4.6 out of 5 stars
Product description.
Once cured, it provides superior protection from sun damage, rainy weather, abrasion and scratches. Ideal for marine, indoor & outdoor furniture and trim. Eco-friendly ultra low VOC water based marine varnish limits exposure to harmful chemicals and makes soap and water cleanup easy. Unique resealable Pour Pak™ bag eliminates messy drips and prevents the skinning over & waste associated with metal cans. Compare to all waterbased finishes, oil modified, polycrylic and conventional urethane spar varnishes like McCloskley Man O War, Minwax Helmsman, Rustoleum, Varathane, Epifanes, General Finishes, Arm R Seal, System Three or Deft. All TotalBoat products are developed to provide great value and great results. 100% made in the USA.
Compare with similar items.
Halcyon Marine Varnish | Water-Based Polyurethane Wood Finish | Clear Gloss UV Protection for Interior and Outdoor Use (Clear Amber, 4 Quart) | Deft Interior Exterior Water-Based Polyurethane Finish Gloss, Quart | Helmsman Water Based Spar Urethane, Quart, Gloss | 1 gal 71033 Clear Premium Oil-Water Hybrid Water-Based Oil-Modified Polyurethane, Warm Satin | qt 63333 Clear Polycrylic Water-Based Protective Finish Satin | Aqua Coat Clear Lacquer in Gloss Finish - Premium Water-Based for Wood & Plastic - Fast-Drying, Non-Yellowing, Eco-Friendly - 1 Gallon, Self-CROS-Linking, | |
Price | $129.99$129.99 | $34.28$34.28 | $28.78$28.78 | $49.98$49.98 | $22.97$22.97 | $67.85$67.85 |
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Customer Ratings | 1,197 | 93 | 8,099 | 1,113 | 25,665 | 46 |
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Thinning not required, even for the first coat. However, to help create a desired flow, thin with water up to 20% maximum. Cleanup with soap and water. Application method: Brush, roll & tip, or spray. Application temperature: 50-90°F; 0-90% RH (relative humidity). Number of coats (minimum): 2-3. Accelerated application: Apply a maximum of 5 coats per day. Always wait 12 hours between applying Halcyon and sanding. Tack-free time to recoat: 1 hour at 72°F. Overcoat without sanding: Up to 12 hours. Coverage: 40-50 sq. ft./pint; 80-100 sq. ft./quart. Cured color: Halcyon (clear light amber); Halcyon Clear Gloss or Satin (ultra clear). Finish: Gloss or Satin. Gloss DOI (Distinctness of Image): >90% @ 60°; >77% @ 20°.
Customer Reviews, including Product Star Ratings help customers to learn more about the product and decide whether it is the right product for them.
To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzed reviews to verify trustworthiness.
Customers like the moisture resistance, quality and ease of use of the household varnish. For example, they mention it dries quickly, looks great after 4 layers and is easy to apply. That said, some disagree on color fading and smoothness.
AI-generated from the text of customer reviews
Customers like the quality of the varnish. They say it has a beautiful finish and goes on easily with a foam roller. Some customers also say that the varnish levels itself and doesn't look like orange plastic.
"...I will keep on hand for many reasons....it dries faster, beautifully , easy to work with, no headache causing fumes!..." Read more
"...The swing looks great and WAY BETTER than I imagined it would look when I first placed the swing in the garage at the start of the project...." Read more
"...So easy to apply. Easy to clean up and the finished product is beautiful !" Read more
"...I painted 6 coats of varnish on this table and it looks great . A great product!" Read more
Customers find the varnish easy to apply and clean up. They say it dries fast and provides great protection from the elements. Some say it goes on smoothly and is convenient to use with the pour spout. Overall, customers are satisfied with the ease of use and recommend it to others.
"...it dries faster, beautifully, easy to work with , no headache causing fumes! Easy cleanup and can be used indoors as well...." Read more
"...This product really is easy to work with , was ready for the second coat within an hour, and really does clean up with soap and water...." Read more
"...This product is easy to work with and easy cleanup. Highly recommend!" Read more
"I like the product, goes on effortlessly . It dries fast so if your doing a large area you may want to use a good roller...." Read more
Customers like the moisture resistance of the varnish. For example, they mention it goes on easy, dries quickly enough that you can build up all the layers, and provides a great finish. It flows on and driers as stated on the directions. It also goes on smooth and levels out smooth, with no brush marks.
"...It dries fast , but you have enough time to work with it...." Read more
"I like the product, goes on effortlessly. It dries fast so if your doing a large area you may want to use a good roller...." Read more
"...It glides on , self levels, no brush marks...." Read more
"...Easy cleanup with water. Flows on and dries as stated on the directions ." Read more
Customers like the durability of the varnish. They mention it's very durable to the weather and rain, easy to apply, and forgiving. They also say it'll stand up to mother nature and is of high quality. Customers also say the finish is hard and lasts as long or longer than other varnishes.
"...It is a great consistency , and I only had to catch some runs in the corners. It dries fast, but you have enough time to work with it...." Read more
"...It self levels well and so far has stood up to mother nature ." Read more
"Easy to use and seems very durable . Love the packaging. Yellowed a fair bit after 3-4 months which kinda sucks." Read more
"...Still, this chiped , peeled. I did everything right for surface prep, tack cloth, isopropyl…..." Read more
Customers find the cleanup of the varnish easy. They mention that it cleans up with water, and the wood is untouched by the water. Some say that the varnish is water-based and waterproof.
"... Easy cleanup and can be used indoors as well...." Read more
"...was ready for the second coat within an hour, and really does clean up with soap and water ...." Read more
"...This product is easy to work with and easy cleanup . Highly recommend!" Read more
"...The cleanup process was very simple - my brush was easily cleaned with water (no soap needed)...." Read more
Customers find the bag container genius, easy to store, and convenient. They say it takes up less room to store than pouring from a can.
"...As for the packaging, I REALLY love it. It takes up less room to store and it’s not another plastic or metal can to store - I have a ton stain cans...." Read more
"...I also like the container it's packaged in for ease of pouring and storage .I highly recommend." Read more
"...4- The bag container is pure and simple genius ...." Read more
"...The innovative plastic bag container is brilliant . Used the satin finish on my wooden front door and the finish is beautiful. am totally satisfied...." Read more
Customers are mixed about the smoothness of the varnish. Some mention that it goes on smoothly and evenly, while others say that it leaves significant brush lines and hard brush streaks. The material also flows poorly, requiring sanding for a smooth finish.
"The product does not flow well during application. The heavy brush streaks are unattractive ...." Read more
"...The varnish went on very smoothly with a foam roller, and boy oh boy is it tough...." Read more
"...Well, I got the glossy finish but ended up with brush marks no matter what I used to apply it; nylon brush and foam brush according to their..." Read more
"...The varnish went on smoothly and evenly but left very significant brush lines. So, I decided to try a sponge brush but had the same results...." Read more
Customers are mixed about the color fading of the varnish. Some mention that it's non-yellowing and does not produce a blue tint, while others say that it yellows in the sun. The brown color gets worse the thicker the material gets, and it turns a purple heart dirty grey.
"...They are yellowing significantly . I had to pull a few of my sculptures to sand and repaint because of this...." Read more
"Poured out thick. did nor produce a blue tint and was easy to clean up...." Read more
"Easy to use and seems very durable. Love the packaging. Yellowed a fair bit after 3-4 months which kinda sucks." Read more
"...It needs uv protection bc epoxy yellows in the sun .I sanded below 220 after the first 2 layers peeled offer...." Read more
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Written by J. Harvey / Fact checked by S. Numbers
Let’s face it, we don’t give as much credit to the almost perfect combination of boats and varnishes. After all, vessels aren’t exactly cheap. They aren’t immune to deterioration as well. If there’s one solid way for you to preserve the life of your investment and even take her beauty up a notch, wouldn’t you seize it?
For my part, I can wholeheartedly say that these varnishes are great investments, especially if we’re talking about the best marine varnish. These concoctions go beyond their practical benefits, lending anything made of wood with a nice finish that only unlocks and magnifies their natural exquisiteness.
I can say as much for the products I’ve featured here. They have given me noteworthy, if not outstanding, results that make the others I’ve tried in my more than ten years of boating and fishing pale in comparison.
Table of Contents
2. totalboat gleam marine spar varnish, 3. epifanes cv.500 clear varnish, 4. mccloskey 7509 man o’war spar marine varnish, 5. totalboat 482869 lust marine varnish, 6. epifanes wfm.500 wood finish matte, 7. minwax 63200444 helmsman spar urethane, 8. interlux iva316/qt cetol natural teak varnish, 9. mccloskey 7505 man o’ war spar varnish, 10. pettit marine paint flagship varnish 2015, 11. system three 1855s16 marine spar varnish, 12. duralux m738-1 spar varnish, 13. old masters 153617 spar marine varnish, factors to consider when choosing marine varnish, what is the best marine varnish, what is the difference between spar varnish and marine barnish, how do you apply marine varnish to wood, how long will marine varnish last, is marine spar varnish waterproof, best marine varnish reviews.
If I’m going for all-around reliability and protection from sun and moisture damage, I’d choose this varnish in a heartbeat.
This is my go-to varnish for anything wood found in my sailboat. Whether it’s furniture or railing or sometimes even the bow, I often get the kind of maintainability I want every time I use this. The finish is no less attractive and only gets glittery over time in a number of my past applications.
Thinned up to around 30%, it dries quickly enough to apply multiple coats in a day. Sometimes I go for as low as 20%, down to even 5%. It’s because thinning too much does tend to backfire and lead to the varnish taking a long time to dry. It’s easy to use with everything considered.
If you want the best results, I’ve found that using a fresh foam brush with every coat would result in optimal smoothness. It may seem like a waste, buying multiple brushes, but the results are unrivaled, to say the least. I’ve had applications that lasted for a good 3 years before I needed to refinish them.
This varnish smoothly combines ease of use, beautiful finishes, and above-average durability. The winning formula for successful marine finishes for wood, in short.
This varnish is versatile in that it leaves plenty of routes open for you to take. For one, I like that they give you plenty of freedom when choosing the shine you want. It’s also available in different sizes, so I always get to buy only the proportions I deem fit for a specific project.
I have to be partial to the satin finish, though, since it delivers the exquisite luster I like to see in my indoor boat furniture and fixtures like railings. However, I always make sure to apply a high-gloss varnish if I’m working on anything that has to be exposed to the sun for long hours. That being said, I like that this product gives you both satin and gloss options.
I make sure to apply the high-gloss varnish as a topcoat, and I’ve gotten excellent results, mostly 1 to 2 years of unblemished finishes, with this practice. Sometimes, it’s shorter than that, especially on wooden areas that are more exposed to the elements. Yet, it’s protection you normally expect and can get from high-gloss varnish. In addition, it’s a varnish that’s also noticeably on the thin side, so I kind of get that it wears away faster than thicker varieties.
Another safe option, Epifanes marine spar varnish is anything but average with its status as a crowd favorite. Expect superior finish and durability if you choose this.
This varnish easily earns a spot here, considering its unchanging and undeniably positive reputation among boaters. Simply put, it’s hard to fault because of the wonderful results it can bring. The shiny, attractive gloss that has the Epifanes trademark is rarely surpassed by other marine-grade varnishes in my opinion.
What’s equally neat is that it’s not difficult to apply. You don’t really need to sand it with every coat, unlike the majority of other brands out there, but I still suggest you do it, especially in the later coatings. I recommend using marine spirits as a thinner with a 2:1 ratio, and take the time to pour it through a strainer to guarantee a smooth finish. At best, you’ll have to set 5 to 7 days of gradual coating to get the kind of attractive finish you want; and I mean capital-A attractive.
As in other great exterior varnishes, this product is an example to follow when imparting UV protection. At least, that’s what I think is primarily responsible for the excellent finish and the overall durability. I use this as much on my sailboat’s wood portions above the waterline and furniture as well as furnishings in my home, and the finish often lasts for 2 years on average.
McCloskey’s Man O’War spar varnish is durable, to an almost no-brainer degree. It’s what I buy if I want to get the best out of what spar varnish offers to the average boater.
Despite its relatively hard finish, spar varnish tends to wear out faster than urethane. It’s a natural thing, so I won’t bother to list it as a con. You can’t mimic the deep amber tint, caramelization, and versatility of good old spar varnish, and this brand delivers no less than that trio of perks.
If I’m going to name a worthy brand representative of spar varnishes, I’d promptly pick this one. It adheres excellently to any kind of wood, so I generously slather any wooden fixture in my boat with this once I get a hold of a bottle.
While it’s easy to use, you’d better be prepared to invest time working with this varnish. I use mineral spirits for thinning, and I make sure to apply thin coats, starting from the middle, using a mini roller and a brush, mohair and ox hair respectively. I sand in between coats, and overall it takes time since it dries slowly.
The durability stems a lot from the outstanding UV protection. My sailboat’s wooden bow that has this finish has been battered by rain a good number of times already, and it’s still holding up after a year since the initial application. Since it’s effortless to apply, I just sand and recoat every once in a while.
TotalBoat is a household name in the marine industry as far as paints and varnishes go. This is the brand’s best offering if we’re going to consider fundamental factors like durability, shine, and value for money.
I need to stress outright that this varnish is extra thick, almost honey-like. If you don’t thin it out to at least 50%, you’ll only end up grappling with it to less than desirable results. It’s not exactly beginner-friendly with that considered, but it does pay off since you get optimal protection and the kind of shine any boat owner would be proud of.
Speaking of the finish, it begins to shine through once you hit the one-year mark. At least, that’s what I get from most of the vessels and furniture I apply it to. I can say that it’s smooth sailing once you take the time to know the right consistency.
I often use a roller and apply 5 coats then do a recoat after 2 hours in a whole day. Ideally, the last two coats should only be thinned by about 10% only. It might get tricky applying it then but, trust me, you’ll get the hang of it.
I get the results I want within a day or two — or more at times during less than optimal humidities and temperatures. Even so, that’s obviously quicker than handling traditional varnish, which takes weeks to settle. I do acknowledge the thinner’s role in helping with the drying time.
If we’re talking about top-of-the-line, marine-grade durability, this one deserves to be called the best marine wood finish.
This is my favorite to use on teak because of its proven waterproof capabilities and the fact that its satin finish has just the right amount of sheen, for me, at least. It brings out the beauty of the teak and almost any wood I apply it to, for that matter, and this is coming from someone who has tried numerous marine-grade varnish before. I’ve had furniture that managed to maintain its finish for an impressive 5 years with the help of this varnish.
It’s a bit of a challenge to apply. It actually flows well enough as it is, and I rarely have to thin it with every application. However, you have to make sure that you apply it evenly with every coat and oftentimes as quickly as possible. Once I get patchy and bubbly results, that’s the only time I thin it, and I sand after the first coat, totaling up to 3 coats on average. It will dry more slowly if I thin it, though.
Though not marine-grade, Minwax has proven to be just as durable as many products with that label. It’s very easy to use and delivers just the right amount of shine.
I often use this on my sailboat’s furniture, and if left with no other options, even the wooden exterior of the hull and bow. It goes well with canoes, but I only tend to apply it on the ribs, rudder, and planking. While not marine-grade, it’s great for outdoor furniture, and, to me, that’s always a good sign of heavy-duty UV protection.
If I want to reinforce the protection, I only need to apply more layers, 4 coats at most but not less than 2. I’ve only used it on oak-made fixtures, though, and I get the longevity and finish I want with that kind of simple setup. The varnish lasts up to 1 to 2 years before recoating becomes necessary, with minor peeling only appearing after a year based on my experience.
I like that they give you plenty of options with regards to sheen and container sizes. I prefer satin for my interior furniture. I once made the mistake of not mixing it well and got a result that’s almost similar to high gloss. To avoid this, you need to make sure you mix it for a good 5 minutes and scrape the sides and bottoms of the can as you do so. This guarantees the soft shine you’re aiming for.
This varnish earns my thumbs up with the kind of inimitable finish it can deliver and its relatively easy application.
This has since become my favorite varnish on teak fixtures when I tried it out 2 years ago. This is because of the immense difference it makes in the way it lends my pulpit or anything made of teak with a sophisticated, good-as-new finish. It’s not overly glossy, which I attribute to the “natural teak” claim, and only darkens the wood a tad so it will still maintain its natural hues.
I’m glad it didn’t cause any yellowing, and after my second application, I can still say the same. It has a runny consistency that merits forgoing thinning on the first coat. I like to use a brush when applying it to have better control over coverage, which is great enough as it is, and all I can say is that I’ll apply this to my boat’s bow and rails the moment they start showing signs of wear.
Nonetheless, it would be pushing it to say that it’s as durable as the other varnishes here. It only took a year before my bow showed signs of peels and cracks. However, after I applied a single maintenance coat on the entire thing, I found that it limited or delayed the damage since I’ve yet to see signs again after doing a recoating. That being said, I suggest applying a fresh layer at least once a year to make the most out of this marine varnish for boats.
Budget-friendly, reliable, and just as good as other solid brands, this McCluskey varnish is a must for anyone choosing to go for value for money all the way.
The fact that this varnish can give you outstanding satin finishes and superb durability without going overboard in cost should give you a ready hint why a lot of boaters are shifting to this product. When I say superb durability, I mean thick coatings that you’ll be confident will last for years.
In my case, the minimum is 3 years on all my wood projects, boat bows, railings, and furniture included. You may start seeing peels and scratches here and there, as evidenced by the 7-year-old canoe that I refurbished 3 years ago. But, to me, it’s still none the worse for wear and nothing a minor recoating job won’t remedy.
The finish is not unlike the ones I get from the other varnishes mentioned here. It accentuates the natural color and look of the wood, and I’m saying this for redwood, teak, and light oak, which are the types I’ve applied it to. It dries in a day like most spar varnishes and typically doesn’t need to be thinned, though sanding is ideal per coat.
Incidentally, I need to underline the fact that this varnish is one of the few that doesn’t skin over in the can after you’ve stored what’s left of it. At least, that’s what I can say for most of the cans I’ve purchased and stored, with about a third of the can full in a year.
This rarely figures in marine varnish review posts, and that’s unfortunate considering it’s another top-quality marine varnish that doesn’t yellow, imparts a glossy and thick appearance, and superb UV protection.
Usually, I use this as a general-purpose varnish for the teak and cedar parts and fixtures of my one and only yacht. It gives a deep-colored, thick, glossy, grainy, and smooth finish that I can’t get enough of. It doesn’t yellow at all, probably because of the UV additive used, at least, partly. Anyway, this is one positive quality I always like from any alkyd varnish that is done right.
I prefer to spray this one, following the 20% thinning guideline. Spraying shortens the time for full coverage. I sand lightly between coats using 220-grit sandpaper, and by and large, I only need 3 to 4 coats to get the beautiful finish I described above. It takes almost a whole day to dry, but I don’t mind since I get quality results.
As for durability, I can safely say it’s UV stable. I often leave a couple of chairs and tables out on the deck if the weather’s great, oftentimes, for an entire day. Besides a few scratches in some parts, which aren’t UV-related, they haven’t peeled yet and have maintained their shininess after 2 years since application. I can say the same for the yacht’s teak pulpit.
To me, this is the best boat varnish if we’re only considering durability. It also earns a ready checkmark in protection and attractive finish, making it nothing short of tough to beat.
As far as durability is concerned, the longest that I’ve seen this last without undergoing any kind of major peeling or cracking is close to 3 and a half years. It was on my favorite canoe, which I use fairly regularly for freshwater fishing. 3 years is the maximum for any exterior wood varnish for me, and without a doubt, many boaters would say the same.
I attribute most of the longevity to the excellent water and UV protection. My canoe has borne the brunt of rain and water splashes over the years. I can say the same when I expose it to extensive sunlight exposure when I go fishing in Lake Erie. Top-tier durability in my book.
I sometimes use a thinner with this varnish, but I’ve found that you don’t really need to thin it if you use an HVLP spray gun. Sure, it takes a while to dry and you have to be extra careful, but I’ll take that any day if I get to enjoy these perks and results consistently.
A true gem of a find, Duralux exceeded my expectations with its durability and versatility.
In almost any kind of marine varnish for exterior doors, durability and protection immediately go well together. This spar varnish proves it doesn’t belong on the back burner by delivering both. One of my canoes that I applied this on is still going strong for more than a year, and that’s a quality not a lot of products can boast of.
I’ve had varnish that didn’t take more than a month to start peeling and cracking. That’s after a fresh application, mind you, and, yes, I follow brand recommendations to a tee if I haven’t discovered a better way to apply it. This varnish has kept my other canoes shiny every time so I deemed it deserves the spotlight.
Moreover, it doesn’t yellow over time, unlike some clear varnish I’ve used before. You may argue that there’s a lot of variables when it comes to varnish yellowing, like sanding and possible chemicals it can react to. I’m not sure whether this is spar polyurethane, but I’m betting it is since that’s the only type of varnish I’ve used that doesn’t give me the yellowing effect even with minimal to no sanding.
Old Masters’s varnish shouldn’t be overlooked for its conveniences and quality that only a few top-tier varnish brands can bravely claim they can deliver every time.
This is among the lesser-known spar varnishes that don’t yellow even after a long time has passed. The canoe that I refurbished 3 years ago would prove as much, as it’s still holding up well, surprisingly if I might add. To be honest, this was a second option when I bought it as I didn’t have TotalBoat and McCluskey varnishes available back when I did the finishing job.
I was pleasantly surprised by how things turned out. I followed the instructions and stirred it well. It’s just the right kind of thick, to the point that I don’t have to thin it when applying with a brush or roller. I do have to thoroughly sand and clean the surface first, and it evens out nicely with every coating.
It dries quickly enough for me to apply a second coat in a single day, making me think it’s an exception among oil-based spar varnishes. At best, I give an allowance of 8 to 10 hours before brushing the next coat. Obviously, that’s a time-saving perk I’ll take any day.
It doesn’t produce a yellowing effect, even when applied to parts of my canoe that are regularly exposed to heat, sunlight, and the elements. That’s noteworthy considering it’s a clear varnish. I even have to say that the slightly weathered look it has gotten lends it a charm that most boaters would appreciate.
Based on my experience, there are many “safe” marine varnish options out there. This only means you’re likely to not run out of beginner-friendly brands and can guarantee high-quality results at the same time. Whether it’s high-gloss or satin, all spar varnishes are easy to apply over new wood or previously coated surfaces. Marine varnish is also not partial to any type of wood and can accommodate those commonly found aboard or form part of a vessel, like teak, redwood, oak, etc.
However, that doesn’t completely discount the need to pay attention to certain factors when making your decision. These are usually the ones I make a note of when planning to start a varnishing job.
For spar varnishes, I’ve had finishes that only lasted a year or even less. At best, these two offer equally potent UV protection, waterproof benefits, and even resistance to scratching.
We also need to discuss the possibility of a varnish yellowing or darkening the wood that it is applied to. Sometimes, the darkening could be due to the UV additive or tint used; thus, making it unavoidable unless you opt for a different varnish brand altogether.
As for yellowing, there are ways to avoid it. I shall discuss it below, but sometimes, it’s due to the actual product as well, especially if they are clear, alkyd, or oil-based. It’s not an absolute thing, though, and there are products that prove to be exceptions to this rule.
You’ll hear a lot of experienced boaters recommending brands like Epifanes, TotalBoat, McCloskey, and Rust-Oleum. I agree with them because, to me, these brands can easily meet the standards of high-quality marine varnish. Each one has qualities where they serve to shine better, and the reviews I outlined above should give you a good idea about what they are.
Nonetheless, I’m not completely discounting the other brands I included here. I daresay that they’re just as good as those top-dog brands, especially in essential factors like durability and a long-lasting aesthetically appealing finish. Moreover, I find them to be valuable substitutes if any go-to brand happens to be unavailable and won’t even hesitate to pick them as the main option based on certain requirements of a finishing job.
Incidentally, you may have noticed that I didn’t include ease of cleaning when discussing these brands. That’s because most, if not all, of them are very easy to clean for me. At least, for the almost uniform smooth finishes that I get out of them.
There’s not much, really. When boaters use the term “spar varnish”, chances are, they’re also automatically referring to marine varnish. You can also see this in how brands usually label their products in online stores, like Sherwin Williams marine spar varnish or TotalBoat gleam marine spar varnish, to cite a few examples. If you’re using spar varnish, it’s almost always marine-grade.
Both terms give the ready connotation of finishes that provide heavy-duty protection against the harsh elements usually involved when boating, fishing, and cruising. You’ll find plenty of oil-based spar varnishes (i.e. tung oil, alkyd resin, etc.) that are imbued with additives that serve to accentuate the natural beauty of the wood, as well as solvents and other chemicals that promote fast drying and add UV protection.
Since certain varnishes have different components or are more natural or synthetic, it’s best to stick to the manufacturer’s instructions when applying any kind of varnish. However, we can’t deny that most projects share a few essential guidelines, such as the following:
Most marine varnishes typically last for at least 2 years. There are brands that have a minimum of 3 years before they begin showing signs of damage. I can attest to marine varnish that keeps its shine and protection for 5 years, and I’ve highlighted the exact products that can achieve that.
Ultimately, if you keep its sun exposure to a minimum, you’re guaranteed to extend any kind of varnish’s lifespan. I’ve noticed that varnished fixtures and furniture in my yacht tend to last significantly longer than the ones that are exposed to sunlight extensively, regardless of the varnish’s UV-protective capabilities.
This is almost always the case considering this type of varnish is marine-grade. Most experts attribute this to spar varnish’s flexibility (i.e. its ability to expand and contract with the wood). However, equally many attribute it to the simple fact that spar varnish is mainly oil-based, allowing to wick away moisture with ease.
Now, do you have a good idea of what the best marine varnish brings to the table? With all things considered, the best parting advice I can give is to not hesitate to try out the options available to you. Sure, there will always be no-brainer choices, but it didn’t take long for me to find out that it pays to try out other brands because they may give your boat the kind of shine or longevity you’ve always wanted.
“I am James Harvey – founder of Boating Basics Online. It is established with the drive to help out first-time boaters, which are those desiring to explore their way through the water. So if you are new to boating, start from here with me. “
Two-part varnishes leading in durability as long-term test reaches 24-month mark..
Like spotting land after a long passage, were glad to say that the end of our long-term exterior wood finishes test is finally on the horizon. Time, weather, and Southwest Floridas unrelenting sunshine have clearly taken their toll on the test panels over the last 24 months, and as the evaluation moves into its third year, only 19 of the original 54 test products will continue on in our survival-of-the fittest finish matchup. Given that most wood coatings are rarely expected to last longer than two years in the marine environment-particularly in super-sunny locales-its no surprise that we’ve seen more significant changes in the coatings in the last six months than we had in previous checkups.
Our search for the ideal wood finish-relatively easy to apply, easy to maintain, lasts multiple seasons, and is affordable-began in 2007 when we took a look at the different types of exterior wood finishes on the market, their pros and cons, and how easy they were to apply ( one-part varnishes , August 2007; varnish alternatives , October 2007; two-part varnishes , December 2007; teak oils and stains , April 2008). Launched in 2008, the long-term panel test aimed to determine which type of coating offers the best and longest protection and which products stand out among their peers.
We hope the comparison enables readers to decide which finish best matches their own taste, potential labor investment, and wood protection needs.
We’ve rated the test products every six months and reported on the coatings durability in the May 2009 issue ( six-month checkup ), December 2009 issue ( 12 months ), and January 2011 ( 18 months ) issues. Here, we offer the two-year report on the survivors.
Testers applied dozens of exterior wood finishes (22 one-part varnishes, six two-part varnishes, 18 synthetics and satins/varnish alternatives, and eight teak oils and sealers) to small panels of bare solid teak. Each was assigned a number for blind judging and was applied per manufacturers instructions. If makers gave a range for the number of coats to apply, testers went with the minimum.
Initial testing rated each products ease of application and original gloss and reflective qualities. In the summer of 2008, the test panels were mounted on a wooden rack (aka: The Rack), which was set up in an unobstructed area on the roof of the PS workshop in Sarasota, Fla., to ensure that all panels received the same amount of weather exposure. The top part of each panel was covered to create a control area that testers used for comparison over time. Every six months, we disassembled The Rack and rated the panels on how well their coating integrity, gloss, and color had fared over time with constant exposure to the elements.
The test was designed as an endurance test, a fight to the finish, so we have not done any maintenance coats or touch-ups to the test panels. These products can be expected to have much longer lifespans if they are regularly maintained.
Testers rate each panel on three long-term performance criteria: coating integrity, gloss retention, and color retention. Excellent and Good coating integrity ratings mean that no maintenance is needed; a Fair indicates that its time for a maintenance coat; Poor means the fat lady has sung, and the coating would need to be removed and re-applied. Excellent ratings are given only to those with an uncompromised coating. This time, panels with Poor and Fair- coating integrity were pulled from the test.
Color and gloss retention ratings are relative to the panels original finish. Initial gloss and ease of application are relative to the field within each coating category; these were assigned immediately after the panels were coated.
It was tougher to pick Recommended coatings at the two-year mark, as most wood finishes aren’t intended to go that long without maintenance. One-part varnishes that earned PSs recommendation this go-round were rated Fair for coating integrity (none rated better than Fair ) and had no Poor ratings. Recommended two-part systems rated Good or better for coating integrity with no Poor ratings. No varnish alternatives or teak oils/sealers were recommended at two years.
PRODUCT | PRICE | AFTER 2 YEARS COAT INTEGRITY | GLOSS RETENTION | COLOR RETENTION | AFTER 1 YEAR COAT INTEGRITY | GLOSS RETENTION | COLOR RETENTION | INITIAL RATINGS EASE OF APPLICATION | GLOSS/ FINISH NOTES |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Epifanes Rapidclear | $26/ quart | Poor | Poor | Fair | Fair | Good | Fair | Excellent | Clear/satin |
Interlux Sikkens Cetol Marine (alone) | $25/ quart | Fair | N/A | Fair+ | Excellent | N/A | Good | Excellent | Opaque amber/ matte |
Interlux Sikkens Cetol with Marine Gloss | $25/ quart (Gloss $28) | Fair+ | Poor | Good | Excellent | Excellent | Good | Good | Opaque amber; clear overcoat/ Satin |
Interlux Sikkens Cetol Marine Light (alone) | $25/ quart | Fair | N/A | Fair | Good+ | N/A | Fair | Excellent | Opaque light amber/ matte |
Interlux Sikkens Cetol Marine Light with Marine Gloss | $25/ quart (Gloss: $28) | Fair+ | Poor | Good | Excellent | Excellent | Good | Good | Opaque amber; clear overcoat/ satin |
Interlux Sikkens Cetol Natural Teak with Marine Gloss | $26/ quart (Gloss: $28) | Fair- | Fair | Poor | Good | Good | Fair | Good | Golden-translucent, clear overcoat/ satin |
Le Tonkinois Bio Impression with Vernis | N/A | Fair | Poor | Fair | Good | Fair | Fair | Good | Warm, dark amber/ high gloss |
West Marine WoodPro Plus Semi-Gloss | $30/ quart | Poor | Poor | Fair | Fair | Fair | Fair | Good | Clear/ satin |
WoodPlus Marine Natural | $21/ quart | Fair- | Poor | Poor | Good | Good | Fair | Excellent | Reddish brown/ low gloss |
Ace Spar Varnish Gloss 16373 | $13/ quart | Fair- | Fair- | Good | Good | Good | Good | Excellent | Good |
Coelan (with primer) | $145/ kit | Fair- | Fair | Fair- | Excellent | Excellent | Good | Good | Excellent |
Deft Defthane Poly Satin | $13/ quart | Fair- | Poor | Fair- | Excellent | Good | Good | Excellent | Fair |
Detco Crystal | $41/ quart | Good- | Fair | Fair- | Good | Good | Good | Fair | Good |
Epifanes Clear High Gloss | $27/ quart | Fair- | Fair- | Good | Excellent | Excellent | Good | Good | Excellent |
Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss | $36/ quart | Fair | Poor | Fair | Excellent | Excellent | Good | Good | Excellent |
HMG K Type Varnish | $30/ liter | Poor | Poor | Poor | Excellent | Good | Fair | Good | Excellent |
Interlux Goldspar Cllear | N/A | Fair+ | Fair- | Fair+ | Good | Excellent | Good | Good | Excellent |
Interlux Jet Speed | N/A | Fair | Poor | Fair | Fair | Fair | Good | Excellent | Excellent |
Interlux Schooner | $23/ quart | Fair+ | Fair- | Poor | Good+ | Good | Fair | Good | Good |
Le Tonkinois No. 1 | $35/ liter | Fair- | Poor | Fair | Fair | Fair | Good | Excellent | Excellent |
Le Tonkinois Vernis | $33/ liter | Fair+ | Fair- | Fair+ | Excellent | Fair | Good | Excellent | Excellent |
Minwax In/Outdoor Helmsman Spar Urethane | $17/ quart | Fair | Fair | Poor | Good | Good | Fair | Excellent | Excellent |
Pettit Bak V-Spar 2053 | N/A | Fair- | Poor | Poor | Fair | Poor | Fair | Excellent | Excellent |
Pettit Z-Spar 2015 Flagship | $30/ quart | Fair | Fair | Fair | Good | Excellent | Good | Excellent | Excellent |
Pettit Z-spar Captain's Ultra Clear 2067 | $30/Quart | Fair+ | Fair | Fair | Excellent | Good | Fair | Excellent | Excellent |
Pettit Z-Spar Captain’s 1015 Traditional Amber | $28/ quart | Fair- | Poor | Fair | Excellent | Good+ | Good | Good | Good |
Pettit Z-Spar Captain’s EZ Care 1016 (Woolsey) | N/A | Fair | Fair- | Good | Good | Good | Good | Excellent | Good |
West Marine 5-Star Premium | $32/ quart | Fair- | Poor | Fair | Excellent | Good | Fair | Good | Excellent |
TWO-PART SYSTEMS | |||||||||
Bristol Finish, Traditional Amber | $70/ kit (1 quart) | Poor | Fair | Good | Fair | Excellent | Good | Excellent | Excellent |
HMG Acrythane XSC | $45/ liter | Fair | Good | Fair+ | Good+ | Excellent | Good | Good | Good |
Honey Teak with overcoat | $2/ sq. ft. | Fair- | Good | Fair | Fair | Good | Good | Excellent | Excellent |
Interlux Perfection | $60/ kit (1 quart) | Excellent | Excellent | Good | Excellent | Excellent | Good | Good | Excellent |
Nautiking NautiThane | $120/ kit (1 quart) | Good | Good- | Good | Excellent | Excellent | Good | Excellent | Good |
Smith Five-Year Clear | N/A | Good | Good | Fair | Good+ | Excellent | Good | Good | Excellent |
What a difference a season makes! With the exception of a few two-part products, the test coatings had lost their sparkle at the two-year mark. Ratings slipped across the board. The UV abuse had obviously taken its toll, sucking the life out of most of the coatings, particularly the clear finishes.
Those clinging to life with Fair coating integrity are still protecting the wood, but they’ve lost their looks. In the real world, all of the one-part varnish and varnish alternative test panels would be due for a maintenance coat, and some-like HMG K Type Varnish, West Marine WoodPro Plus (rebranded Epifanes Rapidclear), and Ace Spar Varnish-would be overdue.
The biggest overall decline was within the one-part varnish test group: Not a single one rated better than Fair for coating integrity or gloss retention, and nearly half of the test field was retired after this rating round. Just six months before, eight of the 19 products rated Good for coating integrity and six rated Good for gloss retention. In 12 months, seven dropped from an Excellent coating integrity to a Fair.
The one-part varnishes offering the most protection after two years are Detco Crystal, Le Tonkinois Vernis, and Pettits Z-Spar Captains 2067. However, their extended protection comes with tradeoffs: Detco rated only Fair for application, Le Tonks gloss started to slip after one year, and Pettits 2067 started losing its original color after 12 months.
One hardware store varnish has surprisingly held its own over the long haul: Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane. At half the cost of the Recommended one-part varnishes, Minwax slacked in the color retention department, but it has proven its multi-season durability.
Four of the nine varnish alternatives have been voted off The Rack after two years, and none performed well enough to earn our recommendation for two-year wood protection.
The Cetol products are still at the head of the pack, albeit a somewhat mangy-looking pack. The cloudy, opaque look of the Cetol Marine and Marine Light products may not appeal to everyone, but the fact they’ve maintained their color for more than a year is a good example that higher-solids finishes tend to offer better UV protection.
The Cetol Natural (with gloss) test panel fell from a Good coating integrity six months ago to being dropped from testing. Its performance mirrors what we’ve seen in the field: Give it a little loving once a year with a scrubby pad and a fresh coat, and it’ll last the long haul.
Its taken two years, but the two-part varnishes are finally starting to show their age. Surprisingly, the first products to be dropped from this group are two that performed well in past PS tests: Bristol Finish and Honey Teak. This is likely because the life of a wood finish in Florida is always going to be shorter than in our past test locales in New England.
The other two-parts are still holding up well, with Interlux Perfection and Nautiking Nautithane offering uncompromised protection and better-than-expected gloss after 24 months. Perfection has been reformulated since the test began and is now sold as Perfection Plus.
The temporarily discontinued (since 2009) Smiths Five Year Clear has also proven to be a top-notch finish, but its not available at this time.
While HMG Acrythane XSC didn’t earn our Recommendation this time, it was a top 18-month finish, it still looks good, and it costs less than the Nautithane.
After two years of testing, we’ve come to accept that perhaps there’s no Holy Grail of exterior wood finishes. It would appear, unfortunately, that we can’t have it all: easy to apply, easy to maintain, long-lasting protection, and a budget-friendly price tag. The reality is that, like much in life, wood protection is all about compromise and balancing your needs with your wants.
There’s no one-size-fits-all solution, and the boat owner who finds gratification in the wet, glossy look of a two-part varnish borne of painstaking preparation and careful application will weigh our test data much differently than the one who regards brightwork maintenance as a masochistic endeavor. For the latter, we recommend seeking out a varnish alternative (easy to apply, easy to maintain) that suits your tastes. With modest maintenance, the Cetol products with gloss overcoats have proven to be the most durable.
For areas where slippery-when-wet coatings wont do, Cetol Natural (without gloss overcoat) or our top-pick teak oil, Star brites Tropical Teak Sealer (classic teak) should be considered. The Star brite will need to be reapplied every three or four months.
If you’re looking for a harder, more abrasion-resistant finish that’ll make it past the year mark, check out the top one-part varnishes like Detco Crystal or Pettits Z-Spar Captains 2067. Boat owners in sailing areas that see less sunshine than our Florida test site should also consider Pettits Flagship 2015 or Captains 1015. One-part varnishes require a little more work upfront and quick attention when they are scratched or dinged, but they also offer a more traditional, high-gloss look. The one-part varnishes in our test slipped dramatically after a year and half, so we suggest an annual maintenance coat, whether they look like they need it or not.
As this test has shown, when it comes to long-lasting protection and gloss, two-part varnishes just can’t be beat. They may be a pain to apply-and should you let the coating fail, you had better invest in a heat gun-but their durability is unmatched.
The top two-part after two years of testing was Interlux Perfection. Because we’ve not yet tested the reformulated Perfection, the top pick honors go to Nautikings Nautithane. While its price tag ($120 per quart kit) is a bit hard for most of us to swallow, Nautithane earned across-the-board Good ratings after two years.
Practical Sailor often supplements panel testing with product challenges aboard our test boats to see whether top products still earn their keep in the real world and to try out new products. Two such evaluations are our exterior wood finish tests.
In the January 2011 issue, we introduced a head-to-head matchup of varnish alternatives—market-newcomer PolyWhey from Vermont Natural Coatings versus perennial favorite Interlux’s Sikkens Cetol Natural Teak—that had been applied to our Cape Dory 25 test boat. For that test, we’ve just let nature run its course: no band-aid touchups, no maintenance coats, no freshwater rinses, no TLC at all.
Comparatively, we’ve been testing Cetol Natural aboard our Chesapeake Bay-based Union 36 test boat, where it was laid on with the Cetol gloss overcoat in 2008; in this evaluation, testers have applied annual maintenance coats and given the coating regular TLC. Here’s the latest on both of these tests:
In the fall of 2010, testers applied three coats of Caspian Clear PolyWhey to the coamings and companionway trim on the Cape Dory, which is sailed several times a week and lives on a mooring in Sarasota Bay, Fla. We also applied Cetol Natural to the boat’s toerail, and previously had applied it to the tiller and forward hatch trim.
PolyWhey is a unique wood finish that uses whey protein, a by-product of the cheesemaking process, as a binder. It’s touted as a more eco-friendly and more sustainable coating than petroleum-based polyurethanes, which can have up to 75 percent more volatile organic compounds (VOCs).
Consistently among the top varnish alternatives in PS’s tests, Cetol Natural is not as muddy-looking as its predecessors, Cetol Marine Light and Cetol Marine—like the Caspian Clear, it allows the wood’s natural grain to show and has a low gloss.
As far as application, both the Cetol and PolyWhey are quick and easy to apply, with much shorter recoat times than hard varnishes and less (or no) sanding between coats. The main difference that we found in these two finishes was with durability.
The PolyWhey turned out to be a much softer coating than the Cetol. It held up for about two months, but after three months, it was in need of a recoat, and at six months, it needed a total takedown—and Cetol had emerged as the death-match victor.
The PolyWhey on the coaming was the first to go: Where crew backs often lean against the wood, the finish was all but gone after four months. The PolyWhey on the companionway slides held on for about that long, but by six months, they were ready for a do-over as well.
The Cetol on the toerail was in need of a few touchups after six months, mostly in areas where fenders and docklines came in contact with it. But the tiller and hatch trim were still fairly well-protected almost a year after application. Although we’d recommend a maintenance coat at this point, testers plan to see how many more months we can eek out of the coating before we reach the point of no return.
Bottom line : We applaud VNC’s efforts to offer a “green” wood finish—and their creative recycling of dairy industry “trash”—but we can’t recommend it over Cetol for an exterior coating in the marine environment.
Testers applied three coats of Cetol Natural with Cetol Marine Gloss overcoat to the Union in March 2008. Once a year, we scuff it up with a 3M pad, give it a freshwater rinse, and brush on a maintenance coat.
Compared to a clear, glossy varnish, it looks decent and the maintenance regimen is more realistic for our tastes and available time. However, one downside to softer, varnish alternative coatings—even those with an overcoat—is that they don’t stand up as well as hard finishes to dings and abrasion. Example: The Union’s toerail has one place in need of touching-up where a fender line wore away the finish. (See photo above.)
Bottom line : The Cetol Natural with overcoat has held up very well. While applying the topcoat may mean added effort, both our panel tests and test-boat evaluations have shown that the coating will last much longer and need fewer bandaids if the soft Cetol is protected with the semi-hard topcoat.
Teak oils and other naturally based finishes like PolyWhey, need maintenance coats every few months. Their chemical cousins, however, like Cetol, have proven they can offer good protection with only annual nurturing and the occasional touchup.
18 comments.
I’m surprised you didnt include Alwood from Awlgrip
Search Awlwood on the website. We have a couple reports. October 2014 (chandlery), and June 2015 issues. Download the PDFs, because the tables haven’t been loaded online yet. It is broadly comparable to Sikkens Cetol.
opps, Awlwood not alwood
All very interesting……The “bottom line” is just flush the line in fresh water.
Thank you for the great info. I am going order year of Practical Sailor.
What is your opinion of covering a 2 part varnish with a one part?
It is certainly a comprehensive test. I’ve taken the journey of sticking with one of your “good” one part varnishes, Epiphanes Wood Finish gloss 10 coats with Epiphanes final two matte finishes. I’ve been quite impressed with it over the past 8 years on both my Cape Dory Typhoon and my Alberg 30. My conclusion is, read your directions carefully and be patient through all phases of application. Teak requires a caregiver! Great read especially during this pandemic period.
Great review. Your test is useful for me because I want to buy but dont know which product is the best. I must say that I like all of those mentioned above and price is really cheap. It’s always good to hear other input.
You missed out Pettit’s Gold, a water-based varnish. I have used it, and it’s great. For long life? Too soon to tell. Cetol has mostly been a disaster, especially with the Gloss overcoat. Applying Cetol can be tantamount to vandalism.
That’s really nice post. I appreciate your skills. Thanks for sharing.
Did you continue with testing to date, I am after a product that want yellow or bloom because of constant direct sunlight. I am in the North West of Australia where the temp at it’s coolest is 30+ Celsius for a couple of months and peeks over 50 + Celsius for a lot more than the couple of cooler months.
I use Rust-Oleum 207008 Spar Varnish. So much better than those water-based varnishes. This stuff protects almost forever. We used to use this kind of spar varnish in the Navy to protect the woodwork exposed to salty air.
The Interlux Varnish became my favorite varnish on teak fixtures when I tried it out 2 years ago. This is because of the immense difference it makes in the way it lends my pulpit or anything made of teak with a sophisticated, good-as-new finish.
It’s strange that you call out Pettit Z-Spar Captains 2067 as a top performer in the conclusions, but it’s not shown in the chart. Those Pettit products that are included in the chart don’t appear to be top performers. I’m confused.
After less than a year the Bristol finish I used on my boat looks terrible and will have to be removed. The folks at Bristol are absolutely no help at all. Their disclaimer is that they know nothing about boats. I most strongly advise against using this product for marine application. I have photos taken immediately after application, two months after, and eight months after if anyone is interested. By the way, the problem manifested on well prepped old teak and well prepped new teak. Could have just been a bad batch of finish but as I said, the folks at Bristol were no help. I ADVISE AGAINST USING BRISTOL FOR MARINE APPLICATIONS
I’m certain that the analysis of marine varnish was expensive and time consuming but one area that could benefit many subscribers if it was conducted continuously. Practical Sailor is the only place that I can rely on for accurate, up-to-date information on the products I need and use.
This is an important maintenance topic to me. Maintaining brightwork is a lot of labor. This article was last updated in June 2020. I would appreciate an update. I have been using Epifanes clear high gloss varnish for the last five seasons. It gives a good finish but it needs to be touched up one a year even though my boat is under cover for six months of the year. I sail on Lake Erie.
Hi Darryl, I’ve been reading about the new clear wood finishes that are UV cured for furniture. They often topcoat with a “nano” finish. Is this new technology suitable for the marine environment? It sounds too good to be true, easy application, no waiting time, resists scratching… Thanks
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There are lots of different makes of varnish available, and you'd think that you could just walk into your nearest store and pick almost any can, right? Not so fast! There's more to choosing the right varnish than it might appear — choose the wrong sort and you could be left with an expensive mess.
Basically, there are three kinds of varnish: Oil based, usually made with tung oil as one of the main ingredients; polyurethanes, which generally have a synthetic-oil base; and two-part varnishes, which, as the name implies, is a resin base to which a hardener, or catalyst is added prior to application. Unless you're starting off from bare wood, the most sensible way is to use the same finish that was applied last time. The varnish will be compatible with what's on the boat already, and the color will be consistent. When varnishing bare wood, almost any varnish can be used, but read the instructions on the can carefully before starting.
Old-time varnishes were boiled down from tree resin. Older-style varnishes tend to be thicker and may be made from a combination of tung oil, phenolic resins, and alkyds. Most of these varnishes were developed for furniture and only later used for boat masts. Given that a mast flexes in the wind, the varnish needs to move with it rather than crack. This gave rise to single-part, tung-oil-based varnish often referred to as "spar" varnish. With these, the varnish is dissolved in solvents, so it begins to harden as soon as it's applied. You can apply a second coat of tung-oil varnish before the first layer is totally hardened because the solvents will keep evaporating out of the underlying varnish layer. Jim Seidel, who retired as marketing manager of Interlux, says, "You need to be careful when applying tung-oil varnish on horizontal surfaces as you can lay it on too heavily and it feels dry, but depending on the thickness of the coating and temperature you're working in, it may trap solvent and can lead to alligatoring." These varnishes tend to give a slight yellow cast to the wood.
Oil-based one-part polyurethanes are made using chemicals similar to epoxy and can be used to cover clear epoxy resin. In fact, one way to build up layers fast is to coat the wood with epoxy and finish with three or four coats of high-UV polyurethane. Polyurethanes can be oil- or water-based. Oil-based polyurethanes tend to be harder, and last slightly longer, but they can also crack. When applying oil-based polyurethanes, you need to let one layer harden completely, then sand it lightly, before applying a second coat. Oil-based polyurethanes tend to give a slight yellow color to the wood.
Water-based polyurethanes are easier to clean up, but they're slightly softer and don't last quite as long as oil-based. Again the varnish needs to harden before applying a second coat. Water-based varnishes can be almost totally clear.
Two-part varnishes need to be mixed before they're used. In most cases, the base and the hardener are in separate cans, and you simply pour the contents of one can into the other and stir well. The advantage of two-part polyurethane varnishes is that they last longer and are far more abrasion resistant. It is important to note that due to the very hard nature of the coating, a two-part varnish can't be applied over a one-part varnish, as they're incompatible with each other. The problem with two-part varnishes is that they only have several hours in which they stay liquid. (The "pot life" that the varnish stays useable can be from several hours up to two days.) Once the varnish is spread out on the job, it will begin to harden as air and moisture in the air act on it. These varnishes tend to be clear and need to be thoroughly dry before a second coat is applied. Steve Schultz, formerly with Interlux and now with EMC Quantum, says, "Two-part varnishes are a better choice because they last longer and reduce the labor required. In turn, this reduces the overall cost of varnish maintenance."
Two-part varnishes contain isocyanates, and while many are meant to be applied by a professional (with safety precautions) they can be brushed on provided the user wears a respirator. Isocyanates become a problem when they're sprayed because the fine particle size can affect the user's lungs. Brushing them, provided the user observes standard safety precautions (gloves, eye protection, and respirator), is preferable.
Single-part varnishes and coatings.
Awlgrip AwlSpar (for professional use only)
Bristol Finish Traditional Amber Urethane (exterior), Classic Clear Water Based Urethane (Interior only)
Detco Crystal Varnish (clear coat)
Epifanes Clear Varnish (Tung oil/Alkyd/max UV resistant), Rapid Coat (Alkyd/Urethane), Woodfinish (tung oil/urethane)
HMG Marine Coma Berenice (polyurethane/Alkyd)
Interlux Compass Clear (polyurethane), Schooner Gold (high build, high performance), Schooner (polyurethane), Goldspar Satin (modified polyurethane)
Le Tonkinois (Tung oil/linseed oil)
Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane, Water based Spar Urethane
Pettit Z Spar (linseed/Tung oil), Z Spar Flagship (linseed/Tung oil), Captain's Varnish (alkyd/phenolic/Tung/Linseed oil), Hi build (tung oil/phenolic/linseed oil), EasyPoxy (urethane)
PermaJet PermaPROtect GLO, SAT (water based polymer)
Signature Finish Clear Urethane
West Marine Brand Admiral's Varnish (alkyd), Five Star Premium (alkyd), WoodShield (synthetic wood finish)
Awlgrip AwlBrite Clear (for professional use only)
Alexseal Clear (for professional use only)
EMC Quantum UV Varnish
Interlux Perfection Plus (Clear polyurethane)
Signature Finish Honey Teak (Urethane Enamel top coat)
Owatrol Marine Deks Ole
Minwax Teak Oil
Sikkens ProLuxe Cetol Marine
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Yacht varnish is a specialized type of varnish that is often used on boats. It has several advantages over conventional varnish, which is why it is becoming more and more popular among boat owners. In this guide, we will discuss the benefits of yacht varnish. We will also answer some common questions about yacht varnish. So if you are interested in learning more about this topic, keep reading!
Yacht varnish is a type of varnish specifically designed for boats. It is typically made from a tougher resin that can withstand the harsh conditions that boats are exposed to, such as salt water and sunlight. Yacht varnish also often contains UV inhibitors to help protect the wood from fading and other damage caused by exposure to sunlight. Conventional varnishes are not as durable as yacht varnish and will not stand up to the same conditions. This makes them less suitable for use on boats. However, they can still be used for other applications, such as furniture or around the garden.
Marine varnish can be divided into three different types, each with its own perfect uses. Yacht owners choose to use one or all of these types for better performance.
Is the most popular type among yacht owners who take boat maintenance seriously. International Schooner or Goldspar Boat Varnish are both oil-based varnishes that coats the wood evenly leaving a smooth finish while requiring minimal preparation work before it can be applied. This only requires a couple of coats. Is advisable to lightly sand the surface between coats to achieve the highest quality glossy finish. The smooth, high gloss finish will protect teak parts from water stains and help to maintain their appearance over time! Its UV protection helps prevent mould growth too which is especially important in wetter climates. Oil-based varnish is easy to apply and can be repaired by sanding and re-oiling the wood, meaning it will last longer than other conventional varnishes. It's also easier to apply compared with water-based yacht varnish which requires no sanding or priming before application.
Often used on marine boats where there is not much exposure to agitation or rubbing, making oil-based varnish too heavy for use. This yacht varnish type tends to leave a thin, powdery residue that needs sanding down after drying but offers better penetration into the wood than its oil counterpart. Polyurethane boat varnish - is much more hard-wearing than oil or water-based yacht varnishes. Stronger than oil-based or water-based yacht varnish, polyurethane yacht varnish tends to dry quickly and offers an ultra-hard surface that is resistant to impact, scratching and denting. This yacht varnish type has a high gloss tough finish so it's best suited for areas of the boat that are exposed to more wear and tear. This type of varnish can also be divided into two categories as one part polyurethane boat varnish and two-part polyurethane varnish.
The yacht varnish that is most commonly used for yacht paint jobs. The yacht varnish offers a quick drying time and can be easily re-coated within hours between each coat. It should be noted that due to its rigidity it is not recommended to be used for painting highly flexible wooden areas as it might crack in time leaving the wood exposed to elements. Two-Part Polyurethane Varnish - is the varnish with longer working times, making it easier to apply on larger boats. It's advisable to use only one part polyurethane yacht varnish for smaller projects as two-part yacht varnishes tend to leave an unprofessional finish when applied by hand. This type of varnish is extremely tough and consists of two products mixed together. It offers very good protection from moisture and UV damage but the same as the above this is not suitable for some areas on your yacht (such as spars) and it will crack as the wood moves and will leave the wood exposed to the elements.
Yes, yacht varnish is typically waterproof. This makes it a good choice for protecting boats from the elements. It can also help to keep the wood of the boat looking its best for longer.
No, yacht varnish does not typically need primer. However, it is a good idea to test it on a small area of the surface you are going to varnish to make sure it adheres properly. If you do decide to use primer, make sure it is designed for use with yacht varnish.
Yes, yacht varnish seals the wood. It forms a protective barrier that helps to keep the wood from damage and keeps it looking its best for longer.
The lifespan of yacht varnish varies depending on the brand and the conditions it is exposed to. However, it typically lasts for several years, anywhere from two to three years before you need to apply a new coat or two. Some varnishes obviously last longer than others depending on the area where they will be applied.
There is no simple answer to this question as it depends on the specific application and the needs of the user. However, in general, yacht varnish is a better option for protecting wood from the elements and keeping it looking its best. It is also typically more durable than wood stain, which makes it a better choice for boats.
It is important to sand between coats of yacht varnish because it helps to create a smooth, even surface. This makes the final coat of varnish look its best and helps to protect the wood from damage.
The number of coats you should apply depends on the specific product you are using and the area you are varnishing. In general, two to three coats are sufficient. However, it is always a good idea to follow the manufacturer's instructions for the best results.
There are three types of finish on boat varnish: gloss, semigloss, and satin. Each one has its own benefits and drawbacks, so it is important to choose the one that best suits your needs. Gloss finish is the most durable, but it is also the most reflective. This can make it difficult to see in bright sunlight. The semigloss finish is less reflective than gloss, but it is still quite durable. It is a good choice for areas that receive moderate amounts of sunlight. The satin finish is the least reflective and also the least durable. However, it can provide a more natural look to the wood. It is a good choice for areas that do not receive a lot of sunlight.
Yes, you can put yacht varnish over the wood stain. However, it is important to make sure that the stain is fully dry before applying the varnish. Otherwise, you may end up with a sticky mess.
The drying time for yacht varnish varies depending on the brand and the conditions it is used in. In general, you can expect it to take anywhere from six to eight hours to fully dry. However, it is always a good idea to read the manufacturer's instructions for the best results.
Yes, you can thin yacht varnish if it is too thick. However, you should only use a thinner that is specifically designed for use with yacht varnish. Otherwise, you may end up with a poor-quality finish.
The best way to remove yacht varnish depends on the type of finish you have. If you have a glossy finish, you can use a polishing compound. For a semigloss or satin finish, you can use sandpaper. In general, it is best to remove yacht varnish with a power sander. However, you can also remove it by hand if you are careful.
Yes, you can apply a new coat of varnish over the existing varnish. However, it is important to make sure that the old coat is in good condition. Otherwise, you may not get the desired results.
Yacht varnish is designed to keep your boat looking good as new even throughout the season's hottest and coldest temperatures. The UV inhibitors prevent yellowing, which can otherwise occur due to exposure to external factors like sunlight or rainwater on a dock; they also remain slightly soft so that it will not crack when expanding or contracting with changes throughout each year. Liquids such as engine oils may cause blistering if left unprotected by an anti-blister agent like silicone lubricant (which contains graphite).
Yacht varnish is typically oil-based. This makes it more durable and resistant to fading. However, water-based varnishes are also available. These are less durable but easier to apply.
Choosing the right yacht varnish depends on how much time you want to put into maintaining your boat as well as its location. We stock a wide range of varnish suitable for any type of wood on your vessel.
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Durable one-part, water-based marine varnish dries to a UV-stable, gloss finish that accentuates the wood grain and improves clarity — even after multiple coats. Dries super fast, so you can apply up to 5 coats in a day, without sanding between coats.
DURABLE MARINE-GRADE VARNISH cures to a hard gloss or satin finish for beautiful brightwork; for interior and exterior use on wood trim, toerails, cockpits, doors, cabinets, chairs, outdoor furniture and more - on your boat or at home.
The best marine varnish pulls no punches when upping your boat's appeal and longevity. Read about them here!
I use Rust-Oleum 207008 Spar Varnish. So much better than those water-based varnishes. This stuff protects almost forever. We used to use this kind of spar varnish in the Navy to protect the woodwork exposed to salty air.
Water-based varnishes can be almost totally clear. Two-Part Varnishes. Two-part varnishes need to be mixed before they're used. In most cases, the base and the hardener are in separate cans, and you simply pour the contents of one can into the other and stir well.
Water-based boat varnish. Often used on marine boats where there is not much exposure to agitation or rubbing, making oil-based varnish too heavy for use. This yacht varnish type tends to leave a thin, powdery residue that needs sanding down after drying but offers better penetration into the wood than its oil counterpart.