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Yacht Crew Salaries: Complete Guide to What Yacht Crew Earn

It’s no secret that the impressive yacht crew salaries attract most people into the exclusive yachting world.

Junior deckhands or stewardesses can earn starting salaries of $3000 per month. With a few years of experience and some courses to back you up, this amount moves up towards $4000-$4500 per month!

In order to compile this superyacht crew salary guideline, I have taken 10 of the top yachting platforms and used all of their data, combined with my personal experience, to reach an average salary expectation for each position.

Table of Contents

How Much do you Make Working on a Yacht?

Yacht Captain Salary

• 20m-30m: $4000-$7500
• 30m-40m: $5500-$9500
• 40m-50m: $8000-$15000
• 50m-70m: $13000-$19000
• 70m+: $16500+

Requirements of a Yacht Captain

• Years of experience needed: 3-5 years of experience as Chief Officer/Mate and more than 5 years of experience as a Captain for larger yachts
• Minimum level of Qualification: 200ton licence which allows you to drive vessels below 200tons

The Captain has the highest level of responsibility onboard the yacht and hence they earn the most out of all the yacht crew salaries.

Captains are accountable for the overall safety of the yacht, crew members and guests.

They also handle daily operations of the yacht, guests, and owner liaison. They deal with management companies, port control, budgets, human resources, and many more tasks and logistics that make the job demanding and stressful.

On top of this, Captains are required to hold high levels of certifications depending on the size of the yacht they are driving.

Yacht Captain salaries can sky rocket with higher levels of qualifications.

If you are looking to become a Yacht Captain one day I recommend looking into the courses required so you can get started with licenses and sea time. It takes time to get there, but when you do it will be worth it.

Chief Officer Yacht Salary

• 30m-40m: $4000-$6000
• 40m-50m: $4500-$7500
• 50m-70m: $5500-$9000
• 70m+: $8000+

Requirements of a Chief Officer

• Years of experience needed: 3-5 Years
• Minimum level of qualification: Officer of the Watch

The Chief Officer is second in command to the Captain and is responsible for carrying out the Captain’s standing orders.

On smaller yachts, the Chief Officer is referred to as the Mate.

The Chief Officer is responsible for carrying out the safety duties onboard and assisting in the bridge with paperwork and navigational planning.

The Chief Officer is also responsible for leading and managing their deck team, ensuring crew are following their duties as well as managing the water sports and guest activities.

The salary of a Chief Officer depends heavily on the license held.

Bosun Yacht Salary

• Years of experience needed: 2-3 years
• Minimum level of qualification: Yacht Master Offshore
• A yacht Bosun salary can vary between $4000 and $6000.

Responsibilities of a Bosun

The Bosun is essentially the Lead Deckhand onboard. A lead deckhand salary on a larger vessel will be similar to that of a bosun salary on a smaller vessel.

This is an opportunity to step up from being a deckhand and gain some experience in a leadership role. This position is in place for larger yachts so that when the Officer is busy with bridge duties, someone is in charge on deck.

Yacht Deckhand Salary

Years of experience needed: 0

• Minimum level of qualification: None needed, however Power Boat Level 2 and Yacht Master offshore will put you at a great advantage
• Entry-level yacht crew salaries start at $3000 and can go as high as $4000/$4500.

Responsibilities of a Deckhand

A Deckhand is an entry-level role on a yacht.

You need to spend a few years (or less) as a Deckhand in order to learn and gain experience so that you can step up in the ranks and obtain your licenses.

This role will be very hands-on in maintaining the exterior of the yacht. Duties will include cleaning, polishing, varnishing, sanding, caulking, and any other maintenance work required.

Chief Steward / Chief Stewardess Salary

• 30m-40m :$4500-$5500
• 40m-50m :$5000-$7000
• 50m-70m- $5500-$8000
• 70m+: $7500+

Responsibilities of a Chief Stewardess/Steward

• Years of experience needed: 3-5 years
• Minimum level of qualification: Depending on the size of the vessel you may need courses such as Food Hygiene and Safety, Silver Service, WSET, or a Purser course

The Chief Stewardess or Steward is responsible for all the interior operations of the yacht .

They are responsible for managing the interior team, and ensuring the interior of the yacht is maintained to the highest standards. Besides cleaning and laundry schedules , this also includes provisioning for crew and guests, budgeting, accounting, and training of junior crew.

Steward or Stewardess Yacht Salary

• Minimum level of qualification: Depending on the size of the vessel you may need courses such as Food Hygiene and Safety and Silver Service
• Salaries start at $3000 and go up to $6000

Responsibilities of a Steward or Stewardess

A Stewardess/Steward is an entry-level position working within the interior of the yacht.

There are rankings within the interior (2nd, 3rd, 4th Steward/Stewardesses). As you spend more time in the industry, you will be promoted to higher ranks, and with that will come a better salary and more responsibility.

This role covers a range of tasks, including but not limited to housekeeping, laundry, bartending, table scaping, floral arrangements, serving, and hosting guests.

Engineer Yacht Salary

• 20m-30m: $4000-$5000
• 30m-40m: $4500-$6500
• 40m-50m: $6000-$8000
• 50m-70m: $7500-$11000
• 70m+: $9000+

Requirements of an Engineer

• Years of experience needed: 2-4 years in an engineering role onboard as Deck/Engineer or relevant land-based experience
• Minimum level of qualification: AEC

The Engineer onboard is responsible for all mechanical functioning and maintenance of the vessel. This is a very technical role that can pay well as you gain experience and obtain your licensing.

Yacht Chef Salary

• 20m-30m: $4000 – $5000
• 40m-50m: $5500 – $75000
• 50m-70m: $6500-$9500

Requirements of a Yacht Chef

• Years of experience needed: 3-5 years depending on previous experience
• Minimum level of qualification: Food Hygiene and Safety Level 2

The Chef is responsible for feeding the crew 2 to 3 healthy and sustainable meals a day. They are of course required to prepare meals for guests when onboard to the highest of standards.

In their day-to-day tasks, they will be responsible for their own provisioning of the galley, maintaining stocks, cleanliness, and hygiene of the galley.

The salary of the Yacht Chef varies depending on qualifications and experience.

Yacht Crew Salaries for Private vs Charter Yachts

There are two types of super yachts that require crew: Private and Charter yachts. The salaries for yacht crew differ slightly between the two.

Private Yacht

A private boat is owned by a single person or family who uses the yacht for their own purposes. They don’t charter it out and you can expect to have the same guests onboard for the duration of your contract.

The benefit of these programs is that you get to know your guests well so you may find it easier to manage their wants and needs.

You may also benefit from traveling to off-the-beaten-track locations as I have!

For yacht crew working on these private boats, you will usually not receive charter tips.

Charter Yacht

A charter boat is one that gets chartered out by guests. This operates as a business and also means you will have different guests for every trip. 

If you work on a charter boat you can expect to receive charter tips at the end of each charter. These are usually 10%-20% of the charter fee!

Considering these tips can be anywhere from $2000-$5000 per week depending on the size of the yacht, charter boats offer great earning potential and can skyrocket your salary as a yachtie.

Hi, my name is Lisa, a Chief Stewardess in the yachting industry with 10 years of experience, as well as 8 years of hospitality experience prior to that. Being in the yachting industry has been a whirlwind of adventure, growth, challenges and some of the best experiences of my life, and I am excited to share my knowledge and experiences with all of you.

How to Write the Perfect Yacht CV [With Template]

A day in the life of a yacht stewardess.

Essential Guides

Ocean Mapping

New to Yachting

• Apr 13, 2023

YPI CREW, a leading yacht crew recruitment company, has released its 2023 Yacht Crew Salaries Report following a positive and fast-paced year in yacht crew placement. The report outlines trends in the industry and emphasizes the importance of flexibility in attracting top talent.

2022 marked a significant shift in the yachting industry, as the effects of Covid-19 began to wane. One key trend that emerged was the extension of scheduled or rotational leave to positions outside of the engine room and the bridge. Crew members are increasingly focused on achieving a harmonious work-life balance, leading yachts to adapt their leave packages to remain competitive. Flexibility with regards to leave has become a key factor for all departments and allows for a larger pool of candidates who are fully committed to the yacht, its programme and owner.

Read the full Yacht Crew Salary Report HERE .

Both the Deck/Bosun's and the Interior/Galley Departments have witnessed a steady trend towards increased leave packages. Senior Stews, for example, now seek a minimum of 90 days leave, and 95% of Chief Stews look for full rotation. Stew Head of Departments have come to realize the benefits of scheduled or rotational leave, a perk that was once reserved for Engineers or Officer/Captains Departments. Additionally, and in order to compete with the larger yachts, an important number of yachts under 70metres are now also considering increased leave packages to secure top crew. It's important to note that the salaries listed in the report are median range salaries and can vary based on factors such as job-specific skills, professional qualifications, and experience.

YPI CREW now offers a bespoke service for our yacht clients to assist with salary reviews and comparative analysis. Contact Chloe Collet at [email protected] for any further information.

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2023/2024 Superyacht Crew Salary Guide

Whether you’re continuing a long-standing career, climbing the career ladder, or getting your feet wet for the first time, Dockwalk ’s Salary Guide provides the full picture when it comes to crew compensation. 

Salary is generally one of the top motivators for those looking for jobs in yachting, but it remains a closely guarded secret. Each year, the Dockwalk Salary Survey goes out to thousands of crewmembers and crew agencies across the world, gathering real-time salary feedback with the aim of creating greater transparency and understanding across the industry.

The 2024 Salary Survey is now closed. Check out the results in the September 2024 issue.

The Results of the 2023 Salary Survey

Our annual salary survey provided some unprecedented insights to what captains and crew earned in 2023.

The yachting industry is slowly returning to normal in the wake of the pandemic. Yachts are back to work around the world and many new ones are in the pipeline thanks to the surge in popularity the "social distant" yachting lifestyle has enjoyed. But, while this return to normalcy has opened up new crew jobs this year, crew themselves have been returning to the workplace in large numbers and competition has been fierce.

Many of the crew agents reported that crew wages largely are flat this year compared to last. Salaries went up in 2021 and 2022 when crew were in short supply, but now more crew are available than previously. While crew are demanding higher pay this year, they’re not necessarily receiving it, but some agents have seen salaries continue to rise since Covid. There are many factors that can affect the salary crew can expect, including where a yacht is based and the season.

The tables below show the “agency range,” which gives the average lows and highs of all ranges provided by the agencies, the “poll range,” where results from individual working captains and crew are tallied to show the lowest and highest of all the responses, and the “poll average” calculated from all the responses. Note that our figures do not account for longevity and experience, crew benefit packages, tips, or similar extra remuneration.

Not all positions with corresponding boat sizes had enough poll responses to be considered significant; those categories are marked with an asterisk to indicate if fewer than five crew responded in that size range for that position. Several categories had no or only one response, which is also noted.

To view the full table:

Dockwalk Salary Survey 2023 in USD and Euros

Get Onboard

Superyacht Training

How To Become A Superyacht Engineer

Thinking about pursuing a career as a superyacht engineer we show you how….

We frequently receive emails from students asking us, “How do I become a Superyacht Engineer?” “Are my trade skills transferable?” “What yacht training must I complete?” and “ What qualifi cations do I need? “. In this article, we break down these questions and explain exactly what steps you need to follow in order to become a super yacht engineer.

What is a Superyacht Engineer?

The crucial part of any yacht engineer job description is maintaining the mechanical and electrical operations of the yacht. The duties of an engineer range from maintaining and servicing generators, jet skis and powerboats to replacing oil filters, repairing water makers, monitoring air conditioning, AV, IT and even unblocking toilets. Whether you are new to the industry, or have worked on land as a plumber, carpenter or tradesman, anyone can become a super yacht engineer, provided they have completed the necessary courses.

The Engineering Department onboard a super yacht is quickly becoming one of the most desirable departments to work due to the rotation packages as well as the transferable skills land-based skills such as plumbing and carpentry . Senior Engineers are highly respected and are of a similar rank to the Captain as the yacht is unable to manoeuvre without them.

What are the Superyacht Engineering Courses and Qualifications?

Yacht engineering qualifications were introduced in February 2001 to provide an industry standard system of certification. The system allows all those who wish to pursue engineering careers to do so, no matter what their previous training is.

The Maritime and Coastguard Agency (MCA), have set out the basic course progression you will need to follow in order to work your way up from a Junior Engineer, to Chief Engineer onboard. This involves completing the  AEC , MEOL and Yacht 4, 3, 2 and 1 qualifications.

The qualifications you require include:

A mechanical, diesel or electrical background

Strong project management skills

Inventory maintenance experience

Understanding of different softwares

The Approved Engine Course (AEC) – the base minimum for superyacht engineers who wish to work on yachts over 24m LOA

The Marine Engine Operators Licence (MEOL)

Depending on the size of yacht you want to work on, you may need the following licenses.

– Yachts <200GT with up to 1500Kw in propulsive power:

Small Vessel Second Engineer (formerly Y4)

– Yachts <500GT with up to 3000Kw in propulsive power:

Small Vessel Chief Engineer (formerly Y3)

– Yachts <3000GT with up to 9000Kw in propulsive power:

Small Vessel Chief Engineer (formerly Y1/2)

or Officer of the Watch (Engineering) – usually gained from the commercial shipping industry

– Unlimited license:

Engineer Officer of the Watch – Unlimited

What is a typical yacht engineer salary?

Starting out as a 3rd or junior engineer, you can expect to earn anywhere from $3,000 to $6,500 per month, and as you move up the ranks to 2nd engineer this increases from $5,000 to $8,000.

In the top position, a chief yacht engineer salary can be anywhere between $8,500 to $13,500, depending on the size of the yacht, so if you want the big bucks then the engineering department is the way forward!

There is no average yacht engineer salary, with roles varying so much from yacht to yacht, however these figures are a guideline for what you can expect to earn. It is worth noting that obtaining your engineering qualifications takes time and is an expensive process, so be sure you are ready to commit to long hours of studying ahead. Check out our article on yachting salaries for more information.

What are the super yacht training package do you offer?

Once you have completed your STCW course and other basic safety training, you can look to expand your skill set to work on board in the super yacht industry.

We have put together an extensive Superyacht Engineering training program which is an ideal entry level introduction for those seeking to work on a yacht as an Engineer. Due to the longevity of the engineering department onboard, this is an excellent avenue to explore if you are looking for real career progression, rather than a gap year experience.

• Proficiency in Designated Security Duties (PDSD)
• RYA Powerboat Level 2

MCA Approved Engine Course (AEC1)

Interested in learning more?

If you are thinking about starting out as an engineer, you can read more about our  Superyacht Engineer Course  package.

You can complete these courses with us at Get Onboard Superyacht Academy in Cape Town. If you are interested in learning more, why not  speak to one of our expert consultants  who will happily answer any additional questions you may have.

Needing more?

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1. what are the basic requirements you need to be eligible to work in the yachting industry, 2. what is the stcw and why do i need it, 3. what is the eng1 medical certificate, 4. what land based experience will help me find a super yacht job, 5. what are the different departments onboard, 6. what crew training is required for me to work as a junior deckhand.

• Yachtmaster/Coastal Skipper Theory
• Yachtmaster/Coastal Practical
• Specialist Super Yacht Training Course (Deck Hand Training Course)
• RYA Power Boat Level II
• RYA Personal Watercraft Course
• RYA Competent Crew Certificate
• RYA Day Skipper Theory and Practical Certificates
• VHF Radio Operator’s License

7. What crew training is required for me to work as a junior stewardess?

• Stewardess Course
• MCA Food Safety Level 2

8. How do I book my training courses?

9. how do i get my first job on a yacht, 10. are these courses worth it, or am i just wasting my money, 11. will i get hired for my first job from south africa, 12. what is daywork, 13. what are the best locations to get a yacht job, 14. how much can a motor yacht stewardess or deckhand earn, 15. what are the negatives of working on a yacht, 16. what are the positives of working on a yacht, 17. is working on a super yacht for everyone, 18. what is the minimum age to work on a yacht, 19. is accommodation provided when i am completing my yacht training in cape town.

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Yacht crew positions : Hierarchy, Missions & Salaries explained

Like any well-run hotel, restaurant, or other luxury service, a crewed yacht needs organized structure and good management. Whether you’re staffing your own luxury vessel or looking for an exciting career working and traveling the world, you need to know how this structure works, and what you can expect to pay or earn and do in the various roles on board.

Every yacht is a little different, and organization may reflect the style of the captain or the demands of the owner. But the same jobs need to be done on almost every boat. Organized with ranks, heads of each division report to the Captain. It’s not a military-style organization, but there are parallels with merchant marine grades and structures.

Smaller yachts need fewer crew, and staff may wear multiple hats that cross more traditional divisions and may combine some jobs with others. Large yachts have more distinct divisions or subdivisions, with more specialization to divide tasks and manage staffing. The core skills are the same, but finding staff with the right blends to do the jobs is key. Crew with broader skills are highly sought after.

As a yacht owner, you shouldn’t have to worry about day-to-day management decisions or organizing all this. That’s why you have a captain, and it’s better to leave staffing decisions entirely up to him or her. But it’s still important to know what it is people you’re hiring do, why they’re there, and how many you need. You don’t want too many crew, or to be short-handed. An understanding of what your yacht needs helps you talk to the captain to keep your yacht running how you want it.

For those looking to break into yacht crew work, consider your skills and strengths, and what jobs appeal to you. You’ll need training before you work, and you can direct your job path through the training you seek. Your goal is a suitable position on a well-run yacht, so make yourself the most attractive candidate possible.

Yacht Work Life

Working on a yacht is also living on the yacht. Crew must have a space to sleep, food, and all the basics that any employee needs. Large yachts have space reserved for crew, and owners looking for quality crew should provide good working and living conditions. Your crew takes care of you, and you should take care of them.

Depending on where a yacht operates or what flag she flies, a variety of labor laws or rules may be in effect. These requirements may be for work visas, contracts and written agreements, and compliance with merchant and ship crew treaties and laws. Be prepared to have work and non-disclosure agreements between yacht and crew, though a few yachts skip this.

Seasonal Jobs

Many yacht positions are seasonal. Year-round employment is more likely for senior crew like the captain and department heads, but not all yachts see year-round use. And some yachts may use different crew in different locales between seasonal moves.

Any job listing should give seasonal information, with geographic information, the length of the season, and the prospects for year-round positions and repeat employment.

Hours, Salaries, and Expectations

Yacht crew is a service job at its core, and every yacht owner is looking for service-oriented people who understand how to deliver a hotel-quality living and restaurant-quality fine dining. Work experience in luxury hotels and restaurants is a big plus for some jobs, and makes breaking into yacht work easier.

Yacht work can be very demanding, with periods of intense work when the owner and guests or a charter party is on board. Long days aren’t uncommon, but often balance with slack time when the boat is empty of passengers. There is always work to be done, but there’s usually a chance for time off.

Most salaries are monthly, since many positions are seasonal. Pay ranges are commensurate with experience, rank, and responsibility. Private vessels usually offer higher base pay, as charter crew can earn tips on top of their base salary. Because of the demands of the lifestyle, compensation is good and you have minimal living expenses on board.

Benefits and Time Off

Because so many jobs are seasonal and may occur in different countries and locations, benefits offered to yacht crew vary widely. But it is not uncommon for crew to be offered health and accident insurance and a flight to the vessel. Living on board, you’ll get food, rooming (usually shared), basic toiletries, uniforms, and laundry. Yachts with a longer view may offer additional training to long-term prospects.

Time off is usually linked to boat use, and may be sporadic in-season or when the boat has the owner and guests on board. There will always be some time off, but it may be between very intense work periods.

Most crew jobs have an employment contract that meets the Maritime Labour Convention 2006 (MLC). This should spell out the contract period and duration, as well as salary, leave and time off, probationary periods, repatriation policies, and any other crucial details to meet the minimum international standards of crew welfare.

This contract should also contain shipboard policies on confidentiality and non-disclosures, drug and alcohol use on board, personal hygiene expectations, interpersonal relationships, and dispute resolution. Job expectations and requirements can also be included, with specific language about roles, tasks, and cooperation between divisions.

Note that all crew agreements will explicitly prohibit drug use on board, most limit alcohol consumption and ban hard liquor on board, and many boats have policies prohibiting intimate personal crew relationships. Because the crew is living on board full time and in close quarters, rules to maintain decorum and crew harmony may be in writing.

Training & Certificates

Two key certifications are required for yacht crew. Employers look for the STCW (Standards of Training, Certification and Watch-keeping for Seafarers) and the ENG1 (Seafarer Medical Certificate). Insurers generally require crew to have these two certifications or the equivalent.

The ENG1 isn’t a class. It’s a medical exam to ensure that the crew is physically fit to serve at sea and has no underlying conditions that may arise far from help. It’s best for prospective crew to secure the ENG1 before investing more time and money training.

STCW is a week-long class on the basics of onboard safety. This includes hands-on modules covering personal survival, fire safety, first aid and CPR, accident prevention, and security awareness. It needs to be refreshed every five years.

Shared, Hybrid, and Crossover Jobs

Larger vessels will have more defined duties and specific areas of responsibility. But smaller yachts may want the crew to have different roles in different situations. For example, a hybrid job description may read “3rd Engineer/Steward” and describe a role in engineering when the boat is empty but on inside crew when passengers are on board.

When hiring or seeking jobs be prepared to look for creative crossover skill sets to meet the needs of the vessel.

Extra Skills and Duties

Any extra skills outside the regular duties makes crew more attractive. From stewards who can teach yoga, give massages or play cocktail piano to deck crew who know how to water ski, SCUBA dive, or fish, anything that crew can bring to enhance the passenger experience adds value to the employee.

If you’re looking for a position, list the skills you’d be comfortable using. If a vessel owner is looking for something specific, spell it out and figure out how that special duty fits into the employee work day.

The Four Main Divisions

Most yacht crews break into four primary divisions which group related tasks and responsibilities together. While the grouping sounds like it’s by section of the boat, they’re really more functional. For example, stewards (Interior) will definitely serve meals, whether they’re in the main dining room or out on deck. Deckhands (deck) are going to be involved in painting, sanding, and varnish jobs anywhere on the boat.

The deck crew handles most of the exterior operations of the yacht, and runs it. Deck hands and crew keep the boat looking clean and shiny, and handling most vessel operations. This includes driving and operating the yacht, navigation, running all launches and ship’s craft, handling lines, and all maintenance and painting, washing, and shining.

2-Interior (or Inside)

Inside crew are primarily the stewards and housekeepers. Larger vessels will have a dedicated housekeeping staff separate from the stewards, but smaller vessels may not.

Stewards keep the interior clean, do all housekeeping, laundry, food and beverage service, cabin preparation, and anything else needed for the comfort of the passengers.

3-Engineering

Below decks, the engineering department ensures the safe and smooth running of all the ship’s machinery and electronics. Engineers are engine and systems specialists, and there will usually be a dedicated electronics expert. Most engineer jobs require professional training and certification.

Fine dining is a hallmark of the yachting experience, and a full-time galley crew prepares all meals for passengers and crew. The head chef plans the menus and provisions the boat, while junior chefs assist the head chef with meal preparation and keeping the galley spotless.

Yacht Job and Department Details

Departments are all organized in a hierarchy, with a department head reporting to the Captain. The clear chain of command makes for smooth operations, with all communications going up and down ranks. Junior staff will occasionally take instructions from other divisions as all crew is expected to help as needed. A captain or department head may organize staff differently, so reporting structures listed are guidelines only.

All salary ranges are monthly figures and are ranges based on yacht size and crew experience. Senior jobs on larger yachts have more responsibility than the same job title on yachts with smaller crews. Experienced crew are very desirable and can expect more pay for their positions.

Listed responsibilities are not exhaustive, and different yachts may allocate some jobs to different positions.

Read also: The yacht charter experience ladder

The Captain

The captain of the vessel is the overall decision maker for the yacht in all situations, including the safety of the vessel. The owner should leave the Captain responsible for operational decisions about hiring and staff and operating the ship. To become a captain requires years of experience and training, and a broad set of skills including yacht operations, personnel management, budgeting and finance. The captain works directly with the owner and owner’s representative, if the captain is not also acting as the representative.

On an organization chart, the Captain is usually placed in the deck division, but the Captain is always the senior-most crew on the yacht and all division heads report to the Captain.

Responsibilities include:

• Responsible for all navigation and running the yacht.
• Senior decision maker on all crew hiring.
• Manage repairs, refits, and yard work.
• Manage budgets and accounting. On larger yachts, this task ends more on the Purser, but the captain is always responsible.
• Ensure all paperwork, clearances, and legal requirements are completed.
• Primary contact with the owner or charter parties.

Reports to: The yacht owner

Salary Range: $6,000 to $22,000

The deckhands handle all the outside responsibilities of the ship, including cleaning and maintenance of the yacht and all the ship’s vessels and toys on board. Deck crew will have significant contact with passengers in this role, operating launches and delivering guests to and from shore and handling the toys.

All deck crew have watch responsibilities on passage, and daily responsibilities keeping the yacht pristine and clean. They will also do line handling and secure the yacht.

Deck department : Chief Mate/First Officer

The Chief Mate or First Officer is the second in command of the vessel, and left in charge when the Captain is not on board. The first mate has the requisite skills to stand in for the captain and run the yacht if needed and usually acts as the division head of the deck team.

The seamanship skills needed are similar to the Captain’s position.

• Primary safety officer for the yacht and all passengers and crew.
• Supervise and manage all operations on deck.
• Bridge watches on passage.
• Passage planning and navigation.

There may be additional mates on larger vessels, these 2nd, 3rd, etc. mates have similar responsibilities on rotation. But the first mate is senior and always second in command.

Reports to: Captain

Salary Range: $4,000 to $9,500 (First mate)

Second and more junior mates may earn $2,000 to $4,000

Deck department : Bosun

The Bosun is the senior deckhand and manages the junior hands on board. This will usually be the most experienced hand on board.

• Organizing all operations on deck.
• Coordinating the use, storing and launching of the ship’s boats, toys, and equipment.
• Managing the passerelle, watching passenger safety.
• Contact point for guest service on boats, toys, and trips to shore.

Reports to: First mate

Salary Range: $3,000 to $5,000

Deck department : Deckhands

Deckhands are constantly busy with maintenance, cleaning, polishing, and assisting guests as needed. They will assist other departments as needed or given special duties.

• Daily cleaning of the yacht’s exterior.
• Painting, varnishing, polishing.
• Line handling.
• Launching and operating dinghies and tenders.
• Repairs and carpentry.
• Helping guests as needed – everything from handling baggage and gear to embarking and disembarking.

Reports to: Bosun

Salary range: $1,300 to $3,000

Though every position on a yacht is service-oriented, the interior or inside crew provides the primary customer service. They will interact the most with the passengers daily, and they’re directly responsible for the quality of their experience on board.

Interior department : the Purser

The purser is the chief financial officer of the yacht and handles all the financial operations on board. Accounting, purchasing, payroll and hiring, and all money matters end up with the Purser. This is a senior staff position, and may be the interior department head. Smaller yachts may eliminate the purser’s job and add it to the captain’s and other senior staff duties.

Responsibilities Include:

• Accounting and bookkeeping for all financial transactions.
• Human resources and payroll.
• Handling logistics for all departments related to purchasing.
• Managing contracts.
• Event coordination, including off yacht bookings and payments.
• Primary administration of the boat’s business paperwork.
• Inventory and supply management.

Salary Range: $4,000 to $8,000

Interior department : The Chief Steward/ess

The chief steward or stewardess has primary responsibility for all service roles inside. Food and drink service, cabin preparation, and anything to do with helping the passengers be more comfortable and enjoy their stay. The chief steward will be inside crew with several years of experience.

The chief steward manages the interior staff, setting and enforcing vessel service standards. The chief steward ensures the crew delivers a five-star hospitality experience.

Chief Steward Responsibilities:

• Scheduling and training junior crew for meal and drink service and cabin preparation.
• Primary contact with guests for meals and drinks.
• Sommelier and wine service.
• Coordinate with the galley for meals and presentation.
• Decorate the interior, from flower arrangement to table settings.
• Arrange onshore activities and outings.

Reports to: Captain or Purser, depending on the yacht

Salary Range: $4,000 to $8,500

Stewards/Stewardesses

The stewards and stewardesses are the primary guest service staff. They will work closely with guests and passengers, and have daily contact with them as they meet most of their needs while on board.

Steward Responsibilities:

• Food and drink service.
• Room preparation and turndown service.
• Cleaning, polishing, housekeeping, and inside maintenance.
• Cabin detailing.
• Laundry, pressing, and folding.
• Help with outings, trips, debarkations.

Reports to: Chief Steward

Salary Range: $1,500 to $4,500

Housekeeping

Larger yachts may have a dedicated housekeeping and laundry staff. This will be part of the inside crew, under either the purser or the head steward. There may be a senior housekeeper, if there are more than one housekeeping crew on board.

Responsibilities are the cleaning and laundry portions of the steward’s job, and a laundry steward may spend most of her time inside the ship’s laundry.

An experienced Head of Housekeeping may earn from $4,500 to $7,000, while a Laundry Steward typically earns from $2,500 to $3,500.

Read also: CAN OWNING A YACHT TO CHARTER (REALLY) BE PROFITABLE?

Food service requirements on any yacht are high. Whether it’s a privately owned vessel or a charter, the expectations are always for top tier food service, with a variety of meals planned for the requirements of every passenger. Chefs and cooks prepare all meals on board for passengers and crew, but sometimes other interior crew may help with prep work or cleanup.

Smaller yachts have smaller galley crews, but the largest vessels may have an executive chef and several sous chefs. All chef positions require formal culinary training and experience, but cook positions are often entry level. Promotion from cook to chef is unusual without additional training.

Galley department : the Head / Executive Chef

On larger yachts, an Executive Chef will run the entire galley with the help of sous chefs and cooks. With an Executive Chef, there’s an expectation that the food and menus will be on a level with Michelin star-rated restaurants.

The executive chef brings a thorough understanding of food preparation and presentation, and moves food preparation past creative up to artistic. Job responsibilities are similar to a chef, but the job demands and the required experience and education are much higher.

Salary range: $7,000 to $11,000

The chef has overall responsibility for all meals on the yacht, from provisioning in remote places to hygiene and good safety. If there’s only one chef, she’s the head of the galley crew. Finding the best provisions in far away locations and making the best of local food availability is a major part of the job.

• Planning a delicious and varied menu for passengers.
• Sourcing all food and arranging transport to the yacht.
• Maintaining and operating within the galley budget.
• Preparing passenger meals with professional presentation and style.
• Cleaning and maintaining galley and galley equipment.
• Deliver menus and meals on time, while running an organized and spotless galley.

Galley department : Sous Chef

The sous chefs assist the chef in all aspects of running the galley, and may have independent assignments to plan and guest and crew meals. While not primarily responsible for provisioning, the sous chef will help with food selection, menu preparation, and planning. A sous chef must have formal culinary training.

Reports to: Head chef

Salary Range: $3,500 – $6,000.

Galley department : The Cook

Cooks may be entry-level positions or experienced, but do not require formal gastronomy education. They will assist the chef and sous chefs, cooking meals and dishes for guests and crew, helping with provisioning, and keeping the galley neat.

• Assist with provisioning and buying high-quality food from local sources.
• Follow all food handling and safety guidelines.
• Assist the head chef as needed, taking direction and guidance.
• Prepare guest and crew meals as required.
• Staying on top of galley inventories and supplies.

Salary Range: $2,500 to $3,500

Engineering

The engineering department keeps the yacht and all its systems working. Whether it’s the engines, electronics, air conditioning, or the plumbing – it’s up to engineering to keep it running.

There is considerable overlap with commercial shipping in the engineering field, as many of the same skills apply. And there is a broader range of qualifications and grades based on the size and power of the vessel. Job ratings may be set by required experience based on tonnage of ship or power of engines, with corresponding levels of pay and responsibility.

Unlike commercial shipping, engineers may get involved in other aspects of running the yacht, like helping with docking and water sports with mechanical toys.

Engineering certifications, training, ratings, experience and licensing are critical to hiring competent engineers, and for engineering crew it’s an important facet of career advancement. This is important for Chief and 2nd Engineers, which are often broken out by MCA (U.K. Maritime and Coastguard Agency) rating or other international equivalent.

MCA ratings for engineers Commercial and Private Yachts over 24m are:

Y4: Less than 200 Gross Tons and less than 1,500 kW engine power Y3: Less than 500 GT and 3,000 kW Y2: Less than 3,000 GT and 3,000 kW Y1: Less than 3,000 GT and 9,000 kW

There is also an unlimited rating for merchant vessels larger than the Y1 category. For discussing salary and responsibilities, we will include all ratings in one position description, but pay scales with the size of the yacht and any required higher ratings.

Chief Engineer

The chief engineer manages all aspects of keeping the yacht and its systems running. The chief engineer manages all the engineering staff, and directs all maintenance, repairs, troubleshooting and upgrades. This is a management position, but requires extensive hands-on technical experience and knowledge. Chief engineers on large yachts hold an MCA Y1 or Y2, smaller boats will have a lower rated chief and a smaller staff. Check  Jooble.org  to find abroad marine engineer vacancies.

• Provisioning, shopping, and stocking.
• Preparing passenger and crew meals.
• Following instructions and cooking under the direction of others.
• Galley cleaning.
• Follow food safety and storage procedures.
• Food pre-preparation.

Salary Range: $6,000 to $15,000

2nd Engineer

The second engineer is also a highly skilled position requiring a rating or license and several years of experience. This senior level engineer also needs knowledge of how to troubleshoot and maintain all yacht systems.

• Maintain and manage all engineering operations.
• Hire, train and supervise all engineers.
• Project manage all upgrades and retrofits, including managing budgets, contracts, and suppliers.
• Coordinate maintenance schedule for the entire yacht around the usage and seasonal schedules.
• Maintain costs and accounting for engineering operations.
• Design and handle all safety operations.
• Set and maintain standards for operations and cleanliness in the engine room.

Reports to: Chief engineer

Salary Range: $5,500 – $10,000

OOW (Officer of the Watch) Engineer

The OOW is a junior engineering position, but still licensed. There are two categories of OOW – MEOL (Marine Engine Operator License) and the more junior AEC (Assistant Engine Course). The overall responsibilities are similar, working to support the senior engineers and handle independent assignments. The AEC rating is entry level for licensed crew, but has training and certification.

• Support the chief in all projects.
• Maintain a clean, safe engine room.
• Perform all maintenance, troubleshooting and repair tasks as needed.
• Support motorized water sports.
• Occasionally assist with other vessel operations, like line handling.

Reports to: Chief Engineer

Salary Range, MEOL: $4,500 to $6,000 Salary Range, AEC: $2,500 to $3,500

Electronics/Technology Officer (ETO)

The ETO takes responsibility for all audio-visual and information technology on board. Ensuring passengers have access to the internet, movies, television, and music is a primary responsibility. This position carries a fair amount of passenger interaction, and an ETO needs good troubleshooting skills to go with customer service skills.

• Ensure all audio/visual and entertainment systems are always available for passengers.
• Assist passengers with personal technology and ship systems as needed.
• Conduct regular maintenance and upgrades of the network, information, and A/V systems around passenger schedules.
• Assist other engineers as needed, especially with electronic systems.
• Contribute as needed with other departments for boat and passenger operations.

Salary Range: $4,000 to $9,000

Junior Engineer

This is a lower or entry level position for someone with engineering skills but without formal licensing or certification. The junior engineer will help with safety and cleanliness, and assist in any engineering tasks as needed. The ability to solve problems and fix things opens this spot for anyone capable and willing to do the job.

• Help with cleaning, maintenance, and safety functions.
• Help anywhere needed on the yacht.
• Assist senior engineers as needed, taking direction and following instructions exactly.
• Constantly develop skills.

Read also: IS BUYING A BOAT A BAD IDEA?

Whether you are a yacht owner or considering entering this dynamic industry with an established and reliable crew, it is essential to have an understanding of the yacht’s hierarchical structure, mission priorities, and salary expectations. By doing your research on the complexity of yachting before hiring your team, you can confidently select the right group of experienced and qualified professionals for your needs. Staying up-to-date on top industry trends and knowing the capabilities of each type of yacht crew position will enable you to make sound decisions that support a safe and cost-effective journey. With quality personnel at your helm, you can cruise unhindered in luxury and explore new destinations with peace of mind.

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Yacht Crew Salaries

Average starting salary guidelines.

The crew salaries reflected below have been derived from placement records and job orders for both power and sail, reflected as an average, received by Crewfinders within the past year and may change without notice.

Yacht Crew Positions and Salaries

The organisational structure onboard a superyacht follows a strong hierarchy based upon a military model. Exact job duties and lines of authority are set and strictly adhered to. This hierarchy is followed on the vast majority of yachts; however, responsibilities of the crew on smaller yachts are often merged.

There are four departments on yachts with clear organisational structure:

• Deck (including Bridge) – Safety, passage delivery, maintenance of the yacht's exterior, guest outdoor activities
• Engineering – Safety and smooth operational running of the yacht
• Interior – Housekeeping, guest wellbeing, activities, accounting
• Galley – Food preparation, stock control, hygiene, galley maintenance

The top of the hierarchy on each yacht is the Captain , who reports to the yacht owner either directly, or through a representative or a yacht management company.

Salaries vary and depend on the yacht size, use, type and location, as well as the experience and qualification of the crew member. We included typical salaries of crew based on the data available from reputable industry sources, as well as our research of over 60,000 crew registered with us.

Deck Positions

The primary duty of the Captain is the overall safe manning and operation of the yacht. Yacht Captain is responsible for the vessel, yacht crew, owner and guests, including personnel management, shipyard/project management, legal and regulatory compliance, accounting, achieving owners' objectives, and answers to the owner regarding all decisions.

First Mate / Chief Officer

The First Mate or Chief Officer is the right hand of the Captain. Takes command of the yacht from Captain when required. Shares Captain's responsibilities as required.

Bosun / Lead Deckhand

Bosuns are usually experienced Deckhands with additional responsibilities. They are in charge of Deckhands onboard the yacht and often spend a lot of time with guests during outdoor activities. The Bosun is normally the main tender driver.

Responsible for the maintenance of the exterior of the yacht and keeping it in pristine condition at all times. Deckhands also assist in maintaining, cleaning and operating yacht's tenders.

Engineering Positions

Chief engineer.

Responsible for the Engineering Department and for all technical aspects of the boat and its equipment. The Chief Engineer's duties include overseeing all mechanical and electrical operations, ensuring all planned maintenance takes place and liaising with subcontractors.

Second / Third Engineer

The Second and Third Engineers report directly to the Chief Engineer. They assist in maintaining all mechanical and electrical operations of the yacht.

ETO / AV/IT Officer

Electro-Technical Officer (ETO) and AV/IT Officer are in charge of daily maintenance of all electronic, computer, audio/visual and communications equipment and their efficient operation. This includes the radio, radar, telephones, satellite communications, navigation systems, computers, Internet connection, interior equipment (TVs, sound systems), etc.

Electrician

The Electrician is responsible for maintenance of all electrical circuits onboard the vessel, circuit breakers, switches, lighting, batteries, etc.

This is an administrative position on large yachts. The Purser is responsible for all operations in the interior department, including inventory, purchasing, provisioning, accounting, organising guest activities, and assisting the Captain with the yachts paperwork.

Chief Steward(ess)

Duties are similar to those of other Steward(ess)es onboard the boat, but on a more senior level, including managing the interior department and training. Small yachts with less crew do not have a Purser. The Chief Steward(ess) is in charge of all the responsibilities normally carried out by the Purser on large yachts.

Steward(ess)

Steward's or Stewardess's main responsibility is to maintain the interior of the yacht and provide the highest standard of care to the owner and guests. They serve food and drinks, prepare guest activities, pack and unpack luggage and are on call for anything that the guests want anytime day or night. On some yachts, they help the deck crew moor the yacht.

The Head/Executive Chef onboard a luxury superyacht is a culinary trained professional responsible for the overall management of the galley department on larger yachts, including guest and crew meals, provisioning, food safety, maintaining strict hygiene standards and financial/budgetary administration.

Assists the Head Chef in all aspects of galley duties. The Sous Chef may be required to independently provide crew meals or guest meals at the direction of the Head Chef.

Crew Chef / Cook

Large yachts employ a separate crew and guest chef. The Crew chef provides meals for the crew.

Other Positions

Many yachts, especially the large ones, have several additional positions. These are often combined with primary roles, e.g. Stewardess / Masseuse or Deckhand / Dive Instructor . The most common are:

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Yacht Crew Agency / Candidates / Yacht Salaries Guide

Yacht Salaries Guide

Many of our candidates are asking us for advice on what their salary should be on a yacht.

We have prepared a table of approximate wages in the yachting industry. Even though these salaries may give you a reference point, we would like to inform you that all yachts are different, equally as their owners.

These salary rates are based on the current state of the employment market in yachting in 2024. Real wages always vary depending on the candidate’s experience, training, certificates and additional skills.

Different Salaries of Yacht Crew Jobs

People working on a yacht can earn extras.

Tips are another big financial reward for the team of the superyacht to be rewarded. Specially operating on a charter yacht gives crew a great chance to earn extra money, but how much is expected? It is up to it. Common tips vary from 5% to 20% of the charter cost, sharing about 10% and split by all crewmembers.

Living on a private yacht cannot provide all such advice, but it has its own crew benefits, including greater rest, longer vacations, rewards and also the prospect of the owner’s unexpected donations. Such proprietors are often considered to tip.

Different Position in a Yacht Crew, Different Salary

Without a doubt, each position has a different monthly income. So the higher position you will get the higher salary you will get. Here are an overview about some positions on a yacht.

The Captain must be skilled and trained in maritime affairs, outstanding navigational knowledge, exceptional administration, coordination, strategy and diplomacy. A Superyacht Captain will have outstanding nautical expertise, repairs, electronics, professional procedures and accounting, Finance and administrative records knowledge. A captain must have a cool, charismatic demeanor and must be exceptionally competent to work with men, staff and visitors. Average monthly salary : 60ft (18m) à 2,200€ – 3,700€

During the captain’s absence, the Chief Officer / First Mate will have the captain’s good management and interpersonal abilities and outstanding experience and procedures in ISM and ISPS. The CEO will be someone with a solid history in deck work from prior practice with Deckhand or Boson. Average monthly salary : 60ft < 75ft (23m) à 2,200€ – 3,000€

Under the command and control of the commander, the chief steward must perform his or her duties. The head chef may therefore train and prescribe some lower level stews under his command, as the sole responsible for the interior of the vessel and for offering a satisfactory hospitality service to fulfill the holidaymakers ‘needs. Excellent support, networking and management are a must, as is an innovative environment. Average monthly salary : 100ft (33m) – 140ft (43m) à 2,200€ – 3,000€ +

Morgan & Mallet Yacht Crew Agency helps all yachting professionals find the best job and create a career in yachting

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Yacht engineer salary in california.

How much does a Yacht Engineer make in California? The salary range for a Yacht Engineer job is from $85,185 to $115,813 per year in California. Click on the filter to check out Yacht Engineer job salaries by hourly, weekly, biweekly, semimonthly, monthly, and yearly.

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According to the Safety of Life at Sea (SOLAS) convention, it is the responsibility of the Yachts Chief Engineer to look after the safety of maritime professionals and other Engineers working in the engine room.

Holding an AEC certificate will allow you to be a chief engineer on a yacht over 24m and less than 200 Gross Tons or act as an assistant engineer on vessels over 200 GT up to 60NM from a safe haven.

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North Ossetia – Birthplace of Mystical Alania

Snow-capped mountains, deep gorges, popular shrines of traditional Ossetian religion, ancient watch tower, Dargvas, the city of dead and the most pleasant capital Vladikavkaz. Yes, rattling off all of North Ossetia’s wonders leaves you breathless, like the natural beauty of this Russian Republic. The place breathes history . Starting with the Alans, ancient warriors of the Caucasus region to World War II, when the Germany attempt to grab the oilfields of the Caucasus region was stopped right there.

Ossetian countryside with an ancient watchtower, so typical for the Caucasus region

Vladikavkaz- Ruler of the Caucasus North Ossetia

It took me a while to pronounce the name of North Ossetia’s lovely capital Vladikavkaz  without difficulty. Only when a local explained its meaning „Ruler of the Caucasus “ , it rolled from my lips like honey . Founded in 1784 as a Russian fortress, it control led the only road linking Russia and Georgia at that time . I am not ashamed to admit that I had not heard of this town before I decided to do this trip. This city is only a two hours flight from Moscow and served as my jumping board for all onward travel.

Approaching Vladikavkaz by plane

The Saint Petersburg of the Cauacus

Vladikavkaz rightly prides itself of this title. T he streets of the Old City are lined with late grand 19th and early 20th century houses built for Russian army officers and merchants. I spent the hot parts of the days in Kosta Khetagurov Park

and strolled the banks of   River Terek in the evening , I visited picturesque churches and the most beautiful Mukhtarov Mosque .

Mukhtarov Mosque on the Banks of the River Terek

It sits right on the river and I first thought it was a church, since I had never before seen a mosque made of brick stones. I was invited inside by the caretaker , only when I saw the carpet after entering, I realized where I was . Arriving so totally unprepared without a headscarf and short sleeves irritated some men and I spent less time there than I would have liked.

Prospekt Mira (Peace Avenue) with ist 19th century houses

When I got tired of walking Vladikavkaz I hoped on a tram and enjoyed the quiet pace of provincial life from this perspective. Another highlight was watching families in the amusement park overlooking the river . Nobody seemed to be in a hurry. I watched life go by sitting on a tree-covered bench on car-free Prospekt Mira (Avenue of Peace), visited museums or hang out in cafes. Night life was not always, but sometimes is was great. Unforgettable a bar packed with young people, a small band was playing and a local celebrity grabbed the mike. A group of young ladies took me under their wings, and I left with cherished memories.

Vladikavkaz’s nightlife, great music and lovely people

The other must visit is a Retro USSR bar which has been operating for 100 years . People squash into small cubicles holding large mugs of beer that have to be picked up at the counter. Our little group was such a novelty that the regulars keep buying us so many drinks that we could not possible down them all.

Retro USSR bar, locals bought us so much beer we had to pass it on  

Hotel Vladikavkaz- great for people watching

The best place to view the snow-covered mountain peaks surrounding Vladikavkaz was from the Old Bridge or my room at Hotel Vladikavkaz , which was also overlooking Terek R iver and the amusement park . My most exciting moments on my balcony were the arrivals of weeding parties , which was quite a commotion.

Wedding Party arriving a Hotel Vladikavkaz

The convoy of expensive cars could be heard long before they pulled into the parking lots. The honking was deafening once they arrived, young beautiful women and middle aged men were then ushered into the hotel by friends and family clapping and singing. Once I sneaked into one of the posh parties, the noise of the music was earsplitting, and I was not sure if it was that much fun for most of the guests.

The location of the hotel is awesome and its veranda a place to linger forever (great WIFI) and do some serious people watching.

View from my hotel window, amusement park near River Terek

Caucasus wrestlers

Wrestling has a long tradition in the Caucasian Republics of Ossetia, Chechnya and Dagestan. Each has its own statistics that make it the number 1! By pure accident I learned that Vladikavkaz has a famous state-of-the-art wrestling academy. Nothing would have stopped me from visiting. I enjoyed an English-speaking tour through the premises, gyms, top equipment, sauna, pool. The academy hosts teams from all over the world also the USA, the fee is € 50 a day and kids a young as 9 years old start their training here. 

Wrestling Academy Vladikavkaz

Unfortunately, there was no training session while I visited, only a kind of rugby baske t ball match . Life in the region comes to a stand-still, when two champions fight each other in a tournament, especially if it one of them is American.

Wrestling Academy in Vladikavkaz

Vladikavkaz and the Caucasus in World War II  

On the outskirts of Vladikavkaz a memorial reminds of the Russian soldiers fallen in the battle of Vladikavkaz. Right beside the memorial is a huge mass grave, it was exactly here where the Germany army was stopped in the Caucaus . Hitler’s focus was on the rich oilfields of the Caucasus, which ironically supplied the German tanks and plane with fuel between 1939 and 1941. Before Hitler’s invasion of the USSR, Germany received 910.000 tons of oil from Stalin’s USSR, which made the quick advance of the German army and the use of its plane possible.

Words War II Memorial near Vladikavkaz, the front line was right there, this is how far the Germany army advanced

World War II Memorial near Vladikavkaz

Dargavs – The City of the Dead

A grassy hill dotted with little white huts was my first view of Dargavs. The two-hour drive from Vladikavkaz (US30 for the taxi) took me through stunning scenery, snow—capped mountains, greens meadows. Of course, I had prepared myself for this excursion, but I was still overwhelmed by this necropolis. A total of 95 stone crypts rise up the hillside in a very organized manner.  At the back of the complex is a watch tower whose top part has been destroyed. It is said that the tower was placed there to watch over the resting souls.

City of Dead, Dargavs 35 little crypts perched on a h ill

The tombs themselves are shaped like huts with curved roofs going inwards in steps and pointed peaks at the top, typical of Nakh architecture. If there is no pointed peak that means the family had no more surviving sun. The crypts tell even more about a family, the higher they were, the higher was their social status. The really big ones held up to 100 corpses.

City of Dead- Dargavs

The bodies were put in what looked little small canoes and shoved into the tiny opening. In some of the crypts you could peak through tiny openings and see the bones, some even wrapped in fabrics. I was told that until not too long ago the corpses wore rings and necklaces. Unbelievable, but recently visitors lost the respect for the dead and stole these precious bits, so the remaining jewelry was taken to a nearby museum. Actually, the site was closed down two months before my arrival, since visitors took photos of themselves with skulls. Only recently had it reopened.

Body were shoved into the structure in small wooden canoe-like coffins

The drive back to Vladikavkaz was equally spectacular, first through a small gorge following a river and then up an unpaved road with stunning vista of snowcapped mountains.

Ossetia’s countryside

Here in Dargavs I learned there were different types towers: Signal towers were high up in mountain and narrow. Towers served also as fortresses when under attack, they were wider and had up to three floors, since people found shelter there. Also amazing the time span they were being built, starting in the 5th century BC till 18th Century

Modern Monaster ies, Medieval R ock- F ortress and Pagan Saints

Not too far from Vladikavkaz is Fiagdon Monastery, an all-male monastery, which was only completed 2002. The monks collect herbs for making tea and produce cheese and honey. It looks way to modern but since I passed by I stopped to take a look.

our little gang that went to South and North Ossetia together

Much more interesting was the Medieval rock-fortress in the village of Dzivgis , which I would not have recognized as such, since it blends perfectly into the high cliff it was built in. In case of an attack the population of the whole gorge could find protection there.

Medival fortress

The Uastyrdzhi monument  catches the unknow traveler by surprise. In Ossetian folklore Uastyrdzhi   is the name of Saint George. He is the patron of the male sex and travellers. It is forbidden for women to pronounce his name, instead they must call him  “the saint of men”. When following the Ossetian Military Road along the River Ardon, it suddenly pops out of the rock. The horse’s hoof is 120 cm, and the palm of George can fit a man. But that is not all. Another place where he is worshipped looks like a church, especially since two small bells hung from a pole right next to it. The story goes that the people kept the bell but also their ancient belief. Since the end of the USSR the cult of Uastyrdzhi has enjoyed renewed popularity.

Uastyrdzhi Memorial = the name of Saint George.

Every year in fall lots of people gather for a big festival to celebrate Uastyrdzhi. The worshipping involved toasts made by an elderly from a wooden mug, who is assisted by two young men. Inside the small museum was a big painting of the very man with a long white beard riding a white horse, the mug and a chain hanging from the ceiling, so typcial for Ossetia.

Inside little museum where Uastyrdzhi is being worshipped

Three Days of September 2004 – The Siege of Beslan School Nr 1

Beslan is a small quiet town in the Russian Republic of North Ossetia in the Caucasus . Its streets are lined with brick-stone houses shaded by chestnut-trees, well-tended flower gardens adorn the front and vegetable gardens the back. Beslan could serve as a cliché-like model for a pastoral painting, if there had not been those 3 days in September 2004. On September 1st, t he gym of Beslan ’ s School Nr 1 became the epicenter of the hostage taking that resulted in the death of 335 mostly women and children three days later .

The former gym of Beslan School Nr 1, now a memorial to remind the 335 victims that were kept there for three days with water and food

In Beslan neighbors, family and friends sit outside their houses, chat and a random car or person go by. Children play in the street and a stranger like me walking by causes attention. When I took photos of the flower gardens, some locals were so touched, they took me inside to show me the gardens behind, I was offered food, teach and sweets. 

Beslan: beautiful flower gardens in front of the houses

Local family invited me for lunch and showed off their garden

I stayed with a family who fed me during my three day stay since I could not detect any eatery. The woman had learned some basic English and with google translator we managed to communicate.

Natascha cooking in the super hot little kitchen

Tiny tables, require creativity, stool goes sideways

On September 1 st , 2004, n eatly dressed children with balloons and flowers arrived for the traditional first day-of-school ceremony accompanied by parents and relative s . This moment of joy and happiness suddenly turned into a unparallel ed drama that lasted for three day:  more than 1100 children, parents and teachers were taken hostage by a terrorist group demanding independence for Chechnya.

Water bottled remind of the relentless thirst the children and adults suffered from

Forced into the gym where temperatures reached 40 degrees, the hostages were denied water and food, while the over 30 terrorists planted bombs all over the building. On the third day in an abysmal chaos of explosions, fire and gunshots 335 people were killed. In the video „The Children of Beslan“ children who survived remember those three days, the best documentary in my eyes. Unfiltered, the children talk about what seems unspeakable.

The former gym of Beslan school Nr 1.

In the few sequences of the video that show the end of the siege, even the most uninformed viewer immediately realizes the absolute chaos that dominated the event. To this day, countless questions of the parents have remained unanswered.

Photos of the victims on the wall of the Former gym, most of them children, give the horrid numbers a face

The victims were buried in a new cemetery a bit outside of Beslan, all the tomb stone are made of the same stone, symbolizing the same tragic fate. I passed one grave with five tomb stones, all members of the same family. It is impossible to comprehend the grief and pain that still haunts Beslan.

Another tragic story of is the one of Vitaly Kaloyev , an architect and native of Vladikavkaz. He lost lost his wife and two small children when  two planes collided mid-air over Germany on June 1, 2002. Kaloyev held Peter Nielsen, the sole air traffic controller in Switzerland who was handling traffic the night of the collision, responsible. In 2004, Kaloyev travelled to the Swiss  town of Knoten where he killed Nielsen, who had since retired from air traffic work.

Later, after his release from prison, Kaloyev was appointed deputy minister of construction of North Ossetia-Alania . In 2016, upon retirement from the local Ossetian government, Kaloyev was awarded the highest regional medal by that government, the medal “To the Glory of Ossetia”. The medal is awarded for the highest achievements, improving the living conditions of the inhabitants of the region, for educating the younger generation and maintaining law and order.

Vital Kaloyev touching the grave of his wife and two children

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Beslan , Dargavs , Fiagdon Monastery , Mukhtarov Mosque; Vladikavkaz , Uastyrdzhi , Vladikavkaz , Wrestling Academy

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