 8M and Catamaransite webmaster.

1 reply on “Catalac 8M upgrade Rudders and install Skegs”

Hi Rick. I am the proud new owner of Duetta 1996, 900 Sail number 911. It needs a little work (sail drives service and engines recomissioned) and the rudders. The trailing edge on one has a small amount of rot. I’m planning to plane the bad one back to good wood and match the good one then sand and epoxy them. The metal work is pretty good but there to a fair bit of slack in the hinge bolts (there’s probably a better name for them) I have access to a lathe and am intending to ream the holes back to round, bush and replace the bolts with double nuts or cotter pin. Do you have any comments or has anyone else come up with another suggestion. I’m on a tight budget otherwise I would probably get them remade is stainless so any suggestions for painting the metal prior to refitting would also be great received. Thanks in advanve.

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Building a Faster Rudder

Boost performance with a bit of fairing and better balanced helm..

We’re cruisers not racers. We like sailing efficiently, but we’re more concerned with safety and good handling than squeezing out the last fraction of a knot. Heck, we’ve got a dinghy on davits, placemats under our dishes, and a print library on the shelf. So why worry about perfection below the waterline?

The reason is handling. A boat with poorly trimmed sails and a crudely finished rudder will miss tacks and roll like a drunkard downwind when the waves are up. On the other hand, a rudder that is properly tuned will agilely swing the boat through tacks even in rough weather, and provide secure steering that helps prevents broaching when things get rolly. The difference in maximum available turning force between a smooth, properly fitted rudder and the same rudder with a rough finish and poor fit can be as much as 50% in some circumstances, and those are circumstances when you need it the most. It’s not about speed, it’s about control.

It Must Be Smooth

Smooth is fast. That’s obvious. But it makes an even bigger difference with steering. Like sails, only half of rudder force comes from water deflected by the front side of the blade. The rest results from water being pulled around the backside as attached flow. How well that flow stays attached is related to the shape of the blade, which we can’t easily change, and to the surface finish of the blade, which we can.

Remember the school experiment, where you place a spoon in a stream of water and watched how the water would cling to the backside of the spoon? Now, try the experiment again as a grown-up, but with a different set of materials.

Try this with a piece of wood that is smooth and one that is very rough; the water will cling to the smooth surface at a greater angle than the rough surface. Try piece of smooth fiberglass or gelcoat; the water will cling even better because the surface is smoother. Try a silicone rubber spatula from the kitchen. Strangely, even though the surface is quite smooth, the water doesn’t cling well at all. We’ll come back to that.

Investigators have explored this in a practical way, dragging rudders through the water in long test tanks (US Navy) and behind powerboats.

If we are trying to climb to windward, it’s nice to get as much lift out of the rudder as practical, before drag becomes too great or before it begins to stall with normal steering adjustments. If the boat has an efficient keel and the leeway angle is only a few degrees, the rudder can beneficially operate at a 4-6 degree angle. The total angle of attack for the rudder will be less than 10 degrees, drag will be low, and pointing will benefit from the added lift. If the boat is a higher leeway design—shoal draft keels and cruising catamarans come to mind—then the rudder angle must stay relatively low to avoid the total angle (leeway + rudder angle) of the rudder from exceeding 10 degrees. That said, boats with truly inefficient keels but large rudders (catamarans have two—they both count if it is not a hull-flying design) can sometimes benefit from total angles slightly greater than 10 degrees—they need lift anywhere they can get it.

How can you monitor the rudder angle? If the boat is tiller steered, the tiller will be about 0.6 inches off center for every degree or rudder angle, for every 3 feet of tiller length. In other words, the 36-inch tiller should not be more than about 2 inches off the center line. If the boat is wheel steered, next time the boat is out of the water, measure the rudder angle with the wheel hard over. Count the number of turns of the wheel it takes to move the rudder from centered to rudder hard over, and measure the wheel diameter. Mark the top of the rim of the wheel when the boat is traveling straight, preferably coasting without current and no sails or engine to create leeway.

The rim of the wheel will move (diameter x 3.146 x number of turns)/(degrees rudder angle at hard over) for each degree of rudder angle. Keep this in the range of 2-6 degrees when hard on the wind, as appropriate to your boat. It will typically be on the order of 4-10 inches at the steering wheel rim. A ring of tape at 6 degrees can help.

How do we minimize rudder angle while maintaining a straight course? Trimming the jib in little tighter or letting the mainsheet or traveler out a little will reduce pressure on the rudder and reduce the angle. Some boats actually sail to weather faster and higher, and with better rudder angles, by lowering the  traveler a few inches below the center line.

On the other hand, tightening the mainsheet and bringing the traveler up, even slightly above the center line on some boats, will increase the pressure and lift.

Much depends on the course, the sails set, the rig, the position of the keel, the wind, and the sea state. Ultimately, some combination of small adjustments should bring the rudder angle into the appropriate range. Too much rudder angle and you are just fighting yourself.

• Turn this rudder just 10 degrees and the end plate is lost, reducing the amount of lift generated.

• This rudder might as well be transom hung, the way that the end cap just disappears.

• Stern-hung rudders, and spade rudders with large gaps between the hull and the top of the rudder will lose their lift at the “tip” of the blade near the surface.

Surface roughness affects the lift from the rudder in two ways. A rougher surface has slightly lower lift through the entire range of angles, the result of a turbulent boundary layer instead of smooth flow over the entire surface. More dramatically, rougher blades stall at lower angles and stall more completely. The difference between a faired rudder with a polished finish and a rudder carrying a 10-year accumulation of rolled-on antifouling paint can be as much is 35 percent (see “Rudder Savvy to Boost Boat Performance,” above).

What can we do? If your rudder is a lift up type, don’t use bottom paint. Fair the blade within an inch of its life and lay on a gloss topside paint as smoothly as possible, sanding between coats. If you use a brush, stroke the brush parallel to the waterline, not along the length of the blade.

Which is faster, a gloss finish or one that has been dulled with 1000 grit sandpaper? Opinions go both ways, and we believe it may depend on the exact nature of the paint, which leads to the question, “Should we wax the blade?” The answer is a resounding, no.

Wax is a hydrophobic (readily beads water), like the silicone rubber spatula you tested, and as a result, water doesn’t always cling as well. Thus, whether the paint should be deglossed or not depends on the chemistry of the paint, but in all cases the final sanding should be 1000 grit or finer.

If the rudder stays in the water, antifouling paint is required. Sand the prior coat perfectly smooth. There should be no evidence of chips, runners, or any irregularity at all. Using a mohair roller, lay the paint on thin, and apply multiple coats to withstand the scrubbing you will give your rudder from time to time.

Even if you use soft paint on the rest of the boat, consider hard paint for the rudder. Sure, it will build up and you will have to sand it off periodically, but the rudder is small and no part of your boat is more critical to good handling. Take the time to maintain it as a perfect airfoil.

Close the Gap

Ever notice the little winglets on the tips of certain airplanes? As we know, those are intended to reduce losses off the tip of the wing. The alternatives are slightly longer wings or slightly lower efficiency. At the fuselage end of the wing, of course, there is no such loss because the fuselage serves as an end plate. The same is true with your rudder.

There’s not much you can do about losses from the tip; making the rudder longer will increase the chance of grounding and increase stress on the rudder, rudder shaft, and bearings. Designers have experimented with winglets, but they the catch weeds and the up-and-down motion of the transom makes them inefficient. However, we can improve the end plate effect of the hull by minimizing the gap between the hull and the rudder.

In principle it should be a close fit, but in practice the gap is most often wide enough to catch a rope. Just how much efficiency is lost by gap of a few inches? The answer is quite a lot. A gap of just an inch can reduce lift by as much as 10-20 percent, depending on the size and shape of the rudder and the speed. A gap of 1-2 mm is quite efficient, but normal flexing of the rudder shaft may lead to rubbing.

If the gap is tight, the slightest bend from impact with a submerged log can cause jamming and loss of steering, though in my experience once the impact is sufficient to bend the shaft, a small difference in clearance is unlikely to make much difference; the shaft will bend until the rudder strikes the hull. Just how tight is practical depends on the type of construction, fitting accuracy, and how conservative the designer was in their engineering.

Carbon shafts, tubular shafts, and rudders with skegs flex less, while solid shafts generally flex more, all things being equal. Normally a clearance of about 1/4-inch per foot of rudder cord is practical, and performance-oriented boats often aim for much less. If you can reach your fingers through, that’s way too much. Hopefully the hull is relatively flat above the rudder so that the gap does not increase too much with rudder angle.

Practical Sailor’s technical editor Drew Frye is the author of the books Keeping a Cruising Book for Peanuts and Rigging Modern Anchors. He blogs at his website, sail delmarva.blogspot.com .

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22 comments.

How happy to see good technical information about the science of boat speed and control. This information is valuable to everyone, but the “mainly just cruising” cohort usually doesn’t get enough in an easily understandable form. I always suggest some club level racing as the best way to learning how to sail, but many prospective racers have been put off from the sport or haven’t had good opportunities to join the fleets. Technical seminars are generally either too advanced for beginners to understand properly, and the beginner classes are frequently too basic to inspre those who would benefit from a deeper knowledge base in the science of sailing. Good on you, Practical Sailor, for your technical stories hitting the “sweet spot,” getting this information to those we’ll benefit most.

Great article. How about considering modifying a rudder to make it a hydrodynamically balanced rudder. I did it to my boat and the difference is outstanding. If I remember correctly 7% of the rudder area is forward of pivot center. It is a skeg hung rudder that now turns like it’s a spade rudder.

I’m “skeg hung” also. Would you be so kind as to posting a link or providing info as to you accomplished this feat. Thanks!

A very clear explanation of some quite complicated hydrodynamics – thank you! I am surprised by the US Navy results showing benefit of sanding further than 400 grit. Most other experimental data suggest there is negligible advantage in going beyond about 360 grit. Is the original reference publicly available? On Michael Cotton’s comment, a couple of points: Firstly, the amount of balance (i.e how far back you put the stock in the blade) has no impact on the hydrodynamic performance of a spade rudder. What it does do is change the feel of the rudder; a well balanced rudder will be easier to use, thereby probably allowing the steerer to sail the boat better. For a skeg rudder, the hydrodynamic impact of changing the balance depends very much on how the skeg/blade combination is configured. Secondly, 7% of rudder area forward of the stock is not enough for most rudders. The position of the centre of pressure is dependent on a lot of factors (aspect ratio, rudder angle etc.), but it is usually at least 15% back from the leading edge on a spade rudder, more often 20%. A balance somewhere between 10% and 15% is likely to give just enough feel without too much weight. However, rudder balance is still a bit of a black art, it really does depend on the rudder geometry.

the statement that one doesn’t want a silicone/silane coated ( super-smooth, hydrophobic: silicone-silane is just the example I am choosing, since it is now in use as a massively-speeding hull-coating, ttbomk ), as it *induces* flow-separation…

looks to me like conflating cavitation with flow-separation.

People have no problem teflon/ptfe-coating aviation-wings, as a means of *preventing* flow-separation.

the super-slick shape of a Cirrus’s composite wing, if made super-smooth/polished & super-slippery, “air-phobic”, as it were, *improves* its performance, not detracts from it….

Flow is always 1. laminar, then 2. turbulent, then 3. flow-separation.

unless the angle-of-attack ( AoA ) is small-enough to prevent separation.

The Gentry Tufts System, for *seeing* when a separation-bubble begins, on a sail, is brilliant ( Arvel Gentry was a fluid dynamicist, & realized that once one has a *series* of tufts, from luff on back, about 1/4 up the luff, one can *see* the beginning of a flow-separation-bubble, & tune the sail to keep it *just*-beginning, because *that* is MAX lift. Wayback Machine has his site archived, btw )

The aircraft designer Jan Roskam wrote of a DC-10 crashing because pebbled-ice as thick as the grit on 40-grit sandpaper had formed on the upper wings…

obviously, engineered to require laminar, there, but having turbulent, cost all those lives.

iirc, it was Arvel Gentry, or “Principles of Yacht Design”, that stated it takes a ridge of about 0.1mm, only, to trip the flow around a mast from laminar to turbulent…

Given how barnacles & such are generally 100x or more as thick as that, when removed from a hull, I think laminar-flow is something that exists only for the 1st day or so after launching!

I now want to see experiment showing polar curves for rudders coated normally, uncoated, & ailicone-silane coated, to see if it is the coating that induces separation-bubbles, or if it is AoA exceeding functional angle, for that surface & foil,, while the boundary-layer is in specifically turbulent flow, as opposed to the ideal laminar, as aviation’s results indicate…

just an amateur student of naval-architecture & aircraft-design ( Daniel P. Raymer’s “Conceptual Aircraft Design” is *brilliant*, btw ), who happens to study this stuff autistically, as that is the only way to make my designs become absolutely-competent, is all…

I got a pearson and the rudder broke. Can I just replace with a outboard rudder mount it off set for room for outboard need info.

You could but it will not work very well. How badly it would perform is difficult to say. It might be just poor or disastrous. Things really need to be balanced on sail boats.

Polished rudders stall at low angles of attack and ask any hobie cat racer.

Pi is NOT 3.146

3.1416 maybe

Yup, 3.1416. Typo.

Before 2005 , when I fully retired and went cruising 10 months per year, I changed auto pilots, the hydraulics of which reduced the maximum rudder angle. “Someday” had always been difficult to steer in marinas, so I added 30% more rudder area to the Gulfstar 41′ by deepening and following the existing angles. (the pivot was unchanged, as all added area was aft of that.) It increased rudder effort noticeably, but not excessively, improved motor maneauvering and allowed being able to hold a close line better. Noticeably, it caused a lot more stalling of the rudder whenever it was turned very much. A recent tangle with a Guatemala fish net damaged the extension, which I had intended to be sacrificial. I cleaned up the separation somewhat, but have not replaced the extension. The boat again now requires more steering correction when heading at all upwind, but the rudder does not stall as easily.

This is not a scientific study, just my personal non-scientific observations. The added rudder area was quite low, and the fairing quality was…well! modest.

I’ve seen data suggesting ~ 400 grit is best, and I’ve seen data suggesting polished is best. They were both smart, respected guys that I would not second guess. My conclusion is that other factors, such as the specific foil profile and the type of coating, are involved. Let’s just agree that many layers of rolled bottom paint with a few lumps and chips is sub-optimal! We’re talking about cruising boats.

Thanks for great article. I’m convinced enough to go sand my bottom paint off the lifting rudder of my Dragonfly Tri.

Absolutely! No lifting rudder should have bottom paint. My Farrier rudder was sanded fair and painted with gloss white.

Dagger boards and center boards that retract still need antifouling, since they do not lift clear of the water, but because they are in a confined space with little oxygen or water flow, fouling is very limited. Because the space is tight and paint build-up can cause jamming, sand well and limit the number of coats. For my center board I go with two coats on the leading edge (exposed even when lifted) and one coat on the rest.

I do remember a comment directed to cruisers a few years back suggesting that a faster cruiser would be more likely to get out of the way of dirty weather, especially with modern forecasting. I reckoned that this concept would gain traction, but I haven’t seen it. Can anyone weigh in on this opinion?

I would agree ONLY for coastal crusing when a safe harbor is always no more than a day away. OR ocean racing where speed matters and the boat is kept light. We all know weather reports past 24hours are a guide not a guarantee. Once a storm is bearing down NO boat even a fast one is going it out run a storm. Also we sail on boats that need wind and it’s always a balance between a course between high pressure systems (doldrums) and low pressure systems (high likelyhood of a storm) so because we seek wind sometimes we get more then we want. Try and avoid that and you risk venturing too far into the high pressure system and NO wind. So yes weather forecasts can give you a 1-2 day weather window and a fast boat that can get the hell out of dodge and put a few miles between itself and the oncoming weather could avoid a storm. BUT we are usually not talking about a world ocean race boat vs an old full keel tank. We are talking a faster but still rather slow loaded down cruising boat. It may be only the difference of 7knot average vs 9 knots average. Even a faster cruiser/racer is not a stripped down Volvo series racer. And even those super fast ocean racers pushing the edge of technology get caught in storms and frankly I would not want to use one of those boats as my floating home on the water. They are a thrilling ride but far from comfortable. And they STILL can’t sail fast enough to out run a storm and guarantee you you will never have to sail in big waves and high winds. There is not a cruising SAIL boat that is as fast as a center console fishing boat with 1200hp in outboards on the back and guess what when a squall is coming even they get caught and can’t out run it. And no it’s not a hurricane and it won’t last long but it’s enough when it hits you if your on a light boat over canvased because trying to outrun the oncoming squall it’s enough to get scary. And then there is comfort. Even when there is no storm near you the swell from a storm hundreds of miles away can make for a uncomfortable ride in a boat designed to go fast vs a heavy displacement boat that just pushes threw waves and Has the tonnage not to get knock around. So much of this article screams weekend coastal sailing as even a week on anchor all that work to smooth your rudder will be canceled out by bottom growth todays antifoul paints don’t work as good as the older but far more toxic formulas so even the most meticulously cleaned cruising boat picks up growth ya you can dive and clean it regularly but I often it’s like Sisyphus pushing that rock up the hill. And besides if your sailing on a fullkeel with a keel hung rudder most of this is mute. yes a clean smooth bottom makes a difference on any boat but it’s the full keel and its tendency to track straight the over all weight and momentom of the boat it’s not fast and never will be but they can maintain their hull speed and track a comfortable ride threw chop and be unaffected by the swell. I’ll take a old full keel boat with a protected rudder I know is very unlikely to ever hit something to bend it or loose my rudder ever over a spade rudder or even worse duel rudders both hung exposed with a long but thin bolted on keel that if you hit a coral head means a haul out to inspect it as it more then likely cause a lot of expensive damage. And if not fixed right could lead to a future disaster (Cheeki Rafiki).

As interesting as the article reads, I wonder how it helps a prospective buyer of a used boat. Pictures will not do, and neither will taking several boats out of the water to examine them; it’s too expensive. It would be more helpful to indicate which boat manufacturers have the type of rudder the author recommends. After all, the buyer usually cannot be expected to change a rudder prior to buying it; it is also expensive. By the way, these types of very sophisticated articles are seen when it comes to hulls, keels, or rigging but without identifying the boats that carry the wrong equipment. If a specific rudder or keel configuration is not the proper one for efficient sailing, the author ought to state which boats carry the proper ones so that the buyer will concentrate on the whole (the boat) rather than the part.

I was describing the opportunity to improve the existing rudder. As I think back, I have modified the rudder of every boat I have owned in order to improve efficiency. The first two got small changes in balance and improved trailing edge sharpness. On the third I tightened the the hull clearance and changed the section. On my current boat I adding an anti-ventilation fence to improve high speed handling. https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2ZGPzKdj_tE/WyF9G2mHtLI/AAAAAAAAOwE/r6zgQEr4vkcDB4ciMLcgboFdazDAseDBgCLcBGAs/s1600/ian%2Brudder%2Bfence.jpg None of these tasks was overly difficult, and none was undertaken until I had sailed the boat for a season and learned what balance she liked and noted her habits.

For me, I buy a boat based on reputation, a test sail, and in most cases, a survey. As you imply, it is the whole boat you are buying. Does it have good bones? Do you feel happy at the helm? Then comes the fine tuning. I’ve been told that I sell a boat when I run out of things to tweak.

wow, so now case reports/medical reports/evidence don’t count as “evidence”, but certain remedies, even if they are cited in medical journals but do not work in the real world, count as evidence to you?? Maybe we need to redefine evidence based on your philosophies.Anyway, i’ve wasted enough time here. goodbye.

Weight 2.5 tonnes

Do you have any articles on the ideal cross section shape for an outboard rudder mounted 50mm from the transom vertically The yacht is a 26 ft trailer sailer weight 2.5 tonnes

The most common choice would be NACA 0012. http://airfoiltools.com/airfoil/details?airfoil=n0012-il

There are many ways to build a rudder, including laminated solid rot-resistant wood and fiber glass covered foam with a metal armature core. For the DIY, laminated wood is probably the most practical.

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Cruising catamaran rudders: lifting or fixed?

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For lifting rudders

By Jay Nolan, Corsair and Seawind European sales and marketing director

Seawind Group, which owns both the Seawind Catamarans and Corsair trimaran brands, has been using both lifting rudders and lifting daggerboards for many years and at least 2500 boats have been launched featuring the combination.  It suits both brands:  the performance advantages offered by high-aspect foils make them perfectly suited to high-performance Corsair trimarans.  And this is backed up by the market – Corsair is the market share leader in trimarans worldwide and voters made the Corsair 760 the Multihull of the Year in her category in 2018.  But it is also a great fit with Seawind catamarans, which are designed to deliver cruising comfort, safety and performance.  Seawind views speed as part of the safety equation:  it’s important to see the weather forecast, but less helpful if you’re too slow to do anything about it.  But it’s not only about performance.  

How do they work?

Seawind and Corsair rudders are housed in a cassette, as seen in the picture here. This allows for easy lifting and convenient maintenance.  And of course the system is a natural fit with high-aspect performance rudders, which are easy to lift and handle due to the narrow profile.  For performance sailors, this allow for easy removal to prevent biological growth.  Daggerboards have a matching frictionless cassette which is designed more toward reducing daggerboard banging.  Daggerboards are always operated via a dedicated manual winch and tackle to reduce the likelihood of encountering a situation where they can’t be raised – a daggerboard stuck in the down position is highly dangerous as it may prevent entering a safe port. 

Here lies the first big and often overlooked advantage – the rudders are sacrificial.  In other words, when impacted, the Seawind or Corsair rudder should break before the cassette, and the cassette should break before the steering system.  This means that offshore cruisers can bring an extra rudder along and in the case of a breakage, dispose of the remains of the old rudder and replace with a new one in a matter of seconds, without needing to address the cassette or steering system.  When racing, a broken rudder does not mean the end of the regatta.  This means the breakage load for the boards is an important, and carefully calculated equation.  The picture here shows the Seawind 1190 Sport daggerboards in flex and strength destructive testing.

But they’re not cheap

In order to meet that crucial strength and flex requirement all rudders and daggerboards on our boats larger than 24’ (7.6 metres) are made from Epoxy, Carbon and H200 foam cores.  So they’re not cheap.  But being built in-house means that we can produce them on a large scale, and in fact spares are always kept in stock and ready to ship out anywhere in the world when required by a customer.  It also means that they are relatively light.  This has obvious ...

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Aqua Cat 14 Catamaran

The larger version of one of the world's most popular one design catamarans brings you performance, simplicity and weight carrying capabilities not offered in other catamarans this size. Featuring wide, flat bottom hulls with turned up bows and a small keel skeg, the pontoon design is unequaled in weight carrying capacity and planing speed. The small keels have replaced the daggerboards used on the smaller Aqua Cat and allow for easy beaching thru the surf. Designed for ocean sailing or inland lakes this cat has it all. The Aqua Cat 14 is ideal for four large adults or where capabilities to support 1,000 lbs. are needed.

The boomless sail rig supported by the tubular "a" frame provides simplicity and safety not found in traditional wire shroud designs. One sheetline and a simple tiller arrangement result in sailing simplicity, fun and excitement. Weighing in at 230 lbs. and with a 6-1/2 foot beam, it can easily be car topped or trailered to your favorite spot on the beach. Constructed of hand laid fiberglass, anodized aluminum tubing and stainless steel fasteners, maintenance is at a minimum. The rudder system is durable all aluminum construction with gudgeons through bolted to aluminum plates inside the hull and features wide performance designed aluminum blades. Positive foam flotation in each hull, plus the added feature of the mast flotation ball provide a measure of confidence and safety.

Standard features include spring loaded kick up rudders, 105 sq. ft. Dacron two colored sail, a 360 quick release cleat and rudder lift systems. Available with white hulls with red side stripes and four sail combinations, the Aqua Cat offers a performance fun package not to be missed. Experience the Aqua Cat feeling.

RESORT SPECIAL VERSION OF AQUA CAT 14 CATAMARAN

Exceedingly popular as a resort rental craft, the Aqua Cat 14 has proven itself as an excellent investment. Its simplicity allows use by the most inexperienced and offers a stable, safe and fun filled package for the Hotel Guest.

American Sail manufactures a slightly slower version of this popular catamaran for use in resort locations where most sailors are novices. The resort special features a smaller sail (90 square foot), a shorter mast and eliminates the 360 main sheet cleat to require the sailor to hold the rope controlling the sail thus reducing capsize possibilities.

*AquaCats Temporarily Unavailable at this time due to supply chain issues.

Contact Us for Current Special Discounts and Freight Quote

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Seawind 1190

• Seawind 1160
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Perfect for Weekend Sails

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Seawind built upon the globally successful 1160 light to create this swifter model with maximized performance. The 1190 has the addition of high aspect dagger boards, retractable rudders, carbon fiber throughout, and a wardrobe of performance sails. This sports cruiser is hard to beat!

Retractable Dagger Boards and Removable Rudders

A significant feature is the enhanced upwind handling and shallow draft capability offered through lift-up carbon fiber dagger boards which are completely enclosed inside the housing so they don’t protrude out the top of the deck.

Light Weight, High Tech Construction

Widespread use of  carbon fiber in prominent load structural areas increases stiffness.  Carbon is used in the layup of the crossbeam and Targa bar to add stiffness and reduce weight.  Construction weight reduction of over 1300 lbs. (compared to the 1160).  Dynex synthetic lifelines and upgraded sail plan equates to less weight.

Reduced Drag & Shallow Draft

A new transom design with a retractable rudder allows for a very low draft, along with the option to raise the dagger boards, the 1190 can get into shallow waters that  very few boats half her size can navigate.

Seawind 1190 (11.9 METRES / 39ft )

STANDARD SPECIFICATIONS AND EQUIPMENT – OWNERS 3 Cabin Version  

The 1190 has been developed to meet the evolving needs of modern sailors. The 1190 offers a low maintenance high performing 39ft catamaran with enhanced upwind performance and shallow draft capability offered through retracting daggerboards. Perfect for weekend sails and a great base to begin your offshore cruising dream!

• EXTERIOR / LAMINATE:
• Finish: Full female moulded hulls & decks, exterior gelcoat finish with molded-in non-slip surface on deck areas
• Hull Laminate: Infused polyester resin laminate with vinylester tie layer
• Hull Core Material: PVC closed cell foam core
• Deck Laminate: Vacuum formed polyester resin laminate
• Deck Core Material: PVC closed cell foam core
• General Laminate: Vacuum formed polyester resin laminate
• General Core Material: PVC closed cell foam core
• Laminate specifications are certified to International CE standards
• MAST/BOOM/SAILS:
• Clear anodized aluminium mast and boom. Single Spreader, 7/8 rig
• Standing Rigging :

– Forestay 3/8 (10mm) 1 x 19 Dieform wire.

–  Sidestays 3/8 (10mm) 1 x 19 Dieform wire

–  Diamonds 5/16 (8mm) 1 x 19 Stainless Steel wire

– Main halyard:  12 mm Spectra rope : Heavy duty shackle

– Jib halyard:  8 mm Spectra rope. Heavy duty shackle

– Topping lift:  8 mm rope, Heavy duty shackle

– Boom outhaul: 10mm Spectra

• Single line reefing, run to helm. Three reefing points with 2 reef lines

– Reef 1 & 3: 10mm rope. Leech/Clew blocks and snap shackle

– Reef 2: 10mm rope. Heavy duty shackle

– Main sheet: 10mm rope

– Main traveller: 8mm rope

– Jib sheet: 10mm rope

• All halyards, reefing lines to be lead back to cockpit through turning blocks, rope clutches
• Fully battened mainsail. Triple stitched reinforced construction. Leach adjustable batten end caps. Fibreglass sail battens
• Mainsail cover with integrated lazy jack system.
• Self-tacking headsail, curved headsail traveller track with end stops. With single line control sheet to cockpit.
• DECK EQUIPMENT:
• Aluminium Hatches & portholes (9 in total)

– 4 x Forward Hatches 470mm x 470mm

– 2 x Mid cabin hatches 470mm x 470mm

– 1 x Port Bathroom window hatch 507mm x 377mm

– 1 x Galley window hatch 507mm x 377mm

– 1 x Aft Cabin window hatch 507mm x 377mm

• Fibreglass Deck Hatches:

– 5 x Forward anchor & storage hatches

– 2 x Cockpit storage hatches

• 6 x Docking cleats. Each side : bow, stern & amidships
• 6 x Safety handles around cockpit
• 1 x Heavy duty mooring cleat on forward walkway
• Ventilation: 2 x forward cabin hatch vents
• Mast base turning blocks. All halyards & sail controls to cockpit
• 9x Rope clutches
• Sheet winches : 1 x 40ST – 2 speed self tailing, 2 x 50ST – 2 speed self tailing
• Stanchions/Rails: High quality stanchions, bow rails and stern rails with 3 life-lines.  With700mm high lifelines to meet CE requirements
• 2 x transom access gates with pelican hook releases
• 2 x side access gates with pelican hook releases
• Aft swim ladder: folding stainless aft swim ladder
• FORWARD BEAM, CATWALK AND TRAMPOLINES:
• Carbon reinforced fwd beam
• Pelican striker and adjustable cable
• 1 x Mooring plate above foredeck
• 2 x Anchor roller under deck. Permanent stowage position for 45lb Plough (CQR/Delta type) anchor (cheeks 75mm high)
• Catwalk in PVC foam-sandwich fibreglass
• Light weight plastic coated open netted trampolines
• AFT BEAM AND DECK:
• Targa Bar with curved mainsheet track and continuous line traveler control system
• Stainless steel framed slatted seats behind aft beam
• Full width hard top over cockpit
• STEERING SYSTEM:
• Twin helm stations
• 2 X 32” lightweight composite steering wheels
• Both wheels independently linked to steering system. – system offers back-up redundancy
• Retractable dagger boards below deck height when retracted
• Lifting, transom hung rudders
• INTERIOR FINISH:
• Furniture and cabin sides gloss gelcoat finish
• Cabin top lined with light weight internally molded gelcoat liner
• Floors: synthetic timber flooring
• Lightweight cupboard doors and trimmings
• Lightweight handcrafted saloon table
• Upholstered settee
• Lightweight handcrafted coffee table
• Forward aluminium opening windows
• Saloon side windows in 8mm toughened glass
• Tri folding cockpit doors
• Removable low profile, helm hatches
• Spacious galley with coordinated Polystone counter surfaces
• Three (3) burner LPG stove, stainless steel pot holders. Flame failure device to shut off LPG immediately in event of flame going out
• Double bowl stainless steel sink
• Pressure fresh water system
• Refrigerator: Front opening upright fridge 130 litres
• Under bench storage
• LPG solenoid control in galley
• SLEEPING CABINS:
• Light weight PVC foam cored doors on all private cabins
• Port & Starboard fwd cabins : Each queen sized bed (2050mm x 1540mm)
• Aft Starboard cabin : Double bed (1990mm x 1230mm)
• Mattresses 150mm ( 6” ) foam upholstered
• Cabins lined
• 12volt LED lighting
• Storage/Cupboards
• Polished light weight PVC foam cored door
• Manual toilet. Discharge via holding tank
• Holding tank built in. Discharge pump out by shore station or directly overboard 130L
• Pipes, skin fittings and sea-cocks are easily accessible and to meet survey requirements
• Vanity basin with pressure water
• Separate shower stall with wall mounted shower head & mixer tap
• Electric shower bilge pump with direct overboard discharge
• Large quantity cupboards / shelves to very high quality
• LIGHTING/ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:
• High quality DC electrical switch panel with circuit breakers, LED indicator lights and voltage display
• Marine grade tinned electrical wiring with extensive use of heat sealed connectors
• Batteries x 2 comprising House System (270 amp hrs). One engine cranking battery – 130 amp hr heavy duty battery
• 230amp heavy duty isolation switch
• 12V lighting : Numerous 12V interior lamps and courtesy lights throughout including recessed lights in cockpit
• 4 x 12V Outlets
• CE approved navigation lights. Port & Starboard mounted on bow rails
• Deck floodlight mounted on spreaders
• Mast head anchor / riding light.
• PUMBING / FRESH WATER TANKS:
• Pressure water system with water to galley and bathroom
• Fresh water tank: 700 litres( 185gallons) rotomoulded. Remote deck filler
• Electric fresh water pump
• Electric bilge pumps (2) with controls integral with master battery switch panel
• Manual bilge pumps (2) in each hull
• Marelon through-hull fittings to CE/ISO standard
• Manual toilet in head
• 1 x LPG bottle – 4.5kg
• Fresh water tank gauge
• Twin lightweight Honda 20hp 20” engines. Mounted under each helm seat at each steering station
• 5” leg extensions added to engines to reduce cavitation
• Remote electric key start with electric tilt fitted
• Dual engine controls at port helm station
• 270l fuel tank mounted in external locker fwd of mast
• NAVIGATION:
• Twin steering compasses
• ANCHORING / MOORING:
• Primary anchor is 45 lb CQR anchor type with 55 mtrs x 8mm short link galvanised chain and 40 mtrsx 16mm triple braid anchor warp
• Primary anchor is stored in a specially designed anchor roller under the forward beam
• 3 x PVC Inflatable Fenders
• 3 x Mooring lines (each 15 metres x 14mm)
• ANTIFOULING / STRIPING:
• Epoxy barrier coat plus 2 coats of high quality black antifouling bottom paint
• Seawind 1190 decal on each hull and stern

DISCLAIMER : The specifications above may change at Seawind Catamaran’s discretion.

Specifications

Overall Length

39 ft / 11.9 m

Waterline Length

37 ft / 11.3 m

21’4″ / 6.5 m

1’11” / .6 m

Displacement

15,620 lbs / 6,600 kg

Power Tilt Outboards

2 x 20 hp Honda

71 US gal / 269 litres

Fresh Water

185 US gal / 700 litres

Steering Twin Helms

Cable Steering

Underwing Clearance

2’4″ / 0.73 m

635 sq ft / 59 sq m

258 sq ft / 24 sq m

Screecher (optional)

603 sq ft / 56 sq m

Spinnaker (optional)

1,066 sq ft / 99 sq m

Above specifications are estimates provided by the manufacturer.  Actual specifications may vary depending on options chosen.

Contact Us for Pricing & Availability

Contact us for detailed info about the Seawind 1190

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#144 ‘Let's Go Let's Go’ | 2019 Nautitech 40 Open

Sicily, it-rg, it.

#144 ‘Let's Go Let's Go’ | Nautitech 40 Open 39.3ft

Us $460,526.

This beautifully-presented 2019 Nautitech 40 Open purchased in 2023 by the current owner and has lived on her since. The 4 cabin layout offers ultimate flexibility of interior and exterior space. The port hull houses 2 large double cabins with a shared bathroom and this is mirrored over on the starboard hull as well. All 4 cabins have ample storage space and the privacy of separate living areas. 

The saloon and galley of this Nautitech 40 Open is well equipped for life aboard, the seating area/ nav station provides both a sociable area for meals and an ideal location to sit when underway. With great visibility of the front of the boat and a B&G plotter and the VHF for the ideal interior watch position.

Including 7” Zeus plotters at each helm and the chart table, B&G autopilot and Halo Radar. Alongside the 4 x 430W solar panels, 2000W Victron Phonenix prue-sine inverter and 120L Rainman water maker she is truly ready for life onboard.

To take advantage of the amazing performance Nautitech Catamarans are known for, the sail inventory includes a nearly new helix furling gennaker, mainsail and self-tacking jib. Making fun, fast sailing easy and enjoyable for everyone on board. 

Currently afloat in Ragusa, Sicily this Nautitech 40 ‘Let's Go Let's Go’ will be available for new adventures in October 2024. For more information or to arrange a viewing, please contact Key Yachting

Specifications

• Length: 39ft
• Builder: Nautitech Catamarans
• Beam: 22' 8"
• Draft: 4' 5"
• Hull: Fiberglass
• Status: Active

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• Designer: Marc Lombard
• Keel: Fin Keel

MEASUREMENTS

• Length Overall: 39.3 ft
• Max Draft: 4' 5"
• Beam Measure: 22' 8"
• Total Power: 80
• Engine Brand: Volvo
• Year Built: 2019
• Engine Model: D2-40
• Engine Type: Inboard
• Engine/Fuel Type: Diesel
• Engine Hours: 2600
• Engine Power: 40 hp
• Fresh Water Tanks: 2 (215 Gallons)
• Fuel Tanks: 2 (215 Gallons)

Accommodations

• Number of cabins: 4
• Number of heads: 2

Construction

• GRP hull and superstructure in white
• Molded non-skid deck
• Large plexi-glass windscreen with 2x large opening hatches
• 6 hull windows with opening ports
• Spade rudders on stainless steel stock
• 2x  40hp Volvo engines with sail drives 
• Flexifold 3 blade folding propellors 
• 2 x 220L water tanks, 2 x 215L fuel tanks
• Grey wrap coach roof
• International Micron Extra double layer antifouling
• Dual helms with sun shades
• 2x Large ‘trampoline’ bow nets
• Bowsprit lowering system

Accommodation

• 4 cabin layout
• Saloon with seating area/ nav station
• Galley with 115L 12V fridge, 1.5 sink with covers, 3 burner hob and oven
• Blinds for cabin hull windows 
• 2 double guest cabins to starboard
• 2 double guest cabins to port
• shared shower and heads in starboard hull
• shared shower and heads in port hull
• Mosquito screens for all hatches on deck
• Fabric covered bed frame
• 12v fans in all cabins
• AC plugs in cockpit
• LED reading lights in cabins
• 1 x 12V front loading fridge in galley
• Eno 3-burner cooker/oven/grill
• Quick 40L Boiler
• 2x Jabsco Manual flush toilets
• LED interior strip lights with dimmers
• Hot/cold pressure water system
• 1 x Isothem fridge in cockpit
• Luxury Cockpit & Sunbathing cushions
• GRP cockpit table 
• 2x folding directors chairs
• Dedicated liferaft locker in cockpit
• Cockpit shower on aft steps (hot and cold)
• Full cockpit enclosure with doors
• 2x forward pulpits with seats in teak
• Fully-battened Mainsail (Incidence, 2019, Dacron)
• Furling Jib (Incidence, 2019, Dacron)
• Helix Furling Gennaker (North Sails, 2024)

Spars, Rigging and Deck Gear

• Aluminium mast and boom with two sets of spreaders
• 3x reef lines
• Mainsheet on traveller track mounted aft coach roof
• 2 x Lewmar ST45 two speed primary winches at cockpit
• 1 x Lewmar Evo Race 45 electronic mainsheet winch at cockpit
• 1 x Lewmar Evo Race 45 two speed winch at cockpit
• 1 x Lewmar Evo Race 45 halyard winch at mast
• 3x clutches at aft beam starboard for mainsheet and main sheet traveller control line
• 8 x spinlock clutches
• Lewmar performance blocks + pulleys
• Jib sheet led to starboard helm
• Furling control line led to port helm
• Lazy jack and lazy-bag system
• Stainless steel mooring cleats
• Facnor LS180 furler
• The self-tacking jib is mounted
• Top-down furling gennaker gear with facnor FX+4500 furler unit

Electronics

Electrical systems

• 12/220V including shore power mains
• 2x 200Ah Victron smart Li domestic batteries (2023)
• 2 x 75Ah AGM engine batteries
• Victron Phoenix 12/50 battery charger for domestic
• Victron Bluepower 30A battery charger for engines
• 4x 430w Solar panels (sunpower – 2023)
• 4 x MPPT 100/30 Victron charge controllers (2023)
• 2000w Victron phoenix pure-sine inverter
• Victron lynx Smart BMS system (2023)
• Pack USB plugs (1 double plug per cabin)
• Rainman High output auto-flush Watermaker (120L)
• Upgraded B&G Zeus Series 3 fully integrated navigation system with – 
• 2 x 7″ MFD’s at cockpit & 1 x 9″ in saloon
• B&G Halo Radar
• B&G Depth/Speed/Wind transducer
• 2 x B&G Multi display units (port/starboard)
• B&G Autopilot
• 1 x B&G autopilot controls (can also be controlled from all Zeus screens)
• NAIS-500 AIS with splitter + N2K kit
• Em-Track B-923 AIS transmitter
• B&G V50 DSC VHF main unit
• B&G wireless remote set for VHF
• Plastimo steering compass on both helms
• Handheld Sportnav SPO-36M VHF
• Garmin Fusion surround sound system
• Garmin Fusion radio/stereo/ipod/bluetooth

Safety Gear

• TransOcean 6-man life raft (in service)
• Ocean Signal EPIRB3 PRO CAT2 (2023)
• Automatic/Manual bilge pumps
• Radar reflector
• 1x Life ring
• 18M orange floating line
• Offshore safety flares kit
• Fire blanket
• Manual fire extinguishers
• Bosuns chair
• Upgraded 25KG Rocna anchor with 90m Italian chain and warp (2024)
• Spare Danforth anchor with warp
• Highfield 310 Rib tender with centre console
• 15HP Suzuki Outboard
• 2M aluminium folding Passarella
• Swimming ladder
• Luxury cockpit & Sunbathing cushions
• Full cockpit enclosure 
• Hot/cold wash down shower at cockpit
• Mooring lines
• 2 x 40M yellow floating mooring lines
• Sundry deck ware, mooring lines etc.
• Various boat spare parts

Disclaimer This company, acting as brokers on behalf of the selling owner, who is a private individual. Offers the details of this vessel in good faith but cannot guarantee or warrant the accuracy of this information nor warrant the condition of the vessel. A buyer should instruct his agents, or his surveyors, to investigate such details as the buyer desires validated. This vessel is offered subject to prior sale, price change, or withdrawal without notice.

The Multihull Company is pleased to assist you in the purchase of this vessel though the vessel may be listed with another brokerage company.

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Yachts by Sunreef Yachts

Yachts sale Sunreef Yachts

CHE is unique fully custom built aluminium sailing catamaran, having the length of 35m - she is the second largest catamaran in the world. She really sails and has limitless range, she boasts graceful exterior lines and spacious guest areas inside and outside.