yacht topping lift

How to Use a Topping Lift

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The Topping Lift

Tom Lochhaas

When the mainsail is raised on a sloop, the sail itself holds up the boom. As the mainsheet (and optionally, a boom vang) pulls down on the boom, along with gravity, the sail is pulled taut. But when the sail is lowered, the topping lift on most sailboats holds up the boom. Otherwise, the boom would fall down into the cockpit, becoming a hazard to people there and stressing the gooseneck that connects the inboard end of the boom to the mast.

Most sailboats have a traditional topping lift to perform this function, whole some boats use a newer rigid vang to hold up the boom . Shown in this photo is an adjustable topping lift from the outboard end of the boom to the masthead. (The mainsail is reefed in this example.)

On some boats, the topping lift is fixed, having been set to hold the boom up when the sail is lowered but not so tight that it pulls the boom up when the sail is raised. For sailing, the boom should drop low enough to pull the sail tight. Often the topping lift is adjustable, however, allowing the sailor to raise the boom higher out of the way with the sail down and to ease the process of reefing the mainsail.

A Tight Topping Lift

In two situations you might want to tighten the topping lift such that the weight of the boom is supported by the topping lift rather than the sail itself. First, as previously mentioned, when you are about to lower the mainsail, you can tighten the topping lift to hold the boom up higher out of the way.

The second reason to tighten the topping lift is to prepare for reefing the mainsail. Reefing is the process of lowering the mainsail partway, to a reefing point, to use less sail area when the wind is blowing harder. Tightening the topping lift provides more slack in the sail itself, making it easier to lower the sail part way and secure the reef.

After raising or reefing the sail, however, it is necessary then to loosen the topping lift so that the weight of the boom pulls the sail tight. In the photo shown here, the topping lift is still too tight, causing bagginess in the bottom of the mainsail. This makes the sail very inefficient for sailing.

Topping Lift Properly Eased

With the mainsail fully raised or reefed, the topping lift should be just loose enough so that the boom pulls the sail taut. As shown in this photo, the topping lift now is looser and hangs limply on the near side of the sail’s luff (the trailing edge). The boom pulls down on the sail rather than against the topping lift. This allows the mainsail to achieve a good shape and to be trimmed well for sailing at different points of sail .

The topping lift should not be so loose that it flops around and may get snagged on sail battens or other rigging. Being just a little loose offers another advantage: if you forget to tighten it up before lowering the mainsail, the boom will not drop as far down—with less risk of hitting someone’s head!

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Sailing Techniques

Topping Lift: Types, Uses, and Adjustments

The topping lift is a crucial component in sailing, as it plays a vital role in maintaining sail shape, enhancing the boat’s performance, and ensuring overall safety. It supports the boom when the mainsail is lowered, or the boat is anchored or anchored.

With various types of topping lifts, such as fixed, adjustable, hydraulic, and mechanical systems, sailors can choose a system that best suits their boat and sailing style. This comprehensive guide will delve into their intricacies, types, functions, usage in various scenarios, and the importance of proper maintenance and material selection.

Key Takeaways

The topping lift is a crucial component of a sailing vessel, designed to support the boom when the mainsail is lowered or the boat is at anchor or moored.
Different types of topping lifts include fixed, adjustable, hydraulic, and mechanical systems, each with their own advantages and disadvantages.
Proper tension in the topping lift is essential for maintaining sail shape, optimizing performance, and ensuring safety.
The topping lift plays a vital role in various sailing scenarios, such as raising and lowering the mainsail, reefing, sailing downwind, and when the boat is anchored or moored.
Material selection for the topping lift line, such as polyester, Dyneema, or nylon, can impact durability, weight, and stretch characteristics.

What is a Topping Lift?

A topping lift is a vital yacht component designed to hold the boom when the mainsail is lowered or the boat is anchored . Its primary purpose is maintaining proper sail shape, enhancing the boat’s performance, and ensuring overall safety.

The system consists of a rope or wire (often used on larger or older boats) that runs from the top of the mast to the end of the boom . A block and tackle system is often used to adjust the tension, and secure attachment points are located at the masthead and boom.

Types of Topping Lifts

Fixed is a simpler option, consisting of a single line from the masthead to the boom’s end, with limited adjustment capabilities. While easy to install, their lack of adjustability can be a drawback in different conditions.

Simple design
Easy to install
Less expensive
Limited adjustment capabilities
It may not provide optimal support in varying conditions

Adjustable

Adjustable topping lifts offer better tension control for improved sail shape and performance. Their block and tackle system simplifies finding the ideal balance for your sailboat.

Why tension matters

It is crucial to maintain the correct tension. Too much tension can cause chafe and wear on the leech, while too little tension may cause the boom to sag and damage the sail or rigging.

Precise tension control
Improved sail shape and performance
Versatile for different sailing conditions
More complex design
It could be more expensive to install and maintain

Hydraulic and Mechanical

Hydraulic and mechanical devices offer improved control, precision, and convenience in managing tension.

Precision Control :

Allows for fine-tuning of tension
Calibrated adjustments for optimal sail shape and performance

Convenience :

Remote or cockpit-mounted controls
Enables adjustments without leaving the cockpit

Additional Considerations :

Cost: These systems can be more expensive initially and for ongoing maintenance.
Maintenance: Require regular inspection and maintenance, including fluid changes or lubrication.
Compatibility: This may not be compatible with all boat designs, rigging, or existing equipment, potentially requiring installation modifications.

The selection of a topping lift system depends on the boat size, type, and intended use.

How a Topping Lift Works

Supporting the boom.

When the main is lowered or not in use, the boom drops. This is where they come in handy. Connecting the masthead to the boom’s end is a supportive brace that prevents it from sagging excessively.

Maintaining Sail Shape

Proper shape and trim are essential and directly affect the boat’s performance and speed. The topping lift maintains the optimal sail shape by supporting the boom, which affects the leech (the aft edge) when the sail is raised. By allowing for tension adjustments, the topping lift helps ensure that the leech remains taut, preventing it from twisting or fluttering, which can reduce the sail’s efficiency.

Boom Support at Anchor or Moored

Their usefulness extends beyond sailing situations. When your sailboat is anchored or moored, the topping lift supports the boom, keeping it stable and preventing it from swinging.

Setup and Adjustment

Rigging the topping lift (masthead or backstay attachment).

Attach the line : Secure the line to the end of the boom using a shackle or a bowline knot .
Lead the line : Run the line through the block at the masthead or attach it to the backstay (depending on your boat’s setup).
Secure the line : Fasten the other end to a cleat or fitting on the mast.

Finding the balance:

Too slack : The boom sags, causing poor sail shape and chafing.
Too tight : The main is stretched, reducing its efficiency.

To adjust the tension:

Slacken the topping lift : Loosen the line while the mainsail is hoisted, allowing for a better sail shape.
Secure the line : Secure the line when the mainsail is lowered, supporting the boom.

Tips for Easy and Efficient Adjustments

Mark the line : Indicate the ideal tension for various sail settings with a marker or tape.
Use a block and tackle system : Make it easy to control tension and make more precise adjustments.

Adjusting Tension

Besides affecting sail shape, a topping lift tension impacts the boom height and sail area. You can raise or lower the boom through adjustment, which is useful in different wind conditions . In light winds, raising helps increase sail area and catch more wind. In strong winds, lowering reduces heeling and maintains control.

Using a winch on larger sailboats or in high winds makes precise adjustments easier. When flying a spinnaker, the topping lift may need adjustment for different sail shapes and positions. Always lift the boom high enough to avoid endangering crew or passengers.

Use in Various Sailing Scenarios

Raising the mainsail.

Easing : Before raising, slightly loosen the topping lift to avoid stretching the sail or putting unnecessary tension on the leech.
Hoist the mainsail : Raise it by pulling on the main halyard. Ensure the sail is properly set and there are no twists or tangles in the lines .
Secure the halyard : Once fully raised, secure the halyard and cleat it off or tie it to the attachment point.

Lowering the Mainsail

Tightening : Before lowering, tighten the topping lift to support the boom. This prevents the boom from sagging or swinging and helps protect it from damage.
Lower the sail : Release the halyard and carefully lower it, guiding it as it descends to ensure it doesn’t interfere.
Flake or fold the sail : As it is lowered, flake or fold it neatly on the boom or deck, depending on your boat’s setup and preferences.

Reefing the Mainsail

Loosening slightly : Before reefing , extend the lift slightly to allow for sail reduction.
Begin reefing the sail: With the topping line eased, initiate the process by partially lowering to the desired reef point.
Secure the reef points : Once the new tack and clew positions are secured, ensure the reef points are tied down or fastened properly.
Adjust the topping lift tension : Once completed, adjust the tension to maintain the proper sail shape.
Raise and secure the halyard : Once the process is complete, hoist the mainsail back to its proper position and secure it.

Sailing Downwind

Sailing Downwind : Monitor the topping lift tension and the mainsheet, which controls the angle of the mainsail to the wind. Adjust the tension and angle to maximize sail efficiency and maintain the ideal sail shape.
Wind Gusts : Be mindful of wind shifts and gusts, which can cause the boom to swing or the sail to luff , requiring further adjustments to the mainsheet and topping lift tension.

Heaving-to and Other Maneuvers

Ensure the topping lift is adjusted for proper sail shape : Before initiating any maneuver, ensure the tension is set appropriately to maintain the desired sail shape.
Perform the maneuver : With the tension properly set, carry out the intended maneuver, such as heaving-to, tacking, or jibing.
Monitor and adjust the topping lift tension : As you complete the maneuver and the yacht settles into its new position or sailing point , continue to monitor it. Be prepared to make any necessary adjustments.

When Anchored or Moored

Support the boom : When your boat is stationary, tighten the topping lift to ensure the boom is well-supported and held away from the deck.
Secure any loose lines to avoid chafing or tangling : With the boom supported, secure any other loose lines, such as halyards, sheets, or control lines.
Consider using a preventer or boom brake : If you’re concerned about the boom swinging while anchored or moored , consider using a preventer or boom brake. These devices help to control the boom’s movement and provide additional stability and safety.

Emergency Situations

In some situations, the topping lift can be a valuable backup option during emergencies. If you encounter a broken boom vang or other rigging failures, they might offer temporary support and help maintain sail shape and control until repairs can be made.

Topping Lift vs. Lazy Jacks

Lazy jacks are lines and attachments that help manage the main when raising or lowering it. They are designed to guide and contain the sail , preventing it from falling onto the deck or getting tangled in other lines and hardware. Lazy jacks create a controlled, organized process for raising and lowering, making it easier to handle the sail, especially in windy conditions or on larger boats.

Key Functions:

Guide and control the mainsail during raising and lowering
Prevent the sail from falling onto the deck or tangling with other lines
Simplify sail handling, particularly in challenging conditions or on larger boats

Rigid Vang: an Alternative to a Topping Lift

Boom support: A rigid vang offers strong support for the boom, similar to a topping lift. This helps maintain sail shape and prevents the boom from sagging or causing damage when the mainsail is lowered.

Eliminates the need for a separate line: By providing boom support, they remove the necessity for a separate topping line. This simplifies the rigging and reduces clutter on the mast and boom.

Additional features: Besides supporting the boom, they also serve as a boom vang , controlling the boom’s vertical motion and helping to shape the mainsail for better performance.

Higher cost: They can be more expensive. It typically requires a more complex mechanical or hydraulic system to provide the necessary support and adjustability.

Additional maintenance: Due to its mechanical nature, it requires regular inspection, maintenance, and potential replacement of parts to ensure its continued function and reliability. This can be more time-consuming and costly.

Compatibility with existing rigging: Depending on your boat’s design and rigging setup, a rigid vang may not be compatible or may require modifications to be properly installed. This can add complexity and expense to the upgrade process.

Preventing Chafing, Wear, and Maintenance

To reduce chafing between the line and the sail or spreaders:

Cushion the contact points with leather, chafe guards, or other abrasion-resistant materials.
Use low-friction blocks and rings to reduce wear on the line.
Choose a line made from abrasion-resistant materials.
Inspect the line, shackles, and blocks for wear, damage, or signs of chafing and replace them as needed.
Consult a rigging professional when installing, adjusting, or maintaining rigging, as improper handling may lead to equipment damage or safety hazards.

Material Selection

Choosing the right braided or stranded line material is essential for durability, weight, and stretch characteristics.

Polyester: Polyester lines are durable and have low stretch properties. They are also resistant to UV damage and abrasion, making them popular.

Dyneema/Spectra: These high-performance synthetic fibers offer excellent strength-to-weight ratios and low stretch properties. They are more expensive but provide superior performance and durability.

Nylon: Nylon lines are strong and have some stretch, which can benefit certain applications. However, they stretch higher than polyester or Dyneema lines and are more susceptible to UV damage.

In conclusion, understanding the role of the topping lift and its various types is essential. It supports the boom, maintains the sail shape, and contributes to the boat’s performance and safety. By learning how to set up and adjust the topping lift, sailors can optimize their vessels for different conditions and scenarios. Additionally, regular inspection, maintenance, and selection of suitable materials can prolong their life and ensure continued performance.

Q: What is the primary purpose of a topping lift?

A: Their primary purpose is to support the boom when the mainsail is lowered or the boat is at anchor or moored, which helps maintain sail shape and enhances the boat’s performance and safety.

Q: What are the different types?

A: The different types of topping lifts include fixed, adjustable, hydraulic, and mechanical.

Q: Why is proper tension important?

A: Proper tension is essential for maintaining sail shape, optimizing performance, and ensuring safety. Too much may lead to poor sail shape and decreased performance, while too little might cause the boom to sag, potentially damaging your sail or rigging.

Q: How often should I inspect and maintain them?

A: Regular inspection and maintenance are essential for ensuring its continued function and reliability. This includes checking for wear, chafing, and damage and inspecting hardware components such as shackles and blocks.

EPIRB: Emergency Distress Beacons for your Boat

Navionics night mode on ipad or android tablets, related posts, whisker pole sailing rig: techniques and tips, reefing a sail: a comprehensive guide, sail trim: speed, stability, and performance.

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The $tingy Sailor

Diy trailerable sailboat restoration and improvement without throwing your budget overboard.

Let Your Boom Off Its Leash With a Topping Lift

The standard equipment C-22 backstay pendant is simple and handy for holding up the boom when the mainsail is lowered. It also works fine to keep the boom more or less centered over the boat when docked or anchored. But it’s not very convenient for shorter crew members to reach and it won’t help you when reefing the mainsail. In fact, it can be downright dangerous for that. A better solution is an adjustable topping lift mounted on the boom within easier reach. It will also let the boom swing free of the backstay when you need to slack the main during reefing.

The classic way to make a topping lift is with a halyard similar to the mainsail halyard. But instead of attaching the shackle to the head of the mainsail, you attach it to the aft end of the boom. The working end of the line can be cleated at the mast or led aft to the cockpit. However, it requires mounting a block on the masthead, which means drilling and adding more lines and complication at the mast.

A better design doesn’t need a block at the masthead and it uses much less rope. It’s lighter and it can be adjusted from the cockpit like a pendant only easier. The design consists of two main parts: a stationary wire from the masthead to a point a couple of feet above the boom, and a two-part tackle between the end of the stationary wire and the end of the boom. It’s basically a smaller version of the backstay I describe in Upgrade Your Rig With a DIY Adjustable Backstay . In fact, if you upgrade to an adjustable backstay, a topping lift is almost a necessity.

Materials list

Here are the materials you need to complete this project:

23′ x 1/16″ vinyl coated life line wire with thimble eyes crimped on both ends
10′ x 1/4″ New England Ropes Sta Set rope or equivalent. A few feet more if you plan to splice an eye in the dead end instead of tying a knot.
Harken 224 micro bullet block crimped into one eye of the cable
Harken 233 micro cheek block & (2) #8 x 1/2″ stainless steel pan head tapping screws
Small eye strap & (2) #10 x 1/2″ stainless steel oval head tapping screws
Fairlead cleat & (2) #10 x 3/4″ stainless steel oval head tapping screws

The vinyl coated wire should measure approximately 21′ from eye to eye when finished. Purchase a couple of extra feet to work with while crimping the ends. To make the thimble eyes, ask to borrow the swaging bench at your local West Marine or other marine supply store. They typically cannot crimp the eyes for you due to liability reasons, but if you’re handy with tools, they’ll help you figure it out. It’s not difficult to do and the wire won’t be supporting a critical load anyway. Remember to install the micro block in one thimble before you crimp the end.

Instructions

To install this topping lift:

Attach the empty eye of the wire to the same pin at the masthead as the backstay. Both eyes should fit on the pin easily. If stretched out along the backstay, the end of the wire with the micro block attached should be at about the same location along the backstay as the point where the pendant is attached to the backstay if you have one. The block will be high enough above the boom to give you plenty of boom height adjustment but also low enough that the average crew member can grab it at the mast to reave the line when it is disconnected. If you currently have a pendant, you can leave the pendant attached or remove it.
At the aft end of the boom, use a portable electric drill to drill pilot holes and mount the eye strap on one side of the boom like in the picture below. Mount the micro cheek block on the opposite side of the boom like in the first picture. Mount the fairlead cleat about a foot forward of and on the same side of the boom as the micro cheek block, also in the first picture.
Attach the 1/4″ line to the eye strap with a spliced eye or bowline knot.
Lead the working end of the line up and reave it through the bullet block on the end of the wire, then down to and through the cheek block, forward along the boom, and through the fairlead cleat. Tie a stopper knot in the working end of the line to prevent it from pulling through the fairlead cleat, which would allow the boom to fall down.

The finished installation should look like the first and last pictures in this article.

AFTER - Port side of the two-part boom topping lift

If you already have hardware on the end of your boom, see the end of my m ainsail outhaul solution post for an example of how I organized mine.

To use the topping lift, release the line from the fairlead cleat, haul or ease the line to adjust the boom to the desired height, and recleat the line. Leave plenty of slack in it when under sail so that it doesn’t interfere with sail shape, particularly when trimming a boom vang .

Although the end of the boom isn’t heavy to start with even when the mainsail is bent on, the blocks reduce the effort needed to lift the boom by half, making it easy even for smaller crew members.

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More Articles From Online Book: Sail Handling and Rigging Made Easy:

Six Reasons To Leave The Cockpit Often
Don’t Forget About The Sails
Your Mainsail Is Your Friend
Hoisting the Mainsail Made Easy—Simplicity in Action
Reefs: How Many and How Deep
Reefing Made Easy
Reefing From The Cockpit 2.0—Thinking Things Through
Reefing Questions and Answers
A Dangerous Myth about Reefing
Mainsail Handling Made Easy with Lazyjacks
12 Reasons The Cutter Is A Great Offshore Voyaging Rig
Cutter Rig—Should You Buy or Convert?
Cutter Rig—Optimizing and/or Converting
Cruising Rigs—Sloop, Cutter, or Solent?
Sailboat Deck Layouts
The Case For Roller-Furling Headsails
The Case For Hank On Headsails
UV Protection For Roller Furling Sails
In-Mast, In-Boom, or Slab Reefing—Convenience and Reliability
In-Mast, In-Boom, or Slab Reefing —Performance, Cost and Safety
Making Life Easier—Roller Reefing/Furling
Making Life Easier—Storm Jib
Swept-Back Spreaders—We Just Don’t Get It!
Q&A: Staysail Stay: Roller Furling And Fixed Vs Hanks And Removable
Rigid Vangs
Rigging a Proper Preventer, Part 1
Amidships “Preventers”—A Bad Idea That Can Kill
Rigging a Proper Preventer—Part 2
Downwind Sailing, Tips and Tricks
Downwind Sailing—Poling Out The Jib
Setting and Striking a Spinnaker Made Easy and Safe
Ten Tips To Fix Weather Helm
Running Rigging Recommendations—Part 1
Running Rigging Recommendations—Part 2
Two Dangerous Rigging Mistakes
Rig Tuning, Part 1—Preparation
Rig Tuning, Part 2—Understanding Rake and Bend
Rig Tuning, Part 3—6 Steps to a Great Tune
Rig Tuning, Part 4—Mast Blocking, Stay Tension, and Spreaders
Rig Tuning, Part 5—Sailing Tune
12 Great Rigging Hacks
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Cruising Sailboat Spar Inspection
Cruising Sailboat Standing Rigging Inspection
Cruising Sailboat Running Rigging Inspection
Cruising Sailboat Rig Wiring and Lighting Inspection
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Download Cruising Sailboat Rig Checklist

Hmm. When you try to ease the main out, doesn’t the topping lift, now tethered to the backstay, keep the boom end from going all the way out? What am I missing? (I have a soft vang, but use your preferred method for my topping lift, without the shock cord. I have not suffered mainsail leech wear on long passages, but now you have me worried.)

Hi Terence,

The topping lift is not tethered to the backstay. Rather the shock cord that it looped around the topping lift then runs through a block on the backstay and down to the deck. Shock cord will happily stretch to at least double its original length so as the boom is let out the shock cord stretches and runs through the block as the topping lift moves away from the backstay. The result is the shock cord keeps a bit of tension on the topping lift to keep it tight and away from the leach, but nothing excessive.

You see this kind of use of shock cord on racing boats, particularly small ones, all the time. The secret is to run the shock cord a lot further than the distance you need it to stretch and recover, which is the reason for the block.

Small keelboats like SB3 use a stiff horizontal carbon batten at the masthead to hold the backstay (I assume) clear of the roach when slack. Might this not be neater?

Hi Richard,

Interesting idea. I guess it would depend on the geometry. The other issue would be if the batten extended past the back stay and then we jibed or tacked, the batten would be on the wrong side of the back stay. Given that, I think I would stick with the shock cord.

Good point. It’s resting position would have to be inside the backstay, angled downwards. I guess the batten could even be strapped to the top of the backstay with free end pointing downwards.

Hi Richard, I like the idea. I think one might need to test a bit to find potential problems, like backstay interference, as John mentioned, which I agree could be a problem, but may not be so. Perhaps that could be solved by having two battens, one on each side of the backstay, probably angled perhaps 60 degrees from each other, and then connecting them to the lift via a line between the two ends going through a ring on the boom lift? This type of solutions need more pondering and testing, so I don’t really know what I think of it yet.

We all know that topping lifts are a pain in the backside, but is the hack recommended in this article really worth the candle? If one was being picky, one might ask many sailors would need to have accidents with the necessary bosun’s chair before any advantages are outweighed? The fact is that tens of thousands of yachts make offshore passages and trans-At crossings every year and I’m not aware that topping lift damage to leaches is a hot topic wherever crews meet for beers at the end of their voyages.

Hi Peter, I think the reason that mainsail wear isn’t a big topic while drinking beer is predominantly that people focus on having done the passage and being happy. If they want to talk about problems, most of them have had more “dramatic” ones than some wear they haven’t noticed yet. I do notice that few boats report wear on the normally smooth passat winter passage from Europe to the Caribbean, while after the more northerly rougher return trip, few boats avoid significant damage and wear, including the main leech.

I also think that on an ocean cruiser, being able to get into the mast and work there safely is just as important as being able to swim.

Up to you, I guess. I used it for years on my old boat that had no boom gallows and found it well “worth the candle”.

As to the accidents argument, I can certainly see that view. On the other hand, I’m a firm believer that going up the mast safely is a basic and required seamanship skill, so for me at least, the argument does not work. For example, I go up the spar to check everything over before every ocean passage, and at least twice a year otherwise.

This reminds me of the bungee self-tailor idea of Hugo boss fame most recently. It went across his room then through a block to the mainsheet. I was wondering about doing that on a cruising boat, particularly a cat, when one might want to dump the main fast. If the handle is left in for convenience it can take a few seconds to do it if it’s in the normal self-tailor. Upon reflection a slip hitch would work too if there is something handy to tie it to. Off topic I know, anyway, carry on.

Hi Michael, I come from racing on extreme boats and love the idea from Alex Thomson’s Hugo Boss. However, I think it’s not very practical for cruisers. Extreme boats keep speeds that mean their main is always sheeted in quite hard, even going downwind. That means the actual sheet mostly doesn’t go in or out a very big distance. Also, on very long distance sailing, the wind angle stays mostly the same for a long time. I assume Alex has a moveable cleat on the sheet to adjust where the shock cord pulls on the sheet, for different wind situations. I think it looks brilliant for racing this way, but probably not suitable for most cruisers.

In the totally insane Formula 28 open construction multihull class, we used self tailing winches on the main sheet. The sheet was either held in the hand (in gusty situations) or put into the self tailer as normal and then returned back around the winch, below the handle. That way, to release totally we could just pull the rope to get it out of the self tailer and release the sheet completely. After grinding it in some, we had to pull the tail a bit to make the rope loop short.

The Formula 28 class was a very free ‘box rule” construction class. Number of hulls: Whatever. Weight: The lowest you can manage. Sail area: As you wish. Etc. In real life they were 28 foot long multihulls, 400 to 700 kilos, 880 to 1400 pounds total weight, upwind sail area just under 100 square meters 1100 square feet. Most teams had this as their full time job. Easily the craziest and fastest boats I have ever sailed. On Lake Garda, I’ve passed 35 knots boat speed, perhaps 40 knots, on one of those. Averaged over about 500 meters. This was in the 90ies, before foils. Yes, of course I was scared. 🙂 The point of going into this in detail, is to show that mainsail control was very sensitive. Also It might be entertaining for you and thinking about it makes me proud. 🙂

Notably, this type of boats all have rotating semi wing carbon masts and use an extremely powerful cunningham as the primary means of power control. Pulling it hard enough will bend the mast a lot, flatten the sail and loosen the leach for a good depower. The main sheet is for trimming angles and for emergencies. The above method worked well enough to become what all did, in this close to limitless class. That means it’s proven to be good. I use the same method on our cruising cat (not the turbo cunningham). No cleats or jammers allowed on the main sheet.

Thanks Stein, I have never sailed that fast but I’m learning wing foiling so I’m experiencing some serious sensation of speed, with very fun wipeouts. My thoughts on his bungee was that he was playing the main: grind and ease, grind and ease. I think of those times when the kids are around the cockpit table, sailing inshore with wind off the land so puffy, and a big one hits unexpectedly, and even though you’re not right at the winch you just push it into the winch a tad so the drinks don’t spill….. BTW that trick about bringing the tail around is great, I’ll have to try that next year.

Hi Michael,

Yes, I saw that too, very cool. Got me thinking that something like it could be used to tail a JSD on retrieval for a single hander.

Being an old time 505 sailor I just love shockcord hacks. We used to use a bunch of them.

There is one thing I like more than bungee hacks: magnet hacks. What if each batten included a magnet making a straight line where the tl wants to be, paired with spliced in magnets in said tl. If it’s windy enough to blow it off it’s windy enough to reef….

Interesting, but what about rust in the magnets. Also it would make the topping lift thrash around much worse due to the added mass.

We have a cat, with the boom quite close to the mast foot, so a vang isn’t really an option. We have the option 3 boom lift solution, using a 5 mm Dyneema spliced at both ends, attached at the mast head, with a 1:2 purchase at the bottom end using a Ronstan Shocks instead of a block. https://www.ronstan.com/shock-red-suits-10mm-3-8-line.html I strongly prefer this principle over blocks everywhere the rope is mostly not moving a lot. Other brands also make great alternatives, also for higher loads and lower friction, but are not as cheap and easy to get hold of.

We have the adjustment line led into the boom, as it’s equipped for 4 reefs and our present main only has 2. It can be locked in an integrated jammer at the mast end of the boom or, via 2 blocks, at the steering position.

That looks like a nice piece of kit. Would be good on the backstay to pass the shockcord through too.

We are sailing a performance cruising cat – Outremer 4X – and there is zero room for a vang and there is no backstay – I am torn between letting the Topping Lift stay a bit loose and swing or pulling it tight and accepting some chafe but less slapping – especially against the leech (North 3Di sails) which will not be simple or inexpensive to repair if damaged. The TL runs from the boom and is sheeted at the mast. Would a dyneema splice be an option? Less momentum/weight to slap around and much more slippery than the line on their now.

Hi Steve, I think I’d look at the idea Richard Richie suggests above; a batten at the top of your mast that pulls the topping lift up and aft. I guess you have a relatively big roach on your main, so the batten would need to be fairly long and stiff. Probably attached about horizontally in the unloaded state?

I’d strongly recommend changing to unsheathed Spectra / Dyneema, for its much lower weight, especially in wet conditions since it doesn’t draw water, and the smooth slippery surface that doesn’t chafe much.

I think you are right to worry about chafe on those 3Di sails.

If you mean joining to the existing topping lift (braid?) with a splice, then no, I know of no splice that will reliably join unsheathed Dyneema to braid. That said, why not source a full length line made of Dyneema core and Dacron sheath and strip the sheath for the point that it exits the mast to the boom end. You will need to secure the braid end to the core with a sailmaker’s whipping, see further reading above. Racing boats do this all the time to save weight.

Also, I wonder if you could still use the above hack from one back stay to keep the lift off the roach of that main? Might look a little odd when the boom was on the other side from the backstay with the block on it, but I think it will still work.

I like this better than my approach which involved attaching a pre-tensioned shock cord to the topping lift within the mast. It did work and kept the lift from slapping the leach and wrapping the back stay, but has the potential for snags..

Hi John and all, I went a little different route. My TL is fixed at the masthead and held with a lashing at the end of boom: basically, the TL is fixed in place and also in length at the beginning of the season and not adjusted during the season at all. This may not work for every boat as it demands the topping lift be just a scootch slack when the mainsail is really strapped down going to wind. And, following from this, the boom height at anchor is pretty much the same as close hauled sailing which also may not work for every boat or sailor, but has been fine for us. Not thinking about the TL’s adjustment is a blessing and it also pays dividends as my lazy jacks are set at season onset and never need adjusting. The older I get the less I like to think and to fuss. To control the TL when under sail, I have a thick shock cord (for good pressure) fixed a few feet up the TL and then brought to a turning block at boom end and run forward to mid-boom to give it length. It is tensioned at season onset as well and then left alone. In this way, the TL is under a moderate amount of tension when sailing and tends to just hold itself away from the sail (for the most part). I have used the above for a couple of decades, 2 ocean crossings and a lot of miles of coastal sailing in swell and not felt like my leach was chafed. Nor have there been comments from sailmakers who I try to get to inspect my sails on a yearly basis. It is a joy to not fuss with the TL or lazy jacks: once set at season onset, they are left for the season. My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

That’s interesting, but I think I would stick with an adjustable topping lift. My worry with leaving it fixed and that loose is that in very heavy weather when reaching or running and it comes time to put in the third reef the boom will droop while the reef is being put in and could catch a wave top. Not something that would happen often, but it only takes once. One of the things I like about slab reefing is that we can have rocker in the reefs so each one brings the boom a little further up, but to keep that positioning during a reef the lift must be tightened with each reef.

The other thing would be as a ex-sailmaker I just would not be able to stand watching the lift snap across the leach every time we tacked of jibed, whether the damage was real or just perceived. That said, if you have a lot of boom past the clew and not much roach, that might not happen, or not much.

Hi John, I think I follow you. When reefing off the wind, I try to have the boom end over (or near) the side of the boat where it is unlikely to catch a wave. Even with slippery track, it helps to not have the boom out farther as the sail will plaster on the spreaders. And, with a fixed topping lift, the boom end can never dip below that fixed length. I figure I use my third reef once, perhaps twice, per year and the last time the third reef was put in in the protected anchorage in anticipation of what was to come. When already out, I do not remember being concerned about dipping the boom end into the sea. When putting in the third reef, the halyard is loosened, the boom drops onto the topping lift, the tack is fixed and the clew is then positioned bringing the boom end up to its quite high third reef position and relieving the topping lift of its duty. The shock cord is keeping the topping lift from mis-behaving too badly. This has worked for me for years with no discernable damage occurring. That said, I believe your hack is really quite nice and a much better solution, especially for those who wish to be able to adjust the topping lift. I am really happy not to fuss with the topping lift or the lazy jack settings. I am thinking about using your hack into a hybrid system. Although my topping lift has not been a worry damage wise, I do not like anything to be flailing about as it certainly does when it pulls and tugs on the shock cord. Your hack could go a long way towards having the kind of settled controlled feeling that I like Alchemy to have when underway. My best, Dick

I agree, and this hack actually keeps he lift away from the leach, rather than just tensioning it.

Hi John, My TL is also my spare main halyard. It does take adjustment at times at the mast, but that is usually done after hoisting the main. It has worked well for a longtime.

Hi John, We have a beautiful Doyle fully battened laminate mainsail with a big roach (for a cruiser) and I so dislike looking up at the sail and seeing the topping lift slowly destroying the air-flow (especially in light winds), and the cloth! So this “hack” works for us, but I have to admit it is not an entirely original thought on my part, it coming after we set up our two-part preventers for offshore in 2017, following exactly your method. The standing parts of the preventers work and stow so well, it got me thinking how it could solve our topping lift problem. We have a Forespar solid vang, that has a super-strong internal spring. Even though our boom is heavy, we just don’t need a topping lift except at anchor in big winds, swell or waves to stop the boom moving around and making a noise. We don’t have boom gallows and we do like to have the TL ready as a back-up in case that spring were to fail, so usually either the main is up, or the TL rigged, or both. Offshore or on long coastal passages we remove the TL before setting off, but we can remove it underway also, using a boathook from the transom to catch the TL and bring it safely in reach. Our TL is in two parts. The top running part is conventionally adjusted, with double-plait rope and plenty of tail, that comes up through the mast and exits over a generous sheave at the top of the mast, and with a spliced loop on the end. The bottom standing part consists of a length of unsheathed spectra (same length as our boom) fixed at the aft end of the boom, and with a spliced loop in the free end. When rigged it is this Spectra part that is mostly in contact with the sail. Around the coast, these two parts are joined using a soft shackle and the TL operates conventionally from the cockpit by hand or winch. On passage the bottom spectra part is secured along the boom using a length of stretched out bungee cord sewn inside the plait. The upper (sheathed) part is secured using the soft shackle near the foot of the mast, and ready as our reserve halyard. We can then reconnect the TL underway, or on arrival by the mast, in complete safety. BR. Rob

Sounds like a good system, although more complex than a boom adjusted TL. Although you do get a spare halyard, as long as it’s strong enough. Either way, good that you have devised a system to stay away from the boom end. It’s all trade offs.

Hi Advice on accessing middle of back stay ?

A snatch block running on the stay and attached to the chair works well to keep you close to the stay. Also make sure you have a backup halyard. Reminds me I need to do a post on going aloft safely.

Hi John, I never found any chafe on the leach of my main although my old main had an enormous roach. The new main -2nd season this year – still has some roach, but much less. But I must admit that the TL wraps itself around one of the backstays frequently. This doesn’t disturb me, as it invariably frees itself when tensioned. It can be adjusted at the mast and serves as a spare halyard also. As my present main is quite new, why take a chance with chafe ? And I like the simplicity of your TL shock cord hack, so I’ll definitely rig it up next season. But now I come to think of it: Snowball has two backstays which angle from the mast top down to both counters. Well I think I will decide on just one of the staysto lash the block or ring to in the hope that the stretch in the shock cord will cover the additional way to lee when the boom is out on the “wrong” side. If that doesn’t work I will find a way to move the ring halfway between both stays. Btw: getting it rigged up there is no problem, as hereabouts we take the rig down every winter, a practise that I came to appreciate once more when I had to remove the standing rigging on a race boat in France that had never had her mast unstepped for more than ten years. Getting the ss bolts out of the aluminium spreader ends was just hell. Besides I think you are right: it should be nothing very special to go aloft and do work or inspection in the rig, not even for a singlehander. That boat had no topping lift and I hated the mains’l handling.

Is a modification needed for boats with SSB backstays?

Hi Tom, Shouldn’t think an insulated backstay for SSB would make a difference (at least for the traditional set-up: some newer antennas go over or beside the backstay). The antenna lead cable only goes up to the lower insulator and after that, there is only the upper insulator along the wire. I should think the shock cord attachment to the backstay would be between the two insulators and that the hack would work without problem. Nor would I suppose the additional equipment to change the antenna functioning. My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

Good question. I guess if the shock cord were wet and bridged the insulators there could be a bit of RF leakage, but my guess is not enough to matter.

My boat is quite small at 26 ft and the wooden boom is a fair bit longer than the foot of the sail which doesn’t have too much leach. Nevertheless, a long time ago I had to go up the mast returning from Iceland to recover a chafed topping lift which wore against the sheave entry on the mast. Of course I can sail easily enough without a topping lift, but I always like one rigged in case the main halyard fails. I like to use a three strand polyester line with a bit of stretch. This has the great advantage that when you are moored you can rig the boom tent roughly in position and then tighten down the mainsheet to tweak it so the boom is dead level.

To stop the topping lift flapping around, I get a 2 m length of 8 mm bungee with a snap hook seized on each end. Then about 1.2 m up the topping lift I tie a rolling hitch in the centre of the bungee and stretch the clips down and fasten them to the boom. When I ease off the topping lift the bungee allows a small loop of rope to form above the boom but keeps the rest of the rope tight and stops it from flapping about. Seems to work for me!

Hi Alasdair,

As you say, I think the key is that the boom extends past the clew and not much roach. Anyway, as long as it works, that’s the main thing.

An Englishman showed me what I believe is the safest topping lift arrangement. A line goes from the end of the boom, up to the masthead, then down the mast (inside?) and out to a mast winch or cleat. When the sail is raised, take a boat hook and catch the bight between the end of the boom and the masthead and lead the bight to a reefing hook on the forward end of the mast. The topping lift doesn’t have to be disconnected from the end of the boom. When dropping the mainsail, just release the bight from the reefing hook and pull the end that was attached to the cleat on the mast and tighten. Easy Peasy…

George system is not so uncommon on some older yachts, except topping lift at the boom end passes through a ring which is attached to a foot line. The line is pulled, the topping lift eased and the topping lift ends up stored along the foot of the boom and running from the ring back tot he truck at the mast head. It’s just a variation of what you mention without but without wielding the boat hook. I can imagine the topping lift frapping away on the mast, so hauling it off with a bungee cord to a shroud would solve that.

That’s interesting, but I have a hard time seeing how it’s easier than the solution in the article. We would have to go though this palaver with the boat hook every time we reefed. Other drawbacks I can see are that if the main halyard breaks or is let go the boom will crash into the cockpit (assuming no rigid vang) and also the topping lift when in the forward position on the reefing hook will almost certainly frap against the mast.

Sorry for the errors, I could only correct once… The end of the story: As we went to the Harbour Master to confess our sins, the only comment was: “This is something the municipality will take care of”… So if you still wonder; I still have the same topping lift, and yes, I am going to rebuild it!

A good story what might happen with a strong topping lift: 25-30 knots of wind , 2 reefs. On purpose reef 1 and 2 have rings so the boom gets higher over the cocpit for every reef. My backstay are split , and too often the topping lift is jammed in the wire-splitter- so did the mentioned day. Ss usual we were going to sail to the dock (almost 60-70 meter free space. Going downwind we prepared with fenders etc, furled the genoa, turned into the wind and eased the sheet, but alas, the wind was like reaching, so easing the sheet meant more speed! There was an apprentic steering, so I told him not to continue close to the dock, but he did not catch the order, and we were sailing along the dock with increasing speed. A light pole on the dock became very close, so the main was quick taken in to clear the pole. But alas, the boom passed the pole, but the bloody topping lift did catch just under the flood-light… Well, the boat (16 tons) came to an sudden stopp while bits and pieces from the pole was spread all over the place… As we dropped the sail an tied up, the two guys in the boat next to us, nearly dropped their cognac

Some editing issues, a phone is not the best when writing … John, please add a line between the text box and the “save/cancel/delte button. With a phone its almost inevitable to push the wrong button

Yikes, that beats any of my topping lift stories by a country mile.

As to changing. the edit. Good suggestion, but I’m working on a completely new comments system, so that should go away anyway. Hope to have it up later in the weak.

Last winter I worked with Brion Toss on replacing the standing rigging and updating some of the running rigging. (Mine was one of the last masts he un-stepped before he passed, and it was the first mast stepped by his shop under the new ownership of his longtime business partner Ian). Brion really dislike the standard topping lift on my 1984 Passport 40 — in my case, it dead-ended at the masthead and then ran through a dedicated sheave at the boom end, internal through the boom and exited close to the mast and belayed on a cleat on the boom.

As I had a sheave at the masthead for a spare main halyard, he had me use my spare halyard as my new topping lift by belaying it at the boom end. The spare halyard runs back to the cockpit, so it makes it a snap to adjust boom height while securing the boom when not in use. At dock or anchor — and normal cruising around the Pacific Northwest — I leave the spar halyard/topping lift belayed at the boom end. I’m planning to take the boat offshore next summer. After reading John’s post on rigid vangs (I just rebuilt my QuickVang from Halls and happy to say they had all the parts for it) I figured I needed a way to prevent chafe from the topping lift/halyard on longer passages under sail. I figured the best solution would be to just move the spare halyard from the boom end and connect it to a belay point on my radar arch.

I have tried this out and it provides lots of room to keep it off my leach. Seems like there is adequate clearance between the two halyards at the mast head when sailing off the wind.

Simple solution. But I haven’t really tried it yet offshore. Am I missing something?

As I say in the article above, I really don’t like the idea of removing the lift offshore since it will get you close to the dangerous boom end. That said, I missed that point the first time though too!

If 12 strand dyneema really causes less chaff, could one just use it instead of your hack, John? Or do we want some give in a topping lift? But I may do this anyway when spring commissioning comes.

Yes, I like a little give in things like this, so I would make the line along the boom Dacron braid. As to spectra obviating the need for the hack, It’s still going to flay around if kept loose enough not to be a problem (see post) so I still think the hack makes it better.

John, Having read about your setup, I understand that you propose to you loop and tie off the shock loosely around the topping lift. I could envisage that that creates a point of chafe between the cord and the topping lift rope. Have you considered the option of sliding a low friction ring onto the topping lift and then lash shock cord tight around the low friction ring. The ring will then slide smoothly along the topping lift as it moves. What disadvantages, do you see with this modification? Greetings!

Sure, you could do that. Back in the day when I used this hack on my old boat we did not have low friction rings. That said, I used it for several thousand miles over several years (at least four passages to and from Bermuda) and I don’t remember any issues in that area.

I like that solution and I think it will work a bit better than what I have typically done. I have taken a bungee from ~1/3 of the way up the topping lift and taken it back to a point as high as I can reach on the backstay, typically with a ring lashed there. This works but does promote the slack being at the bottom. I got the idea from seeing people do it similarly but to the end of the boom, my thought was that going to the backstay helped maintain more uniform tension. Your solution with the block likely fixes the geometry issue which promotes slack at the bottom.

I am a big fan of having the topping lift just be a second main halyard if at all possible. Our boat actually has 4 sheaves on the front of the mast and 2 on the aft end, all identical. I can’t imagine why we would use all of the ones forward so we keep up there a jib halyard, spinnaker halyard, main halyard and topping lift/spare main halyard.

The solutions that people have suggested that involve retrieving the topping lift with a line or boathook if you also have a rigid vang are quite clever, I had never thought about it. One of the most common questions we get about using davits is how we get the griping lines all the way around the dinghy and the answer is that we throw them over and then use a boathook to grab the line again.

One other thought on this. People should work to not have the boom drop too much when they drop the main both for the topping lift but also the lazyjacks as they will both get a lot of slack while sailing if there is too much difference. On the first sail of the season, we crank the mainsheet in all the way and then adjust these. When a reef is tucked, a bit more slack is generated but on the lazyjacks, at least there is sail now filling it out so we have never needed to adjust them.

Glad it works for you. And good point on getting everything set up without too much boom droop.

On the various solutions with a boat hook, the thing that worries me a bit is the practicality offshore. In my experience the less time we have to move around the deck with something awkward like a boat hook in our hands the better—increases the chances of falling a surprising amount when the motion is bad.

John any suggestions on accessing the mid portion of the back stay? Seems a bit tricky to me like you have to go up the mast then pass a line around the back stay and carefully ride the bosun chair back down to where you need to get. Is there any other advise you can offer on this detail? thanks Nick

Oops I see the earlier post addressing this question. No need to respond John. thanks

So John .. thx for a huge trick and info of your website… help me a lot in my refit project https://youtube.com/c/sea4see My question for you.. I for sure will use HM halyards .. in this article I understand that I need the fuse”.. previously I used dyneema sheet for Genoa and mainsail.. please could give me your advise to get the best setup for cruising sailing boAt sheet and halyards? Thx In Advance S/Y ellös

We have a a couple of chapters on running rigging recommendations, including the answers to your question in this Online Book: https://www.morganscloud.com/category/rigging-sails/book-sail-handling-rigging/

Hi, John. On the discussion of dead-ending at the boom end, any suggestions on how to dead-end? Currently my topping lift is hard shackled to the boom and the squeaking is driving me mad so I was just thinking of tying it or using a soft shackle. I can’t really see any reason for a quick release solution (except maybe to use it is a main halyard replacement but even then…).

Just another reason to hate topping lifts! Anyway, I could be wrong, but I’m not totally trusting of soft shackles in situations where the line goes slack but if you are using the hack in the article above I think it would be OK, particularly if you pass the soft shackle though twice, as I’m doing with the one attaching out jib sheets on our J/109.

Thanks, John and understood about passing the soft shackle through twice. I will be using your hack because the damn thing is driving me crazy flapping about up there. One thing I have learned about the Baltic these last two years is that when the wind blows up, it doesn’t take long for the shallow and narrow waters to create some pretty rough sailing conditions so it tests the systems very nicely and not too far offshore before I head up the Norwegian coast next year (already started reading your Norwegian Cruising Guide).

Hi John, I’m about to implement this solution to stop my topping lift from snagging the mainsail roach. I’ve got a rod backstay and I’m wondering what is the best way to lash the friction ring to the stay so that it stays put and doesn’t slide down the stay when tensioned.

I have used a good tight seizing with heavy sailmakers waxed thread and it’s worked fine on rod for me.

Hey, John. I am just about to put this into practice while the mast is out and I got a bit worried about point number 7 since I don’t have a way to go up the mast easily at this point. Just checking to see if you had any more thoughts since you wrote this on how far past half way the block should be because, for this season, I have one shot at this?

No, sorry, no further thoughts. There are just too many variables here for me, or anyone, to be able to guarantee that a given position will work just right . That said, I would be surprised if any issues would be too serious to live with for a season.

No worries, John. I put the block on today so we will see how it goes. Thanks.

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Installing A Topping Lift / Uphaul To Your Sailboat How To Guide

What is a Topping Lift?

A Topping lift (uphaul or boom backstay,) is a line which secures and suspends your sailboat boom. T opping lifts are used to hold the boom up when your main sail is lowered. This topping lift line runs from the end of your boom to the top of the sailboat mast.

Both of our Lockley Newport Daysailer sailboats didn't include Topping Lifts. Being curious as to why, we conducted a survey asking the sailing community what are the pros and cons of having a Topping Lift on you sailboat?

Topping Lift Pros:

Makes It Easier for Raising Main Sail At Dock.

Keeps the Boom Off your Deck

Topping Lift Cons:

Adding Topping Lift Sailboat Tools Needed

Tools & Supplies Pictured Above For Adding Topping Lift Links:

Power Drill.

Phillips Medium Screw Driver.

7/64 Bi-Metal drill Bit , https://amzn.to/2QXsR9g

Tap & Die Hand Tool, https://amzn.to/2QSkM5y

6/32 Threading Tap, https://amzn.to/2F5ttH0

One 3/8" Stainless Steel Eye Strap, https://amzn.to/2QTZ3KH

Two Tapered Flat Head 6/32 stainless screws, https://amzn.to/3h4EAgx

3/16" diameter marine paracord line, https://amzn.to/3lQ4Y1t

Two 3/8" Stainless Steel Bow Shackles, https://amzn.to/2EPqWRH

7/64 drill bit needed for 6/32 machine screws to tapping sailboat Mast Adding Topping Lift Sailboat Tools Needed

1. Lower your Sailboat Mast.

2. Locate location for the Eye Hook Strap towards the top of the mast. Avoid mounting it near the main sheet cable. I recommend tracing around the Eye Hook Strap location with pencil before drilling the two holes. Use 7/64 bit for making 6/32 threaded holes.

Drill & tap Sailboat Mast For Adding Topping Lift

3. Insert 6/32 tap into Tapping Hand Tool. Slowly Twist and turn the tap into the 7/64" size hole. Gently reverse the tool to make the 6/32 threads as even as possible.

How to Add Topping Lift to Sailboat Mast for Boom

Install the 6/32 Tapered Flat Head Screws to fasten on the Eye Hook Strap the aluminum sailboat mast.

Adding Topping Lift To Daysailer Sailboat Lockley Newport Oday Buccaneer

Our Mast Eye Hook Strap is installed and ready.

Next step is determining how much rope is needed.

Lower boom to lowest position on the mast, so you measure and cut plenty of line.

How to add Topping Lift Fixed Boom Vang to DaySailer Newport Lockley Sailboat

You can use whatever type of line you wish. Or add a Shackle!

I'm using 1/4" diameter marine line to attach the Topping Lift / Fixed Boom Vang on the Lockley Newport 17 Sailboat.

Sailing Lockley Newport 17 Sailboat With our Topping Lift Boom Vang Line

Photo by Jodi Martin.

Sailing our Newport 17 sailboat with our Topping Lift / Uphaul line.

The next DIY guide will be soon and hopefully another useful update to your Newport 17 sailboat.

Join our Lockley Newport Daysailer Sailboat Group on Facebook, HERE

The topping lift ( uphaul ) is a line which applies upward force on a sailboat . Topping lifts are primarily used to hold a boom up when the sail is lowered. This line / rope runs from near the free end of the boom(s) forward to the top of the mast. The line or rope may be run over a block at the top of the mast or mounted on side to allow boom height to be adjusted. For small booms, the topping lift may be run from end of the boom to the Backstay or next mast aft. When the sail is raised again, the topping lift is loosened or removed. On sailboats used for racing, boom lift function is frequently incorporated into the "Boom Vang" system, to reduce the number of lines aloft. Allowing the vang to take this function also simplifies operation of the sailboat. A topping lift may also refer to a line on the front of the mast used to rig the spinnaker pole. It is used to trim the pole to the proper height when hoisting the spinnaker.

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Home > Resources > Should You Add a Topping Lift to Your Boat

Should You Add a Topping Lift to Your Boat

27 May 2021

Ask Precision Sails , Design , Headsail , Mainsail , Measurements , Sails , Technical Tags: Boom , Mainsail , Precision , Sail , Sailboat , Sails , Topping Lift

Should I Add a Topping Lift to My Boat?

Setting up your rigging to suit your boat is paramount in achieving peak performance from your sails. On Ask Precision Sails we had a question from customer Jim who wants to know;

“Should I add a topping lift to my boat? And if so how do I rig it up?”

First of all what is a topping lift? A topping lift is a device which helps lift the boom and alleviate downward force. It usually connects at the end of the boom.

Jim was having trouble with his new vessel as it doesn’t currently have a topping lift set up. He is finding the boom drops down once he lowers the mainsail.

So, yes, a topping lift is something that will defiantly help to solve this problem. There are two common ways that this can be rigged depending on the size of the vessel and the size of the boom.

For smaller vessels with smaller booms, an additional line is run from the backstay that runs down on an angle to the end of the boom. This is a fixed option, set to hold the boom up when the sail is lowered but not tight enough that it pulls the boom up when the sail is raised.

This option is only suited to smaller vessels.

The preferred method, and a common rigging format for larger vessels, is using a block or shiv built into the top of the mast to run a line for your topping lift that can be easily adjusted. The topping lift line will run from the end of the boom directly to the block at the top of the mast and then down the mast to either the base of the mast or to the cockpit to a cleat- ideal for easy and safe adjustments whilst sailing.

It is important to note that with an adjustable topping lift it is essential that this line is released once the mainsail is hoisted, allowing the sail to pull taut. In this position, the mainsail can achieve an effective shape and can be trimmed nicely for sailing at different points of sail. The topping lift will only need to be tightened again if you are preparing to reef the sails or once you are preparing to lower the mainsail, once again taking the pressure off the sail and taking the weight of the boom.

If you need a new sail to work with your topping lift, give us a call at 1-888-958-5638 or request a quote!

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The Running Rigging On A Sailboat Explained

The running rigging on a sailboat consists of all the lines used to hoist, lower, and control the sails and sailing equipment. These lines usually have different colors and patterns to easily identify their function and location on the vessel.

Looking at the spaghetti of lines with different colors and patterns might get your head spinning. But don’t worry, it is actually pretty simple. Each line on a sailboat has a function, and you’ll often find labels describing them in the cockpit and on the mast.

In this guide, I’ll walk you through the functions of every component of the running rigging. We’ll also look at the hardware we use to operate it and get up to speed on some of the terminology.

The difference between standing rigging and running rigging

Sometimes things can get confusing as some of our nautical terms are used for multiple items depending on the context. Let me clarify just briefly:

The rig or rigging on a sailboat is a common term for two parts, the standing , and the running rigging.

The standing rigging consists of wires supporting the mast on a sailboat and reinforcing the spars from the force of the sails when sailing. Check out my guide on standing rigging here!
The running rigging consists of the halyards, sheets, and lines we use to hoist, lower, operate and control the sails on a sailboat which we will explore in this guide.

The components of the running rigging

Knowing the running rigging is an essential part of sailing, whether you are sailing a cruising boat or crewing on a large yacht. Different types of sailing vessels have different amounts of running rigging.

For example, a sloop rig has fewer lines than a ketch, which has multiple masts and requires a separate halyard, outhaul, and sheet for its mizzen sail. Similarly, a cutter rig needs another halyard and extra sheets for its additional headsail.

You can dive deeper and read more about Sloop rigs, Ketch Rigs, Cutter rigs, and many others here .

Take a look at this sailboat rigging diagram:

Lines are a type of rope with a smooth surface that works well on winches found on sailboats. They come in various styles and sizes and have different stretch capabilities.

Dyneema and other synthetic fibers have ultra-high tensile strength and low stretch. These high-performance lines last a long time, and I highly recommend them as a cruiser using them for my halyards.

A halyard is a line used to raise and lower the sail. It runs from the head of the sail to the masthead through a block and continues down to the deck. Running the halyard back to the cockpit is common, but many prefer to leave it on the mast.

Fun fact: Old traditional sailboats sometimes used a stainless steel wire attached to the head of the sail instead of a line!

Jib, Genoa, and Staysail Halyards

The halyard for the headsail is run through a block in front of the masthead. If your boat has a staysail, it needs a separate halyard. These lines are primarily untouched on vessels with a furling system except when you pack the sail away or back up. Commonly referred to as the jib halyard.

Spinnaker Halyard

A spinnaker halyard is basically the same as the main halyard but used to hoist and lower the spinnaker, gennaker, or parasailor.

The spinnaker halyard is also excellent for climbing up the front of the mast, hoisting the dinghy on deck, lifting the outboard, and many other things.

A sheet is a line you use to control and trim a sail to the angle of the wind . The mainsheet controls the angle of the mainsail and is attached between the boom and the mainsheet traveler . The two headsail sheets are connected to the sail’s clew (lower aft corner) and run back to each side of the cockpit.

These are control lines used to adjust the angle and tension of the sail. It is also the line used to unfurl a headsail on a furling system. Depending on what sail you are referring to, this can be the Genoa sheet , the Jib sheet , the Gennaker sheet , etc.

The outhaul is a line attached to the clew of the mainsail and used to adjust the foot tension. It works runs from the mainsail clew to the end of the boom and back to the mast. In many cases, back to the cockpit. On a boat with in-mast furling , this is the line you use to pull the sail out of the mast.

Topping lift

The topping lift is a line attached to the boom’s end and runs through the masthead and down to the deck or cockpit. It lifts and holds the boom and functions well as a spare main halyard. Some types of sailboat rigging don’t use a topping lift for their boom but a boom vang instead. Others have both!

Topping lifts can also be used to lift other spars.

A downhaul is a line used to lower with and typically used to haul the mainsail down when reefing and lowering the spinnaker and whisker poles. The downhaul can also control the tack of an asymmetrical spinnaker, gennaker, or parasailor.

Tweaker and Barber Haul

A tweaker is a line, often elastic, attached to the sheet of a headsail and used to fine-tune the tension on the sheet.

Barber haul

A barber haul is a line attached to a headsail’s sheet to adjust the sheeting angle to the wind. It is often used to pull the clew further toward the center or outboard than the cars allow.

Boom Preventer

A boom preventer is a line attached to the boom’s end when sailing off the wind. Its function is to hold the spar in place and prevent it from swinging wildly.

If the boat were to get an accidental gybe, it could cause serious damage to the rigging or even harm people on board. It is important for the rigger to be cautious when setting up the boom preventer.

Running Backstay

Running backstays is similar to a normal backstay but uses a line instead of a hydraulic tensioner. Some rigs have additional check stays or runners as well.

Bonus tip: Reefing

The term reefing is used when reducing the effective sailing area exposed to the wind of a given sail. Headsails are usually reefed by partially furling them in, and they often have marks for what we refer to as 1st, 2nd, and 3rd reefs.

The mainsail is reefed similarly with an in-mast furling or in-boom furling system.

On a traditional mast, we use a system called slab reefing. The system has reefing lines running through the boom to reinforced points on the luff and leech, allowing you to pull the sail down to the boom and effectively reduce the sail area.

Having at least two reefing points in the mainsail is normal, but most cruising sailboats have 3. The 3rd is used for the heaviest conditions, giving you only a tiny bit of sail area exposed to the wind.

You want to reef your sails before the wind increases to a point where your boat gets overpowered.

It is essential to practice your reefing technique . You will find yourself in situations with rapidly increasing winds where you need to reduce your sails quickly.

Rule of thumb: If you think setting a reef might be a good idea, do it.

Shaking a reef is the term used when we sail with a reefed sail and want to increase the sail area back to full.

Hardware used for sail handling and the running rigging

Furling system.

Most sailboats have their headsail on a furling system. A furling system is a tube that runs along the forestay from the bottom furler drum to the masthead swivel.

This system allows you to roll the headsail around the forestay, making furling the sail in and out accessible. It is also convenient when reefing the sail when the wind picks up, as you can easily do this from the safety of the cockpit. These furling systems come in manual versions and electric versions.

In-mast furling

In-mast furling is a system that rolls the mainsail in and out of the mast. To unfurl the mainsail, we use the outhaul .

In-boom furling

In-boom furling is a system that rolls the mainsail in and out of the boom. This system has been costly and has mostly been seen on big yachts earlier. They are becoming more affordable and common on smaller boats, though. To unfurl this setup, we use the main halyard.

A Stack pack is also called a Lazy Bag or Lazy Pack. It is a bag with a zip attached to the boom where the mainsail is stored when unused. It protects the mainsail from UV rays from the sun and weather elements. It is a very nice and tidy way to store the mainsail and reefing lines if you don’t have in-mast or in-boom furling.

Lazy Jacks is a system of lines running from the stack pack to the mast. The Lazy Jacks guide the mainsail up and down from the Stack Pack and prevent it from falling down on the deck. It is also possible to rig Lazy Jacks without a Stack Pack.

A block is a pulley with a sheave wheel. Blocks are used to change the direction of a pull on a line or rope and give a mechanical advantage. They have many uses, especially onboard sailboats.

A winch is a metal drum that gives you a mechanical advantage to control and tighten lines. These can be operated by turning a rope around it and pulling manually or by a winch handle to get more force. Most modern winches are self-tailing, which means they lock the line on so you can winch the line without holding on to it. Some boats even have electrical winches operated by a button.

Mainsheet Traveler

The mainsheet traveler is a horizontal track that the mainsheet is attached to through a series of blocks. The traveler enables you to adjust and lock the boom at an angle and also plays a critical part in trimming the mainsail.

Most cruising sailboats have their traveler attached to the top of the coachroof in front of the spray hood. A racing boat typically has the traveler in the cockpit near the helm to give the helmsman better control over the mainsheet.

The cars are basically a pulley or block attached to a track on the port and starboard deck that your headsail sheets run through. Cars are used to control the angle of the sheet between the clew and the deck. The cars are handy when you trim the sail to set the right balance of tension between the foot and leech, depending on your point of sail.

The jammer is used to lock a line in place. Most sailboats use these for locking the halyards, mainsheet, outhaul, reef lines, traveler lines, boom vang lines, etc. You can pull or winch a line through a closed jammer, but it won’t run away if you let go of it unless you open the lock.

As I explained earlier, it is normal to have most or all of the lines led back to the cockpit, and they are usually run through a series of jammers.

The jammers are often labeled with the name of the line it locks, which makes it easier to remember which line goes where.

Spinnaker Pole

A spinnaker pole is a spar used to wing out a headsail when sailing off the wind, particularly the spinnaker. The spinnaker pole should have the same length as the distance between the mast and the forestay measured along the deck. We use a fore and aft guy and the pole’s topping lift to rig a pole correctly.

The rigging varies depending on the layout of the boat, but it usually looks like this:

One line runs from the bow to the end of the pole.
An aft line runs from near the stern to the end of the pole.
A topping lift is used to raise and lower the pole.

Whisker Pole

A whisker pole is similar to the spinnaker pole and is rigged similarly. It is typically built lighter and attached to a track on the mast. These can be found in fixed lengths or adjustable lengths. Ideally, the length should be the same as the foot of the headsail you intend to pole out.

Boom Vang/Rod Kicker

The Boom Vang has a few different names. Rod-kicker, kicking strap, or kicker. It is used to tension the boom downwards. When you are sailing downwind and have the boom far out, the mainsheet won’t pull the boom down as much as inboard, and you can then use the vang to adjust the twist and shape of the mainsail.

Mooring line

A mooring line is a traditional rope lead through a fairlead to the vessel’s cleat and a mooring buoy, key, or pontoon.

Final words

Congratulations! By now, you should have a much better understanding of how the running rig on a sailboat functions. We’ve covered the different lines, their purpose, and the hardware used to operate them. I hope you’ve enjoyed this guide and learned something new.

Now it’s time to take what you’ve learned and put it into practice by getting out on the water, setting sail, and getting hands-on experience with the lines.

Or you can continue to my following guide and learn more about the different types of sails .

Sharing is caring!

Skipper, Electrician and ROV Pilot

Robin is the founder and owner of Sailing Ellidah and has been living on his sailboat since 2019. He is currently on a journey to sail around the world and is passionate about writing his story and helpful content to inspire others who share his interest in sailing.

Line choice for topping lift

Add to quote

I’m planning to replace my topping lift. It’s terminated at the mast head and is adjusted on the boom. Since attaching it at the masthead will be a bit of a project, I’d like to go as long as possible before having to do it again. What’s the best line choice for longevity? Is a line with a black cover more UV resistant than white, or vice versa?

I've had my main topping lift for over ten years, with a lot of sailing, as a charter boat, sun and weather, being in the tropics. Polyester double braid is what we use. I doubt I'd replace it with anything else.

Yep, good 'ol double braid. Cheap too 😊 I am just replacing mine... Fortunately it doesn't terminate at the masthead but goes down in the mast. I am upgrading it from 8mm to 10 or 12mm to be an emergency main halyard. Nice for long range cruising 😊

I have used the predecessor to Viper- New England Rope's VPR for close to 15 years. I liked that product a lot. Viper is New England's replacement and I have used it on a number of applications, including halyards on a boat that I have been racing on. I like it better than the VPR and the core is supposed to be more durable. Depending on the diameter, Viper will be one or two mm smaller than polyester and will have less stretch and a similar strength. It seems like the Viper is close to the same price as similar strength polyester (which will be a bit larger diameter) . That said, I was recently advising a friend on this and the size he needed was $.30 per foot more for the next smaller size Viper, whereas when doing the halyard for the race boat, the Viper was actually less expensive, If you think that you will use this as a temporary backstay, then I would definitely use the Viper. Viper should also be a good choice for a spinnaker halyard. I think that Marlow Rope is more common over in Europe. I am not familiar with their line and they do not publish elongation numbers which I consider important for halyards since stretch adds to fatigue, and to chafe as the line moves back and forth across sheaves and exit slots. Jeff

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Topping Lift

A topping lift is a line that usually runs to the top of the mast and is used to support a boom, or other spar.

Many sailboats use a topping lift to support the boom to keep it from hitting the deck (or people's heads) when the mainsail is not raised. When the mainsail is hoisted, the sail should support the weight of the boom and the topping lift should go slack. Some sailboats use a spring-loaded vang system that supports the weight of the boom so a topping lift is not needed.

A topping lift is also usually used to support the weight of a spinnaker pole when it is deployed.

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adding a topping lift, how best to rig it?

Thread starter centerline
Start date Aug 21, 2012
Forums for All Owners
Ask All Sailors

my boat does not currently have a topping lift. I want to add one and I am wondering if, at the masthead, I should have a fixed block, or a swinging block on a short wire pendant. how is yours rigged? what works best?

The Case FOR a Topping Lift Many people will write to tell you how unnecessary a topping lift is and what a nuisance it is flapping against the sail and how, with a rigid vang, a topping lift is redundant etc. My boat came with a plastic covered 'liifeline' wire topping lift. I kept it - even though I subsequently fitted a rigid vang. Apart from the main halyard it is the only other line going to the mast head. If you ever have a problem with the main halyard it is a simple matter to use the topping lift to pull through a thicker line to go up on in a bosun's chair. So make sure the blocks at mast head and heel are man enough. Also if,like me, you don't feel comfortable in a chair unless you have TWO lines attached - one for hauling up and the other as a safety line - then a TL is the only way. And I have never seen a masthead fitting without a sheave for a TL so yours is probably there already. The vang needs to be set up so you can get to the boom so inevitably the weight is only supported by the spring in the vang. When on the mooring, I bowse the mainsheet down hard to stop the boom swinging 24/7 in passing washes and I do not like the boom being so low. So I use the TL to lift the boom clear of heads in the cockpit and then even the rainwater drains towards the mast. But I guess you knew all this already!

I added a topping lift this summer. I used a double braided 5/16 line fastened to the mast head then to a block on the boom then forward to a jam cleat forward of the bimini. It was an easy simple installation and works well for me. I have thought of running a new line to the cockpit, however, for what I use it for that would be a waste of effort. I take the boat to different lakes a couple of times a year and that would be just one more item to disconnect when removing the boom for travel.

Paul Brinkley

I drilled another hole in my chicken head and bolted in another sheave for the topping lift. Screwed an eyebolt into the end of the boom, and put a snaphook on the 1/4" line. Works fine for me. -Paul

My little X boat has a TL cleated at the base of the mast, but I've just recently added a small block to end of the TL line at the boom end, with two parts of line to the boom. I store the boom high, above head height, and often forget to lower the TL before raising the main. Now, I can do that from the cockpit (main halyard is also led back), so I don't have to go forward in a seaway, which isn't easy on this boat. I don't really need the block, and it flails about against the sail sometimes, and I'll probably rework it so there's a small loop for the boom cleat at storage height. I use a stopper knot at the end through a small strap eye on the boom to set the lower elevation, for sailing. It doesn't get any easier than that - uncleat the line and let the boom drop to the end of the line for sailing, pull it back in and cleat it (or hook the loop I haven't put in yet) onto the cleat for high storage, all from the helm. I could use a piece of line or wire without bringing it over a sheave to the mast base, but the hardware is already there, and it's not hurting anything to keep it that way, so that's the way it will stay.

Scott T-Bird

I doubt anybody will be going up the mast on your Mac 25 so there really is no need to rig it like a halyard would be rigged. I imagine that there isn't an extra sheave or even space for one anyway. The simplest TL could be to simply fix one end of a plastic coated wire or even a small diameter line at the top of the mast and attach a small block to the other end, which would terminate only 1' to 2' above the end of the boom. Fix a small diameter (1/4") line to the end of the boom and run it through the block at the end of the TL wire and then back down through a small cheek block that you can fix to the side of your boom at the end. The line runs forward to cleat that you can fix on the boom somewhere forward. How far forward depends on your preference. I have mine too close to the mast and have to get on the coach roof to uncleat and cleat. It would be much simpler to put the cleat on the boom where you can reach it from the cockpit. When I loosen my TP, I can have some line drooping below the boom, but it has never really bothered me enough to change it. With this arrangement there is no need for a line running the full length of the mast up and down and it should be much easier to take apart for trailering. Some people prefer to rig it like a halyard so they can raise and lower the end of the boom like hoisting a halyard, and because they like to consider the TL a spare halyard. On a small boat with a very light boom, I think it is overkill.

Many boats have a short topping lift attached to the back stay. I had one on my J-36. less weight aloft, not hitting the leach. less weight, etc. I raced and cruised on it. Simple and did the job. Short line with a hook at the end. Or longer and run through the end of the boom. Disconnect to go sailing and tie it to the stern pulpit.

rigging a topping lift my 2c I like hewebb`s Idea Its simple and adjustable and basically the same as mine. Using coated or uncoated wire is your choice. I opted for uncoated In slapping against the mainsal for the last 10 years or so, no damage has been done

My topping lift terminates at the mast head and there is no sheave to run it down to the deck. However, a block could be added that would allow me to do so and it's something I have considered. To make mine adjustable in its current configuration, I just tied a taught line hitch around the standing end after passing the line through the clip at the end of the boom. Works fine for setting the boom height or providing slack once the sail is raised. Some use a block configuration to do this, but I don't want a block swinging up there, possibly chafing the sail. Others run the topping lift through a cheek block on the boom, then to a jam cleat, which seems like a handy option if the line terminates at the mast head.

thank you for all of the ideas. all I want to be able to do is hoist and drop the sail without messing with the pigtail wire all the time. we anchor out a lot so a topping lift would make it convenient for sail handling and it would be immensely better when reefing the main. it seems from reading all the different ways to rig one, for a basic boom supporting line, the most efficient way to rig one would be to terminate at the chickenhead then come down to the end of the boom thru a cheek block and then, either to a cleat on the boom, or all the way to the mast, thru a block and then down to a cabintop camcleat with all the other lines... and its one less line slapping against the mast. (as opposed to a line up the mast to a block and then back down to terminate at the boom end) I think that if I should ever need to go up the mast in a bosuns chair, I could use either the main or jib halyard. I cant imagine ever needing to go up the mast when both halyards are in use.

centerline said: . . . the most efficient way to rig one would be to terminate at the chickenhead then come down to the end of the boom thru a cheek block and then, either to a cleat on the boom . . . Click to expand

tkanzler said: That's where I'd stop. If you can reach the boom from the cockpit, there's no real utility in continuing on to the boom base, to the mast, and back to the cockpit. My boom is light enough to just lift with one hand, and cleat with the other, to raise it high for dock storage (head room). A stopper knot lets me uncleat and lower to the knot for sailing. The less thinking, the better, and I only have to undo the stopper knot to remove the boom for trailering, though some sort of quick disconnect (snap shackle, carabiner, whatever) could also be used to speed it up even more, I suppose. Oh, and I don't even use a cheek block - just a small horn cleat on one side, and a small eye strap on the other (2-parts to a small block on the end of the TL line), though I'm going to eliminate the block the next time I'm out on the boat. Click to expand

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Thanks- makes perfect sense!

I have a fixed topping lift, i use it from time to time. I find that lazy jack work a lot better to keep the mainsail on the boom when lowered, i use the lazy jack as a double topping lift most of the time. It cost me a few small blocks, two rings and some rope, cheap and convenient.

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27-01-2022, 12:55
Boat: Morris 44 Ocean Series	. The is getting all new standing and running this year, so the is coming down. It's a perfect time to set up a topping . I think the topping lift will help with reefing and dropping the main. He thinks we just need a better vang that holds up the boom. The rigger said the vang is fine and holds up the boom sufficiently for dropping the sail. I'm not sure what the downside is to a topping lift and it seems like an easy way to keep the boom off the when dropping the sail. Currently, we put the sail away and attach the to the end of the boom to keep it off the . A topping lift could do that instead and is a lot easier than walking the to the boom and reaching over the dodger to attached it. What say ye old sailors? Topping lift: yes or no?

27-01-2022, 13:02
Boat: Adams 45

27-01-2022, 13:05
Boat: Swarbrick S-80	, however it sounds like you have a rigid vang so Im assuming larger rather than smaller. Short answer is yes. If for no other reason than to take the pressure off the vang when youre not sailing. It also gives you a spare halyard should you lose the main halyard for some reason. Heres what the guru says:

27-01-2022, 13:15
Boat: Rafiki 37

27-01-2022, 13:47

Boat: Legend 37.5, 1968 Alcort Sunfish, Avon 310

27-01-2022, 14:02
Boat: Sayer 46' Solent rig sloop	has a lot of roach, you will want to secure the topping lift at the to avoid chafing on the stitches while you are under way (if your has stitches--some laminates don't). And then, of course, you will want to secure the topping lift back on the aft end of the boom before you drop the sail, if you rely on the topping lift to keep the boom off the dodger. Even if you don't have a roachy mainsail, you will get stitch chafe, if you use a boom topping lift. Our present boat has no topping lift and a vang that does support the boom, and there is no with the dodger, so I think you won't need to worry about dodger damage from just using a better vang... and the vang can help a lot with sail trim, which is a job the topping lift cannot do. The time we broke the boom, we used the main halyard to support the aft end of the boom while we dealt with the wreckage. It worked fine, but so would have a topping lift. Ann

27-01-2022, 14:53
Boat: 1992 lagoon 42 tpi

27-01-2022, 14:59
Boat: Island Packet 40

27-01-2022, 15:03
Boat: cape dory 30 MKII

27-01-2022, 15:41
Boat: Privilege 435	sailors often use the topping lift to tighten the masthead when sailing downwind with a only.

27-01-2022, 16:03
Boat: Jon Sayer 1-off 46 ft fract rig sloop strip plank in W Red Cedar	and one main halyard at the masthead, and another would be a good thing. Might be a good place for bare cordage... less windage and less chafing of the mainsail. Jim

27-01-2022, 16:07
Boat: KH 49x, Custom	. Built a new cat and eliminated the topping lift with a boom . Very happy not to have the topping lift flailing around the Mainsail. Can't keep it tight, ot it chafes the main. If you keep it loose, you've got to remember to tighten it before reefing or stowing the main Our is plenty strong and raises the boom to roughly the level of the second reef, I can see how it would annoy if it didn't. We also have a spare halyard, more or less permanently attached to one of the stations. Not having a topping lift doesn't mean you can't have a spare halyard. It just means you don't have to fuss with it. The boom kicker is always there. To protect our from the absent minded sailor pulling the strings. Horses for courses. I'm sure there as many reasons to have one, as there are to get rid of one. Cheers. Paul.

27-01-2022, 16:10
Boat: Rafiki 37

27-01-2022, 16:14
Boat: PDQ Altair, 32/34	line when climbing mast. I also have Spin and reacher halyards, but they don't go all the way to the masthead. They are also on the wrong side. Yes, it can snag on battens if hoisting is sloppy, but you learn to deal with that. I could go either way, so long as there is at least ONE spare halyard always available. If you think you may climb underway, with up, then two spare halyards is the minimum (unless you trust fully to the condition of one and the masthead pulley).

27-01-2022, 17:25
Boat: Cape George 31

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Topping Lift: Types, Uses, and Adjustments
Topping lift

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Topping Lift
The main purpose of the Topping Lift is to hold the boom up when the sail is not raised. Most people set this line once when the boat is new and never adjust it again. This is why the topping lift is often forgotten for the life of the boat, allowing the line to rot away on the cleat. The problem with "setting and forgetting" the topping lift ...
Topping lift
The topping lift indicated Topping lift on a US Yachts US 22 sailboat. The topping lift (more rarely known as an uphaul) is a line which applies upward force on a boom on a sailboat.. Part of the running rigging, topping lifts are primarily used to hold a boom up when the sail is lowered. [1] This line would run from near the free end of the boom(s) forward to the top of the mast.
Tips for Adjusting a Topping Lift
Tightening the topping lift provides more slack in the sail itself, making it easier to lower the sail part way and secure the reef. After raising or reefing the sail, however, it is necessary then to loosen the topping lift so that the weight of the boom pulls the sail tight. In the photo shown here, the topping lift is still too tight ...
Topping Lift: Types, Uses, and Adjustments
A topping lift is a vital yacht component designed to hold the boom when the mainsail is lowered or the boat is anchored. Its primary purpose is maintaining proper sail shape, enhancing the boat's performance, and ensuring overall safety. The system consists of a rope or wire (often used on larger or older boats) that runs from the top of the ...
Let Your Boom Off Its Leash With a Topping Lift
Mount the micro cheek block on the opposite side of the boom like in the first picture. Mount the fairlead cleat about a foot forward of and on the same side of the boom as the micro cheek block, also in the first picture. Attach the 1/4″ line to the eye strap with a spliced eye or bowline knot. Lead the working end of the line up and reave ...
Topping Lift Tips and a Hack
George system is not so uncommon on some older yachts, except topping lift at the boom end passes through a ring which is attached to a foot line. The line is pulled, the topping lift eased and the topping lift ends up stored along the foot of the boom and running from the ring back tot he truck at the mast head.
Installing A Topping Lift / Uphaul To Your Sailboat How To Guide
A Topping lift (uphaul or boom backstay,) is a line which secures and suspends your sailboat boom. Topping lifts are used to hold the boom up when your main sail is lowered. ... Johnson Boat Works T-Shirt Used Harken 434 Jib Sail Furling Gear Used Catalina Capri CP-14.2 Jib Sail, Hank on Sandpiper 80, Sea Witch, Sunchaser II Main Sail ...
Should You Add a Topping Lift to Your Boat
The topping lift will only need to be tightened again if you are preparing to reef the sails or once you are preparing to lower the mainsail, once again taking the pressure off the sail and taking the weight of the boom. If you need a new sail to work with your topping lift, give us a call at 1-888-958-5638 or request a quote! Topping lifts are ...
#9 Topping Lift replacement
Replacing the worn topping lift line on the boat.I use a mousing line, pulled through the mast using the old linePurchase a new custom line at JimmyGreenMari...
Should I Add A Topping Lift To My Boat? Overview And Rigging
In this episode of Ask Precision Sails Darryl answers the question "Should I Add A Topping Lift To My Boat? Overview And Rigging"Questions?Send us a message!...
Master The Running Rigging On A Sailboat: Illustrated Guide
In many cases, back to the cockpit. On a boat with in-mast furling, this is the line you use to pull the sail out of the mast. Topping lift. The topping lift is a line attached to the boom's end and runs through the masthead and down to the deck or cockpit. It lifts and holds the boom and functions well as a spare main halyard.
Topping Lift
The topping lift is a piece of 1/8" amsteel long enough to get ~2' from the boom with eye splices in each end. The top one goes to the masthead, the bottom holds a small block. 1/4" (cheap) double braid goes from the back of the boom, through that block, and back along the boom to a cleat at the front.
Flow 19
Did you ever wonder how to install an adjustable topping lift on a small sailboat without going to the extend of running a line up and down the mast? Here ...
Topping Lift
A double-ended system will give either crew the ability to adjust the pole. With a few blocks and some line, a very efficient and easy-to-use topping lift can be had by all! Start by picking the location for the new clam cleat on the side decks. Choose a spot between the coaming and the shroud about 12″ back from the forward coaming.
Topping lift for a sailing boat
SKU: PRR330. Application: Halyard, Sheet, Control line. u000b. This high quality performance regatta rope, has a Stirotex grade 12 coated core and 24 braid HT Polyester cover. Features: Suitable for splicing and tapering, very low stretch, light weight, great durability, stronger than steel. Especially suitable for halyards and sheets.
Topping Lift Kits
A versatile topping lift kit with an easy and quick built-in adjustment. Sail Care Topping Lift Kits are built using our data base on sail dimensions and averaging the leech measurements on 50 or more boats for every foot length from 15′ to 36′. This works well and helps us keep up with orders by having the cable portion of the kit made up ...
Help with topping lift!
The solution to the slackness in the topping lift when you ease out the main and the boom rises, loosening the topping lift, is to sister in a 2-3 piece of shock cord that takes up the slack when the boom is eased out. Tie one end of the shock coord to the boom fitting and the other to the topping lift wire, try a rolling hitch.
Line choice for topping lift
Viper is New England's replacement and I have used it on a number of applications, including halyards on a boat that I have been racing on. I like it better than the VPR and the core is supposed to be more durable. Depending on the diameter, Viper will be one or two mm smaller than polyester and will have less stretch and a similar strength.
Topping Lift
A topping lift is a line that usually runs to the top of the mast and is used to support a boom, or other spar.. Many sailboats use a topping lift to support the boom to keep it from hitting the deck (or people's heads) when the mainsail is not raised. When the mainsail is hoisted, the sail should support the weight of the boom and the topping lift should go slack.
adding a topping lift, how best to rig it?
Dec 2, 2003. 1,637. Hunter 376 Warsash, England --. Aug 22, 2012. #2. The Case FOR a Topping Lift. Many people will write to tell you how unnecessary a topping lift is and what a nuisance it is flapping against the sail and how, with a rigid vang, a topping lift is redundant etc. My boat came with a plastic covered 'liifeline' wire topping lift.
Topping lift or no?
Husband and I disagree about the need for a topping lift. The boat is getting all new standing and running rigging this year, so the mast is coming down. It's a perfect time to set up a topping lift. I think the topping lift will help with reefing and dropping the main. He thinks we just need a better vang that holds up the boom.
Topping lift for a sailing boat
11 - Topping lift. There are no high demanding requirements for a topping lift. We recommend a durable double braided polyester rope in this case. This high quality performance regatta rope, has a Stirotex grade 12 coated core and 24 braid HT Polyester cover. Features: Suitable for splicing and tapering, very low stretch, light weight, great ...
TOPPING LIFT KIT
Blue Water Yachts is the only factory authorized distributor for MacGregor sailboat parts and accessories. We sell factory replacement and upgrade sails, fiberglass rudders, centerboards and daggerboard, replacement plexiglass windows for most MacGregor boats. ... TOPPING LIFT KIT : Our Price: $ 34.00. Product Code: 3440-1M0. Qty:

How to Use a Topping Lift

The Topping Lift

A Tight Topping Lift

Topping Lift Properly Eased

Topping Lift: Types, Uses, and Adjustments

Key Takeaways

What is a Topping Lift?

Types of Topping Lifts

Adjustable

Hydraulic and Mechanical

How a Topping Lift Works

Maintaining Sail Shape

Boom Support at Anchor or Moored

Setup and Adjustment

Finding the balance:

Tips for Easy and Efficient Adjustments

Adjusting Tension

Use in Various Sailing Scenarios

Lowering the Mainsail

Reefing the Mainsail

Sailing Downwind

Heaving-to and Other Maneuvers

When Anchored or Moored

Emergency Situations

Topping Lift vs. Lazy Jacks

Rigid Vang: an Alternative to a Topping Lift

Preventing Chafing, Wear, and Maintenance

Material Selection

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