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Electric Sailboat Motor: Range, Cost, Best Kits for Conversion

Today, owning a completely green sailboat has been made possible with electric sailboat motors.

Imagine cruising with the silence of an electric sailboat motor and the ease of use with a simple press on the start button. What’s better is there are no exhaust fumes at all with significantly less maintenance.

It’s so appealing that a lot of sailing liveaboards have made their electric sailboat motor conversion.

However, some sailors are still on the fence, worrying about the range and price of the electric sailboat motor.

If you are one of them, you are in the right place!

This post will guide you through every aspect you need to know about electric sailboat motors to help you make an informed decision.

Besides, you will get professional insights on how to make the electric sailboat motor conversion for your own boat and learn the best electric sailboat motors (with honest reviews).

Table of contents:

• Electric Sailboat Motors: Confusion Explained

Electric Sailboat Motor or Combustion Motor

• Electric Yacht Motor Conversion: Two Solutions
• How to Size an Electric Sailboat Motor

Best Electric Sailboat Motors (with Reviews)

Electric Sailboat Motor: Confusion Explained

Can you go cruising with an electric sailboat motor? Can you put an electric motor on a sailboat? Are there any limitations?

Whether electric sailboat motors are a good fit for your boat is not a YES or NO question. Here we will explain your top worries with statistics and facts. That way, you can make a wise decision according to your situation.

You may hear some complaints about the batteries and range of the electric propulsion.

However, their experience may not suit electric sailboat motors.

In fact, even small electric engines work pretty well in many sailboats. That’s because most of the time, the wind can power the boat, and the motor is just used for docking or in rare times when there is no wind.

Therefore, it makes more sense to learn electric sailboat motor performance in real-world applications.

Here is a test report of a 3 HP electric sailboat motor on an RS21 racing sailboat:

As you can see, the small electric sailboat motor can run at 5.5 mph top speed for one hour continuously.

And there is a big difference in terms of range vs speed for electric sailboat motors:

If you lower the speed, the range and runtime can be greatly extended. The slower you go, the further you’ll get. For example, if you cut your speed in half, the electric sailboat motor can last 7 hours and go 20 miles within one charge.

That’s pretty sufficient if you use the electric yacht motor mostly for docking or as an auxiliary engine.

Faster top speed (and more range) is available with higher power electric sailboat motors depending on your specific requirements. Contact a specialist to design your electric sailboat motor solutions.

Also, don’t forget to get the electric sailboat motor with regeneration (See recommendations below).

That’s to say, when there is a lot of wind and you’re moving rapidly via your sails, they regenerate and store electric power on the batteries to keep you moving at other times. Solar recharging is also a plus.

Essentially, the range depends on how many batteries you have, so it’s not a limitation of electric sailboat motors but energy and batteries.

If you are still worried, you can offset this by getting a diesel generator, which is more efficient than a diesel engine. And it is a range extender when you need it, but for 90% of your motoring that you don’t need the range, you can rely on the electric sailboat motor.

Some of you might be concerned about the extra weight of the batteries.

In fact, an electric sailboat motor with lithium batteries weighs less than a diesel engine, particularly if you include the fuel weight.

If you want a lightweight electric sailboat motor solution, make sure you get one with LiFePO4 batteries . Compared with other marine batteries, they are more compact in design with much less weight and higher energy density.

Some more advanced electric motors for small sailboats (such as Spirit 1.0 Evo) feature an integrated lightweight battery. So you don’t need to worry about the complex wiring to hook it up or extra space to store the battery.

This is a huge plus if you want to use the electric sailboat motor on a tender or dinghy.

Here is also a chart that collects the weight of some popular electric sailboat motors for your reference:

For many people, another big problem with electric sailboat motors is the cost.

It’s true that a gasoline outboard with similar power is a lot cheaper to buy. However, the electric sailboat motor eventually wins in long-term operating cost. That’s especially the case if you are going to do a lot of motoring.

Electric sailboat motors save on fuel and maintenance costs, which can build up to a large amount over time.

Here is a chart that compares the cost of a 3HP electric sailboat motor (coming with a built-in battery) with its combustion counterpart:

That’s to say, you will cover the price difference for electric yacht motors eventually as long as you use it long enough. Click to check the details of the calculation .

What makes the electric sailboat motor even more worthwhile is it saves you a lot of hassles, especially for sailors who only use the engine in and out of the harbor. Dealing with the maintenance of the gas outboard for a 10 minute motor out of and into the harbor is disproportionate and painful.

*The higher horsepower electric sailboat motor may be different in terms of the cost calculation. Check out the outboard motor pricelist by HP for more information.

As you may have already noticed, electric propulsion has already been widely used in the marine industry:

It’s quiet while motoring, clean to handle, environmentally friendly, with less maintenance and operation costs.

The electric sailboat motors are easier to use with dramatically fewer moving parts to break and no worries about being a diesel mechanic to deal with the hard pulling start. You can have it always on, so it is ready whenever you need it.

And it makes even more sense in sailing applications:

You don’t really need to motor much if your plan is to actually sail. If you are completely becalmed, you will probably just need to motor at 2 knots to keep making way, which is easy for electric sailboat motors.

If you mostly use the motor to get into and out of the harbor, the electric sailboat motor also works great for you.

You can always charge up at the dock, motor out of the marina (or even motor to your sailing area or race start), then hoist the sails and when you’re through, the batteries are charged again.

The electric sailboat motor is also useful as a backup (kicker) motor in case your system goes down. That’s why you can see people pushing a lot of big boats with small electric motors. (Click to learn more information about kicker motors .)

Personally, it’s really nice to have an electric auxiliary in the boat – no smelly, messy diesel and motor oil to deal with, a much simpler system with less maintenance, and much, much quieter operation.

However, powerboats tend to have much higher requirements in terms of both power output and runtime. In that case, an electric sailboat motor can be hard to satisfy your needs.

How Do You Size an Electric Motor for a Sailboat?

As a rule of thumb, you will need approximately 1 HP per 550 lb of the displacement of your boat.

Generally speaking, a 3 HP electric sailboat motor can push a sailboat up to 25 ft and a 9.9 HP motor is sufficient for a 30 ft sailboat to motor at a satisfying speed.

However, bear in mind the horsepower you need always depends on your needs and applications.

It’s better to check the data from real-world tests to decide whether the electric sailboat motor is suitable for your specific needs.

For example, the 9.9 HP electric sailboat motor Navy 6.0 allows you to go at 6.9 mph (11.1 kph) on a 30 ft sailboat, and the range can be extended to 46.4 miles if you decrease your speed to 2.9 mph (4.6 kph).

Click to see more test reports with other electric motor and sailboat combinations, and find the electric sailboat motor that suits you best.

If you are still not sure about the size of the electric sailboat motor for you, feel free to leave us a comment and we will get back to you ASAP with professional suggestions.

Electric Sailboat Motor Conversion

Basically, there are two ways for you to convert your sailboat to a clean and quiet electric drive system:

You can either convert your current vessel to electric or buy an engineless yacht and install an electric sailboat motor on your own.

#1. Repower Your Sailboat with Electric Motor

If you decide to replace the diesel engine with an electric motor, you will need to do a lot of preparations:

The DIY approach requires an electric sailboat motor kit (including motor and controller), batteries, a good level of mechanical ability and basic electrical knowledge, as well as some common tools such as a voltmeter.

You will need to take the old engine out for the new electric sailboat motor installation. It’s not an easy task that involves removing the engine mounts and the drive shaft (dealing with the numerous hoses and cables), taking out the engine, exhaust system, fuel tank, and its attendant tubes, etc.

Remember to balance the boat to avoid listing during the electric sailboat motor conversion.

Then in with the new electric sailboat motor. The installation process can be straightforward if you choose the electric sailboat motor kit wisely (See steps below). Furthermore, you can set up solar charging for your electric sailboat motor with solar panels and charger.

Many sailors have recorded their electric sailboat motor conversion process and experience. Be sure to check them out to get some inspiration. For example, Ed Phillips has documented everything which can serve as a guide for newbies to get started.

Mind you there can be a whole heap that can go wrong in designing and maintaining the electric sailboat motor systems. You really need to be totally on top of it if you want decent performance or reliability.

If you are not that technically inclined, it’s better to talk to a specialist first to discuss your plan for a smooth electric sailboat motor conversion.

#2. Install an Electric Motor in a Sailboat

If you own an enginless sailboat, the electric sailboat motor conversion is much easier for you.

All you need to do is to find a reliable electric sailboat motor and install it in simple steps. The whole process can be easily done, even for beginners. Here we take the popular 6 HP electric sailboat motor Navy 3.0 as an example to show you the installation process:

• Step 1 : Rotate the clamps or use the screws to fix the outboard onto the sailboat.
• Step 2: Mount the steering system in the proper position.
• Step 3: Install the tiller on the electric sailboat motor.
• Step 4: Connect the batteries to the electric sailboat motor system.

Click to check the video tutorial that guides you through each step of the installation.

If you are worried about aesthetic issues and want higher horsepower options, an electric inboard motor can be a better suit for your sailboat. If you prefer an inboard motor for your sailboat, contact our OEM team to get an electric propulsion solution tailored to your needs.

Note : You might find some electric trolling motors rated by #s of thrust on the market. Actually, those electric trolling motors for sailboats can only provide limited speed and range. If you are heading into the wind, the trolling motors for sailboats are definitely not an ideal solution.

Once you’ve evaluated if electric sailboat motors are right for you, there are a lot of options for electric systems.

Here are some popular electric sailboat motors with positive reviews from customers worldwide. Fast charger is available for all the models recommended to reduce your charging stress.

#1. 3 HP Spirit 1.0 Evo

If you are looking for an electric motor for a small sailboat, be sure to check out the ePropulsion Spirit 1.0 Evo. It’s suitable for large daysailers or small cruising sailboats under 25 ft.

With the Spirit 1.0 Evo electric sailboat motor, you can go 5.5 mph (8.8 kph) at top speed on the 21 ft RS21 sailing boat, or troll for 20 hours continuously at 2.2 mph (3.5 kph) according to our test .

This electric sailboat motor with regeneration allows you to recover energy from the prop while under sail. It will start to generate power automatically when the sailing speed reaches 2 knots.

As an electric auxiliary sailboat motor, it can also be easily installed on your tender boats or yacht dinghies since it’s portable and easy to transport (with a lightweight integrated battery).

Features You Will Love:

• Come with the industry-first hydrogeneration capability
• Direct-drive technology makes it maintenance-free
• Portable with a 1276Wh large integrated lithium battery for long range
• Safety wristband keeps you safe in case of MOB
• Digital operation keeps you informed of the battery status

Spirit 1.0 Evo Electric Sailboat Motor Reviews:

“Great weekend with my 17′ sailboat powered by the Spirit Evo. This is great. Quiet and reliable. Went at 3/4 throttle for about 1.5hrs when taking it back to boat ramp.” – Robert Taylor

“Very happy with our Spirit Plus. Pushing our Kolibri 560 a 750 Kg sailboat, with ease. Doing about 5.8 km/h at 500W.” – Frank van Asten

#2. 6HP/9.9 HP Navy Evo Series

If you want a little more juice on the electric sailboat motor, check out the ePropulsion Navy Series. It offers 6 HP and 9.9 HP models for your selection and it provides sufficient power for sailboats up to 30 ft.

According to our test , the 6 HP electric motor Navy 3.0 can push the Catalina 25 sailboat (25 ft) at 6 mph (9.6 kph) top speed, while the Olga 33 sailboat (33 ft) can go at 7.5 mph (12 kph) with the 9.9 HP Navy 6.0 motor.

The Navy series electric sailboat motor also comes with regeneration features which can be recharged with hydrogeneration, wind turbine, and solar panel.

• Four controls to fit your sailboat installation and your boating style
• Accompany LiFePO4 batteries (need separate purchase) are more energy efficient
• Digital display offers real-time monitoring of the power and battery
• Magnetic kill switch and safety wristband keep you safe on the boat
• Electric start saves you trouble pulling the cord to start

Navy Series Electric Sailboat Motor Reviews:

“I have a Navy 3.0 with E80 on a Catalina 25 sailboat. It is working well. Currently I am using about 4% battery to go in/out of the marina by boat.” – Aaron Young

“Just finished my 8 weeks sailing journey in the Baltic Sea. The two Navy 3 outboards provide enough power for my 33ft catamaran. The 400W solar panels provided enough energy for engines and all other energy consumed on board with 2-6 persons. The two Navy Batteries provide power for engines and all other on-board electric devices. I never had to use shore power, so totally self-sufficient electric system.” – Martin Hildebrand

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THE FACTS ABOUT ELECTRIC POWER, BATTERIES AND PROPULSION

Today's electric motor technology has already moved from

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Instant High Torque

Electric motors are in constant ‘stand by’ mode; you can engage the control lever at any time for instant forward or reverse propulsion.

Electric motors achieve instant torque with Electromotive Force while internal combustion engines need to build RPMs gradually by increasing piston firing frequency.

Hydro Generation

At sailing speeds over 6 knots Oceanvolt systems are able to generate significant power for recharging the battery bank by activating at the touch of a button.

Power regeneration increases exponentially with each additional knot of speed.

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Oceanvolt highly skilled technical team ensures proper installation and system-optimization.  Only the highest quality Li-Ion batteries are used - to ensure performance and safety.

For those interested in a hybrid solution, generators are a highly efficient way to extend range while at sea.

DC generators have the advantage of rapid recharging capability.

AC generators are, generally, smaller and even portable which means that the generator can be aboard only in situations where longer motoring might be required.

Battery recharging is accomplished with shore connection, hydro generation (an integrated part of all Oceanvolt systems) and/or solar panels.

In Hybrid solutions , a generator (either AC or DC) can be used to recharge batteries / extend motoring range.

Integrated components

It is essential that all system components are properly selected and installed.

Our team of highly skilled technicians ensure that all components are compatible and that system management software is optimized.

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The Promises and Pitfalls of an All-Electric Yacht

• By Tim Murphy
• Updated: November 8, 2021

This past October, I saw one of the most interesting exhibits in more than 500 new cruising sailboats I’ve reviewed over two decades. It was the Arcona 435Z, built in Sweden and introduced by Graham Balch of Green Yachts in San Francisco. Balch describes his business as “a new brokerage dedicated to the electric revolution on the water,” and it was the “Z” in the boat’s name, which stands for “zero emissions,” that made this boat so interesting. This was the first electric propulsion system—not hybrid but all-electric —I’d ever seen on a cruising sailboat.

Electric propulsion isn’t new. Since 1879, electric motors have propelled boats; a fleet of some four-dozen electric launches transported visitors around the 1893 Colombian Exposition in Chicago. But cruising sailboats are not launches, and the open sea is not a protected canal. When we’re using cruising boats as they’re meant to be used, they seldom end their day plugged into a shore-power outlet. Cruising boats comprise many devices —stove, refrigerator, freezer, windlass, winches, autopilot, radar, lights—whose power typically comes from a tank of fossil fuel. And today’s cruising sailors are accustomed to using diesel auxiliary power to motor through lulls or punch into headwinds and seas.

Starting about 15 years ago, we saw a wave of diesel-electric and hybrid propulsion systems on production and custom cruising boats ( see “Perpetuated Motion,” CW , March 2005 ). Both of those systems ultimately start with an onboard internal-combustion engine. A diesel-electric propulsion system relies on a running genset to directly power the electric motor that turns the propeller. A hybrid system relies on batteries to power the electric motor, plus an internal-combustion genset to recharge the batteries. One of the promises of a hybrid system is the ability to regenerate electrical power. Regeneration means using boatspeed under sail to turn the propeller, whose spinning shaft sends electrons from the electric motor back through an electronic controller to recharge the batteries. In such a system, the boat’s propeller is both an electrical load (when running under power) and a charging source (when sailing in regeneration mode).

The Arcona 435Z was different from both of these systems: It incorporates no onboard fossil-fuel engine at all. Instead, it has a bank of lithium batteries, several solar panels, and a proprietary propulsion leg that looks like a saildrive. “This boat,” Balch said, “has the very first production unit in the world of Oceanvolt’s newest electric propulsion system, called the ServoProp.”

For our sea trial, Balch was joined by Derek Rupe, CEO of Oceanvolt USA. “If you can sail the boat and you have some solar, you can go anywhere in the world, and you can make all your power underway while you go,” Rupe said. When we spoke in October 2020, he touted three high-profile sailors who were using the Oceanvolt electric propulsion system: Alex Thomson, for his Hugo Boss Open 60 Vendée Globe program; Jimmy Cornell, for his Elcano 500 expedition; and Riley Whitelum and Elayna Carausu, who had been teasing their new boat for months on their popular Sailing La Vagabonde YouTube channel.

The efficiency of Oceanvolt’s ServoProp and the regeneration from it is the promised game-changer in each of these boats. The ServoProp is a leg with a ­feathering propeller that can be set for optimal pitch in three modes: forward, reverse and regeneration.

“You don’t need fuel,” Rupe said. “You don’t need to dock; you can go anywhere you want to go and always have the power for living and propulsion.”

That’s the promise. But are there also pitfalls?

Innovation and Risk

Marine electric propulsion is an emerging technology. Compared with the mature and settled technology of diesel engines and lead-acid batteries, electric-propulsion systems—with their electronic controllers and lithium batteries—are in a stage of development best described as adolescent. Every sailor has his or her own tolerance for technical innovation. For the promise of fewer ­seconds per mile, grand-prix-racing sailors willingly trade a high risk of expensive damage to the sails, rig or the boat’s structure itself; cruising sailors, by contrast, tend to favor yearslong reliability in their equipment as they seek miles per day.

Folks who identify as early adopters take special joy in the first-wave discoveries of a new technology; if they’re clear-eyed about supporting an ongoing experiment, they see themselves as partners with the developers, accepting failures as opportunities for learning. Sailors motivated primarily by changing the trajectory of climate change might be especially willing to modify their behavior to limit their own output of greenhouse gases. Investing in any emerging technology asks you to start with a clear assessment of your own risk tolerance. We’ll return to this theme with one or two real-life examples.

The American Boat and Yacht Council, founded in 1954, sets recommended standards for systems installed on recreational boats. For decades, ABYC has published standards related to installations of diesel and gasoline engines, as well as electrical systems based around lead-acid batteries. By contrast, it was only three years ago that ABYC came out with its first electric-propulsion standard (revised July 2021). And only last year it published its first technical-information report on lithium batteries (a technical-information report is an early step toward a future standard). The takeaway is that if you need help servicing your diesel engine or electrical system built around lead-acid batteries, you can pull into any reasonable-size port and find competent technicians to help you. With electric propulsion and lithium batteries, that pool of skilled talent is significantly scarcer.

To say that a technology is mature simply means that we’ve learned to live with it, warts and all, but that it holds few remaining surprises. Certainly, diesel-propulsion and lead-acid-battery technologies each leave plenty of room for improvement. When a charge of fuel ignites in the combustion ­chamber of a diesel engine, some three-quarters of the energy is lost in heat and the mechanical inefficiencies of converting reciprocating motion to rotation. Lead-acid batteries become damaged if we routinely discharge more than half of their capacity. During charging, they’re slow to take the electrons we could deliver.

Lithium batteries are comparatively full of promise. Their power density is far greater than that of lead-acid batteries, meaning they’re much lighter for a given capacity. They’re capable of being deeply discharged, which means you can use far more of the bank’s capacity, not merely the first half. And they accept a charge much more quickly; compare that to several hours a day running an engine to keep the beers iced down.

But the pitfalls? Let’s start with ABYC TE-13, Lithium Ion Batteries. Some of its language is bracing. “Lithium ion batteries are unlike lead-acid batteries in two important respects,” the report says. “1) The electrolyte within most lithium ion batteries is flammable. 2) Under certain fault conditions, lithium ion batteries can enter a condition known as thermal runaway, which results in rapid internal heating. Once initiated, it is a self-perpetuating and exothermic reaction that can be difficult to halt.”

Thermal runaway? Difficult to halt? Self-perpetuating?

“Typically, the best approach is to remove heat as fast as possible, which is most effectively done by flooding the battery with water,” TE-13 continues, “although this may have serious consequences for the boat’s electrical systems, machinery, buoyancy, etc.”

If you were following the news in January 2013, you might remember the ­story of Japan Airlines Flight 008. Shortly after landing at Boston’s Logan Airport, a mechanic opened the aft ­electronic equipment bay of the Boeing 787-8 to find smoke and flames billowing from the auxiliary-power unit. The fire extinguisher he used didn’t put out the flames. Eventually Boston firefighters put out the fire with Halotron, but when removing the still-hissing batteries from the plane, one of the ­firefighters was burned through his ­professional protective gear.

Samsung Galaxy cellphones, MacBook Pro laptops, powered skateboards—in the past decade, these and other devices have been recalled after their lithium batteries burned up. In that period, several high-end custom boats were declared a total loss following failures from lithium batteries. In March 2021, a 78-foot Norwegian hybrid-powered tour boat, built in 2019 with a 790 kW capacity battery bank, experienced thermal runaway that kept firefighters on watch for several days after the crew safely abandoned the ship.

Yes, experts are learning a lot about how to mitigate the risks around lithium batteries. But we’re still on the learning curve.

ABYC’s TE-13 “System Design” section starts, “All lithium-ion battery ­systems should have a battery ­management system (BMS) installed to prevent damage to the battery and provide for battery shutoff if potentially dangerous conditions exist.” It defines a bank’s “safe operating envelope” according to such parameters as high- and low-voltage limits, charging and discharging temperature limits, and charging and ­discharging current limits.

Graham Balch takes these safety recommendations a step further: “To our knowledge, the BMS has to monitor at the cell level. With most batteries, the BMS monitors at the module level.” The difference? “Let’s say you have 24 cells inside the battery module, and three of them stop working. Well, the other 21 have to work harder to compensate for those three. And that’s where thermal events occur.”

Balch followed the story of the Norwegian tour boat this past spring. He believes that the battery installation in that case didn’t meet waterproofing standards: “The hypothesis is that due to water intrusion, there was reverse polarity in one or more of the cells, which is worse than cells simply not working. It means that they’re actively working against the other cells. But if the BMS is monitoring only at the module level, you wouldn’t know it.”

On the Green Yachts website, Graham lists five battery manufacturers whose BMS regimes monitor at the cell level. “If I were sailing on an electric boat, whether it be commercial or recreational, I would feel comfortable with having batteries from these five companies and no other,” he said.

The broader takeaway for today’s sailors is that lithium batteries bring their own sets of problems and solutions, which are different from those of conventional propulsion and power-supply technologies. A reasonably skilled sailor could be expected to change fuel filters or bleed a diesel engine if it shuts down in rough conditions. With lithium-ion batteries aboard, an operator needs to understand the causes and remedies of thermal runaway, and be ready to respond if the BMS shuts down the boat’s power.

Real-World Electric Cruising Boats

When we met Oceanvolt’s Derek Rupe a year ago, he and his wife had taken their all-electric boat to the Bahamas and back the previous season. Before that, he’d been installing electric-propulsion packages for six years on new Alerion 41s and other refit projects. “My real passion is on the technical side of things—installations, really getting that right. That’s half the picture. The technology is there, but it needs to be installed correctly.”

When talking to Rupe, I immediately encountered my first learning curve. I posed questions about the Oceanvolt system in amps and amp-hours; he responded in watts and kilowatt-hours. This was yet another example of the different mindset sailors of electric boats need to hold. Why? Because most cruising boats have just one or two electrical systems: DC and AC. The AC system might operate at 110 or 220 volts; the DC side might operate at 12 or 24 volts. On your own boat, that voltage is a given. From there we tend to think in terms of amps needed to power a load, and amp-hours of capacity in our battery banks. Going back to basics, the power formula tells us that power (watts) equals electrical potential (volts) times current (amps). If your boat’s electrical system is 12 volts and you know that your windlass is rated at 400 watts, it follows that the windlass is rated to draw 33 amps.

But an all-electric boat might comprise several systems at different voltages. A single battery bank might supply cabin lights at 12 volts DC; winches and windlasses at 24 volts DC; the propulsion motor at 48 volts DC; and an induction stove, microwave and television at 110 volts AC. A DC-to-DC power converter steps the voltage up or down, and an inverter changes DC to AC. Instead of translating through all those systems, the Oceanvolt monitor (and Derek Rupe) simply reports in watts coming in or going out of the bank.

“We keep all our thoughts in watts,” Rupe said. “Watts count in the AC induction. They count in the DC-to-DC converter. They count the solar in. They count the hydrogeneration in. And the ­power-management systems tracks it that way for shore-power in.

“On a boat like this, maybe I have 500 watts coming in the solar panels,” he continued. “So then I can think: ‘Well, my fridge is using 90 watts. My boat has an electric stove. When I cook a big meal, I can see that for every hour we cook, we lose about 10 to 12 minutes of our cruising range.’”

During his Bahamas cruising season, Rupe observed that on days that they were sailing, the combination of solar panels and hydroregeneration supplied all the power he and his wife needed. “When we weren’t sailing,” he said, “we found that we were losing 8 percent each day, in the difference from what the sun gave us to what we were using for the fridge, lights, charging our laptops, and all that stuff.”

Rupe’s solution? “Twice in Eleuthera and once outside Major’s, we went out and sailed laps for a couple of hours because the batteries were below 30 percent of capacity. It was good sailing, and the wind was coming over the shore, so we didn’t have any sea state. We did a couple of hot laps on nice beam reaches, and generated about 700 watts an hour.”

Of the three sailors Rupe touted in October 2020—Alex Thomson, Jimmy Cornell and the Sailing La Vagabonde couple—only Cornell can report back on his all-electric experiences with Oceanvolt. Alex Thomson ended his circumnavigation abruptly last November, just 20 days after the Vendée Globe start, when Hugo Boss collided with an object in the South Atlantic. And at press time in early fall 2021, Riley and Elayna had just recently announced the build of their new Rapido trimaran; keep an eye on their YouTube channel for more about their experiences with the Oceanvolt propulsion system.

As for Cornell—circumnavigator, World Cruising Routes author, creator of the transoceanic rally, and veteran of some 200,000 ocean miles—he suspended his planned Elcano 500 round-the-world expedition solely because of the Oceanvolt system in his new Outremer catamaran. His Aventura Zero Logs on the Cornell Sailing website, particularly the Electric Shock article posted on December 2, 2020, are essential reading for any sailor interested in sailing an electric boat. “Sailing around the world on an electric boat with zero emissions along the route of the first circumnavigation was such a tempting opportunity to do something meaningful and in tune with our concern for protecting the environment that my family agreed I should do it,” Cornell wrote. “What this passage has shown was that in spite of all our efforts to save energy, we were unable to regenerate sufficient electricity to cover consumption and top up the batteries.”

Cornell’s experience in that article is raw, and his tone in that moment bitterly disappointed. We recommend it as essential reading—not as a final rejection of the electric-boat concept or of Oceanvolt’s system, or even as an endorsement of Cornell’s own decision that the system didn’t work. I suspect that I may have arrived at the same conclusion. Yet given the same boat in the same conditions, one imagines that a new breed of sailor—a Graham Balch or a Derek Rupe—may have responded differently to the constraints imposed by an all-electric boat, as nearly every cruising sailor today habitually responds to the inconvenient constraints of diesel engines and lead-acid batteries.

“If you bring electric winches, electric heads and an induction stove, and then sail into a high-pressure system, you’ll set yourself up for failure,” Balch said. “You have to balance your power inputs and your power outputs.

“Sailing an electric boat is a return to the tradition of sailing that the crutch of a diesel engine has gotten us away from,” he added. “Magellan’s fleet got all the way around the world, and they didn’t have a diesel engine.”

Tim Murphy is a Cruising World editor-at-large and ­longtime Boat of the Year judge.

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What You Need to Know Before Buying an Electric Sailing Yacht or Sailboat

It’s no secret that we’re approaching, or have maybe even passed the moment in history where most buyers are considering buying an electric vehicle. The awkward early adopter phase is long gone, doubters few and far between, and every car manufacturer has at least some EV options, while others focus exclusively on electric and are experiencing massive growth. Mass adoption is here, the prices are falling, and infrastructure and legislature are hurrying to catch up.

All of this has left many people wondering why not bring sailing boats into the electric world? Sailing was never about motoring, never about engine speed – it is about that connection to nature, the serenity of the sea and the challenge. So why not get rid of the “dirty and loud” diesel engine, and simply exchange it for “clean and quiet” electric propulsion? Motor out of the marina or bay in silence, then use the sun, wind and waves to continue your journey.

Well – it turns out that like all good things in life, it’s not that simple, but it can be completely viable if approached correctly, and Elan and Oceanvolt have partnered-up to offer just that.

EARLY ADOPTER PHASE

Unlike the automobile industry, electric-powered yachting is still in the early adopter phase. That is why picking experienced manufacturers is crucial. Elan Yachts, for instance, had built various highly successful projects with Oceanvolt in the past and were part of the pioneering few boatbuilders to take on the challenge. The partnership flourished and matured so that Elan is now working exclusively with Oceanvolt and has extended the offer to their whole range of yachts. But what does being an early adopter mean for the buyer? Mostly that the technology is here, but the price is high. For a well-rounded, high-quality and reliable system, you can expect to pay 20-30% more than a comparable diesel-powered sailing yacht. And since a large part of that cost is for the batteries, do not expect that to change very soon as the demand for Lithium-ion batteries is only increasing.

FOR SERIOUS SAILORS

However, let’s assume that the price is not a problem. You want to be among the first few with a zero-emissions yacht – no noise, no exhaust, no smell and no environmental restrictions. You want to sail without the use of fossil fuels. You want the famous instant power output benefits of electricity in emergency situations, no engine rev settling, no pre-start waiting and low maintenance costs. You want to use the wind and the sun to re-charge. All of these are actual benefits of electric yacht propulsion, but what are the downsides? For committed sailors, there are not many. The operating range of high-end electric propulsion systems like the one from Oceanvolt is from 25 to 70 miles at 5 knots (and more, depending on the battery pack options and power generation), which is more than enough to get you in and out of marinas and bays and still have plenty left over to get you out of a bind. The rest, you sail. And if the yacht is fast, the winds are fair and you achieve 5 knots or more, Oceanvolt’s hydrogeneration kicks in and generates power for recharging the battery bank. Hydrogeneration creates drag of only 0.1 knot at a boat speed of 7.0 knots – so it is barely noticeable. If you can go even faster, the power generation increases exponentially (see GRAPH 1).

GRAPH 1: Elan E4 Power generation prediction

(Source: Oceanvolt)

LIVING ABOARD

Buying an electric-powered yacht is still far from an off-the-shelf experience. You need a trusted team of specialists who will guide you through the process and make sure they create a custom solution according to your needs and a good partnership between the shipyard and the electric propulsion provider is crucial. Why is this so different from a car? A yacht is an independent element on the sea and, unlike a car, it will need to provide its owner with much more than just propulsion. It is imperative therefore to consider everything, from the way the yacht is built to the equipment on board. Since you will spend most of your time sailing, you need a yacht that performs well and is easy to sail. A good, reliable sail plan and rig, like the one on Elan yachts, will give you enough options to substitute the practicality of a diesel engine. Elan’s VAIL technology keeps the weight down, its short-handed sailing approach and comfort-centric design will keep you comfortable even when sailing for longer periods, and the high-end electronics are designed to keep consumption low. That is crucial because you will need to bear in mind cooking, refrigeration, water and cabin heating and entertainment, as well as the availability of ports/marinas with good electrical infrastructure. Of course, there are fossil fuel solutions for all these challenges, and Elan’s and Oceanvolt’s partnership offers a hybrid option with a 48V DC generator, which is very practical, if on the pricier side. Purists, however, will want to go full electric. And for them, more renewable power generation options like photovoltaics, a wind generator or a humbler approach to on-board living will be crucial, especially in colder climates. Bear in mind that experienced shipyards like Elan Yachts will be able to provide a complete solution, including solar panel procurement and installation.

POWER OPTIONS

How powerful are electric motors on sailboats? Well, Oceanvolt offers two different propulsion systems. The Finland-based company has developed a 6, 8, 10 and 15kW SD saildrive, as well as a special 10 and 15kW ServoProp with even better hydrogeneration, thanks to its patented and DAME-awarded software-controlled propeller blades, which change pitch to generate as much power as possible. Depending on the yacht, the entry-level SD saildrive enables 5 knots of cruising speed and a top speed of 7 knots on the 30 ft Elan E3. Bear in mind that power consumption and speed is inverse in relation to power generation – as you go faster, you consume exponentially more power (see GRAPH 2) The good part is that the motor and the saildrive weigh only 42.5 kg, which offsets some of the battery weight. In addition, all of the motors are all closed-circuit liquid-cooled, so there is no annoying spluttering.

GRAPH 2 : Elan E3 RANGE PREDICTION

Source: (Oceanvolt)

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The Pros, Cons, and Future of Electric Yachts and Sailboats

• By Sail Greener
• Last updated: April 27, 2022

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If you sail you likely spend considerable time—and money—cleaning, fixing, and worrying about your diesel or gas engine. When it comes to safety, your backup propulsion is as important as your sails. Can you rely on electric motors for safety? What are the pros and cons of buying an electric sailboat?   

Diesel engines are reliable, but they pollute. Diesel (and gas) engines emit greenhouse gasses and exhaust that includes particulate matter and carcinogens that are a risk to human health. 

Until recently, alternatives to marine diesel engines were limited. Boat owners could carry out their own repower projects or purchase expensive commercial electric motors. Storage capacity was a problem.

Fortunately, the winds are shifting and there are now numerous high quality and economically competitive alternatives to traditional marine engines. In this article we describe the pros and cons of purchasing a new motor or repowering an existing engine. We also describe the market for marine electric propulsion systems and identify leading boat builders, manufacturers, and installers.

Why do we need electric sailboats?

The climate is warming and we continue to pump greenhouse gasses into the atmosphere at a torrid pace. Transport emissions, including road, rail, air and marine transportation, account for nearly a quarter of global CO 2 emissions. 1 https://www.ipcc.ch/report/ar5/wg3/transport/ According to the United Nation’s International Maritime Organization , marine traffic accounts for nearly 3% of the world's CO ­­­ 2 emissions.

While emissions from recreational boaters are less than those from shipping and fishing fleets, they are still considerable. According to an estimate from electricmotoryachts.com , if just 5% of the roughly 13 million registered boats in the United States today repowered with electric, boaters would eliminate an estimated 1 billion pounds of CO 2 emissions. Scaled across boaters around the world, the potential for boaters to meaningfully reduce greenhouse gas emissions is significant.

Exposure to diesel emissions also poses health risks. The smallest particulate matter can contribute to heart attacks, strokes, and lung disease. High exposure to small particulates can impair brain development in children. The International Agency for Research on Cancer , part of the World Health Organization (WHO), classifies diesel engine exhaust as carcinogenic to humans.   

Is there a market for marine electric propulsion?

Global concern over climate is leading to a revolution in how we produce and use renewable energy. This is particularly true in the transportation sector. Sales of electric cars in 2019 increased 40%. In 2020, Tesla motors alone produced almost 500,000 new electric vehicles. This helped to propel Elon Musk to become the world’s wealthiest person. Electric vehicle penetration is still just about 3% but growing dramatically 2 https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/automotive-and-assembly/our-insights/mckinsey-electric-vehicle-index-europe-cushions-a-global-plunge-in-ev-sales# A key factor driving this growth, according to the European Patent Office (EPO) and the International Energy Agency, is innovation in rechargeable lithium-ion batteries and other storage technology. Batteries now account for nearly 90% of all patenting activity in the area of electricity storage. Between 2005 and 2018, patenting activity in batteries and related electricity storage technologies grew four times faster than the average of all technology fields. 3 https://www.iea.org/reports/innovation-in-batteries-and-electricity-storage

It is clear we are reaching a tipping point for electric automobiles and trucks 4 https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2021/jan/22/electric-vehicles-close-to-tipping-point-of-mass-adoption . Is the marine sector also experiencing an electric revolution?

The market for marine electric propulsion systems is lagging what is happening with cars and trucks. However, the potential for growth in this sector is extraordinary. In an article published in Yachting World, Christoph Ballin, CEO of electric motor manufacturer Torqueedo, estimated that only about 1.3% of marine propulsion systems are electric. 5 https://www.yachtingworld.com/features/future-yachting-smart-technology-126136 According to an article published in 2017 by IDTechEx there are over 100 manufacturers of electric boats and ships with an estimate of more than $20 billion in global sales by 2027 for non-military boats. According to the IDTechEx report, recreational boats are the largest—and fastest—growing electric marine market by sales.

The growth potential is enormous considering the size of the recreation economy. In the United States alone, in 2019 outdoor recreation generated US$ 788 billion dollars in output. 6 https://boatingindustry.com/news/2020/11/12/orr-provides-breakdown-of-latest-recreation-economy-data/  An estimated $37 billion of this came from retail sales of boats, engines, accessories and marine services. According to the U.S. Bureau of Economic Analysis (BEA) Outdoor Recreation Satellite Account (ORSA) data, Boating and fishing was the largest conventional activity for the nation as a whole, adding  US$ 23.6 billion to the economy. This was the largest conventional activity in 30 states and the District of Columbia and the second largest activity in 11 states. 7 https://boatingindustry.com/news/2020/11/12/orr-provides-breakdown-of-latest-recreation-economy-data/

Pros and Cons of Electric Motors for Boats

What are the pros and cons of electric motors for sailing?

Pros of electric propulsion

• Less noise : Electric motors are quieter than diesel engines and nearly vibration free.
• Lower long-term cost : Motors last a long time and require no fuel. You need batteries and electricity, but the sun and wind can recharge your batteries. You won't need to constantly change engine fluids, filters, or worry about leaks or old tanks.
• Cleaner and healthier: You won't end up with an oily mess in the engine room and bilge
• No emissions, no exhaust : Passengers and crew won't be exposed to hazardous fumes and particulates. You won't be spewing out carbon pollution.
• Instant power: Electric motors can go from zero to full torque instantaneously. Motors do not need to wait for engines to warm up.
• Weight and storage : Electric propulsion systems are typically less heavy than equivalent diesel systems. OceanPlanetEnergy.com estimates that electric propulsion systems are typically 1/3 the weight of diesel systems. This depends, however, on the weight of your battery bank.
• Easier maintenance and lower costs: Electric motors are simpler and easier to maintain than diesel generators. OceanPlanetEnergy.com estimates that maintenance costs could be 1/20 of the maintenance costs of a diesel engine in the first decade, even less over time because of electric propulsion systems use far fewer moving parts.
• Increased reliability and safety : Fewer moving parts translates into fewer breakdown which means which means more safety.
• Regeneration:   Batteries can be recharged while sailing using, solar, wind, and hydro generation systems.  For example, at sailing speeds over 6 knots Oceanvolt systems are reportedly able to generate significant power for recharging the battery bank.
• Improved maneuverability: Electric motors have high torque at low RPM, which can make maneuvering in tight spaces like marinas more precise. Electric motors can switch from forward to backward instantaneously.

Cons of electric propulsion

• Range anxiety: Depending on your battery bank and ability to recharge, you may have less range with an electric motor compared to a diesel engine.
• Cost: Electric motors can be expensive relative to combustion engines, but costs are plummeting.
• Lack of familiarity : Sailors familiar with traditional engines may not feel prepared or comfortable to switch to a new form of power.
• Fires: There can be a small risk of fires from batterie with improper maintenance, but this is also true with internal combustion engines.
• Charging time: Recharging batteries can take time, but charging times are changing quickly. Tesla V3 Superchargers support peak rates of up to 250kW per car, which translates to about 75 miles of charge in 5 minutes for a Model 3 and charge at rates of up to 1,000 miles per hour 8 https://www.tesla.com/blog/introducing-v3-supercharging . In January 2021 the Israeli company StoreDot announced new “exreme-fast-charging” lithium-ion batteries that could charge a car battery capable of 100 miles of charge in 5 minutes.   It will only be a matter of time before similar speed and capacity is available for boaters.

Industry Leaders

Who are industry leaders in the electric sailboat space?

Electric propulsion companies

Numerous companies produce electric and hybrid propulsion systems for the marine sector. Some of the best known and highest quality brands that provide electric propulsion systems for yachts and sailboats include:

• Elco Motor : Elco is one of the industry leaders in this field. The company has been around for more than 125 years and now produces a wide range of outboard and inboard electric and hybrid propulsion systems. 
• OceanVolt : The Finnish company is one of the industry leaders in electric propulsion. The company produces a wide range of electric propulsion systems for monohulls and multihulls. The company has provided cutting-edge electric propulsion systems for Vendée Globe racers, including Alex Thompson’s Hugo Boss and Conrad Colman in 2017, and other racers like French Olympic sailor Damien Seguin.
• Torqeedo : When Torqeedo was founded in 2004, concepts like “clean tech” and “electromobility” were just a glimmer in Mother Earth’s eye.  One of the pioneers in the modern marine electric propulsion sector, Torqeedo is now one of the market leaders. The company offers outboard and inboard electric motors and hybrid drive systems ranging from 0.5 km to 100 kw in addition to diverse accessories from lithium batteries and solar charging equipment to smartphone apps.
• Aquamot : This German company produces in-house electric propulsion systems for electric for boats and ships, including motors, batteries, and chargers.
• Kraeutler Elektromotoren produces a wide range of industrial, ship drive, and boat motors, including drive units for motor and sailing boats.

Electric sailboat manufacturers

Who builds sailboats with electric motors?

Electric propulsion is going mainstream. Dozens of boat builders are building electric-only boats (like SoelYachts.com and Silent-Yachts.com ). Some traditional yacht builders now offer electric propulsion options—and this will likely grow to include all major manufacturers in coming years. Examples of leading yacht manufacturers that include electric propulsion options include:   

• Arcona Yachts : A leading builder of high quality yachts from Sweden, Arcona is starting to offer high quality zero-emission models, such as the Arcona 415 .
• Alva Yachts : The German luxury electric yacht brand has designed both mult-hull (non-sail) and monohul (sail) boats. The company’s 25-m Ocean Sail 82 was designed with a hybrid propulsion system and a high capacity battery bank.
• Baltic Yachts : The Finish producer of luxury yachts and a world leaders in advanced composite yacht building in 2020 selected Oceanvolt for the company’s 68-foot Café Racer manufactured in Finland. The Javier Jaudenes designed boat is just over 20 meters long and 5.5 meters wide. 
• In 2001 Elan Yachts and Oceanvolt agreed to partner to build a full range of electric-powered yachts ranging from the luxurious GT6 to the the sporty E-Line performance cruisers.
• Hanse Yachts : The world’s third largest boat builder, Hanse produces the Hanse 315, which includes an electric rudder-drive option.
• Salona Yachts : A Croatian boatbuilder, Salona builds the Salona 46, a fast, comfortable, and luxurious electric yacht and winner of the Best Green Boat Award at the  Newport International Boat Show . 
• Sunreef Yachts Eco :   A manufacturer of luxury bespoke multihulls, Sunreef Yachts Eco catamarans are equipped with composite-integrated solar panel systems and lightweight batteries for energy efficiency and environmentally-conscious luxury cruising.
• Wally : The Dutch yacht builder produces, among its many other models, the 11.35 meter Wallynano MKII, which relies on an OceanVolt electric propulsion system
• Zen Yachts : A new company established in 2021, Zen builds what it claims is the world's first series production catamaran equipped with a wingsail.

Electric conversion companies

Who can help me convert my sailboat to electric propulsion?

A growing number of companies are dedicated to helping boat builders and individuals convert their yachts. These companies may provide design and support options for advanced battery systems, solar and wind systems, hydrogenation, and overall system design. Some of these companies produce their own electric motors and systems. Leading companies in the field include:

• OceanPlanet Energy : This company includes some of the giants of the industry. Bruce Schwab was the first American to officially finish the Vendee Globe. Nigel Calder is one of the best known sailing technology writers, including his must-read classic, Boatowner’s Mechanical and Electrical Manual. The company provides energy storage, charging, and monitoring systems; system design and consulting.
• Electric Yacht : The Minnesota, USA-based company with the eponymous name supports sailors interested in electric propulsion systems. The company helps boaters design and size system and provides motor kits, batteries, chargers, and other components. The company provides examples of conversion projects on its website.
• e Marine Systems specializes in distributing solar panels, wind generators, electric propulsion drives, inverters, and energy storage systems. The company is located in Fort Lauderdale, Florida, USA.
• Naval DC produces both “pure” solar and hybrid electric systems ranging from 10 kW to 1 MW. The company provides lithium battery solutions, data and monitoring systems, electric propulsion, and matched propeller systems.

Yacht dealers

A small but growing number of yacht dealers offer new and used electric boats. Green Yacht Sales is an example of a small company that supports the sale of electric yachts and systems from diverse manufacturers.

Global clearinghouses, like YachtWorld and Boat Trader , now provide options to filter searches for electric propulsion sailboats.

Battery technology and companies

Until recently, the amount of energy batteries could store was limited. The cost of buying a new battery bank was prohibitive for most sailors. Today, however, costs are dropping and batteries provide more charge. Range anxiety remains one of the biggest reasons sailors don’t want to swap out polluting diesel engines for quieter and cleaner all-electric systems. However, this concern will soon be obsolete.

There are many high quality marine battery suppliers. Some of the major players in the LiPO market include:

• ChargeEx Lithium Ion Batteries
• Dakota Lithium
• Dragonfly Energy
• Victron Energy

Successful Examples

Okay, this all sounds good in theory, but is it really possible to throw out your old engine and install a new motor? Here are a few examples of individuals and companies making the switch to electric yachts.

As with many disruptive technologies, it is easier for wealthy individuals to pay more—often much more—for tomorrow’s technology today. That said, these Super Early Adopters are a harbinger of things to come. These individuals may be risk takers but they are also typically really smart and forward-thinking.

Swedish billionaire Niklas Zennstrom is one example of a pioneering “mogul” in the electric yacht world. The founder of Skype and former Time Magazine 100 Most Influential People awardee, in 2018 Zennstrom’s team launched Rán VII. Yachtingworld described the boat as “…so angular it calls to mind Darth Vader or a Stealth bomber.”

Zennstrom shared his views on the future of electric racing in a CNN article in 2018:

“Having gone through the design, build and initial test cycle there is no doubt to me that the future for racing yachts is electric propulsion. It's lighter, less drag, quieter, and most importantly it is environmentally friendly.”

Do-it-yourselfers have been converting electric sailboats for years. The mainstream boating magazines and the media are increasingly showcasing the stories of these sailors retrofitting their boats. A few examples of well-publicized electric yacht conversion stories include:

• In 2019 Yachting World wrote an article, “How hybrid sailing yachts finally became a feasible option.”
• Dufour 382: According to an article in Yachting World , the owners Alcyone , a Dufour built in 2016, was retrofitted with an Oceanvolt SD15 saildrive moto r.

The future of electric sailboats

We are facing a climate emergency and the world is mobilizing to reduce emissions of greenhouse gasses. A growing number of boat builders, engine and battery producers, service companies, and individuals are addressing this need by building and retrofitting emission-free sailboats.  We are still in the early stages of this transformation, but change is coming quickly.

Some of the major challenges—and opportunities—for catalyzing this transition in coming years include:

• Battery storage, charging, and cost: The pace of technology change in the battery sector is dizzying. The amount of charge, the time to charge, and the price per kilowatt of battery storage systems are all improving.  Superchargers are already widespread on land. How long will it take for marine supercharging stations to fill the world’s marinas?
• Overcoming tradition : Sailors who have used the same technology for decades may hesitate to switch to new technology. Sailors used to heavy yachts and small batteries may look with skepticism on this new technology. Range anxiety is very real in the middle of the ocean. 
• Cost : As with any new technology, early adopters may have to pay more. The cost of electric propulsion, solar and wind power, and battery storage are dropping quickly. Cost will soon be less of a concern and may become a clear benefit.
• Retrofits: Many boats still sailing form 1960s and 1970s so 50 years of old boats locked in. But this is also an opportunity for individuals and companies who are willing and able to take this space
• Manufacturing: making boats expensive and companies may not want to take risks. But new companies are emerging, and the major yacht companies now coming out with electric options (examples).

We are at the dawn of a new age of sailing. With each passing month electric propulsion technology is improving. Motors are getting better, batteries and solar panels are getting cheaper, and electric sailboats are starting to become mainstream.

Finding more information

If you want to learn more about healthy products, check out The Sail Greener Guide to Healthy Sailing . If you want to learn more about who is working to conserve the ocean, see our list of The Best Ocean Conservation Organizations for Sailors .

• Sail Greener
• Originally Published: February 26, 2022

Table of Contents

• climate , diesel engine , electric motor , environment , sailboat , yacht

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4 Best Electric Outboard Motors

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

Taking a small dinghy with an electric outboard motor on your sailboat can provide a means of quick and reliable transportation.

While electric outboard motors can have difficulty moving full-size sailboats around, they are more than powerful enough to get a small dinghy going fast. While trolling motors are only good for slow speeds, an electric outboard motor can get a boat going fast as long as the boat is small enough.

Electric outboard motors can be a better choice than gas motors. As well as being powerful enough, they are lighter, more compact, and more reliable. You can count on motors from ePropulsion and Torquedo to last for a while.

If your sailboat is large enough, you should always take a dinghy with you. As well as being a potential lifesaver in an emergency, a dinghy is useful any time you need to drop anchor and make it to shore. A dinghy with a motor is cheap compared to a sailboat, so a sailor should always have a dinghy with them.

Table of contents

How fast can you go with an electric outboard motor?

If you are running a powerful motor on a small boat at full speed, you might be able to do 15 knots or better. Usually, you won't go that fast when you are in a dinghy and running an electric motor.

If you want to make it as far as possible, you will run the motor on much less than full power. Fifteen knots is what you might get if you are running a powerful 6000 watt motor on a small boat. Normal speeds are slower - you might move at less than five knots if you want to travel as many miles as possible before the battery dies.

How far can you make it in a dinghy with an electric motor?

Something like 20 miles is a rough, ballpark figure, although with some motors, you might be able to make it 70 miles at a slow speed. Don't take any risks when it comes to whether or not your battery will run out in the middle of the sea. Be on the safe side.

You will do much better if you run your motor at a slower speed. If you run your motor as fast as possible, you might make it only a fraction of the maximum distance before your battery runs out. Distances high above 20 miles are sometimes possible if you go slow, although it depends on the boat and the motor.

How is power measured for electric motors?

The power of an electric motor is usually measured in watts, not horsepower. Sometimes the power of an electric motor is given in horsepower, but usually in watts.

Boat motors vary greatly in how powerful they are. A motor that is only 10hp, 5hp, or 3hp is common even though outboard motors can be 20hp or more.

Usually, you can go more like 5 knots than 15 knots with an electric or gas motor. To go 15 knots, you might need something like a 100hp motor - this is too expensive and not what people are likely to put on a small dinghy.

What are the advantages of gas motors?

In the long run, electric motors can save you money because it costs less to keep them running. After the first few years, electric motors are the cheaper choice.

The maintenance cost per hour of use is much higher for petrol motors. After only a few hundred hours of use, a petrol motor's cost will exceed the cost of an electric motor.

One disadvantage of electric motors is that they run on batteries, which take time to charge. You will have to charge your batteries overnight, compared to quickly refueling a gas engine.

One way out of this problem is to use a solar charger. With a solar charger, you can charge your batteries anywhere as long as the sun is out.

Electric outboard motor advantages

As well as being effectively cheaper than gas motors, electric motors are much quieter. Compared to a gas engine, an electric motor is almost silent. You will hear almost nothing and will not scare fish away.

Electric motors are also much cleaner to deal with than gas motors. If you use an electric motor, you won't have to deal with engine grease. You can get engine grease on your boat and not just on your hands and clothes with a gas motor.

Gas motors also have exhaust fumes, so an electric motor is better for your health. Electric motors are also simpler than gas motors, so you won't have to repair them as often.

Is it possible to buy high powered electric outboard motors?

Yes, you can find an electric motor with a power equivalent to an 80 horsepower gas engine. Not many people put such powerful motors on their dinghies, though. Dinghies mostly have weaker motors, often less than five horsepower.

Is it easy to break a propeller if you hit something?

You can definitely do expensive damage to a propeller if it hits a rock. A small bump won't damage it - most propellers are made well and are reasonably durable. If your motor does not come with a propeller guard, you should buy one separately.

Are 3hp motors good enough for many boats, or are they too weak for most purposes?

If you are using a small dinghy that weighs less than two tons, and do not intend to go very fast, a 3hp motor is good enough. You can go much faster than trolling speed with only a 3hp motor if your craft is small enough. For a small sailboat that weighs more like six tons than one or two tons, a 10hp motor may be enough.

Best electric outboard motors

Make sure you buy a high-quality motor because these are not tiny investments. You can lose more than a little money if you buy a shoddy product that does not have a good warranty. Put a bit of time into verifying the reliability of whatever you purchase.

1) ePropulsion Spirit 1.0 Plus

If you are fine with a fairly weak 3HP motor, the Spirit 1.0 Plus is a great product with few disadvantages. The Spirit 1.0 Plus from ePropulsion is built to last, uses power efficiently, and doesn't cost a fortune.

At full speed, the Spirit will only last for about 90 minutes on a single battery. With a 12 foot boat, you can go about 9 km/h - not bad for a relatively low power engine. You also do not need to run the boat on full power to approach your boat's maximum speed.

If you run the Spirit on 1/4 power, you can keep it going for 6 or 8 hours. Batteries are fairly heavy, but you can keep the motor running for a long time if you bring extra batteries. The motor can save you in a dangerous situation and is great for non-emergency uses as well.

Another advantage of the Spirit is that the battery floats, so it won't sink if you drop it in the water. The Spirit is also light, even with the powerful battery it comes with. The digital display that shows how much battery power you have left is accurate.

Like other electric boat motors, the Spirit is more environmentally friendly and healthier than a gas engine. Gas engines have fuel leakage and fumes; an electric motor avoids these problems. The Spirit even comes with a 180W solar panel to charge it, although this is not the only or the fastest way of charging the battery.

The motor even has a remote control, so you can steer it and adjust the speed with a console. If the Spirit has a disadvantage, it is that the range on a single battery is unimpressive. You can make it a little more than 20 miles, but many other electric motors let you go farther on a single battery.

2) ePropulsion Navy 6.0

If you are looking for something longer lasting than and more powerful than the Spirit 1.0 Plus, ePropulsion also offers the more powerful Navy 6.0 . The Navy 6.0 is equivalent to a 10Hp engine, so it won't struggle to move a relatively big boat.

The range on the Navy 6.0 is impressive. The battery is powerful enough that you can travel 40 miles before having to recharge. If you want to bring more than one battery, the Navy 6.0 can be compatible with other companies' batteries.

The Navy 6.0 also has a propeller that will stop immediately if it hits anything. This can save your engine from damage if the propeller hits a rock or anything else. There is also an emergency stop kill switch to

The Navy 6.0 works just as well in freshwater as in saltwater. It is advantageous to have an electric motor on a lake because there are laws against gas motors in some lakes.

3) Torquedo Travel 1003

One thing that makes the Torquedo Travel stand out is its onboard GPS computer, which can calculate how far you can travel before the battery runs out. The computer will continuously update how far you can travel based on how much battery power is left, how fast you are going, and how much power you are using.

While the Torquedo Travel can run for 10 or 11 hours on a full charge, it can only move a small boat at 1.5 or 2 knots for that long. If you run the engine at half throttle, it will last for 3.5 hours at 3 knots. If you travel faster, the battery runs out very fast - it will only last half an hour at 5 knots.

If you want a solar charger for the motor, you can buy it separately from the company. It is costly, but the solar panels do work well and give you a way to charge the battery at sea.

The Torquedo Travel is also a small and light motor that does not take up much room. Without the battery, it weighs only 8.9 kilograms. You can easily remove and store the engine.

Another useful feature is the kill switch that allows you to stop the motor immediately in an emergency. You can also use the engine/battery as a power source for electronics through a USB.

The Torquedo is a reliable engine backed by a two-year warranty. It is equivalent only to a 3HP engine, so it is not powerful enough for everyone.

4) Torquedo Cruise 4.0 T

The Torquedo Cruise is the best choice if you want a more powerful alternative to the Torquedo Travel. The Torquedo Cruise electric outboard motor is equivalent to an 8HP gas engine. If you need a motor for a boat that weighs three or four tons instead of one or two tons, get the Cruise instead of the Travel.

The Torquedo Cruise will stay completely waterproof for a long time and not develop small leaks quickly. Small leaks can ruin some of the cheaper engines on the market. The Torquedo Cruise is also very corrosion resistant, so you can use it in saltwater for a long time without damage.

The Torquedo Cruise has the same onboard GPS computer, emergency off switch, and two-year warranty as the Torquedo Travel does. The only disadvantage compared to the Torquedo Travel is the higher price. Not everyone needs a more powerful motor, but it is an excellent engine if you do.

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Specifications

NOTE: 15 kW @2700 rpm* Note: Battery and propeller are not included in standard delivery S2-60 = Minimum 60 minutes at full rated output, at sea water temperature 30 degrees C, ambient air temperature 50 degrees C

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Electric Motor

Please note:.

The following information is in regards to our initial set up. It has been almost 5 years since we wrote this. Many upgrades and improvements have been made since then. All can bee seen on our Youtube Channel. Updated wiring diagrams, specs and photos will be coming soon. In the meantime, much of the below information is still accurate and I’m sure you will find it useful. And the answer to our most asked question is YES, we still love our electric motor!

WHY ELECTRIC?

An electric motor . . .

Is not for everyone..

Lets first take a look back in time when “production” boats became popular in the late 60s early 70s, the intent was to make an inexpensive boat the average family could afford and handle with limited sailing experience and knowledge. As a result, one of their requirements was the ability to move the boat in difficult situations. This is where the “auxiliary engine” was coined. But, for many, it has become the primary means of maneuvering their boat. Yes, there are places in the world you can’t sail, like the Panama Canal. But, there are often alternatives where you CAN sail.

“We have yet to use our motor for more than 30 minutes at a time.”

As of today, November 2016, we have sailed over 3000 miles up the east coast of the United States and through the Bahamas to Haiti. We have yet to use our motor for more than 30 minutes at a time. The majority of use comes when we drop the mainsail and back down on our anchor to set it. Most of our sailing has been offshore. But, we have also sailed on the ICW and recently sailed 25 miles up the Cape Fear River to Wilmington, NC. We have sailed under many bridges, some on set schedules, others open on demand. In all cases, we sailed under. We have found that having a solid plan and the patience to wait for the right weather and tide is the key.After all, we own a sailboat. They are inherently slow. We are not in a rush. We love the idea of being self-sufficient. But, for those who sail with schedules, are short on time, lack the patience to sit out a wind hole, feel the need to power their boat to hull speed, enjoy maintaining a diesel engine, or are just set in their ways, then an electric motor probably isn’t the right choice.

Want to learn even MORE…?

Of course we would love for you to stick around and read this page all the way to the bottom, but, we have tucked in many distractions (i.e. links) along the way. Don’t feel bad if you digress, we know you’ll be back. If you want to just jump feet first into all things “electric sailboat” Electric Seas is a good place to start. It’s a great resources community and features several other electric sailboat stories for you to enjoy.

ANOTHER POTENTIALLY GREAT RESOURCES…. 

“My Electric Boats” by: Charles Mathys. 

Although this book is currently on our Amazon wish list, we have not read it yet. But, it is the only one we could find on the subject and, for only $15, it looks promising. If you read it before we do, let us know what you think!

You don’t need a diesel . . .  

For ocean passages..

Many people have written in and commented that an electric motor is only good for day sailors who weren’t going very far each day, and that you need a reliable diesel engine for long distance cruising. But we feel like the opposite is true. Since we don’t have a dock to tie up to and charge our batteries each night, we rely on sailing to recharge our system. The longer we sail and the more sun we get, the more power we make. Because we don’t have a 9-5 to return to at the end of a fun weekend out on the boat, we have no schedules requiring that we make it back to the dock on time, no matter what the wind is doing. So, we feel that an electric motor, depending on your sailing style, can be adapted to any boat. But, you have to be willing to work around the one major draw back, range.

“We have no schedules requiring that we make it back to the dock on time.”

Range is the one major downside to an electric motor. But, with a sailboat, and some adequate sailing skills, we have found we really don’t need a motor as much as we originally thought. For those who do have schedules, the possibility of a hybrid system may work well. It encompasses all the benefits of an electric system with the added back up of a diesel or gas genset rated to supply adequate power for extended motoring. Some companies even offer an electric motor, like this one, that can be installed in parallel to an existing diesel motor. So the majority of motoring is done with the traditional diesel, however for short periods of time, like moving around the marina, the electric drive can be used instead. This also incorporates the added benefit of capturing power from the spinning prop while sailing, often referred to as “regeneration” or “regen”.

Our conversion to electric . . .  

Started with our motor..

We found the motor on ebay.com, knew it worked and that was about it. We chose this specific motor for three reasons:

• It was rated at 4.8kW at 36v which was adequate for our needs.
• It was overbuilt for an industrial application. This meant it had robust parts and easy to source replacement brushes.
• The motor cost us $125! Since this entire “Electro-Beke” project is just one big experiment, we tried at every corner to keep our expenses minimal.

Our motor weighs 110 pounds, which is quite a bit more than its brushless DC siblings like those used in the existing electric boat market. Although it is probably a little less efficient, its components are much more robust and durable. It is heavy duty, low cost and provides adequate power, with the added bonus of being simple and easy to find parts for. The only parts we will likely ever have to replace are the 8 carbon brushes that transfer electricity to the motor armature (the part that spins on the inside). Depending on use, they can last for many years without wearing out, and for about $80 we can buy a complete replacement set to have onboard. That’s it, virtually maintenance free, with only 1 moving part, the motor itself is relatively simple. On our boat, simplicity is often the defining factor for equipment selection.

This motor happens to be wired with separately excited field and armature (or SEPEX). It just means that we have a lot more control over the motors power output. We can tune it down to have more low end torque, or up to gain high end speed. This will allow us to customize the power output we need for our specific boat. A few other types of motors out there include, Series , and Permanent Magnet that only have one set of coils. Each type has its own benefits and drawbacks. But we won’t get into any of that here. If you would like to know even more about DC motors, click HERE .

we didn’t buy new . . .

Because we received quotes from three different companies:.

• Here’s our quote from OceanVolt for their AX8 motor.
• Here’s our quote from Annapolis Hybrid Marine for a Thoosa 7000HT motor. Read their prediction for power consumption and battery drain.
• Click here to see some data and predictions from Electric Yacht for their Quite Torque 20 motor.

Our entire set up . . .

Cost us just $1,400..

As you can see by the above quotes, The motors and supplementary wiring are all in the $10,000 price range. That doesn’t include a battery bank. Our motor and wiring cost us just under $500. Many of our components were refurbished, used or salvaged from boats being demolished, including some of the wiring. The battery bank and additional tools, like wire crimpers and cutters were another $500. So, for about $1000, we installed our Electro-Beke system. Our charging system ended up costing us only $400 thanks to a few amazing companies who joined our Uma Angels Family and supplied the major components. Find out more about our charging system in the “Charging” section below.

That Breaks down to:

$500 _ for the motor, controller and supplementary wiring. $500 _ for the batteries. $400 _ for the solar charger, panels and bimini modifications.

Power required . . .

To push our boat and yours..

Our motor has an 8hp rating. For those accustomed to gas or diesel engines, this may not seem like much power. But, the rating systems used for gas engines and electric motors are so different that comparing the numbers is almost meaningless. It comes down to the way the two types of motors use their energy and torque curves, which is quite different. According to the research we have done, a 1 hp gas (or diesel) engine can push 500 pounds of displacement to hull speed in calm conditions. Now, the sources disagree a little here, but as a rule of thumb a 1hp electric motor can push about 3 to 3.5 times more displacement than its petrol equivalent. So a 1hp electric motor, drawing 750W, can push about 1500 pounds of displacement.

“Hull speed’ and ‘redundant power’ weren’t something we worried about in our system.”

Our boat displaces 13,500 pounds. so, 13,500 / 1500 = 9hp electric motor., now 1hp (of electric) draws about 750 watts. so, 9hp x 750w = 6.75kw electric motor..

At 48V, our motor should give us 6.3kW, which is slightly less than what we would need to push our boat to hull speed in calm conditions. But that is something we never intend to do. It takes a lot of power to push a displacement boat to hull speed. So the slower you go, the greater your range will be. However, it takes a long time to cover that distance. So, there is a sweet spot right around 4 kts (see graph to the right) where you make good headway, while being conservative with your power consumption. Of course, these are merely suggestions. Real world conditions are rarely perfect and adding 30% redundancy is often recommended by many motor companies. 

We only use our motor for close quarter maneuvering where sailing isn’t an option, like a marina, or tight anchorage, so “hull speed” and “redundant power” weren’t something we worried about when designing our system. We often sail on and off the hook and choose places to anchor with few boats around. 

Power | Speed | Range

Hover over any point to see exact data. For example, it is estimated that at 2.7 kts our motor will draw 600 watts (blue), giving us a range of 65 nautical miles (grey). This graph is based on a 14kW Lithium battery bank and a high end motor/controller combo.

Here are some great companies . . .

That install, sell, or can help answer your questions..

Thunderstruck-EV  and EV-West  are staffed by great people who would love to hear from you and help answer any questions you may have. They both offer DIY kits that will suit the needs of any boat. They can also help source adequate battery banks, help with solar and even find local experts to assist with installations as well. 

If you’re looking for a more “plug and play” set up, check out the companies below. They represent the best in the industry and will gladly customize a set up for your specific needs and provide a detailed quote.

Elco Motors

elcomotoryachts.com

[email protected]

1 (877) 411-3526

Oceanvolt SEA

oceanvolt.com

[email protected]

+358 10 325 5281

clean-e-marine.com

[email protected]

+1 (410) 353-4348

Electric Yacht

electricyachtsocal.com

[email protected]

1 (855) 339-2248

Electroprop

electroprop.com

[email protected]

+1 (805) 455-8444

WANT TO LEARN EVEN MORE…?

Here is another great article about “How much electric power do you really need? !!! !!!

INSTALLATION

Getting down to the Nuts and Bolts

For the complete parts list and wiring diagram, scroll down..

There is a lot to talk about here. Hopefully you can follow along and not fall asleep. Like…I …….am…….right….nowwwww(yawn)www…  SLAP !!! Ok! I’m awake. Where was I. Right, wiring.

With no degrees or formal training in electrical engineering (and no, they didn’t teach us this stuff in architecture school), we had a lot of learning to do. Here we were, with a big heavy electric motor we knew nothing about, a boat it could theoretically push and the dream it would all work in the end. Now all we had to do was figure out how to get the motor to spin the prop. Sounded simple enough…right?

“…all we had to do was figure out how to get the motor to spin the prop.”

This step, of course took the longest. Since all our components were used, refurbished or salvaged, we had to test everything. We then started wiring the system in pieces in the salon and testing those. We then modified, adjusted, replaced and fabricated new systems and tested those. In all, it took us 9 months from motor purchase, to moving boat. Granted, not all of that time was devoted to installing the motor. We did have a few other projects on the side.

There are four main sections to our electric motor installation:

• The motor controller
• The batteries
• The wires that connect it all together

The motor we talked about previously. In all honesty, the main concern when sourcing a motor, is that it has enough power (watts) to push your boat to the speed you would like. The second concern is that it will work with the voltage of the components you choose. 12/24/36/48/72/96V are all common. The general rule, is that the higher the voltage, the fewer amps need to be pushed through the system to attain the same wattage. With this in mind, we have found that 72/96V systems tend to be more expensive than similar 48V set ups and, pushing a boat requires much less power that pushing a car. So, we’re not worried about running hundreds of amps through the system. Although rated at 36V, we run our motor at 48V so we can utilize available golf cart components for the rest of our systems, which are also inexpensive and abundantly available. For our boat, we designed the system to handle 150 amps. This would give us a theoretical output of just over 7kW (48V x 150A = 7.2 kW). If you were paying attention earlier, you might notice that our motor is rated for only 4.8kW at 36V. That is a continuous rating however. It can handle more, but cannot sustain it for long periods of time without some external cooling system. But, because there are times when we need all the power we can get, like stopping or backing down on the anchor, we decided to run our system with a higher amperage rating to accommodate that need.

CHECK OUT THESE PHOTOS OF OUR FINAL INSTALLATION.

(As usual, click to enlarge)

The Motor Controller

This little box is the heart of an electrical conversion. Similar to the head of an ICE (internal combustion engine), it controls the speed at which the electric motor spins. It does this by breaking up the power stream coming in from the batteries into tiny little pulses. This is called Pulse Width Modulation or PWM. There are many different types of controllers out there. In general, if you found a motor with standard voltage range, there is a controller on the market that will work for it. Some are more complex than others. Some offer built in regen capabilities, while other require computer programing and digital displays. 

Our controller is a Curtis 1209B. It is designed to run a series motor, but since we got it for such a good deal, we made it work with ours by only using it to power the armature. See the wiring diagram below for more details. This controller is not fancy. It is weather proof, simple and robust. If you haven’t figured it out by now, we love simple and robust. 

The Batteries

We will explain more below in the “BATTERIES” section. But for now, as long as you can create a battery bank that can be wired to produce the required voltage for the rest of your system, then you’ll be fine. Also keep in mind how much space and weight the bank will require. Ours fit perfectly where our old fuel tank used to be and helped offset all the weight we lost by removing the tank and the old diesel motor. For typical lead acid banks,  at 36V you will need 3 -12v or 6-6V batteries. A 48V bank will require 4 or 8 respectively and so on. Although you can purchase massive deep cycle batteries with equally large aH ratings, we don’t see the value of them since it is very difficult to maneuver them into tight spaces on a boat. Ideally, if you can afford them, a lithium bank would be the best for an electric motor conversion. We’ll talk more about them in the “WHAT”S NEXT” section below. 

All our wires our tinned copper or “Marine Grade”, although, we despise that term since it often just means “more expensive.” The majority of which, we scrapped off of boats that were being demolished at the boatyard. What we couldn’t find for free, we purchased from a local discount marine store that sold surplus marine components. This allowed us to spend very little for all the wiring. 

For the most part it is all oversized, but when it comes to wire, the bigger the better. There are many useful online calculators that can help give an idea of what size wire will be appropriate for a given application. If your wiring is undersized, the system will lose some efficiency. For the most part this is of no concern. However, in extreme circumstances it will heat the wire to the point of melting things. For example, we undersized the cables connecting the motor controller to the armature, after a 15min full power test at the dock, we melted off the heat shrink tubing on the terminal lugs. It was quickly replaced by something much more beefy and hasn’t been a problem since. 

O yeah, One More Thing . . .

The motor mount. .

Oops, almost forgot. Somehow we had to keep the motor inline with the transmission and securely mounted to the boat.  We built and re-built 6 different mounting brackets prior to the one we have now. Each being fabricated after hours of sketches and models were developed. We didn’t have to modify the motor any or the transmission itself. However, we did modify the original transmission adapter plate that was used to attach it to the back of our Westerbeke.  We then securely attached the transmission to the hull of our boat. This allowed the motor to float in front of it, leaving the transmission to absorb any thrust from the prop. 

We fabricated the brackets out of steal since it is easy to work with and weld. Once we settled on a final design, we epoxied and painted the brackets and motor with engine enamel. We’re quite pleased with the final outcome. All the exposed metal is protected from corrosion and it is very securely mounted to the old engine pan.

In tandem to our bracket iterations, were several attempts to connect the motor to the transmission. Our early versions were poorly aligned causing horrible vibrations that in turn produced noise. Noise was something we were trying to avoid by going electric. The final design paired two identical sprockets, connected inline by a #50 double roller chain. This seems to work quite well. It allows for small misalignments and produces the least amount of noise. There are of course many other options out there, and someday we may experiment with them. But, for now, this set up works for us. 

Take a look through our Electro-Beke playlist on Youtube  for video of the installation process. 

WIRING DIAGRAM

Including complete parts list..

Here it is. The schematic you’ve all been requesting. You may notice that it is drawn for a direct drive system, where the motor is used to electronically shift from forward to reverse. We have since installed our motor in front of our old transmission and no longer need the Fwd/Rev circuit. However, since the majority of set ups out there use the motor to achieve Fwd/Rev, we wanted to show our diagram depicting a similar set up. If you end up with a Series or PM motor, you should be able to modify this diagram by excluding the 12V bank to motor connections. However, many of the components, like the contactors, require a 12V supply to operate their solenoids. So you will still need a 12V accessory bank. This is often the house bank of a boat, since many smaller boats run 12V house banks anyway.

Below are the components we used, why we chose them, where to buy them and pictures of them installed in our boat. If you didn’t figure it out already, their letters correspond to the diagram above.

(A) – 10A FUSE 

Buy one HERE .

This is a simple automotive fuse held in an inline fuse holder. It protects the ignition circuit wiring from drawing too much amperage in the event of a short.

(B) – Key Switch

Buy one here . .

The key switch is mainly for security. It can be replaced by a simple on/off switch, but taking the key out will slow down someone trying to leave with your boat, without your permission.

(C) – FWD/REV Switch

This switch is only needed if you are planning a direct drive system. We no longer have need for it, but also have yet to rewire our system after we installed the transmission. It is a basic rocker switch with an on/off/on rocker and 6 pins on the back. This allows both positive and negative wires to be switched. We also wired ours so that it will shut off the contactors if switched accidentally while the throttle was engaged. That way it wouldn’t cause any damage to the motor.

(D) – Throttle

The throttle tells the motor controller how much power to send the motor. We chose this one because it allowed us to keep our existing throttle lever and cable mounted on the steering pedestal. It also has a micro switch that we use to close the secondary contactor (N) on the 48V side and the Fwd/Rev contactor (E) on the 12V side when the throttle is pushed forward. This ensures no voltage is going through the system until the throttle is actually engaged.

(E) – FWD/REV Contactor

This, again, is not needed if you, like us, install the motor with a transmission that handles Fwd/Rev. However, if you are planning a direct drive set up, and the controller you chose doesn’t have a Fwd/Rev circuit, then this is a necessary evil. The one we used, we scrapped off an dead windlass. It works great for the 12V circuit and are easy to find.

(F) – Main Battery Switch

Our boat came with this switch installed already. We simply rewired it slightly to accommodate our systems. For now we only use the “Battery 1” and “off” settings. However, if we eventually install a DC-DC converter to bring our 48V bank down to 12V we could wire it to the “battery 2” position as a back up battery bank.

(G) – Positive Buss Bar

Pretty basic here. A buss bar is used to connect multiple leads to the same source. This one is beefy to handle high amperage on the positive side of the 12V circuit.

(H) – Negative Buss Bar

Same as the Positive buss bar above. However this one is tied into the 48V circuit. 

(J & M) – Shunt

These are pretty standard. They are required to hook up an amp meter and measure how much amperage is running through your system. Often an amp meter will come with its own shunt. They sample the current so that not all 100+ amps are running through a meter. That would be very dangerous. Just make sure the shunt and meter are rated for the same mV, usually 50mV or 100mV.

(K & U) – Main Fuse

These fuses protect the wiring in the system. The closer to the battery bank the better. The fuse on the 48V side is rated for 200A and the 12V fuse is rated for 80A. These are rated for amperage only and can usually take a variety of voltages. Both fuses and holders are identical. They just have different ratings.

(L) – Primary Contactor 

This contactor is wired to the main key switch. It is a bit redundant but shuts off any power from the controller, motor and gauges. It acts more like a battery shut off.

(N) – Secondary Contactor

This contactor supplies the motor controller with the power it needs to run the motor. It is also the one that is bypassed by (T) the pre-charge resistor. Contactors are just big remote activated switches. Like breakers, they activate very fast to eliminate high amperage arching.

(P) – Motor Controller 

The motor controller we chose works for our application, but there are many out there to choose from. Do your own research here before deciding on what motor you will use. We happened to get a sweet deal on ours so we made it work with our motor. Our system would be less complicated if we used a controller designed for a SEPEX motor. The Curtis 1209B that we have is designed for a Series motor, but we make it work.

(Q) – DC Motor (SEPEX)

Sorry, you’ll have to find this one on your own.

Since another motor like ours has yet to show up again for sale online, we can’t really recommend the same one. However, the basic idea is finding a motor with the appropriate wattage to push your boat. Refer to our “Power Requirements” section to get an idea of what that might be. Then just make sure it will produce the desired power at a voltage that you would like to work with. We recommend 48V for most applications for reasons described previously.

(R) –  Amp Meter

These attach to the shunt (J & M) and show you how many amps are running through the system. Depending on where it is placed it can either read the amps being drawn from the battery bank or the amps going to the motor. We decided to read the amps being drawn from our batteries.

(S) – Volt Meter

This meter does not require a shunt. As long as the negative lead makes its way back to the negative buss bar, the positive lead can be attached at any point along the circuit. We chose again to read the battery bank voltage with ours. However, it can also be place on the motor to read the voltage there instead.

(T) – Pre-charge Resistor 

They look like THIS . 

There is no specific item to show you here. Each controller and each set up is different. But, I can tell you that the pre-charge resistor is very important. It by-passes the main contactors and supplies the motor controller with the power it needs to pre-charge, so its ready when the main contactor is switched on and all that amperage comes rushing in.

Make sure you check out SV Bianka’s page for another detailed blog about his electric motor installation.For another great article about all the other stuff that goes into a motor installation,

you might want to read “Balance of System” . The article is for an electric motorcycle set up, but the basics are similar enough.

One thing we learned very early on was that . . .

Volts (v) x amps (a) = watts (w) or v x a = w.

At first we thought (please don’t laugh we were total newbies)  that if we took 4 – 12V batteries with 125aH, and wired them in series, we would get a 48V bank with 500aH capacity. Obviously we forgot everything we learned in high school algebra. We soon resolved our mistake and learned that this formula is at the heart of everything electrical. As you can see, Watts are the thing you need to pay attention to. Remember high school physics? W=Work. Many appliances in your house, often things that produce heat, are rated in Watts, but marine stuff tends to rate things in Amps. Well, for our sake Watts are king. No matter what boat you have, it requires a certain amount of work (Watts) to push it through the water at any given speed. So, your job is to charge, store and supply to the motor a similar amount of wattage in order for your boat to move. The more watts you can store, the longer you can push your boat.

“The more watts you can store, the longer you can push your boat.”

As mentioned before, our motor is a SEPEX motor. This meant that the field and armature needed 2 separate voltages in order for the motor to spin. The way we solved this problem was with two separate battery banks. The field is powered by the house bank at 12V. This bank consists of two deep cycle batteries wired in parallel giving us about 250Ah at 12V. So far, it has held up great. It powers everything onboard including the inverter and laptops. We use about 30Ah on a slow day at anchor, and around 70Ah when sailing or when we’re both using our laptops all day at anchor. The nice part, is that even on a cloudy day, our 480W solar bank can replenish that before dinnertime. But we’ll talk more about that in the next section, “CHARGING” below. 

The motor bank consists of 4 – 12V deep cycle batteries wired in series giving us about 125Ah @ 48V. This may not seem like much, but in the last month of sailing, we have logged over 1000 miles, including sailing 25 miles up the Cape Fear River, and have never depleted the motor bank more than 35%. That works out to drawing only 44Ah used. We’ll talk more about range and testing below in the “TESTING” section. 

There are many types of lead acid batteries on the market. Don’t get too invested in brand. Most of the batteries on the market today are made by the same two companies. Trojan seems to be the brand of choice for many. We found batteries for sale locally and for $100 each, including delivery, we couldn’t pass them up. We also knew that the flooded lead acid bank we installed is only temporary. Like we’ve said before, this whole “Electro-Beke” thing is really one big experiment. We have plans to install a LiFePO4 bank soon enough. But we’ll tell you all about that in the “WHAT’S NEXT” section below.

There are many inefficiencies in electrical systems, like heat. However, don’t worry about them too much. If you budget 30% power redundancy into your system, it will more than cover any losses from heat, or mechanical friction and so on.

Check out www.batterystuff.com . They have useful calculators for battery banks and solar, along with great information on different types of batteries and what they are used for.

Our Solar System . . .

Also doesn’t include pluto..

We have 480 watts of solar. Broken down into 2 – 240W panels at 24v wired in series to give us a nominal voltage of 48V. Did you get all that? Great! Steven, from Solar EV Systems , gave us a great deal on them, landing him a spot in our Uma Angels Family . There are a several types of solar panels, but as far as we can tell, any modern panel is efficient and well made. None are much more efficient that others, it’s more about the size of your mounting space, and the size of your wallet. The ones we have are made by Trina, They are not expensive, look well made and perform exactly as promised.PV (Photovoltaic, aka solar panel) modules have three different voltage ratings that are handy to understand:

• The nominal voltage of a panel could also be called the “conversational voltage.” When we talk about the voltage of the panels and the other components of the system, we’ll most often use the nominal voltage. Nominal voltage actually refers to the voltage of the battery that the module is best suited to charge; the term is a “leftover” from the days when solar panels were used only to charge batteries. The actual voltage output of the panel changes as lighting and temperature conditions change, so there’s never one specific voltage at which the panel operates. Nominal voltage allows us, at a glance, to make sure the panel is compatible with a given system without having to look at the exact voltage. Our panels have a nominal voltage of 24V. We wired them in series which gives us 48V. It reality, they put out about 75V on a sunny day. But our charge controller allows us to charge a battery bank from 48V all the way down to 12V with the same solar panel set up. We’ll talk more about our charge controller later.
• The second voltage rating is the maximum power voltage (Vmp). This is the highest voltage the panel can produce while connected to a system and operating at peak efficiency. As mentioned above, the max our panels will produce is around 75V, even though we talk about them as a 48V panel system.
• The third voltage is open circuit voltage (Voc). This is the maximum voltage that the panel can produce when not connected to an electrical circuit or system. Voc can be measured with a meter directly contacting the panel’s terminals or the ends of its built-in cables.

Panels also have two different current ratings: current at maximum power (Imp) and short circuit current (Isc), both listed in Amps. The maximum power current is similar to Vmp: it’s the maximum current available when the panel is operating at peak efficiency in a circuit. Ours can produce 35Amps at max efficiency, They consistently produce 30A on a sunny day and we’ve seen as much as 32A. Similar to Voc, the short circuit current is the current measurement your meter would show when in contact with the positive and negative terminals of the panel while not connected to a system or load.All these voltage ratings and current ratings are often found on the back of a panel. Use them to estimate how much power they will be able to produce.

Two rules of thumb:

• 1kW or solar will produce 4kWh/day
• Rated Watts / 3 will get you approximate Ah/d @ 12V.

So, according to this, our 480W panels should give us 160aH on an average day, which we’ve found to be quit accurate. Although, we’ve only ever needed more that 100Ah of charge on one occasion. So usually, our batteries are charged back up before lunch, and we spend the rest of the day on “float” charge.

Types of Panels

Monocrystalline.

These are single silicon cells grown into larger crystals, then cross-section cut into small wafers to form individual cells that are later joined together to form a solar panel. This cell type has high conversion efficiency which means it takes up less space on deck. These cells are generally not shadow protected and are often more expensive per watt.

Multicrystalline (Polycrystalline)

These cells are also single silicon cells constructed by utilizing multiple amounts of smaller crystals to form a cell. This cell type has very high conversion efficiency but is also not shadow protected. Although, you should really be installing any panel so it doesn’t get blocked by shadows throughout the day. It will drastically increase the output if you install them in a proper location.

Amorphous silicon

These are the most inexpensive to manufacture. They are produced by depositing an active silicon material on various substrates like stainless steel sheet. The conversion efficiency is not as good as the single crystal type, but Uni-Solar panels are this type of panel and are shadow protected. Shadow protected means that a panel continues to charge when part of the cells are in a shadow, like a stay, which is a great advantage on a sailboat.

Our Charge Controller . . .

Is at the heart of it all..

The next, and possibly most important component in our charging circuit, is our Midnite Solar KID charge controller. This thing is amazing. Midnite also joined our Uma Angels Family when we asked them to send us a controller and they agreed. We spent a lot of time researching solar charge controllers and learning all about PWM vs MPPT. Bottom line is, if you can afford it, get the MPPT controller. We chose the Kid because it’s just the most efficient at collecting power from your panels. It is also easy to program and understand. We currently run it at 12V and just rewire our motor bank to 12V when we need to charge it. However, we will soon be adding a smaller, simple 12V charger to the “load” circuit of the Kid. This will allow the Kid to be permanently charging the 48V house bank. But, when it is full, switch over to the “load” circuit and charge our house bank through the smaller controller. It may all sound too complicated now, but once it’s installed and working, we’ll be sure to share everything with you in more detail. 

“We have never gone 24hrs without fully charged batteries.”

On a boat, where space is at a premium, you need all the efficiency you can get. Right now, I’m sitting on the boat, it is overcast and raining outside, it’s noon and we’re getting around 100W of power in from our panels (about 8-9A @ 12V). Our house bank will be charged back up by dinnertime, same as the last few days, and we haven’t seen the sun all week. When it is sunny, our house bank is usually charged back up before we wake up in the morning. No we don’t wake up THAT early, usually around 10am, but seriously, if it’s sunny in the morning, we put 30+aH into our batteries before 10am. The charge controller runs silently, however it makes a tiny click when it switches from “resting” to “BulkMPPT”. Since on a boat, we’re attuned to every tiny sound, we usually here it click on and off a few times before the sun even rises. Mind you, it’s only putting in 0.5aH then, but still, the sun isn’t even over the horizon yet and we’re already charging our batteries. 

Check out “Step 26” when we install our solar panels and charge controller. 

The rule of thumb we used when designing our system is that 1 – 100W panel can charge a single deep cycle battery from 50% discharged in a single sunny day. So we have 6 batteries, so ideally we would have 600W of solar. Now, that just wasn’t practical for us, so we settled for 480W and it keeps up just fine. However, if we discharged our motor and house bank down 80% we would need about two sunny days to get them both topped back up fully. Or, about 4 rainy days. For us, this isn’t an issue since we typically use the motor for very short periods of time right before anchoring or when setting off for a multi day passage. So, by the time we need them again, their both fully charged and ready to go. If not, we’ll just hang out and drink a beer. So far it’s never been an issue or even come close to it. We have never gone 24hrs without fully charged batteries.

Many have suggested we have a small generator on board as a back up, just incase there is no sun for many days and our batteries are dead. So far, we have gone a full week without sun and our solar has kept up just fine. Although, we may design a system with the ability to be hooked up to a genset for extending motoring, like say the Panama Canal, so that if we ever needed to, we could just set a generator on deck for a few days and then get rid of it as soon as we’re done. But, for now the whole point was to get away from petrol dependance. 

So far, solar is our only means of power production. We do have plans to get working regeneration from the prop while sailing. The possibility is definitely there, and we have tested for voltage while sailing. But as of today, we haven’t hooked up a charge controller to it. Mainly because we just don’t need it…yet. Our power requirements are so minimal and we use the motor so little, that we haven’t bothered to hook it up yet. But, it is on our short to-do list. So stay tuned for future updates. 

HERE is a link to a great forum talking about solar systems, battery banks and how to balance them. 

How far can you motor? 

Maybe the most asked question we receive..

It’s a valid question for sure, and one that many have asked us. But, we have yet to find out. We are still early on in our testing phase of the experiment. We’ve used the motor many times but rarely for more than 10-15 min and never more than 30. It is also hard to find “ideal conditions” to test in. There either isn’t enough space, time or light. Or the tide and wind aren’t in our favor. Sounds like excuses we know, but it’s the truth. 

“We are in no hurry to go anywhere,  ever.” 

From what we have done, we can tell you this. Our max speed has been right at 4kts. but it was against a slight current, maybe 1kt max. So, that would mean our theoretical top speed is closer to 5kts. 

Here again, we haven’t actually found out. Mostly because without a tow boat right beside us, it would be dangerous to run out of power in the middle of a channel or bay where there are “calm conditions”. But, we’ve motored for 2 nautical miles at 3kts (with a 1kt tide in our favor) and it drained our batteries down to 70%. So, that would mean that in “ideal conditions” we could motor at 2kts for 6 nautical miles. Doesn’t sound like much, we know. But, with a favorable tide and even a slight favorable wind, we can extend that tremendously. We also wait for the wind and tide to be favorable and then just sail to where ever we need to go.

With limited area to mount solar panels and without a genset, we knew if we used more power that we could generate, we would always have dead batteries. So, from the beginning, we focused more on how much power we could consistently generate, and base our system off of that. To us, the meant using less, not necessarily making more. Our solar has kept up great so far, but our power needs have also been minimal. We have autopilot and a chart plotter that are always on when sailing. We also use our laptops constantly and run a small inverter for tools and small cooking appliances like blenders. We have all LED lights too. We don’t have a refrigerator yet or windlass. But they are on the short list. We also have yet to capture any power from the prop while sailing. So there is still room to capture more power if we need it. 

As we continue to sail further and upgrade and modify our system, we will also continue to update you on how it all works here. So keep a look out for updates on our Facebook page and in future videos.  

WHAT’S NEXT

We may have a spinning Motor . . .

But the fun has just begun..

Well, our motor works. It pushes our boat reliably. The Electro-Beke experiment is a success, at least in our eyes. Now the real fun begins. We’ve proven to ourselves that we can sail further that we thought and use the motor less than we originally planned. So, what’s next?

“We have a few more project on the list of upgrades and modifications.”

We have a few more projects on the list of upgrades and modifications. The first thing on the list is to rewire our system and remove the redundant components left over from the direct drive phase. After that, installing some better gauges and monitoring systems would be really nice. There is a “fuel gauge ” we would like to install for the motor bank and house bank. It is simple and relatively smart. It will give us an accurate state of charge in a quick glance. 

Next on the list will be installing a charge controller or developing a similar system to allow us to capture power from the spinning prop while under sail. Technically our motor is capable of it, and early tests have augmented this theory. We are currently working with a few companies to figure out what the best system will be. 

We also need to install a larger heat sink for our motor controller. The one that came with it is designed for air movement across its fins and is therefore undersized for our needs. However, we may be upgrading to a true SEPEX motor controller before long, so it will handle regeneration and would require a different heat sink anyway. 

The big ticket item on the list is to install a large LiFePO4 battery bank. We have our eyes out for a salvaged Nissan Leaf or Chevy Volt that still has its battery bank intact. We’ve seen them for sale before and would love to get our hands on one. LiFePO4s are much more stable than other types of Lithium Ion batteries. But, we’ll talk about that if and when we actually get our hands on some. 

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• Description
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• Included Components

Eliminate noxious diesel fumes, the cost of filling up at the pump, and enjoy your sailboat to the fullest with this DIY electric conversion Kit.  The 5KW Brushless Kit featuring a Motenergy brushless motor and a 48V Sevcon Controller that can produce up to 5KW continuous and is often used to replace 10-15hp combustion engines. T his system is best for boats up to 6,000 pounds displacement.

All our systems have reverse on-the-fly and contactor disable features. "Brushless" means that the motor does not have brushes that will wear out over time, nor will it be a dangerous source of ignition for on-board gas appliances. Larger boats may require a higher power AC or brushless motor. In the U.S. and Canada, brushed motors are only legal for marine use if onboard appliances and accessories use kerosene or diesel (not propane or gasoline) due to the potential for internal motor arcing.

The controller has a regen feature than can allow current to be put back into the batteries from the spinning prop while under sail. This depends on your sailing speed, prop design, and may not be possible in all applications, but is an adored feature for those who are able to use it.

Due to the high RPM of the brushless motor, we recommend the  5-10kW  Gear Reduction to improve efficiency, provide proper torque, cooling, and help prevent cavitation. A typical reduction is 2:1, but this ratio will depend on the required prop RPM needed to reach hull speed. Ideal reduction will enable the motor to spin your prop at the hull speed RPM of your prop when the motor is spinning at its max RPM. We program the ME1718 in our 5kw kit to spin around 3000 rpm Max, at 48v. 

What batteries should you use? Most customers are happy with sealed, deep cycle lead acid, sourced locally to save on shipping. Use 4 in series to get 48v, with a 100 Amp Hour capacity minimum. Larger capacity will give a longer run time.

Those of you that are still in the "research phase" of your conversion should visit one of the  Electric Boats Discussion Groups  and talk to others who are doing or have already done electric conversions.

* Lead time is approximately one week

* Please describe your battery pack so that we can program your motor controller to match - then you won't need to ship it back to us. Minimum battery information includes cell chemistry, amp hour rating, overall pack voltage, series cell count and arrangement.

* If you choose not to use a gear reduction, a thrust bearing in line with the prop shaft is required, since most motors are not rated for axial/thrust loads on the shaft. 

* Before you pull your old engine, support the prop shaft for reference so you can properly align the new system.

* A heatsink for the controller is recommended by the manufacturer, and is included in the kit.

Check out our instructional wiring video!

See the  CAN Translator page for a budget display option

Sevcon Sailboat Kit Instructions

Sevcon Sailboat Wiring Diagram with ET throttle

Sevcon Sailboat Wiring Diagram with Wigwag throttle

E-Boat Modeling Spreadsheet (.xls)  *Use this to calculate your power needs*

E-Boat Modeling Spreadsheet Manual (.pdf)

Vicprop Calculator

Motenergy ME1716/ME1718 Mechanical Drawing

Sevcon Gen 4 Controller Info

Included Components    (may vary based on kW rating and parts availability)

• Motenergy ME1718 Sealed Brushless Motor.
• Controller: 48V Sevcon G4827 (can also be programmed at 36v)
• 827 Display for Sevcon
• ET-134/126 directional throttle  - recommended if you plan to use an existing throttle lever. The  ET Actuator  (included) connects to your existing throttle cable. Optons: ET-134 has a Neutral Detent, ET-126 has a Spring Return. 
• Wigwag throttle lever - recommended if not reusing your existing lever
• PB-8 throttle and Fwd/Rev Switch
• Sealed Main Contactor
• Finned Aluminum Heatsink
• Every kit is individually bench tested
• Complete wire harness with 10ft key and throttle cable lengths
• Wiring instructions

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Do water and electricity mix? Rhode Island company bets that formula is the future of boating.

On a recent Friday morning, I hopped into my electric car in the driveway, drove to a marina in Salem, and boarded a 21-foot powerboat that — like my car — had been charging overnight.

As we put the House of Seven Gables behind us, we could barely hear the electric outboard motor attached to the boat’s rear end. Even after speeding up to 25 miles per hour, we could carry on a conversation at a normal volume.

Is this the future of boating?

While electric car sales have begun to take off — more than 1 million were sold in the US last year, according to Kelley Blue Book — marinas are still full of gas guzzlers.

And gas can be a big part of the expense of owning a boat. Matt Perry, a cabin cruiser owner who was watching us take the electric-powered boat for a test ride, said he might spend $300 on fuel over the course of a weekend on the water.

Flux Marine, based in Bristol, R.I., hopes to change that. Founded in 2018, it has raised nearly $16 million , but has sold only a handful of motors. The company’s new strategy is to pair its outboard with new boats made by Scout or Highfield, Flux’s first two partners. Flux was showing off one such boat last month at a sailing regatta in Marblehead and plans to exhibit at the Newport Boat Show in September.

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Electric motors have made a small splash in the boating world, but they’re mainly used to power dinghies that take boaters from a mooring or anchorage to shore, or small sailboats that need to be under power only for a short stretch. They rely on a portable battery that you can remove from the boat, and charge at home.

Still, they’re about five times more expensive than a gasoline-powered outboard. When I counted dinghies in part of the Salem marina, 17 had motors. Of those, four were electric.

But the Flux-powered boat, at 21 feet long, was the only large electric boat I could find in the marina. Boatbuilders such as Candela in Sweden and Navier in California have been designing new, fully electric boats, and others such as the engine suppliers Yamaha, Mercury, and Evoy are working on electric outboards similar to Flux’s.

Elco, based in Lake George, N.Y., has made electric boats since 1893 — when one big customer was the Chicago World’s Columbian Exposition — and has sold electric outboards since 2009.

So, Flux will not be the only supplier in the market by a long shot. But cofounder Daylin Frantin says the company is aiming for a sweet spot of enough power, speed, range, and charge time — at the right price.

The entire motor is sealed so saltwater doesn’t corrode the components. Instead of a fuel tank, the company’s boat-making partners leave an empty space where an 84-kilowatt-hour lithium-ion battery pack gets installed. (By comparison, a base-level Tesla Model 3 sedan, with a range of about 270 miles, comes with a 57-kilowatt battery pack.)

The company has 50 employees; a 2022 package of tax incentives from the state of Rhode Island set a target of 80 new employees by the end of 2024. Frantin said he feels good about hitting that number.

Electric boating has some advantages that could help it win over customers more quickly than electric vehicles. First, so-called shore power outlets already installed at most marinas can be used to charge batteries at a much lower cost than gassing up.

Second, electric motors produce much less noise and vibration — not to mention exhaust fumes, which is a real plus if you’re riding on an inner tube or water skis behind one. Third, maintenance costs may be lower over time because electric motors have fewer moving parts and don’t require oil.

The factors that could slow adoption include the same “range anxiety” that afflicts EV drivers: Will I have enough charge to go where I want, and come back? Some boaters will wait to see if the promised benefits prove out, and if the technology is reliable.

On my test ride in Salem, I kept an eye on the digital display in the boat’s cockpit that showed battery range. As we got ready to head out, sales manager Matt Murphy of Flux told me the range was between 30 and 75 miles, “depending on the number of passengers and how fast you’re going.” But once the boat got up to about 20 miles per hour — a brisk clip in a small boat like the Scout, but not blazingly fast — I watched the range dip to 19 miles (with the batteries at 94 percent full, and three people aboard).

Companies trying to electrify pleasure boating will be tested by strong currents, starting with customer demand. Lyle Butts of Bay Sails Marine in Wellfleet says he has rented out boats with electric motors for nearly 20 years, including a small electric-powered catamaran (without sails). But, Butts said, “I don’t get customers asking” for electric motors.

Another obstacle to adoption is physics: It’s much easier to power a car along a highway than it is to push a boat through water, said Larry Russo Jr., regional president at the boat dealer MarineMax. That means that boats use far more electricity to go a mile — and need more on-board battery storage — than a car.

Finally, there’s the price tag. The Scout powerboat I rode on sells for $120,000 with the Flux electric motor; a similarly equipped model with a Mercury 150-horsepower gas-powered motor costs $90,000. That’s a big difference.

As a result, Russo said, the transition in recreational boating from gas to electric is going to take a while.

“There will be a few early adopters who can afford it and think it’s cool,” Russo said. “But others will think, ‘If I’m going to spend that much more money, why don’t I just get a bigger boat?’”

Scott Kirsner can be reached at [email protected] . Follow him @ScottKirsner .

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Candela to deliver 8 electric foiling ferries to saudi arabia’s neom.

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With its largest order to date in the serial production of electric foiling vessels, Swedish ... [+] boatmaker Candela will deliver eight electric foiling ferries to Saudi Arabia's NEOM sustainable development along the Red Sea Coast.

Swedish boatmaker Candela is disrupting the ferry boat experience with its 12 passenger electric foiling ferry. Candela has agreed to provide the initial order of eight electric foiling ferries for the service network of the massive Saudi Arabian Red Sea Project NEOM . The boat was chosen for its advantages in speed, endurance, efficiency, sustainability, and a smooth, quiet ride.

Candela's model P-12 electric foiling ferries prove the perfect complement to the 10,270 square mile (26,500 square kilometer) development at NEOM, a zero-carbon, circular economy gigaproject on the Red Sea coast. The development, part of a larger collection of the Saudi Arabian Public Investment Fund's Saudi Vision 2030 undertaking, embraces sustainability throughout its master plan.

The Candela P-12 measures 40 feet (12 meters) in length with a 15 foot (4.5 meter) beam and can carry up to 30 seated passengers. It has a top speed of 30 knots and a 50 nautical mile range at 25 knots.

The interior of the Candela P-12 electric foiling ferry can be configured in a number of ways, from ... [+] regular seating to a luxurious lounge, accommodating a wide range of uses.

Candela's Unique Approach

Many companies put forth prototypes of foiling vessels, but Candela stands alone in the successful serial production of electric hydrofoil vessels delivered to customers, 70 and counting in the two generations of C-7 and C-8 models. Today, they are the only company in the world to undertake serial production of an electric foiling ferry, the P-12.

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Candela has undertaken the design and manufacture of all critical components in-house. The carbon fiber hulls, foils, and decks, along with the computers that run the flight systems, software like the user interface, and the C-POD motors used for propulsion are all produced by Candela, optimizing the process and assuring quality control.

The single critical component they do not make is the Polestar battery. The safety standards held by the automotive industry and the proven energy density allow Candela to scale production effectively using this proven technology.

The Candela C-POD Streamlined Motor

The patent Candela C-POD streamlined direct drive motors with contra-rotating propellers was ... [+] designed to operate under water. No gears, no transmission, no noise.

The Candela P-12 has low maintenance costs due to fewer moving parts, yielding a 3,000 hour service life for the Candela C-POD. The craft emits 97.5 percent less CO2 during its lifetime when compared to a similar sized conventional diesel vessel, according to a life cycle analysis performed by the KTH Royal Institute of Technology in Stockholm.

The design of the optimized power train results in a super compact, super efficient motor, according to Claes Bonde, Candela Senior Mechanical Engineer. The propulsion system places one motor in front and one aft, driving two propellers, contra-rotating for efficiency.

Everything has been made as simple and as streamlined as possible, reducing the size of both the motors and propellers. Speeds of both the motor and props are optimized, reducing tip speed in relation to rotational speed. That enables the C-POD to deliver the smallest, most efficient units that stay below the limit of cavitation even at high rotational speeds.

Tomas Löfwall, Senior Electrical Powertrain Engineer emphasizes that the motors are very robust with reduced complexity. The motors are passively cooled by seawater on the outer housing, requiring no gears and no oil. "Brilliant design is about reducing complexity," Löfwall says, "And this is what we have done."

Flight Controller Stabilization

Sensors along the perimeter of the ferry measure wave height, roll, and pitch data, sending information to the computer with adjustments made up to 100 times each minute. The result is a smooth ride, flying above the waterline, quietly and quickly.

The Candela P-12 electric foiling ferry can be configured to client needs, offering an efficient, ... [+] quiet, low maintenance method of water transit.

Candela foiling ferries use a computer-guided system to fly above the water, making up to 100 adjustments per second, working to remove friction from the hull/water interface. The Candela P-12 uses 80 percent less energy than conventional vessels with a speed of 25 knots and a duration of two hours of operation, earning it the distinction as the fastest electric passenger ship with the longest range.

"The P-12 is designed to create zero-emission water transport systems which have significant improvements over traditional water commuting” says Gustav Hasselskog, CEO and founder of Candela. Further, Hallselskog explains, "Unlike legacy systems with large, slow, and energy-inefficient conventional ferries, the Candela P-12 is a smaller and faster unit, allowing much more frequent departures and quicker journeys for passengers. All daily necessities and services will be just a short boat commute away.”

The Candela electric foiling ferry alongside the Candela C-8 electric hydrofoil leisure boat, both ... [+] offer smooth, efficient, quiet flights across the water. The C-8 can travel at 22 knots for 60 miles on a single charge.

Focused on improving current transit modes, Hasselskog states, "Our hydrofoil technology unlocks the potential of waterways, offering quicker, more comfortable, and cheaper journeys, reducing road congestion from Stockholm to New York to Bangkok."

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