haul out sailboat cost

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Are these reasonable Haul out fees?

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Hi everyone, A couple buddies and I just bought an Ericson 27 and are about to haul it out for a survey. While it's out, we're going to put a new bottom coat on it. We plan on doing all the work ourselves because a) it's cheaper and b) good experience. It's our first boat, so I just wanted a quick opinion on what we were quoted (southern California area): $144 for the actual haul out $118 to pressure wash $3/ft/day for storage (~$75 a day, no free days) $50 for every gallon of paint we bring ourselves $54 for a hazardous waste fee The engine doesn't currently run, so we're pretty much stuck with the yard in our marina. Thanks in advance for any replies! --Andrew ps. I searched the forums and didn't find anything that directly answered this, but that might have been due to my own inabilities! apologies in advance if there are already a million posts asking this =X  

Not too out of line. I think most boatyards really make a killing on the power wash. I was surprised that most of them charge $3+ for pressure washing, usually about a half- hour's job.  

At the end of 2008 I paid $10.45/ft for a short haul plus 3.55/ft for the power washing. It was on the north shore of L.I. I felt like I was being robbed, then I found out the cost of winter storage. I would expect you to have to pay some type of fee for the paint. If you used their paint that fee is built in to them overcharging you for crap paint. The hazardous waste fee seems funny because you won't actually have any hazardous waste if they do a good job painting. You can offer to dispose of the empty paint cans, trays and brushes yourself. Their is probably a much cheaper way to dispose of that stuff and it would be funny to hear their response when you offered to do this. I wonder what they charge for a week or a month of storage on the hard during the summer. 4.37/ ft for power washing seems steep. I would shop around. I found a 100% difference in winter storage prices within a 15 mile radius so they aren't all the same even though they are all overpriced. Some yards will let you paint which will save you some money and give you the confidence that a proper prep and paint job has been done, but they are few and far between.  

Couple of questions. Why do you have to haul it for a survey. Why do you have to have a survey right now. Why not fix the engine first. Also the marina sounds like one that going to get you ten ways from sunday. I don't know if you asked or not but does the $144 cover the trip back in or is it $144 each way. I would call around and check the other yards and prices. I'm willing to bet you can find a better deal. That $50 for paint you bring is shady in the worst way and if your paying $3 per foot per day then you should be in the work space and that should include the waste disposal. I could see requiring a deposit to make sure you don't leave waste behind but requiring a flat fee sounds funky. Even if the engine isn't running you can tow the boat somewhere else, but unless you have a really compelling reason to haul before you fix the engine, I would pick that first.  

Thanks for the responses everyone, greatly appreciated. We need the survey to get the insurance which is required by marina (in the next couple of weeks.) I called and asked and the insurance does require a haul out for the survey. We figure since we're going to have to pony up for the haul out, we may as well get the bottom painted (it's been a few years). My buddy did the calling, and he didn't catch if the $144 was one way or both. I think I'm going to call tomorrow and see if they give me the same numbers. We're currently working on the engine (we think a water pump will do the trick), but i'm a little wary to fire it up without checking the propeller and all that first (haul out makes that pretty easy too.) I think the "master plan" is to get it out and do the bottom paint/blisters now and any through hull fittings that need replacing (crosses fingers for none). Spend the summer working on above water items. Then in the winter haul it out and do whatever is left (I'd imagine it would be a lot cheaper). We're still new to the whole boat thing, so if we're doing something stupid, feel free to let me know, I won't be insulted. That being said, we're pretty excited to get our hands dirty and get our girl back into tip top shape.  

If you are in New Jersey power washing is about to get VERY expensive. On September 19th I believe the new ZERO discharge rules go in to effect. Marinas will now be required to capture all water, NONE may go back into the waterway, and if a laundry list of hazardous chemicals are reduced below a certain level you'll be able to discharge ONLY into the sanitary sewer. I'm in the waste water business and I was working on this issue with the marina that my boat is in. The marina was sold and I spoke to the new owner about it. It is apparent that they haven't a clue. This is going to hit the industry like a bombshell. The reason I got involved is because the former owner was a member of the NJ marina association. Varoious companies were demonstrating different technologies to the group, and as of January NONE of them worked! We could do the job with the technology we use (embranes), but it would likely cost way too much to process such small quantities, yet the hauling costs for zero discharge are HUGE! Gary H. Lucas  

The fees quoted seem absurdly high, at least based in my experience hauling my 38 footer in a yard in the heart of Annnapolis. My last haul included a haul and block, powerwashing, 45 days out of the water, lifting the boat so the rudder could be removed and resetting the poppets, lifting the boat so the rudder could be re-installed and resetting the poppets, and the launch and suspension in the slings for a leak check on the new thru-hulls and with tax was still less than $1,000. Here is a link to the fee schedule at the yard I used... Eastport Yacht Center - Annapolis, MD - Marina Yard Fees for Your Boat or Yacht Jeff  

My last haul was in April 08 and the charge was $11.00 per foot. Included trip both ways, power wash, block and 5 days in the yard. I sanded and repainted the bottom with 2 coats. No other charges. I think they normally charge $15.00 per day yard fee for each day on the hard but because of my short stay they let me slide. I also docked at this marina. I think the fee for boats not docking at the marina is $15.00 per foot for haul wash and block and $15.00 per day in the yard.  

You are in Southern California. These are not unreasonable fees. You are right in doing the bottom while it is out, you won't have to touch it for a few years if you use a monthly dive service. Obviously the yard wants you to buy paint from them, so unless you have a killer deal on paint, go ahead and do that and avoid any extra fees. Just out of curiosity, is this at LB Shipyard? Have you tried Colonial?  

Have you called a couple other insurance companies. I don't know what coverage your going for but progressive covered me for liability on a 1967 fiberglass boat with no survey. This was for less then another company wanted and they required a survey. So it was an easy choice. I'd still try to get the engine going and the prop spinning before haul out.  

I'll try a couple different insurance companies then, maybe I just didn't call enough. It's for the yard in King Harbor. I figured that just like everything else, it's more expensive in socal. =) Thanks again for the advice! I'll let you know what ends up happening  

If you are doing a survey then you probably want at least a short haul (meaning they lift it out for the survey then put it right back). One of the most important parts of the survey is hull integrity. I guess if you already own the boat then its less important, but if you're paying for the survey then its worth doing. I would consider doing a short haul for the survey and then worrying about the bottom paint after you haul out for the winter. When I insured with progressive they asked if I had a survey done and I answered that I did, but I now wonder what they would have said if I had said I did not. They never asked me to send a copy of the survey. To answer your question, those fees sound outrageous to me. I'm at a marina with a reputation for nickel and dimeing people, but they would never do anything like what you were reporting. I'm in Rhode Island.  

Thanks again for all the replies everyone. After talking to some guys on the dock, it turns out the yard in our marina is really expensive. I wound up calling progressive and they can insure the boat without a survey, but it does cost more per month. The plus side is that once we get the survey done, we can cancel that plan (we'll get a refund for the unused portion) and get a much cheaper plan with the survey. So the now the plan is get the engine working and take it down to wilmington/san pedro towards the end of the season and have it hauled out there where it's much cheaper.  

The $75/day would make me run. If there are ANY blisters and you have to wait for the hull to dry, they will own the boat! $50 to bring paint? A fee for haz waste you won't generate? (DIYs are exempt by fed law, you'll save the old paint, and the brushes aren't haz after they dry. Copper is not on the haz list). At $200+ per gallon, you won't waste much. The Inorganics or Metals Arsenic, Barium, Cadmium, Chromium, Lead, Mercury, Selenium, Silver Get another marina. They're working you.  

there is a yard near me right now offer 8.50 a foot for haul, power wash, blocking, 7 days on the stands and the relaunch. so for my 27 footer it would be 230 or so for a week on the hard all inclusive  

scottyt said: there is a yard near me right now offer 8.50 a foot for haul, power wash, blocking, 7 days on the stands and the relaunch. so for my 27 footer it would be 230 or so for a week on the hard all inclusive Click to expand...

I just paid $10 a foot for the haul out and block at a DIY yard on the Cheaspeake. Great folks! It's located at Kent Narrows and the yard is Harrisons. 410-827-7800  

Dangerdrew, I don't know if you have come to a decision on insurance yet. When we got our boat 39' the best rate we could find was thru Nationwide's affiliate for yachts, Allied. They beat everyone else by hundreds, they never asked for my survey. Might be worth checking out. michael  

Haul/Launch in Florida I just completed painting my bottom at Green Cove Springs Marina (they do not have a website, but Google has their info). I paid $315 for a Hunter 37 to haul/launch, pressure clean, block, move stands, and 5 nights liveaboard in the yard. They have no charge for using outside supplies, and will in fact sell you supplies well below retail. This was my first haul and bottom job and everyone there was friendly and helpful. I traveled a full day each way to use this yard, other people travel much farther. I can attach a rate sheet if people are interested, or contact them directly.  

I live in orange county there is a rainbow wast transfer station , they take hazardous waste for free at the yard (paint, tv, etc...)  

And I thought I was upset when the yard here raised their rate to 55cents/ft/day. 30' boat in and out+wash down, blocking, environmental fee, tarp and tax comes to about $280+$17/day and you can work on your own boat.....no wonder we get boats up from California (and down from Alaska) to haul out. the 330ton lift is more expensive though. I might have to truck my boat down to Calif and am looking for the least expensive haul out to put it in the water.  

Wolfenzee, you might get a better response starting a new thread with the question, preferably with the locale in the title. I think most readers won't read through a 3 year old thread on this topic.  

Actually I found out there are some "back water" haul outs down where the boat was built, San Louis Obisbo and that .  

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Boat Haul Out

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For many, an annual haulout is the end of the boating season. Plan it all out first so it doesn't make you crazy.

Spring and fall are the busiest seasons for hauling. Make sure to plan ahead with your marina to ensure they can fit you into their schedule.

Many boats will have to be hauled by a boatyard or marina at some point. You might think that all you have to do is show up with your boat to be plucked from the water and deposited safely in the yard, but not so fast. Forward planning ensures things go smoothly for you, your boat, and the yard.

Make Arrangements

If your marina has a travel hoist, hauling at your home port is often the most straightforward option: Your boat will already be at the haulout location, and the yard staff may be familiar with it. If it's not possible to haul at your marina, there are specific logistical considerations, not least that you will have to move your boat and deliver it to the yard at the appointed time.

Once you've decided where your boat will be hauled, you need to decide when. Give the yard as much notice as possible: Don't wait until the day before and expect them to be able to accommodate you. Keep in mind that the yard's busy season is during late fall when boats are pulled for winter storage and then again in the spring when boats are relaunched. Schedule accordingly. Jay Leszynski, owner of Merri-Mar Yacht Basin in Newburyport, Massachusetts agrees, "Spring and fall are our busiest times by far. Not only do we have a lot of boats to move, but we have to plan where to put them once they come ashore. Letting us know your plans early helps us a lot".

Cost And Scope

Check with the yard on how much you will be charged for haulout service. Most yards charge by the foot and will often have a minimum fee. In many cases, the cost also includes a relaunch, but you need to be sure. Some yards have haulout contracts. If yours does, read it carefully to know what is — or is not — included. If your yard doesn't have a contract, ask questions and take notes so you are clear about the arrangements.

If you expect your boat to be out for a fairly short time for some maintenance, such as a bottom job, anode change, thru-hull or transducer installation, tell the yard this. If your boat is buried at the back of the lot with other boats parked in front, you may not be able to launch when you want. If you are storing ashore for the winter months, let the yard know when you would like to be launched in the spring, as this will have some bearing on where they place your boat.

Pressure washing the boat is often included in the cost of the haulout.

If you want the yard to do some work on your boat while it's out of the water, talk to them about it up front. If you forget to tell them, it may delay things if they don't have you on the schedule or they don't have the necessary parts in stock.

If you plan to do some or all of the work yourself, talk to the yard about this, too. They may have policies about what you can and can't do yourself. Many marinas prohibit owners from working on their boats, citing insurance or environmental reasons, which is sometimes merely a way of getting more work for their crew. Flexible marinas may allow you to do your own work provided you comply with all rules, such as no hull sanding without a vacuum and laying ground cover under the boat to catch hazards like spilled bottom paint.

Lifting Your Baby

On the actual day of the haul, plan to be there if you can. You'll be able to take a look at just how fouled the bottom is before it's pressure washed and you'll get an idea of how your antifouling paint is working. Most yards do this immediately after the boat is hauled so the fouling doesn't set like concrete. "We always pressure wash a boat as soon as it comes out of the water," Leszynski says. "We have a waste-recovery system, and this ensures any bottom paint, dirt, or other contaminants are contained. Pressure washing is included in the fee for hauling, and we won't move a boat into the yard until it has been washed."

It's normal for the owner to drive the boat into the travel hoist pit unless you have made alternative arrangements. Have plenty of fenders on both sides of the boat to protect the topsides should you be blown sideways. Listen carefully to instructions given to you by the yard staff operating the hoist who will have done this maneuver many times before. You probably won't need docklines because the boat will be going right into the slings, but check with the lift operator. Larger sailboats may have to back in to the pit and even have the backstay removed so the rigging will clear the hoist. The staff won't lift a boat with you or the crew aboard so they'll tell you when to get off and anything else they need you to do before vacating the boat. Don't forget to shut off the engines, air conditioners and other equipment before the boat is hoisted.

When the boat is out of the water, check and replace anodes if they are more than 50 percent wasted.

All tanks should be as empty as possible, and while it may not be practical to drain fuel tanks, it is relatively easy to drain water and waste tanks. Full tanks add significant weight to the boat, and empty tanks will put less strain on the boat's structure when it is sitting in an unnatural element on land.

Before the boat is hauled out of the water, tell the travel hoist operator about any underwater appendages, such as fin stabilizers or pod drives, transducers, speed wheels and other things not easily seen when the boat is in the water that could be damaged by the travel hoist slings. "We are familiar with most boat designs", says Leszynski, "but it is helpful if owners mention things that may be special about their particular boat".

Larger yachts often have what's known as a "graving plan," which is a layout of where blocking and other supports go when the ship is drydocked. Although you probably don't need to go to these lengths, a photo or two of the boat in the slings that you can share with the hoist operator is often appreciated, especially if the boat is rare or an unfamiliar type. A profile shot is the most useful. This is especially true with sailboats, as it will show the keel configuration, the position of any skegs and rudders, and where the shafts exit the boat.

Slings can scratch gelcoat, paint, and varnish. To avoid damage, ensure the yard has and uses soft muffs or plastic sleeves over the webbing on the straps. Once the slings have been correctly positioned, adding those little "sling here" marker labels, available from chandlers, is a great idea and will save time at subsequent haulouts.

On The Hard

If your boat is being lifted for anything more than an hour or so, often called a "short haul," it is likely that it will be placed on blocks in the yard and supported with jackstands. If this is the case, tell the yard about any relevant structural features of your boat. Some downeast powerboats, for example, have hollow keels aft, which could potentially suffer damage if the boat is improperly blocked and supported. In cases like this, blocks should probably run lengthwise rather than athwartships to provide adequate support.

If you plan on doing any work on your boat, you'll most likely need access to power and water. Make sure that you have any necessary extension cords or adaptors as it is often up to you to provide these, not the yard.

As a general rule, the workers in the yard have much experience moving and blocking boats, so it's best to leave it up to them as to how they do it. By all means watch, but don't interfere unless you see something that is wrong or unsafe; if you see a problem, bring it up with the yard manager.

Once the boat is settled into her spot, inspect the jackstands. Ensure they have chains between them to prevent them from spreading, which could cause the boat to fall over. Be sure that the attachment points of the chain to the jackstands are secure. Sometimes the slits in the metal of the frame into which the chain links sit are torn or bent from use, which could result in slipping or failure. If a stand is severely rusted, ask to have it replaced.

Also check the ground beneath the jackstands. If the stands are resting on, for example, sandy or loose soil, and especially if there's a slope, this may present a problem in heavy rains. The majority of jackstands will have three or four legs and unless they are on a solid surface, they should have sturdy plywood pads or other good support placed underneath to distribute the weight over a larger surface area, preventing them from sinking into the ground. If you see any problems, discuss them with management as soon as possible

Sometimes when you are working on your boat, such as when applying antifouling, you may need a jackstand moved. An alternative to moving stands, which will often incur an additional fee, is to have some antifouling paint and brush in hand when the boat is lifted for relaunching and apply some paint to those areas covered by the pads prior to the boat being launched. If you can't be there to touch up the bare spots, often the yard workers will do it for you if you leave the paint and a brush. For your safety, and for that of your boat, do not attempt to adjust or move stands yourself; ask the yard to do it.

While You're At It

Irrespective of what other work you may have to do when the boat's out of the water, now's the time to check the anodes and replace them if they are more than 50 percent wasted. Also use this opportunity to inspect propellers, rudders, transducers, and seacocks. If anything seems amiss and it was not on your original to-do list, attend to it now.

Don't rely on the yard having a ladder. Bring your own, and either take it with you or lock it up when you leave at night.

Launch Time

Once the boat is put back in the water, check the bilges carefully for leaks. Hoses that have been disconnected from thru-hulls have sunk more than one boat. If your boat has a drain plug that was removed when the boat was hauled, make sure that the yard staff know where this is or there may be a delay in getting your boat back into the water. Sometimes, because of shifting hull stresses while the boat isn't supported by the water, shaft alignment may be affected by a haulout, at least temporarily. Be sensitive to this possibility when you run the boat after coming from the hoist.

Pay your bill before launch time, or you may find that your boat can't go back in when you think. Most yards have a saying: "No cash, no splash."

8 Essential Questions To Ask Your Yard

What's the cost of hauling and relaunching? Some yards quote just the haulout price and some include the relaunch in their price. Usually haulouts are charged based on length of boat, but not always, so ask.

Can I work on my boat myself? Not all yards allow you to work on your own boat, often citing insurance concerns. Check on what's allowed if you plan on doing any work yourself.

Are there any "lay days" included? If your boat will only be out for a few days, there may not be any storage charges, but some marinas charge by the day, week, or month as soon as the boat is blocked in the yard.

Is there a fee to bring my boat to the haulout well, and how much is it? If you need the yard to move your boat because you're not able to, there'll most likely be an additional charge. If you're a long-time customer, though, you may be able to get it waived. Bimini or backstay removal may come with an extra fee.

Does the cost include a high-pressure washdown? Most marinas provide this service as part of a haulout, but ask, don't assume.

Where will you put my boat? After hauling, your boat will be blocked ashore. In a large marina, that could mean a long hike from the office or chandlery, and worse, possibly too far from electrical power or water, which you might need.

Can I bring in outside contractors? Marinas want you to use their services and may charge you a fee or even a percentage of your outside contractor bill. Most will require the contractor prove he's properly insured. Some prohibit outside contractors altogether, citing liability, though there is little risk to the marina if you and your contractor have the proper insurance.

When will my boat be relaunched? If you hope to use your boat the next weekend, you could be disappointed if the yard tells you it could be several extra days. Let your yard know in good time when you'd like to go back in the water, but be aware that sometimes tides and weather may preclude you from getting your ideal time and date.

— Charles Fort

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Everything to Remember when Hauling Out a Boat

Annual Maintenance Routine and Antifouling Bottom Job

Shortsighted boat owners who lengthen the time between haul outs cost money in the long run. Conventional wisdom says it pays to haulout annually for hull painting and maintenance, but some folks stretch that period to 18 months or even two years. The pros know better and keep their bottoms as clean as their topsides.

Once a Year

“I recommend hauling out every year to catch the bottom before the growth starts to build,” said Joe Zammataro, service manager at V&G Yachtworks in Dania Beach. “Because once the growth starts to build, that’s when you get water penetration and lose performance and fuel efficiency.”

Overall, the haulout service for a 50-foot vessel focuses on three main categories: running gear, through-hull fittings and bottom paint. Each category is important, and within each are sub-categories that may or may not pertain to a vessel, depending on the hull material, age and known performance and mechanical problems.

Running Gear

“Some boaters pay very little attention to their running gear,” said Michael Carey of Florida Marine in Riviera Beach. “If it’s not aligned and working properly they are just throwing money away in regard to efficiency and wear and tear.”

Most captains have picked up clues during the boat’s operation that there could be a running gear malfunction, indicated by prop vibration or poor engine performance. Once the boat is hauled out and blocked, the service team works on the running gear problems first, because parts may need to be ordered.

“The props can be sent outside the yard for dynamic balancing, and back in time for re-launching,” said Michael Bach, service and sales manager for Rybovich Spencer in West Palm Beach. “The performance records on board and other fixed datum give the propeller shops the required information to tune the props. The boat’s records also help determine whether more work needs to be done, such as drawing the shafts out of the boat. You will only do that when needed.”

Running gear and outdrives will be cleaned of fouling, and can be painted with special paint systems. Zinc anodes are usually replaced even though some of the old anode is still there. Strut bearings will be inspected to check for excess clearance, and strut bolts are checked for tightness, corrosion or leakage. Engine mounts are checked if vibration has occurred.

“A good tip is to do a thorough sea trial prior to hauling the vessel,” said Paul Engle, president and general manager of Bradford Marine in Fort Lauderdale. “That way problems can be pinpointed a lot faster.”

Through-Hull Fittings

A physical inspection of all the through-hull fittings is done. Metal through-hulls last longer and are more damage resistant, but they will also corrode, and the evidence of corrosion is a green or white residue. Plastic through-hulls are non-corrosive but will degrade after long-term exposure to ultra-violet light.

Inlets for the engines and generators, and drains for the bilge and other outlets, are fitted with seacocks. Seacocks allow the through-hull to be closed off, and the position of a lever-type handle tells you instantly if it is open or closed.

The service team will inspect the through-hulls and seacocks, remove marine growth and inspect for corrosion and degradation. Prevention is key to ensuring seacocks work properly, and its recommended that the seacock handle should be moved through its fully closed and fully opened path once a month.

Bottom Painting

The last step in the process is prepping the hull and applying the bottom paint. The purpose of bottom painting is to prevent the growth of barnacles and other evidences of fouling on the bottom of the boat. Almost all recreational boaters use an ablative paint that wears off over time. Conventional, or hard paint is used in high-performance applications, where keeping drag to a minimum is crucial.

For well-maintained boats, the bottom-painting procedure is similar for fiberglass-, aluminum- and steel-hulled boats. The bottom is mechanically sanded and profile work is done, and then the ablative paint is applied. However, a fiberglass boat that hasn’t been hauled in a few years would probably have blister problems. Steel boats that have been in the water a long time would likely be suffering from corrosion, as would aluminum boats. Boats with these problems need more preparation work, and costs increase with the additional time and labor.

Some boaters scrub their own hull bottom monthly or quarterly, or hire someone to do it. This can extend the time between haulouts for bottom paintwork, but obviously does not address running gear or through-hull maintenance. Also be aware that when you clean the bottom, you also clean off the paint that protects the bottom.

The proper sanding and removal of old paint and the prep of the bottom is crucial to getting a long-lasting paint job. Ablative paint polymers wash away slowly over time with water movement, and the fouling organisms are scrubbed away with it.

Paint is normally applied by a roller, although some yards apply paint with a sprayer. A sprayer is often used on larger boats. One coat of paint is normally sufficient for boats that will be hauled annually. “Unless the customer is going to be gone on a long trip for two or three years, we feel that one coat will last a year,” Engle said. “Otherwise it gets expensive for the customer.

Service Timeline

On a 50-foot fiberglass sportfishing boat with a good maintenance record, a haulout, service and re-launch can be completed in four to five days. The caveat to that time frame concerns what the service team finds once the boat is out of the water. In general, though, here’s how a haulout usually proceeds:

1) Haul boat out, pressure wash immediately before the hull dries

2) Block the boat and stage for out-of-water work

3) Inspect and confirm the work list and original estimate

4) Negotiate and finalize add-on work found during out-of-water inspection

5) Begin work on clearances, running gear, propellers

6) Inspect and repair through-hull fittings

7) Remove and replace zinc anodes

8) Prep the hull and apply bottom paint

9) After paint is properly cured, re-launch boat

Research the fees associated with hauling out. Call around your local area to shop rates and pick an operation that has a proven track record. Other fees that may be added on include insurance on the job and an EPA charge to dispose of hazardous waste. EPA charges run about 2.5 percent of the bottom job quote.

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What is the average cost to haul out a 50-foot full keel sailboat?

Hauling out a 50-foot full keel sailboat can be a challenging and expensive process, especially for first-time boat owners who are not familiar with the costs involved. In this article, we’ll discuss the average cost to haul out a 50-foot full keel sailboat, as well as factors that can influence the overall expense.

Hauling out involves removing a boat from the water and placing it on a trailer or cradle so that it can be stored or worked on. The cost of hauling out a boat depends on several factors, such as the size and weight of the vessel, the location of the marina, and the type of services needed.

On average, the cost to haul out a 50-foot full keel sailboat can range from $800 to $3,500, depending on the location and the specific marina or boatyard. The cost may also vary based on the type of haul-out equipment used, such as a travel lift or a crane.

In addition to the haul-out fee, there may be additional charges for services such as pressure washing the hull, performing maintenance or repairs, or storing the boat while it is out of the water. For example, some boatyards charge a daily rate for storage, while others may require a longer commitment, such as a monthly or seasonal contract.

It’s important to do your research and compare prices between different marinas and boatyards before choosing a facility for your haul-out. Some marinas may offer discounts for repeat customers or for scheduling the haul-out during a less busy season.

To ensure that you are prepared for the costs of hauling out your 50-foot full keel sailboat, it’s important to budget for the haul-out and any additional services that may be needed. Remember that the cost of the haul-out is just one part of the overall cost of owning and maintaining a boat, so it’s always a good idea to factor in other expenses such as insurance, storage, and routine maintenance.

The average cost to haul out a 50-foot full keel sailboat can range from $800 to $3,500, depending on various factors such as location and the specific services needed. Be sure to research and compare prices before selecting a marina or boatyard for your haul-out, and budget for additional expenses as necessary to ensure that your vessel is properly maintained and cared for.

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2020 Washington Haul-Out Guide

Before we know it, the accumulation of untreated crud we can’t see creates even greater problems for us (and higher bills) if left untreated. That is why haulouts are important and winter is the perfect time of year to get it done.

We are a lucky bunch in the Pacific Northwest as our region has many boatyards that haul out vessels. Please find in this guide a sampling of haul-out services. It’s always a good idea to call ahead to discuss your specific needs (and don’t worry, they have heard it all!) The important thing is that you make the call and regularly address the maintenance needs of your boat. And when that’s done, you can scout out an air duct cleaning service! Good luck!

Services Guide

Not every boat yard or marina offers every service, but some of the basics are represented at a glance in each entry below.

This year’s guide is organized by region, so click on your destination or read on! South Sound Central Sound North Sound

South Sound

Csr marine south.

N 47°24’ 01.012” | W 122°19’ 42.358”

22501 Dock Ave., Des Moines, WA 98198 www.csrmarine.com 206-878-4414 [email protected]

Haul-out by travel lift for vessels up to 50’ length overall and up to 25 tons.

Gig Harbor Marina & Boatyard

N 47°19’ 48.554” | W 122°34’ 49.36”

3117 Harborview Dr, Gig Harbor, WA 98335 www.gigharbormarina.com 253-858-3535

Haul-outs with 50-ton capacity lift, available for vessels from 15’ to 60’ length overall. This location monitors VHF channel 69.

Hylebos Marina

N 47°16’ 15.913” | W 122°22’ 26.095”

1940 Marine View Dr., Tacoma, WA 98422 www.hylebosmarina.com 253-272-6623

A 35-ton travel lift for boats up to 45’ long, 14.5’ wide and an 80-ton travel lift for boats up to 75’ length overall, 18.5‘ wide.

Modutech Marine

N 47°16’ 25.609” | W 122°22’ 43.336”

2218 Marine View Dr., Tacoma WA, 98422 www.modutechmarine.com 253-272-9319

Three boat lifts are available for haul-outs, including the new 85-ton capacity lift. Vessels can also be hauled out on the railway.

Suldan’s Boat Works

N 47°31’ 51.167” | W 122°40’ 17.815”

1343 SW Bay St., Port Orchard, WA 98366 www.suldansboatworks.com 360-876-4435 [email protected]

Haul-out by marine railway for boats up to 55’ length overall and/or 35 tons. Marine store and moorage available at this location.

Swantown Boatworks

N 47°3’ 21.44” | W 122°53’ 54.703”

650 Marine Drive NE, Olympia, WA 98501 www.portolympia.com 360-528-8059 [email protected]

Haul-out options include an 82-ton travel lift for vessels from 17’ to 80’ in length and up to 21’ wide and a jib crane with a 10,000-pound capacity. Forklift and crane services are also available on site. This location monitors VHF channel 65A.

Yachtfish Marine Northwest

N 47°32’ 14.546” | W 122°38’ 52.152”

53 SW Bay St., Port Orchard, WA 98366 www.yachtfishmarine.com 360-876-9016 [email protected]

A 30-ton capacity travel lift that accommodates vessels up to 50’ length overall is available.

Zittel’s Marina

N 47°9’ 53.459” | W 122°48’ 35.038”

9144 Gallea St. NE, Olympia, WA 98516 www.zittelsmarina.com 360-459-1950 [email protected]

Offers hydraulic trailer haul-outs for vessels up to 42’ and a conolift sling lift for boats up to 50,000 pounds and 52’ in length. Complete bottom painting services. Dry storage is also available.

Central Sound, Seattle, & Lake Washington

Canal boatyard.

N 47°39’ 35.896” | W 122°22’ 13.402”

4300 11th Ave. NW, Seattle, WA 98107 www.canalboatyard.com 206-784-8408 [email protected]

A 55-ton travel lift, boom truck, and forklift are available for haul-outs.

N 47°39’ 45.228” | W 122°22’ 48.006”

4701 Shilshole Ave. NW, Seattle, WA 98107 www.csrmarine.com 206-632-2001 [email protected]

Two 70-ton capacity travel lifts are available for vessels up to 75’ length overall.

Delta Marine Industries

N 47°31’ 05.508” | W 122°18’ 42.48”

1608 S 96th St., Seattle, WA 98108 www.deltamarine.com 206-763-2383 [email protected]

Haul-out by a travel lift capable of lifting 440 tons for vessels up to 170’ length overall.

Dagmar’s Marina

N 48°0’ 53.31” | W 122°10’ 38.382”

1871 Ross Ave., Everett, WA 98201 www.dagmarsmarina.com 425-259-6124 [email protected]

Forklift for boats up to 12 tons with a maximum length overall of 38’. Does not haul out sailboats or catamarans. This location monitors VHF channel 77.

LeClercq Marine

N 47°39’ 20.588” | W 122°22’ 11.328”

1080 W Ewing St., Seattle, WA 98119 www.leclercqmarine.com 206-283-8555 [email protected]

Haul-out options include a 35-ton capacity travel lift and 150-ton capacity crane for vessels up to 100’ length overall.

Northlake Shipyard

N 47°38’ 49.117” | W 122°20’ 20.97”

1441 N Northlake Way, Seattle, WA 98103 www.northlakeshipyard.com 206-632-1441 [email protected]

Two dry docks available, accommodating vessels up to 1,900 tons and 1,000 tons.

North Lake Marina

N 47°38’54.383 | W 122°20’45.823”

6201 NE 175th St., Kenmore, WA 98028 www.northlakemarina.com 425-482-9465 [email protected]

Haul-out for boats with a max beam of 13’. On-site fiberglass repair and refinishing.

Pacific Fishermen Shipyard & Electric

N 47°40’ 4.163” | W 122°23’ 16.407”

5351 24th Ave. NW, Seattle, WA 98107 www.pacificfishermen.com 206-784-2562 [email protected]

Options include a 100-foot by 200-ton marine railway, 160-foot by 600-ton marine railway, and the original Rowe 140-foot by 600-ton screw lift dock with 140’ of covered end track rails.

Port of Edmonds

N 47°48’ 30.664” | W 122°23’ 22.442”

336 Admiral Way, Edmonds, WA 98020 www.portofedmonds.org 425-775-4588 [email protected]

Haul-outs available with a 50-ton capacity travel lift, accommodating vessels up to 58’ length overall and with 15.5’ of beam. This location monitors VHF channel 69.

Port of Everett

N 48°0’ 02.58” | W 122°13’ 2.287”

1205 Craftsman Way #105, Everett, WA 98201 www.portofeverett.com 425-388-0678 [email protected]

A 75-ton capacity travel lift available for haul-outs. Plenty of marine businesses nearby, including boat sales and storage, canvas and upholstery, engine repairs and parts, marine supplies, and woodwork. This location monitors VHF channel 16.

Seattle Boat Company

N 47°39’ 15.285” | W 122°19’ 16.739”

659 NE Northlake Way, Seattle, WA 98105 www.seattleboat.com 206-633-2628 [email protected]

Haul-out by 14-ton capacity forklift for vessels with a maximum beam of 11’ and length overall of 36’ (yard capabilities determined on a case by case basis after measurement specifications are provided). Seattle Boat Co. does not provide haulouts to sailboats.

Seaview Boatyard (Seaview West)

N 47°40’ 37.237” | W 122°24’ 24.716”

6701 Seaview Ave. NW, Seattle, WA 98117 www.seaviewboatyard.com 206-783-6550 [email protected]

55-ton and 80-ton lifts for vessels up to 71’ length overall are offered here.

South Park Marina

N 47°31’ 36.732” | W 122°18’ 44.307”

8604 Dallas Ave. S, Seattle, WA 98108 www.southparkmarina.com 206-763-2383 [email protected]

Haul-out by adjustable trailer for vessels up to 45’ length overall, 30-ton max.

Waypoint Marine Group

N 47°40’ 0.44” | W 122°23’ 40.79”

5350 30th Ave. NW Suite C, Seattle, WA 98107 www.waypointmarinegroup.com 206-284-0200 [email protected]

Haul-out services by a marine lift that accommodates vessels up to 30’ length overall.

Yachtfish Marine

N 47°37’ 47.951” | W 122°19’ 48.174”

1141 Fairview Ave. N, Seattle, WA 98109 www.yachtfishmarine.com 206-623-3233 [email protected]

A 60-ton travel lift accommodates haul-outs for vessels up to 70’ length overall. Bottom paint, fiberglass, detailing, and boat restoration services also available.

Yarrow Bay Marina

N 47°39’ 14.969” | W 122°12’ 21.139”

5207 Lake Washington Blvd. N.E., Kirkland, WA 98033 www.yarrowbaymarina.com 425-822-6066 [email protected]

Forklift with 11-foot extensions and 20-foot straps available for haul-outs. It can accommodate vessels weighing up to 15,000 pounds and up to 30’ length overall.

North Sound, San Juans & Bellingham

Albert jensen & sons shipyard.

N 48° 31’ 31.807” | W 122° 59’ 57.318”

1293 Turn Point Road, Friday Harbor, WA 98250 www.jensenshipyard.com 360-378-4343 [email protected]

One 22-ton capacity travel lift available for haul-outs. Both power and sail accommodated. There is a marine store on location.

Cap Sante Marine

N 48° 29’ 54.391” | W 122° 36’ 9.871”

2915 W Ave., Anacortes, WA 98221 www.capsante.com 360-293-3145 [email protected]

Two travel lifts offer haul-outs for vessels up to 50 tons in weight.

Dakota Creek Industries

N 48° 31’ 9.617” | W 122° 36’ 37.992”

820 4th St., Anacortes, WA 98221 www.dakotacreek.com 360-293-9575 [email protected]

Specializing mostly in industrial vessels, haul-out options include cranes for 275-, 175-, 90-, and 60-ton vessels, a Syncrolift Shiplift with a 4,200 ton lifting capacity, a Kamag Transporter for vessels up to 240 tons; and a module transport system for vessels up to 500 tons.

Deer Harbor Boat Works

N 48° 37’ 33.203” | W 123° 0’ 10.108”

155 Channel Rd., Deer Harbor, WA 98243 360-376-4056 [email protected]

Hydraulic trailer and boat ramp available to haul-out vessels weighing up to 20 tons with maximum length overall of 45’. Mechanical repairs, service calls, fiberglass and epoxy work, rigging, long and short term storage. Specializes in wooden boat repair. Marine store on site.

Hilton Harbor Marina

N 48° 45’ 13.365” | W 122° 29’ 33.957”

1000 Hilton Ave,, Bellingham, WA 98225 www.bitterendboatworks.com 360-733-1110

One 12,000-pound capacity hoist for vessels up to 28’ long and 10’ wide are offered. Fuel is also available for purchase.

Islands Marine Center

N 48° 30’ 50.476” | W 122° 54’ 47.685”

2793 Fisherman Bay Rd., Lopez Island, WA 98261 www.islandsmarinecenter.com 360-468-3377

Haul-out by travel lift for vessels up to 25 tons in weight with a maximum beam of 13’. This location monitors VHF channel 69.

La Conner Maritime Services

N 48° 24’ 8.589” | W 122° 29’ 43.504”

920 West Pearl Jensen Way, La Conner, WA 98257 www.laconnermaritime.com 360-466-3629 [email protected]

La Conner Maritime Services operates two travelifts for vessels up to 110 tons in weight with a maximum beam of 24’6”.

Latitude Marine Services

N 48° 22’ 28.981” | W 122° 30’ 23.462”

18578 McGlinn Island Lane, La Conner, WA 98257 www.latitudemarine.com 360-466-4905 [email protected]

A 100-ton capacity sling lift available for haul-outs.

The Landings at Colony Wharf

N 48° 45’ 9.297” | W 122° 29’ 17.447”

1001 C St. A, Bellingham, WA 98225 www.landingscolonywharf.com 360-715-1000 [email protected]

Haul-outs available from a crane with a maximum capacity of 30 tons.

Lovric’s Sea-Craft

N 48° 30’ 40.262” | W 122° 38’ 43.234”

3022 Oakes Ave., Anacortes, WA 9822 www.lovricseacraft.com 360-293-2042 [email protected]

Haul-outs available for boats from 30’ to 150’ length overall. Two marine railways for vessels up to 800 tons in weight with maximum beam of 50’ are available.

Marine Servicenter

N 48° 30’ 9.893” | W 122° 36’ 24.113”

2417 T Ave., Anacortes, WA 98221 www.marinesc.com 360-293-8200 [email protected]

A 55-ton capacity travel lift is available for haul-outs to accommodate vessels with a maximum beam of 18.5’.

Mariner’s Haven

N 48° 17’ 6.828” | W 122° 37’ 52.292”

1701 SE Catalina Dr., Oak Harbor, WA 98277 360-675-8828

Haul-out for both sail and power vessels up to 25 tons and 50’ length overall.

North Harbor Diesel & Yacht Service

N 48° 29’ 54.329” | W 122° 36’ 32.131”

720 30th St. A, Anacortes, WA 98221 www.northharbordiesel.com 360-293-5551 [email protected]

Haul-outs provided by Sea-Lift machines (three available) capable of lifting vessels up to 65’ length overall and weighing up to 45 tons.

North Island Boat Co.

N 48° 29’ 40.312” | W 122° 41’ 4.529”

1910 Skyline Way, Anacortes, WA 98221 www.northislandboat.com 360-293-5635 [email protected]

One travel lift for vessels up to 55 tons and one 20-ton capacity hydraulic trailer are available. This location offers marine electronics packages with installation.

On-Board Marine Services

N 48° 59’ 32.225” | W 122° 45’ 44.909”

218 McMillan Ave., Blaine, WA 98230 www.onboardmarineservices.com 360-332-5051

A travel lift for vessels up to 30 tons and marine railways to 250 tons are available. On-Board Marine serves both commercial and recreational vessels.

Pacific Marine Center

N 48° 30’ 11.288” | W 122° 36’ 27.374”

2302 T Ave., Anacortes, WA 98221 www.pacmarinecenter.com 360-299-8820 [email protected]

Two submersible trailers with 30-ton and 45-ton capacity, accommodating boats up to 65’ length overall; a new travel lift for vessels up to 200 tons and 130’ length overall.

Platypus Marine Inc.

N 48° 7’ 21.974” | W 123° 26’ 39.661”

102 N Cedar St., Port Angeles, WA 98363 www.platypusmarine.com 360-17-0709 [email protected]

A 550-ton capacity travel lift and a 50-ton capacity mobile crane are available for haul-outs. Services also available to vessels in the Port of Port Angeles.

Port of Port Townsend (Port Townsend Boat Yard)

N 48°6’ 28.257” | W 122°46’ 29.796”

2790 Washington St., Port Townsend, WA 98368 www.portofpt.com 360-385-6211 [email protected]

Haul-out facilities include 70-75 ton lifts, as well as one travel lift able to lift vessel up to 330 tons, 150’ in length, and a beam of 30.5’ length overall. This location monitors VHF channel 66-A.

N 48°7’ 5.099” | W 122°45’ 11.005”

419 Jackson St., Port Townsend, WA 98368 www.seamarineco.com 360-385-4000 [email protected]

Haul-out facilities located in Point Hudson Marina. The 30-ton capacity travel lift accommodates most vessels up to 52’ length overall.

Seaview North Boatyard

N 48° 45’ 30.83” | W 122° 30’ 18.923”

2652 N Harbor Loop Dr, Bellingham, WA 98225 www.seaviewboatyard.com 360-676-8282 [email protected]

A 165-ton lift and a 35-ton lift available for haul-out for vessels up to 80’ length overall.

Seaview Yacht Services Fairhaven

N 48° 43’ 12.58” | W 122° 30’ 24.46”

805 Harris Ave., Bellingham, WA 98225 www.seaviewboatyard.com 360-594-4314 [email protected]

A 35-ton capacity lift is available for haul-outs that accommodates vessels up to 80’ length overall.

West Sound Marina

N 48° 37’ 48.476” | W 122° 57’ 6.937”

525 Deer Harbor Road, Eastsound, WA 98245 www.westsoundmarina.net 360-376-2314 [email protected]

Haul-out services by lift, available for vessels up to 30 tons. This location monitors VHF channel 16.

Westwind Marine

N 48° 58’ 40.752” | W 123° 3’ 46.244”

721 Simundson Dr., Point Roberts, WA 98281 www.westwindmarine.net 360-945-5523 [email protected]

A 35-ton travel lift is available for haul-outs. Marine store and parts on location, as well as technicians for Mercury/Mercruiser, Volvo, and Yanmar.

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Sailboat Haul Out Methods: A Cruiser’s Guide

There are many sailboat haul out methods, but which (and where) would we choose as our favourite in south-east Asia?

We’ve been hauling out our boat, Esper , since 2004 (in south-east Asia since 2014) so we have plenty of experience. But with all that practice, and no matter how competent the yard, it’s always somewhat nerve-racking. A sailboat is supposed to be in the water, isn’t it? And once you put it on land, all kinds of stresses and loads appear that weren’t there when she was floating.

Hauling out is particularly disconcerting when it’s the first time with a new yard and a new method.

That being said, there are some general guidelines and best practices that can help you choose the most appropriate method for hauling out your sailboat. Here are some options to consider:

If your sailboat is small and light enough, you may be able to use a boat trailer to haul it out of the water. It is a cost-effective option, as you can often rent a trailer and do the haul out yourself. But, it may not be suitable for most cruising boats.

Travel Lift

A travel lift is a type of crane that can lift your sailboat out of the water and onto land. It’s a common method for hauling out larger sailboats, and is typically done at a boatyard or marina. It feels safe and sturdy when you’re on your boat as it moves to its new temporary home in the boat yard

As sailor and boat owners, we can tell you that there is no one-size-fits-all answer to the question of the best method to haul out a sailboat. The ideal method will depend on a variety of factors, such as the size and weight of the boat, the type of hull, and the location of the haul out facility.

Hydraulic Trailer

A hydraulic trailer is a specialized type of boat trailer that uses hydraulic lifts to raise and lower your sailboat. It is a good option for boats that are too heavy for a regular trailer, but not large enough for a travel lift. The initial outlay is less than a travel lift and many yards in south-east Asia have this option

A railway system uses a cradle on rails to lift your sailboat out of the water onto land. We have seen two of these in south-east Asia (both Thailand) and they seem sturdy.

Ultimately, the best method to haul out your sailboat will depend on a variety of factors, including the size and weight of the boat, the location of the haul out facility, your own experience and confidence in the yard. Before making a decision, it’s important to do the research and consult with a professional or other cruisers in the area who may have used the facilities.

Southeast Asia has all of these methods, and here at Medana Bay, they employ the simple tractor and trailer method.

Hauling out on a track at PSS

But before this, when we arrived in south-east Asia, we hauled out at PSS in southern Thailand. There we undertook a total refit and filmed the year-long process. If boat work in exotic locations is your passion check out our TOTAL REFIT playlist .

PSS is a proper old-fashioned fishing boat yard, so it’s not the prettiest of places. They employ a winch and railway system for haul-out. In a nutshell this means that cradle is rolled into the water on a trolley, the boat manoeuvred on to it, then pulled up until the keel is securely resting there.

Once the boat is in place, a winch system pulls the whole caboodle out of the water onto the yard tracks where it is manoeuvred into its parking slot.

Pangkor Marina’s hydraulic lift

Our next haul-out was at Pangkor Marina in Malaysia, where they use a hydraulic lift with inflatable pads.

This is probably our favourite method of haul-out.

You simply park the boat on top of the trolley, the operator inflates the bed, and then the boat is comfortably pulled onto land! Couldn’t have been easier!

The worldwide Travel Lift

Of course, south-east Asia also has classic travel lifts of varying sizes too.

Krabi Boat Lagoon Marina has the most beautiful hard-stand we’ve every encountered. Here, the lift is planted over the slip and you drive your boat into position. There are loads of staff to take lines, hold the boat, and attach slings, allowing you to get off and go for breakfast while the staff haul and park your boat.

But not all yards are created equal, and although Kudat does have a travel lift, we discovered that access to the slip was tricky.

There were unusual currents, countless obstacles and a jagged entrance. And once we made it through the obstacles we were left to rely on help from a sailor mate with a fag in his mouth who caught our line and held us in place (because there was no cleat)!

Jamie reveals our ALL-TIME FAVOURITE ANTI-FOUL PAINT in episode 339 on our YouTube channel . Watch it here on followtheboat or go straight to YouTube.

How often should I haul out my sailboat? It’s recommended to haul out your sailboat at least once a year for routine maintenance and inspections. If you notice any issues or damage, it’s important to haul out your sailboat as soon as possible.

Can I leave my sailboat on the hard for an extended period? Yes, you can leave your sailboat on the hard for an extended period, but it’s important to take the necessary precautions to prevent damage. This includes regularly checking the hull and ensuring that the sailboat is properly secured.

How much does it cost to haul out a sailboat? The cost of hauling out a sailboat can vary, always check with the yard first.

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Hauling Out and Laying-Up Ashore

Unless you're lucky enough to keep your boat someplace where you can sail all year around, you're going to face the annual chore of hauling out and laying her up ashore for several months each year.

If your cruising ground is in the higher latitudes then you'll probably want to haul your boat out during the autumn to avoid the rigours of the winter weather.

In tropical regions it's not snow and ice you need to worry about; it's much worse - hurricanes, or depending on your location, cyclones or typhoons.

These malevolent monsters can occur during the summer and autumn months, so the prudent boater will looking to haul out in late spring. 

Either way, your first concern will be in having your boat hauled out of the water safely and without damage, but there are a couple of things to attend to first...

Before Hauling Out...

Some things are best done before hauling out, while the boat's still afloat. For example...

1 - Getting the Sails Off

Now's the time to get the sails down, flaked and bagged - and it's much easier to do with the boat head to wind, which she may well not be when laid up ashore.

And it's never a good idea to leave furling headsails in place; they have a habit of unfurling in a blow.

2 - Changing the Engine Oil

Condensation will have collected on internal engine surfaces throughout the season and this is now contained within the oil. This can cause damage if left in the engine over the winter, so it should be changed along with the oil filters. 

The oil should be warm and viscous or it won't drain properly, so now's the time to do it - just before hauling out.

On Hauling Out...

This always gets the pulse rate up and the sphincter muscle twitching - if you're the owner that is. Now, about those strops...

Positioning the Strops

Lifting strops can do a deal of damage to underwater parts during haul-out if they're incorrectly positioned. Particularly vulnerable are the rudder, the propeller and shaft, and the thru-hull log impeller.

I always place a length of blue masking tape on the hull sides to let the crane driver know where to put the strops. 

Make sure the yard staff put some protection between the hull side and the strop - a sheet of cardboard is fine.

Beware of the Squeeze

If a crane is used for the haul-out, the strops will be hung from a single hook which will impose a pinching load on the hull topsides.

The beamier the boat and the shorter the strops, the greater this load will be. 

Stanchions, toe-rails and guard wires are at risk here - you may need to route the strops inside the guard wires to avoid damaging them, particularly for the stern strop.

Masthead instruments too are vulnerable.

There's no problem at all if the crane driver fits a spreader bar to open up the stern strop, but that means removing the back stay - a prospect which few owners relish, swept back spreaders or not.

Using a crane for hauling out is very much weather dependent. High Winds? Forget it! 

Larger boatyards with a purpose-built dock will likely use a travel hoist instead of a crane.

The wider spread of the strops completely eliminates the crushing loads on the hull but means the boats can't be stacked as closely together - unless that is, they've got one of these...

This is a boat handling trolley, which works in conjunction with a travel hoist.

Some are designed to be towed, but others - like this one at  Spice Island Marine  in Grenada - are motorised.

Another approach to hauling out is by forklift. These were originally developed for the dry storage of small powerboats in racks. 

In this case the large rubberised forks are slid under the boat's flat chines which can be raised and lowered as required. 

Sailboats can't be supported on the forks in this way, so they're dealt with by slinging in strops as shown above.

In the yard where this shot was taken -  Yacht Haven Quay, Plymouth  - they haul out sailboats with their Wiggins 'Marina Bull' Forklift, the largest of which can handle sailboats of up to 10,000lb and lift heights of up to 54 feet.

Breezy conditions raise no problems with a forklift, and the absence of a crane hook means there's no risk of damage to the masthead instruments.

Tripod Jackstands or a Boat Cradle?

If you're using tripod jackstands you'll need at least two either side of course - for my 38 footer I have four either side and one under the bow. 

Unless you're on a concrete hardstanding, each leg of every tripod should be supported by a square of plywood or planking to prevent the foot of the tripod sinking into the ground during heavy rain. 

Each tripod should be chained to its mate on the opposite side of the boat - better still instead of chains, use a network of welded rebar tie-rods to prevent the tripods moving.

Make sure the boat is leveled up such that rainwater will escape through the cockpit drains. A spirit level will be useful here.

For ultimate boat security during the lay-up season, nothing beats a properly designed cradle, particularly if the boat is strapped down to ground anchors too...

Now the Real Work Starts...

If you keep your boat in the Caribbean, you really should take a look at 

'Choosing a Boatyard for the Caribbean Hurricane Season...'

High wind, heavy rain, freezing winters and tropical summers will all conspire to play havoc with your pride and joy.

Inside the boat condensation, corrosion and mildew will be similarly at work.

Here's what you need to do to counteract their malevolent intent:~

Anchor & Chain

Drop the anchor and chain onto a clean surface (an old pallet is ideal), thoroughly rinse in fresh water and allow to dry. Similarly clean the anchor locker before re-stowing the anchor and chain. This is also a good opportunity to check the condition of the chain and galvanising.

Running Rigging

All running rigging including the mainsheet tackle, the kicker assembly, sheets, lazy jacks, sheets and other control lines should be removed and soaked in a mild detergent solution, then allowed to soak in fresh water before drying naturally.

Tie messenger lines to the ends of all your halyards, remove them and clean them as above. 

If you choose not to remove your halyards, make sure they're tied off well clear of the mast, otherwise the constant slapping will damage the mast anodising.

Thru' Hull Fittings

I like to remove my thru' hull log impeller and depth sounder transducer for two reasons:

• It improves ventilation;
• If rainwater does get below, it will drain out;

But if you're in an area where insects and other undesirable wildlife are a problem, then the apertures should be covered by a rot-proof mesh and stuck down with tape as shown here.

Who's not discovered a seacock that was operating flawlessly at the end of one season to be seized solid at the beginning of the next? Here's how to avoid that happening:

• Have one person inside the hull operating the seacock, and another outside armed with a can of non-petroleum based aerosol penetrating lubricant;
• With the seacock open, spray a load of oil up through the seacock into the pipe above, then loudly shout "Close!" ;
• Leave, for the time being, that particular seacock and move on to the next one. This will allow the oil to run onto the barrel of the seacock and do its penetrating stuff;
• When all seacocks have been dealt with in this way, go back to the first one and open and close it several times. Providing it operates freely, leave it closed and move on to the next one. For any that don't open and close easily, repeat the process until it does.

What you definitely don't want in your fuel is  'cladisporium resinae'  which is the correct term for the well known diesel bug that can cause havoc with our engines.

Here's how to prevent this malevolent fungal growth from taking up residence in your fuel:~

• Fill your fuel tank completely, so that there's little or no air space above the fuel in the tank. Why? Well, it's here that condensation would otherwise occur, and our little bug friend needs water to establish itself and multiply;
• Treat the fuel with a biocide designed to kill the little blighters if they've managed to get established despite your efforts.

Not sure if your fuel is contaminated? There are several diesel fuel bug detector kits on the market that will tell you one way or the other.

Exhaust Waterlock

These moulded plastic devices collect water that drains back from a wet exhaust system, preventing it from running back into the engine, and also reducing the noise in the exhaust system.

They're usually fitted with a drain plug for draining out any water before the winter lay-up. If you don't do this, you risk any contained water freezing and splitting the waterlock.

And you should also disconnect the engine-side hose. If you don't, particularly in hot climates, any remaining water in the waterlock will evaporate and the water vapour will find its way into the top end of the engine, causing havoc with the valves.

You might not want to remove the mast every year - particularly if the yard you're in has no mast storage racks - but doing so every four years or so for a close inspection and overhaul makes good sense.

As a minimum the aft end of the boom should be lashed down on deck, but it's better to remove it completely and lay it on the side-deck or coach-roof.

Cutless Bearing

Also known as Cutlass Bearings, these water lubricated devices are fitted inside the P-Bracket, supporting the shaft and maintaining its alignment with the gearbox. Check your shaft for movement within the bearing. If there's anything more than the slightest movement, you need to fit a new one.

This is the time to check all sacrificial anodes. If they're significantly eroded they should be renewed. If they don't appear to be eroding much at all, it's not a cause for celebration - you need to find out why they're not doing what they're supposed to do, so check all connections and contact surfaces.

Incidentally, if your boat's propeller shaft is supported by a P-bracket it's always worth fitting a shaft anode ahead of it. Then, if your shaft coupling fails, your propshaft won't slide out through the hull leaving a hole that could sink you.

Here, the owner has fitted three shaft anodes, but they're a little too close to the P-bracket.

Why? Well the cutless bearing requires a thru-flow of water to lubricate it, and in this arrangement the proximity of the anodes is diverting the water flow around it. Expect it to wear out soon.

So fit the shaft anode at least 3" (75mm) or so forward of the bearing, allowing the anode the lubrication it's entitled to, which will extend its life considerably.

Batteries, Windcharger & Solar Panels

You can either make sure your batteries are fully charged, then disconnect them to reduce current drain to a minimum, or leave the battery bank connected to a solar or wind-powered charging device.

One of the small vertical axis trickle charge wind generators is ideal for this, but their more muscular horizontal axis cousins may well overcharge the batteries or destroy themselves in a winter storm. In my view they're best tied up in such a way that the blades can't rotate but allows the whole thing to weathercock into the wind.

Solar panels too are excellent for keeping the batteries topped up during the winter lay-up, their charge being much reduced due to the low altitude of the sun and the short daylight hours.

But if you do choose to keep them charged in this way, you should also leave a low current electrical device switched on, as batteries like to 'work'. Not a GPS set though, because prolonged use may damage the screen - as I found out to my cost. 

Read the makers instructions for details of how to prepare it for a long lay-up. Our Katadyne needs to be biocided (I may have created a new verb there) if it is to produce anything other than disappointment on next year's cruise.

The Gas System

Light all burners, then turn off the gas at the bottle remembering to turn the burners off when they go out.

Remove all canvas covers - sprayhoods (that's 'dodgers' in US speak) dodgers (that's 'weather cloths' in the US), sailcovers, cockpit cushions etc - wash in warm soapy water, rinse and store until launch time.

Outboard Motor

Outboard motors, that whilst working perfectly at the end of one season, can steadfastly refuse to get up and go at the beginning of the next. 

What you need is 'fogging' oil. Here's how to use it:~

• Fire up the outboard, making sure the cooling water intakes are fully submerged of course;
• turn off the fuel supply, leaving the engine running at idle;
• just before the engine dies, it will start to cough and splutter. At this point, spray fogging oil into the carburretor until it stops. You can ignore the smoke...  

This will purge all the petrol (US, gas) from the fuel system, reducing the possibility of varnish forming as petrol evaporates, and will coat all internal engine parts and protect against corrosion.

A Hauling Out and Laying Up Checklist

We all have our own  Hauling Out and Laying Up Checklist  - here's ours...

Accessories

• Clean and bag dinghy;
• Remove BBQ;
• Remove Danbuoy and HS lifebuoy; 
• Remove Life Sling; 
• Lubricate locks;       
• Remove all batteries from torches etc; 
• Wash insect screens;
• Clean watermaker filters; 
• Pickle watermaker;
• Turn off gas at cooker and bottle;   
• Turn off gas locker vent valve; 
• Sort chart table contents;
• Flush toilet with fresh water;
• Turn off inverter circuit breaker;
• Turn off battery isolators; 
• Turn off anchor windlass circuit breaker;

Fabrics and Interior

• Clean underside main hatch;
• Clean bilge;
• Clean carpets and cabin sole;
• Clean and close curtains;
• Clean upholstery;  
• Fill fuel tank;
• Drain and dry water tanks;

Hull, Deck and Cockpit

• Remove tiller;
• Check condition of anodes;
• Fit deck hatch covers;
• Remove thru-hulls and install insect mesh;
• Deck/Hull clean;
• Wash anchor, chain and locker;
• Clean stainless steel;
• Fit instrument covers;
• Tie up windcharger and turn off;
• Lay up outboard motor;
• Main engine oil/filter change;
• Grease shaft seal;
• Drain and disconnect exhaust box;
• Lubricate seacocks;
• Clean and grease prop;

Sails & Canvas

• Remove and wash bimini;
• Remove and wash dodgers (weathercloths);
• Remove/bag sails;
• Remove and wash sailcovers;
• Remove and wash sprayhood;
• Clean cockpit seats and cushions;

Spars and Rigging

• Remove jackstays;
• Remove mainsheet, vang, runners etc;
• Tie out halyards;
• Secure boom on deck;

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The Haul Out Checklist Every Boater Needs

If you’re a vessel owner, you know that boat haul-out is an absolute must. It is necessary for regular maintenance and repairs to ensure that your boat stays in good condition. And as the end of the boating season is nearing, it is time to store your vessels for the winter. Even if you live in a warmer climate with less harsh winters, there are still some valuable maintenance procedures you can implement at this time of year.

Haul out is highly recommended for annual maintenance and cleaning purposes, relocating the vessel or treating areas susceptible to wear and tear or moisture damage.

Table of Contents

While the procedures can be daunting, experts suggest doing it right to protect your vessel throughout the colder seasons. That said, this blog provides a comprehensive checklist for boat owners to follow, to ensure a successful haul out. What to Do Before the Haul Out?

As per reports , mechanical failure was one of the five main reasons leading to boat accidents in 2021, further emphasizing the importance of timely maintenance. That said, hauling out your boat before winterizing ensures your boat is in optimal condition when spring comes around. Here are some expert pre-haul-out tips to follow, as you proceed:

• Mechanical test run: Take your yacht on a short spin to analyze the mechanical condition. Warm up the engine and proceed to run at high rpm to check whether it runs smoothly. If you cannot reach the maximum engine rpm, it is likely that there may be some issues.
• Shaft seal test: During the boat haul out , analyze whether the bronze housing surpasses a temperature of 130 degrees Fahrenheit (which is a service indication). If your stuffing box contains dripless seals, check whether it’s in exact condition or if service is required.
• Weight reduction: Your boat need not be heavier than usual while being carried out on land. Thus, ensure to drain any excess water, waste tanks or heavy materials onboard to bring back the weight to normal.

To read a detailed blog on how to winterize your boat, click here .

Post-Haul Out Procedures You Should Know

If you’re present while your boat is being carried out of the water, here are a few things you must cross-examine first:

• Immediately pressure wash after boat haul out to ensure that the bottom is clean.
• Examine for blisters on the wet surface and request to analyze the base with a moisture meter.
• Once the bottom dries out, see for any wet patches or moisture and chalk out these areas for maintenance.

Important Boat Maintenance Tips to Follow

Hauling out your boat creates an excellent chance to carry out necessary maintenance tasks. Mentioned below are some additional boat maintenance tips in that context to help you increase your boat’s lifespan –

• Paint the bottom: Check for areas with paint loss to recolor after cleaning the hull and leave it to dry before it sails into the waters again.
• Check for corrosion: Being a common step during marine management , it’s important to examine all corners for signs of corroded exterior/interior to pursue anti-rusting treatment.
• Examine anode condition: If you find a higher number of eroded anodes, it’s an indication of replacement. Although zinc is widely popular, aluminum is a more eco-friendly alternative for fresh-water boating.

Shrink-wrapping Your Boat: Simple, but Effective Form of Protection

Shrink-wrapping a boat before winter is of paramount importance in maintaining its longevity and protecting it from harsh weather conditions. Winter presents numerous challenges for boats, such as freezing temperatures, snow, ice, and prolonged exposure to moisture. Shrink-wrapping acts as a robust barrier against these elements, serving as a protective shield for the boat’s exterior.

The shrink-wrap material used in the process is made from high-quality, durable polymer film that tightly envelops the entire boat, creating a sealed environment. This barrier prevents moisture from seeping into the boat, safeguarding it against potential damages caused by water intrusion. Moreover, shrink-wrapping acts as a safeguard against snow accumulation by providing a structurally rigid covering that can withstand the weight of heavy snowfall.

Benefits of Shrink-Wrapping Your Boat

In addition to its protective qualities, shrink-wrapping also helps to prevent the growth of mold and mildew. By creating a sealed environment, it effectively restricts the entry of moisture, which is conducive to the growth of these harmful agents. This is especially crucial for boats that are stored outdoors during the winter months.

Furthermore, shrink-wrapping a boat has the added benefit of deterring pests and critters from taking refuge within the vessel. The snug fit of the shrink-wrap discourages rodents, birds, and insects from accessing the boat’s interior and potentially causing damage.

Beyond the protective aspects, shrink-wrapping a boat before winter also simplifies post-winterization processes. Removal of the shrink-wrap is a straightforward task, and it eliminates the need for extensive cleaning or extensive maintenance that would otherwise be required if the boat were exposed to the elements throughout the winter.

Wrapping Up

In conclusion, regular haul-outs can help detect mechanical, chassis, or secondary problems before they can incur serious damage. about dockmaster inc..

DockMaster is an industry-leading marine management system for marinas, boatyards, and boat dealerships. Visual Marina™ management includes storage & billing, occupancy tracking, reservations, and dry stack management, including integrations to leading consumer applications for boat rentals, online reservations, concierge/launch scheduling, and our new fuel integration with FuelCloud. To request a free demo, click here .

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(904) 824-2520

29° 52.49 | W. 81° 18.56

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Services/Rates

Our Travel Lift can accommodate vessels up to 75 tons with beams up to 21’

Up to 45’: $12.00 per foot 46’ and Up: $14.00 per foot Price Per Hour: $300.00

Travel lift extra strap fees: $50 per extra strap. Chine blocks added to straps: $50 per set of chine blocks.

150 Galion Crane Price Per Hour: $300.00

Forklift Price Per Hour: $100.00

Please Note – Hurricane Haul Out rates are double our everyday rates. Please call for Hurricane Haul Out Procedures and/or availability.

Yard Storage Rates:

• Daily Rate:
• $1.25 per ft.
• Monthly Storage Rate:
• 1st 30 days – $10.00 2nd 30 days – $11.00 (Applies if mast is not placed on top of boat) 60 days or longer – $12.00
• Mast Storage:
• $1.00 per ft. (Applies if mast is not placed on top of boat)
• Utility Rates:
• “Do It Yourself” (work & repairs):

Live Aboard:

• Storage Only:
• 1-2 people (each addtl. person is $4.00/day or $50.00/month per person)
• Dockage Rates:

Equipment Rates:

• Travel Lift:
• Boom Truck:

Quick Hauls:

• Quick Hauls Include:
• Zincs and Pressure Washing, Custom Fiberglass Fabrication, Mechanical and Electrical Services, Alexseal & Awlgrip – Hull and Top Side Finishing, Shaft and Prop Repair and Aluminum and Stainless TIG Welding.

Bottom Jobs:

• Bottom Jobs Include:
• Haul, block, and launch, pressure washing bottom of boat, and washing hull sides. Bottom will be painted with (2) coats of Micron 66 unless otherwise specified by owner. Does not include – zincs, prep work, underwater gear, or cost of bottom paint. Storage rates will apply if boat is not picked up after 24 hours of notification of job completion. Please Note: Vessel WILL NOT be hauled with extensive barnacles or heavy growth. Please have a diver clean prior to arrival.

30 – 35 ft: 1st Coat $18.00 2nd Coat $9.00

36 – 40 ft: 1st Coat $19.00 2nd Coat $9.50

41 – 45 ft: 1st Coat $20.50 2nd Coat $10.25

46 – 50 ft: 1st Coat $21.50 2nd Coat $10.75

51 – 55 ft: 1st Coat $23.50 2nd Coat $11.75

Underwater Gear: Each job is quoted and charged by labor time and material. We offer two different applications.

1. InterProtect + Hard Bottom Paint Sandblast all running gear down to bare metal. Four coats of InterProtect 2000 Epoxy is applied and two coats of hard bottom paint applied.

2. PropSpeed Running Gear Coating Hand sand all metal areas to bare metal. Apply PropSpeed protectant to bare metal. This is a (2) man application.

Travel Lift Rates: 75 Ton Travel Lift can accommodate vessels with beams up to 21 feet.

Haul Out/Pressure Wash/Block/Launch 45 ft. & Under – $10.00 per ft. 46 ft & Over – $12.00 per ft.

*PLEASE NOTE: HURRICANE RATES ARE DOUBLED THE STANDARD HAUL OUT COST. THIS DOES NOT INCLUDE PRESSURE WASHING. BOATS MUST BE CLEANED AND BARNICLE FREE PRIOR TO ARRIVAL. LAST BOAT LAUNCHED, FIRST BOAT HAULED AFTER 24 HOUR STORM CLEARANCE HAS BEEN DECLARED.

PRESSURE WASHING:

45 ft. & Under: $1.00 per foot 46 ft. & Over – $1.25 per ft.

Additional Straps: $50.00 ea. Blocking for Spray Rails: $75.00 Bubble Wrap Straps: $40.00 per strap

Off Load from truck to block & launch 45 ft. & under – $9.00 per ft. 46 ft. & Over – $11.00 per ft.

Off Load from truck to water 45 ft. & under – $8.00 per ft. 46 ft. & Over – $10.00 per ft.

Load on Truck for transport Add (1) hr. labor $90.00 PLUS (1) hr. travel lift $100.00

Survey Hauls (includes ½ hr. in slings) 45 ft. & Under – $10.00 per ft. 46 ft & Over – $12.00 per ft.

Re-Block Boat (Lift boat at owner’s request & reset) 45 ft. & under – $8.50 per ft. 46 ft. & Over – $10.00 per ft.

LABOR RATES: (Min. 1 hr charge) $100.00 per hr.

Mechanical/Electrical/Fiberglass/ Carpentry/Rigging/ Prep Work/Welding $90.00 per hr.

Relocate Boat Stands (to paint under pads) and General Labor * Any work that requires travel outside of the boatyard will be subject to the labor rate of $125.00 per hour.

256 Riberia St St. Augustine, FL N. (904) 824-2520 29° 52.49 W. 81° 18.56 Buoy: Green 17 (San Sebastian River)

HOURS Mon thru Thurs. 8AM to 4:00PM

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Rocky Pointe Marina – Boatyard Rates (Effective 8-9-2024)

The Boatyard at Rocky Pointe The following are some of our basic rates. Costs may vary by job. We will provide an estimate once we inspect the boat. In most all cases you will find that our services cost less than other boatyards. We provide professional service and stand behind the work we do. Over 100 years combined experience in boating & boat repair. ABYC Certified.

Labor Rates Shipwright Yard Rate – $150hr Electrical, Mechanical & Fiberglass – $150hr Mobile Labor – $175/hr. with cc number upfront – drive time includedd

Bottom Paint $35/ft* (min charge 25′ – $875) 2 Coats Paint – plus paint

Per foot rate includes round trip lift to and from water or trailer, blocking, pressure wash, standard preparation hand scuff and application of paint.

Paint cost is extra and sold 10% above our wholesale cost based on quantity used. We stock hard modified epoxy, durable ablative and soft ablative paints. Owners can provide their own paint if desired.

*Environmental fee add $5/ ft. includes ground tarp, paint chip and dust collection and disposal

*If aggressive sanding or grinding needed, tarp off boat bottom/side – $5/ft.

*Boats over 45ft add $300

*Additional sanding or preparation needed for flaking, damage or old paint with excessive growth estimated per job

*New or unpainted boat bottoms require additional preparation and estimated per job

Travelift/ Haul Out Round Trip to yard or one way to or from trailer – $12/ft.*($240 min). Trailer loading extra.

Insurance survey haul out 1 hr. hang time – $11/ft.*

Pre –sale Survey haul out w/ accredited surveyor 1 hr. hang time – $10 per ft.

Loading or fitting on trailer. $150 1 st  hour, includes Travelift operator and helper. After 1 st  hour, cost is $200 per hr.

Pressure Wash (included in bottom paint package) – $4ft

Blocking on stands in yard (included in bottom paint package) – $120 <40’; 40’ and above $175

*Add $275 to any haul out of a boat 45’ and larger

*If additional third sling is needed – add $200 (ex. wood boats 36′ and above)

*If special blocking or pads need to be used under straps- add $50

Mast Stepping – Call for Rates 2-part painting topside/deck/cabin – Estimated per job Buffing/waxing topside/deck/cabin – Estimated per job

Blister Repairs Individual blister repair, non- structural including grinding, filling and fairing – $75 each

Individual blister repair, structural requiring layup- estimated @ $150/hr.

Peel bottom, barrier coat and add layer of glass– Starting at $500/ft.

Hot Vac Hull and Deck Drying – $200 day – for machine use, labor extra

Environmental Fees Ground Cover Plastic – $5 per ft. Tarp off underside of boat for aggressive sanding or grinding – $5/ft.

Other Rates Outside Contractor Fee, $30/hr. per man, must be insured and approved by boatyard in advance

Outside contractors only allowed for work our yard does not provide

Emergency Lift or work after hours or weekends – $250/hr

Lay Days, no lay day charges for boats being worked on by our yard – $150 per day -ask about policies, ie. insurance delay, delay in pickup, storage.

Mast lay days small $10/day large $15/day, no charge if we are painting mast.

Electricity no charge except if heated during winter. $5/day. Not responsible for refrigerators.

QUESTIONS? Contact boatyard manager Dave Salmi @ 503-543-2785 or  [email protected]

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Haul Out & Mobile Service

Off The Hook Yachts - Service utilizes a wide beam 70-ton Marine Travellift for vessel haul out. Certified steel and concrete travel lift piers extend into the Cape Fear River, for a deep lift well basin. Up to 90’ length overall (LOA), both power and sail can be hauled for dry dock service. Off The Hook Yachts - Service can travel to your marina or private dock for in-water service on your vessel. Our territory includes the greater Wilmington area, Wrightsville Beach, Carolina Beach, Southport, Hampstead, and beyond. Mobile marine service is provided as far as Myrtle Beach and Charleston, South Carolina for local boats and transients alike.

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2021 Caribbean Haul Out Guide & Boatyard Update

You know you want it...

Mocka Jumbies and Rum...

Hauling a vessel is an annual rite of passage for many, especially in the Caribbean when yachts are usually safer on the hard for hurricane season. All At Sea reached out to nearly 50 boatyards in the Caribbean to learn what’s new (See Sidebar) and to get these experts advice on three key questions. Here’s a sampling of responses:

Finding the Right Yard & Preparing   a Vessel for Haul-Out

It’s important to do some research before a haul out. For example, says Douglas Rapier, of Douglas Yacht Services , in Le Marin, Martinique, “first look for a dry dock that respects the current environmental regulations. Secondly, a port that offers several high-quality services typically required during a haul-out and for annual maintenance. Third, remember that everything has a price. Low price frequently equates to lower quality when it comes to rigging, electrical and mechanical repairs.”

To prepare a vessel for hauling, especially during the summer, is to make sure as much storm prep as possible is done ahead of time, recommends Bentley Hodge, boatyard manager at Nanny Cay Marina & Boatyard , in Tortola, British Virgin Islands. “Remove and store the genoa/jib and remove the mainsail. If not removed, the mainsail should be secured, and the boom lowered to the deck or coach roof where possible and secured.”

Hodge additionally suggests removing any canvassing such as dodgers, sprayhoods, Bimini tops or loose deck gear and stow. All running rigging should be secure and fastened away from the mast to avoid excessive noise and wear and tear. Remove and stow all loose deck gear, cushions, pillows, fenders, etc. Remove solar panels and wind generators. Lastly, dinghies should be deflated and strapped upside down on the deck or stored under a catamaran.

Do leave available manuals onboard if you plan to have work performed on the boat while it’s hauled, advises Laura Fletcher, who with husband Jason, operate Grenada Marine , in St. David’s, Grenada, which has just introduced its new logo.

Before the haul-out, make sure your haul strap markings are in place before entering the slipway, have fenders on both sides of the boat, adds Milton McKenzie, boatyard manager at IGY’s Rodney Bay Marina , in St. Lucia.

On the other hand, this process is much easier on an owner if the yacht is purchased through a charter operator. The operator, says Jo-Ann Downing, director of Voyage Charters , at the Soper’s Hole Marina on Frenchman’s Cay, BVI, “will prepare the vessel for haul-out according to the boat’s bookings and dates dependent on weather. The company hauls most of its vessels at the West End Boat Yard.

Maintenance Work While Hauled

When it comes to a maintenance worklist, set your priorities, as per Jeff Howell, general manager at Bobby’s MegaYard , in St. Maarten. “The first is what must be done such as leaking Shaft Packing, Antifouling and any stuck overboard valves. The second list of what should be done, and the third what would be nice to be done if there is time and money.”

Corrosion spots are something to especially check for once the vessel is hauled, says Mark Ten Hoopen, owner of Boatyard Bonaire , near Kralendijk. “We see a lot of them. Also, check all your through-hull fittings and all valves. This is the time to see if they need to be changed. It’s not a fun job, but essential to get fixed in the yard.”

Wash and paint the bottom of the vessel before returning it to the water, says Carlos Ponce, sales and customer service manager at Puerto Del Rey , in Fajardo, Puerto Rico. “For vessels with motors, it is important to maintain generators, transmissions, propellers and engines. If your vessel is a sailboat or catamaran, it is important to perform maintenance on the generators, and clean and treat the propellers, transmission and engines. Also, to inspect the rigging cables that support the mast.”

When & How to Relaunch

Most captains and owners with vessels in the Caribbean wait until the end of hurricane season, November 1, or after to relaunch.

“It is always best to check with the boatyard for scheduling. Avoid the rush. Launch your vessel on days when the yard is less likely to be busy… between the ‘T’S’ Tuesday – Thursday,” suggests Nanny Cay Marina’s Hodge.

Finally, adds Bobby’s MegaYard’s Howell, before relaunch “the captain and crew need to board and do a full inspection of all areas that were worked on such as the overboard valves and shaft packing. A complete check for water leaks needs to be quickly done before the belts are released from the boat as it is much easier to lift out again if there is a problem. Once checked and found to be fine, the captain can head out to his next destination.”

WHAT’S NEW – CARIBBEAN BOATYARD UPDATE

Here’s a round-up of what’s new at a sampling of boatyards throughout the caribbean..

Jamaica. The Errol Flynn Marina & Shipyard in Port Antonio is under new management, who are working to improve all services and the facility’s general esthetics. “Over the years the boatyard has moved towards being a ‘DIY’ space. As such, there is a greater thrust towards having outside contractors – who are available on request – to undertake electrical and mechanical works, minor sail repairs and carpentry,” says Donna Wilson, marina manager.

The Bahamas. Bradford Marine , in Freeport, Grand Bahama, expects to take delivery of a new 150-ton Marine Travelift in December. The lift is capable of hauling vessels up to 31-ft wide, 125-ft long and 14-ft draft. Other updates are a new onsite generator to mitigate downtime in a city power failure, solar power lighting installation as part of a clean energy initiative, new General Manager and Operation Superintendent. “Also, with the canal harbor expansion, our canal entrance will become completely unrestricted: no more narrow entrance and vessels needing to back down the channel due to their inability to maneuver in the channel,” says Ray Lightbourne, general manager.

Turks & Caicos. The haul-out ramp at the Southbank Marina and Boatyard in Providenciales is now wider at 36-ft. Also new are state-of-the-art added dock slips, haul-out floating dock and main dock, plus a high-tech fuel farm with a 15,000-gallon capacity each for diesel ULSD and REC 90 gasoline.  

Dominican Republic. The IBC Shipyard at Marina Casa de Campo in La Romana has recently become an authorized dealer and service provider of Asea Power System, CMC Stabilizers and Propspeed.

Puerto Rico. Some of the newest contractors at Puerto Del Rey Marina in Fajardo are The Yacht Garage, One Stop Marine and Wally Castro Marine. In San Juan, the Puerto Rico Ports Authority and Isla Borinquen LLC announced the execution of a long-term lease to create San Juan Yacht & Ship (SJYS) , a superyacht maintenance and refit yard at Pier 15 near the Convention Center. Project highlights include a 645-ft Graving/Dry Dock, use of the 950-ft Outfitting Pier and 8 acres of uplands to support yachts and commercial vessels up to 625-ft in length. SJYS will also invest in a floating dry dock and mobile trolley system to lift and haul yachts and ships on the property and use the 102,000-sq-ft of buildings, which will be renovated on-site. The $15M phase one investment and renovation will be completed over the next two years. However, yachts can begin in-water refit this fall.

St. Croix, U.S. Virgin Islands. St. Croix Marine Center is now the Mercury Marine distributor for the island, with a certified Mercury technician on staff. “We have upgraded our crane to a 33-ton Terex, which enables us to de-mast sailboats safely and lift heavier boats, engines and other loads. We have 4 new moorings, which rent for $30/day,” says Chris Hanley, owner.

St. Maarten & Guadeloupe. F.K.G. Marine Rigging & Fabrication in Cole Bay, and sister facility, IMM , in Pointe a Pitre, are now RigPro Caribbean . “This is an exciting development allowing the companies to work as OEM on all Southern Spars, Hall Spars and Future Fibers masts and rigging as a manufacturer representative,” says Norina Edelman, manager.

Antigua & Barbuda. There’s new ownership at the Jolly Harbour Marina & Boatyard , in Jolly Harbour. “There will be some investment being made through the low season to refurbish the last section of the boardwalk as well as significantly enhancing the level of CCTV security,” says Jo Lucas, general manager. The property welcomes ABSAR (Antigua Barbuda Search and Rescue), which will be based along the waterside in the boatyard. The Antigua Port in Jolly Harbour reopened in July, with Customs, Immigration and Port Authority joined by the Port Health department. In English Harbour, Antigua Slipway Ltd . has introduced a new Guardianship Service, where the company caretakes vessels and provides monthly feedback reports, inclusive of photos and suggestions for repairs. “Before the 2022 season begins, we will embark on an extensive renovation of our Railway, which can haul motor and sailing yacht up to 200 tons and 200-ft LOA,” says Roberto Falangola, managing director. “We are also exploring the possibility of renovating one of our old carpentry buildings into a 6 room, 12 guest Crew House.”

Dominica. The Dominica Marine Center , in Roseau, has welcomed a new technician/mechanic, Pablo Villarroel, who comes with many years of service in the industry.  

Grenada. New eatery, One Love Restaurant & Bar, is open at Spice Island Marine Services in True Blue. The company’s main office is now located above the Budget Marine store for easier access and there’s a new ABYC (American Boat & Yacht Council) certified technician.  

Trinidad & Tobago. Peake Yacht Services in Chaguaramas reminds boaters that the island’s border opened to international visitors in July. In the past year, according to Christopher Peake, the island’s Port Authority has placed new navigational and marker buoys to mark safe navigation routes in the waterways around the peninsula. The Coast Guard has received several brand new, large patrol vessels, adding to an already large and expanding fleet, to ensure safe navigation around island waters. On the fun front, there’s now an official bicycle lane that extends the length of the peninsula and is cordoned off from the main road. This lane allows access to attractions such as Five Islands Water Park, the Chaguaramas Boardwalk, and Samaan Park, and a variety of natural cascades, waterfalls, and rivers. Plus, there’s a new farm-to-table restaurant/market in Chaguaramas called U-Pick.

Curacao. Curacao Marine , in Willemstad, has new laundry machines.

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Haulout costs

• Thread starter frank balcer
• Start date May 2, 2007
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

frank balcer

Just put my Pearson 30 "Sandi's Wings" back in the water after being on the hill for 2 weeks for prop, shaft, cutlass work and new bottom paint. Down here in Mississippi nobody hauls out for winter but normaly hauls every two years. The yard I used charges $175 to haul and splash (no matter what size) and $17.50 a day for a 30 footer. Grand total tax and all $449.40. Im wondering what folks pay in other areas of the country?  

Slidell Before Katrina, cost here in Slidell was 10bucks a foot to haul, power wash and splash, and 10 a day while on the hard. May be higher now. Will find out pretty soon, as I have a bottom job due. What marina do you use there, might be worth me looking into. Not sure what the availability is around here for yard space. I know it's kind of tight since Katrina.  

It's about $180 to haul & splash a 30' boat here, but yard time is $125 a day, makes it cheaper to have the yard do some things than yourself. Especially if you get hung up waiting for parts or machine work.  

Your'e getting a deal Two hundred fifty to haul and One hundred fifty a lay day. Los Angeles.Regards, Big Joe  

In the great lakes My winter storage is 658.50 per season ( 21.95 FT) outside, mast up. For that i get haul, bottom wash, storage and splashthe next year. The service is the best you can find on Lake MI. Haul rates are 8.00 a ft. or 9.50 a ft for haul, hold in slings and launch same day Pray for Wind, Lugeman  

$450 $450 for my O'day 28. Haul, bottom wash, extra attention to the water line, splash in the spring, handling and storing my empty cradle in the summer. Storage season is from when I arrive in the fall till I choose to launch in the spring.This is for outside winter storage in a lighted fenced yard. No extra security.The prices vary widely across the country. I suppose it is a supply and demand issue or the yards in a given area agree on a certain price for different services.  

Great Deal on Lake Ontario We have plenty to choose from on the Canadian side of Lake Ontario. I live just outside Toronto, and we belong to a Yacht Club where we pay 1,100 CDN/year for everything. Launch/Haulout/Slip -year long access to a beautiful clubhouse on Lake Ontario. We have a fully funcional clubhouse with showers, kitchen, BBQ's etc. Social events yearly. All that is asked is that each members contributes 15 working hours per year. It is a great deal...We love it..Not only that, but we also get free reciprocal nights at other Yacht Clubs on Lake Ontario, many of which have pools for the kids.  

That is cheap as hell! We pay arounf $10 per foot for a short hull.  

Where is that, Waffle? I had my boat hauled at Brewers, Stanford for more than that. Also, does anyone know of a yard that allows DIY over the winter and has a reasonable winter rate on the Long Island Sound?  

OYC At the Olcott YC we pay $16 per foot for haulout and storage. If one pays four years in advance, the 5th is free. Owner must be present and assist. Bottom wash is up to owner, but power washer is supplied.  

HukilauMike

Dan, try Branford Goodsell Point Marina in Branford allows DIY work. In fact, they insist on it, as they don't really provide any services except hauling, pressure washing, mast storage and launching. I pay about $800 to have my Oday 23 hauled, pressure washed and blocked for the winter, including having the mast removed and stored separately under wraps. Spring launch and mast setup is included.  

Branford Mike:Thanks for the info. It looks like a pretty marina, too! I just wish it was closer to my home :{But perhaps it gives me a good excuse for a nice, long, end of season sail!  

I think I have all of you beat..... Tahoe Keys Marina.$20/Ft per lift.Yes, that is $1200 round trip for a 30' boat.Criminal.Tim  

Tim My 34 cost $550 and the 5th year is free. That is round trip with 6 months on the hard.  

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What Does It Cost To Own A Sailboat?

• October 13, 2022

There’s a lot of hyperbole and exaggeration surrounding the actual cost of sailboat ownership. Some of it is bluster, but some of it is very real – there can be substantial costs to owning a sailboat. And if you’re thinking about getting a boat, budgeting for one is critical. It’s no fun owning a boat you can’t afford to use.

Sailboats come in unlimited sizes and conditions, so there is no one-size-fits-all number that applies to every boat. Storing a Laser in your backyard will obviously cost less than campaigning a forty-foot race boat all over the coast, or owning a fifty-foot blue water cruiser. But there are common costs for any sailboat, and for that we can give you some guidelines that can help you figure out what you need to budget.

To do this, we’ll give a list of expense categories a boat might incur, and some guidelines for how they’re different by size, type and use of the boat.

Size Matters

Size matters a lot. Many ongoing boat services and needs are charged by the foot, so a bigger boat is more expensive for things like slip rentals, haul outs, dry storage, painting, covering, and so on. If your boat is small enough, you can skip some of these services completely, or do them yourself with little effort.

But larger size also limits some services and creates other expenses. For example, you can put a twenty-two foot boat on a trailer to move it, but boats much larger that 28 feet often need to be moved by a special truck. Once you get into the 40′ range and above, moving the boat over land may be impossible for many boats, and possible for others only by doing expensive things like removing the keel.

Small sailboats can eliminate major expenses. That trailerable twenty-two footer can live in your driveway or a parking lot off the water, cutting your storage costs to near zero. And small boats you can haul yourself and step the rig without a yard’s help.

Age and Condition Matter in Different Ways

An important takeaway from the size discussion is that the by-the-foot expenses aren’t affected by the price or age of your boat. There’s also no break for an old, inexpensive boat compared to a new one. The slip rental for a forty-footer is the same whether it’s a 30-year-old project boat or a brand new sailboat at 100 times the cost.

New boats are expensive, and there’s an immediate drop in value the second it becomes a used boat. Lightly used boats are often a good value, but are still not cheap. But new sailboats and lightly used boats take less work. You won’t be restoring gelcoat, rebuilding engines, or replacing worn out cushions.

Used sailboats have a lower upfront purchase price, but you can expect to spend an additional 10-20% of that price on refits and updates in the first few seasons. Newer boats typically just need bottom paint, cleaning and waxing, and routine maintenance.

When looking at the total cost to own a sailboat, factor in the extra work you’ll need on an older, less expensive boat versus a newer boat in better shape. There are good options on both ends of the price and age spectrum, but pay close attention to expenses fixed for your size and what you must do to bring the boat into acceptable condition.

General Ownership Costs

Every sailboat from an Optimist pram up to a biggest yachts have ongoing ownership costs. They are inescapable, but you can plan for them and minimize some costs. Smaller boats are cheaper, and the relationship of size to costs is not linear. The complexity of the design combined with how you use it affects your overall costs of owning a sailboat.

The sail inventory on a heavily raced Transpac 52 costs a lot more than a 52 foot cruising boat that needs new sails every 5-10 years. But the race boat won’t have complex household systems, and you can spend a lot of money fixing and replacing water makers and air conditioning.

Every boat needs a place to live when it’s not in use. In the water, this is a slip in a marina or yacht club, or a mooring. Trailerable boats and dinghies can often duck this expense. But if you need storage near the water it will cost you each summer for rack or parking lot space.

The costs of slips and moorings varies by geography, and different regions still have much local variation. Slips in seasonal areas like New England are often priced and rented for the entire summer season, with different contracts for off-season storage. Year round sailing areas like Florida rent slips monthly.

Close access to open water is always more expensive than marinas up river and bays where you need to travel a couple of hours before you hit the open. This isn’t a bad thing for smaller sailboats which don’t travel far and cruise locally. But there is a substantial price difference between a slip in Jamestown or Newport, RI near the bay entrance and one ten miles from the ocean.

Sample Pricing, Seasonal Sailboat Storage:

• Mooring in Jamestown, RI: $100.00/ft.
• Mooring in East Greenwich, RI: $65.00/ft.
• Slip in East Greenwich, RI: $123.00 to $155.00/ft.

Sailors in temperature climates with limited sailing seasons also have to plan for winter storage. You’ll need to haul out and wash the bottom, then block and cover the boat for the winter.

Maintenance

Because a boat operates in a hostile environment, the systems are always under attack from water, salt, moisture, and corrosion. Everything from refrigeration to roller furling needs care, cleaning, and maintenance. You can and should do some if this yourself, but if you hire someone, it may cost you anywhere from $50 to $150 per hour, depending on the skills needed for the task and local pricing.

Engines and generators need periodic servicing, as do winches, windlasses and other moving parts. Routine annual services may include bottom painting, replacing zincs, anti-fouling propellers, and seasonal commissioning.

Several times a summer you’ll need to give your boat a good cleaning to keep her shine, and at least one coat of wax and a buffing in the spring. Hiring someone may cost you from $15 to $40 per foot, depending on the work needed.

Regular cleaning after use cuts down buildup and staining, but boat owners on moorings may struggle with this since they don’t have easy access to fresh water for wash downs.

Sail costs depend on how you plan to sail your boat. This is generally the largest varying cost to own a sailboat. Casual weekend sailors may buy one suit of sails and use it for years, well past the point where racing sailors would tear their hair out in frustration from bad sail shape. Racers may buy new sails every year, or even more than one suit at the highest levels of the sport.

Your choice of sailcloth and construction affects sail cost; a high tech load-path racing sail may cost several times as much as a basic Dacron sail. That racing sail makes no sense for a family cruiser on an older boat, but a competitive racing program may inexpensive delivery sails to spare the expensive racing sails between events.

Racing competitively takes the biggest sail budget, casual cruising has the lowest. Sail expenses are discretionary, to a point. You need at least one suit of workable sails for every boat, but the rest is all about your plans expectations.

A class-legal sail for a small dinghy like a Laser cost $600-$700, but you can buy a practice sail you can’t race with for a fraction of that. A carbon fiber load-path laminate sail for a forty-foot race boat can run $5,000 to $8,000. Sail prices increase rapidly with size.

Budget a little for sail maintenance and repairs, too. Especially if you plan to keep your sails for a while. Proper cleaning and storage will extend their life, as will an annual inspection by your sailmaker for weak spots, chafe, and loose stitching.

You can save some serious money buying used, high-quality sails here on Sailtrader. Whether you’re looking for practice sails, delivery sails, or a suit for club racing, you don’t have to always buy new to get a good sail with some life in it.

Sailboat Insurance

Most marinas require liability insurance as part of the storage contract. Even if they don’t, it’s not a bad idea to carry it, even if your own sailboat isn’t expensive. You may find yourself targeted to pay thousands of dollars in repair bills to the boats if your boat damages other boats.

If you take out a boat loan, a hull policy on your boat is mandatory. Even if you pay cash, it may be worth insuring a newer, more expensive boat.

Liability policies are much cheaper, maybe only a few hundred dollars depending on where you sail. A hull policy will vary with the value of your boat, and older, less expensive boats may not be worth insuring since the premiums can be quite high.

Making Your Boat Budget

If there are two words to describe the cost of owning a sailboat, they’d be “wildly variable.” It’s quite difficult to know all the factors for your specific boat and how you will use it. What you can do is estimated. Once you’ve decided on the type of boat you want, you can start combing the web and making phone calls to get hard numbers. This is best to do before you buy, so you know what you’re getting into.

There is also a rule of thumb to get you started. Like every boat’s cost, it’s affected by how you use the boat and its condition. For newer boats you don’t plan to race, plan at least 10% of the purchase price for annual maintenance and operating costs. Older boats estimate closer to 20%, since the per foot costs are fixed. If you can’t cover that much annually, then consider a smaller boat.

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• Trawler Forum
• General Discussion

Estimated annual cost to maintain a 40 ft boat

• Thread starter Jon gaare
• Start date Mar 6, 2020
• Mar 6, 2020

Hi all - I’m new to the forum -I’m about to pull the trigger on a 40 ft boat and looking for advise. Wife and I are looking forward to warmer water in the winter months. Being from the south shore of Long Island - winters have become a drag. I have a few questions to start... Can anyone give me an annual estimated cost to maintain a 40 ft vessel here on Long Island during the summer months only. I’m expecting to pay $100 per ft to dock .can I expect other costs? What can I expect the annual cost of maintenance for a single engine diesel and gen set etc ... per year. What is an average insurance annual premium for a replacement value of $300 k ? Thank you in advance Jon  

Moderator Emeritus

Welcome aboard. As to the costs, it can and will vary dramatically depending on your skills. Do you do your own work or just write a check? Also what shape is the boat in? If it is bristol, the costs will be less that something in lesser condition. What are your personal requirements for upkeep? Are you a fanatic about maintenance or is ok fine with you? As to the insurance, I would contact some companies since your rates will be different than mine even on the same boat. We have Boat/US insurance and have good success with them for many years.  

Jon gaare said: Hi all - I’m new to the forum -I’m about to pull the trigger on a 40 ft boat and looking for advise. Wife and I are looking forward to warmer water in the winter months. Being from the south shore of Long Island - winters have become a drag. I have a few questions to start... Can anyone give me an annual estimated cost to maintain a 40 ft vessel here on Long Island during the summer months only. I’m expecting to pay $100 per ft to dock .can I expect other costs? What can I expect the annual cost of maintenance for a single engine diesel and gen set etc ... per year. What is an average insurance annual premium for a replacement value of $300 k ? Thank you in advance Jon Click to expand...

I can do a lot of the mechanical - oil / filters / - the boat is Bristol all systems new or rebuilt I’m a boat owner for 40 years now - Smaller boats than 40 ft $2500 per year ins ? What is your premium - I know it depends on ins co and what is quoted- to me will be different than you - just looking for rough #’s as a reference Maintenance wise again if you have a 40 or so ft yacht - give me an idea of what your annual maintenance costs - I’m looking to find out what everyone is paying - just to get an idea Tnx Jon  

Simple, plan this to cost you your bones, your flesh and the little blood drops that will be left, times 10 and this will be your actual cost. More seriously this will depends on your boat current state and what you plan to do with it and how much anal you will be on the level of maintenance. With time you will want to change things to make it yours and cost will build up. L  

firehoser75

firehoser75 said: Hi Jon, Good luck with your new boat. I know what you are trying to do here, but it really is almost like asking "how long is a rope?" There are sooo many variables. When I bought Pilitak, the surveyor stated that he had never surveyed a boat in this good of condition for being 17 years old. His list was relatively short (deficiencies). However, we spent about $25,000 in the first year on repairs, upgrades, changes, etc. On top of that, I did about 50% of the work myself. No electronics were changed by the way. That did not include moorage, fuel, insurance, etc. Costs depend greatly on how much you can or are willing to do yourself, local rates for labour, local moorage rates (can vary widely by area), local insurance costs (can vary by area), etc. Not trying to dodge here, just saying. You would be best to spend the time to determine what local costs would be for insurance, moorage, haulout, fuel, etc. Some say a rough figure would be 10% of the boat's cost annually! From my experience, that may not be as far off as you might think. I just don't see how your costs using that model would be $30,000 per year, and someone with a $90,000 boat would only see costs of $9,000? For example, I pay over $6,000 per year for moorage alone, so $9,000 total would be way, way low Hope that helps a bit, Click to expand...

FoxtrotCharlie

We have a 42' and insurance (BoatUS runs about $1,300/yr. We pay $400/mo for 50' covered slip. That's the 'fixed costs'.  

Insurance premium is partly boat, partly you,part docking location, etc. For this, and anything else you can tie down, get quotes.  

We live on the water so our dockage is zero. Our insurance runs about $800 per year. Like I said, my costs will be different than yours. I do almost all my own maintenance but I like to work on my boat so I buy lots of things for it and replace a lot of things that are really ok but I just want something different. It almost always will be apples and oranges when you ask someone else what their boat costs them.  

Lou_tribal said: 6 grands per year for a moorage??? Jeezzzzz and I was thinking my new marina was expensive when at around 2000 for 6 month!!! L Click to expand...

In Washington state, my 42 foot boat costs about $575 per month in moorage, $2100 per year in insurance. Oil changes (two annually) between $1500 each (hiring the work) and about $ 350 each (doing it myself). This doesn’t include anything for upgrades, component replacements, fuel, and some guest moorage while cruising.  

Spinner has a very nice boat with no deferred maintenance. However I’m sure she will agree that once a year there is a $1500 surprise but we just don’t know what it will be until it happens. This year for me it’s a heat pump. Who knows what next year. Spinner how much do you pay a year for zink and diver?  

Pete Meisinger

On the Great Lakes with a 36 foot trawler in which the owner does most of his own maintenance I tell people it will cost you $500 per month to own the boat, it will be twice that amount for the first year or two until you get the boat set up the way you want it. For me, this includes dockage, insurance maintenance (normal) , and fuel. This assumes that you are not making the dreaded "boat payments". Really, the only thing which effects this cost is the extra money you spend on vacation. Pricey restaurants, souvenirs, expensive steaks instead of burgers, etc. These expenses are easily controlled if you care to control them. We generally go "first class" about half the time on the water. We do like a pool and hot tub every so often. Laundry facilities,showers, etc., are nice every few days. We generally mix time on the hook with time at marinas about half and half. That being said, I expect a 40 foot boat will add 10 or 15% to that estimate. I expect that East Coast cruising will add another 25% to the estimate. You should still be way under $1,000 per month (One basic boating unit). Of course, EVERYTHING goes out the window when you blow an engine, crunch a tranny, or find a leaky fuel tank. Best to be ready for such things with either a good cash reserve or strong credit. pete  

firehoser75 said: Yeah, I hear ya Lou!!! Welcome to beautiful BC! Home of "everything costs more". Click to expand...

tiltrider1 said: Spinner has a very nice boat with no deferred maintenance. However I’m sure she will agree that once a year there is a $1500 surprise but we just don’t know what it will be until it happens. This year for me it’s a heat pump. Who knows what next year. Spinner how much do you pay a year for zink and diver? Click to expand...

OP post is a bit confusing. On one hand, he's asking about dock /mooring in Long Island. On the other hand, he's talking a about warmer weather south. Florida? Bahamas? Insurance and docking will vary Insurance - 1.0% to 2.0% of hull value per year is the most common numbers I see in places like California and Florida. Maybe less if you'll accept a very high deductible. But figure $4k/year. Maybe you have some money leftover. Moorage. Depends on where you dock. Transient slips getting down to Florida/Bahamas will likely run you in the $2/ft/nt range. Maybe less in some areas (there are anchorages and occasional free municipal tie-up). But maybe more in other areas. Seems like most areas that are at all popular to keep a boat are in the $500/mo range, you can figure a good $6k/yr, perhaps more if you're using transient slips. Less if you haul in the winter in LI at a reduced rate. Every 2-3 years you will need to haul and have the bottom painted. $3k. Plus you will need the bottom dived on ever 6-8 weeks (more in Florida) at about $100/pop. Call it $600-$800 per year. So the bottom work averages to around $2k/year. Before maintenance, upgrades, fuel, or anything else, you're probably at $12k/yr. At least that's my over/under guess  

Jon gaare said: I can do a lot of the mechanical - oil / filters / - the boat is Bristol all systems new or rebuilt I’m a boat owner for 40 years now - Smaller boats than 40 ft $2500 per year ins ? What is your premium - I know it depends on ins co and what is quoted- to me will be different than you - just looking for rough #’s as a reference Maintenance wise again if you have a 40 or so ft yacht - give me an idea of what your annual maintenance costs - I’m looking to find out what everyone is paying - just to get an idea Tnx Jon Click to expand...

Portage_Bay

In the PNW, non urban area. 42 ft is $6,700 moorage and insurance per year before I do any maintenance or leave the dock. At purchase I budgeted $600 per month for maintenance and upgrades. So far it's been more than that.  

• Mar 7, 2020

Senior Member

Average: You do the easy non technical maintenance. Have technical maintenance/repairs done professionally. Average cost: $600-$1k per month averaged, based on age since refit & complexity. (Unused balance saved for the expensive needed repair/upgrade months.) Imperial evidence of personal boats owned, as well as friends being boat owners. It certainly be done for less if you do more work your self and take out the middle man when acquiring equipment. .  

The biggest hassle is most boats were not built with maint in mind. Therefore you must research what is a low maint boat , hull, deck, engine and outfitting before you decide to purchase the beast. As well as how it will be maintained, DIY or a yard. Examples , lobster boats can swop out their engine overnight , no big deal. Fuel tanks made of Monel don't seem to die . RV heads are almost zero maint. A proper sump on the fuel tank ends fuel problems , forever. A GRP hull and deck and PH do not have the complications of rotten buried plywood cores. There are many ways to build a boat only a few are with an eye to low , easy maint, learn what they are, first . Good hunting.  

FF said: The biggest hassle is most boats were not built with maint in mind. Therefore you must research what is a low maint boat , hull, deck, engine and outfitting before you decide to purchase the beast. As well as how it will be maintained, DIY or a yard. Examples , lobster boats can swop out their engine overnight , no big deal. Fuel tanks made of Monel don't seem to die . RV heads are almost zero maint. A proper sump on the fuel tank ends fuel problems , forever. A GRP hull and deck and PH do not have the complications of rotten buried plywood cores. There are many ways to build a boat only a few are with an eye to low , easy maint, learn what they are, first . Good hunting. Click to expand...

I live on Long Island so I’m familiar with local pricing. A 40’ boat will cost you about 12-15k per year. Not including any repair or unusual maintenance. Fuel is a total variable.  

Master and Commander

My February 2020 boatyard bill consisted largely (73%) of labor. The work included diagnoses, replacements of batteries, steering cylinder, and charger/inverter, as well as doing engine and paint maintenance (steel boat) and bottom treatment.  

At 42' you know what your slip fees are in your area. The rule of thumb of 10% of the boats value would with YOU doing the basic maintaince your self. If you were to pay for every thing you should expect 20% of the boats value. I know that may sound high, but it is reality of owning a midsize boat if you want to keep everything done in the same condition you would want to buy it. I am sure you have heard the old phrase "pay me now or pay later".  

10% makes no sense. a $ 50,000 40' boat is not $5000.00 a year. a 1,000,000.00 40' boat is not $ 100,000 a year  

Jon, A general rule of thumb is that a boat costs about ten percent of its purchase price per year to run it. We had a 39 foot ketch in Maine where we haul every year but I own the mooring she is on in the summer. We do not do marinas but prefer to anchor. I have reviewed records for a number of the past twenty one years and have calculated an average cost of about twelve thousand dollars a year. I would estimate that the costs around Long Island Sound and south will be more than that but it gives you an idea. We now have a Krogen 42 and I am budgeting 20K for the year.  

Hospitality Officer

firehoser75 said: Hi Jon, Some say a rough figure would be 10% of the boat's cost annually! From my experience, that may not be as far off as you might think. IMHO, Over about 25 years, I would say that's about spot on. Some years more things go wrong, and some years all's well. Mind you our mooring fees are very high compared to the figures being bandied about here. Click to expand...

Thank you all Got a range to work from Hoping ? for the best and trying to prepare for 3x’s the worse. Looking to stay on a hook more than pay at marinas. And to clarify I will be here in NY for the first year of ownership - I want to run the boat local to get acclimated for the first year and will be putting her on the hard for the first winter here in NY I’m sure there will be “stuff” to tend too after running around the first summer and will have the winter to remedy any issues - thank you again Jon  

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Bowfin gets day in sun with Highland Park's Mr. Mud tournament next week | Fishing Roundup

If you can’t beat ’em, hook ’em.

That’s the theme next week at Highland Park Fish Camp , where they’re staging another Mr. Mud fishing tournament in and around the St. Johns. 

Rarely does a name better fit a fish. 

The mudfish is formally known as the bowfin but also known as the dogfish and, through Louisiana (naturally), the swamp bass.

GREAT AMERICAN READ Celebrate a fast-paced history of the Daytona 500 with new book; foreword by Richard Petty

He's a nasty after-dark predator that stalks the shallows to eat anything and everything in its path. Unfortunately, it’s also prone to sink its sharp teeth into a fishing lure and eventually disappoint the angler who fought like hell only to find out he’s latched onto something so worthless. And not exactly handsome, at that.

Worth less , but not worth nothing. At least not next Saturday (Sept. 7) at Highland Park in DeLand, the launch site for the Mr. Mud. Entry fee is $10 and first prize is $1,000.

Unlike most fishing tournaments, where the rules sheet is longer than Thanksgiving with the in-laws, this one is simple: Biggest mudfish wins. According to the FWC, Florida’s state record is 19 pounds. 

So, not worthless, but still ugly. 

And quite creepy, by fish standards, and in a prehistoric kind of way. They’re thought to be among the oldest creatures in the sea, dating back some 250 million years — give or take, you know.

A relic, of sorts, but more specifically, they’re what the biologists call a relict , defined as a “remnant of what was once a diverse and widespread population.”

Want more creepy? Mudfish are what’s called “bimodal breathers” who can breathe both water and air. Unlike you, they don’t fill their gas bladder with garlic wings, but through a duct connected from the foregut (you have one too, so don’t judge) to the gas bladder.

Throw Mr. Ugly in a toxic canal, he’ll just come up for a look-see, gulp in some air, and go back to the hunt. 

One final bit of lovely trivia for these nuisance beasts: They can live upward of 30-some years.

All of that aside, the bowfin gets its day in the sun next Saturday at Highland Park, beginning at first safe light until 2 p.m. Lots of food options and live music at the park from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. 

And if you know fishing, you know this is the day you aim for the fat creeper and pull up one largemouth bass after another. 

Halifax/Indian River

Art Mowery fishes the intracoastal throughout Southeast Volusia (SeVo!), usually targeting trout. One day last week, he instead found a school of drum taking off after his pigfish. “Never had that happen before,” Art says. “I took some large shrimp out the next day and couldn’t find them.”

He also says he’s having an impossible time keeping the jacks off his mullet.

As well chronicled, if not chronicled well, this is the time of year for mangrove snapper in the river. Generally, you’ll catch them in the 10-inch range, which conveniently happens to be their legal minimum. This provides a serviceable filet, if not a plateful. Want bigger?

“Mud minnows and small finger mullet might not get you as many bites but will get you the bigger fish,” says Capt. Jeff Patterson ( Pole Dancer charter ). “The jetties and mangrove shorelines in the river have been hot as long as the tide is moving.”

Capt. Jeff says he’s also been finding a bonus flounder or two when fishing the strands of mangroves. “Redfish, tarpon and snook are biting pretty good at the inlet but I feel like it’s going to get even better.”

Capt. Billy Pettigrew ( RedfishTails.com ) confirms the flounder bite and says “snook are on fire.”

“I’m catching them shallow and deep, from Flagler to Port Orange.”

Large shrimp and finger mullet, he recommends.

Also, Capt. Billy will be the guest speaker next Thursday (Sept. 5) at the Flagler Sport Fishing Club. Topic: Tournament prep. Meetings are at the Club 51/Social Club at 51 Old Kings Road. More info: FlaglerSportFishing.com. It’s free and open to all, by the way.

Chris Mansfield ( Reel Healin’ Outdoors) had a beautiful day along the surfline this past week. The haul wasn’t as nice as the conditions, but still not bad — some whiting and a redfish that checked in at just under 19 inches, all caught in the first trough.

Chris is big on Fishbites and Sputnik sinkers from The Sinker Guy.

The area’s “Best Fishing Charter,” according to our Community Choice Awards, is the Sea Spirit out of Ponce Inlet, with Capt. Nic Stephens at the helm.

Recent returns to the docks have brought legal snapper — mangroves and vermillions — along with decent catches of amberjack. 

Capt. Mike Kyp ( Fireline Charters ) provided a nice surprise for local angler Phillip Moore: A 65-pound cobia that took a hunk of cutbait off the ocean floor. The 20-minute fight included the fun of watching the cobia swim from bow to stern and around again.

The marine forecast for this holiday weekend looks good through the inlet and out beyond. An east wind is the only potential negative, except for those who consider it a positive, of course. 

Don McCormick says the trolling bite has been solid through Lakes Woodruff and Dexter. “I went twice and caught 20+ specks both times,” he says. 

Capt. Bryn Adams (Highland Park) confirms the speck bite and says her folks are also finding bass at the mouth of Woodruff, mostly on artificials.

Hook, line and clicker: Send us your fish pics

We want to see your most recent catch. Email your fish photos to [email protected].

Please include first and last name of angler(s), as well as type of fish (we're occasionally stumped). 

Do I need a fishing license?

You can find all the license info, including exemptions, on Florida's Fish and Wildlife Commission website: MyFWC.com. But the basics are: No: If you're 65 or older, 15 or younger, you don't need a license. “ Probably” Not: If you're fishing with a licensed guide or charter boat, both of which often purchase commercial licenses that cover their customers. Yes: Most everyone else, including visitors from other states. Yes: Even if you're a shore-based angler (shoreline, dock, pier, bridge, etc.), and even if fishing with a shore-based guide.  However: The shore-based license is free . . . But: You still need to register for that free license.

Where do I get a license and what does it cost?

Many bait shops sell licenses, as do the bigger retailers (Bass, Dick's, Walmart, etc.).  Florida's FWC uses a third-party site for buying or renewing fishing licenses:  GoOutdoorsFlorida.com. The cost : $17 for an annual license. Don't forget: Whether you're fishing fresh or saltwater, you need the specific license. Freshwater and saltwater licenses are both $17 annually.

I’m here on vacation, do I need a license?

Yes you do, and they're also available at GoOutdoorsFlorida.com or certain bait shops and big retailers. Cost: $17 for three days, $30 for seven days, $47 for a year. Also: Non-residents need to purchase that license even if they're just fishing from shoreline or shore-based structures. (Florida residents need that license, too, but they're free.)

• Articles and Guides

10 Steps to Launch Your Boat Safely from a Trailer

30th aug 2024 by lenny rudow.

The best thing about a trailer boat is being able to haul it around and explore new waters, but in order to do so, you’ll first have to learn how to launch your boat from a trailer. And naturally, you’ll want to do it safely, smoothly, and quickly. Commit these 10 steps to memory and then go get some real-world practice, and the next time you back down that ramp you’ll look like a pro.

1. Prep Your Rig for Safe Travel

Step one in launching your boat is getting it to the ramp in the first place, so do a safety check before hitting the road and make sure the bow and stern are both sufficiently secured, your trailer lights are plugged in and working, and the hitch, safety chains, and emergency brake line (if your rig has one) are all properly attached. Allow for extra braking distance when you’re on the road and try to minimize abrupt starts and stops that could stress the tie-downs and attachment points.

Step number one is getting your boat to the launch ramp safely and securely. Always do a full safety check before you hit the road.

2. Master Trailer Handling in a Safe Space

Practice trailering and especially backing before you try to launch. For your first few outings, instead of trailering to the launch ramp, head for an empty parking lot. Then set out some traffic cones (orange life jackets will work in a pinch) to outline a “ramp.” Pull your boat forward and then back it through the markers several times from different angles. This will allow you to experience how the tow vehicle and trailer interact in a stress-free environment without a bunch of gawkers watching as you try to back down the ramp. 

3. Pre-launch Preparation Etiquette

When you’re ready for the real thing and you arrive at the launch, pull out of the way of the entrance and the ramp to prep the boat. This process will take five or 10 minutes, and it’s considered good etiquette to do the prep while you’re out of everyone else’s way. Park right in front of the ramp while you get ready and someone’s likely to start honking their horn at you.

To prep the boat for launch, remove the transom strap(s), put your dock lines on the cleats, put in the drain plug (PUT IN THE DRAIN PLUG!), and load up all your coolers and gear from the tow vehicle. Note: You’ll be tempted to put that stuff directly into the boat when you leave your house, but this is a bad move. Gear gets jostled around quite a bit in a boat being trailered down the road and it’s not uncommon to find things broken, spilled, or missing entirely if you leave them in the boat for the ride.

At this point do not remove the bow attachment points. You’ve probably seen videos or pictures of boats sitting on concrete boat ramps, and prematurely releasing the bow is often how these disasters happen.

Where you’ll want to stop will vary by different boat ramps, different rigs, and tide level. That said, you want most but not all of the boat floating.

4. Positioning for Easy Backing Up

Pull into position to back the trailer and boat down the ramp. How you position yourself will determine whether you can back down more or less straight (which is relatively easy) or if you’ll have to turn the trailer while backing up to get it aligned (which is a lot harder). So, make it easy on yourself. Loop down close to the ramp then pull up and away from it until the tow vehicle and boat are lined up straight or you’ve pulled up as far as you can to get them as close to straight as possible.

5. Manage Trailer Lights for Safety

If your trailer has lights with incandescent bulbs, shift into park, apply the parking brake, walk to the back of your vehicle, and pull out the trailer plug. Otherwise, when you back the trailer lights into the water and press the brake pedal, the cool water can cause the heated bulbs to burst. (If your trailer has LED lights this isn’t a problem, and you can skip this step).

When the boat reaches the water have your assistant grab the mooring line(s).

6. Execute a Smooth Ramp Backing

Now it’s time to back down the ramp. Hopefully that practice will pay off and you can smoothly roll down the ramp in reverse. Try to go backwards as straight as possible while making small course corrections, and if the boat starts to slew off in one direction or the other too much to recover, pull forward and try again. 

When the back of the trailer reaches the water, an assistant should grab the mooring lines. Continue backing slowly until the back of the boat first begins to float, at which point you or your assistant can undo the bow strap and safety chain from the bow eye. Then you can continue backing until the front of the trailer is coming close to the water’s edge, if necessary, to get more of the boat floating.

Just where you’ll want to stop depends to a large degree on your specific rig, the angle of the ramp, and in areas with a tidal swing, the height of the water. Every ramp and every boat will be a little different. As a rule of thumb It’s generally best to have most but not all of the boat floating freely. That way it will stay put until you’re ready to pull it off the trailer, but will do so easily when the time comes.

7. Secure Trailer and Apply Safety Measures

Shift into park and apply the parking brake. Never fail to apply the parking brake—we’re sure you’ve seen those videos of trucks rolling down the ramp and into the water, too. For an extra measure of safety, also slide a chock behind one of the wheels.

Now we’re ready to pull the boat off the trailer. Maybe. If the water is deep enough to sufficiently float the boat without getting the tow vehicle wet you can position your helper standing on the dock, ready to give a tug on the mooring lines and pull it over to the dock. 

Have your helper move the boat down the pier and well away from the ramp, so others can use it while you park.

8. Options for Getting the Boat Off the Trailer

What about that “maybe”? Often, you’ll be unable to back down far enough to float the boat off. In this case you’ll need to board the boat, start the motor, and back it off the trailer. If you’ve backed close to the dock your helper may be able to step aboard, or on most rigs you can step on the trailer tongue and board at the bow. Or, if your helper is a seasoned boater, you may want him or her to get aboard before backing the boat into the water, and have them ready to pull the boat off. Ensure the outdrive is tilted far enough down so the water intakes are completely submerged and start the engine. Then shift into reverse while applying just enough power to pull the boat off the trailer, and bring it alongside the dock.

If your helper is a seasoned boater, you may want to have them board prior to launch and have them back the boat off the trailer under power.

9. Secure the Boat and Clear the Ramp

With the boat at the dock and secured or under the care of your helper, you’re ready to get back into the truck and park it. As you do so, if there’s a line at the ramp or others waiting to launch or retrieve, your helper should pull the boat as far down the dock as possible, move it to the outside of the dock, or move it to a “courtesy pier” if one is present. This allows other people to get their day started without having to wait for you to park your tow vehicle, walk back, and pull the boat away. If you’re launching single-handed you should move the boat out of the way of others before parking your tow vehicle.

10. Launch and Enjoy Your Boating Adventure!

Jump aboard, and get ready for a day of awesome fun aboard your boat!

Check out our guides:

Best Trailerable Sailboat Brands to Cruise or Race

Best Trailerable Trawler Brands: Pocket Cruisers to Go Anywhere

How to Transport Your Boat Four Different Ways

Written By: Lenny Rudow

With over three decades of experience in marine journalism, Lenny Rudow has contributed to dozens of boating and fishing publications and websites. Rudow lives in Annapolis, Maryland, and is currently Angler in Chief at Rudow’s FishTalk ; he is a past president of Boating Writers International (BWI), a graduate of the Westlawn School of Yacht Design, and has won numerous BWI and OWAA writing awards.

More from: Lenny Rudow

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Everything you need to know about direct London-Sydney flights – coming in 2026

A non-stop flight between London and Sydney has long been seen as the holy grail of air travel. It is a fair description too – not in the sense of a sacred cup, but in that, for as long as humanity has enjoyed the luxury of the jet engine, a direct service between these two great cities on opposite sides of the planet has been both hugely desired and out of reach.

That magic moment is finally coming, just a little later than previously hoped. 

It was announced this week that Qantas is on course for introducing non-stop Sydney/Melbourne to London flights in 2026. The launch date of 2025 was shelved because manufacturing delays mean the ultra-long-haul Airbus A350-1000 jets needed by Qantas will not be delivered until the middle of 2026.

Australia’s national carrier Qantas first declared that it was aiming to break through what might be described as the final frontier of commercial air travel back in 2017. It later named the plan, somewhat grandiosely, “Project Sunrise”. But this is not a lily that needs gilding. This is the very real promise of something that has always been beyond the scope of existing technology. And it is not just about London-to-Sydney. Direct connections between London and Melbourne – and between both Australian cities and New York – are also on the agenda.

Last year, Qantas released images of the cabins that will welcome passengers on the route’s carefully configured aircraft (more details on this below). And while a few glossy promotional photographs are not quite the same thing as wheels on the runway and pilots in the cockpit, they were evidence that “Project Sunrise” is indeed progressing.

What else do we know about these ground-breaking flights? Read on to find out.

When can we expect non-stop London-Sydney flights to come into operation?

Qantas, which had previously made vague references to a launch date of “late 2025”, has pushed that back by six months to “mid 2026”.  The airline is still waiting for the custom-built A350-1000s – 12 of them in total – that it ordered in 2022, but an issue with the fuel tanks (quite important when you’re flying 11,000 miles non-stop) has caused the delay. “The regulator has asked us to redesign the centre tank on the ultra-long-range airplane for Sunrise,” Christian Scherer, the CEO of Airbus’s commercial aircraft business, told reporters at the Singapore Airshow. “We have to redesign the centre tank, the extra fuel tank, that will allow the Sunrise mission, and that’s what explains the shift.”

Haven’t we heard the term “Project Sunrise” before?

Indeed. Qantas first used it in November 2019, when it completed a non-stop test flight between London and Sydney in 19 hours and 19 minutes . Of course, the term “Covid-19” also popped up around then, and the remarkable achievement of unbroken motion between said two cities quickly faded into relative insignificance.

But it was quite the achievement nonetheless, even with the caveat that the plane in question – a Boeing 787-9 Dreamliner – would not have been able to reach its destination in normal conditions. To ensure that it did , it was carrying only 50 people. When it landed, it had enough fuel left for a further one hour and 45 minutes of travel; a buffer that would have been exhausted had the 787-9 been filled to its standard capacity of 290 passengers.

What type of aircraft is the A350-1000?

Despite conducting its research with the Dreamliner, Qantas commissioned Airbus to help make Project Sunrise a reality. The A350-1000 is not a new plane. It had its first test flight in November 2016, and entered commercial service as part of the Qatar Airways fleet in February 2018. The existing version has a maximum range of 10,004 miles – which isn’t enough for a journey from London to Sydney without stopping on the way. Qantas’s incoming next-gen models will push the limit with that aforementioned extra fuel tank.

Will this be the world’s longest flight?

Yes. And it will break the previous record by a considerable chalk. At time of writing, the longest flight on – or, more appropriately, across – the planet is the regular service between Singapore and New York JFK operated by Singapore Airlines. This clocks in at 9,537 miles. Although flight paths can vary (more on this below), the Qantas test flight from London to Sydney was measured at 11,030 miles. A direct connection between New York and Sydney would eclipse Singapore Airlines’ current wanderings as well. Qantas also trialled this route in (October) 2019, arcing across the width of the American torso to California, then arrowing south-west across the Pacific, passing just below Hawaii en route to home soil. This particular jaunt amounted to 10,200 miles – in just over 19 hours.

How much will it cost?

Good question. As ever, the devil will be in the financial details, but travelling from London to Sydney without pausing is unlikely to be a low-cost experience. At least, not until market forces work their magic. Qantas has – not wholly unsurprisingly, when we are more than three years away from the inaugural flight, and in the midst of stubbornly uncertain times – released any prices. But the service will guarantee its economic viability – and, crucially, that the aircraft will be able to complete the journey in one go – by paring back passenger numbers. That means more space for premium travellers, and the bigger profit margins they provide.

So plenty of posh seats, then?

Indeed. Qantas initially revealed that its ULR (Ultra-Long-Range) A350-1000s will have six first-class suites, each with a separate bed, a “recliner lounge chair” and a wardrobe. These details were updated last year with the announcement that the first-class suites will have an extra-wide fixed bed, a dining table for two, and an ultra-high-definition television.

There will also be 52 business suites (the largest passenger section by meterage), each with a two-metre flatbed, a cushioned ottoman, a dining table and a high-definition TV. There will also be a premium economy cabin of 40 seats. 

In total, the A350-1000s will carry 238 passengers – which means a 140-seat economy cabin at the other end of the plane. How much it will cost to sit there is still a secret. For reference, a standard A350-1000 can have up to 410 seats.

Doesn’t Qantas already fly non-stop between the UK and Australia?

Another good question. Yes, it does. It launched a direct link between Perth and London in March 2018. Inevitably, as with much of the Qantas schedule, it took a Covid-related sabbatical, but it has been back in the skies since May 2022.

It is a tribute to the size of the Australian landmass that a direct flight from London to the country’s only major city on the Indian Ocean is not quite the rare feat that the non-stop Heathrow-Sydney service will be. Perth’s position way out west (as the capital of Western Australia) shortens the distance to “just” 9,009 miles – and an in-air time of about 18 hours. Qantas has been able to run the route using Boeing 787s.

However, the announcement of the non-stop London-Sydney service has cast doubt over the necessity for a direct equivalent from Perth. Ben Harvey – a broadcaster and journalist for The West Australian – offered a forthright and somewhat indelicate opinion on the matter in 2022. “There’s gonna be f*** all Londoners who want to come to Perth instead of Sydney,” he ventured. “The Poms have two choices. Fly to Perth, and then go four or five hours on a flight to the east coast, because that’s where the cool stuff is. Or fly direct to the cool stuff.” Qantas’s accounts team are unlikely to phrase it so crudely, or in words which disparage Perth so unfairly, but this thought may be percolating.

What happens if the plane runs out of fuel?

It won’t. Airlines and their passengers fall out regularly over long delays, lost baggage, cancelled services and missed connections, but crashing your customers into the ground because you haven’t put enough gas in the tank is generally seen as a PR no-no. Planes always take off with a reasonable amount of “spare” fuel, in case of extreme weather, heavy head-winds, traffic congestion at the destination, or any other issues which might unduly delay an arrival – and airlines also have stop-gap airports on hand should the situation become dangerous. At present, Qantas’s standard Sydney-Heathrow flight pauses in Singapore as a matter of course. It is likely that a similar arrangement will be built into the non-stop service, in case of emergencies.

What is the effect on the human body of 20 hours in a plane?

Ah yes, the good questions keep coming. In short, being cooped up in a small space for that length of time isn’t ideal, and can only exacerbate the traditional health risks of long-haul flight (for example, the threat of deep-vein thrombosis).

Qantas has said that seats on its London-bound A350-1000s will be pitched at 33 inches in economy (and 40 inches in premium economy), which is marginally bigger than normal (the industry standard tends to be 31-32 inches). But anyone opting for such a long journey will need to pay particular attention to the usual self-help measures – regular “breaks” to stretch and walk around the cabin, plenty of water etc.

Qantas has also revealed that its next generation of London-bound planes will have “a dedicated Wellbeing Zone designed for movement, stretching and hydration” – which will make a difference. This will offer “stretch handles”, embedded in the panels, which will allow travellers to loosen their limbs after a few hours in their seats. It will also come with TV screens playing exercise routines, a water station, and a range of refreshments.

Images released last year confirmed that the Wellbeing Zone will be located between the premium economy and economy cabins – meaning that it will be accessible to all passengers.

The airline is certainly pleased with the idea – claiming that it will be the first airline to offer a dedicated wellbeing area.

“We have spent just as much time on the second half of the aircraft as we did the front,” said then Qantas CEO Alan Joyce. “In fact, we started studies on the Wellbeing Zone before any other area of the A350.”  

“The new Project Sunrise flights have given us the opportunity to re-think long-haul travel in its entirety, from aircraft cabin design to what ingredients we include on the inflight menu.” 

Of course, it is not only the impact on passengers which needs to be considered.

Asked about her experience after she had landed, Captain Helen Trennery – who piloted the test flight between London and Sydney in November 2019 – had a few suggestions regarding the safety of future ultra-long-haul flights. She said she would be comfortable with flying the non-stop London-Sydney route, but recommended that pilots only take on such jobs once a month, as “they will be very, very long flights, and fatiguing over the long term.”

Is a non-stop flight “greener” than a service with stops?

Popular wisdom has it that a non-stop flight is better for the environment, as the greatest surge of fuel use is during departure. On this basis, one take-off means a lower level of emissions than two.

However, there are concerns that a flight of the distance of London to Sydney negates any such “benefits”. Speaking to The Guardian in 2022, Dr Tony Webber – a former chief economist at Qantas, now based at the aviation school at the University of New South Wales – argued that non-stop UK-Australia flights may actually be less fuel efficient than those which pause en route.

“It’s true that reducing four movements – a take off and landing for each leg – means less fuel is burned,” he said. “But for a plane to stay in the air for 20 hours without refuelling means [it is] carrying an enormous amount of fuel. That extra fuel is extra weight, which in turn means you’ve got to burn more fuel overall to carry it. It’s a real inefficiency compared with flights that can carry less and refuel at a stop-over.”

A standard return flight to Sydney from London, with a break in Singapore, emits around 3,500kg of CO2 per passenger. Qantas says that its ULR A350-1000s will be 25 per cent more fuel-efficient than previous aircraft models.

Will the war between Russia and Ukraine make any difference?

The technical answer is “yes and no”. Shortly after the war erupted in 2022, Remco Steenbergen, the chief financial officer of Lufthansa, said that Germany’s national carrier would need to raise flight prices to offset the extra cost of flying around Russian and Ukrainian airspace to reach the Far East. Whether a similar diversion would increase the cost – but crucially, also the distance – of a direct Qantas service is unclear. The conflict would have made a difference to the 2019 test flight, which picked a path across Russia, before turning south-east over Kazakhstan, China and the Philippines. If Qantas retains its ties with Emirates and Dubai, including in its flight paths, it will be less of a problem.

As will be the case for anyone settling into economy for 20 hours, it’s a matter of “wait and see”.

A brief history of the world’s longest commercial flight

December 17 1903: 37 metres.

The Wright brothers’ changed the world 119 years ago, but, at first, only for 12 seconds.

1914: 17 miles

The planet’s first commercial air service was a short hop on a small section of Florida’s west coast, between St Petersburg and Tampa – operated by forward-thinking early aviator Tony Jannus and his “flying boat”, as “The St Petersburg-Tampa Airboat Line”. For all its rewriting of the travel rules, it was only a partial success. It lasted four months.

1934: 746 miles

Pan American Airways, founded in 1927, makes a big splash in the burgeoning world of continental air-boat travel. Using its new Sikorsky S-42 plane, it adds a record-breaking Brazilian leg – between Recife and Sao Luiz – to its overall route between Miami and Rio.

1936: 2,405 miles

Pan Am again, with the first long leap into the Pacific; a Martin M-130 flying boat, carrying just seven passengers – crossing from San Francisco to Pearl Harbour in Hawaii.

1943: 3,512 miles

Qantas enters the fray with its “Double Sunrise” service between Perth and Koggala in Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) – part of the preservation of the air-link to Britain during the war. 

1952: 3,854 miles

Pan Am re-takes the record with a service between Honolulu and Tokyo – using the state-of-the-art Boeing 377 Stratocruiser, with its twin passenger decks and pressurised cabin.

1957: 5,593 miles

Pan Am’s rival Trans World Airlines (TWA) ups the ante by flying a Lockheed L-1649A Starliner from LA to Heathrow via the North Pole, on September 29 – a trip of 5,456 miles. It ups it again on October 3 via a 5,593-mile odyssey from San Francisco to Paris.

1961: 5,677 miles

Israel’s El Al sets a new benchmark with a connection between Tel Aviv and New York.

1967: 6,253 miles

Aerolineas Argentinas goes big with a non-stop flight between Buenos Aires and Madrid.

1976: 7,417 miles

Pan Am inaugurates the first non-stop service between North America and Australia, connecting San Francisco with Sydney across 13 hours of flying time – and a lot of ocean. It will break it again, at a squeak, with a 7,488-mile Los Angeles-Sydney service in 1982. 

1991: 7,968 miles

South African Airways connects New York and Johannesburg without pausing for petrol.

December 1991: A new world

The formal dissolution of the Soviet Union opens up the skies above Russia, ushering in a new era of long-haul flights, as technological leaps continue to facilitate greater distance.

2020: 9,765 miles

Air Tahiti Nui is forced to think laterally as Covid-19 strikes. With the US border closed, it is denied its standard stop-off in Los Angeles, so starts flying its route between Papeete and Paris directly. The service only operates in the March and April, before the world grinds to a halt, but this is enough to eclipse the then- (and once again current-) world record – the Singapore Airlines odyssey between Singapore and New York (9,537 miles).

This article is kept updated with the latest information.

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Guest Essay

What the Lobstermen of Maine Tell Us About the Election

By Scott Ellsworth

Mr. Ellsworth, a historian, traveled to Maine for this essay.

Mid-July is peak season on the central Maine coast. The blueberries — the small, low-bush kind long prized by the state’s jam makers and pie bakers — had started to appear in the farmers markets, along with the first of the tomatoes. Bright orange tiger lilies burst from front yards, while Queen Anne’s lace and goldenrod line the two-lane roads. The summer light dazzles, falling in soft waves upon the spruce and cedar, and brightening the paint on both midcentury saltboxes and grander Victorian homes. It’s no wonder that people want to come here.

Stonington is, without a doubt, one of the prettiest towns on the Maine coast. Over breakfast one morning at Stonecutters Kitchen, I asked Linda Nelson, the town’s economic and community development director, how many Hallmark movies had been filmed there.

“Not enough,” she replied.

Stonington also happens to be the largest lobster port in America. Dozens of fishing boats are anchored in the harbor, while lobsters caught in nearby Blue Hill, Jericho and Isle au Haut Bays are exported across the country and, more recently, across the globe. I was told by locals that not one of the beautiful wooden homes that form Stonington’s classic picture postcard view is owned by a fishing family, who now live elsewhere on Deer Isle or over the bridge on the mainland. From the perspective of a lobsterman, many of whom have deep Maine roots, the P.F.A.s — People From Away, as locals call them — are a presence to be tolerated. The lobster fishermen and the tourists and part-time residents coexist in two separate worlds, one that is changing beneath the surface.

In a significant political year, when a small group of voters in a few places will most likely shape the answers to pivotal questions about our government, how does a community living out climate change feel to its residents? This part of Maine is represented by a Democrat in Congress, but the district, Maine’s second, has voted for Donald Trump twice by decent margins; this is one of those places where every vote can matter. Here, the punishing demands of the present, how hard everyday work is, how important costs and prices are, make the pivotal nature of this time feel very distant from politics.

During much of the past two decades, record numbers of lobsters have been caught off the Maine coast, providing a steady living for scores of lobster fishermen and their families. But a host of recent pressures has been building up that may upend a way of life that, for some, stretches back for generations. Indeed, as far as climate change goes, Maine’s lobster fishing community may well be America’s own canary in the coal mine.

“Everything has changed. Everything is changing,” said Dana Black, age 50, who is a fourth-generation fisherman and lives with his wife and two daughters over the bridge in Brooksville. “That’s all I’ve done,” he said. Mr. Black got his first job, on a lobster boat, when he was 12. By the time he was in high school he had gotten a taste of what kind of money could sometimes be made on the water. He skipped school one Friday to work as a sternman on an offshore boat, hauling lobster traps. By the time he got back on dry land on Monday, he recalled, “I had made 2,700 bucks.” Like his father, grandfather and great-grandfather before him, Mr. Black had found his calling.

It took years to scrape up enough money for a down payment on his own boat. Mr. Black also battled alcoholism, a not uncommon affliction in Maine, for years. “I used to have a beer for breakfast,” he told me. Then, one night at a Chinese restaurant 19 years ago, he drank seven suffering bastards, a mind-numbing concoction of brandy, gin, lime juice and ginger beer that was said to have been invented at the long bar at Shepheard’s Hotel in Cairo during World War II. Mr. Black had reached a turning point. The next day he quit drinking forever.

In the years since, he has seen both lean and abundant years. But none quite like now.

To begin, sea squirts are suddenly everywhere. Translucent, water-filled organisms known as tunicates and about the size of a golf ball, they can spread rapidly across the ocean floor, fouling oyster beds and leeching oxygen from the seawater. “After they die off,” Mr. Black said, “the bottom is dead.” Sea squirts were most likely imported in the bilge water of a foreign ship, and they can now thrive in the Gulf of Maine, whose water has warmed. They are not the only newcomers. Some lobstermen have recently seen scup, a type of fish that, historically, was usually found only south of Cape Cod, while there are more crabs and sharks than ever before. Lobstermen are also now trying to cope with long strands of an invasive kind of algae, known colloquially as gorilla hair, that can cover their traps.

“There is definitely something going on,” Dominic Zanke, who has fished for lobster for 34 years, said at his home in Deer Isle. “It’s kind of scary,” he added. Asked if he thought that his young daughters, should they choose to go into lobstering when they grow up, would have a future on the water, Mr. Zanke took a beat before answering. “Probably not the way that I know,” he said.

In truth, scientists have made dire predictions about the future of the lobster fishery in Maine for decades — predictions that lobstermen have routinely dismissed. And while there seems to be a soft consensus that lobsters won’t disappear from Maine anytime soon, other pressures may radically reshape the lobster industry in the near future.

Mr. Zanke’s wife, Carla Guenther, a marine scientist who serves as the chief scientist for the Maine Center for Coastal Fisheries, knows them well. “A consolidation is overdue,” she said. For generations, Maine lobstermen baited their traps with herring. But now that the herring have largely disappeared from nearby waters, not only do they often have to rely on bait from as far away as Europe and British Columbia, but prices have skyrocketed. Boxes of bait that once cost $20 can now go for $140.

Fishermen have also had to cope with a steady decline in the number of lobsters caught in Maine each year, while many of the younger fishermen, who came up during the flush times, are now saddled with heavy debt after purchasing top-of-the-line boats that can cost $1 million. In part because of climate change, Ms. Guenther believes, the number of full-time lobster fishermen in Maine may decline by as much as one-half during the next decade.

But making the connection between climate change and politics is another matter.

“I would not put politics and fishing into the same sentence,” Ginny Olsen told me. One of a handful of female lobster boat captains, and a well-known public advocate for the lobstering community, she was close mouthed about her own political leanings. When I pointed out the stark difference between the Republican and Democratic Parties on climate change, Ms. Olsen waved away its significance. “Fishermen are very — they want facts and information about their fishery, right?” she said. “They could care less about politics until it affects them on the water.” Fishermen, by and large, are practical, self-reliant and task-oriented. “For all fishermen, really,” Ms. Guenther observed, “if it’s not something they see in their hands, it’s not real.”

I would soon get a taste of what that meant. I met Mr. Black in the parking lot behind the Blue Hill Fire Station at 4 a.m. A short ride in his pickup took us to Cave Man Cove, so named because of the preponderance of older boats — and older fishermen. Fifteen minutes later we were off, the steady throb of the engines of the Cap’n Morgan, his 40-foot lobster boat, pushing us steadily south. It was still pitch black out, but in the coppery glow of the deck lights, Mr. Black’s two sternmen, Logan Leach, age 20, and Nick Amaro, 26, were already busy loading week-old menhaden, locally known as pogies, onto bait spears, to be used in the lobster traps. These were augmented, a half-hour later, by cardboard boxes filled with frozen redfish heads, imported from Iceland, that we picked up at a floating bait dock. Despite a gentle morning breeze, the Cap’n Morgan reeked to high heaven.

The sun came up at 5:15 a.m., a tangerine ball in a hazy sky. Six minutes later, in a nearly wordless onboard ballet, Mr. Black, Mr. Leach and Mr. Amaro were pulling in the first two lobster traps from the bottom of Blue Hill Bay tethered to a line attached to one of Mr. Black’s bright pink buoys: Mr. Black would gaff the buoy, feed the line into a motorized hauler and put the boat into a slow, tight circle. The line would scream through the hauler until the first trap, leaping out of the water like a dolphin, was pulled onboard by Mr. Leach, who would then open it and pass it down the rail of the boat to Mr. Amaro.

Mr. Amaro would then add fresh bait to the trap, collect any lobsters inside that were of legal size, tossing any that were too small, too large or egg-bearing females back into the water. At the same time, Mr. Leach did the same with the second trap. Both traps were then returned to the water, and we took off for the next set of traps, all to the sounds of classic rock from Bangor’s WKIT 100.3 FM — “Stephen King’s station,” Mr. Leach tells me — blaring from a speaker in the pilothouse.

The whole process took less than two minutes. Then Mr. Black pulled the boat out of the circle and took off for the next buoy.

This was repeated 175 times, without any real breaks, over the next seven hours. By the time we started back for Cave Man Cove, the three fishermen on the Cap’n Morgan had a haul of some 800 pounds of lobsters. “A good day,” Mr. Black allowed.

Though he has regularly voted Republican, Mr. Black is far from MAGA. Like many Maine Republicans, at least historically, he is fiscally conservative and no fan of big government. He believes in climate change, isn’t worried about immigration and considers the former president to be something you won’t hear Jessica Fletcher say in reruns of “Murder, She Wrote.” But it is likely, at this point, that he’ll cast his vote for Mr. Trump. “I like Trump’s decisions on stuff that he did,” Mr. Black told me. His two sternmen are, at this point, inclined to do the same, citing the rise in gas prices and the high cost of housing.

This is also something that, as November draws ever nearer, should worry Democratic strategists. For young workers like Mr. Amaro and Mr. Leach and millions of other Americans like them who are busting their humps week in and week out trying to get ahead, the price of gas, groceries and housing is perhaps the most important factor in determining their vote. Not abortion, not Gaza, not the war in Ukraine. As long as the perception that Mr. Trump will do a better job with the economy remains unchallenged, the Democrats will pay a price at the polls, perhaps a dear one.

“I care a lot about nature,” Mr. Amaro said, “but also I think about my future and how I can take care of my family, and what would benefit me, in the long term, financially. And it kind of sucks to think like that.”

Scott Ellsworth is the author of “The Secret Game: A Wartime Story of Courage, Change, and Basketball’s Lost Triumph.”

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