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J105 SPEED GUIDE

Who sails a j105.

As the first keelboat with a retractable bowsprit, the J105 was a breakthrough when Rod Johnstone designed it for J/Boats in 1991, and nearly 700 boats were built. Because it has relatively small jibs and spinnakers and a displacement hull, the boat is easy to sail, yet it still delivers excitement in a breeze. Teams frequently include more women and youth sailors than other classes, and we find that it’s a great platform for a sailor with modest experience who wants to compete, but doesn’t have a super crew pool to start.

If you climb aboard with three sails and an enthusiastic crew, you can quickly learn to jibe the chute. It takes a while to learn to get the most out of the boat when it’s underpowered, under 10 knots of wind, but that may be why the best sailors in this class tend to be the most persistent, gradually becoming more competitive. The class has restrictions on pros participating, which has combined with the boat’s simplicity, all-around performance, and large fleet to give it staying power as a class.

The J105 combines simplicity with all-around performance and large fleets.

What’s involved in crewing?

Most teams sail with five or six sailors, and they include many husband-wife teams. There is no limitation on the number of sailors aboard; the total crew weight allowed is 474 kilograms or 1,045 pounds. In windy venues, such as San Francisco Bay, most teams sail at maximum weight, and those with less weight and less strength make up for it by adding the sixth person.

We recommend recruiting a strong bow person to work the spinnaker around in jibes and pull it down at the leeward mark, and if they’re a little heavier than the typical bow person, it doesn’t seem to slow the boat down. On the other hand, the winches are adequately sized and the mainsail has enough purchase, so trimming isn’t overly physical, which means for those farther aft, quickness and the agility to move around is often more important than strength.

Top three J105 speed tips?

Spend time in the boat with a committed core crew.

Learn appropriate sail trim and rig tune, especially when windy.

Prep the hull and rig, clean the bottom, and save your best sails for big events.

What should buyers know when choosing a J105?

J/Boats isn’t building new boats currently due to low demand. Used boat prices range from $45,000-$90,000, and most are between $60,000 and $70,000. On older boats, you’ll commonly replace winches, the boom, and maybe the sprit.

We see that top competitors in the class often seek an older boat built before production shifted to the SCRIMP (resin-infusion) method, because the boats

are considered a little stiffer, with less weight in the hull and deck. By rule, the first 400 pounds of corrector weights on light boats can be added down low, although not in the keel sump. J/Boats points out that this “class wisdom” may be overstated because much of the SCRIMP boats’ weight is in a substantially heavier keel grid. They also point out that the hulls have more laminate stiffness and are less susceptible to water penetration in the core, particularly in the deck—a problem that needs to be addressed in many older boats.

One of the other big decisions is whether to buy a boat with a wheel or tiller. Many like using tiller steering due to its lighter weight and feel, but in a heavy-air locale, almost everyone chooses wheel steering for better control. Both configurations win regattas, so our recommendation is that you choose whatever you are most comfortable using.

Finally, it’s worth noting that J/Boats built a number of shoal-draft J105s over the years; you’ll want to buy one with a deep-draft keel to go racing.

How do you move a J105 around to regattas?

Double-axle J105 trailers are prolific in many regions as owners commonly trailer boats to events. If needed, you can often borrow a trailer. It’s not unusual for boats from both New England and California to meet at a regatta in the middle of the country. That doesn’t mean that rigging a boat is super quick. It takes most boat crews a day to get a boat ready to travel and another day to go back in the water.

How many sails are required?

The J105 class allows you to sail with two jibs, two spinnakers and one main, but the spinnakers are identical, so the second is typically an older kite kept as a spare. Sails can be changed between races, so a boat with a light and medium jib will switch sails as the breeze builds. In broad terms, a light-air jib is used in 0 to 10 knots, the medium covers 8 to 16, and the heavy can be used in 14 and above.

If the water is relatively flat, the medium jib will provide good speed in most winds strong enough to start a race. Because boats often come with a large inventory of used sails, many new owners find they can buy a new main, spinnaker and medium jib and be competitive, with older sails used for low-key races or daysailing.

The class sail-purchase limits are reasonably liberal. You can buy three sails in one year and then two sails, the next. The mains must be made of woven Dacron and may be made of heavier cloth for windy venues like San Francisco where they are subject to a fair amount of flogging. Laminated jibs are permitted, which includes recent approval for North’s more durable 3Di sails—both medium and light-air jibs. (

See North’s J105 sail products

Leading the jib sheet to the windward winch keeps weight on the high side and allows the mainsheet trimmer to adjust the trim.

J105 Tuning

What are the keys to rig set-up.

When tuning up the J105 to race, we pay the most attention to 1) mast-butt position, 2) headstay sag, and 3) shroud tension on the D1 (lower), D2 (intermediate), cap (upper).

There is only one correct butt position, so you only need to set that once, as per the

North Sails Tuning Guide

. The guide also explains how to adjust each set of shrouds for different wind strengths. We stress learning about this because shroud tension affects headstay tension and how much the headstay sags under different loads.

Getting headstay sag right is also a little finicky, because the mast sits at different heights from boat to boat, varying by as much as 25mm due to the way the interior pan goes into the hull. To determine your headstay sag, we recommend sighting up the headstay with the backstay off —no more than 4 inches when it’s breezy and closer to 6 inches in light air. If you’re flying a medium jib in light air, you may need more sag, yet not so much that the headstay begins to bounce around in chop. Having enough sag in light air gives power to your jib, but if you have too much and you control it by tensioning the backstay as the wind comes up, you’ll end up over-flattening your main.

Shroud tension also affects mid-mast sag. In lighter airs, you want less tension on the D1 and D2 shrouds so you can see 25 mm of leeward sag in the middle of the mast. In 12 knots and up, you’ll want no sag at all.

What other control systems are important on the J105?

Setting up to cross-sheet the jib (and then practicing your tacks) is critical in windy conditions, as is having good leverage on the vang. You are not allowed to in-haul the jib with the windward sheet, so that simplifies things somewhat. Mainsheets have fine tunes and you’ll find some variation. For example, some are led outboard so the helmsman can play the fine tune. Our view is that this is an area of personal preference and probably not a high priority for you if you’re a new J105 helmsperson. Let the mainsail trimmer handle the job while you focus on steering.

Headstay sag on the J105 is adjusted by means of shroud tension; the sag should be about 6 inches in light air and no more than 4 inches when breezy.

J105 Upwind Sailing

How much heel is fast on a j105.

In general, you should sail the boats pretty flat. A skilled driver will keep it flatter, but most important is to maintain a constant heel angle and consistent speed. If you need more heel to maintain consistency, that’s OK.

Where does the crew sit?

The boats are a bit stern heavy, so we always work to keep people forward and out of the cockpit. This is especially true with wheel boats, which have extra weight aft. If sailing with six, locate one person forward of shrouds; everyone else should be forward of the back edge of the cabinhouse; if sailing with five, sit the forward-most three close together, just behind the shrouds, followed by the mainsheet trimmer when he or she is able to get on the rail.

When the wind lightens, there’s no fore-and-aft position change, just lateral movement, with the jib trimmer moving to leeward first. When possible, we move everyone a half a body width farther forward, with the mainsail trimmer scooting to the front of the cockpit. In heavier air, bring the forward-most person behind the shrouds to keep weight at max beam.

How do you trim the J105 jib?

The key move we make with the jib is to keep halyard tension soft, especially with new jibs. Be sure to put trim stripes on the spreaders as per the

North Tuning Guide

The jib likes to be kept twisted, with the leech opened up slightly even as the sheet is trimmed pretty hard. Above 10 knots, you will sheet hard enough that you may begin to get a wrinkle between the tack and the clew.

Watching for that is a good way to judge sheet tension. Many people move the lead too far forward because the foot looks abnormally tight, but it’s fast this way. Keep in mind that both jib and main will need to be twisted.

In breeze, the J105 jib is sheeted hard with the lead far enough aft to keep the leech open.

How do you trim the J105 main?

Again, we focus on halyard tension on the mainsail—it’s critical. Until it gets breezy, don’t over-tension the halyard; you should have diagonal wrinkles from the slides on the luff. Also, your outhaul should be tight.

Many people think they should always be streaming their top mainsail telltale, but because the top batten is full length, in reality it’s hard to stall the top. The sails are designed with a lot of twist in them so you can sheet hard as it gets windier. We recommend even in 8 knots that the top telltale should be stalled 60 percent of the time. The extra leech tension has the added benefit of pulling the headstay tighter, too, minimizing headstay sag.

The J105 doesn’t like much heel. From 11 knots up, our team is fully hiked, and at 15 knots, we’re pulling on the permanent backstay and tightening the cunningham. The backstay flattens the main well and begins to twist open the sail again, minimizing heel and weather helm. That’s the real trick on this boat. Set the rig tune so your trim and your backstay work for both sails at the same time. If the headstay gets too saggy and the main gets too flat, you probably don’t have enough cap and D2 tension.

The vang becomes critical in a breeze. In 8 to 10 knots, pull the vang snug. As the boat begins to get overpowered, pull it on firm. When using a lot of twist, it’s time for a two-hand pull, with feet against the cabinhouse. For the sake of your boom and mainsail, remember to ease the vang at the weather mark and let the cunningham off.

How do you shift gears upwind?

Besides hiking when the wind increases, shifting gears begins with adjusting the jib leads—moving the lead aft increases twist in the leech, which makes a big difference. The factory tracks have wide spacing between holes, so drill extra holes, one per inch.

You should quickly move to maximize outhaul on the mainsail, apply backstay as needed, and begin easing your traveler down in the puffs. Don’t hesitate to add a lot of vang tension so you can ease mainsheet instead of traveler; as a rule, the traveler car rarely moves lower or higher than the bench seats on either side of the cockpit.

Who says what when sailing upwind?

We like to have a crew on the rail calling the puffs consistently, so the main trimmer can be proactive in keeping the boat upright. Likewise, calling the waves allows for better steering and easing of sheets in lighter air. Dialogue between the helm and main trimmer is critical—and even more so when using a wheel because the driver is less likely to feel the pressure on the rudder.

The conversation when it’s windy is usually about having more or less twist in the sails. Is there too much helm and we’re going too slow? Twist the leeches. Not enough height? Reduce twist. The best sailor on many J105s is often the main trimmer because she is dialed in to both sail trim and boatspeed.

Keep weight forward and low when sailing a J105 downwind, with two crew forward of the shrouds in lighter conditions.

J105 Downwind Sailing

Where are j105 crew located.

Keep weight forward, out of cockpit. People also tend to stand a lot, but it’s faster to get down, keeping weight lower. On most boats, the main trimmer is at the companionway and the chute trimmer is at or ahead of the forward edge of the cockpit. All others move forward: in 0-8 knots, put two crew forward of the shrouds; in 9-16 knots, they can move just aft of the mast.

The boat likes to be sailed fairly flat and, ideally, the helm goes neutral. If it’s light enough that you’re sailing VMG angles, you’ll have some crew to leeward for a slight leeward heel. In running conditions of 10-plus knots, all crew will move to weather and sail the boat flat. Over 12, you sail with a little weather heel, and when control becomes an issue at 16-plus, the crew slides aft. In 20-plus, a couple guys are sitting in the cockpit.

How do you trim the spinnaker?

On a J105 downwind, the basic moves are to ease the chute as far as possible and rotate it in front of the boat as much as you can. The main should be all the way out and the vang kept soft.

The all-purpose and heavy-air spinnakers are the same size—the latter has bigger corner patches and a slightly different design to maximize projection. On both, the class-legal maximum luff is two feet short of ideal, so we generally sail with the tack line eased. This helps rotate the chute to windward—a good guide is not to ease it more than the height of the pulpit. As the breeze builds, you may trim down the tack line to within a foot of the pole.

The key to speed is the conversation and coordination between helm and trimmer. In light air, we look for an angle where the boat feels good, with slight heel to leeward. The mistake that people often make is to heat up the boat too much in lulls and soak it too low in puffs. You need to smooth that out. Yes, you do scallop your way down the course, but do it gently. The good guys gain a lot this way, and for everyone else, this is one of the best areas to practice and improve.

How do you shift gears downwind?

The key transition downwind is in 9 to 11 knots, learning when you can sail deep and when to keep the boat sailing higher and faster. The tack line on the spinnaker is a good focal point for this: If the tack moves to leeward of vertical, pull the tack line toward the pole; if to weather, ease it out, with a total range of two or three feet.

Another way to think of this is that in light air, when sailing VMG angles, the tack line is pulled towards the sprit and the main is trimmed for the angle. In medium air, when sailing deeper, the tack line is eased the most. Then, when control is an issue, tighten the tack line, which keeps the chute from oscillating.

Another downwind tip is to “fraculate”—taking slack out of the headstay by trimming in the sheets on the rolled-up jib. This firms up the backstay and transfers the energy in the sails more directly to the hull.

Near a leeward mark or at a finish line, you can also sail wing and wing, with the spinnaker on the opposite side from the mainsail. This takes practice and should be reserved for tactical situations, say the last five or six boatlengths to the mark. You can sail lower and just as fast, but don’t try it for extended periods; you risk collapsing the chute and losing more distance overall.

In 12 knots of breeze, most J105 crew stay out of the cockpit and at or just aft of the mast. To "fraculate" or keep the rig steady with backstay eased, tension the jib sheets to remove headstay slack.

J105 Boathandling

What are your top tips to starting well in a j105.

The J105 has a big keel and rudder, so you can sail pretty slowly before the start and not slide sideways much when you accelerate. However, the boat takes time to get up to speed. Practice accelerating from half speed to full speed before each race to learn how long it will take. Never let the boat stop or get too far from the line.

You’ll see many J105 teams wait to unfurl their jib in the last minute before starting, because visibility is better and, without a luffing jib, it’s easier to hold position on the line. When doing so, keep your bow at a fast angle to the wind so you can unroll the jib and accelerate quickly. The one time we never keep our jib rolled is when the wind is really light—if you get totally parked, the rest of the fleet may be long gone by the time you get moving.

What are the keys to tacking a J105 well?

Tacking the jib is pretty easy because it’s not a big sail, so you only need two trimmers in the cockpit. The other crew members go over the coach roof and keep their weight forward. This also gives the helmsperson more visibility.

How the trimmers work depends on whether your jib sheet 1) leads to a footblock and a leeward winch, 2) to a footblock and a windward winch, or 3) directly to a cabintop winch.

In light air, the cabin top winch set-up can be handled by the jib trimmer and the next person forward, and this has the advantage of keeping weight forward. However, those winches aren’t set up for breezy conditions.

We prefer sheeting to the primaries and having the main trimmer handle the jib-sheet release. The jib trimmer is the next person off the rail and trims the new sheet. This is also where cross-sheeting really pays as the jib trimmer is immediately moving to windward, not grinding away down to leeward. The main trimmer can then help out by dropping in the winch handle and doing the final trim after the jib trimmer starts hiking.

Most boats have self-tacking traveler cars. When tacking, the main trimmer can ease the mainsheet fine tune a little, release the jib, pull up the traveler, and then drop the handle in for the jib trimmer (if cross sheeting).

So the boat can accelerate, don’t bring the jib in too hard right away. Put multiple marks on the jib sheets to line up with the base of windward winch (if cross-sheeting), and after trimming to the first mark, the jib trimmer can hit the rail and the final five inches of jib sheet can be ground in by the main trimmer.

What are the keys to jibing a J105 well?

A good J105 jibe is a dance between the rates at which the driver turns the boat and the trimmer eases the spinnaker. As the boat bears away and the sheet is eased, the driver needs to watch the clew of the chute; when it gets to the headstay, the boat can be turned more quickly as the new sheet is taken up quickly. If you turn too fast without easing the sheet enough, or if you turn too slow, the chute ends up on the windward side of the headstay when the turn is complete.

On many boats, especially in lighter-wind areas, one trimmer will handle both spinnaker sheets. On other boats and in more breeze, it’s common to have two sheet trimmers for more consistency in ease and take-up. Either way, the foredeck person and sometimes others drag the new sheet around the headstay and aft. It’s important to pull the chute through the jibe this way to avoid a twist, then get to the high side quickly to help the boat accelerate. Keeping crew weight on the high side before the jibe will also help the boat turn.

In light-air jibes, don’t turn the boat too fast or pull the main across too soon. Jibe the spinnaker first. Then the mainsail trimmer should grab all parts of mainsheet and “pop” the main through to keep the upper leech from hanging up on the backstay. In heavy air, on the other hand, don’t take too long to get main across. Get it across while the boat is at full speed. Otherwise you may have to turn the boat too far to get the main over, and then you may round up when you finish the jibe. One helpful trick is to ease the vang a little bit.

How do you make a fast spinnaker set?

There are two rules to remember on J105 spinnaker sets: First, the bow must be at the windward mark before the bow person pulls the pole out to extend the sprit. Second, to set the spinnaker successfully, keep it out of the water by not pulling the tack line out too soon.

The bow person begins the set by freeing the chute from the forward hatch. Wait to start the hoist until the boat makes its turn. When it’s windy, as the mast person hoists, both the bow person and jib trimmer pull the tack line out to its mark. Next, the bow person can roll up the jib.

If a jibe-set is needed, there are two approaches you can take: one is to re-rig the chute on the correct side of the boat and hoist as the boat jibes. The other option is for the bow person to walk the clew around the headstay during the hoist, or even before you hoist.

Sailing wing and wing with the spinnaker can be a useful tactical move; keeping weight forward in light air is always faster.

What are the keys to a good spinnaker takedown on the J105?

Most people douse the spinnaker to windward. Leeward drops are harder, in part because the chutes are wide and easy to shrimp (drop in the water). Either way, if you make sure to have room to turn the boat downwind, any takedown will become easier.

On a normal windward takedown, after the jib is unrolled, the helmsman bears off and the trimmer eases the spinnaker sheet. The bow person pulls (aka “tractors”) the clew around to the windward side of the jib as the halyard starts to come down. One crewmember stands below and pulls the chute through the forward hatch. If it’s windy, don’t blow the tack line too soon to keep the chute clear of the water—make sure the spinnaker is collapsing and that two crewmembers have a good grip on the material.

On a leeward takedown: the bow person grabs the lazy sheet and with the crewmember below pulls the chute under the jib and down the hatch. On these drops, don’t release the tack line until the sail decompresses and you’re able to pull the spinnaker straight down.

What are the most common takedown mistakes?

The most frequent error we see is simple—the spinnaker sheet isn’t eased enough so the bow person can’t pull the chute around the jib. The other one is also simple—if you do shrimp your kite, you must completely stop the boat before you can pull it back aboard.

How do you recover from a broach?

Most broaches don’t last long; once you ease the spinnaker sheet, the boat will pop back up. Remember to ease the main and the boomvang as you start to broach, and your recovery may be immediate.

What J105 best practices do you recommend?

Set daily objectives. Evaluate after sailing so you can step forward next time.

Identify crew responsibilities.

Mark everything so you can duplicate settings, especially jib leads and sheets.

Practice tacking and jibing; choreograph movements so you repeat them every time.

Document rig tune and settings.

What’s the coolest thing about the J105 class?

The J105 class is very friendly and well-organized.

You’ll find some really good technical sailors who know about rig tune and are willing to share knowledge. We recommend new people in the class find a more experienced buddy and ask if you can sail together at events. Watch, observe, ask questions, and you’ll improve steadily.

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On its 10th birthday, the J/105 enjoys an immensely strong class association fueled by a group of owners who wouldn?t sail any other way than fast and easily. Problems with the boat are few, and right out front.

Some years ago – never mind how long precisely – Rodney Johnstone, a Connecticut schoolteacher, changed careers and became an ad salesman for a marine magazine. Then, still unsatisfied, he enrolled in the Westlawn School of Yacht Design. He didn’t graduate, but he did became so successful designing the line of J-Boats that the school gave him an honorary degree so it could use his name in advertisements.

This Horatio Alger story begins appropriately enough with rags, in this case, Ragtime, the prototype of the J/24 Rod built in his garage. During its first season of racing on Long Island Sound, 1976, the flat-bottomed speedster took 17 of 19 starts. Rod’s brother Robert (Bob) was marketing manager for Alcort/AMF, and asked his bosses if they’d like to build Ragtime on a production basis. In one of the few missed opportunities ever to occur in the sailing industry, an industry where “no” is usually the smart choice, they indeed said no.

Ha. So Bob did what any self-respecting man would do – he quit. J-Boats was formed by the brothers in 1977, and Everett Pearson’s TPI began building the J/24. By 1986 more than 4,200 had been sold. By 1997, there were more than 5,200.

The appeal of the J/24 is partly due to just those numbers; there are large, competitive fleets around the U.S. and the world. J-Boats licensed builders in Australia, Japan, Italy, England, France, Brazil and Argentina. But it’s more than that. The J/24 is an affordable option for people who want to race one-designs bigger than daysailers, but don’t have a hundred grand a year and more for grand prix racing. If you really want to do Key West Race Week, the J/24 can be trailered behind the family car.

While the J/105 isn’t nearly as trailerable as the 24 (an ad for the boat states flatly that it’s “for people who live near where they sail”) it does echo that theme of maximum bang and flexibility for the buck for people who intend to sail rather than sit still.

Introduced in 1992, the J/105 isn’t alone in the sport-boat genre, but it was certainly a progenitor of the species. PS editor Doug Logan, reviewing the boat for Sailing World soon after its appearance, saw a confluence of ideas that had been expressed in widely different types of boats – like Bill Lee sleds, Farrier’s trimarans, and Schumacher’s racer/cruisers – coming together in the J/105. The staggering idea at the time was the flat rejection of interior volume and cushiness in favor of simplicity, performance, and good looks. And this in a boat that was intended to cruise at least a bit, as well as race as a one-design. It was truly a bold move on Rod Johnstone’s part – and it has worked, though more on the racing side than on the cruising side. In its 10-year production run, more than 500 J/105s have been built.

The Design Like most other J-Boats, the 34-1/2-foot, 7,750-pound J/105 is for people who enjoy speed and responsiveness. If you drive a Lincoln Town Car, buy a Tartan 4600. If you drive a Boxster, buy a J/105.

Anyone who has planed a daysailer knows the thrill of getting the hull up out of the water and boogeying. “Now,” designers like Rod Johnstone must have mused, “if only you could do that on a bigger keel boat.”

The speed available in a keelboat today was almost unthinkable before George Hinterhoeller, who no doubt had the same musings, designed and built his breakthrough Shark 24, way back in 1959. One Shark averaged more than 10 knots in an 80-mile race.

Rod Johnstone gets speed the same way Hinterhoeller did, with light weight, a flattish bottom, and a big rig. The J/105’s displacement/length ratio (D/L) is just 135, which makes it a very light displacement boat, and a sail area/displacement ratio (SA/D) of 24. These numbers make even the J/35, arguably one of the most successful mid-size racers of the modern era, look tame by comparison: D/L of 174 and SA/D of 21.

Overhangs are minimal and the waterline is long, at 29′ 6″. Beam is generous at 11′ for good form stability, draft is deep (6′ 6″) for ultimate stability, freeboard is low to reduce windage, and the cockpit is long, so there’s room for the crew, whether racing or just fooling around. The seats are 6′ 5″, sufficient yardage to sleep on. A 5′ 6″ shoal keel is available, and the one of choice in areas like the Chesapeake Bay. The limit of positive stability (LPS) is given at between 125° and 127° for shoal draft models, and about 130° for the deep keel. These exceed the generally accepted minimum of 120° for offshore sailing.

The J/105 has the same bow as the J/80, J/90 and others in the line; that is, a minimally raked profile with more curve and not as much “plumbness” (if there is such a word) on paper as appears in the water. From a purely aesthetic point of view, the line isn’t that interesting, but here form follows function. It does what it’s supposed to. The reverse transom has a molded cavity with ladder for swimming and boarding.

The keel is a deep, narrow fin with a slightly raked leading edge. You don’t want to hit a rock with this configuration, as you’re unlikely to ride over it. And if you do, check the floors under the cabin floorboards to see if you’ve wrenched anything.

The cabin is low profile, befitting a performance boat, with just two windows per side.

The rig is fractional, to permit bending the mast for optimal sail shape.

Construction All J-Boats are built by TPI in Warren, Rhode Island, using the patented SCRIMP process. We’ve written about it before. In a nutshell, the fiberglass structures, principally the hull and deck, are laid up dry; that is, without resin. Layers of biaxial fiberglass fabric are laid into the mold, then sealed in a plastic “envelope” or bag as it were. A polypropylene woven fabric is spread on top of the laminate so there’s room for the resin to migrate vertically. When a vacuum is applied, air is sucked out of the envelope and resin is drawn in through a network of feeder tubes. This enables the builder to achieve a 70:30 glass-to-resin ratio, thought by many to be the ideal mix (some think it’s a little thin on the resin, preferring 65:35 or even 60:40).

With so little resin in the laminate, a core is definitely required to restore stiffness. J-Boats and TPI favor Baltek end-grain balsa, in this case its AL600 product. There are on the owners’ website a few complaints about print-through (seeing the pattern of the underlying fiberglass through the gelcoat) and flat spots where gelcoat is nearly absent.

As an aside, a major benefit of closed-molding techniques, in which the chemical reaction of the resin and catalyst takes place inside a bag and the resultant gases are exhausted directly out of the building, is a much cleaner air environment for the worker – and fewer headaches for the builder trying to meet EPA and OSHA guidelines for volatile organic compounds (VOCs).

TPI was a pioneer in studying and offering anti-blister protection. Today it uses a vinylester resin from Interplastic as an outer coat, under the gelcoat. A 10-year warranty against blistering is given.

The hull is stiffened by fore-and-aft and transverse solid glass hat sections molded with the hull at the time of initial lay-up. Before hull #156, these keel stringers and floor members were solid glass tabbed in after the hull was molded. The new method avoids secondary bonding, which is not as strong, where the beams (often wood or foam) are glassed to the finished hull. A superior secondary bond is achieved when the hull resin is still “green,” but nothing beats laying everything up together.

The main structural bulkhead is tabbed to the hull and deck, which is far preferable to the all-too-common practice of fitting the bulkhead into a molded groove in the headliner.

The keel stub is fiberglass and the ballasted bulb is lead.

The balanced spade rudder is fiberglass, as is the rudderpost, which is laid up with a quadraxial fabric. There are upper and lower bearings, and both have been a source of aggravation for many owners. According to the J/105 owners’ website, the bearings are aluminum, which corrode when in contact with the copper in bottom paint. Jeff Johnstone says they have a three-to-five year life, “sometimes even shorter if sacrificial zincs were allowed to dissolve, or if the Mylar spacer between the stainless and aluminum was removed, or if there was bottom paint on metallic parts of bearing, or simply if the bearing was not regularly rinsed out with fresh water a few times per season.”

Some owners have been replacing them with Harken plastic bearings, but now other sources must be found because Harken is no longer making bearings. The retrofit is not an easy job, say the owners who’ve done it.

Standard steering is a laminated wood tiller with Spinlock hiking stick. Wheel steering is optional, and boats with it command slightly higher resale prices. At least one owner said a tiller-steered boat can be hard to handle in heavy weather, but it’s hard to beat the feel of a tiller, and its simplicity must be admired.

Another steering-related problem has been the emergency tiller. Some owners say their tiller attaches at right angles to the centerline, so that when the rudder is centered, the tiller is hard to port. Other owners said their tiller didn’t fit when the boat was commissioned. These problems are correctable and should be checked out on purchase, new or used.

The Bomar hatch on the foredeck has been a source of aggravation. It’s opened when changing sails, and when laid flat on deck the welds in the frame are prone to cracking. (This stainless steel hatch is of good quality, but not as good as Bomar’s cast aluminum series of hatches). At first Bomar thought they should take responsibility and replaced a number at no cost. When it was determined that deck camber and opening past 180° combined to cause the failures, a deal was worked out with J-Boats to offer for $35 a bumper (to prevent opening the hatch beyond 180°) and a weld repair kit.

Remaining complaints include failure of cockpit seat locker hasps, cove stripes that are not straight or not of a uniform width, or that there are scribe marks for a cove stripe that doesn’t exist.

Interior The accommodation plan is straightforward with a 7′ V-berth in the bow. Moving aft there’s an enclosed head with optional shower, and a hanging locker. The split galley is just aft of the main bulkhead, with a nav table to port and a stainless steel sink and space for an optional one-burner Origo alcohol stove to starboard. The ice box is actually a 54-quart portable cooler kept under the companionway ladder. Obviously it can’t be as well insulated as a built-in icebox, but it does save weight, and that’s the operative concept here. The portable freshwater tank holds just 5 gallons.

Opposing 6-1/2′ settee berths are port and starboard, with stowage bins outboard. These have gray vinyl trim and cold-molded teak cap moldings. Quarter berths (one or two) are optional, and seem to be favored by those owners who have them, though Johnstone says few boats are ordered that way. Length is 6-1/2′.

The trim theme is light and easy maintenance. The overhead and ceilings (hull sides) are covered with vinyl. Seat cushions are upholstered with Sunbrella. If you spring for the optional cockpit cushions they can double as backrests for the settees; they certainly increase comfort.

Other options include automatic electric bilge pump, shore power, cockpit/cabin table, sink in the head countertop, 20-gallon freshwater tank under the starboard berth, utensil drawer in galley, and a chart drawer under the nav table big enough to hold Chart Kits. They all sound nice to have, but together must add several hundred pounds.

The standard forward portlights are fixed, but you can have opening ones with screens for an extra charge. It’s also possible to have two ports in the aft face of the cabin trunk, either side of the companionway.

The interior is simple, and therein lies its attractiveness. Too many boats grow overly complicated as owners try to replicate the comforts of home. The J/105 resists that urge and rewards the owner with more time sailing (faster sailing at that), and less time fixing things.

The original floorboards were said to be weak by many owners. Many rotted when water entered the exposed end grain of the plywood. The problem was caused by the shallow bilge (a drawback of flat-bottom boats); when the boat heeled, the bottom of the boards got wet. Later, the plywood was covered with a plastic, but some of these $700 boards delaminated because the end grain still wasn’t sealed. Now, Johnstone says, “The standard for the last three years has been the Wear-rite synthetic teak and holly sole, which is used on a lot of charter boats in the Caribbean and is much more forgiving of punishment.” J-Boats seems anxious to correct such problems and customer service seems to be quite good.

For many people, the most vexing problem will be the headroom – just 5′ 4″ in the saloon, unless you stand in the open companionway hatch under the dodger. The lack of headroom isn’t an acute problem for everyone, since virtually everything belowdecks is done sitting, lying down, or bending over. The low overhead would, however, become tedious if you were cooped up for several days on board in rainy weather.

Performance Now the fun part. The J/105 is fast and handles like a sports car. Indeed, sprit boats like the 105 created the so-called “sport boat” genre.

Powering the 105 is a tall, keel-stepped, tapered fractional-rig mast with double airfoil spreaders. Mast and boom are painted with Awlgrip polyurethane. All stays are Navtec rod. Shrouds are continuous, meaning they are a single piece; this avoids potential problems at extra terminal fittings, such as at spreaders, but requires careful bending of the guide tubes at the spreader tips. Continuous or discontinuous, rod rigging saves weight aloft and reduces windage.

On early boats, the balsa core in the deck was not removed in the area where chainplates pass through. Because chainplates work on any boat, it’s nearly impossible to keep that interface watertight. As a result, some cores got waterlogged. On later boats, the core was removed in favor of solid glass. Then, the little bit of water that migrates down the chain plate causes no harm – unless it enters bolt holes drilled in plywood bulkheads. So, bulkheads should be checked, too.

Hardware includes a Harken furler for the jib, Lewmar 44AST 2-speed primary winches, Lewmar 30AST 2-speed halyard and secondary winches, Schaefer turning blocks, Spinlock rope clutches, Harken traveler and mainsheet systems, carbon fiber sprit with under-deck launching and retraction system, Sailtech backstay adjuster, and Hall Quick Vang. This is all top quality gear; Practical Sailor has long rated the expensive Quick Vang as the best rigid vang made.

The asymmetrical spinnaker is in a snuffer, so that jibing can be a one-person operation. The spinnaker can be partially reefed.

A number of owners have mentioned water entering the boat through the sprit tube in the forward cabin, inspiring a number of creative solutions involving neoprene rubber and various lip seals.

When Doug Logan test sailed an early J/105 10 years ago off Miami, conditions were ideal for showcasing the boat’s strengths – a 20-knot northeasterly and three-foot waves. “For the better part of an hour we maintained speeds between 12.5 and 13.5 knots, never lower than 12 and up to 14.8 at the top end. This wasn’t a stomach-churning reach either. We had excellent control of the boat, and didn’t have to work hard.”

On the way back upwind, the boat was overpowered due to the lack of a reefing line. “Even so, we made 7.5 knots with the sheets just slightly eased.”

(The full Sailing World review is on the J/105 page at the J-Boats website, www.jboats.com , under “Less Is More.”)

Owners say you can sail with full main and jib up to about 22-25 knots, after which they switch down to a storm jib, and at around 30 knots put a reef in the mainsail.

A class controversy involves adjustable genoa sheet leads. Class racing rules prohibit the use of block and tackle and bungy cord to move the car from the cockpit. Instead, a crewmember has to go on deck and manually move the car. If there’s a load on the car, rather than easing the sheet (and losing speed) some people try stepping on the sheet forward of the car so that it can be moved. This, say proponents of adjustable leads, is dangerous. Opponents say adjustable lead systems are expensive and unnecessary. Some owners have installed adjustable systems for general-purpose use, but have pins installed in the cars for use when racing.

The auxiliary is a Yanmar 2GM20F diesel, which means two cylinders, 20-horsepower, freshwater cooled. A number of owners note that it jumps around a fair amount on its soft mounts, which in some installations has made dripless shaft seals leak. For those owners, a better alternative might be one of the dripless packing materials, such as Drip Free, in a conventional packing gland.

Conclusion By all measures, the J/105 has been, and continues to be, a considerable success. The reasons are simple: It’s a simple boat that’s fast and fun to sail.

Several decades ago we judged quality by weight: the heavier the boat, the better the quality and the higher the cost. High-tech composite construction has turned that axiom inside-out. Now you pay more for less, so to speak: epoxy and vinylester resins cost more than polyester; modern directional and high-strength fabrics and fibers cost more than chopped strand mat and woven roving; and vacuum bagging and infused resin molding methods like SCRIMP cost more than chopper gun spray jobs and hand lay-ups. Further, the tapered spars used on J-Boats cost more than the telephone poles found on most boats. Then there’s the carbon fiber sprit, rigid boom vang, and other stuff that’s not part of your standard cruising boat package. All this is to try to explain the average out-the-door price of a new J/105 of about $150,000. Prices of recent-year used boats range from $85,000 to $130,000 depending on equipment and condition. Deals are better on older boats (see the price history on a 1992 model above). Bear in mind that most J/105s will have been sailed flat-out. They don’t seem to sit around the yard much.

Also With This Article Click here to view “Used Boat Price History: J/105 – 1992 Model.”

Contact – J-Boats, 401/846-8410, www.jboats.com .

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J/105 is a 34 ′ 6 ″ / 10.5 m monohull sailboat designed by Rod Johnstone and built by J Boats and Waterline Systems, LLC starting in 1995.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

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There is a reason the J/105 is the largest one design class of racing sailboats over 30' feet long. J/105's are fun to sail! whether it's a jaunt around the lake, or up the coast with family and friends or around the race course the J/105 is a lot of fun. Fast and friendly. This 1992 J/105 has the early layout with the Nav table located aft. It's a pre-scrimp boat. Hull #23. These early pre-scrimp J/105's are selling up to $100,000 when re-furbished. This J/105 has just completed a complete restoration. The bad core was replaced with OEM core with each individual cube sealed with epoxy and then vacuum bagged to make a "better then new" repair. This process was used on the deck and the hull where needed. The deck has new non skid in smoke grey. The hull topsides are new white awl grip and the bottom has new baltoplate bottom paint. The mast, boom, and spreaders have been stripped and painted with an aircraft grade etching primer and top coated in white awl grip. The wheel has been powdercoated in white. There's a BUNCH of sails that are included with the boat. The newest suite of sails are from UK and were only used one weekend. Triad Triple axle trailer available for an additional $10,000.

Make or Manufacturer

Length overall, length at waterline, displacement, fuel capacity.

Electrical Equipment

Electrical Circuit: 12V

Manufacturer Provided Description

J-105 gives the on-deck cruising comfort of a 40-45-footer and the speed of a Grand Prix racer. Though designed as a strict one-design for recreational fun with overnight capability, Sailing World's panel of experts selected her as the "Racer - Cruiser" Boat-of-the-Year for 1991 and 1992. With J-105, sailing is easier and smoother. No pitching, no rolling about and no panic drills. A sailor may never have to leave her comfortable cockpit. No feverish routines of course and sail changes. Only one jib to tend. Roll it in or out. Jibing this high-tech beauty is a one-person operation. Simply let go of the old sheet, then trim in the new one. Good-bye big racing crews. Hello fun and relaxation. J-105's asymmetric spinnaker enables reach at a fast 90-degree apparent wind angle, while actually sailing a deep 155 degrees from the true wind. The carbon-fiber bowsprit retracts. Whether blowing 5 mph or 20 mph, J-105's asymmetric spinnaker adds a whole new dimension to sailing enjoyment in five ways: 1) it's safer - less deck clutter plus total snuffing or partial quick-reefing from the cockpit; 2) it's easier - one person controlling all sails; 3) it's smoother, with a better-balanced sail plan which helps in steering out of trouble; 4) it's stiffer due to the spinnaker's lower center of area and flat, open leech; and, 5) it's faster over waves, thanks to the power and lift of this unique spinnaker design. Sailing trials in adverse weather conditions clearly demonstrated the superior handling qualities of this design. The Dacron mainsail on sailslides, a single roller-furling jib, the dodger and spinnaker-in-a-snuffer make this design easier to sail, quicker to stow and more fun to own than conventional racers and cruisers.

Equipment List

General J/105 Specifications Listed boat may not contain listed options. J - 105 Specifications - Standard Equipment Hull & Deck o Lloyd's approved, aircraft grade AL600 epoxy coated CK57 (6 lbs.-cu.ft.) Baltek end-grained balsa laminate construction using biaxial glass fabrics and SCRIMP molding technology. An Interplastic vinylester resin barrier coat allows a ten-year hull warranty against blisters. o White (other colors optional) gel coat hull. o Large sit-in cockpit with 6.5' seats with backrests, suitable for cockpit cushions. o One lazarette storage locker and two cockpit seat storage lockers w- flush spring loaded latches. o Swimming and boarding platform sculptured into aftface of full height transom with integral ladder. o Cockpit coamings 2.5" high over sidedecks to channel water aft. o Molded companionway slide-in seahood w- dodgerboss - instrument pod. o ORC size molded-in foredeck toe-rails. o Stainless steel handrails on cabin trunk. o GRP molded main structural bulkhead, bonded fore & aft on hull and deck as support for shroud chainplates with single opening to forepeak. o Solid fiberglass transverse keel support beams. o Fabricated aluminum mast step with transverse beams fastened to main bulkhead. o Lead and antimony fixed 6.5' draft, fin keel with bulb bolted to a deep molded stub. (5.5' shoal draft option) Mechanical & Steering o Yanmar 2GM20F 20 hp, 2 cylinder, diesel engine with 50 amp alternator and Martec folding prop. o Yanmar engine instrument panel in cockpit with acrylic cover. o Morse control, combination gear shift and throttle. o 12-gallon alloy fuel tank with baffles and inspection - clean out port. o Balanced spade rudder constructed using E-glass and large diameter shaft mounted in Harken bearings. o o Harken Unit - 1 headsail furler o Two Lewmar 44AST, 2 speed primary winches with 44:1 power ratio. o Two Lewmar 30AST, 2 speed halyard (& secondary) winches aft on cabin trunk. o Double sheave deck organizers (P&S) recessed in dodger spray shield molding. o Two lock-in Harken winch handles (8" & 10"). o Two PVC winch handle holders o Aluminum mast collar. o 4 Schaefer 32-16 mast mounted turning blocks o Two double Spinlock rope clutches aft on the cabin top. Port is main halyard and jib halyard. Starboard is for cunningharn - reef and spinnaker halyard. o Two Schaefer 08-91 jib sheet blocks on a 3 foot 40-74 1.25" x 3-16" clear anodized "T" track with 34 min hole spacing and aft end stops. o One Harken 238 camcleat for headsail furler o One Lewmar rope clutch for spinnaker tack line. o Two Harken 150 camcleats with 137 eyestraps mountedon starboard side of cabin trunk for snuffer control lines. o One Harken 004 double-block with becket to mount on sprit-end for snuffer controls and tack line (through becket). o Harken mid-sized traveler track recessed in cockpit seat with Harken "windward sheeting", self-tacking traveler car with 4:1 system using end stops, and 2 Schaefer 300-31 cheek blocks mounted at end of track (top flush with seat). Control lines pass through Harken 166 swivel bullet blocks mounted with 097 springs on 281 eyestraps outboard of traveler. o 6:1 mainsheet system using a Harken 1540 single and 1544 double on separate boom bales and a 1560 fiddle with becket on the traveler car. Coarse adjustment sheet tail leads to a center-mounted heavy duty 144 swivel base with camcleat on 195 riser and Hexacat #170 single ratchet (without integral cam) mounted under a 24:1 fine tune system achieved by adding 4:1 tackle using 060 Fiddle with Hexaratchet & Becket and 053 Fiddle attached to mainsheet end. o Custom double-rail stainless bow pulpit and dual corner stern rails with transom gate. o Low profile mounted roller furling drum system on stemhead with control line aft to port side of cabin trunk where tail can be used on primary winch. o Tapered lifeline stanchions with heavy duty deck plates. o Four 4-bolt mooring cleats. o Double Harken 654 foot blocks to lead spinnaker and jibsheets behind raised dodger to any of 4 winches. o Harken cams for lazy spin sheets mounted just aft of primary winches. o Bow chocks port and starboard. o Two heavy duty "U" bolts aft for spinnaker sheet blocks. o Lewmar 20x20 articulated foredeck hatch. o Lewmar 10x10 vent hatch in head. o Two 3530 Bomar 5x30 bronze tinted fixed ports in sides of cabin trunk and two fixed recessed bronze tinted ports in head area. o Lightweight, cored, low-profile companionway sliding hatch and acrylic offshore dropboard with inside - outside opening hasp. o Cockpit operated Henderson bilge pump. o Three 12"x 20" polypropylene mesh line bags. o Custom SS chainplates, stemhead and backstay tang. Electrical o One 115 amp deep-cycle battery. o Guest battery switch. o Electrical panel w- circuit breakers o Navigation & steaming lights. o All chainplates with lightning grounds o Six swivelling halogen reading lights. o One fluorescent light in head. o Coaxial cable run in lieu of messengers from (a) hanging locker to nav station, (b) nav station to starboard instrument recess in cabin trunk, (c) starboard to port instrument recess. Spars & Rigging o Tapered 6061 T6 aluminum, fractional-rig mast with double airfoil spreaders plus boom in Awlgrip off white. o Below-decks mast ventilation holes. o Navtec continuous rod rigging and turnbuckles. o Custom 4.25" diameter, carbon fiber, retractable J-Sprit with 1:2 under-deck Harken launching system using pole control line from dead-end hole in the forward bulkhead outboard of sprit, through two Harken thru-deck big bullets in the butt of the sprit; to a Harken 001 secured to an 073 padeye thru-bolted to forward bulkhead taping inboard of the sprit; led to a bullseye thru-decks mounted in the main bulkhead and aft face of cabin trunk, exiting to be cleated on a 150 cam cleat. o Automatic sprit retraction system using 3-8" red shock cord attached to butt of sprit, then passing through an 022 dinghy block fixed to an 073 padeye on the hanging locker bulkhead, reversing forward through a bullseye fairlead on the sprit to an 023 swivel block fixed to an 073 padeye under the sprit opening on the forward bulkhead, back through the bullseye to the becket of the 023 block on the hanging locker bulkhead. o Hall Rigging running rigging package w- Aracom T Main & Jib Halyards, polyester jib main & spin sheets & spin halyard. Also includes reef line, cunningham, pole control, tack line, traveler control lines and main fine tune. o Sailtech -10 integral hydraulic backstay adjuster with 9.5" throw for -6 rod backstay. o Hall Quick Vang with integral cleating. o Main boom with # 1 reef stopper to port and #2 reef sheave on starboard side to double as cunningham with Schaefer 76-46 hook and Harken 001 block. o 6:1 internal mainsail outhaul on boom. Interior o Off-white Formica low-maintenance bulkheads and lightweight bin panels with gray vinyl trim, cold molded teak cap moldings. o Teak and holly style synthetic high-wear cabin sole with epoxy sealed end grain. o Storage bins outboard of settee berths. o Forward of the main bulkhead is a changing area, hanging locker and Raritan PH-2 marine head with flexible holding tank and "Y" valve for direct offshore discharge. o Holding tank, overboard discharge "Y" valve and pump. o Forward of the head area is a lightweight bulkhead with color coordinated acrylic canvas privacy curtain and V-berth with storage under. o Choice of Sunbrella acrylic fabrics for V-berth and main cabin settee cushions. Optional cockpit cushions double as settee backrests below. o Vinyl liner on cabin overhead and hull ceilings. o 12x18 mirror in head. o Polished stainless galley sink with fresh water foot pump and 5 gallon portable water tank with thru-hull drain. o Rugged 54 qt. top opening portable icebox under companionway ladder. J - 105 Optional Equipment Group Options Graphics Package o Two Tone Deck. o 1-2" Cove Stripe with "J" Insignia. Custom Wheel Package o Edson Diamond Series 48" White Aluminum Wheel with Natural Leather Grip; Ritchie 5" Binnacle Compass with Light; Custom GRP Molded Pedestal with SS Guard; Aluminum Emergency Tiller; White Vinyl Afterdeck & Sidedeck Cushions at Wheel. o Bomar Bronze Tinted Main Cabin Opening Ports, Dual Purpose Sunbrella 3" Acrylic Cockpit - Settee-Backrest Cushions with Light Color (Stone or Linen) on One Side to Match Non-Skid, Four Custom Acrylic Covered AC Hose Lifeline Covers for Helmsman to Match Dodger Color, Mainsail Cover to Match Dodger with J-105 Logo. Systems Group Package: o Automatic Electric Bilge Pump with check valve and Panel Switch for Manual Operation; Sink in Vanity Counter of Forward Head With Foot Pump and drain into Head Bowl, 20 Gallon Fresh Water Tank Under Starboard Berth with Deck Fill; Origo 2000CB 1-Burner Non-Pressurized Alcohol Stove with Cutting Board; 5x12x16 Utensil Drawer in Galley to hold Rubbermaid Flatware Tray; 6x19x23 Chart & Utility Drawer under Nav Table to hold Chart Kits. Ventilation Group Package o Includes four opening ports w- screens, two in lieu of forward fixed ports and two at aft end of cabin trunk, screens for skylight hatches, and screens for companionway drop boards. Single Options o 110 volt shorepower w- 50 ft. cord, 2 outlets (without charger). o Genoa Tracks (use same lead blocks as jib) o Shoal Bulb Keel with 5.5' Draft. o Additional 90 amp battery o Stainless grab rails in main cabin o Shower attachment in head (requires systems group) o Ports on aft face of cabin house (2). o Removable cockpit - cabin table w- slide-out leaf, aluminum base and canvas storage bag.

Sail Inventory

2-Mains 2-Class Jibs 2-Genoa's 1 Class Apinnaker 89m2 1 Code 0 spinnaker Many nice sails also included suitable for club /delivery s

The Company offers the details of this vessel in good faith but cannot guarantee or warrant the accuracy of this information nor warrant the condition of the vessel. A buyer should instruct his agents, or his surveyors, to investigate such details as the buyer desires validated. This vessel is offered subject to prior sale, price change, or withdrawal without notice.

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