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building a anchor locker?
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That’s the best place to sleep. They make anchor hanger brackets for the bow pulpit.
i do have a bow roller. but no place to store anchor chain and rode.
Suncor Chain and Deck Pipe - S3810-0000-C
and ... don't forget a drain.
a big heavy duty rubbermaid under the hatch, don't drill holes for such things in a 22 foot boat. Before you go anchor, move the rubbermaid into the V berth. unlock the hatch. The anchor weighs what 10 lbs? You can thank me later when you can stow the whole thing in a lazarette when you need sleeping space back (or you can leave on deck while you sleep). I do agree with others with the idea of hanging from the bow pulpit, maybe a galvanized quick attach or something for the anchor rode.
20lbs. rubbermaid sounds like a cheaper way to go. you got any pics of the hanger system on bow pulpit for the rode and chain? the anchor i will just tie to cleat on deck. and keep it on the bow roller.
Putting and anchor and chain in the forepeak full-time will impact the way the boat handles if there is a lot of chain. How long a line will fit in there? You may want to try putting a 150 foot coil of rode in there to see. If it doesn't fit, it isn't going to work. Shnool has a good idea with the rubbermaid bin. You could also hang the anchor from the pulpit and store the rode aft, leaving it connected but simply running along the deck. That would keep it ready to use but out of the way with a lot less work. Water gets into anchor lockers at the bow - rain as well as spray. Designing an anchor locker with an opening top would need to make the hatch fairly watertight. You would not want a wave to come aboard, fill the locker and not have it drain out enough before the next wave hit. The weight of the water could blow the bulkhead door open and allow it to fill the boat. The next wave might sink you.
Depends on the boat I suppose.... and perhaps the designers expected/planned for chain in the chain locker????
Bruce and Delta Anchor Roller | West Marine
Chain & Rode Pipes | West Marine
Access hatches | west marine.
Fluke-Style Anchor Rail Mount | West Marine
marcjsmith said: Personally on the deck I would install a pulpit hanger (cheaper than an anchor roller), and a deck pipe. line (100') and chain(20') would fall through the deck pipe into the locker at the foot of the v berth. the bitter end of the line would be deadmanned inside the locker. at the foot of berth I would install an inspection hatch or some sort of cover over the opening. Will help keep the line and chain from messing up your cushions and help keep the aroma contained. you will either need to add an overboard drain with a clamshell on it(needs to be above the waterline) or a way for moisture from the deck pipe and anchor line to get to the bilge so it can be pumped out by your bilge pump. this might entail drilling limber holes to allow the water to migrate. ... regarding the above pic... I would not use a dorade vent that is facing towards any waves. Click to expand...
ok so, i already have the bow roller. already have a place to store the rode and chain . (wich is in my original picture) . have the navy anchor, (wich will be fortress) , have 150ft rode. need to get chain. so assuming i use this spot. , what i would need instead of cutting a hatch into the deck , would be just a deckpipe, a through hull for drain. or a run to bilge? and a inspection hatch cover for the bulkhead .? am i correct in this? and if so than i have already found a deckpipe for way less then expected.
I would not cut a hatch into the deck. deck pipe yes. either drain into the bilge or you drill a hole through the hull (my preference would be let it drain to the bilge) and if starts becoming an issue, then you drill a drain hole into the hull. I would add a hatch or cover to the V berth area. And as @OntarioTheLake suggested you could coat the back side of the v berth panel with a layer of glass/epoxy to water proof it. my moody's anchor locker bottom is below the water line, so rather than building up the chain locker to aboce the witerline and lose storage space, I let it drain into the bilge.... Not ideal by any stretch, but if I get more than a couple cups of water into the chain locker that goes to the bilge I'd be surprised.
im good with fibreglass work, if i do this i will be going right to bottom of hull . making a bulkhead down below the vberth and glassing it in . so i will have space. as for the deck i will put in a deckpipe . buy an anchor hanger and call it a day after that. thank you all for the insight into this and will post more when i am starting and finished. cheers to all
as for deadmaning the rode? i am assuming what you mean is attaching it to a solid point so you dont lose it? so i was thinking adding a eye bolt to the underside vberth bulkhead and using either a carabeener or a shackle. as for draining. i will also add in a bilge pump leading to a through hull above waterline. with a clam to go over it.
Attaching the bitter end of the anchor rode to a fixed eye can be problematic. The eye could pull out if it's not properly reinforced. On our J/36 we attached the rode to a section of 2x4 that we laid in the bottom of the anchor locker. If the line got all payed out the 2x4 would prevent the end from going out the deck pipe and spread the load over the underside of the deck when it got pulled tight. Our deck pipe was a vent similar to the one in post #11. Under way we had it facing aft to keep water out, and when we anchored it was easy to turn it forward or towards the bow cleat, as needed.
i wasnt thinking the screw in type eye. i was thinking the bolt on type.
Even a bolted-in eye can pull through a plywood bulkhead if the load isn't spread properly.
My deadman is nothing more than a hole in the bulkhead near the tabbing and a dogbone tied in the bitter end. If it pulls through 1” glassed ply then it has a 2” hole in the deck to get through. If that happens, I’ve got bigger problems.
Assuming that locker at the fore of the v-berth is large enough, there are several cautions. First, as mentioned, if it wasn’t purpose designed to be a wet locker, you’ll need to reinforce it and provide a drain so that your berth doesn’t get wet from dripping rode or onboarding water through the dec penetration. The best setups put a shelf above the drain, so the rode doesn’t marinate and rust/rot. The locker needs to be notably deeper than necessary to hold all the rode, if you only use a hawse pipe. It will castle beneath the hole and, without a deck hatch, you can’t move it around, as you retrieve the rode. Which notes the opposite problem as well. When deploying rode, it’s not uncommon at all for it to jam, beneath the hole. While many rode lockers only have hawse pipes, you’ll need to go below and open the water tight inside access to free it. Don’t store things in your way. All the while, you’re presumably drifting around the anchorage. Finally, muddy, algae, dirty rode smells bad. That forward locker will want to be very secure. If it wasn’t purpose designed, all of this isn’t likely to work.
well i can tell it wasnt purposely built. (for anchor locker ) i guess that i will try to hang everything off bow rail then. what a pita.......
You’re trying to turn an early small day sailer into a modern cruising boat. The size and design are going to present challenges, and not all solutions are going to be what you’d really want. I say sail it, and don’t bury too much time and money into it. Love it for what it is. You’ll never get the money for the upgrades back when you decide you want a Sabre 34.
over thinking the whole process? maybe i am , i just cant see how hanging everything on the bow rail wont affect the sails?
1982oday22 said: over thinking the whole process? maybe i am , i just cant see how hanging everything on the bow rail wont affect the sails? Click to expand...
1982oday22 said: i just cant see how hanging everything on the bow rail wont affect the sails? Click to expand...
1982oday22 said: its my sanctuary, its whats going to keep me sane. and i can go for longer than a day once im done upgrading and adding what i need too. Click to expand...
Lotta good advice here. We've all been where you are, Cap, and 99.99% of us have larger boats now. Nothing simple about cutting holes, correctly, in the deck, either. Use butyl tape. If you really are creating an overnight sanctuary, buy an up-sized modern non fluke anchor, 20' of real chain, not hardware store stuff, and sleep tight.
As suggested try storing your rode in bag in cockpit locker and deploying anchor from cockpit. Can walk rode outside up to bow after set. Easier to control boat/tiller. If want to test, can mount danforth type anchor to stern rail, using a piece of PVC tube before purchasing a proper mount. Strongly suggest use 8 Plait/Brait rode as much more compact than 3 strand and will not hockel. Will usually make deploying anchor much easier/faster. Remember to secure bitter end. No rode in locker up forward will keep V berth/cabin a much more desirable place to sleep/spend time. You will always have option if not to your liking. And you'll have more time for those other projects/sailing!
8 plait is way outta my budget.... i could run a pvc pipe down to beneath the vberth from the hawsepipe..... that way its a bit quieter ? i still have to make a new bulkhead under vberth and make compartments for storage. again thats another winter project. i have 3/8 Inch Premium Solid Braid MFP Anchor Line Anchor Rope with Stainless Steel Thimble
MFP is not well suited as anchor line. It floats. Did you buy this on Amazon? I know it's cheap, but taking their word for whatever is marketed as "marine" can be downright dangerous. I know you have a 22ft boat and I do not know the conditions in which you plan to cruise or anchor. To serve as an example/warning, I ordered solar sunglasses on Amazon, hoping to see the partial eclipse here. They were noted as ISO, CE, etc certified. Last week, I got a note from Amazon telling me not to use them, as they were counterfeit. They fully refunded the money and I tossed them. However, I'm certain this was a unique identification, as millions of people may have suffered eye damage yesterday and that would have been horrible PR, for Amazon. I don't think they care if your anchor line is crap.
?
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Improve Your Anchor Chain Locker
By Roger Hughes
Updated: February 16, 2018
The chain locker in the forward-most part of the bow of my Down East 45 schooner, Britannia , was totally inadequate for the 250 feet of 3⁄8-inch chain that I considered a minimum for my 22-ton boat.
Every time we weighed anchor — even when only part of the rode had been laid — the chain always piled up in the locker and jammed the windlass. To allow the remainder to be wound in, someone had to then scramble over the forward cabin bunks, open the locker’s equally inadequate little door and push the pile of wet chain to one side. Sometimes this had to be done twice, and was very tiresome, especially when my wife and I were the only two crew aboard.
The chain would not self-stow because the locker was in the steep V-shaped section of the bow and the chain had no room to spread as it piled up. There was nothing that could be done to enlarge this space, but every time it happened, I swore I would somehow try to reroute the chain into one of the large compartments under the V-berth bunks. These were easily large enough to accommodate all the chain, and only used for storage of spare pipes and lines we hardly ever used.
If we could relocate the chain, there would be an additional advantage: 250 feet of 3⁄8-inch chain weighs about 420 pounds, so the farther aft the chain could be stowed, the lighter the weight on the bow. It is always better to keep weight on a boat’s extremities to a minimum (at both ends) to reduce pitching.
There were two large compartments under the forward cabin bunks, the aftermost one being the widest and deepest; it was 33 inches deep and 21 inches fore-and-aft, and spanned the width of the hull. The question was how to direct the chain into one of these compartments. The larger one also had a solid fiberglass floor, which would be ideal for a chain locker because the chain could spread better on the flat surface, unlike the V-shape of the bow.
I considered how to redirect the chain into this larger space, which is 4 feet farther aft from the existing chain locker and directly under the bunks when the filler board and cushion are in. I couldn’t run a tube directly from the navel pipe into the new locker because it would pass straight through the middle of the forward double berth.
Previously, when I installed a new Maxwell electric windlass to replace the old manually operated one, I positioned it on top of the bowsprit. The chain then ran smoothly from the bow roller, around the windlass wildcat (also known as a gypsy) and down through the navel pipe into the chain locker.
The only possible route for the chain was down through the existing locker, around an almost 90-degree curve and through a tube under the bunks. But would it then continuously feed under its own weight?
I decided to experiment using some 2-inch-diameter plastic conduit pipe that is normally used to carry electrical wires. I bought this from our local Lowe’s hardware store for about $10, including a 90-degree elbow. It is amazingly strong stuff, with a wall thickness in excess of 1⁄8 inch, and very rigid when connected together.
Because it was a near-vertical drop, the chain easily rolled off the wildcat and down into the original chain locker. However, to get it into my new locker it then needed to pass through the curved pipe and travel a further 45 inches along a tube to finally fall into the center of the new compartment. The long tube would therefore need to be angled downward enough to help overcome friction as the chain slid along it, and it would need to have a deep enough fall at the end for the weight to haul the rest of the chain in a continuous, automatic feed. I had no idea what sort of slope would be needed, or how much fall the chain needed to continuously drag itself through this pipework. Nor could I experiment with the angle of the pipes in the actual locker because the 2-inch- diameter tube had to pass through a bulkhead between the two compartments, and I didn’t know where to drill the large hole.
There was only one way I could think of to determine a suitable angle. I assembled a crude mock-up, using my workbench and a stepladder to hold the tubes. The down pipe, which would pass through the old locker, was 34 inches long; the pipe to carry the chain into the center of the new compartment was 45 inches long. It all looked somewhat amateurish, but it gave me an idea of what sort of angle was needed. I used 50 feet of 3⁄8-inch chain and fed it through the tubes; after a bit of adjustment, I found a minimum slope of approximately 10 degrees allowed the chain to run continuously as I fed it into the top pipe. I took measurements and transferred them to determine where the hole needed to be cut in the bulkhead between the two compartments.
Before I could install anything, I had to haul all the chain off the boat and pile it up on the marina dock to give me a clear working space.
Luckily, the plywood base of the bunks had only been screwed to the beam structure underneath, so I removed the complete starboard-side section, which gave me much more space to work in. I marked where the hole needed to be in the intervening bulkhead and cut a hole using a 2½-inch hole saw. I also had to greatly enlarge the tiny drain hole in the bottom of the original chain locker to be able to position the 2-inch-diameter curved pipe. I didn’t want this to show above the 6-inch bed cushion, so I kept it at 5 inches above the bed boards.
I found it impossible to use solid pipe to connect the navel pipe on deck to the curved tubing below because the angles were completely misaligned. I therefore bought a length of flexible truck fuel-hose tubing from a NAPA auto-parts store, which was just right, with a 2-inch internal diameter. I was able to join it directly to the 2-inch round flange on the navel pipe using a hose clamp, then clamped the other end to the conduit elbow at the bottom of the locker. This gave the chain a perfect lead into the conduit elbow.
When it was all finally assembled, I had a continuous, waterproof tube all the way from the deck, straight through the old locker, around the curve and along the pipe into my new chain locker. The total length was 86 inches.
Having installed all the tubing, I still couldn’t be absolutely certain if all this effort would actually eliminate the banking-up problem. I had used only a small length of chain in my simulation, but as it piled up in the locker, the distance it had to fall would reduce. So, the question was, would the fall still be enough for the chain to continue to self-feed right to the last link? There was only one way to find out.
As I assembled the pipework, I ran a ¼-inch rope inside to enable me to pull the first links of chain through the tubes. I passed this line over the windlass wildcat and tied it to the first link, then easily pulled the chain through the complete tube and shackled it to a hefty eye-bolt, which I bolted through the locker bulkhead. The maximum fall, from the end of the pipe to the bottom of the new locker, was 27 inches, and the chain landed right in the center of the locker.
The base of the new chain compartment was much bigger than in the bow, and also flat. I hoped this would allow the chain to disperse itself into a larger pile. Happily, this proved to be the case, because all the chain ran into the new locker on its own — every last link!
I fancied I even saw a little smile from the windlass, which would no longer have its teeth almost pulled out every time the chain jammed.
In the original layout, seawater coming in on the chain, which can be quite substantial, especially with a full-length rode, drained into the bilge. The boat manufacturers had put two drain holes in the bottom of the flat compartment floor, which drained into the bilge channel also.
I was confident this redirecting exercise had solved the vexing problem, but you never know on boats. Murphy is always just around the corner.
If, just to be awkward, the chain ever jammed up again, the only way to knock the pile over would be to move the bulky berth cushion, with all the sheets, covers and pillows, lift the locker door and reach down into the deep space. I could see this would actually be more of a nuisance than before. I therefore had a plan to be able to get to the chain pile easily and quickly. The rear of the new compartment formed the back of a seat between the V-berths. I cut a large aperture in this panel, which offered immediate access to the chain compartment without having to disturb the bunks. This also did not need a door, because the seat-back cushion and berth above covered it up. It just needed trim around the edges.
Britannia now has a totally self-feeding anchor-chain system, which hasn’t failed so far, even on the rare occasions I have anchored using all 250 feet of the rode.
I did receive a complaint from the first guests who used the forward berth: They said it sounded like an earthquake as we weighed anchor one morning. But I didn’t pay much heed; they should have been up as we got underway anyway.
On the plus side, Britannia ‘s bow came up about an inch, due to shifting the heavy chain farther aft.
Does your boat have an inadequate chain locker that won’t accept all your chain without having to knock the pile over? If you can manage to fix it, it will come as a wonderful relief every time you weigh anchor and all the chain mysteriously disappears below.
Suppliers and Cost
2-inch-diameter pipe and curved bend
Lowe’s
$10
2 1/2-inch hole cutter
Lowe’s
$12
Two 2 1/2-inch-diameter pipe clamps
Lowe’s
$7
2-inch flexible tube for navel pipe
NAPA
$17
Do-it-yourself sailor Roger Hughes is a frequent contributor to Cruising World.
More: anchor , Anchor Chain , How To
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Anchor Lockers II
Photos by Ralph Naranjo
1. When a boat is floating at rest, an anchor locker drain should be able to shed all water in the locker. Residual water evaporates, but it leaves the salt behind. The brine combines with the sulfur-laden bottom residue, creating a galvanic reaction and a puddle of rust. Even on this new boat, anchored only a few times, water trapped in the anchor well has already becoming a chemistry experiment.
2. An anchor locker lid that is an alloy framed deck hatch has a better chance of creating a watertight seal than the typical gasketed lids. In this case, however, the chain fall is mere inches before the chain has to bend at a right angle as it drops into the locker. Both chain stripping and castling will likely be an issue.
3. Loose- fitting hatches and mediocre gaskets invite moisture below. Some 4. vessels (like the Tartan in picture 4) have a gutter around the perimeter of the hatch to lead water to a drain. This setup won’t keep leaks at bay during a heavy-weather beat to windward. Add wiring—like the setup on the Jenneau/Beneteau in picture 3—to the flood zone, and it’s a good idea to make sure that the windlass breaker is located elsewhere and is turned off.
5. This cable-tied chain rode is a perfect example of how an all-chain rode should never be secured. In an emergency, the anchor rode could not be quickly or easily slipped. Attaching the chain to a shackle and 20 feet of rope secured by bowlines allows for a much quicker escape as crew can slip the knots or cutaway the line from the deck, rather than having to scramble around in a locker.
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Ultimate Boating Giveaway
Assessing the Build Quality of an Anchor Locker
By Pete McDonald
January 24, 2022
It’s hidden away under a hatch at the bow, but what’s inside can say a lot about your boat. Of course, there are certain things to look for in an anchor locker to help the stowed anchor inside do its job, but it also can reveal much about the quality of your boat’s construction. Take a look inside the anchor locker shown here, from a Regulator 41, to get an idea of what to look for in a quality build.
[1]Gas-Assisted Struts
Gas-assisted struts or shocks that hold open the hatch are essential for keeping your hands free to work the anchor. The last thing you want in rough seas is to have one hand holding up the hatch while you work inside the locker.
[2]Gasketed Hatches
A gasketed hatch ensures a snug fit with the anchor locker and helps prevent rattling or pounding while underway. It also helps prevent water intrusion into the locker from the deck.
[3]Self-Draining Gutter
The gutter around the locker’s opening prevents water intrusion from the deck, and the two drains help the water quickly exit so that it doesn’t collect. Pooling water in an anchor locker can cause mildew and damage the anchor line.
[4]Easy Access to the Anchor Rode
Note how Regulator made a cutaway in the locker to access the anchor rode. This is essential to manage any issues with the anchor chain or kinks in the line that can jam up the works, particularly when dealing with an electric windlass.
[5]Chain Stop
Every anchor locker, whether it has a windlass or requires manual deployment of the anchor, should have a chain stop to hold the anchor in place while it’s being stowed so that it doesn’t accidentally cut loose and drop under the boat while you’re running.
[6]Rode Washdown
Not every boat has this, but the Regulator 41 installs a washdown hose in the anchor locker so that you can rinse dirt and debris off the anchor rode and the anchor itself as you haul it in or it gets weighed by the windlass.
[7]Windlass
While a boat without a windlass can still possibly have a high-quality anchor locker, having one properly installed—as shown here—sure makes life easier when you’re on the water.
[8]Windlass Remote
Installing a windlass remote allows you to work the anchor from the bow if needed.
[9]Interior Light
Regulator installs a small LED in the anchor locker to help you see inside in low-light conditions.
[10]Through-Stem Anchor Roller
While many boats still employ a pulpit at the bow of the boat, a lot of high-end builders now fit the bow with a through-stem anchor roller that stows the hook in place at the bow externally. This equipment keeps the anchor and rode out of sight and allows for cleaner lines. This setup also prevents the anchor-rode line from chafing your gunwale topside at the bow.
[11]Full-Gelcoat Interior
The hatch on the Regulator is finished, gelcoated fiberglass on both sides, as is the anchor locker’s interior, a sure sign of high-quality construction.
Read Next: Remote Anchoring
What You Don’t See
Looking at a boat as well-built as the Regulator 41, you won’t find any rough, unfinished fiberglass when you lift the hatch. You also won’t find any exposed, sagging or sloppily run wiring in the anchor locker.
More: anchoring , boat building , Boats , January 2022 , What to Look For
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The anchor caddie is an awesome addition for our boat. It makes anchoring a breeze. Love the way it locks in place and allows us to travel rough water without the concern of the anchor banging around in the boat.
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13-06-2021, 10:10
Boat: none
chain out of my has me thinking.
The drain holes on my locker aren't right at the bottom of the locker (no am not interested in drilling more holes). So there is going to be pooling in it and that becomes a issue with any chain sitting in it. I feel it is worth the effort and to fill it in and am wondering the best combo of cost effectiveness and ease.
Whatever is used needs to be easy to lay in from the top and shape to fit. And it has to be something that wouldn't up the drain hole and still allow to drain.
Possible choice that come to mind:
- fill the low spot with some polyester etc.
- fill with sand/gravel to bottom of the drain holes and then pour resin on it.
- use spray foam to fill
BTW - we are talking a triangular space about 6" on side and 1-2" . It will be hard for me to go first into the locker and easy due to fat man hanging headfirst in deep locker syndrome.
13-06-2021, 10:16
Boat: Former owner of a Valiant V40
.
13-06-2021, 10:16
Boat: none
search for "waterproof void filler material" produced mostly spray foam results. So ..................... why shouldn't I use it?
now sit atop that to drain, and to stay as dry as possible
13-06-2021, 12:16
Boat: Cartwright 36 Cutter
13-06-2021, 12:30
Boat: J/42
grate, leftover from my grate . Small pieces available on eBay for not too much. It's strong and can be cut and shaped and epoxied (e.g. into 3D shapes) easily.
13-06-2021, 12:55
Boat: 2002 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 37
13-06-2021, 13:37
Boat: Volkscruiser
shaped . Then polyester resin on top until it almost reaches the drain hole, then the last half inch was white flo coat. We did it that because it was and the access was hard through a very small locker lid. Cheers
13-06-2021, 13:59
Boat: none
first into the locker. Cut them into and dropped them in and moved around with a mop handle. Not like they had to sit in there all pretty like. I may add more layers later as even though I put enough in so the chain is above the holes it isn't above the rust line left yesterday after getting the rusted chain ball out.
thanks
,
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Member Tips and Ideas
Replaced my anchor locker drain fitting due to leaks
Thread starter Thread starter drewkaree
Start date Start date May 15, 2021
Jetboaters Fleet Admiral 1*
May 15, 2021
Amazon.com : NRC&XRC Stainless Steel Barbed Short Straight Thru-Hull with Custom Gasket for 3/8" I.D (3/8") : Sports & Outdoors
@Yamaha ? How about some QC.
zipper said: @Yamaha ? How about some QC. Click to expand...
FSH 210 Sport
Jetboaters admiral.
drewkaree said: As you can see, the fitting extends considerably farther into the anchor locker than even the best OEM example you can find on the forums. I'm going to trim that, because that excess requires the anchor locker to be filled with more water before it would ever start to drain. It's not getting into the bilge anymore, but I want as little water to be left in there as I can get. To that end, I cut the excess off before I installed the fitting. If you have not done this before, maybe get a friend who can help you. If you want to undertake this next part, pay attention - put the fitting into the hole and tighten the nut down to where its final position will be. Mark the threads so you know where your minimum is that you cannot cut, as I did here: View attachment 150142 LEAVE THE NUT ON THE FITTING, DO NOT REMOVE IT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES! If you have the tools to deal with the threads, you likely don't need to be told this, but for all the rest who may not know this, when you cut the end off, you will have SERIOUS problems threading that nut back on until those threads get fixed. To get around that, you will use the nut to clean up those threads. Loosen and tighten that nut until it spins smoothly, and DO NOT REMOVE IT UNTIL IT SPINS FREELY! Use a brass brush or files or whatever you need to do to get those threads cleaned up so it will allow you to easily thread that nut on when you do your final installation. Use whatever tool you wish to trim off the excess, sawzall, hacksaw, Dremel, etc. Just don't take the dang nut off until you no longer feel it catching on the end that you just cut off. Now that that's done, put some sealant around the hole or on the flange of the fitting, tighten down the nut inside the anchor locker, and let it cure. I used 4200 (5200?), and since it would be noticeable, I took the following steps to ensure the cleanest end result. Tape over the fitting. Make sure it's taped well beyond the area that the flange will cover, like so: View attachment 150146 Take whatever cutting tool you wish to use, and trim the tape at the flange. My X-acto knife with the wife's fancy blade she unknowingly borrowed me worked out great for this. The curved end slid nicely along the edge and wasn't as "poke-y" as a regular blade. Still had issues with the tape, but that's an easy fix. Go at a low angle, like this: View attachment 150147 When finished cutting around, peel off the circle covering the fitting. You can see even a fresh blade can have issues View attachment 150148 View attachment 150149 Use the cutoff circle to fix any issues, try to make it as nice as possible. You're going to be using this to get a nice clean finish, so take some time to make it look as pretty as possible. View attachment 150150 Once you're done with that, put your sealant on, and either tape the fitting into place on the outside of the boat while you clamber on up in there to put the nut back on, or have a helper feed the fitting in and hold it in place for you until you tighten the nut. The opening should show you just exactly where you can put your sealant. Don't worry about putting on too much, that's what the tape is for. This is especially needed for 4200/5200, since that stuff is like baby poop, it gets everywhere no matter how hard you try to contain it! View attachment 150151 I wish I had pics of the final result, but I had to put the cover back on as it was starting to rain. When I can pull the cover off next weekend, everything should be cured, and I can show you the inside as well. If anyone wants some pics of the other stuff I may have glossed over, lemme know, and I'll try to fill in any blanks for you. Click to expand...
FSH 210 Sport said: Awesome post as usual @drewkaree ! I’ve been chasing some water in the bilge myself. Sometimes there is none, other times there is more, usually after I was the deck down with copious amounts of water using the 5 gallons bucket that came with the boat. I have sealed up the main deck drain as it would pee a little stream when the area around the deck drain was full. Next was the floor locker between the seats, I tightened the latching by adjusting the latch, but, again I had more water than I should have in the bilge at the end of the day, not too much, maybe a gallon. The anchor locker drain is next and you have provided a great write up for this fix. Click to expand...
FSH 210 Sport said: May I ask what fitting you purchased for this fix? Click to expand...
drewkaree said: It's sometimes hard to visualize how things are on others' boats - I'm wondering if the main deck drain you're referencing is the scupper, or some other FSH drain that's not on the runabout's. As for the floor locker, that sounds like the FSH equivalent of the ski locker. If that has the white 3-rib vinyl seal all around it, save your efforts on trying to tighten the hatch to it, it's a POS that has very little adhesion, in addition to very little sealing area, from what I've seen. I had another issue with the drain plug assembly inside the ski locker that I fixed as well, that required replacing the whole fitting. There was no sealant underneath the fitting whatsoever, and they boogered up the fitting when they screwed it in. I'm hoping it proves to be water-tight once I can get my boat on the water. This isn't the the exact fitting, but this is the manufacturer (Amarine), and the type of fitting - fully threaded thru-hull fitting. They no longer show the 3/8" fitting at this link, and this is where my Amazon order points to, so I know they USED to have it available. Amarine-made Straight Thru-Hull Valve Fitting Fully Threaded Stainless Steel 316 Boat Thru Hull for 1-1/2 Inch Interior Diameter Hose Thru Drain Boat Hose - - Amazon.com Amarine-made Straight Thru-Hull Valve Fitting Fully Threaded Stainless Steel 316 Boat Thru Hull for 1-1/2 Inch Interior Diameter Hose Thru Drain Boat Hose - - Amazon.com www.amazon.com Check the first post out again - I edited it to post a link to another 3/8" fitting, if that's what yours requires. I purchased a 1/2" fitting from that vendor for my cleanout tray drain, they make a quality product as well, I wouldn't anticipate any issues with the smaller fitting. Click to expand...
Yambers said: @FSH 210 Sport May I ask what fitting you purchased for this fix? Are you asking about the anchor locker part? I bought the below, which is also a 3/8. HURRY if this is what you want. Amazon shows 3 left. Amazon.com : keehui 316 Stainless Steel Combo Stainless Steel Thru-Hull Fitting w/Nut with Gasket for 3/8 I.D(3/8") : Sports & Outdoors Amazon.com : keehui 316 Stainless Steel Combo Stainless Steel Thru-Hull Fitting w/Nut with Gasket for 3/8 I.D(3/8") : Sports & Outdoors www.amazon.com Click to expand...
FSH 210 Sport said: So, a question just occurred to me… if water gets forced by the OEM fitting, does that mean that water is going into the anchor locker and then drains out? Click to expand...
drewkaree said: Your L-fitting is a much nicer-looking version of my deck drain leading to the scupper valve. I don't believe I'll ever find a metal replacement for it, but eventually I'll take a look at it to see if there's something I can do with a grinder and some sealant. If you're referring to the OEM anchor locker fitting, in my case, there was a significant gap that would allow water to simply dump into the bilge, and any water that made the Dukes Of Hazzard leap into the anchor locker would simply accumulate until there was enough in there to flow back out the hole...and into the gap, down into the bilge. The design makes SOME sense, in that anything that comes in should simply flow right back out, if everything is sealed and fits properly. Click to expand...
May 16, 2021
FSH 210 Sport said: Here’s a link to Marine east that has all kinds of fittings. MarineEast -- Products Click to expand...
Eriejetboater
Jet boat lover.
drewkaree said: Here's a shot I found of my anchor locker when I was initially investigating this, and the crap job they did. The actual gap isn't too bad, but is allowing the water to simply soak that area considered a win? I'ma go with a big fat no. The threads don't make a watertight seal for keeping water out of the bilge, and the part they cut too short isn't the same size as the rest of the hole. I'm glad I was finally able to address this, and I think this will help with my efforts to control the water entering my boat. View attachment 150216 Click to expand...
HangOutdoors
I put the SS drain in mine and removed the crap they had in there stock. Was thinking there may be even a better way, especially if you want to put a keel guard on higher up, like I have been contemplating doing. Anyhow my thought is to possibly drill a hole and let it drain just below the cup holders onto the deck up in the bow. Put a real nice thru hull fitting there. Since our boats are self bailing, and there really isn't much water ever coming from there, it would then travel into the ski locker channels then back and out the scupper. Then you could seal the front hole completely and Keel Guard over it, OR put a real nice small plug in it, OR glass over it. Alternatively you could use a hose and run it back through the boat and let it dump out on the deck or run the hose under the deck and let it dump out in either the Gas or Ski Locker Channel. I dunno, just thinking about stuff. Not sure it is worth the effort.
HangOutdoors said: I put the SS drain in mine and removed the crap they had in there stock. Was thinking there may be even a better way, especially if you want to put a keel guard on higher up, like I have been contemplating doing. Anyhow my thought is to possibly drill a hole and let it drain just below the cup holders onto the deck up in the bow. Put a real nice thru hull fitting there. Since our boats are self bailing, and there really isn't much water ever coming from there, it would then travel into the ski locker channels then back and out the scupper. Then you could seal the front hole completely and Keel Guard over it, OR put a real nice small plug in it, OR glass over it. Alternatively you could use a hose and run it back through the boat and let it dump out on the deck or run the hose under the deck and let it dump out in either the Gas or Ski Locker Channel. I dunno, just thinking about stuff. Not sure it is worth the effort. Click to expand...
Jetboaters Captain
drewkaree said: Do you have some mysterious leak in your boat and you can't figure out where it's coming from? Well, if you found this thread from a search, you're trying to track it down, and you've maybe even taken a look in there to see what people might be talking about, and if your boat is affected. My money is on EVERY one of the models that have an anchor locker drain having this issue with varying degrees, with the best situation being that the fitting juuuuuuuuuuust reaches inside the anchor locker. I've removed the piece inside my anchor locker that would support an anchor that fits the location. I don't use that type, so I removed it long ago, and noticed that there's an issue with the drain. A search around here shows the fix for many. I saw @Yambers fix, and he shared the info on where he got it from. I did one more thing before making a purchase, and you should too. Remove YOUR anchor locker drain fitting and measure what's already there. I have seen info posted that simply does not match up with what I have, but that's not that person's fault, that may have worked for them. They may have needed to modify theirs, so that WOULD be their fault, as they did not note any modifications, sanding, or drilling that they might have had to do. Don't take my word for it, or anyone else's word for it, check your own situation, or be prepared to suffer the consequences of more work or returning parts or even worse. My very own Amazon order directs me to the wrong fitting. Not sure if mine is the exact one that @Yambers used, but I bought an Amarine stainless steel fully threaded 3/8" thru-hull fitting. My Amazon order directs me to the correct type and manufacturer, but they do not show the size I used. At the very least, here's one that is identical to what I used: Amazon.com : NRC&XRC Stainless Steel Barbed Short Straight Thru-Hull with Custom Gasket for 3/8" I.D (3/8") : Sports & Outdoors Amazon.com : NRC&XRC Stainless Steel Barbed Short Straight Thru-Hull with Custom Gasket for 3/8" I.D (3/8") : Sports & Outdoors www.amazon.com The plastic thru-hull fitting on the outside of the boat was simply pressed in. The fitting looks to have been threaded, and they simply shoved it in, mangling the threads and using the threads as an aid to turn the fitting into a friction fit item - see the pic of the flange measurement to see what I'm talking about. They really boogered up that fitting, and you'll need to take into account that metal threads will require a bigger hole or a smaller fitting, and if you go plastic, you'll either need to find a gorilla to shove your longer fitting in there, or get a smaller fitting, or enlarge the hole somehow. There was absolutely no sealant anywhere on the fitting as well. Yours may be different. You may need a knife or blade to sever the sealant bond. You will need one anyway if you choose to follow my method, so you'll be prepared. I used some painter's tape, an x-acto knife with a fresh blade, and some 4200 or 5200, I can't recall which one I used, but either should be fine. Additionally, I took some steps to shorten the stainless thru-hull fitting I got to replace the crappy OEM fitting which would require some additional tools. That's up to you if you want to do it. Some have, some haven't, it's your boat, make your own decision. I shortened mine so it wouldn't get caught up on anything I put in there. I'm going to be following @Sotally Tober 's example and putting some fenders in there, since my Mantus anchor won't fit. If you're using an anchor that fits in the anchor locker, you might HAVE to shorten yours to get it to fit with the divider piece that goes in there. If you have the divider in your anchor locker, remove it. Now you're ready to go. Get some plastic automotive body panel removal tools from somewhere. You CAN just use a screwdriver or putty knife, but the risk of gouging my gelcoat was enough for me to use what I believe is the correct tool for the job. It SHOULD take some effort, but yours might not, YMMV. Once it's out, measure the thing like I stated above. Don't take my word for it, but if it's close enough, you may want to risk it and follow my lead. You've been warned. Here's mine - diameter of the tube that is SUPPOSED to go all the way into the anchor locker drain, and diameter of the OEM flange. My replacement is better in every way. I forgot to get a pic of the inside of the OEM fitting, but it's 1/2". The metal fitting I'm replacing it with is 3/8" ID, because remember, they smashed the plastic one in. I could get an exact replacement 1/2" fitting, but I'd have to do some sanding to enlarge both holes to accomodate the metal fitting. I want ZERO water getting in, but for now, I'll settle for LESS water, I went with 3/8" ID. View attachment 150125 View attachment 150126 Click to expand...
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The Rundown: An All Encompassing Look at the New NRS Slipstream Raft
Welcome to: “The Rundown”. In our newest editorial series, we’ll provide an all-encompassing look at the latest and greatest products from your favorite brands in the fly fishing and outdoor space. Here, we’ll run over high-level info, tech specs, and our opinions – all paired with a behind-the-scenes interview with product designers who have poured their hearts into bringing these creations from blueprints to the showroom floor.
In this Rundown, we’ll look at the newest release from Idaho-based fishing and whitewater vessel company, NRS , to bring you an all-encompassing look at their latest release: The “Slipstream” Fishing Raft .
Background:
If you’re floating down any river West of the Mississippi, on any given warm and sunny day, there’s a good chance you’ll be seeing an NRS raft making its way down current as well. These iconic watercrafts have been a staple to the angling community, as well as the white water community for decades now.
Based out of Moscow, Idaho; NRS or NorthWest River Supplies, has been manufacturing watercrafts and other river-sport necessities (such as apparel, Life jackets, technical gear, and much more), since 1972. In 2014, following NRS founder, Bill Parks’ retirement, the company became 100% employee-owned. This is a rarity in our modern, fast-paced economy, and is an approach that sets NRS apart from any other river-product manufacturer out there.
Over the course of the last few years, NRS has heard an increased amount of demand from the angling community for more fishing-focused products and has taken the feedback in stride. With the release of everything from fishing appare l and outerwear, to new fishing-conscious PFDs and Kyaks, NRS has been dumping time, money, and resources into meeting the needs of the rapidly expanding conventional, and fly fishing communities.
It’s a culmination of these efforts which have led to the birth of what we’re talking about today; the NRS Slipstream Fishing Raft . Or as we see it, A fishing raft like no other.
What’s New:
When it comes to the Slipstream Fishing Raft , there are a ton of new features that have been put in to accommodate angling needs. Below, we’ll highlight which ones we think are most notable, and why:
(From NRS ): “Slipstream rafts feature a streamlined design with deliberately placed d-rings, handles, and valves to reduce weight and eliminate catch points.”
One of the most annoying things that anglers experience when fishing out of a raft (or any boat/ vessel/ scenario), is line getting caught on things. Anyone who has ever fly-fished understands that fly-line was designed by the devil, and serves the sole purpose of getting wrapped around, tangled in, or caught up on anything that it can – including itself. With older raft models, things like casting platforms, protruding frames, and D-rings are the most common culprits when it comes to eating fly line. This is not only super frustrating to deal with when fishing, but can also severely damage your fly line. Which, we all know is pretty expensive.
The beauty of the Slipstream is that it was made with that issue in mind, and eliminated as many rings, valves, and other hazards for your line to get caught around. Most notably, the casting platforms.
“4” drop-stitch floor provides a super stable platform, eliminating the need for casting platforms. Insert is protected inside a zippered PVC pocket.”
Speaking of the loss of casting platforms, we believe the drop-stitch floor is the key element that sets this raft apart from the rest…
With this new design, gone are the days of dancing around/balancing on elevated plastic floors while trying to fish. The new, 4″ drop-stitch floor runs level from the front of the boat to the back, providing a single, sturdy floor for all anglers and the rower to share. This doesn’t only greatly improve the front and rear angler’s experience, but also provides a sturdy and flat floor for gear storage, such as coolers, fly boxes, dry boxes, and whatever else you want on your boat.
Additionally, the floor is lined with an EVA foam pad which provides great traction, even when wet. It also features an additional valve, located conveniently underneath the rower’s seat, which can be inflated or deflated independently from the rest of the raft, at any time.
“[Includes] Fishing Rod Holder to stow (2) 9′ rods”
One extra item that is provided in the Deluxe package, which we think is definitely worth mentioning, is the aluminum rod holder which can be attached to either side of the frame. We know from first-hand experience, the easiest place to break a rod, is in a crowded raft. In the chaos of fishing, or even just entering and exiting the raft, a slight misstep can result in $1000+ down the drain, or at least an inconvenient Saturday spent mailing your precious fly rod back to the manufacturer for repair. Neither option is very fun – but it’s something we’re all super familiar with.
This rod holder is made to line the outside of the frame, and conveniently stores your party’s fly rods in a way they’re easily accessible, and also out of harm’s way.
“The frame includes an internally routed anchor system that’s controlled from the rower’s seat…”
The last insanely cool feature we want to make sure to talk about is the new Slipstream Fishing Raft’s internal anchor system. With almost every other fishing raft, the anchor rope lines the side of the raft and is exposed. This can lead to the rear angler getting tangled with the anchor rope, things getting caught in it, and unnecessary weathering from exposure to the elements.
With the Slipstream fishing raft, however, the anchor rope runs from the sidebar beside the rower’s seat, through the actual raft frame, and out of the frame in the back to the anchor. This creates just one more element of streamlined engineering that keeps unnecessary obstacles out of the way of the raft’s users.
Tech Specs:
Here is the full tech spec sheet from the NRS website.
( Note: these are the specs for the Slipstream 139 Raft , which is the raft shown in the photos within this article. For other models, please reference the “specs” noted on the NRS Slipstream 120’s Page , or the NRS Slipstream 96’s Page . These specs are also for the “Deluxe package”, see website for more details).
Deluxe Package Contents:
Weight:
Series:
Slipstream
Length:
13′ 9″
Width:
6′ 7″
Tube Diameter:
20.5″
18″
Number of Thwarts:
0
26″
26″
Number of Air Chambers:
8
Valve Type:
Leafield – C7
Self Bailing:
Yes
Type of Material:
PVC
52/2000
52/2000
Bottom Wear Patch:
68/4000
Number of D-rings:
12
Number of Handles:
4
39″
Repair Kit:
Yes
Our experience:
In the Spring of 2021, we were privileged enough to receive one of the first prototypes of the NRS Slipstream Fishing Raft to test out on our home waters. Since then, this raft has been dragged over rocks, sent through white water, bounced off of trees, caught by hundreds of hooks, left out in the sun, rain, and snow – and has yet to give us a single reason not to love it.
It’s important when reviewing a product to point out the shortcomings as well as what we like, but we’ve had a lot of difficulty doing so. This raft is an amazing size for running medium to large rivers but is versatile enough to be used on small rivers, and even stillwater. With its streamlined construction and drop-stitch floor, our angling experience has been greatly enhanced, and we’ve spent so much more time fishing, and so much less time trying to untangle the line.
All this being said, we are even baffled by the price. You can buy the raft’s “Deluxe Package”, which features all the contents above, for all under $6k. In our opinion, that’s pretty unbelievable.
We don’t want to give away too much more, here. But, stay tuned for our Full Gear Review on the NRS Slipstream Fishing Raft which will be coming soon.
An interview with NRS Fishing Manager: Mike Dolmage
In our final portion of “The Rundown” we had a chance to ask NRS Fishing Manager, and someone who has been working on the slipstream since it was just words on paper: Mike Dolmage. Here’s what he had to say about his experience in the Slipstream’s design process:
Flylords: Who are you and what is your position at NRS ?
Mike: I’m the NRS Fishing Category Manager and Hardgoods Product Manager. I’ve been a passionate fly angler for over 30 years, living life in search of the next cast. Fall and winter seasons you’ll find me swinging Pacific Northwest waters for steelhead and in search the rest of the year for new adventures on the fly. When not on the water, I’m involved with the preservation and conservation of our waters and resources as anglers.
View this post on Instagram A post shared by Mike Dolmage (@inlandpnwonthefly)
Flylords: What was your role in bringing the NRS Slipstream Fishing Raft to life?
Mike: My role was creating the vision for a complete NRS Fishing raft package. I conducted extensive research to identify the key features that anglers and rowers demand on a fishing watercraft. We were focused on providing ultimate stealth fishing watercrafts for the adventure angler seeking remote fishing areas off the beaten path, and on keeping the angler focused on fishing without concerns of stability, line snags, or whitewater performance. Based upon the feedback we created conceptual CAD for the fishing raft package, and collaborated with our frame shop to make the Slipstream series of fishing rafts a reality. The Slipstream series of fishing rafts were successfully launched in 2022, and the Slipstream 120 won the 2022 IFTD Best Of Show Boat/Personal Watercraft. I’ve continued to travel all over North America and introduce the adventure possibilities of the Slipstreams.
Flylords: From start to finish, where did the Slipstream see the biggest challenges?
Mike: The biggest challenge of the Slipstreams has been navigating the supply chain hurdles that continue to impact manufacturers and factories since Covid. Keeping up with the demand has been an awesome and difficult task at the same time. We work tirelessly to keep Slipstreams rolling out to customers.
Flylords: What was the initial thought process behind the Slipstream? What role was it made to fit?
Mike: The initial thought process behind the Slipstreams was to utilize NRS’s 50-year whitewater river heritage, and provide watercrafts that allow anglers to explore waters they haven’t considered before. We keep the adventure angler at the core of our product inspiration empowering them to take any journey the imagination can think of. The Slipstreams were designed to handle any type of water, and lightweight enough to transport/launch without a trailer or boat ramp.
Flylords: What kind of angler would you say each Slipstream model is built for?
Mike: The Slipstream 139 – designed for big water multi-day adventures or single-day outings with maximum cargo space and room for two anglers and a rower.
Slipstream 120 – designed for ultimate water versatility on multi-day or single-day journeys that require whitewater or tight skinny stream stealth performance with a rower and up to two anglers.
Slipstream 96 – designed to pack the most performance and transportability into a watercraft for a rower and angler. The Slipstream 96 is lightweight and easy enough to transport rooftop or in the bed of a pickup.
Flylords: What are some of your personal favorite features of the Slipstream?
Mike: The internal anchor system running through the raft framework and out the center of the stern provides an anchor system without any exposed rope.
The drop-stitch floor with EVA texture provides a rock-solid lightweight platform for standing without the risk of slipping.
The Deluxe Slipstream packages offer a dual rod holder that allows the angler to keep extra rods rigged up for changing conditions on the water.
Flylords: How do you think the design of the slipstream will affect the way that NRS and other raft manufacturers will design their rafts moving forward?
Mike: The Slipstreams set the bar for future fishing watercrafts to be ultra-transportable but still capable of whitewater environments. We’ve transported Slipstreams for fishing adventures in anything from vehicles to helicopters and planes. The Slipstreams are an example of empowering anglers to reimagine a new horizon for adventures.
Thank you for checking out this installment of: “The Rundown”. Stay tuned for more activations surrounding the latest and greatest from your favorite Brands in the fly fishing space.
Thank you to NRS for working with us on this project, which has been years in the making. To learn more about the Slipstream Fishing Raft, you can find it HERE . Also, be sure to follow NRS on Instagram to keep up with the newest advancements from our friends in the Gem State.
This article was published as part of a paid campaign between Flylords LLC and Northwestern River Supply Co. All opinions presented in this article are genuine and solely reflect the opinions of Flylords LLC.
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Anchor Chain Piling up in Anchor Locker
Thread starter kenvail
Start date May 31, 2020
Hunter Owner Forums
The anchor chain on my Hunter 38 slides into the anchor locker at about 45 degrees for 8 inches or so, then drops down. The problem is that the chain piles up and after about 5 feet of incoming chain, the pile has reached the windlass and can cause it to jam. I have to keep knocking the pile down with a board I keep in the well for that purpose to avoid the jam. Has anyone else had this problem? Any tried and true solutions?
Captain Larry-DH
i encountered this on a charter boat a few years ago. I think its pretty common and it’s a design issue. Either keep knocking it down, or buy stainless chain (not recommended). Maybe some way to add a hawspipe that leads the chain to a deeper part of the locker?
Rich Stidger
I have the problem also. I just kick it down every 20 feet or so.
Same problem. I just keep a boat hook near the bow and use it to knock the chain away from the windlass.
quadrille38
Same boat same problem. i just keep pushing it down
Yep. Use a boat hook to push it down.
Kings Gambit
Captain Larry-DH said: ... or buy stainless chain (not recommended). Click to expand
Thanks to all of you. Obviously, this is a common problem which most just deal with. I'm thinking of building an extension of the first section (the 45 degree slope area) that would drop the chain into a deeper spot and allow a pile to build up and hopefully to fall over to allow for more piling. However, from what someone said, it may just "volcano" up in the middle and not really solve the problem. I think I'll run some tests to see how it behaves. If I have any success I will get back to this thread. Have a great week everyone!
Kings Gambit said: SS chain is smooth so there is much less “friction” than with other chains to allow the SS chain to pile up, i.e., “volcano.” SS chain slip-slides as it starts to pile up much so does not make high chain “volcanos.“ People seem to avoid it for two reasons. First, it’s expensive. If you are not going to have the chain down for extended periods where corrosion might become a concern, as in long-term cruising, for example, you don’t really need it. The second, less cogent, stated reason is that it is weaker than, say, BBB chain of the same size. That’s true according to tests, but the part that is left out is that it’s plenty strong to hold the yacht in place until the anchor pulls put. That is where your anchoring failure will most likely occur, assuming all tackle components are sized appropriately to each other. It should receive regular inspection, however. Another everyday benefit to SS chain is that it slides easily through the windlass veering out. Does not kink going out or coming in. You can open the windlass clutch to gravity drop the chain very fast, free fall actually, with no concern of kinking or fouling. Since I have 160 ft of 5/16” SS chain now for 16 yr of use, I know I‘d never wish to return to regular chain unless something yet occurs to convince me otherwise. Click to expand
I have same problem on my 2007 H-36 and added remote and I kneel with left hand lifting chain deeper into locker and with chain going into no chance hurt hand. Been doing this way 10 years .
same for me, knock it down with boat hook
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What Can You Learn from a Boat's Anchor Locker? Tons!
Yacht Refit: Anchor Chain Locker Design
Opened anchor locker on sailing boat open sea, wooden deck Stock Photo
Anchor Locker solutions
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Anchor Chain Locker
Byebye forever... anchor locker... may you rest in Sikaflex
COMMENTS
A Look At Anchor Lockers
1. When a boat is floating at rest, an anchor locker drain should be able to shed all water in the locker. Residual water evaporates, but it leaves the salt behind. The brine combines with the sulfur-laden bottom residue, creating a galvanic reaction and a puddle of rust. Even on this new boat, anchored only a few times,
Anchor Locker solutions
Mar 22, 2023. #1. C&C 44. My anchor windlass was put in as an afterthought - aft of the anchor locker. But that means the anchor chain comes across the locker hatch to the windlass, and if there is ever a snarl in the locker, it's extremely difficult to access. Well, the windlass is caput, so I'm looking to fix this system.
Anchor Lockers Part I
2. The Hunter 306 has a well-placed anchor rode tie-off; having the terminal on top of the well makes an emergency castoff much easier. 3. This Hunter's locker and windlass setup leaves the rode-handler totally dependent on the windlass's enclosed chain gypsy. This does not allow for a chain connection using a thimbled eye-splice and shackle.
building a anchor locker?
Designing an anchor locker with an opening top would need to make the hatch fairly watertight. You would not want a wave to come aboard, fill the locker and not have it drain out enough before the next wave hit. The weight of the water could blow the bulkhead door open and allow it to fill the boat.
Improve Your Anchor Chain Locker
The chain locker in the forward-most part of the bow of my Down East 45 schooner, Britannia, was totally inadequate for the 250 feet of 3⁄8-inch chain that I considered a minimum for my 22-ton boat. Every time we weighed anchor — even when only part of the rode had been laid — the chain always piled up in the locker and jammed the windlass.
Anchor Lockers II
Anchor Lockers II. 1. When a boat is floating at rest, an anchor locker drain should be able to shed all water in the locker. Residual water evaporates, but it leaves the salt behind. The brine combines with the sulfur-laden bottom residue, creating a galvanic reaction and a puddle of rust. Even on this new boat, anchored only a few times ...
Assessing the Build Quality of an Anchor Locker
The build quality of an anchor locker can tell you about the construction of a boat. Opening the anchor-locker hatch and taking a look inside gives you great insight into the quality of a boat's build. Courtesy Regulator Marine. It's hidden away under a hatch at the bow, but what's inside can say a lot about your boat.
Anchor locker
That, my friends, is a thing of beauty! I have wanted a anchor locker since before we ever sailed. I was really pulling for a Precision 18 when we started looking at boats because of the size and the anchor locker. We wound up with a little bigger boat with a pop top and I finally got my anchor locker.
Anchor Locker Drains
Location: Mechanicsburg, PA. Boat: Jeanneau 43 DS. Posts: 21. Anchor Locker Drains. Ok, the anchor chain locker is a lot cleaner now. The marks still on the floor and walls are rust from a wet anchor chain sitting in water. Notice on the bottom of the picture the drain holes on either side. They are about an inch up from the bottom of the locker.
Boat Anchor Locker
Designed for anchor deploying, retrieving and storage the Anchor Locker enables the vessel operator to handle all anchor functions by themselves. Built to last the lifetime of your boat, it can be bolted or permanently welded to the bow. Package Dimensions L x W x H 20"L x 9"W x 7"H Weight 9 PoundsMade in Portland, O
Storing anchor in the locker
Re: Storing anchor in the locker. Never leave the anchor loose on any trip. A loose anchor will quickly punch a hole in a glass hull and make a mess of others, restraining it puts crew at serious risk. Only takes a sudden squall. If not firmly lashed to the rollers should be in chocks somewhere.
Anchor Locker
I do know it doesn't have an anchor locker at the bow and didn't include an anchor if that helps. I'm also wondering about anchor locker options in lieu of an integrated one. I'm just trying to get more info to start getting this $200 boat back in tip-top shape.
Quality Products For Your Boat
Anchor system, Boat Accessories, Anchor Nest, Boating Equipment, Anchoring Equipment, Anchor Locker, Bow Roller, River Anchoring - by Anchor Caddie. Orders over $299 ship FREE in the Continental US. We are a small family owned business and the whole family is taking a short vacation. Although the website will still be accepting orders, we will ...
Filling Bottom of Anchor Locker
CLOD. Join Date: Jul 2007. Location: being planted in Jacksonville Fl. Boat: none. Posts: 20,620. Filling Bottom of Anchor Locker. My recent battle of removing a rusted ball of anchor chain out of my anchor locker has me thinking. The drain holes on my locker aren't right at the bottom of the locker (no am not interested in drilling more holes).
Anchor Locker liner ideas? Trying to protect the inside
Replaced my anchor locker drain fitting due to leaks
Current Add-Ons: SS Anchor Locker Fitting, ARK750 Trailer Jack, Rule High Water Alarm, Thrust Vectors, 3D Solid Steering Clevis Bushings, Fortress FX-7 Anchor, Stoltz RP-446 Modified Bow Roller, SiriusXM Receiver and Shakespeare Galaxy Antenna, JBS Trash Bag Hangers, Trailer LED Upgrade, Naked Feet Only Sundek, Extreme Max Sliding Beach Anchor ...
How secure anchor chain in locker?
Sep 30, 2008. 2,309. Catalina 310 Quincy, MA. Aug 15, 2014. #9. I installed an anchor stopper on the forward wall of the chain locker, where the chain hangs down from the anchor. In addition, we tie a heavy line through the stem head fitting, and the shackle of the anchor. All in all, very secure and easy to deploy.
ABOUT US
C&L Locker was established in the late 1960s and has been a Moscow, Idaho mainstay business ever since. Sam started working at C&L Locker in 1999, learning the butcher trade and shop management inside and out, eventually purchasing the business in 2010. Lauren started working at C&L in 2014. Sam and Lauren, along with a handful of employees are ...
C&L Locker
Welcome to C&L Locker. Retail Sales. A full compliment of beef, pork, and poultry. Available smoked, seasoned and prepared fresh. Stop in today! Learn More. Butcher Services. Have your beef, pork, lamb, or goat processed with us just the way you want it. Cut, wrapped and frozen to your specifications.
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H310
My H310 has two drains in the anchor locker - one is low down and one about a foot up. They are on opposite sides. When I first got the boat about five years ago, I had a lot of water coming in through the anchor locker every time it rained. The water was running over the stern lip of the locker and back through a gap where the caulking had ...
The Rundown: An All Encompassing Look at the New NRS Slipstream ...
"The frame includes an internally routed anchor system that's controlled from the rower's seat…" The last insanely cool feature we want to make sure to talk about is the new Slipstream Fishing Raft's internal anchor system. With almost every other fishing raft, the anchor rope lines the side of the raft and is exposed.
Anchor Chain Piling up in Anchor Locker
Hunter 38 Ocean Gate, NJ. May 31, 2020. #1. The anchor chain on my Hunter 38 slides into the anchor locker at about 45 degrees for 8 inches or so, then drops down. The problem is that the chain piles up and after about 5 feet of incoming chain, the pile has reached the windlass and can cause it to jam. I have to keep knocking the pile down with ...
IMAGES
VIDEO
COMMENTS
1. When a boat is floating at rest, an anchor locker drain should be able to shed all water in the locker. Residual water evaporates, but it leaves the salt behind. The brine combines with the sulfur-laden bottom residue, creating a galvanic reaction and a puddle of rust. Even on this new boat, anchored only a few times,
Mar 22, 2023. #1. C&C 44. My anchor windlass was put in as an afterthought - aft of the anchor locker. But that means the anchor chain comes across the locker hatch to the windlass, and if there is ever a snarl in the locker, it's extremely difficult to access. Well, the windlass is caput, so I'm looking to fix this system.
2. The Hunter 306 has a well-placed anchor rode tie-off; having the terminal on top of the well makes an emergency castoff much easier. 3. This Hunter's locker and windlass setup leaves the rode-handler totally dependent on the windlass's enclosed chain gypsy. This does not allow for a chain connection using a thimbled eye-splice and shackle.
Designing an anchor locker with an opening top would need to make the hatch fairly watertight. You would not want a wave to come aboard, fill the locker and not have it drain out enough before the next wave hit. The weight of the water could blow the bulkhead door open and allow it to fill the boat.
The chain locker in the forward-most part of the bow of my Down East 45 schooner, Britannia, was totally inadequate for the 250 feet of 3⁄8-inch chain that I considered a minimum for my 22-ton boat. Every time we weighed anchor — even when only part of the rode had been laid — the chain always piled up in the locker and jammed the windlass.
Anchor Lockers II. 1. When a boat is floating at rest, an anchor locker drain should be able to shed all water in the locker. Residual water evaporates, but it leaves the salt behind. The brine combines with the sulfur-laden bottom residue, creating a galvanic reaction and a puddle of rust. Even on this new boat, anchored only a few times ...
The build quality of an anchor locker can tell you about the construction of a boat. Opening the anchor-locker hatch and taking a look inside gives you great insight into the quality of a boat's build. Courtesy Regulator Marine. It's hidden away under a hatch at the bow, but what's inside can say a lot about your boat.
That, my friends, is a thing of beauty! I have wanted a anchor locker since before we ever sailed. I was really pulling for a Precision 18 when we started looking at boats because of the size and the anchor locker. We wound up with a little bigger boat with a pop top and I finally got my anchor locker.
Location: Mechanicsburg, PA. Boat: Jeanneau 43 DS. Posts: 21. Anchor Locker Drains. Ok, the anchor chain locker is a lot cleaner now. The marks still on the floor and walls are rust from a wet anchor chain sitting in water. Notice on the bottom of the picture the drain holes on either side. They are about an inch up from the bottom of the locker.
Designed for anchor deploying, retrieving and storage the Anchor Locker enables the vessel operator to handle all anchor functions by themselves. Built to last the lifetime of your boat, it can be bolted or permanently welded to the bow. Package Dimensions L x W x H 20"L x 9"W x 7"H Weight 9 PoundsMade in Portland, O
Re: Storing anchor in the locker. Never leave the anchor loose on any trip. A loose anchor will quickly punch a hole in a glass hull and make a mess of others, restraining it puts crew at serious risk. Only takes a sudden squall. If not firmly lashed to the rollers should be in chocks somewhere.
I do know it doesn't have an anchor locker at the bow and didn't include an anchor if that helps. I'm also wondering about anchor locker options in lieu of an integrated one. I'm just trying to get more info to start getting this $200 boat back in tip-top shape.
Anchor system, Boat Accessories, Anchor Nest, Boating Equipment, Anchoring Equipment, Anchor Locker, Bow Roller, River Anchoring - by Anchor Caddie. Orders over $299 ship FREE in the Continental US. We are a small family owned business and the whole family is taking a short vacation. Although the website will still be accepting orders, we will ...
CLOD. Join Date: Jul 2007. Location: being planted in Jacksonville Fl. Boat: none. Posts: 20,620. Filling Bottom of Anchor Locker. My recent battle of removing a rusted ball of anchor chain out of my anchor locker has me thinking. The drain holes on my locker aren't right at the bottom of the locker (no am not interested in drilling more holes).
Amazon.com : Dri-Dek Marine Surface - 1'x1' Interlocking Tiles - Boat Storage Compartment, Anchor Dry Locker Liner & Deck Flooring : Sports & Outdoors smile.amazon.com 2019 AR195 - Icon8 Tower Speakers, Dual Batteries, Mariner ProSport12, Monster Tower Surf/Wake Rack, CE Smith Lighted Trailer Guides, Stoltz Bow Roller, Wakebooster
Current Add-Ons: SS Anchor Locker Fitting, ARK750 Trailer Jack, Rule High Water Alarm, Thrust Vectors, 3D Solid Steering Clevis Bushings, Fortress FX-7 Anchor, Stoltz RP-446 Modified Bow Roller, SiriusXM Receiver and Shakespeare Galaxy Antenna, JBS Trash Bag Hangers, Trailer LED Upgrade, Naked Feet Only Sundek, Extreme Max Sliding Beach Anchor ...
Sep 30, 2008. 2,309. Catalina 310 Quincy, MA. Aug 15, 2014. #9. I installed an anchor stopper on the forward wall of the chain locker, where the chain hangs down from the anchor. In addition, we tie a heavy line through the stem head fitting, and the shackle of the anchor. All in all, very secure and easy to deploy.
C&L Locker was established in the late 1960s and has been a Moscow, Idaho mainstay business ever since. Sam started working at C&L Locker in 1999, learning the butcher trade and shop management inside and out, eventually purchasing the business in 2010. Lauren started working at C&L in 2014. Sam and Lauren, along with a handful of employees are ...
Welcome to C&L Locker. Retail Sales. A full compliment of beef, pork, and poultry. Available smoked, seasoned and prepared fresh. Stop in today! Learn More. Butcher Services. Have your beef, pork, lamb, or goat processed with us just the way you want it. Cut, wrapped and frozen to your specifications.
Got your message, thanks! Have a meaty day! SEND. 3025 Hwy 8 . Moscow, ID 83843
My H310 has two drains in the anchor locker - one is low down and one about a foot up. They are on opposite sides. When I first got the boat about five years ago, I had a lot of water coming in through the anchor locker every time it rained. The water was running over the stern lip of the locker and back through a gap where the caulking had ...
"The frame includes an internally routed anchor system that's controlled from the rower's seat…" The last insanely cool feature we want to make sure to talk about is the new Slipstream Fishing Raft's internal anchor system. With almost every other fishing raft, the anchor rope lines the side of the raft and is exposed.
Hunter 38 Ocean Gate, NJ. May 31, 2020. #1. The anchor chain on my Hunter 38 slides into the anchor locker at about 45 degrees for 8 inches or so, then drops down. The problem is that the chain piles up and after about 5 feet of incoming chain, the pile has reached the windlass and can cause it to jam. I have to keep knocking the pile down with ...