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- Sailboat Reviews
Kayaks for Cruising Sailboats
Sit-in kayaks offer the best overall features, inflatables fit the bill on smaller boats..
Selecting the ideal tender is like picking the ideal sailboat-it depends on what you want. Within the universe of tenders are kayaks, and the diversity within this subset is just as great, with options ranging from inexpensive inflatables to pedal-drive fishing machines. Knowing we could not possibly test every kayak on the market, we focused on familiar brand names, and tested models from each maker with the hopes of answering a simple question: what kayaks best meet the specific needs of a sailor.
We tested all of the kayaks described in this review, and they represent some of the more prominent manufacturers in this field. However, there are dozens of other designs available, and many will share similar characteristics to the ones we tested. Here are some specifications to consider when shopping.
Weight. Less weight means easier hoisting, and to some extent, easier paddling. The average inflatable boat weighs around 100 pounds, and except for the pedal kayaks, all the hulls that we tested tip the scales at less than half of that. The rigged weight of the pedal kayaks ranges from about 85 to 100 pounds, including the removable drive units, which add about 15 pounds and can be loaded separately.
Length. Greater length generally means more speed and more carrying capacity, but only if you are paddling hard enough to reach hull speed. For most cruisers, speed doesn’t matter greatly, since you are usually anchored near what you plan to explore. More length also adds more wetted surface, more weight, and storage problems.
Beam. Greater beam means more stability, but also lower speed and less efficient paddling. It is often required to offset the higher center of gravity that comes as a result of a high seat location.
Keel. Long boats with a pronounced keel track straight, and short boats with a smooth bottom, meander as you paddle. But long keels turn sluggishly, a nuisance when exploring inside marinas and mangrove mazes. In the surf, steering responsiveness is vital. Inflatables use a rubber aft skegs and hybrid hard kayaks have retractable skegs. Inexperienced paddlers often prefer kayaks that just go straight, while more experienced paddlers prefer to maintain control with minor correction strokes.
Seat height. Seat height is just as important to stability as beam. A high seat may be comfortable, but may be unstable in a beam sea or steep wake. Sit-in kayaks place your bottom just 1 to 2 inches from the keel, whereas sit-on kayaks can be 8 to 12 inches above the bottom. The higher seats make sight fishing easier, but this comes at the price of stability.
Seat comfort. Test the boat wearing the life jacket you intend to wear. A high seat back can be more comfortable, but it can interfere with some lifejackets. Paddling-specific lifejackets feature thin flotation on the back, larger armholes, and a high cut for better comfort while paddling. This is an important consideration if you foresee rough water, where a conventional lifejacket (non-inflatable) is preferred. Only one kayak we tested, the Aspire, has adjustable seat back height.
Stability. The stability rating in the adjacent table is an average of two tests: initial stability, or how far the boat will heel before it flips; and what we call functional stability, how the boat reacts to a fast turn or steep wake or wave.
Hull Material. Since our focus was on economical models, all of our rigid hull kayaks were thermo-molded polyethylene, a cheap durable material, though not as light and stiff as more expensive fiber reinforced plastic (FRP) models. Among inflatables, all the models were coated polyester (PVC), although the quality of the material varied greatly.
Paddles . Since paddles are often purchased separately, we did not include them in the test rating, but our testers did have some favorites. How you use the paddle can have a great impact on performance (see adjacent article Paddle Performance).
What We Tested
After scouring the market it became clear that the field divided itself into two main types of kayaks:
Sit-In. Traditional kayaks have a sit-in design. These offer moderate weight, great stability and strength, good weather protection, and impressive seaworthiness in experienced hands. We focused on a recreational kayaks 9-10.5 feet long rather than true sea kayaks. A ten-footer is more practical for most sailors, due to reduced length, weight, and ease of boarding from an anchored sailboat (sea kayaks tend to be skinny and tippy, making boarding from a boat difficult). We tested sit-in kayaks from Perception and Wilderness Systems.
Sit-on-top. Sit-on-top kayaks are popular among novices, because of the concern that one could get trapped inside during a capsize (a fear that is largely unfounded), and because re-boarding a sit-on kayak from the water is easier. The downside of a sit-in kayak is that your bottom is often wet. If the seat is raised, you are more exposed to cold, wet, or rough weather. Sit-on kayaks are usually slightly heavier and slower to paddle that sit-in kayaks because of the wide, flat bottom required to provide adequate stability. We tested sit-on kayaks from Ocean Kayak and Hobie.
These categories were further split into three subsets:
Inflatable kayaks. We tested inflatable kayaks from Walker Bay, Sterns, Hobie, and Advanced Elements.
Pedal kayaks. Pedal-drive systems have offered a breakthrough for explorers and anglers who like to keep their hands free. We tested pedal kayaks from Hobie and Perception.
Folding kayaks . We are still working on a full evaluation of folding kayaks and will be reporting on these in the spring. We are interested in hearing from owners. Some brands include Klepper ( www.klepperamerica.com/ ),
Long Haul ( www.longhaulfoldingkayaks.com/ ), Oru-kayak ( www.orukayak.com/ ), and others.
How We Tested
All of our tests took place on the water. Our baseline was an objective evaluation of paddling behavior on the Chesapeake Bay in both calm and choppy conditions. Although we could not test all of the boats side-by-side, we did bring the Wilderness Systems Aspire along each time as a reference point. Experienced and novice paddlers participated in all of our tests.
Observations
Durability is hard to judge, because it depends on the intended use. Most hard kayaks can bounce off river rocks and docks with only cosmetic damage. Inflatables and pedal-drive boats are generally more vulnerable to abuse, but they can put up with quite a bit of banging. We took smaller and inflatable kayaks aboard for testing, while the larger pedal boats were tested from shore. Some of the inflatables were clearly more ruggedly built than others. Here are some more specific details testers noted:
Thigh braces. Much of the stability of any kayak in waves comes from your ability to control the boat with your hips and feet. With a sit-in kayak, the feet are on sturdy foot braces and the thighs bear against padded thigh braces.
Better kayaks, such as the Aspire, include perfectly fitted thigh lifters under the seat to offer excellent control. Whitewater kayaks and slender sea kayaks are fitted with foam pads around the hips to further improve control. Recreational kayaks often lack these straps, but both inflatable and rigid kayaks can be fitted with thigh brace straps. None of the sit-on kayaks we tested were fitted with thigh braces, but in those cases, we often rigged a temporary set using rope. Thigh braces can be purchased as an accessory for $25-$45. Obviously, they can’t be used when pedaling a pedal kayak.
The Walker Bay Airis Sport became powerful and responsive when fitted with simple rope braces. You should be able to vigorously rock a kayak with your hips-this ensures effective power transfer and stability in waves. Walker Bay and Ocean Kayak offers thigh straps as accessories, and there are many aftermarket vendors.
All-day comfort. Hard kayaks generally have an edge over inflatables because they tend to feature better footrests and backrests. Sit-in or sit-on kayaks are about the same in terms of comfort, but getting the right fit is like picking a shoe. Our testers rated the Aspire and the Hobie Sport as the most comfortable overall.
Efficiency. Novice paddlers have an inefficient paddle stroke, using elbows, wrists, and arms to provide the power; for them, pedal power can be far better for covering long distances. Experienced paddlers have a more efficient stroke, using core muscles instead of arms, and can maintain a stead pace for long periods without fatigue. Pedal-powered boats must be wide and heavy for stability, and this offsets some of the efficiency of leg power. It also makes them much slower when paddled
Maneuverability. If you like nosing around the back corners of marinas and deep inside marshes, paddling is more efficient.
Inflatable Kayaks
Ranging from big-box store models that are little more than heavy-duty toys, to serious high-pressure inflatables, these may be the only practical option for smaller boats. Downsides include vulnerability to puncture and UV exposure, and the time to inflate-some of the models we tested required a daily top-off pump. Another downside is quality control.
There are countless inflatable boat factories around the world, and the quality of construction varies greatly. Our testers focused only on familiar brands with certification from the National Marine Manufacturers Association (there is an equivalent ISO standard), but we still we found a wide differences in durability and warranty coverage. A key detail that marks a better boat is the inflation PSI for the floors chambers. Higher PSI means a stiffer, and generally better-built boat.
Walker Bay Airis Series
With a long history of building practical tenders, Walker Bay has used their air-web high pressure inflatable technology to create two extremely light and suitably stiff kayaks-the Sport, and the smaller Play-that are truly in a different category from lower pressure inflatables. Both models are sit-on kayaks.
The Sport is two pounds heavier and 26 inches longer than the Play. The Play is great for surf, but the Sport has more capacity, better tracking, and strikes us as the better choice for sailors. Equipped with optional (highly recommended) thigh braces, the sit-on Sport is powerful and responsive, a pleasure to paddle even in waves and chop. A deluxe backrest is available as an option.
During on-the-water testing, it felt a little unstable and tentative, but when we added thigh braces it came alive. Its lightness and rigidity allowing it to tackle rough conditions energetically. It takes only five-minutes to set up. If you do manage to capsize, reboarding from the water was easy.
Bottom line: We found the Walker Bay Sport to be fun and light. It is our Best Choice inflatable kayak.
Stearns Sea Eagle 330
The least expensive kayak in our test, the Sea Eagle is better than what you might expect for less than $250, but it lags far behind the high-pressure inflatables in our test. Our testers found the hull when inflated to the relatively low specified PSI of 1.1 pounds was too soft to paddle efficiently. Sea Eagle has two other lines of kayaks with higher-pressure hulls, the FastTrack (3.2 psi), and the RazorLite (10 psi) that look more promising, but we have not tested these yet.
The SE 330 is stable and cheap, and with a second seat installed, it is one of the least expensive ways to get two people to shore. None of the other makers had kayaks in this price range that can do this.
Bottom line: This is our cheapest option, but its one step above a beach toy compared to the others in this category. Its not much fun to paddle and construction is light, but we imagine it will sell like hotcakes after what happened in Houston.
Advanced Elements Advanced Frame Sport Kayak
Advanced Elements has nearly a dozen models of inflatable boats to choose from, and several of them have low-pressure (2 psi) hulls stiffened with metal tubes to provide rigidity. The Sport model is one of the least expensive in its lineup.
The metal reinforcements suggested that this sit-in inflatable would be a stiff boat, but the high-density drop-stitched floor was soft, and the keel was ineffective, causing the boat to wander. (Advanced Elements has other inflatable models, like the 4.5-psi Airfusion Elite, which may perform better.)
On the plus side, it was quite stable, and the owners we interviewed were very fond of their boats. Because of the metal reinforcing elements, set-up takes longer than other inflatables (at least ten minutes) and requires a flat space.
Bottom Line: Modest performance coupled with an entry-level price makes this our Budget Buy in inflatable kayaks.
Traditional SIT-IN Kayaks
The preferred choice for serious paddlers, sit-in kayaks can cover a lot of water in the right hands. Getting the right fit is more important than it is for sit-on kayaks, so be sure to give your choice a good test run.
Perception Impulse
A longtime player in the kayak market and an innovator of the plastic kayak, Perception sells dozens of models, including tandems, stand up paddleboards, and a hybrid SUP/kayak it calls the Hi-Life. The simple, sit-in Impulse is a modestly priced recreational model. It features an impressive combination of lightness and good speed for such a short boat. It is much faster than most kayaks in its class. The seat is comfortable, and there are no extra compartments to keep clean. Perception made their name with white water kayaks, and weve bashed rocks with this one through many miles of easy rapids. Its tough. Weve also used it as tender for seven years on one of our test boats.
Bottom Line: This rugged no-nonsense kayak is our Budget Buy in the category of traditional kayaks.
Wilderness Systems Aspire 105
The retractable skeg technically places this kayak in the crossover category, bridging recreational and easy whitewater capabilities. Increased rocker and a flat bottom allow fast turning, and a full bow helps it ride over waves. When the skeg is lowered, it tracks straight.
The downsides to this model are its increased weight, and slightly slower paddling, although it is still faster than the inflatable or sit-on kayaks. The seat includes advanced adjustments not typically found in recreational kayaks (seatback height and angle, and angle/height of the seat bottom), making for true all-day comfort, and allowing positions that are comfortable for both laid-back cruising and vigorous paddling in waves.
The low seating position and flat bottom make for incredible stability, making it suitable for fishing and photography. Wilderness Systems is also known for its whitewater kayaks, which have survived countless collisions with rocks and boulders.
Bottom Line: Comfort and performance make this our Best Choice for sit-in kayaks.
Sit-on kayaks are best suited for warmer waters where the paddler doesn’t mind being a little wet, or is in and out of the water a lot-sailboat to reef to beach.
Although testers found the Frenzy from Ocean Kayaks to be too uncomfortable for long cruising and not particularly fast, it is compact and capable in rough water, particularly when fitted with thigh braces. Weve enjoyed this Frenzy playing in the surf and snorkeling reefs. Solid foot rests molded into the hull offer a firm bracing
Bottom line: Best Choice in the sit-on category.
Hobie has a wide range of models, including some cool sailing models that weve reviewed in the past. Most of their models, however, are priced well above the $800 target we set for non-pedal kayaks. The Hobie Lanai is a compact entry-level boat that benefits from Hobies wide dealer support and variety of accessories.
The stackable design would be an advantage to a sailing club looking to add to their fleet, but it offers little else that sets it above the rest. It has a cargo area with a bungee tie-down and a padded seat. We liked the simple ruggedness of the boat, but its just a little heavy compared to others in the field.
Bottom line: Recommended.
Pedal drives
Kayaks are pretty simple boats, consisting of a hull, seat, and paddles. Pedal-drive kayaks have a drive mechanism that is well engineered but complex. The Perception Pilot system resembles a sail drive powered by bicycle pedals. Reverse is a matter of peddling backwards. The Hobie Mirage drive consists of two fins that flap like penguin flippers. Both systems need a rudder to steer, and the propulsion drive can be either folded up against the hull (in the Hobie) or retracted (in the Perception) for shallow-water paddling.
Because you are using your powerful leg muscles, the miles melt away. An experienced paddler can nearly keep up with a pedal boat, but it will take practice and stamina. Pedal kayaks are particularly handy for the fishermen, photographers, bird-watchers or anyone who wants their hands free underway.
Pedal kayaks are less maneuverable than conventional types. They are also less stable, but mainly because a paddle, when extended, helps with stability.
Although these are rugged drive systems, some of the small components are vulnerable, particularly in salt water. The Hobie system, for example, features a stainless drive chain that is susceptible to corrosion in saltwater. Youll want a spare for extended cruising. Several owners we interviewed described repairs to the drives. During one of our tests a small part broke off.
We tested three pedal boats, one from Perception and two from Hobie, but only the Hobie Sport was light enough to be easily hoisted aboard.
Hobie Mirage Outback
Designed for stability, this kayak is remarkably fast under pedal power-testimony to the efficiency of the Mirage drive system. The substantial beam, weight, and elevated seating position make this a comfortable boat for all-day fishing, but we had our doubts as how it would fare in waves because of the high seat. At 95 pounds, its a noticeably more bulky compared to the Sport.
Bottom line: The best of the bunch for flat-water fishing. Recommended for the serious angler.
Hobie Mirage Sport
At 70 pounds, the Mirage Sport is still heavy, but the mass is manageable under pedal power. Maneuvering is sluggish compared to a paddle kayak, and launching and retrieving requires a few extra steps. The rudder must be folded up, the drive removed, and youll still need a halyard to haul it over the side. Hobie has introduced an upgraded seat that lifts you about three inches above the floor, but the older-style seat offers more stability. This is the most paddle-friendly of the peddle-powered range, though it is maneuvers sluggishly.
Bottom line: Recommended. Light and compact, this is the most sensible pedal drive for sailors that we tested.
Perceptions Pilot drive is basically a foot-powered sail drive. Testers found the motion natural and the stability reasonable. Although the drive is more awkward to remove, testers liked that it could be easily tipped up in shallow water, and reversing by peddling backwards was easier than shifting into reverse with the Mirage drive.
Bottom Line: This is a nifty setup for the fisherman, but a little too much boat for most average sized cruisers.
Conclusions
Personal preferences play a big role in any dinghy decision, and kayaks are no exception. Each of the kayaks that our testers recommended excel at one or more basic needs of the cruising sailor: transportation, exercise, fishing, or exploring. Some of the decisions will depend on the climate you sail in. We welcome any comments from owners on their experience with specific kayaks.
The higher-grade inflatables, especially the Airis, are delightfully light, easy to store, and paddle well in all conditions-perfect for exercise, exploring, even a bit of wave riding in warm waters. The well-designed hard kayaks, however, are more responsive and offer better durability over the long haul.
Sit-in kayaks deliver superior seaworthiness and protection for the four-season paddler who wants to keep his seat dry. Sit-on kayaks offer fun in the sun and easier reboarding from the water, should you decide to take a swim or snorkel break.
Pedal drive is great for fishing and sailors with shoulder problems, as long as you can accept the added weight, maintenance, and assembly time. In the interest of compactness and simplicity, our testers generally preferred paddle kayaks over pedal for long term cruising. A paddled kayak is also more stable in rough water.
Our testers were unanimously in favor of the sit-in style of kayak. Although you may have different preferences than they do, we recommend at least trying a conventional sit-in style paddle kayak before making buying. Certainly, other kayak designs can better meet specific needs, but its hard to argue against the overall utility of a design thats been around for more than 5,000 years.
- Choosing a Paddle and an Efficient Stroke
- Advanced Elements
- Aquabound Paddles
- Ocean Kayak
- Wilderness Systems
RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR
11 comments.
Another consideration: Safety. Sit-in kayaks are easy to climb back on if you roll over and find yourself in the water. Unless you are very athletic and have specific training, righting a swamped a sit-in kayak, bailing and climbing back in to it is nearly impossible.
Oops, I meant sit-on kayaks are easier to climb back on than sit-ins after a rollover. Sorry
Interesting article as I was looking for an inflatable kayak. Unfortunately, the recommended Walker Bay kayak seems to no longer be available. It wasn’t until I tried to find the kayak that I realized the article was from 2017 and not updated. Why are you sending out the article as if it is current information when it is 4 years old?
Yes, I agree. I’ve spent the last two hours looking for the deluxe seatback for my Airis Sport – not realizing this article was 4 years old. It’s very disappointing to find that Airis is no longer made but it explains why I was having so much trouble.
We have been cruising Mexico for 5 years with the Hobie I-11s peddle kayak/SUP, Did 10 miles today,5 back into 15kts and 1-2 foot slop. In and out of caves with the reverse drive,over submerged rocks 4” deep. Yes priced up there but also a good work platform, if you would like more info and pictures just email me. John [email protected]
We use a 14′ inflatable from AIRE as our tender. Great company and product. Terrific support also. Almost impossible to roll over, self bailing and good for 2 people with gear. Stores easily aboard our Jeaneau 42DS. Anyone looking for a kayak will do well checking with AIRE. Should have been considered for the article. Robert Fegan
For “foldable” kayaks be sure to check out Pakayak ( https://pakayak.com ). 14’2” sea kayak that breaks down into 6 pieces that nest like Russian dolls into a bag about 3.5’ x 2’ x 1.5’ They’ve had Covid related production issues are are behind on shipping, but they’re getting rave reviews. They are on the expensive side but not too far off comparable single piece sea kayaks of similar size. I ordered mine last April… it was supposed to be delivered yesterday but the snow has delayed FedEx. I plan to carrying mine aboard my Tartan 37.
One of the functions of a cruising tender is to haul people, gear, and supplies to and from the boat. Most of the kayaks in this review seem woefully inadequate for that task. I have an inflatable Sea Eagle 380 that has a reported load capacity of 750 pounds. It is very stable and its drop stitched high pressure floor is ridged enough to stand up in. With its removable hard skeg it tracks reasonably well. At about $1000 it’s not cheap, but it is well made and very versatile.
I suggest you do a separate review of inflatable kayaks. In my experience they are superior in almost every respect to rigid hull kayaks as tenders. More stable, easier to re-board if one should ever capsize, greater capacity, less potential for causing injury and damage when launching and retrieving, easier to repair if they are ever damaged, light weight, flexible enough to be stowed on deck in narrow or irregular spaces, can be deflated for compact stowing, and most are self bailing, which is an advantage if you decide to tow part of the time. I have a couple, including an Airis, which is no longer sold. Aire, Sea Eagle, Aquaglide, Advanced Elements, Innova/Gumotex are among many reputable, high quality brands.
I was planning to get a kayak – but first I got a set of inflatable SUPs – one for the captain and two (small and light kid models) for the crew. Haven’t looked back – really wonderful for fun and exploration and so, so portable. Only drawback: in a breeze you might have to kneel or sit to reduce windage (yes, like a kayak 😉
I recently shopped for an inflatable kayak to serve as an easily deployed tender. The Aire double is perhaps the best designed for this use, but in the end I bought a Maverick II from NRS (Northwest River Supply) for its quality construction and Hypalon material (now called Pennel Orca). In the sun and heat of the Sea of Cortez PVC boats are essentially disposable after two or three years. The Maverick works well and can carry a lot of supplies. I fitted a bow D ring for towing/tying up and added rope thigh braces. It is a whitewater boat and requires relatively skilled paddling and an efficient forward stroke, but a good choice for the right paddler. It is expensive but should last–I am still using a Hypalon Avon dinghy I purchased in 1987–hard to assemble and needs attention but the material is still good after all those years in Baja.
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Kayaks as a tender
- Thread starter Woody5
- Start date Dec 31, 2022
- Dec 31, 2022
Veteran Member
I’m looking to get set up with a tender to pull behind a sailboat or trawler. We have a two person 13’ sit on top plastic kayak. It is pretty much unsinkable/self bailing craft. It has no hatches. Will a boat like that tow well behind A 30 -35ft sailboat or trawler? I know it would not be good behind a fast moving tow boat. This boat is rather heavy and is difficult to car top by my self so I would like to leave it in the water most of the time.
I have a similar kayak. Never towed it but as long as you secure a good tow line I would think it would tow fine. But I don't think I would want it as a tender since it is generally a bit of a wet ride, at least in the seat of your pants. Plus be sure you don't get the towline in the prop.
- Jan 1, 2023
hollywood8118
Kayaks don't tow well, at least the three we carry don't. We have a 17' Chesapeake light craft, 16' plastic touring and a 12' fat plastic boat we use to run the dog to the beach. None of them tow over about 4 kts. without swinging side to side. Hollywood
I wonder if a detachable skeg would stabilize it.
I agree that the kayak will probably not behave well being towed in other than slow in near perfect conditions. Probably the best way (but try various other ways to test) would be to pull it up so close that a third or half is out of the water behind the boat. Place a cushion or other padding on the bow as it will occasionally hit. That is unless the bow is on board and secured which for a longer kayak and low transom or swim platform will work too. Sone sailors turn their inflatables around and drag with just the forward part of the inflatable in the water and it seems to work for some. Some normally.... depending.
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Nomad Willy
hollywood8118 said: Kayaks don't tow well, at least the three we carry don't. We have a 17' Chesapeake light craft, 16' plastic touring and a 12' fat plastic boat we use to run the dog to the beach. None of them tow over about 4 kts. without swinging side to side. Hollywood Click to expand...
psneeld said: I agree that the kayak will probably not behave well being towed in other than slow in near perfect conditions. Probably the best way (but try various other ways to test) would be to pull it up so close that a third or half is out of the water behind the boat. Place a cushion or other padding on the bow as it will occasionally hit. That is unless the bow is on board and secured which for a longer kayak and low transom or swim platform will work too. Sone sailors turn their inflatables around and drag with just the forward part of the inflatable in the water and it seems to work for some. Some normally.... depending. Click to expand...
hollywood8118 said: I don't think this is a solution either, we always lift ours to the upper deck for transport. When the kayak is lifted from one end the stability is in the center and as the beam of the kayak gets thinner the boat wants to turtle as it gets lifted. The only way to transport is on the rail or on deck. I carry them only because the Admiral likes to kayak.. to me they are a P.I.T.A. as I get stuck with dealing with the damn things. Give me a RIB with a big motor and I am a happy camper. I have found the davit that we use to lift the RIB to the upper deck is the easiest/safest way to lift the kayaks. Hollywood Click to expand...
psneeld said: I can see your point... Just thinking outside the box as usually and often get many fails to my sometimes good ideas. With a sit on top and drainage holes through, I would even try a line laced through to keep it upright. Just a stab..... Click to expand...
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Inflatable Kayak as tender?
- Thread starter calkin1
- Start date 27 Mar 2007
- 27 Mar 2007
My first time on this forum so apologies if I waffle on a bit: I'm looking to replace an old Narwhal inflatable tender. My boat is a small Varne 27 so space is limited. The Narwhal is a pain to row in anything other than flat calm. I'd like to avoid the hassles associated with an outboard motor and wondered if an inflatable kayak would be practical alternative. Boat spends most of its time tucked up on pontoon berth in a marina, therefore I don't need the tender to transfer a large amount of kit and stores, just two people to and from shore with safety gear in tidal conditions doing a stopover on a pick up mooring. Does anyone out there use a similar kayak on regular basis - if so what would you recommend? A search through the forum threads for inflatables threw up a link to 'SeaEagle'. They are based in the states, but would prefer to see something first hand UK before spending any money Thanks David.
andy_wilson
You may have some difficulty getting in and out of a kayak when in an anchorage.
Fr J Hackett
Well-known member.
Saw a chap and a large dog (relatively well behaved) transfer from boat to kayak to shore from a swinging mooring in Fowey with no problems, landing on a beach in surf might be interesting. Not shure about the durability.
Kurrawong_Kid
Came across a couple of Blue Water sailors from BC in West Scotland who used 2 kayaks instead of a dinghy. They enthused on light weight, compact size, ease of inflation, speed, no necessity for outboard and ease of "parking" ashore without an outboard. Was impressed, but have not ventured that way myself!
Nauticalia sell 2 or 3 different models. I had a squeeze of them at the last southamton boat show and was pleasantly surprised how solid they feel. But, as previously mentioned, the doubt is whether they are stable enough to clamber out of them into your boat afterwards. If I could cure that doubt, i'd definitely buy one 'cause swmbo and I are much better kayakers than rowers.
Active member
welcome to the forum! simple obvious answer is that everything has a use - after that it's a compromise. Our first 'tender' was a 'ringo', kept 2 people out of the water but got them wet, rowed (paddled) awfully and surfed in with the slightest waves depositing everyone on the beach in a pile. Getting in and out at the boat was also 'tricky'. At the other end of the scale we now have a quicksilver 310 - step in and out from bathing platform, dry in almost all conditions including surfing in and carries 5 plus some gear (cool boxes, BBQ, etc etc..........) - oh and we are 25ft........ inflatable kayaks would be a great option for a couple who wanted to use kayaks to explore creeks as well as ship to shore - limitation on boarding as already raised. overall I would get a nice (inflatable floor/keel) small tender and inflate/deflate unless you are into kayaking...
We lopoked at the latest crop of inflatable kayaks at LIBS. I was impressed, and would have splashed the 300 quid, if it was not already earmarked for Alternator Management system. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif We will be getting one, a 2 seat with extra stowage fore and aft, but it will be supplementary to the rubbadub/outboard combo, as we will never be able to fit folding bikes in it. Cant remember the name of them though.
I'd had similar thoughts as to viability of inflatable kayak. Done some sea and white water so aware of possible snags - my roll is not bombproof. However, saw someone at Arisaig a couple of years ago with one on the slip; he'd got the accessories to turn it into a sailing trimaran and was headed for Eigg with lots of camping gear. So multifunction possible but more expense and impossibly fiddly to assemble on foredeck I expect.
BlackJacksGaff
I saw some of the Sevylor range at the Beaulieu Boat Jumble. They look very impressive with inflatable tubes inside canvas outers. Unlike plastic kayaks I am assured they are pretty stable. Sevylor Colorado Quite pricey though. Would be interested to hear from anyone who has one.
That was it - Sevylor. They did look fit for purpose, well made. Dunno who has got one though.
Many thanks for the advice and comments so far. At least this is not such a crazy idea after all. If I can find something suitable then will definately opt for a kayak. If the Kayak has strops robustly fitted fore and aft then my plan would be to tie up along side and use a spare emergency boarding ladder to help make the transfer between boat and inflatable a bit more stable. Unfortunately missed the LIBS this year. Have tried using their web page to search exhibitors and products - but no success yet. I'll keep on searching!
A couple of Drascombers use Inflatable Kyaks as tenders and swear by them and I have seen other guys use them to get out to bigger boats. Drascombes have low freeboard so boarding is not a problem. Though if you are comfortable with a kyak it seems like a good plan to me. Sevylor looked good in Nauticalia where I have seen them but I am sure there must be cheaper places to get them - have a Google around and try EBay. Like you I don't have to get out to a mooring so I have a lightwieght el-cheapo fishing inflatable from EBay with longer than standard oars so it goes like a train.
markstirling
I'm planning on trying this myself for the same reasons but in a canoe not kayak (maybe thats what you meant). My only real concern is getting in and out of the canoe as it wont be as stable as a dinghy. I recon the Stearns canoes look more robust than Sevylor and appear to have higher freeboard (do you call it that on a canoe). They're also much cheaper in the USA if you can manage to personally import one. There are very cheap makes available on ebay, but I think you get what you pay for.
We just bought two Sevylor singles, the yellow ones that are flat, like a surf ski. We still have a dinghy but expect to use the canoes as you say, for exploring and hopefully for most visits ashore. Have taken them to the boat but not yet used them. If you buy, look carefully on Ebay first. We did a good deal with a company in Hereford, lowest price we could find anywhere and significant savings on paddles because we bought two.
NorthernMonkey
If you are going to use a kayak, then spending some money on good paddles is definately worth it. Don't use metal shafts, they are cold and heavy
- 29 Mar 2007
Hi David, What a coincidence - I've been looking at canoes, too! Maybe we'll have a race around Braye Harbour later this year? Rob.
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Choosing the right tender for your boat
Choosing the right tender for your boat is crucial to your safety and enjoyment while exploring the open sea with your family.
Choosing the Right Tender for Your Boat
Leaving the rat race behind and setting sail to explore the world with your family is an exciting and fulfilling journey. One of the essential aspects of this lifestyle is having the right equipment to ensure your safety, comfort, and enjoyment. One such piece of equipment is a tender or dinghy for your boat. In this article, we will discuss the various options available, their pros and cons, and how to choose the right tender for your needs.
Table of Contents
What is a tender, inflatable tenders, rigid inflatable boats (ribs), hard dinghies, folding and collapsible tenders, kayaks and paddleboards, size and weight, performance.
A tender, also known as a dinghy, is a small boat used to transport people and supplies between a larger boat and the shore. Tenders are essential for cruisers who anchor or moor their boats away from docks, as they provide a means of getting to and from land. They can also be used for various recreational activities, such as fishing, snorkeling, or exploring nearby islands and coves.
Types of Tenders
There are several types of tenders available, each with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. Let’s take a closer look at each type to help you determine which one is best suited for your needs.
Inflatable tenders are lightweight, easy to store, and relatively inexpensive. They are made from durable materials, such as PVC or Hypalon, and can be inflated and deflated as needed. Inflatable tenders come in various sizes and styles, including roll-up, air floor, and high-pressure inflatable floor models.
- Lightweight and easy to handle
- Compact when deflated, making storage simple
- Generally more affordable than other types of tenders
- Soft sides can prevent damage to the mothership when coming alongside
- Can be punctured or damaged by sharp objects
- May not perform as well in rough conditions
- Inflation and deflation can be time-consuming
Rigid Inflatable Boats (RIBs) combine the best features of inflatable tenders and hard dinghies. They have a rigid hull, usually made of fiberglass or aluminum, and inflatable tubes around the sides. This design provides excellent stability, performance, and durability while still being relatively lightweight and easy to handle.
- Excellent performance and stability in various conditions
- Durable and resistant to damage
- Can be used for a wide range of activities, including water sports
- Inflatable tubes provide a soft, forgiving surface when coming alongside the mothership
- More expensive than inflatable tenders
- Heavier and more challenging to handle than inflatable tenders
- Can be more challenging to store due to the rigid hull
Hard dinghies are made from materials such as fiberglass, aluminum, or rotomolded plastic. They are durable, stable, and can handle rough conditions better than inflatable tenders. Hard dinghies are available in various sizes and styles, including rowing dinghies, sailing dinghies, and motorized dinghies.
- Can be used for a wide range of activities, including sailing and rowing
- Low maintenance
- Can be more challenging to store due to their size and shape
- Can cause damage to the mothership when coming alongside if not handled carefully
Folding and collapsible tenders are designed to be easily stored when not in use. They can be made from various materials, including wood, aluminum, and plastic. Some models fold flat, while others have a collapsible hull that can be disassembled and reassembled as needed.
- Compact and easy to store
- Can be more durable than inflatable tenders
- Can be more expensive than other types of tenders
- Assembly and disassembly can be time-consuming
While not traditional tenders, kayaks and paddleboards can be used as an alternative means of transportation between your boat and the shore. They are lightweight, easy to store, and can be used for various recreational activities.
- Can be used for a wide range of activities, including exploring, fishing, and exercise
- Limited capacity for passengers and supplies
- May not be suitable for rough conditions
- Can be more challenging to board and disembark than traditional tenders
Factors to Consider When Choosing a Tender
When choosing a tender for your boat, there are several factors to consider, including size and weight, storage, capacity, performance, durability, and price.
The size and weight of your tender will affect its handling, storage, and performance. Consider the size of your boat and the available storage space when choosing a tender. Smaller, lighter tenders are easier to handle and store but may not perform as well in rough conditions or have the capacity to carry multiple passengers and supplies.
Consider how and where you will store your tender when not in use. Inflatable tenders and folding or collapsible tenders are the easiest to store, as they can be deflated or disassembled and stowed in a small space. Hard dinghies and RIBs may require davits or a dedicated storage area on deck.
The capacity of your tender will determine how many passengers and supplies it can carry. Consider your needs and the size of your crew when choosing a tender. If you plan to use your tender for activities such as fishing or snorkeling, you may also want to consider the available storage space for gear and equipment.
The performance of your tender will affect its ability to handle various conditions and perform tasks such as towing, water sports, or exploring. RIBs and hard dinghies generally offer the best performance, while inflatable tenders and kayaks or paddleboards may be more limited in their capabilities.
The durability of your tender is essential, as it will be exposed to various conditions and potential hazards, such as rocks, debris, and UV exposure. RIBs and hard dinghies are generally the most durable options, while inflatable tenders may be more susceptible to punctures and damage.
The price of your tender will depend on the type, size, and features you choose. Inflatable tenders are generally the most affordable option, while RIBs and hard dinghies can be more expensive. Consider your budget and the features that are most important to you when choosing a tender.
Choosing the right tender for your boat is an essential part of your cruising lifestyle. By considering factors such as size and weight, storage, capacity, performance, durability, and price, you can find the perfect tender to meet your needs and enhance your sailing adventures. Whether you choose an inflatable tender, RIB, hard dinghy, folding or collapsible tender, or even a kayak or paddleboard, the right tender will provide you with the freedom and flexibility to explore and enjoy your surroundings to the fullest.
Yachting Monthly
- Digital edition
How to use a tender safely
Chris Beeson
- January 17, 2017
Are you kitted out for tender travel? Chris Beeson reminds you what you need and why
Bring a few essentials on every tender trip and you’ll be ready for anything Credit: Colin Work
Trips in the tender are usually brief and uneventful, but some are longer.
If you decide to pack a lunch and explore upriver, you may want extra kit, like the grapnel anchor and short chain and warp we see in the bow of the tender above, but most are short ferry trips.
That being the case, it’s easy to become blasé about them but if, for whatever reason, something goes wrong, you’ll need a Plan B.
This is just a quick reminder about what you need to do to ensure you arrive safely.
Fit a long painter
A long painter leaves space for others
Dinghy docks can get very busy.
A long painter allows you to tie up your tender and let it drift out so others can do the same.
It’s also handy, as seen above, for securing the tender’s bow and stern, which makes it safer to board or disembark via the transom.
Check your tube pressure
An in-line pressure gauge costs less than £20
Pump up the tender to the correct pressure, as recommended by the manufacturer.
Few tenders are sold with a pressure gauge included but you can buy one in the chandler’s.
Don’t forget to take the pump with you too, just in case.
Dip the fuel tank
Check your fuel level before you leave
You’ve spent too long shopping, the ebb’s started and you’ve got to get half a mile upriver.
You fire up the outboard, zip off and the engine dies, leaving you with an energy-sapping row back to the boat.
Check the tank and it could save you a back-breaking hour.
Use an outboard lanyard
A lanyard could save your outboard
When transferring the outboard from boat to tender, and vice versa, the person not holding the engine grabs the lanyard.
That way, if someone drops the outboard, you can stop it sinking.
When it’s on the tender’s transom, tie the end to a strongpoint onboard.
Tighten the clamps
Spin them up tight to make sure it stays put
Once the outboard’s in position, twirl up the clamps tight.
Check them now and then during the trip to make sure the engine’s vibration hasn’t loosened them.
Outboard theft isn’t uncommon, so, if you’re leaving her for a while, padlock the clamps together.
Bring the oars
You can row your way out of most scrapes
Whether it’s the mercurial nature of outboards, or just a peaceful evening in an anchorage that you don’t want to spoil, a good pair of oars is essential.
If you can’t row a fair distance with the ones that came with your tender, buy a decent pair.
Rig the killcord
It takes seconds to fit. Don’t forget it
No-one needs reminding why this is absolutely essential.
This wriggly bit of plastic with a clip at either end is an unlikely looking lifesaver, but that’s exactly what it is.
Don’t go anywhere without it.
Stow it away from UV when not in use, it will last longer.
Bring spare fuel
Bring spare fuel and secure the can
You’ll be glad of it if you’ve got a long chug ahead.
It’s also easier to take the humble jerrycan to the petrol station.
Tie it to the thwart with a bit of gash line so it won’t bounce out if you hit a wave, and fill the tank in gulps. Don’t pour fuel or it could overflow.
Wear a lifejacket
It’s a simple enough rule, don’t break it
If you’ve never tried scrambling from the water into an inflatable tender, worse still a rigid tender, you should give it a go.
See how you get on.
Perhaps then you won’t need convincing to wear a lifejacket for every tender trip, no matter how short.
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Take a torch
Head torch or hand, it’s a must-have at night
As well as allowing you to do at night all the things you do during the day, from checking your footing to rigging the killcord or finding your elusive yacht in an anchorage, a torch also acts as an emergency nav light, which means you can see and be seen, too.
Bring a handheld VHF radio
Always have some means of two-way comms
Maybe you’ve fallen overboard, maybe you’re lost and need talking in, maybe you’re in a shop standing before a bewildering array of baked goods with ‘bread’ on your shopping list?
Whatever the reason, a VHF, or a mobile phone in a waterproof case, will get you heard.
Check your elbow room
Your crew won’t thank you for a black eye
I can’t be the only one who’s yanked the pullcord and knocked someone clean off the tube and into the drink.
Not a popular move.
Have a quick glance behind and make sure you’ve room to swing the cat.
Don’t wear your backpack
Fall in and it’s Davey Jones’s locker for you
What happens if you encounter a steep wake and end up in the oggin?
The backpack will float at first, pushing your head under, then it’ll flood and take you down.
Buy a waterproof one and put it on the sole.
Don’t overload the tender
It’s tempting, but don’t. Make a second trip
Labouring across an anchorage with an inch of freeboard is likely to end both damply and unhappily.
Make two trips: safer, simpler, probably quicker too.
With a rigid tender that can be swamped, it’s properly dangerous.
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I've made every mistake buying a sailboat tender so you don't have to
- Add to quote
Avoided mistakes 1 and 2. My hypalon Achilles with a plywood transom is now 20 years old and still going strong.
We originally had a 10ft fiberglass Whitehall style rowboat. It rowed beautifully and towed pretty well too. It wasn't great for beaching because we didn't want to scrape up the gelcoat on rocky, oyster encrusted landings. We have had an 8.5ft aluminum hulled Aquapro RIB for the past 12 years. It is a PVC boat but has held up pretty well, although the name patches and rub strike have gone sticky from UV exposure. The nice thing about RIBS is that you can bump them into the boat all you want without damage. The aluminum hull stands up well to rocky beaches, and doesn't weigh all that much. Ours is 95lb. Our next rib will be a little bigger, and have a double aluminum hull. The double hull means your feet and your groceries aren't sitting in the inevitable water that gets into the dinghy. A lockable storage area in the bow would be nice, and we will likely go hypalon this time. Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk
Arcb said: I have tried inflatables. Hated them. Can't row, can't sail. Pretty awful boats but they are stable and a big enough motor will push them along. My last one had a 9.9 merc and needed it because it was such a pig of a boat. Had a Walker Bay 8 with sail rig for a few years. Not a bad boat. It rowed fine, sailed decently and needed almost no horsepower to motor. But it was really small and you couldn't sit on the sponsoms like with a rib. Did like the boat. My favourite tenders have been canoes and sit on top kayaks. My wife's current SOT kayak is pretty good tender. We tow it or carry on deck depending on conditions. View attachment 141258 Click to expand...
All boats are compromises - and that includes dinghies. We are currently on dinghy number five in eight years of boat ownership. #1: an inflatable we had for one season. A small creature chewed it up at the seams in the garage over the winter. #2: a replacement inflatable that we sold after I found a great deal on a Fatty Knees that I loved. #3: the Fatty Knees which was reluctantly sold due to its taking up too much space on the foredeck and being incredible heavy, which led to #4: an inflatable that we kept until we decided we really preferred a hard dinghy, resulting in #5: an 8’ Walker Bay hard dinghy with inflatable tubes. If not for the tubes, we would be on dinghy #6, but they made it adequately stable so it’s a keeper. We’ve had it for 2 years now. It rows fine and is light enough for one person to easily drag onto the beach, and we don’t have to worry about it leaking or puncturing. We’ll stick with the Walker Bay unless we discover that it isn’t going to work for us for some reason I can’t currently conceive of. Not to say it won’t happen. But if it does, I’ll remind myself that all boats - including dinghies - are compromises!
Sailboat tenders are definitely compromises and there's no one-size-fits all solution. My intended audience was a first-time sailboat owner who just bought a boat in the 27-32 foot range, has limited space on deck, and isn't doing long-range cruising. That was me six years ago and I've poured more money into dinghy mistakes than any other upgrade on the boat. Just hoping my experience might save some other new boat owners some headaches. For a small cruiser like mine, with no davits and little space on deck to store a tender, the best solution I've found for a weekend warrior (mostly 3-5 day trips) is a lightweight inflatable that can be stored below decks when not in use, and quickly deploy on the foredeck when needed. Under 65 pounds, and you don't need to deploy a halyard or other mechanical device to get it over the lifelines, so easy to deploy. And because it's so easy to get on deck, you don't need to tow it for short hops between anchorages, and risk fouling your prop in the painter or it getting swamped by a passing motor yacht, just toss it on deck and lash it down. In terms of compromises, what you give up in row-ability is worth it in terms of the advantages of ease of use and stability. An electric outboard will also help here, as it is relatively lightweight and easy to mount on the dinghy. (Just don't get a donut inflatable, see initial post) But if your boat or your family or your intended cruising plans are bigger than this, this probably isn't the right compromise.
I have had a series of inflatables of all types. I think the optimal solution maybe two dinks... one to take with for small trips which can be stowed. And a RIB that has to be towed ... more of a work horse So we might use the workhorse at our mooring... leaving it when we take a short cruise... or sail for a day. Some times we don't need the dink at all... If we sail to Newport, for example, they have OldPort Launch service... no need to have the dink.
cthoops. Where did you get you tubes for the Walker Bay 8? I have one and am considering getting the tubes. The only place I have found them is to order from the UK. What about the F Rib-https://www.foldablerib.com/. I had not seen this dinghy until recently. This looks like it might be a great compromise for a hard bottom RIB. Any one have any experience with these? Foster
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COMMENTS
Update on using a rigid tandem Kayak for a tender ... But, hey, learning proper techniques will allow you to use a kayak with a sailboat. Take some good kayak classes, and discuss your goals with the instructor. When I was asked by students, I would take a few minutes to go over dock boarding/debarking, as opposed to only teaching beach ...
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ. Mar 12, 2019. #10. A kayak is a great toy to have with the boat. But, I would NEVER consider it to be a replacement for a dinghy. You won't be able to get into one from your boat with dry shoes. You won't be able to disembark at a dock. You won't be able to carry anything besides maybe some beach articles.
The kayak folds into a large suitcase that fits nicely into the lazarette or quarter-berth, takes 5 minutes to inflate and is easy to launch and retrieve by way of a long polyprop line attached to bow and stern. We've paddled round-trip to shore, about a half-mile each way, in a stiff cross breeze and it tracked nicely.
We focused on a recreational kayaks 9-10.5 feet long rather than true sea kayaks. A ten-footer is more practical for most sailors, due to reduced length, weight, and ease of boarding from an anchored sailboat (sea kayaks tend to be skinny and tippy, making boarding from a boat difficult).
Here's a list of things my dink can do that my kayaks can't: 1. transport fuel, water, or anything else that comes to the boat via jerry can; 2. pick up guests ashore, especially guests with luggage; 3. serve as a scuba diving platform (some sit-on-tops can do this) 4. transport bicycles to the dingy doc 5. hoist crab rings 6. run out a kedge ...
They are low-psi (1.5-2 more or less) and wide, very stable but also not very stiff. Finally the up-scale kayaks have drop-stitch floors which allow for high PSI's (7-14 more or less) and a much stiffer boat which supposedly paddles quite well. They cost more though, a good quality tandem can be bought for about $1000.
Messages. 12,766. Location. Sydney, Australia. Visit site. We are no experts on kayaks - and ours are hard not inflatable. I have a sit in kayak, my wife has a sit on kayak. They are great as a form of exercise and allow you to explore in much more silence than using an O/B. As a tender - not really practicable.
The answer was to add a swim platform and tie the dinghy to the boat, as though it were a yacht tied alongside a dock. Perhaps there is some kayak equivalent, perhaps even something including a clamp. Think outside the box. Writing full-time since 2014. Author-- Rigging Modern Anchors.
The hard shell dinghy with the addition of the Hypalon inflatable collar goes for $1958 for the 8-foot length, and $2598 for the 10-foot length at one retailer I checked. Fortunately, the Mac can be beached in most locations in Florida, so I can do without a dinghy and the expense for now. 26 posts. 1.
When the kayak is lifted from one end the stability is in the center and as the beam of the kayak gets thinner the boat wants to turtle as it gets lifted. The only way to transport is on the rail or on deck. I carry them only because the Admiral likes to kayak.. to me they are a P.I.T.A. as I get stuck with dealing with the damn things.
SOT kayak I tow a single or double ocean kayak, SOT, sit on top style. its a little wet, but won't sink. (and I can sail with it on the side of the lifelines) -normally rowing inflatables is very iffy in any kind of wind or current. that said, the inflatable kayak looks pretty good.
This solves the issue of boat handling: I can and have taken the kayak to places I would never take the Hunter and 20 miles in a long afternoon is quite doable. So it would also open up the possibilities for exploring. Obviously with a 19ft boat a 15' tender would have to be towed (!)
I'm looking to replace an old Narwhal inflatable tender. My boat is a small Varne 27 so space is limited. The Narwhal is a pain to row in anything other than flat calm. ... Saw a chap and a large dog (relatively well behaved) transfer from boat to kayak to shore from a swinging mooring in Fowey with no problems, landing on a beach in surf might ...
Conclusion. Choosing the right tender for your boat is an essential part of your cruising lifestyle. By considering factors such as size and weight, storage, capacity, performance, durability, and price, you can find the perfect tender to meet your needs and enhance your sailing adventures. Whether you choose an inflatable tender, RIB, hard ...
Tighten the clamps. Spin them up tight to make sure it stays put. Once the outboard's in position, twirl up the clamps tight. Check them now and then during the trip to make sure the engine's vibration hasn't loosened them. Outboard theft isn't uncommon, so, if you're leaving her for a while, padlock the clamps together.
Jul 12, 2024. Original: Aug 5, 2016. A rigid-bottom inflatable with a powerful outboard is the tender of choice for many cruisers. Before choosing which inflatable dinghy is right for you, there are many factors to consider. Some sailors claim that the inflatable boat has killed the traditional rowing sailing tender.
674 posts · Joined 2009. #8 · Nov 14, 2021 (Edited) Sailboat tenders are definitely compromises and there's no one-size-fits all solution. My intended audience was a first-time sailboat owner who just bought a boat in the 27-32 foot range, has limited space on deck, and isn't doing long-range cruising.
Re: Using an inflatable canoe / kayak as a tender on a small yacht. I used one of these for 6 years as a tender for my F27 trimaran. Worked really well on that boat because I could unroll and inflate it on the netting. It fit between the fore and aft akas perfectly. Rolled up, it would drop into a standard 20" square hatch.
To me a kayak, inflatable or not, is a wet, long, self propelled ride, with no real cargo hauling ability. Yesterday I hauled a 4x8 sheet of ply and foam insulation (both cut in half) back to the boat and did it at 15mph. My dink is the water version of my car at home (volvo) so a kayak would be like a one speed bike.
Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale. Parts. General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina MacGregor Oday
Inflatables are everywhere: paddleboards, canoes, kayaks, tents, kites and wings - and inflatable boat technology has long been a practical option for tenders, RIBs, liferafts and lifejackets. But what the 'new wave' of inflatable boats brings to the practical boating landscape is the air floor, which makes very stable, very lightweight tenders a very practical option for people with ...
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Another problem is directional stability. Most empty kayaks will yaw back and forth when being towed. In windy conditions or if you are hit by a motor boat wake, this may cause the kayak to capsize. I find that my Hobie Mirage kayaks tow nicely with the rudder down and centered. The last concern is boarding the kayak from the sailboat.