berthing a yacht single handed

Safer pile mooring: Spring line docking

• September 5th, 2024
• Sailing Skills

You may have read one of the latest articles about my sea trial and walkthrough in the marvelous RM 1180 . Upon returning from that wonderful sailing day, the owner of the yacht performed a berthing maneuver which I haven´t seen up until then (although it may be an old hat for you) and I was so excited that I would love to tell you about this masterly performance. Why? Because it is a true easy to perform docking technique that is both safe, protects the precious hull from scratches and can be performed double handed with ease and is even due for a single-handed use. As my new yacht won´t have a bow thruster nor will I have a regular family-crew, this was of utter interest for me.

Besides, the situation at the RM´s berth as shown above is nothing new to many sailors: As modern yachts become more and more wider in the stern, berths don´t grow in width accordingly. Also, many marinas, as trying to fit in as many rows of pontoons as possible to create as many berths as possible, the passageways between the pontoons become also narrow. Even if your yacht is equipped with a bow thruster, it can get very serious if there´s a even a moderate wind blowing. This spring line mooring (with the stern line) is quite a nice alternative to perform the docking maneuver safely and in a calm way.

Step 1: Securing a spring aft line

Before we started the maneuver – still outside the marina – the skipper checks wind and determines a leeward and windward pile. It is preferrable to start the maneuver having your yacht´s bow pointing into the wind (if it is a soft to moderate breeze) so that the wind will help winding in your boat. If the wind is very strong, it may be wise to do it the other way round and count on the power of your engine , which plays a key role in this maneuver. In our case wind was light so we put the boat nose up into the wind. The skipper secured a very flat, long and flexible fender at the stern. Sorry that I didn´t take a picture, but google „flexible stern fenders for boats“ and you will see. By that, he protected the last 1,5 meters of the hull´s side. Because this is where the boat is pivoting around later.

Nearing ourselves to the berth, he brought the boat very close to the row of pile moorings (remember: Nose into the wind). Whilst we made sure that we wouldn´t meddle with the bowsprits of other boats sticking out of their berths, the portside stern line (secured around te aft cleat) was put around the pile and brought back over the cleat. It was put tight, no more than 0.5 to max 1 meter of line between our boat and te pile.

In the montage above you can see how I put my imaginary dream Oyster right next to the row of piles and a nice red stern line around the mooring pile. We are currently mooring in the wonderful Tauranga Marina of New Zealand where I found this nice drone picture, most suitable for this Photoshop-action. By the way, both the yacht and the marina fit wonderfully … But back to our landing operation. Now that the stern line is secured, all you need is a gentle push in the front away from the piles to start pivoting.

Step 2: Pivoting your boat around the windward pile

Abour the RM the skipper now simply put the engine into reverse while the guy at the stern line was ordered to hold tight. The propeller pushed the boat backward and took on the gentle push. Slowly but surely the boat started to pivot around the mooring pile to which the stern line had been secured.

Because of the fact that we did had put the boat´s bow pointing into the wind, the gentle breeze worked with us and additionally pressed against the hull, putting it more and more around. You can clearly see now why you won´t perform this is very strong winds because the pivoting may be too strong and rotation speed too high so that you´d overshoot. Without a bow thruster you couldn´t stop this motion. The more the boat turns, the less throttle is put into reverse.

You should always have an eye to check the opposite mooring pile: In our case, the owner knew exactly how long the aft spring line should be made in order to squeeze his yacht inbetween the two piles. He knows his home berth. If you happen to perform this maneuver in an unknow place, always check if you boat fits through!

Step 3: Securing the bow lines

Once the stern part of the boat has passed by the mooring pile you have made it! Because of the fact that most modern yachts carry their biggest width from the shrouds all the back to the stern, you can be sure that the rest of the boat will easily fit the berth. Classic yachts, especially my needle-shaped Omega 42 have a slim stern section and only become wider around the shrouds: You know that I am a very glowing fan of rub rails , even temporary rub-lines only fitted when berthing are welcome!

You want to have the boat pivoting inwards until you are aligned with the berth, perfectly positioned between the two mooring piles. If this is the case, depending on the wind, you unfasten the stern line and steam backwards slowly deeper into the berth. As you can see in the picture below, this looks absolutely sick! The RM 1180 just had only a handful centimeters of margin to either side and seen from afar I´d have judged she would never ever fit into that narow berth. But here we are …

Stopping the pivoting rotaion and going backwards slowly, you can put the bow lines over the piles now. If you have them prepared in advance, that´s a matter of 10 seconds. If you have a crew, they will have more than enough time to do it. Having opened the stern reeling, the transom maybe secured by one or two fenders you go on proceeding backwards into the berth. Right now, wind won´t have any grab on your boat as the neighboring yachts will secure you.

Finally secure the bow lines provisionally, step onto the pontoon to fasten the stern lines first. Then pushing forward a bit with the engine, you may adjust and tighten the bow lines as well – done! The whole maneuver aboard eAU POINT (the name of the RM) lasted not more than one or two minutes. No yelling, no full-throttle action, no bow-thruster concert.

Calm & safe mooring of your yacht

And this is finally the beauty of this technique: If everybody knows what he is doing, this maneuver is performed in almost silence. The grace of the yacht pivoting herself into the berth is just eye candy! Choosing between putting your boat´s bow into or with the wind makes it possible to use this maneuver in both moderate to strong wind. I was really amazed having witnessed this.

Of course, for my Omega 42 I will have to adjust this a bit. And so should you: Training the various methods of mooring should be done first in calm conditions if you are new on your yacht or fresh out of skipper certification. Upon taking over a newly bought boat, consulting a skilled on-board trainer for the whole crew is a strong advice. Besides, for the sake of peace at home, you may also consider to let your wife take over the helm, at least for the mooring maneuvers: But this is a totally different article though.

You might as well like to read these related articles:

Stern first single-handed berthing a Pogo 36

Choosing the right marina for your boat

The Tower of Babel: How not to tie your cleat hitch

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Re: single handed berthing idea

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Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Take the stress out of sailing shorthanded: berthing, anchoring & picking up a buoy

• Katy Stickland
• May 8, 2019

Once underway, coping without crew isn't too hard but manoeuvres can be tricky. Professional skipper Simon Phillips shares his shorthanded experience

Preparation is crucial when sailing shorthanded

Continuing his series of sailing shorthanded, Simon Phillips looks at berthing, anchoring and picking up a buoy.

Coming alongside is the source of most damaged dignity in the marina and has potential for some very expensive repairs. Planning and preparation will ensure that it will go as smoothly as possible.

1. Call ahead

Call the marina to find out which berth you are being given.

Ask where it is as some berths are not numbered logically, which side to you will be, and whether you will need to come in bow or stern first.

2. Fenders out

Put your boat fenders out on both sides while outside the marina if you can, just in case.

Ideally, have at least four lines ready: bow and stern lines on both sides, and midships lines.

3. Manoeuvre into your berth

When you know where you’re going, the helm’s job is to get the boat in and to stop it so she can be moored.

If the space is between a pontoon and another boat, this can be advantageous, even though the space is smaller, as you can gently lay alongside the other boat, then step across this one and walk around to your pontoon.

From here, lines can be thrown across and made fast on the cleats, simply warping yourself across the few feet to your berth.

If you are alone, this is just as easy: throw the lines across and step over the other boat and warp your boat across.

Once the breast lines are on, make fast the spring lines.

4. Secure alongside

Have a simple way to secure alongside with one line initially

There are many ways of coming alongside alone, regardless of wind or tide.

You can get a midships breast line on first, or you can approach stern first and drop a stern line over a cleat on the pontoon.

Once this is on, your boat cannot go very far, so throw a midships line on to the pontoon, step ashore and warp yourself in.

You could also put a long stern spring on first, running through a midships fairlead or a bow fairlead.

Tie a bowline in the working end and bring it to the stern outside everything and have the other end on a winch near you.

Once you are parallel to the pontoon, drop this bowline over a cleat and make fast the onboard end.

Motoring gently ahead with the helm hard over, hold the boat alongside the pontoon, giving you ample time to sort the lines.

An electric windlass makes life so much easier, particularly with heavier ground tackle. It’s simple to do shorthanded, providing a few principles are kept in mind.

Having the correct size of anchor and tackle for the vessel is important, although a heavier anchor and chain is better than something too light, which may not hold the vessel well.

Your considerations when deciding to anchor are the weather, wind speed and direction, now and for the duration of your intended stay, type of sea bed and the depth and range of tide.

Check for hazards in the vicinity: if you do happen to drag, then how far away are these dangers? These points will determine the selection of your anchorage.

If appropriate, agree communications before you go forward as it can be very difficult to hear even 30ft away when the anchor or chain are moving. Hand signals are best

1. Find a spot, plan your drop

Check the chart first, calculate the tide and make a plan

Decide approximately how much chain to put out in relation to the depth and prepare the anchor at the bow. Decide on your anchorage.

In clear waters, the person at the bow can direct the helm so the anchor drops just where it should, on sand instead of weed.

2. Drop the hook

Drop or lower the anchor in your chosen spot, considering what is around you, and then release the agreed amount of chain.

A minimum of four times the depth is what I would recommend.

If you don’t have a windlass, flake out the required amount on deck beforehand and make it secure on a cleat.

3. Check you’re set

If it is strong enough, let the wind pull the cable taught and dig in the anchor, or run gently astern with the engine to straighten the cable and then a short burst  of astern power for a few seconds will get the anchor properly set.

It will be obvious if the anchor hasn’t dug in at this point.

4. Fix your position and relax

Take some bearings or plot on the chart where you are. Set your anchor, depth or wind speed alarms – and relax!

It is worth checking you position and your holding if the tide or wind directions changes.

Picking up a buoy

This can be an amusing or frustrating task, depending how you view it.

It’s vital that you are aware of how the buoy and the pick-up line are lying so you don’t foul the rudder or propeller.

1. Plan your pick-up

For a conventional bow pick-up, good communication between helm and foredeck is key, especially in the last few feet where the helm cannot see the buoy.

Approach against whichever element is strongest – tide or wind. It can be tricky if either are strongly abeam.

The ideal is to be stationary with the buoy just off the port or starboard bow.

It is easier to pick up from one side or the other rather than dead ahead, so the person on the foredeck isn’t wrestling with the forestay.

Also, if the helm overshoots, they can turn away and not go over the top of the buoy, risking fouling the pickup line or, worse, the prop or rudder.

2. Make contact

There are some very ingenious boat hooks that allow you to get a line around the loop on a buoy and bring it back to the boat.

Some of these are expensive, but can be very effective in connecting to the hoop or ring of a buoy if there is no pick-up line attached.

If neither pick-up line nor fancy boat hook are available, lasso the buoy with a line attached from one bow cleat, run outside everything and attached to the other bow cleat.

Throw this line over the buoy. Use a line that sinks and puts itself around the buoy; a polypropylene one will float.

3. Secure to the buoy

Lassoing is only a temporary measure before your mooring line is secured. If you can reach the buoy by pulling it closer underfoot, then a single loop through the buoy’s hoop should be sufficient for a short stay.

Make sure each end of this line is secured to the bow cleats before removing the lasso line – ideally keeping each end on board so it can be adjusted or let go from either side, just in case.

If you are staying for longer, a separate line from each side with a full turn will be preferable to stop chafe.

4. An alternative option

An alongside pick up can eliminate the need for a boat hook on yachts with a low freeboard

One alternative method is to carefully approach the buoy astern, bringing it alongside.

This can make attaching the line easier, but take care not to foul the prop

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How to drive a boat solo: Leaving a berth single-handed

• Top stories

Crew are a great help to have on a boat but being able to use your vessel single-handed also has its advantages. Jon Mendez explains all in our latest video on how to drive a boat...

It’s especially useful when teaching new crew what to do as they can watch the first time, help out the second time and do it all themselves from then on.

Driving a boat solo also has some important safety considerations as it makes you realise what can be accomplished alone and what is just too difficult or dangerous.

Leaving an alongside berth single-handed on a 60ft craft takes planning and requires using the boat’s controls and the prevailing conditions to your advantage.

The boat we’re using has twin shafts and a bow thruster , and we are starboard side-to with a gentle breeze holding us on, there is also an ebb tide on the stern. The first step is always to work out what will happen and how.

If I undid all the lines at once, initially the boat wouldn’t move with the wind but as the ebb tide edged it forward along the berth, the breeze would then pivot us around the end of the pontoon, and both the wind and the tide would continue to push it across onto the other boats.

Article continues below…

How to drive a boat: Turning an outboard-engined boat in a tight space

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So, with the dangers established – the corner of our own berth and the boats opposite – how should we leave? Before you do anything first check that the engines are running, the gears engage and the bow thruster is working.

Next take the springs off so that there is only a bow and a stern line holding you in place. A quick glance should confirm that the bow line is reasonably slack, while the stern line is taut from the ebb flow.

Also check that the boat fenders are correctly positioned as you will need to move the bow away from the pontoon, which will push the stern in towards the pontoon.

Once satisfied, remove the bow line first and lay it along the side deck as you walk back toward the stern in case you need to put it back on at short notice.

With this sorted, prepare to remove the stern line. I like to pull the taut part of the line slightly to reduce the tension before starting to undo and coil the excess line from the cleat.

Now release the last loop which is securing the boat either from the boat itself or the pontoon and step onboard making your way swiftly to the controls.

Next check that the boat hasn’t already started moving along the pontoon, if it has a small click of the pontoon side engine astern will stop that movement and bring the stern slightly away.

Next use the bow thruster for long enough to push the bow well away from the pontoon. This also pushes the stern closer, so to prevent it getting too close you will need to use the outside engine ahead. This will pivot the boat and move the stern clear.

As the boat comes clear and roughly parallel to the pontoon either use both engines ahead for half a second to gain some momentum or alternatively each engine in turn to walk the boat out of the berth. I generally keep the helm straight ahead for this movement.

The next key point is to stop the boat mid-aisle so that you don’t turn with any momentum and get swept onto the boats opposite. In this instance we need to turn to starboard to leave so either both engines astern to stop or just starboard astern so that you are not only slowing but starting the turn for your exit.

I like to use a transit to my side to check that I am turning on the spot with no down element drift. The turn can be accomplished either by using one engine at a time or one ahead and one astern to make the turn more positive.

I use the helm for the turn on the ahead engine. Always aim slightly up-element as you finish the turn so that you are heading towards the safe side for your exit.

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10 Best Sailboats for Solo Sailing (One Person)

The idea of single-handed sailing or solo sailing appeals to racers and cruisers alike. But what are the best sailboats for solo sailing? Well, let's find out.

Whether you've been thinking of going for a day's sail without assistance or dreaming of a solo passage to Bermuda, the desire and the magic of venturing out alone at the sea is something that any sailor can experience. It doesn't matter if you're cruising or racing, solo sailing, of course, requires you to change your thinking as you'll be solely responsible for the entire operation of the boat. More importantly, choosing a well-founded boat is critical to solo sailing.

When sailing with a crew, things may seem a little easy because you share the responsibilities among the crew and support each other in case of anything. But what happens when you decide to venture out alone or sail single-handedly? Whatever motivates you to go out sailing solo, you should choose a good boat that you can perfectly operate single-handedly.

In this article, we'll highlight 10 best sailboats for solo sailing, their prices, their best rigs, and everything else that you might need to sail them comfortably and safely.

Table of contents

General Features of Best Sailboats for Solo Sailing

Here are the general features to look for when choosing the best sailboat for solo sailing.

The Availability of Automation Systems

The forces that you sometimes have to deal with when out sailing can be extreme, to say the least. It doesn't matter whether you're sailing solo or with a crew, it's always very important not to underestimate the power of the wind and tide. While you can do a lot on your own, having some automation systems in place is an important feature if you're planning to sail single-handedly. In other words, a good sailboat for solo sailing should have various automation systems to make your work a lot simpler.

So if you're planning to go solo sailing, it would be great to consider a boat with the following systems:

• ‍ Autopilot for steering
• Lines running aft (running to the cockpit)
• Roller furling
• Electric windlass
• Hydraulic bow/stern thrusters with remote

Stability and Ease of Use

Again, the best sailboats for solo sailing are generally not known for their speeds. This is because they typically have wide beams and short waterlines, which are vital in providing stability thereby limiting their speeds. In short, the best sailboats for solo sailing usually sacrifice speed and additional performance for ease of use and stability.

Boat Features

When it comes to the structure of the boat itself, it's important to go for a boat that is close to the water, relatively small when compared to the wave height, and has lighter ballast, especially when compared to the displacement ratio. The idea here is that these features can combine to increase the boat's performance when you're sailing solo.

Additionally, a good solo sailing boat should be designed with a flat profiled aft bottom section. This is to ensure that the boat can come up on a plane when the wind conditions are breezy or marginal.

When it comes to the best sails for solo sailing, you can go for the unique sail design that combines both a Bermuda sail and a gaff sail. This can be essential in giving you a more sail area on a shorter mast than is possible when using either a gaff sail or a Bermuda sail. More importantly, the combination of a gaff sail and a Bermuda sail not only gives you a greater sail area on a shorter and easy to control mast but can also reduce the heeling force that's common in boats with taller and narrower sails.

Still on sails, it makes a lot of sense to choose easily operated sail controls. You certainly want a sail that one person can tuck a reef in quickly and be able to easily adjust the sheets. You should, therefore, prioritize the reefing and sail handling systems.

In terms of rigs, the gaff rig is arguably the best when solo sailing. Although the Bermuda rig is the most common, especially in modern sailboats, you can lose some windward abilities because of its lower aspects. As such, you can choose to use the gaff rig thanks to its ease of use and superior downwind performance.

10 Best Sailboats for Solo Sailing

There are numerous sailboats out there that can be easily and properly handled by a skilled and experienced sailor. To make it a lot easier for you, the following boats are great choices when solo sailing. Whether you're just looking to experience how it feels to solo sail or short-handed, they all offer easy, comfortable, and safe sailing.

Jeanneau Sunfast 3200

{{boat-info="/boats/jeanneau-sun-fast-3200"}}

From the outset, it's easy to see that the Jeanneau Sunfast 3200 is designed with offshore short-handed sailing in mind. In addition to being a purist's sailing boat, this boat is a small and light boat that can be easily handled. Even better, it has the stability and strength to handle long passages and that's exactly why it was initially designed with the Trans-Atlantic race in mind.

With this boat, you can easily attain double figures in terms of speed even if you're sailing downwind. In essence, the Sunfast 3200 is designed with some of the latest technology to afford you the best strength-to-weight ratios. It has all the necessary features to allow you to easily adapt it to perform perfectly either as a cruising or racing sailboat. Some of its greatest features include the two double cabins, the chart table, a galley, and a head compartment.

This boat is particularly impressive when sailing off the wind and it's designed to ensure that it's functional and reliable even when solo sailing. This is perhaps because it's designed and set up for racing, so it can be great for you especially if you're looking for a coastal cruiser that can be easily handled.

Using the sloop Marconi can be the best way to go given that this vessel has a keel-stepped mast. Its maximum beam begins at 60% aft of the stem before extending to the transom, which can result in the sled hull being driven by a mainsail-heavy rig. This can then fly the masthead asymmetrical off a short sprit.

Given that the Jeanneau Sunfast 3200 is a very modern boat that's equipped with some of the latest boating technology; it comes with a base price of about $160,000. This is a vessel that's built by one of the world's premier builders and offers an intriguing blend of technology, reliability, functionality, practicality, and performance.

Having been the European Yacht of the Year for 2008, the Sunfast 3200 may just be the godsend boat for your solo sailing dreams.

{{boat-info="/boats/hanse-371"}}

If you're looking for a slippery cruiser-racer that's always ready to sail single-handedly, you might perhaps want to take a serious look at the Hanse 371. Introduced in 2003, the Hanse 371 is a mid-sized boat that was designed in a true blend of old and new boating technology. Thanks to its furling and self- tacking jib, the Hanse 371 becomes an instant single-handed sailing vessel that takes much of the strain out of your solo sailing adventures. That's not all; this boat is more popular as a result of its autopilot system. Press a few buttons and you'll be ready to go.

Although it's a little bigger and not one of the smallest boats out there, it can be a great option if you're planning to sail solo but on a vessel that offers a tremendous amount of space. Whether you love a boat with a shallow or deep center of gravity, the Hanse 371 has a commendable large galley and a spacious cabin layout.

Everything about rigging this boat is designed to be easy. Again, the jib on a roller furler is self-tacking. In essence, everything is standard and easy to use, which makes this boat a dream when sailing single-handed.

Already a classic that's known for its stylish interior, timeless look, and ultimate performance, the Hanse 371 is a coveted vessel that may cost you around $60,000.

Hunter Channel 31

{{boat-info="/boats/hunter-channel-31"}}

Launched in 2001, the Hunter Channel 31 is structured with a hull and keel design that makes it easy to sail single-handed. This is a British-made vessel that has steadily moved from the racing scene to become a well-respected cruiser, especially among the solo sailing community. Thanks to its faultless handling and impressive turn of speed, the Hunter Channel 31 provides near uncomplicated sailing without losing its impeccable handling features.

Its well-balanced hull shape can either be structured with a low or deep center of gravity. It also has an efficient twin keel to give it more stability, which is perfect for solo sailing. This is, without a doubt, one of the main reasons why Hunter Channel 31 has proved popular among solo sailors trying to sail across narrow channels.

The Hunter Channel 31 is also designed with a great standard deck layout, as well as a non-compulsory self-tacking jib that comes with a single line mainsail reefing. That's not all; the tiller steering is also efficient if you're sailing single-handed as you can steer it with your legs while trimming sails.

It should, therefore, not come as a surprise that owners of the Hunter Channel 31 keep them for a long time, so finding them on the market will be a long shot. But if you're lucky enough to find one, you'll be getting a great vessel that will never let you down if you want to sail solo.

Like many Hunter designs, the Hunter 31 can be fractionally rigged given that it has a relatively large mainsail to give it a more sail area in light winds and a small headsail with a lower sheet load. In other words, you can efficiently and easily reef from the cockpit.

At about $35,000, the Hunter Channel 31 is quite affordable and is a great bargain in its category.

{{boat-info="/boats/j-boats-j109"}}

The J/109 is unquestionably one of the best single-handed or double-handed sailboats that money can buy. Whether you're looking for a coastal cruiser or a long-distance single-handed vessel, the J/109 will rarely disappoint. That's essentially why its single-handed offshore capabilities remain popular with sailors looking to make North Atlantic crossings.

Even though it is widely categorized as a planing sailboat, this vessel is too heavy for simple planing. Instead, this is a superb boat that offers an all-round performance. It doesn't matter whether you're solo sailing or sailing with a crew, its performance is always top-notch.

Thanks to its asymmetric spinnaker, you can easily jib it from the cockpit, especially in light wind. But when the wind is on the north of 20 knots, you can pole out the jib to give you a quick downwind speed. No matter which type of rig you choose to use, the J/109 offers a fair degree of control.

In terms of price, the J/109 is one of the relatively expensive sailboats out there, though this is compensated with the high standard equipment and outstanding quality of construction. For about $58,000, you can get a great boat that offers excellent solo sailing adventures.

West Wight Potter 19

{{boat-info="/boats/west-wight-potter-19"}}

Designed for safety and easy handling, the West Wight Potter 19 is a great sailboat for solo sailing. Although its name might not be one of the catchiest in the sailing scene, it's been around for over three decades and is steadily becoming a popular pocket cruiser. The original design draws inspiration from the U.K. but is currently built by the International Marine in California.

Over the years, this boat has seen several improvements even though its original look and features still attract a large and dedicated group of followers. This is not only a tough little boat but its hard-chine hull offers incredible stability. This makes it a very easy and ultimately forgiving sailboat. Whether you're looking to sail from California to Hawaii or across the Atlantic, the Potter 19 is outstanding for solo sailing.

This is a Bermuda-rigged sloop. Its sail plan is huge enough to propel the sailboat in various conditions. This makes it a perfect single-handed boat as you can easily set it up or take it down with no special equipment.

This is a remarkably affordable boat. At around $5,000 you can get a superb solo sailing sailboat. But if you want a new Potter 19 with additional features, you could pay about $25,000.

Beneteau 31

{{boat-info="/boats/beneteau-31"}}

As a small cruiser keelboat, this French-designed boat is primarily built of fiberglass and is perfect if you want a vessel that's great for solo sailing while still offering maximum space for comfort. Its galley is equipped with superb stowage and counter space and even a sit-down navigation station with a small table.

Maneuvering this boat under power is quite easy and is well worth it for any solo sailor who is in the market for a coastal cruiser.

It has a fractional sloop rig, which makes in-mast furling a great option. This makes it easy to handle but also powerful in light winds. If you're sailing the boat off the wind, bow pulpit and an optional asymmetric cruising chute can keep things lively.

The new 31 can cost around $115,000, which is quite expensive but certainly worth it if you want to cruise the world in this French masterpiece.

Catalina 315

{{boat-info="/boats/catalina-315"}}

This is a nifty pocket cruiser that raises the quality bar for solo sailors with extreme comfort and performance. With just a 9.45 meter hull, the Catalina 315 has more internal room than most classics and remains superb for solo sailing.

Although it's a much bigger boat, it has little but significant features that make all the difference. For instance, the split backstays are great for balance and functionality. This is one of the main reasons why it won the Cruising World's 2013 Boat of the Year Best Inshore Cruiser award.

With a masthead sloop, rigging the Catalina 315 is a lot easier as it is equipped with both an in-mast roller furling mainsail and a roller furling genoa.

Even though the Catalina 315 will exceed your expectations when sailing solo, it's a high-end sailboat that will cost you north of $175,000. But if that seems expensive, you can look for a used model, which will cost you slightly lower.

{{boat-info="/boats/vanguard-laser"}}

A boat that has become a staple in the Olympics Games, the Laser may be simple and small but a real-go to boat if you want a vessel that will rarely let you down for your solo sailing escapades. As one of the world's most popular single-handed sailboats, its main feature is its sheer simplicity. This might not be the best boat for you if you love those fussy, big boats. But if you're looking for an amazing boat with a two-part free-standing mast and a sleeved sail, the Laser should be on top of your list.

The fact that it has a lightweight hull and is easy to rig makes it one of the most popular racing sailboats in the world with over 200,000 boats in over 140 countries. This is undoubtedly a perfect boat that's specifically designed for solo sailing.

This boat can be rigged using various rigs, so you should go with whatever works for you. We, however, prefer cat rigging the boat since it has no headsail and only has one mainsail. This is a boat that is designed for speed, particularly in high winds. It's also easy to set up, which makes it a marvelous option for solo sailing.

For around $7,000, this is probably one of the most affordable solo sailing sailboats you could ever get your hands on. You should, however, keep in mind that its price may widely vary depending on their availability in your area.

{{boat-info="/boats/oday-rhodes-19"}}

A real classically-styled sailboat, the Rhodes 19 is an ideal family daysailer that can be perfect for you if you're a spirited solo sailor. Whether you're planning to sail in heavy weather or fast, the Rhodes 19 is designed with a forgiving hull and is an accomplished heavy-weather performer. For over 5 decades, and with more than 3,500 boats built, this sailboat has proven time and time again that it has the characters for both beginners and experienced sailors.

With a low center of gravity, this boat remains a classic beauty that's very fast, easy to trailer, and will get many compliments whenever you're solo sailing. No wonder it is still actively raced throughout the United States.

A simple sprit rig can work greatly on this boat but you can also consider Bermuda-Rigged sloop, which is efficient in propelling the boat in various wind conditions.

Its price may vary depending on your location but something around $20,000 will get you a sailboat that's still in tip-top condition.

{{boat-info="/boats/dehler-29"}}

If like most Americans, you have a soft spot for finely engineered German automobiles, the Dehler 29 can be a great option for your solo sailing escapades. Even though the Dehler 29 hasn't attracted a huge following in the American shores, it remains an excellently-structured German sailboat, especially for sailors looking for a stable, agile, adaptable, and comfortable sailboat.

Whether you enjoy a smooth and solo cruise on a breezy afternoon or is energized by speed, the Dehler 29 is one of the most adaptable sailboats. This is certainly why it has received numerous accolades in the boating scene including the 1998 Cruising World Magazine Boat of the Year, as well as Sailing World Boat of the Year award.

Given that it's a single-handed sailboat, you can tiller steer it and cat rig it with ease to give you easy maneuverability, confidence, and absolute versatility.

With powerful dynamics and maximum safety, the Dehler 29 is one of the best German-produced sailboats that will set you back around $55,000.

Related Articles

Daniel Wade

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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How To Berth A Yacht Single Handed?

Table of Contents:

In this video, Jon Mendez shares his top tips for berthing single-handed in a big boat. Berthing alone can be a daunting task, but it is essential to learn how to safely and easily dock your yacht. The first choice when arriving at a berth in a single-engine boat is whether to go in bow or stern first. Bow-in is usually simpler, but best practice is to leave the boat as you approach.

To berth a single-engine vessel, motor in astern, stop the boat as it approaches the end of the berth, lasso the cleat on the main pontoon, drive the bow gently into the V, and leave it in gear at tickover with the rudder hard over away from the finger. Meander forward and pick up the stern line on the inside, pull an elephant ear out and above your guardrail (aka lifeline in the US), and coil the remainder.

Start at the bow by removing the bow line and walking aft, coiling it as you go so it can be neatly stowed away. Then, remove the stern and approach the dock to Port with a right-hand turning prop. The propwalk will pull the stern towards the dock when you hit reverse to slow down.

In calm weather, start by anchoring in bays to avoid doing all the manoeuvres straight. To ensure successful berthing, think ahead, know your boat, start with as short a line when coming alongside a pontoon, and put your boat fenders out on both sides while outside the marina. Ideally, have at least four lines ready: bow and stern.

📹 Driving a boat solo | How to come into a berth single-handed | Motor Boat & Yachting

Arriving at a berth single-handed in a big boat is a slightly unnerving moment. Jon Mendez shares his top tips for berthing solo.

How to moor single-handed?

For longer stays walk the line forward, keeping your centre of gravity low and pulling gently on the line as you go to help the boat swing round.

Once you are at the bow you can either tie the line back onto the same cleat or take it around the anchor and create a bridal.

Let the boat gently rotate so that it lies securely bow to the wind and buoy. Rigging a bridal allows the boat to sit directly in line with the buoy.

How to sail a yacht single-handed?

Single-handed sailing: The seven golden rulesDon’t expect yourself to do everything as quickly as with a crew. … Think ahead. … Allow yourself unorthodox solutions. … Concentrate on the essentials: What do I want to achieve? … Always keep halyards, sheets and extenders cleanly rigged and ready for manoeuvres.

• The appeal of solo sailing
• Single-handed sailing: The seven golden rules
• Tacking, jibing and more: single-handed manoeuvring tips

If there is one indicator of the fascination of single-handed sailing, it is probably the Silverrudder around Funen. It takes place for the twelfth time in mid-September – and with 439 entries, it is by far the largest solo race in the world. From wooden dinghy cruisers to carbon trimarans, from family cruisers to regatta boats, everything that floats will be at the starting line in Svendborg’s city harbour. At the Premier in 2012, there were just a dozen boats.

The participants are looking for “their own little Mount Everest”, says Silverrudder inventor Morten Brandt-Rasmussen, describing the unconventional fascination of this race, which is sailed without remuneration or measurement. For most of them, the 130 nautical mile course is “just about arriving, about that one special moment in their sailing season”.

How do you sleep while single handed sailing?

Short naps when solo sailing. I do find it easy and beneficial to nap, and on the advice of a friend I downloaded an app called Interval Timer onto the boat’s tablet. It sounds regular alarms throughout the day. I set this to go off every 15, 30 or 45 minutes, depending on the circumstances, but importantly I let it run day and night so whenever I felt I could sleep I would just lie down, knowing I’d be woken within the given timeframe.

With clear skies, no traffic and far from land I set it to a longer interval, and shortened it when circumstances changed.

I tried to make life easier for myself and simplify processes I’d need to do when I knew I’d be tired by making checklists on post-it notes stuck around the boat.

How do you anchor singlehanded?

Single handed anchoring: Dropping the anchor In settled conditions, dropping the anchor should be as easy as: Head to wind, knock the engine into neutral. When the boat has stopped moving, walk forward and pay out the anchor chain as the boat begins to drift backwards. Cleat off the line.

Ben Meakins tries out some methods for dropping and recovering the anchor for singlehanded sailors in crowded anchorages.

The actual ‘sailing’ part of single-handed sailing is fairly straightforward.

In open water you’ve got time to trim sails, navigate, put the kettle on and enjoy the ride.

Is docking a yacht hard?

Docking a boat can often be intimidating and stressful, especially for those just getting started with boating. Luckily, learning how to dock a boat doesn’t have to be difficult, and boaters new and old can quickly master the task by following a few simple steps.

• How to Dock a Boat. Prepare dock lines on your bow and stern and attach fenders.
• Line up your approach and survey the docking area.
• Judge the current, wind, and water conditions.
• Take your time, proceed slowly towards the dock using intermittent acceleration.
• Never approach a dock any faster than you’re willing to hit it.
• Navigate into the boat slip or turn to come alongside the dock.
• Tie off your boat onto cleats, posts, or pilings using your docking lines.

It’s as easy as that! It can also be useful to have a friend or family member onboard or on the dock to help assist you throughout the process. If you’re docking by yourself, remember to take it slow and don’t be afraid to stop, pull back, and circle around to try again. Place your fenders ahead of time and have your docking lines ready to tie off as soon as you’re in close proximity to the dock.

How big a yacht can you sail single handed?

A 40-foot sailboat is the maximum size for one person to be able to single-handedly control safely. It can be successfully argued up or down a couple of feet, based on the experience and abilities of the sailor. This has been proven by a great many accomplished people.

Many sailors have done amazing voyages in boats well under this length, and others have made serious cruises on boats that are considerably larger. But a word of caution is in order. To focus only on length overshadows other important criteria. Other factors figure heavily in determining the suitability of a big sailboat for single-handed operation.

I am not talking about racing around the world by professional sailors, or across oceans to some destination hundreds (or thousands) of miles away. Rather, I am talking about an average sailor, man or woman, of average stature and physical condition, who has experience and chooses to sail alone. It may be a temporary lifestyle situation, or some other factor that sets the solo requirement for a boat that is to be safely sailed on a regular basis.

How to dock a boat by yourself?

3. Approaching the DockDon’t go faster than you’re willing to hit the dock. … Start by coming at the dock on a 45-degree angle.Slowly drift in and when your bow has reached the dock gently put the boat into reverse, point the engine towards the dock and reverse until you have brought the stern to the dock.

My boat docking situation is less than favorable. Let me set the scene. My pontoon boat, including the motor, comes in around 29’ in total length. Our dock is located in a narrow channel and the pier itself runs parallel to the seawall.

That means, no matter how I come in, I have to park my boat sideways unlike at a dock that runs perpendicular to the seawall. To make things interesting, I prefer to turn the boat around before docking.

This way, I’m facing the right direction the next time I plan to take off from the dock. What takes this to the next level is the fact that there are two boats parked across the channel from me. So, when I swing the boat around to park, I have to be careful not to hit the boats that are sitting across from my house.

How do you sleep while single-handed sailing?

How hard is it to sail solo?

But with an increase in size comes greater challenges of handling the boat alone, from reducing sail during a squall to attempting to dock solo in strong winds or currents. The loads become much greater – reefing a mainsail solo on a 40ft boat is considerably more difficult than reefing a mainsail on a 30ft boat.

Many larger yachts these days are adorned with electric winches for ease of handling, but what happens if they fail while at sea? Could you still manage the boat solo without their assistance? You’ll have to find a balance between what you can handle safely and what you can afford to maintain.

When it comes to comfort, this should also be seen as an element of safety, because there’s little more dangerous to a solo sailor than fatigue.

How far can a yacht sail in 1 day?

Sailing Yacht. A sailing yacht will take you anywhere you want to go. With a capable skipper, a seaworthy, well-maintained yacht and the right sailing conditions, you can see the whole world. A fully stocked, seaworthy 30-foot sailing yacht will sail about 100 nautical miles in a day, and she can continue up to 90 days without needing to stop. Given the right wind conditions, a sailing yacht in good shape can sail around the clock at a steady pace of about 5 knots per hour. A longer yacht with a larger hull will have a faster average speed and cover more distance than a smaller vessel.

Motorized Yacht. It gets more complicated with motorized yachts since they rely heavily on a fuel source. If your parameters are how far a motorized yacht can go on a single tank of gas, this depends on the size of the boat and the fuel tank.

The general rule is the bigger the vessel, the larger the fuel tank. For instance, a 75-foot motorized vessel that can carry 11,000 litres of fuel can travel about 1500 nautical miles, depending on conditions, whereas a 35-45 foot motorized yacht with a 100-litre tank can travel about 400 nautical miles.

Is single-handed sailing safe?

A sailor tethered to the boat for safety as he reefs sails. Falling overboard while single-handed ocean sailing is almost certainly fatal, as there is no one to attempt to recover the crewmember who has fallen overboard.

The sport and practice of single-handed sailing or solo sailing is sailing with only one crewmember (i.e., only one person on board the vessel). The term usually refers to ocean and long-distance sailing and is used in competitive sailing and among cruisers.

In sailing, a hand is a member of a ship’s crew. “Single-handed” therefore means with a crew of one, i.e., only one person on the vessel. The term “single-handed” is also used more generally in English to mean “done without help from others” or, literally, “with one hand”.

In the sailing community, the term “crewed” (or sometimes “fully-crewed”) is used to mean sailing with a crew of more than one, in order to distinguish events permitting larger crews from their single-handed equivalents (even though a solo sailor is also correctly referred to as a vessel’s crew). Hence, for example, “Bruno Peyron… has taken part in almost all the large crewed and single-handed sailing events since the 80’s.” In contrast, the term “double-handed” is used to refer to sailing with two persons on board.

Do yachts get attacked by pirates?

Somali pirates are not as dangerous as they used to be, but the risk of piracy still exists, not only along the coast of Somalia but also in other regions of the world that are more popular with yachtsmen, such as Southeast Asia, South America and the Caribbean. Private yachts are easy prey in the eyes of pirates. How do you protect yourself from attack and keep your property and life safe? ItBoat publishes a translation of a Boat International article.

In Somalia, the risk of piracy has decreased, but not to zero.. The zone of high risk of falling into the clutches of Somali pirates by the efforts of the authorities has decreased: as of October 2015, its eastern border has shifted from 78 E to 65 E. Nevertheless, the old boundaries of piracy are still considered a voluntary reporting zone, and ships must take precautionary measures. Maritime security services have warned: the risk of piracy in Somali coastal waters has not completely disappeared. The military prefers to use language against piracy that is «repressed», but not «eradicated».

Meanwhile, the Indian Ocean is not the only (and currently not the main) area of risk.

📹 How To: Berth Single Handed | Motor Boat & Yachting

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• How To Sail A Yacht Single Handed?
• How To Rib A Boat For Single Handed Sailing?
• How To Rig A Sailboat For Single Handed Sailing?
• How To Sail A Catamaran Single Handed?

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I am a school teacher who was bitten by the travel bug many decades ago. My husband Billy has come along for the ride and now shares my dream to travel the world with our three children.The kids Pollyanna, 13, Cooper, 12 and Tommy 9 are in love with plane trips (thank goodness) and discovering new places, experiences and of course Disneyland.

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Single handed marina berths

• Thread starter adpmijs1
• Start date 3 Jun 2010

TradewindSailor

Active member.

Generally being blown onto the finger is a good start. If you make up a bow (spring) line and pass it outside of everything and back to the cockpit , you can go bow in and drop the line over the dock cleat and make it of on the aft cleat on your boat. Leave the boat in forward gear and it should hold the boat nicely against the finger so you can get another bow line to a forward dock cleat. I would also try and get a finger so you can berth starboard side to. The solutin to safe berthing is the ability to manouvre your boat confidently at very low speeds ..... which mean lots of practice.  

You want to be blown ONTO the finger, that is for sure. It is much harder to deal with an off-finger wind, than an on-finger wind. As you lose way coming into your slip, you will go onto the finger. That's what you want. If you can steer yourself into the middle of the slip, the wind will do the rest for you. Otherwise you will be fighting the wind as you lose way and steerage, and on the contrary will be getting blown onto the boat next door. Onto or off the pontoon -- if you have a choice (!), probably off the pontoon. That will allow you to keep some degree of power on and get you a bit more steerage.  

Well-known member

I'd choose option 3. I often single-hand my 35ft boat. My technique is to have a loop of rope on a midships cleat. Motor gently into the berth, drop loop of rope over the cleat at the end of the pontoon, then motor gently against it. Using the rudder, it's possible to line the boat up neatly against the pontoon. I can then drop a stern line over the pontoon cleat and secure it before getting off with a bow line. Works every time!  

Deleted member 36384

I had a very similar problem to solve and I chose a finger pontoon where I am getting blown onto in the prevailing wind. I use the beam cleats when coming along side single handed and the pontoon mid cleat to secure the boat. Getting alongside and off the boat to secure her is more important than departing considerations with regards to wind in my opinion.  

ancientsailor

adpmijs1 said: More often than not, I'll be sailing single-handed or very short handed (10 yr old crew!) Click to expand...

Blueboatman

Just to be different. The nicest berth is one that heads into the prevailing wind (sw) when you approach. ( But consider tides too if applicable. A strong cross currant is not fun. You havent mentioned current so assume nought). Then the only question is-in a bad blow do you want your boat hanging off its mooring ropes ( windward pontoon) or riding up and down on the fenders ( leeward pontoon)? On the other hand, your boat will handle so well under motor that with practise you will find 'em all a doddle with practise! Often a marina will let you change berths too, subject to availability. It is always, in my opinion, a good idea to attach a corner fender to the end of the finger pontoon, and a 'stop' fender to the main pontoon where the bow might touch.  

Great using midship cleats to keep control. Make your fore and aft lines long enough to hold as you jump off. I leave the made up springs on the pontoon and attach as quick as possible so that the boat cant go far and then make fast at bow and stern... However my greatest consideration would not be wind but prop walk. My current berth is handy but is wrong for my prop walk. Engaging astern to kill the last of the way swings my stern out off the pontoon and I need to compensate for this by reducing most of my speed before entering the berth.. not the best situation on a windy day. When berthing on the opposite hand that last burst astern slides the stern into place ready for me to jump off. Definitely consider prop walk.  

Contrary to other posts, I prefer to be blown off both. I used to SH my old Moody 44 and currently SH a 29 footer and have the same preference with both boats. Why? The hardest single manoevre that you can do SH is to spring off cause the wind is blowing you on. Tried various versions of highwayman's hitches and it is always hit and miss and always made me nervous. When coming in, if the wind was really strong I would simply fender up on the opposite side, come to rest on my neighbour (or their pontoon if they are out) and warp across. Mostly I managed to go straight in with anything below 20 knots.  

I agree with smeaks the prop walk is definitely something to concider, If your36cc has a Volvo engine and a fixed prop it will probably have quite a kick to port when going astern.  

As a fellow 36cc owner you are right to wary of the windage as the bow will react to the slightest puff. Our propwalk is to stbd so selected a stbd berth and although prevailing wind blows us off by using the midship cleat/spring technique we manage in fine.  

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Practical Boat Owner

• Digital edition

Solo yachting: sail and power boats for sailing alone

• Duncan Kent
• December 13, 2023

Duncan Kent looks at sail and power boats under 40ft in length that are easily managed by the single-handed sailor

High coamings on the Westerly Griffon give a good sense of security for the solo skipper. Credit: Bob Aylott Credit: Bob Aylott

There’s nothing quite like the thrill of solo yachting, providing your boat is easy to handle and well prepared.

The perception that small is better for sailing solo isn’t always correct.

What’s more important is the way the boat is set up, how she performs and how sea-kindly she can be in heavy weather .

It’s easy to assume that solo yachting is a choice but there are many occasions when the situation forces it on you, such as injury or illness inflicting your only other crewmember.

It’s also common to assume a lone sailor is a hardy character who sets off to circumnavigate the world, whereas many just happen to be on their own through unplanned circumstances.

Seasickness can debilitate crew, leaving you effectively sailing solo. Credit: Helen Melton

Either way, if you intentionally plan to go solo yachting, then it makes sense to consider what might make a suitable boat for this purpose before you buy.

Reefing when the weather takes a turn for the worse is one of the most testing moments for the solo sailor, so a well-balanced boat that can be left to helm herself for several minutes while you get up on deck to sort the sails out is important.

Better still, choose a sail boat that has all the important sail control lines led back to the cockpit, preferably within easy reach of the helm.

Full hulls , longish keels , balanced rudders and a conservative sail plan also help take the strain off single-handed boat handling in all weathers.

20-25ft LOA Sailing yachts

Hot on the heels of the successful Leisure 17 , the hugely popular Leisure 23 first appeared in 1970.

She was solidly built with bonded bulkheads and furniture for extra strength.

They were made with cast-iron fin or bilge keels and power options were a 10hp inboard or the standard 8-10hp outboard.

One of the main reasons for her enduring popularity is the accommodation space below.

With a healthy 1.72m/5ft 8in of headroom, the dinette saloon made the most of the available area while providing a good size double berth to boot.

She also featured a separate heads option with a proper sea toilet , although that reduced the size of the forecabin noticeably.

Solo yachting: Most Leisure 23s had bilge keels, but a bulbed, 4ft fin was also offered. Credit: David Harding

She also has a reasonable galley, making her suitable for cruising with a small family or sailing single-handed.

In common with many small bilge-keelers , her sailing performance isn’t the swiftest and she tends to get blown off to leeward in a blow, but for simple enjoyment and safe coastal pottering, she’s hard to beat for her size.

The later Leisure 23SL model had a higher freeboard and a different deck, which added a further 50mm/2in of headroom below.

The British-built Hunter Medina was first launched in 1979 and, being a small boat that is easy to sail single-handed, immediately scored highly as both club racer and pocket solo cruiser.

Okay, you’re not going to shoehorn a crew of four below for the night, but there’s enough space below for one (smallish) person to live quite comfortably, two at a push.

Based on David Thomas’ popular Hunter Sonata, this perky little trailer-sailer is relatively light (860kg) and sports a lifting keel that gives her just 250mm/10in draught with the keel up, so she’s easily launched and recovered.

The Hunter Medina’s fractional rig and lifting keel make her easy to launch and recover. Credit: Derek Braid/Alamy

Surprisingly, her sporty rig, flattish after sections and 140% genoa give her a performance to rival many a larger yacht.

An elderly gent I once knew entered his in the 2004 Round the Island Race and scored an impressive 97th overall.

Although the interior lacks refinement, many have been turned into quite cosy little cruisers.

Yes, she has a rather intrusive keel box and gantry in the saloon, but with a little ingenuity and camouflage it’s possible to create a feasible living space with at least two good berths.

Fully raised, the centreplate almost reaches the deckhead, however, so anything concealing the box needs to be removable.

Stowage is reasonable, especially the space beneath the berths and seating.

Sails, dinghies , jerry cans etc. can be slid under the cockpit sole and there are deep shelves above the settees.

Like most 20-footers, headroom is a paltry 1.30m/4ft 3in, but you soon get used to remaining seated when below decks.

Fractionally rigged with a bendy mast and plenty of backstay adjustment , the Medina is a sprightly little mover and, easily capable of 6-knots upwind, is sure to satisfy the urge to compete against another yacht going your way.

20-25ft LOA Motorboats

There aren’t many 24ft motorboats around that have reliable inboard engines, stable deep-vee hulls, and a reputation for handling rough seas with ease.

The traditional-looking and solidly built Orkney Pilothouse 24, however, is not one to miss off your list if looking for a rugged, sub-25ft all-rounder.

Not only does she feature a huge cockpit for entertaining, fishing, sunbathing, and spending time with the grandkids, but also has a well-protected wheelhouse that keeps the spray and weather at bay.

Furthermore, she also offers better than half-decent accommodation for up to two people for the odd night or two away.

The Orkney Pilothouse 24’s deep-vee hull makes it solid and stable in waves, ideal for solo yachting. Credit: Orkney Boats

A well-padded, hinged passenger seat opposite the comfy helm station allows a mate to take in the view or keep watch, while also housing a small hob underneath for brewing up. There’s a sink just behind too.

Stepping below, the comfortable seating in the forepeak quickly converts into a roomy double vee-berth if required by dropping the table into the gap, and there’s a reasonably sized heads ensuite.

Many were supplied with Volvo Penta diesels and sterndrives, which gave her speeds of 20-25-knots in calm waters. A few had petrol engines.

Access to the engine for servicing is dead easy from the cockpit by simply lifting the lid off the engine box, onto which removable bench seats can be fitted.

26-30ft LOA Sailing yachts

Superseding the ever-popular Centaur, the Westerly Griffon was designed by Ed Dubois to provide a better sailing experience and more organised accommodation.

Some 450 were launched between 1979-89, mostly bilge-keelers, but a few had a fin keel. Initially, weaknesses were reported around her keel stubs, but these were quickly sorted and the area was heavily reinforced in future boats.

Although the fit-out on the MkI models was somewhat rudimentary, the MkII version, introduced three years later, was upgraded and featured quality teak joinery.

Sadly, this was reversed later with the ‘budget’ Club model, after just 90 of the MkIIs had been launched.

Her layout below is practical, with wide, straight settees making good sea berths. The port settee also opens out to make a double berth if required.

The vee berth forward and nearby heads make it a reasonable ‘owners’ cabin for a 26ft boat and the narrow quarter berth works well underway unless the engine is on.

On deck, her deep cockpit’s high coamings provide a safe working area and it’s easy to brace your feet against the opposite bench.

Continues below…

Best boats for sailing around the UK: sail & power

Duncan Kent chooses the best sail and motor boats under 40ft for circumnavigating the islands of Britain and Ireland

Best boats under £50,000: Our top 10 picks from the secondhand market

Choosing the right second-hand yacht to suit your needs as the years fly by can become ever more challenging. Unlike…

Coastal cruising: best sail & power boats under 40ft

Duncan Kent chooses a selection of the best sail and motor boats under 40ft most suitable for adventurous cruising along…

Pocket cruisers: the best boats between 17-20ft

Whether you’re moving on from dinghies, or downsizing to a boat that’s fun without being a financial millstone, here’s a…

A deep cockpit locker takes any cumbersome cruising gear despite housing water and fuel tanks .

Her rig is a simple, sturdy, masthead sloop and her mainsheet is within reach of the helm, which is ideal when sailing alone.

Originally, the engine was a fairly pokey Bukh 20 diesel driving through a shaft and two-bladed prop , offering a 5-knot cruising speed and a range of some 150 miles.

Under sail, she is quite quick, well-balanced and light on the helm.

The deep fin keel offers better pointing and tracking compared to the bilge keel boats, although the shallow draught of the latter opens up the backwaters and enables her to be beached safely.

In all, the Griffon is solidly built, sea-kindly and safe with plenty of living, sleeping and stowage space, either for solo sailing or for family cruising.

The US-built Hunter range of yachts became hugely popular with European sailors in the 1980s/90s, mainly due to the remarkable accommodation they offered.

Marketed as the Legend range in Europe/UK, the Legend 29.5 was a typical example of the yard’s innate ability to squeeze a quart into a pint pot.

Unlike many UK boats at that time, this boat’s myriad windows and hatches kept the big open-plan saloon bright and airy.

Being one of the smaller boats in the range, the open forepeak, though intended for youngsters to sleep in, inevitably became a dumping ground for inflatables, cockpit cushions, cockpit tents etc, leaving the saloon berths free as shortish sea berths.

The 29.5’s piece de resistance, however, was its massive, athwartships aft berth under the cockpit sole.

Though great for sleeping when anchored or berthed, at 2.6m/8ft 6in long it could also be seen as a bit of a waste of useful space where a deep cockpit locker would have been more useful.

The galley is compact but still manages to contain a full-size cooker, a deep cool box and a sink with pressurised hot water. Worktop space is sadly lacking, though.

Solo yachting: The Legend 29.5’s large, semi-balanced rudder, mounted beneath the shallow skeg, delivers very precise control from the helm. Credit: David Harding

Another feature more typical of a 35-footer is her spacious heads. With the same headroom as the saloon (1.83m/6ft), it’s a fully moulded compartment with a shower seat over the toilet and plenty of dry stowage.

On deck, the most notable feature of the Legends is their Bergstrom & Ridder (B&R) backstay-less rig, which enables the use of a large, roachy mainsail.

The bad news is it can’t be flattened like the main on a tweakable fractional rig as there’s no backstay or traveller to flatten the mainsail in a blow.

The spreaders are swept well aft to support the mast, but this makes it tricky to sail dead downwind as the stays limit how far the boom can go out.

Don’t be tempted by an in-mast furling main as you’ll lose all the benefits of the B&R rig.

Anyway, she’s a comfortable coastal cruiser that’s easily handled by one person in reasonable conditions, particularly as the sail controls are all within reach of the wheel.

26-30ft LOA Motorboats

The Four Winns 248 Vista is a solidly built boat with attractive lines and a businesslike stance, although her high topsides can attract a bit of windage.

Despite this, her reputation for good handling and comfortable motion in a choppy sea belies her 26ft/7.9m length.

Engine choices were either the 220hp/5lt or 270hp/5.7lt Volvo Penta petrol engine, driving through a sterndrive with Duoprop.

Both are capable of getting her on the plane swiftly and topping out between 35-40-knots in flat waters.

Yes, petrol engines are a bit thirstier than their diesel counterparts, but with a slippery hull such as this and the price of diesel going up again, soon there won’t be much difference.

On deck, she is split into two distinct sections, with a natural passage down the port side. The helm station has a wide bench running across two-thirds of the width of the cockpit.

Behind this is a spacious U-shaped lounging area with a table, which is perfect for entertaining and easily capable of seating six comfortably.

Access to the upper deck is via moulded steps in the helm console, while at the end of the passageway aft is a gate through to a substantial swimming/boarding platform.

The cabin is cosy, warm and practical, with plenty of wood veneer finish.

The twisting companionway steps enabled a good size galley to be installed and there’s a fully moulded heads compartment with a shower opposite.

The large double berth beneath the cockpit is comfortable if a tad claustrophobic, but the seating also creates a roomy vee berth forward.

31-35ft LOA Sailing yachts

Launched in 2008, Beneteau’s Oceanis 31 had a sleeker profile than her predecessor and featured numerous innovative characteristics.

Below she is bright and comfortable with 1.83m/6ft headroom although the layout is fairly standard.

There’s room for six at the table, though she lacks accessible stowage other than settee bins and small cave lockers.

The tapered settees are straight, albeit one is longer than the other, and the nav station faces aft, using the end as a seat.

The aft cabin has a large, transverse double berth, while a step down into the forecabin boosts the headroom and a slide-out extension creates a generous vee berth.

The moulded heads has 1.83m/6ft headroom and boasts a shower and holding tank. Stowage is good, as is ventilation.

The Oceanis 31’s sail plan and fractional rig means she can be easily handled in moderate winds by a single-handed skipper. Credit: Graham Snook/YM

The galley, though compact, is well-equipped for a 31ft boat.

On deck, the cockpit is spacious and well-planned. The wheel allows all-round access and the large console can house a decent display.

At anchor , the helm seat lifts for access to a wide transom step, boarding ladder and deck shower.

Neatly, the port quarter seat conceals the liferaft and a two-bottle gas compartment, and there’s a deep locker for cruising gear.

The genoa tracks are inboard, while the shrouds are on the toe rail, leaving a clear walkway forward.

Her foredeck has a single, offset bow roller and a deep chain locker with a windlass plinth. Her fractional rig and moderate sail plan make for easy handling.

Only the kicker and topping lift are at the mast, while all other lines lead to the cockpit.

The genoa winches are within reach of the helm, but the mainsheet, annoyingly, is on the coachroof as standard.

The Oceanis 31 is a light boat with shallow underbody and full waterline, so she’s no slouch and can be sailed single-handed with ease.

She points high and, despite her relatively low ballast ratio, easily handles full sail in moderate winds.

The concept of the Freedom 35’s freestanding rig was developed in 1976 by American Garry Hoyt, in a mission to create a fast, but easy-to-handle cruiser/racer.

Hoyt was determined to take a fresh look at the sailing rig to simplify its build and operation. Incorporating modern materials and techniques enabled him to create a ketch rig using twin, keel-stepped, unstayed masts from carbon-fibre or aluminium.

The flexible masts bend at the top when a strong gust hits the sail, effectively spilling the excess wind.

These unusual masts, along with self-tacking, wrap-around sails and aluminium wishbone booms, attracted considerable attention.

On this Freedom 35 all lines are led aft to 14 rope clutches and two winches by the helm. Credit: Colin Work

The Freedom 35 performed so well it became a regular frontrunner at many of the world’s most prestigious yacht races.

Keeping the centre of effort low, the booms allow the curve of the sail to continue all the way down to the foot, allowing the sail’s entire surface to be used for maximum efficiency.

Its masts enable the rig to withstand winds up to Force 6 before reefing, a process that takes little time and effort as the sails simply drop down into the wishbones.

A stay-less rig removes the stress on the hull and deck created by normal standing rigging . It also enables the sails to be wrapped around the masts, creating a clean leading edge and a more efficient ‘aerofoil’ shape.

Off the wind there are no shrouds or spreaders to interfere with the sail, so on a dead run they can be set wing-on-wing for optimum balance and speed.

Available with a shoal, centreplate or deep keel, the popular shoal keel is full length and quite shallow (1.06m/3ft 6in with the plate up).

The deep, contoured centreplate offers plenty of lift upwind and, weighing half a tonne, adds considerably to the ballast. S

he has a narrow beam for increased performance and sea kindliness, although this does adversely affect the accommodation.

The saloon tends to be dominated by the centreplate box, although what space there is has been utilised to maximum effect.

31-35ft LOA Motorboats

Produced from 2003 to 2007, the Bavaria 32 Sport is a popular and economically priced sports cruiser that is stable and easy to control, even in choppy waters.

Initially, engine options were twin 170hp or 260hp Volvo KADs, though from 2004 these changed to the more modern and efficient 210hp and 260hp Volvo D4s.

Twin V6/230hp and V8/320hp Volvo petrol engines were also available, which command a lower price today, but if you’re into outright performance, the big V8 offers an exciting 40-knot-plus ride!

She has a reasonably practical layout on deck, although the curved navigator’s seat opposite the standard single helm seat is not ideal.

The Bavaria 32 Sport can eat up the miles, and was offered with Volvo V8 engines. Credit: Alvey & Towers Picture Library/Alamy

There was an option for a twin helm seat with a single navigator’s seat, which I think works better, especially as it offers a chart table as well.

Although you do lose the neat dinette arrangement with this layout.

Everything important is within easy reach of the helm and the seat base flips up to facilitate standing when necessary.

A hardtop version was introduced in 2006; these are rarer and a little more expensive to buy.

The 32 Sport offers spacious accommodation with over 6ft of headroom and seating for four in the open-plan saloon.

The large vee berth in the forepeak has no floor space or door, but a midships cabin has twin straight berths.

The galley is adequate, while the heads compartment, though compact, has a shower.

For a budget production boat, the 32 Sport is well made, but a bit short on luxuries. In the smiles-for-miles stakes, though, she’s a winner.

36-40ft LOA Sailing yachts

One of the popular Grand Large range of Dufour cruising yachts, the Dufour 365GL is an impressive all-round cruising yacht that is tame enough for solo yachting while proving to be a competent offshore family cruiser when required.

The hulls are hand laid up using the latest techniques, materials and waterproof resins resulting in a very strong structure throughout.

Twaron-reinforced stringers criss-crossed by robust grid frames spread the rig loads right down to the keel.

Her PVC sandwich decks are injection moulded for maximum rigidity and lightness, which in turn creates extra headroom and provides a smart and smooth deckhead finish.

Her long waterline, plumb stem and short transom platform give her a racy look on the water.

Add a sporty 9/10ths fractional rig, deep rudder and keel ballast bulb and she becomes a swift, yet sea-kindly boat in almost all conditions.

The Dufour 365 Grand Large has a hand laid hull for lightness and rigidity and features injection moulded PVC sandwich decks and reinforced stringers and robust grid frames. Credit: David Harding

She sails upwind effortlessly and efficiently, pointing extremely well and leaving bigger boats in her wake.

Much thought has been put into the deck layout and sail controls to make her an ideal boat to sail single-handed, or as a couple.

The single line reefing option makes shortening sail from the safety of the cockpit easy and her headsail can be trimmed from the helm if no other crew are available.

Below, the internal volume is maximised by providing a generous beam that broadens early and extends a long way aft, allowing for a roomy forecabin and either single or twin aft cabins.

Both models have a linear galley with a large dinette, which is ideal for use in port or at anchor, but not necessarily the best arrangement for cooking and eating on passage.

The British-built Southerly 110 was introduced in 1999 and was the first of the marque to sport canted twin rudders and a modern, near-plumb bow.

Renowned for their swing keels which, when fully retracted, reduce her draught to a mere couple of feet, the 110 proved popular among those with a desire to go creek-crawling or anchor where only catamarans dare venture.

Going below, the tall bridge deck and steep companionway make access a little awkward, but her low cabin sole and high coachroof offer loads of headroom.

The galley and navigation areas are raised to give the chef and navigator excellent all-round views, almost equal to those of a deck saloon.

Two steps down lead into the saloon, with its large, U-shaped seating to port and long, curved settee opposite.

Although there is plenty of seating space for dining, the keel plate box limits access around the table to one-way.

The forecabin is small for a 36-footer and features twin crossover bunks rather than a vee-berth.

With a 2.18m/7ft 2in draught with the keel plate down (just 0.70m/2ft 4in with plate fully raised), the Southerly 110 has great pointing ability when sailing upwind. Credit: Malcolm White/TI archive

The aft cabin, however, is a completely different kettle of fish and boasts a large offset double berth, abundant stowage, and a wide desk/dresser.

The headroom is somewhat limited (1.5m/5ft), but the well-appointed ensuite heads has 2m headroom and ample elbow room for showering.

With her keel plate fully extended the 2.18m/7ft 2in draught gives her excellent pointing ability when sailing upwind.

Despite her relatively small self-tacking jib, the 110’s large mainsail is powerful enough to drive her on with alacrity.

Maxing out at around 7.5-8.0 knots and averaging 6.5-knots on a long passage puts her well into the performance cruiser bracket for a 36ft yacht.

In light airs, she’s easy on the helm, directionally stable and swift to accelerate in the puffs.

Although the self-tacker makes her a little sluggish through a tack in these conditions, the advantages of such an easy set-up in busy waters like the Solent are manifold.

This, combined with her ability to sail in 2ft of water, makes her perfect for confined spaces and shallow water sailing.

Furthermore, when you want a break you can simply park her on the beach and light the barbecue!

36-40ft LOA Motorboats

Motor yachts above 36ft LOA tend to be quite large and more awkward to control at close quarters, especially those with high topsides due to the increased windage.

For this reason, we haven’t recommended any larger motorboats here.

That’s not to say there aren’t people cruising solo in bigger motorboats, it’s just that almost all owners of larger motorboats tend to have crew on board to help them.

If you do own a 36ft+ motorboat and sail it entirely on your own then please do email us and let us know as we’d be very interested to hear how you go about handling it at close quarters such as into a typically tight marina berth.

Enjoyed reading Solo yachting: the best sail and power boats for sailing alone?

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