sailboat chainplates for sale

Chainplates

A couple quick notes:

• Use new 316 grade fasteners. Not the old ones you just took out!
• Buy new cotter pins.
• Tape traps salt and limits oxygen which promotes decay.
• Polish and freshwater extend the life of your investment.
• Re-bed your chain plates every 4-5 years.
• No silicone! the vinegar smell indicates a corrosive property stainless doesn’t like.
• We like Butyl, Uv 4000 and Sikaflex.
• Stainless hates detergents like dishwashing and laundry soaps as well as bleach!

Mack Yacht Services, Inc. we know chainplates

Not all Chainplate repairs are equal

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Chainplates 101: Inspect and Refit

• By Tom Zydler
• Updated: November 15, 2013

Corroded Chainplates

Out of sight and out of mind: For many sailors, that’s an apt description of their chainplates, the stainless-steel fittings protruding through the deck that anchor a mast’s standing rigging wires. In typical installations, the longer portion of a chainplate is hidden below deck in a locker, where it’s difficult to see or inspect. It’s no wonder that many sailors on the cusp of bluewater cruising focus on beefing up or replacing the standing rigging while assuming the chainplates will continue supporting the wires that keep the mast erect.

For safety and peace of mind, however, sailboat chainplates require attention and possibly upgrading. For example, many chainplates are too thin to grip clevis pins correctly. For a ½-inch turnbuckle with a ½-inch toggle, the chainplate should be at least ⅜ inch thick. For a ⅝-inch turnbuckle and toggle, a minimum thickness of ½ inch is necessary.

Another matter worthy of consideration is the stainless-steel alloy the boat’s chainplates are made of. Though 304 stainless is widely used, it’s prone to crevice corrosion when seawater seeps past bedding compounds and becomes stagnant on the metal, thus rendering it a poor choice for chainplates. (This also illustrates the danger of relying on sealants to protect from moisture chainplates that are led through the deck.) When polished to a high gloss, 316L stainless will survive much longer. Grade 2 titanium is ideal, though its high price makes it cost prohibitive for most yacht applications.

| |In this image, the damaged balsa core, which is typical in older classic-plastic production boats, is visible through the deck slots. Make sure to mark and identify the old chainplates before giving them to the fabricators. They will mark the new ones accordingly.| |

| |Three degrees of chainplate separation: the old chainplate (center), the new 316L bar stock (right) and the finished, polished, brand-new chainplate (left).| |

| |The real key to a chainplate replacement job will be how well you effect the repairs to the old balsa core and the deck slots. For my project, I cleared about an inch of balsa core from between the layers of deck laminate and rebuilt the area with thickened epoxy. This not only stiffened the deck, but also created a wall of solid epoxy that would protect the balsa from seawater in the event that the sealant broke down.| |

| |Once the backstay chainplate was pulled, it was clear how the corrosion started (where the metal was seated against the teak transom), and where water was trapped near the through-transom fasteners. I corrected this by enlarging the slot in the teak and inserting a rubber gasket where the new chainplate meets the transom.|

In any case, preventing seawater from leaking down the chainplates is essential. Boatbuilders routinely squeeze bedding compound between the deck and the chainplates before installing stainless cover plates. These screwed-in deck plates are supposed to compress the sealant around the chainplates. However, they are often too small to be effective, and furthermore, they embrace the chainplates so tightly they actually trap water in the worst possible location.

Thoughtful design and building practices would help prevent future problems. To maximize upwind tacking angles, racing boats often have chainplates installed well inboard, and these must be led through the deck. Since many owners of dual-purpose performance cruisers also use their boats for racing, many production sailboats have a similar arrangement for tight headsail sheeting. But even with a narrow rigging base, it’s possible to improve the chainplate installation. Some builders specify chainplates welded to a base that is then bolted through the deck onto a strong under-deck plate that’s sometimes backed by a tension rod. In such a setup the topside component can be sealed with a neoprene gasket, which is more effective than a bedding compound that can be squeezed out when the bolts are tightened. Also, this arrangement permits easy inspection of the fitting and its fasteners for smudges of rust, the first sign of creeping corrosion.

On cruising boats, it makes more sense to situate the chainplates outboard, on the outside of the hull. This provides a very wide, efficient base with longer spreaders and a wider angle between the shrouds and the mast, all of which reduces the loads on the rigging wire. The venerable Out Island series of boats designed by Charley Morgan has such chainplates, which are easy to inspect and reduce the risk of crevice corrosion. While they can still corrode on the underside where seawater can get trapped, their generous thickness provides a welcome safety factor.

All bolts holding chainplates require frequent inspections. Fashioned from 304 stainless alloy (also known as 18/8), the threads on these fasteners can collect saltwater and they can corrode quite easily. When sailmaker Dave Beatson began to remove some chainplate bolts on his Creekmore 34, half of the bolt heads fell off when he turned the wrench. So when we bought a 20-year-old Mason 44, I decided to pull out the chainplates to see what, if anything, was going on.

Ominously, I discovered that corrosion — some of which looked like the beginning of straight saw cuts — had begun to disintegrate the metal right where the chainplates vanished through the deck. And the backstay chainplate was losing metal below the deck where the bolts went through the transom. To address the situation, Peter Messenger, one of the most experienced riggers I know, advised using 316L stainless alloy for repairs. After cutting the material to size, he advised polishing it to high gloss. I ordered lengths of 316L bar in ½-inch and ⅝-inch thicknesses to match the size of the turnbuckle toggles for the lower and upper shrouds, respectively. (The original chainplates were much thinner and, while probably still strong enough, the clevis pins had a loose, sloppy fit. Also, the new bar stock I’d ordered was very slightly undersize, making it a perfect fit with the toggles.)

When effecting repairs or refits, ideally the deck area around the chainplates should be a solid glass laminate. It wasn’t on my Mason, which again is typical for most older production boats. So I cleared out about an inch of balsa core from between the layers of deck laminate and rebuilt the area with thickened epoxy. This stiffened the deck. Also, if the sealant broke down, the wall of solid epoxy would prevent seawater from soaking into the balsa and creating a permanent sponge bath, ensuring accelerated corrosion. To prevent future leaks, I discarded the slim stainless cover plates affixed to the original chainplates. Out of prefab fiberglass plate I then made larger cover plates with slots ½-inch wider than the chainplates.

This allowed a generous buildup of BoatLIFE polysulfide sealant. Before sealing, I wiped all metal parts with degreaser to remove any contaminants. When choosing a sealant, avoid the tenacious 3M 5200 polyurethane so beloved by certain boatyard workers because it hides bad workmanship. Plus, it takes days to set. Use 5200 only where you want the pieces to bond permanently. Although it slowly cracks when exposed to sunlight, you’d still need a heat gun and an iron will to remove it later.

| |The new, polished chainplates for the intermediate and upper shrouds are ready to go in.|To prevent future leaks, I discarded the original stainless cover plates for the original chainplates and replaced them with larger cover plates fabricated from prefab fiberglass sheets.|I bedded the new cover plates with a buildup of BoatLIFE polysulfide sealant.|

| |Belowdecks, the chainplate fasteners pass through a long 1/8-inch backing plate.| |

| |Outboard chainplates also work well. Note how the popular U-shaped toggle is beginning to corrode while the old forged bronze toggle is clean.|

Because I tackled the project with the keel-stepped mast still in place, I worked in stages. First I removed the chainplates servicing the lower shrouds; then I made a notation with a marker signifying their locations; finally I brought them to the fabricators to duplicate in the new material. In the calm waters of a protected marina, the upper and intermediate shrouds supported the mast adequately while I worked.

After the lower chainplates were reinstalled, I repeated the steps with the intermediates and then the upper shrouds. The backstay chainplate was the last to go back in: Tension on the mainsheet and the topping lift provided the mast with reasonable fore and aft support.

All this work boosted our confidence in the rig considerably. A month later, knowing our spar was suitably reinforced, we sailed north from Florida to Labrador.

| | Tools for the Job • Wrenches to match and fit the fasteners • Heat gun to soften the old sealant around the chainplates • A narrow metal blade to cut through the sealant adhering to the chainplates • A 90-degree hook (homemade) to scrape balsa core out of the chainplate slots • Epoxy resin and hardener to build up the space left from removing balsa; plus West System 404 High-Density filler additive; a putty knife and gloves • Wide masking tape and duct tape to build up a “dam” that will prevent epoxy from dripping into the boat’s interior • Sandpaper from 40- to 60-grit to smooth out the cured epoxy • Polysulfide sealant and caulking gun • 1-inch-wide masking tape to protect the deck and the upper part of the chainplates from sealant leakage| |Longtime CW contributor Tom Zydler and his wife, Nancy, spent this summer exploring the coast of Labrador and surrounding waters aboard their Mason 44,_ Frances B_.|

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Diy chainplates.

What goes up must come down, they say, and while true of my mood for the majority of time the old adage best not apply to my mast. So, strong chainplates are most certainly in order! Eventually all chainplates, stays, and turnbuckles will be replaced, but I decided to start with the backstay chain plates because they were horrendously undersized, and attached to the hull with only one bolt and a screw.

The side stays are glassed in (whyyyyyyyyy) and the forestay is attached with a pretty strong stainless steel cranse iron. I think bronze is stronger and better than stainless for attaching the forestay and would never go to sea with glassed in chainplates from 1971, but the back stay chainplates were by far the sketchiest so they were first in line.

While the industry standard promotes stainless steel, bronze literally lasts forever. I guess that’s why yachting went in that direction, so the industry could make more money from us by flooding the market with something shiny that needs to be replaced every 10-15 years due to crevice corrosion. On top of that, stainless steel is much harder to work with. It requires a drill press to drill holes, proper tools to polish, and has an involved annealing process to the metal before and after making a bend. That’s why riggers charge upwards of $100 per chainplate for small sailboats. Plus, you can never know if the material is still good years later without a fucking x-ray machine. Again, bring in the rigger!

Stainless steel was not the right material for both long and short term self sufficiency.

We went with flat bar silicon bronze, a quarter of an inch by two inches. Overkill? Maybe. It was more than sufficient in size, especially when compared to its predecessor. We measured the angle of the bend using a wire and built a fire out of charcoal. We stuck the bronze into the fire until the end we intended to bend was glowing, then we cooled it down in a bucket of sea water and made our first bend which was very slight. We annealed again, cooled, and bent little by little until we reached the angle needed. The annealing process made the bending easier and strengthened the metal after we had literally stretched its innards.

Of course, something had to go wrong. Up until then the process had been relatively painless. Because the turnbuckles and rigging cable are also going to be replaced in the not so distant future, the chainplate had to be sized for a bigger turnbuckle. This meant the current turnbuckle wouldn’t fit, so we fastened the present turnbuckles to large shackles first, and then to the chainplates as a temporary solution.

On the mission to town to get another shackle we stopped by a used marine/antique store that’s only open one day per week for four hours. It was an hour past closing time but the doors were still open. That morning I’d lamented for hours wondering how I was going to get the larger, bronze turnbuckles I’d need for re rigging. The situation was seeming absolutely fruitless with astronomically expensive prices (both new and on Ebay) until we walked into this shop and bought these turnbuckles for three dollars a piece!

The owner of the shop recognized us from the creek we were anchored in where he happens to live. He complimented Sohund’s lines and was interested to hear about this Danish built sea dog. We didn’t have enough cash on us to pay but he let us take the turnbuckles anyway, and we rowed to his house later with the funds after we had finished installing our new backstay chainplates!

Emily, Nice job on the chain plates. I grew up sailing a similiar boat, a 1965 Kim Holman designed ‘North sea 24’ , larger predecessor to his Twister. Great boat kept us very safe and great sailer. Great score with the bronze turnbuckles too! Cheers warren

Sounds like a very cool boat I will look it up! Thanks for reading.

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Chainplates Revisited

Chainplate failures aren't common, but when one occurred on a new boat during its inaugural sail—with our reviewer aboard—we knew it was time to investigate. here's the result of our initial probing..

Following our review of the new J/133 (PS Oct. 1, ’04), in which we recounted a chainplate failure aboard hull No. 3 on its maiden voyage, a reader’s letter prompted us to review the manner in which manufacturers design and construct the critical connections between mast, shrouds, and a boat’s structure. In the case of the J/133, we concluded that the construction method—a contemporary yet time-tested approach—was properly conceived, but poorly executed.

The folks at J/Boats declined to offer specific comments, but the boat’s builder—Pearson Composites, LLC (formerly TPI)—told us that ours was a fair assessment of the situation. (More on that later.)

Nonetheless, the issue of chainplate construction and rig attachment demands further examination, particularly for the owners of older boats whose vessels may be susceptible to chainplate failure.

Like the human anatomy, which is supported by a series of bones connected at joints (“head bone connected to the neck bone, neck bone connected to the shoulder bone”), a sailboat’s standing rigging reflects many similar connections. At one end of any stayed rig, the head of the mast is supported by stays and shrouds that in most cases disappear belowdecks to connect to a metal, wood, or fiberglass section that itself is attached to a bulkhead, the hull’s topsides or bottom, or an interior grid system.

With any rig, contrary forces are at work. At the masthead, tensioned shrouds pulling chainplates upward from a grid in the bottom of the hull, for instance, are at the same time pushing the butt of the mast, or a compression post, in the opposite direction. Consider that the headstay and backstay are pulling the bow and stern upward, and the conflicting forces on the entire structure are enormous.

“The static pressure on the hull of the Santa Cruz 70 produced by the mast, with the boat sitting static at a dock, is approximately 28,000 pounds,” explained Lance Brown, president of Santa Cruz Yachts. Given that, it’s no surprise that America’s Cup boats, which take advantage of every weight-saving method available, often have major failures.

Creating a proper set of connectors, then, requires that designer, engineer, boatbuilder, and rigging specialist each scientifically calculate the loads that will act on the sails in wind and sea, and the loadbearing capacity of the standing rigging, which will ultimately determine the lamination schedule for chainplates or the appropriate strength characteristics of whatever material is used to fabricate these critical connectors.

Ty Goss, of the custom sales division at Navtec, told us that “Once the loads on rigging and turnbuckles are determined, our prototypes are tested by running fatigue tests.

“We will load a turnbuckle to its breaking strength and stress it 120,000 to 200,000 times (1.4 times its projected life expectancy) in 15-second cycles. If it doesn’t break, we know we have the right product.”

On older boats, chainplates were often fashioned from necessary, but unsightly, metal straps attached to the exterior. Unless an owner diligently polished them, the straps or their fittings typically rusted, which produced blemishes on the topsides. These same rust lines, however, could provide an owner with visible evidence of the potential deterioration of the plates, or their fasteners.

On modern fiberglass boats, chainplates are usually out of sight and out of mind. As builders became more confident of the bonding capacity and strength of fiberglass, they began relocating these straps on the hull’s inner skin, or bedded in bulkheads. However, as with the exterior attachments, the new method was not without its drawbacks, since a leak at deck level could result in delamination of the fiberglass, or a waterfilled core; either condition reducing the structural integrity of the components.

Various methods of attaching plates are used, including the method employed by Pearson Composites, LLC in the construction of the new J/133. In that case, the shrouds are connected to a deck plate, which in turn is connected to a tie rod, which is connected to a horizontal pin beddedin a fiberglass buttress in the hull. At PC, LLC, the buttress is a solid fiberglass block with a hole bored that is within 5/1000th” of the size of the pin. This basic design is not new technology; grand-prix racing boats have been employing similar designs for 20 years.

The failure of the chainplate on the J/133 was the byproduct of a miscommunication within the builder’s facility, according to Stephen A Misencik, director of engineering and design at PC, LLC.

“Miscommunications between engineering and the production floor caused the installation of the deck chainplate assembly to be located 2″ aft of where it was originally designed to be,” Miscencik told us. “This resulted in the tie rod being mis-aligned with both the deck fitting as well as the hull buttress/pinion assembly.”

The result: “When the mast and spreaders were constructed by Hall Spars, the shroud-rod connection did not line up properly, placing excessive loads on the fiberglass buttress.” Under sail in 30- to 35-knot winds and a short, steep chop on Lake Michigan, he added “the flange bond on the starboard side on Hull No. 3 failed. Only one edge of the buttress disbonded from the hull.”

When J/Boat’s designers and Misencik compared notes the day after the mishap, the error was discovered, and appropriate modifications completed for future boats. Only one of the five boats that were completed at that time suffered the failure, though a factory team was dispatched to rebuild each of them.

Misencik agrees that factory workers could have been alert to a problem when they encountered difficulties installing the misaligned rod during the construction process.

Coincidentally, he also describes a problem on some early models of the J/109 that were attributed to the improper use of a bonding material. In that case, chainplates were bonded to a grid framework in the bottom of the hull with ITW Plexus adhesive.

“That’s the wrong material to use when trying to produce a rigid structure from two pieces of material,” he explained. The result was excessive flex between the chainplate and the structure. The problem was corrected by replacing the bonding agent with an epoxy mix.

Dave Gerr, director of the Westlawn Institute of Marine Technology and a noted yacht designer, told us that the first calculation to be considered in chainplate design is the boat’s righting moment.

“Then, the design objective is to take the calculated loads from the shrouds and transmit them to the chainplates, without allowing the deckplate to leak,” he said.

“It is important to work out and detail the fastening of the chainplate to the hull because the loads on chainplates are immense,” he added.

Designers typically specify standing rigging and attachments, including bolts, that are 1.3 to 1.4 times stronger than the calculated load. This fudge factor is intended to offset the fact that, regardless of the material used, it will degrade over time with aging and a lack of maintenance.

“Special considerations, though, relate to the intended use of the boat,” said Santa Cruz Yachts’ Lance Brown. That company’s slogan, “Fast is Fun,” was coined by founder Bill Lee, who built a reputation for designing and constructing rocketships. His legendary Merlin was a record setting 68 footer that introduced “downwind sleds” to the sailing vernacular, and remains the precursor of a breed of boats that have evolved to become the sailing equivalent of a Ferrari.

“We built the Santa Cruz 50 and Santa Cruz 70s as race boats, so the interiors were of little consideration, allowing us to place chainplates wherever was necessary to align with the shrouds,” said Brown. Chainplates on the 50-footer were installed using a method mirroring that of the J/133. Shrouds on cruising boats, however, may be located outboard at the rail, for instance, at the expense of tighter sheeting angles and greater pointing ability. And when located outboard, they may be buried behind cabinetry as an aesthetic consideration.

“The Santa Cruz 52 (see PS review July 1, ’95), a performance cruiser, is fitted with conventional living and sleeping quarters, so we had to take into consideration the location of seat backs and shelving. We are taking the same approach with the Santa Cruz 53C, which will be introduced in April, 2005.”

One conventional method of locating chainplates out of the way is to employ flat metal sections attached to bulkheads with fasteners.

“The fastenings,” explained Gerr, “have to be adequately strong, as must the structure they fasten to, in order to distribute the load into the hull. The key to sizing the bolts is to make sure the load from the shroud does not exceed the local crushing strength of the plywood or the laminate that is added to the ply bulkhead to take the chainplate loads.

“Elongated chainplate bolt holes in bulkheads are common trouble spots. Without an adequate load bearing area, a bulkhead will eventually crush above the bolt, resulting in the chainplate pulling upward, elongating the bolt holes, and causing the chainplate to leak.” In a worst case scenario, the chainplate may pull through the deck.”

To avoid overpopulating a bulkhead with bolts, or using larger bolts, Gerr’s alternative is the installation of an annulus. “They are made of fairly high compressive strength material,” he said, “and increase the bearing area in the ply by making the annulus two times the bolt diameter.” The bolt is then installed through the center of the annulus. On older boats that evidence the potential for this type of failure, an annulus will extend the useful life of the bulkhead with a relatively easy and straightforward fix.

Brown describes the forces on chainplates, hull, and mast butt as “contrary forces in a big circle.” To disperse the loads in the new boat from Santa Cruz Yachts, the chainplate will be solid bar stock through-bolted with 12, 1/2″ bolts to a longitudinal stringer that in turn is bonded to the hull and adjoining bulkhead in multiple layers of 0 to 45-degree and 0 to 90-degree fiberglass laid in varied orientations from deck level to the keel. The bulkhead is located on the same reinforced section of the hull as the mast butt, and bonded to the hull and deck.

“That structure is so strong that we could cut the center out of the bulkhead without compromising its integrity,” Brown reported.

His comment brings to mind a common alternative to the chainplate bulkhead arrangement, which is the construction of a knee (envision an upside-down capital “L”), usually constructed of wood or fiberglass bonded to the hull and under the deck, to which the chainplate is attached. Oriented athwartships, the shape is typically long and narrow so as to accommodate furniture. In this arrangement, the chainlate resembles an inverted “T” shape and is typically cut from a single piece of stainless steel or bronze.

Though the knee is tabbed to the hull and deck, Gerr explained, “The knee’s tabbing is secondary bonding, which is structurally rather weak and can suffer from failure due to poor-quality installation, improper resin mixture,” or other factors. For that reason, manufacturers should build in “a large margin of safety,” he said, to ensure a tight structure that will endure hull and deck flex, as well as the worst of the elements.

The contemporary method of attaching chainplates involves the replacement of metal straps with tierods that are secured in the hull structure. In this instance, shrouds and rods meet at the center of two plates located on the top and underside of the deck. To produce proper angles at the intersection of the shroud and chainplate, and prevent leaks caused by the deck flexing, builders are employing self-aligning rod caps that reduce the possibility of a failure.

At the other end, in many cases the tie rod is attached to the hull or grid in a metal plate into which it is threaded; bonding to a fiberglass structure is an option. Thus, in many new boats, these shiny rods are exposed in the main saloon, but go unnoticed, allowing designers to meet an aesthetic challenge.

The Bottom Line Modern engineering techniques and construction methods employed by major manufacturers, as well as marketing and legal concerns, are resulting in the production of better boats than at any time in the history of fiberglass, witness the number of American boats that meet ABYC and CE standards. In this environment, the odds of a structural failure are remote and, most likely, occasioned by a failure during the production cycle, or an inferior component.

The rigging on these boats, however, is not to be neglected. As Brown explained of Roy Disney’s Santa Cruz 70 Pyewacket and her sisters, “those boats were well maintained and continually inspected. Losing a race as a result of mechanical failure was unusual.”

Regardless of the age of a boat, annual inspection of standing rigging remains a must. In addition to inspecting wire for breaks, an owner should carefully examine the chainplate system from the point where it reaches the deck to its termination. Loose deck plates may result in water invading the hull or deck. Rust on the chainplate or bolts may indicate deck leaks, loose bolts or nuts producing a water leak or, in the worst case, the total destruction of the plate itself. Inspecting bolts and plates on a bulkhead is a simple matter; and removing cushions and furniture to allow inspection of the entire plate system is time well spent.

A lesser effort might just invite major failure.

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[ ] Item #               Description                Group Category / Sub Category Price Allied Titanium Stemplate for a Seaward 46, Grade 5 (Ti-6Al-4V) Titanium with Sandblasted Finish Allied Titanium Upper and Lower Shroud Chainplate for a Seaward 46, Grade 5 (Ti-6Al-4V) Titanium with Sandblasted Finish Screecher plate for tack of screecher sail on catamarran., Grade 5 (Ti-6Al-4V) Titanium with Polished Finish Chainplate for Tayana 55 Sailboat, Grade 5 (Ti-6Al-4V) Titanium with Polished Finish Custom chainplate for sailboat, Grade 5 (Ti-6Al-4V) Titanium with Polished Finish Staysail Allied Titanium Chainplate for a 1981 Pearson 530 Cutter Ketch, Grade 5 (Ti-6Al-4V) Titanium with Polished Finish Allied Titanium Stemplate for a 1981 Pearson 530 Cutter Ketch, Grade 5 (Ti-6Al-4V) Titanium with Polished Finish Chainplate Cover for U-Bolt type Allied Titanium Chainplate on Hobie 33, 0.059 inches thick X 1-3/4 wide X 2-5/16 inch long with four holes for Item #0006179, Grade 2 (CP) Titanium with Sandblasted Finish Custom Chainplate - First size (Enter dimensions in "cut size"), Grade 5 (Ti-6Al-4V) Titanium with Mill Finish Custom Chainplate - Second size (Enter dimensions in "cut size"), Grade 5 (Ti-6Al-4V) Titanium with Mill Finish Custom Chainplate - Third size (Enter dimensions in "cut size"), Grade 5 (Ti-6Al-4V) Titanium with Mill Finish Custom Chainplate - Fourth size (Enter dimensions in "cut size"), Grade 5 (Ti-6Al-4V) Titanium with Mill Finish Custom Chainplate - Fifth size (Enter dimensions in "cut size"), Grade 5 (Ti-6Al-4V) Titanium with Mill Finish Custom Chainplate - Sixth size (Enter dimensions in "cut size"), Grade 5 (Ti-6Al-4V) Titanium with Mill Finish Custom Chainplate - First size (Enter dimensions in "cut size"), Grade 2 (CP) Titanium with Mill Finish Custom Chainplate - Second size (Enter dimensions in "cut size"), Grade 2 (CP) Titanium with Mill Finish Custom Chainplate - Third size (Enter dimensions in "cut size"), Grade 2 (CP) Titanium with Mill Finish Custom Chainplate - Fourth size (Enter dimensions in "cut size"), Grade 2 (CP) Titanium with Mill Finish Custom Chainplate - Fifth size (Enter dimensions in "cut size"), Grade 2 (CP) Titanium with Mill Finish Custom Chainplate - Sixth size (Enter dimensions in "cut size"), Grade 2 (CP) Titanium with Mill Finish Stemplate for 1971 Islander 32 sailboat, Grade 5 (Ti-6Al-4V) Titanium with Polished Finish Stemplate and double bow roller for Valiant 40, Grade 5 (Ti-6Al-4V) Titanium with Polished Finish Port and Starboard Upper Chainplate for 1997 Tayana 52 Aft Cockpit Cutter Sailboat, Grade 5 (Ti-6Al-4V) Titanium with Polished Finish Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email What's new New posts New Posts (legacy) Latest activity New media Media New media New comments Boat Info Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com Classifieds Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale Parts General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina MacGregor Oday Help Terms of Use Monday Mail Subscribe Monday Mail Unsubscribe Chainplate sealing Thread starter Roger Long Start date Apr 16, 2011 Featured Contributors Musings With Maine Sail charles baird roger, what about 5200 if you are just filling a void   charles baird said: what about 5200 if you are just filling a void Click to expand Uh-Oh... I can see where this is going.   i will see you at the marina   Hi Roger, What did you do to prep the area that you epoxied? Did you just sand it or wipe it with acetone? The reason for asking is that my large cleats fore and aft have been less than robust and I have made up aluminum backers for them. Setting them in a bed of G-Flex would seem like the best solution. Your thoughts. All U Get   All U Get said: What did you do to prep the area that you epoxied? Click to expand Thanks Roger, sounds like a plan. All U Get   Stu Jackson Roger, why not make the magenta the same as the gray? That'll seal it for good. I agree, 5200 should not be sold to any boater without 666 years of experience, boating, not just living. So, we rented this car during our vacation in New Zealand last month. The car licsense plate? DSE 666.   Roger, So long as your deck plate screws have good purchase that is a perfect application for butyl.. In order to get the tape to squish up through the hole you need to wrap the chain plate above deck and apply butyl to the bottom side then drop it over and hand press and screws it into place..   adding my 2 cents. If you use butyl don't forget to isolate it by sealing it with some type of polysulfide or silicone sealant since butyl runs black streaks if you have any exposed to the elements. I learned that when I replaced my ports with new found metal stainless ports set into butyl tape. A quick rim of sealant and no more runs. I have to agree on the 5200. Never use 5200 on chainplates since it doesn't have any give and if you torque your rigging the gap will change shape and the 5200 will not have give. One of the best sealants I started using over a decade ago is Silpruf sealant. It's a professional glazing compound used for commercial window sealing. It sticks to stainless nicely which not all sealants do well. I have info and links for GE Silpruf here if you are interested. http://ipphotos.com/view_ad.asp?Ad_ID=644   Maine Sail said: So long as your deck plate screws have good purchase that is a perfect application for butyl.. Click to expand I re-bedded my chain plates last fall using Dow Corning 795. Use blue painters tape covering the deck around the SS chain plate cover, over fill the the deck area and slot thru the deck with 795, let the 795 oozo out by pressing down on the SS chain plate cover, Let the 795 cure for 24 to 48 hours. cut thru the 795 with an exacto knife cutting around the SS plate cover and masking tape. Simply remove masking tape with the remaining 795 stuck to it. Dow Corning 795 WILL clean up with paint thinner. Oh, buy surgical gloves for this process,   Just rebedded my chainplates using butyl. You want it either warm out or warm things up a bit. The butyl will get soft and gooey and will ooze up through the gaps in the cover plates. After I just scraped off the excess. Didn't know about the black marks from the butyl. Will keep an eye on that one. The butyl gave me an instant seal as it has been heavy rain here for 2 days and the bilge is still dry.   njsail said: butyl runs black streaks Click to expand Roger: I agree. I bedded my new boarding stanchions in the butyl that I purchased from MS and it has not changed. A little oozed out when I frist screwed the stanchion into place and nothing has changed since then. No discoloration either. The old Hunter Cherubini's had the hull/deck joint sealed with butyl and that was not a problem with that product either. I have been sold on this stuff long before MS had it for sale, but I do think there is a difference in quality.   Roger Long said: Were you using RV butyl tape or the good stuff that Maine Sail sells? Click to expand gettinthere Pitch the black butyl and switch to gray!   Roger, Since the cover plates are not a strength item, and you want to seal the area, I suggest the use of 3M 4200 or Sikaflex Professional Construction sealant (available in various colours). The most common mistake made with a bedding compound is to over tighten; which squeezes out most of the sealant. You want to have a flexible gasket, so to speak, and not a paper thin layer of sealant.You have also mentioned that you can't get real tension on the screws. I suggest that you don't have to get real tension on the screws. Light tension will do it. Here is the fix for the cover plates: Put the plates into place, and mask off the area around with blue painters tape. Tape 4 pieces of spaghetti, (yes, spaghetti!!!!) into place at 4 corners, with just 1/8 of an inch of the tip of each piece protruding into the area where the cover plate will sit. Also mask off the top of the cover plate so that only 1/4 inch of plate is exposed around the area where the chainplate comes through. Mask off the chainplate so that only 1/4 is exposed above the final position of the plate. You are now ready to caulk: put a generous amount of caulking where needed. Carefully press down the cover plate until it bottoms out, and is just touching the spaghetti tips. Replace the screws: LIGHTLY fasten the screws so as to not crush the spaghetti. Now, with gloves on, break vertically the spaghetti pieces, so that the 1/8 pieces stay in place. Smear away caulking so there is a smooth fillet around the plate and the area around the chainplate and cover plate. It is smart to remove the tape at this point, as it is easiest to take off. You now have a nice gasket under your cover plates with a really good seal. The spaghetti tips will disappear with time. Just a dab will fill the indents. These cover plates will probably out last you, and if you do need to open them you will be able to, because you didn't weld them with 5200. Good luck!   Thanks from Florida. So now I know how they do it up Nawth. I am getting to that part of a deck core repair at the chainplates. I was starting to imagine how I would seal the cover plate. Butyl with a polysulphide frosting or GE sillpruf or Dow 795 and only the grey/good butyl tape from Maine Sail and SPAGHETTI. Got it! Love these forums. A home for the fleas A hive for the buzzin bees ... ... ..   This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more… Forum Listing Marketplace Advanced Search About The Boat Gear & Maintenance SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more! Cost to Replace Chainplates? Should I Walk Away? Add to quote I'm about to fly out to a pre-purchase survey on a 1985 Passport 40. I looked at a survey done on this boat last year and apparently the chainplates are original on this '85 boat. Noted was some water evidence near one of the port chainplates. I'll need to replace them regardless and would like to know what I'm in for cost-wise. I'll need to get some 316 SS water jet cut for the new chainplates and open up the interior to get the chainplates in. I'll likely do some of the work myself but may or may not depending on yard policies. Is this a $4,000 job or is it a $10,000+ job?? How much time would a yard take for this project? What would be a good yard for this in Washington? My intent is crossing oceans and voyaging for many years. I intend to own this boat for a long time. I'm experienced and have crossed oceans and I build/repair inspect aircraft for a living so not afraid of complex jobs. The survey indicates a newer Perkins installed in 2000 as well as several items I need such as wind vane and some newer sails and SSB and diesel cabin heat as well as some other recent upgrades. I realize I'll need to do a refit. I'm hoping not to do a massive years long refit turning into a money-suck. That would be dumb. If you've replaced your chainplates I'd be interested in how that went and it's cost. ...And if you know of anyone on the west US with a Passport 40 who might be willing to sell -I'm buying. Thanks in advance!   I don't think water jet is the best tool for cutting chainplates. It leaves a somewhat coarse edge that will need to be cleaned up to avoid corrosion. Personally I'd machine then (CNC or manual). There is no way that a few custom machined bars of 316 stainless steel should cost $10k.   -Hmmmm. I thought water jet cut absolutely razor clean edges? Hence the reason for water jet cutting recommendations on chain plates. I know the need to polish and then electropolish to remove stress risers after the cutting. Is your comment that water jet leaves rough edges conjecture or first hand? Jus wonderin. Thanks.   One you would have to have really GOOD LUCK to find a boat with age X chainplates The cost is very much how hidden the plates are which can range from fully exposed and easy to remove to absolutely unable to even see them Making them again depends on what you are copying and there is nothing wrong with waterjet to make the shape it just a matter of to work necessary to finish the edges and bring the holes to final size compared to other methods   As a point of reference (every boat and project is different), we replaced all of our chainplates with the rig up - 2 at a time. had new ones custom fabricated at a local shop. Did a great job! Total cost was under $400 for the fab work. We did all the installation labor ourselves.   Well, refit is a relative word. I guess I meant offshore prep for safety. Refit seems to some to mean "replace everything". I think I used it incorrectly. Currently newer sails, refer, standing rigging instruments and engine indicate a concientious owner. I think a some of the people I see on the list are really brilliant with tools and then again some should not pick up a wrench. I see the same thing in aircraft -people buy an aircraft with starry eyes then realize they do not have the federal licence to perform the work. Parts are a fortune and so is my labor -but I'm good and very fair. The aircraft sits a long time and sucks money and tie down fees. So I think I know mostly what I'm in for. I'm intently avoiding a "project" boat. I'm attempting to take emotion out of the purchase equation but boats are alluring little beasties. I'd love to hear what someone who has done a chainplate r&r has to offer as advice on cost and time.   I have been working on aircraft and boats all my life and now I own a machine shop. working on aircraft in front of your shop is demanding work and some times hard because of the tight space requirements. but working on a boat that is in a yard or in the water can be much harder and way more time consuming then you would think. it is not as technical but a bit like working on a big jet on a muddy dirt strip and all you have is a latter and a crescent wrench. if you forget one tool you could be done for the day.   its not the cost of the materials it is the labor from the yard that will put the job in the $6k range. no matter which way you choose to cut stainless you will need to finish the metal to a #7 finish ( mirror ) and passivate it if you want to prevent corrosion. water jet or Laser cut will give you just as good a finish as machining in which to start the sanding and polishing process and will cost a lot less. many boats have chainplates made of standard flat bar and only require being cut to length and drilled then polished. you can also buy flat bar that is already polished to a #7. a bit expensive but saves your on labor. if you think you will keep the boat more then ten years then go Titanium. expensive but no polishing is required to prevent corrosion.   Whats to prevent the OP from replacing the chain plates one at a time? Couldn't the work be done while the mast is still up, the boat is in the water and the yard doesn't have to know about it? That would save him thousands of dollars.   Chainplates are just one item. I'm not familiar with the PP 40 construction. What about the bulkheads they are attached to? If they need repair or replacement that adds additional time and expense. If the surveyor only noted one point of water intrusion, you might not have a major issue there. Worth a close look. As Tommays mentioned, how accessible the chainplates are will either complicate or simplify the task ? Then there's the standing rigging. But any vessel of that age is going to have needs of that nature that should be built in to the budget, unless they've already been addressed.   Bad chain plates and newer engine? Doesn't sound like a deal breaker to me.   I think I've read that some people have moved chain plates to the outer hull.   Here is how to do this on a CSY 44 CLICKY NB Several CSY 44 owners have had chainplates fail.   Am replacing the chainplates on my boat- 8 in total. Cost Stainless metal (316) $25.00 each- cut to size, drilling the holes and welding spacers on the end. $0.00 - exchanged some wood work for the labor. Brought the stainless at http://www.pennstainless.com/ they will custom cut! Installing- about $30.00 for all new nuts and bolts, and another $40.00 for bedding material. Whatever you do DO NOT let the boatyard do this project, it's not a big deal, they wanted to charge me $200.00 per piece uninstalled.! Unless hey give you a reasonable price. But you will definitely save a lot of money by DYI. And I'm doing them 2x a time while the mast is up! no big deal here!   Roland, Thanks for the support on this project!! You didn't mention the size of boat you did the work on but it sounds like you understand where I'm coming from. Liked that you noted the cost and suppliers. It's what I was hoping to hear. Now I just have to find somewhere to work on my boat if I go ahead with the purchase.   I'm working on a 34 footer- finishing up somethings- in between the storms and then will start installing my chainplates. Where are you located?   Nice boat! The Passport 40 Sailboat : Bluewaterboats.org group too! https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/PassportOwners   The only big expense in replacing chainplates is if they are inaccessible - glassed to the hull, hidden by elaborate cabinetry etc. or if their attaching points are rotted - bulkhead replacement needed and so forth. If it's simply replacing like with like it shouldn't even get to a boat buck - assuming you turn the wrenches. Take one or two out and give them to the machine shop to use as templates. They should be made from flat bar, not cut out of plate with a jet. Get them electropolished for a few bucks more and replace - then two more and so on. I did them on my Columbia 43, which included a fair bit of welding and the reconstruction of a fairly elaborate headstay fitting for less that $1K.   SloopJonB said: They should be made from flat bar, not cut out of plate with a jet. Click to expand... Now THAT is what I'm hoping for! $1000 bucks for parts and a #(*$&load of my labor should work ok. BUT, the surveyor noted that there was water intrusion in the port forward knee. Everything being equal I believe I may go ahead with the purchase simply because all the other things I'd need for an offshore boat are mostly there and fairly servieable/newer. I'll never find a 100% boat unless it's close to $200k and if I do the work I know it's solid. I would not go ahead with a boat that had a timed out engine unless it was completely compensated for in purchase price ie. appx. $18K.   Unless you simply like throwing away money I seriously suggest you give this man a call. He made my chain plates and another guys at my marina and they are WAY beefier than what I had and were almost too cheap to believe. Its high quality work but he charges extra for polishing, boring holes, ect ect. I just simply had the plates made and did the polishing and booring myself. I am not related to this man and have no continued working relation with him what so ever. Talon on this website also used him I believe after I gave him his info. Mr. James Idel. He works under the business Fab Solutions. His phone number is (904) 982-6113. Id give him a call- what could it hurt?   I live near Los Angeles but the boat is in state of WA. Intent -if I ok the purchase- is leave in WA for several mos. and purchase a WA cruising permit. Do a little work on and off. Sail south. Stop in Oregon for some days on way south and enjoy seafood. Pass Kalifornia completely without stopping ashore and go to a shipyard then marina in Ensenada for several mos. Return to CA after one year. I have retained a marine atty who is consulting me on this. You-know-why.   Actually I would like to know why. Sales tax? What is a WA cruising permit.   Well, my intent is serious voyaging so unfortunately I cannot trust any chainplates original to the boat. I'd be tickled pink to hear they had been replaced but it probably isn't so. Stainless is one metal that has a cumulative fatigue lifespan. Stainless work hardens. Work hardening means "brittle". A chainplate cycle loads and work hardens. I've heard of people removing their 'plates and breaking them in half with their hands. Easily.   I did exactly that with my headstay fitting. It looked O/K but had some brown staining so I buffed it up with my buffing wheels. It came up like chrome but there was a faint hairline scratch remaining - I buffed some more but it was still there. I took the whole fitting in my hands and tried to bend it whereupon it twisted like taffy and snapped through the hairline mark. I doubt it took 20 lbs of force to tear it in two and it had looked perfect - the hairline was nearly invisible. At that point I pulled them all and made up new ones.   Thank You! I have put his contact info in my file. I'll follow up after the survey...   FYI, after my chainplates broke a couple years ago various riggers and other experts strongly advised using the new titanium alloy chainplates are the only way to go.   Thanks. I have heard that titanium does not corrode (or takes forever). I may pursue that route but if the trade-off in dollars for titanium 'plates is insanely high I may stick with 316. I also like that Ti does not need polishing. That because I don't see the life of a 1985 boat being 60+ years. My knowledge of titanium is relative to aircraft. I gotta assume the really huge mass of titanium required to fab up 6 chainplates is outrageously expensive. Metals have recently gone sky high in price. One tiny 3/8 aircraft bolt in titanium costs about $12++. But I applaud you for having the foresight to install titanium and never have to worry again. That's peace of mind and worth the cost.   If your serious about going offshore then this project is a must and can be done by yourself. If your cruising plans are 10+ years and crossing several oceans then you will probably need to do the project again...probably in a little out of the way place with scant resources. I'm on my second set. DIY now, then you'll have the experience and knowledge to do it again.   Titnium are a waste of money unless you are going to be keeping the boat for a very long time. Even thenbe why bother? You still onlyand have ten to fifteen years on the rigging. Its just another wy to spendthe more $ then youi need. Unless your circumnaving or sailing theis southern. Ocean beefy 316 will be justa fine. Id recomend titanium too if i was a seller. Motr $ in my poket.c   This is what the person asking for advice stated: "My intent is crossing oceans and voyaging for many years. I intend to own this boat for a long time." So, with this in mind, you don't want to scrimp on chainplates.... go with Titanium. It is what you do in 2013 if you want the best.   ?             176.1K members Top Contributors this Month Bluewater Ingrid 38 Ketch The URL for this page is Ingrid 38 Ketch Added 26-Apr-2024 © 2001-2024 ./)   . . ./)   . . Buying a yacht in Russia Would you like to buy a dream yacht? Will it be a motor or sailing ship? A luxury ocean yacht for sailing long distances or a small model adapted for fishing? The catalog of our company contains a large number of proposals for the sale of yachts in Russia and other countries. 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We wish you success in conducting transactions on the yacht market! 181 marinas Advertising Netherlands United States United Kingdom 403 IMAGES Sailboat Chain Plates #1 Solaris 60 Sailboat Chainplates 22-3/4" x 2-1/2" x 3/16" Chain Plate Catalina Manganese Bronze Chain Plate Sailboat Chainplates 22-3/4" x 2-1/2" x 3/16" Chain Plate Catalina Chainplates VIDEO How to Retire on a Sailboat DC Ep. 16 My Catamaran Gets Chainplates! Polaris #17 Anchors and chain plates Removing a Chainplate from a Columbia 50 Sailboat Leaky Chainplate Repair Crafting robust chainplates for sailboat rigging ⚓️ #SailingDIY #BoatProjects #MarineCraftmanship COMMENTS Standard Chainplates Stainless Steel Chainplate Blank with 3/8" hole for attachment of Shroud. Chainplate Blank has no drilled holes for attachment to boat, and is designed for use in replacement applications where mounting bolt pattern varies, especially in older boats where Chainplates were hand drilled. Flat SS Chainplate is 10" long x 1 1/4" wide x 3/16" thick, 3/8" hole center is 3/4" from end. Chainplates & Stemhead Fittings Spars, Rigging, and Hardware for Sailboats. Rig-Rite, Inc. Phone: (001) 401-739-1140 -- FAX: (001) 401-739-1149 ... Chainplates and Stemhead Fittings are listed below by configuration, and then by the size of the Pin they are attached to the rigging with. ... Chainplates Chainplates. At Mack Yacht Services, we know chainplates! In our experience, they are the most overlooked piece of equipment on boats today. Chain plates are the base of your rigging system and need attention just like everything else on your boat. Barring hurricanes, chainplate failure is the number one reason spars are replaced in our area. Sailboat Chain Plates for sale Get the best deals for Sailboat Chain Plates at eBay.com. We have a great online selection at the lowest prices with Fast & Free shipping on many items! Skip to main content. Shop by category ... Sailboat Chainplates 22-3/4" x 2-1/2" x 3/16" Chain Plate Catalina Hunter Irwin. Opens in a new window or tab. Pre-Owned. $79.00. Buy It Now +$22.90 ... Chainplates 101: Inspect and Refit For safety and peace of mind, however, sailboat chainplates require attention and possibly upgrading. For example, many chainplates are too thin to grip clevis pins correctly. For a ½-inch turnbuckle with a ½-inch toggle, the chainplate should be at least ⅜ inch thick. For a ⅝-inch turnbuckle and toggle, a minimum thickness of. SCHAEFER Stainless-Steel Chainplates Stainless-Steel Chainplates. Model # P002_060_007_002 Mfg # 84-87. $21.99 - $109.99. Additional 50% off savings is reflected in final price above. Select a Product. -. Chainplate Covers Spars, Rigging, and Hardware for Sailboats. Rig-Rite, Inc. Phone: (001) 401-739-1140 -- FAX: (001) 401-739-1149 www.RigRite.com Ordering/Questionsp: ... Chainplate Covers are designed for use with Standard Chainplates made from rectangular bar or plate stock which protrude through the deck. Chainplate Covers fit over the Chainplate and are ... Know-how: Chainplate Replacement The exact cost of replacing chainplates will vary by boat. An upgrade from stainless steel to titanium will increase the cost by 30 to 40 percent. For me, the sense of security my crew and I felt during our aforementioned 1,500-mile offshore journey was priceless. February 2020. know how diy maintenance. Everyone dreads the day that something ... DIY Chainplates On top of that, stainless steel is much harder to work with. It requires a drill press to drill holes, proper tools to polish, and has an involved annealing process to the metal before and after making a bend. That's why riggers charge upwards of $100 per chainplate for small sailboats. Plus, you can never know if the material is still good ... Chainplates Revisited Chainplates on the 50-footer were installed using a method mirroring that of the J/133. Shrouds on cruising boats, however, may be located outboard at the rail, for instance, at the expense of tighter sheeting angles and greater pointing ability. And when located outboard, they may be buried behind cabinetry as an aesthetic consideration. Island Packet Service Snead Island Boat Works has become the go-to yard for Island Packet Maintenance. We've replaced hundreds of Island Packet fuel, freshwater and holding tanks. Chainplate replacement is routine here: our carpentry staff completes these jobs with the expertise required to leave the boat looking untouched. Chainplate replacement. Titanium Chainplates, Items 1 to 50 of 149 Marine. Rigging Parts / Stemplate. 4,064.10. Each. Qty in Stock: 7. 0006185. Chainplate Cover for U-Bolt type Allied Titanium Chainplate on Hobie 33, 0.059 inches thick X 1-3/4 wide X 2-5/16 inch long with four holes for Item #0006179, Grade 2 (CP) Titanium with Sandblasted Finish. Island Packet Yachts for sale Island Packet. Island Packet is a yacht builder that currently has 113 yachts for sale on YachtWorld, including 4 new vessels and 109 used yachts, listed by experienced yacht brokers mainly in the following countries: United States, United Kingdom, Mexico, Antigua and Barbuda and Canada. YachtWorld offers a diverse array of models, showcasing a ... Chainplate sealing I got two chainplates installed this morning. Many thanks for talking me into the solid epoxy "butter" fit. I was able to torque the bolts right up and it feels rock solid. I would lift the boat with these and stand under it. Best of all, I was able to correct the chainplate angle of the lowers to bring them more into line with the shrouds. Cost to Replace Chainplates? Should I Walk Away? BluemanSailor. 87 posts · Joined 2009. #15 · Jun 28, 2013 (Edited) Am replacing the chainplates on my boat- 8 in total. Cost Stainless metal (316) $25.00 each- cut to size, drilling the holes and welding spacers on the end. $0.00 - exchanged some wood work for the labor. 1976 Bluewater Ingrid 38 Ketch sailboat for sale in Florida 38'. 11'. 6'. Florida. $39,900. Description: Compassion is looking for a new master. She's 'jones-ing' to get back in the water and under sail as we have aged-out in our abilities to liveaboard. The Ingrid 38 is a heavy displacement blue water ketch derived from Colin Archer's famous double ender designs, inspired by Viking boats renowned for ... Boats for sale in Moscow Mills by owner Find new and used boats for sale in Moscow Mills by owner, including boat prices, photos, and more. Find your boat at Boat Trader! Yacht for Sale in Russia (92 Used Boat) We wish you success in conducting transactions on the yacht market! 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