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Laser Mast step repair
Discussion in ' Sailboats ' started by Bigfork , Jul 26, 2016 .
Bigfork Junior Member
Hi folks. I've got an old 74 Laser that's really hammered and showing it's age. That said, it's still a great learner and she still boogies. It was the boat I learned on. She was owned by my neighbors while growing up. We would pack 5 kids on it, get dropped off at the launch on Flathead Lake, and then smash around on it all day with compulsory dumps, flips, and long paddles... I want my 1.5 year old to thrash around on this thing in a few years . The mast step has been failing for a while. 10 years ago I did a sloppy repair but the time is now to do it right. The pictures show the removal of the old repair and all funky glass on the edge of the sleeve. So I guess I'm looking for process/repair suggestions. My initial thought was to put a plastic wrapped cup in the socket and then glassing a mini "volcano" of filler and glass to basically raise the deck a 1/2 inch or so. Messy, not pretty, but strong. Now though, I think that seems a bit rash...(?) Should I do this: 1. using West 505, tape off underside of deck-sleeve seam (access through the black hatch), make peanut butter filler and goober a fillet in the hole using the tape beneath as a dam. 2. Use a small bit of cloth on the deck surface to cover the newly welded seam. You might be able to see in the picture, the sleeve has a couple of cracks that creep 2 inches down the tunnel. I was thinking of taking a dremel and mining out the crack (cleaning it and opening it a little). More goober in the mined out cracks and wrapping the bits of cloth down the hole a couple of inches to reinforce the sleeve, deck seam. Does this all sound logical? Should I remove the gel coat on the deck to the same measure of the glass fabric to keep things flush, save room for gel coat (likely some white rattle can)? Should I leave my patch filler "square" or do I feather things into the surface. Right now the opening is square-ed off as seen in the pics. I'm a little concerned about how to keep any glass or filler that wraps down the sleeve smooth. If it's a lumpy mess in the sleeve, the mast/sleeve relationship will be compromised...it's got to stay smooth. PS: I can go in through the black port and see my finger in the hole..ie it's open through. Thanks people! (and remember, I'm not after pretty--just strong and functional)
Attached Files:
P1040687.jpg, p1040683.jpg, p1040684.jpg.
tom28571 Senior Member
Laser used to offer a repair kit for the many mast steps that failed because of poor construction methods. I had to do one of those myself. Nasty job but necessary. Maybe they still offer it.
bruceb Senior Member
base repair Definitely try to find a repair kit if at all possible as it includes a whole new tube mated to a piece of deck. Check with a laser dealer or maybe someone at APSLTD that sells laser parts. The mast steps from your vintage used to fail when the bottom of the tube became separated from the hull bottom and then the whole tube cracked out of the deck. They could be saved from cracking if an access port was installed forward of the mast and the tube base properly glassed to the hull bottom, and I usually added some glass around the deck/tube from the inside as well. I think you could do about the same thing with yours if you added one other access port and did all the repairs with epoxy from the inside. Of course you will add several pounds, but it should be fine for your use. If your access ports are correctly located, you can also seal the top of the dagger board trunk to the deck and probably stop the usual leak there. B
Thanks, I'm aware of the mast step replacement kit. I'd rather not go that route as the general shape of the boat is not worth the labor and money for the replacement kit. The foot of the sleeve is still solid, it's just the wear at the top as the pictures show. Can I just fill and glass for a super simple fix that will last a few more years of limited use? thanks.
CT249 Senior Member
I had a complete mast tube failure that I just fixed by fitting a wooden ring at deck level. Last I heard, the sea scouts were still using that boat years later, so IMHO a simple fill and glass may be fine. However, make very, very sure the rake doesn't change. My boat was an old but goodie I got from someone I was coaching, just to keep my hand in. In the first championship race after I rebuilt the mast step, I scored more points (against me) than I had counted in the whole of my previous two championship series. Having the mast too upright by a couple of degrees had an enormous effect on upwind speed. I'd put the bottom section in and measure the rake before the repair, then check it after the repair and either fill or grind to make sure the rake was back to the right measurement. I basically blew up a great old warhorse by stuffing up my repair; don't make the same mistake. I miss that boat.
Skyak Senior Member
Bigfork said: ↑ Hi folks. I've got an old 74 Laser that's really hammered and showing it's age. That said, it's still a great learner and she still boogies. It was the boat I learned on. She was owned by my neighbors while growing up. We would pack 5 kids on it, get dropped off at the launch on Flathead Lake, and then smash around on it all day with compulsory dumps, flips, and long paddles... I want my 1.5 year old to thrash around on this thing in a few years . The mast step has been failing for a while. 10 years ago I did a sloppy repair but the time is now to do it right. The pictures show the removal of the old repair and all funky glass on the edge of the sleeve. So I guess I'm looking for process/repair suggestions. My initial thought was to put a plastic wrapped cup in the socket and then glassing a mini "volcano" of filler and glass to basically raise the deck a 1/2 inch or so. Messy, not pretty, but strong. Now though, I think that seems a bit rash...(?) Should I do this: 1. using West 505, tape off underside of deck-sleeve seam (access through the black hatch), make peanut butter filler and goober a fillet in the hole using the tape beneath as a dam. 2. Use a small bit of cloth on the deck surface to cover the newly welded seam. You might be able to see in the picture, the sleeve has a couple of cracks that creep 2 inches down the tunnel. I was thinking of taking a dremel and mining out the crack (cleaning it and opening it a little). More goober in the mined out cracks and wrapping the bits of cloth down the hole a couple of inches to reinforce the sleeve, deck seam. Does this all sound logical? Should I remove the gel coat on the deck to the same measure of the glass fabric to keep things flush, save room for gel coat (likely some white rattle can)? Should I leave my patch filler "square" or do I feather things into the surface. Right now the opening is square-ed off as seen in the pics. I'm a little concerned about how to keep any glass or filler that wraps down the sleeve smooth. If it's a lumpy mess in the sleeve, the mast/sleeve relationship will be compromised...it's got to stay smooth. PS: I can go in through the black port and see my finger in the hole..ie it's open through. Thanks people! (and remember, I'm not after pretty--just strong and functional) Click to expand...
tspeer Senior Member
Besides the deck/cup junction, another problem area on the Laser is the attachment of the mast cup to the bottom of the boat. I had that junction fail while sailing, and the mast ripped up the deck as it came down and levered the cup. It's a tough joint to assess, because there's no access to it. Perhaps it would be worthwhile to drill a hole through the bottom of the cup and hull and insert a bolt, solid rod, or fiberglass bundle that would ensure the shear stress at the bottom of the cup is not entirely reacted by the bond?
tspeer said: ↑ Besides the deck/cup junction, another problem area on the Laser is the attachment of the mast cup to the bottom of the boat. I had that junction fail while sailing, and the mast ripped up the deck as it came down and levered the cup. It's a tough joint to assess, because there's no access to it. Perhaps it would be worthwhile to drill a hole through the bottom of the cup and hull and insert a bolt, solid rod, or fiberglass bundle that would ensure the shear stress at the bottom of the cup is not entirely reacted by the bond? Click to expand...
Dave Gentry Junior Member
IIRC, the tube is somewhat oval at the deck, allowing the mast a bit of both forward and aft rake, depending on the point of sail. It's been a while since I was racing Lasers, though, so you might want to confirm before adding rings or whatnot. For what it's worth, I would likely glass the deck-to-step joint heavily from the inside, fill the exterior holes with thickened epoxy, then sand down any roughness and call it good. As a point of interest, I've actually been inside a Laser hull, entering through a mast step repair kit hole in the deck, to replace some floatation up front. Exiting was made possible by folks pulling on my feet. I was younger then, and a little skinnier.
BobBill Senior Member
Aolthough I am sure you have "fixed," (been lurking here) but I can offer one tardy but decent piece of advice, since the effort appears set... "Carbon," applied with care as filler and finish edges and would run a bit of tow around step opening. Should do the trick, unless other issues attend the step.
Hi folks. Haven't posted in a bit but here's my plan. Because this is just a crash-about boat I've decided against big operation-like the mast step repair kit. Since the tube/deck relationship is only about 30% compromised, I got a new plan. Imagine the area of damage is like a "crescent moon" on only one side of the relationship. I've already got it patched and fared. I sourced some 1" HDPE plastic. I'm going to cut a "doughnut" shape that perfectly fits the dimension of the sleeve. The hole is elongated as the exit through the deck is not a truly round hole (not sure if this is factory or just years of wear). I've got access to a CNC that's going to cut the elongated profile of the hole. This will then be stainless bolted thru the deck to a piece of doughnut greentreat ply beneath the deck, ringing the sleeve from underneath. It's essentially a collar that will help to displace the stress and load at the deck/sleeve joint. The mast will press upon the HDPE with equal pressure just like it does as is leaves the sleeve. Shouldn't change mast rake. The HDPE will sit proud of the deck by it's thickness (1") and basically make the mast sleeve an inch taller. So HDPE doughnut, some 3m5200, 5 stainless bolts/nuts, a chunk of marine ply inside, and done...KISS solution that should last years.
Bigfork said: ↑ Hi folks. Haven't posted in a bit but here's my plan. Because this is just a crash-about boat I've decided against big operation-like the mast step repair kit. Since the tube/deck relationship is only about 30% compromised, I got a new plan. Imagine the area of damage is like a "crescent moon" on only one side of the relationship. I've already got it patched and fared. I sourced some 1" HDPE plastic. I'm going to cut a "doughnut" shape that perfectly fits the dimension of the sleeve. The hole is elongated as the exit through the deck is not a truly round hole (not sure if this is factory or just years of wear). I've got access to a CNC that's going to cut the elongated profile of the hole. This will then be stainless bolted thru the deck to a piece of doughnut greentreat ply beneath the deck, ringing the sleeve from underneath. It's essentially a collar that will help to displace the stress and load at the deck/sleeve joint. The mast will press upon the HDPE with equal pressure just like it does as is leaves the sleeve. Shouldn't change mast rake. The HDPE will sit proud of the deck by it's thickness (1") and basically make the mast sleeve an inch taller. So HDPE doughnut, some 3m5200, 5 stainless bolts/nuts, a chunk of marine ply inside, and done...KISS solution that should last years. Click to expand...
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SamSam Senior Member
You could grind all around the deck where the mast hole is, wrap the mast in plastic or some other resin barrier, insert it and laminate around it. Probably seal the top of the mast/hole with some clay first to keep the resin from running down inside between the mast and the tube. Start with a bigger circle on the deck and then smaller and smaller until it's built up enough. Pull the mast and then sand the repair smooth, ending up with a smoothly tapered reinforcing ring similar to an ant hill. You should wrap the mast with enough stuff above the mast hole to give the same clearance as the original setup has, or give enough clearance to get the mast out and then finish size it by sanding with a tube wrapped in sandpaper.
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Starting the Mast Step Repair
This will be the first in a series of posts about replacing the mast step on our sailboat, a 1989 Sabre 36 named Glendi. The information here is both a summary of dozens of email discussions and phone calls with Sabre owners who have already dealt with this as well as an archival of my experience fixing the issue. My hope is that this can serve as a guide for anyone who encounters this problem to save some frustration and maybe even a few boats.
Distant early warnings
Do you have a Sabre that is keeled stepped? If yes, read on. Note, this is probably more expansive than necessary as the issue does seem to be limited to certain models and years, however better safe than sorry.
The first indication that we had suffered the dreaded mast step rot, or mast step disease, was a cracked mast step plate. We noticed this when launching the boat in the Spring. Note, we had purchased the boat just a year prior and:
- I knew about the issue when we bought it
- It was inspected by a surveyor
- My broker was a fellow Sabre owner
We all missed it.
This issue hides itself very well, and although the symptoms below are early warning signs, the only way to definitively tell is to remove the mast and drill test bores. If the bores come up wet, you’re cooked. If they are dry, thank Poseidon, throw some epoxy in the hole, and go sailing.
What are all the symptoms?
- Smelly bilge water when on a tack
- Deflection of the step itself
- Visible water damage to the sole around the step, usually in front of the head
- Visible water damage to the bulkhead next to the step
- Visible water damage to the step itself
- The step bulging out on the aft side that is visible when the floorboards are removed
- Cracked mast step plate (this happens because the step is deflected)
Why? Why?!!
Everyone worth their salt knows Sabres are very well made boats. So how could this happen? Why does it happen? Well, plain and simple it is a massive design flaw, and one that could have been very easily avoided. There are differing opinions as to how the water gets into the step itself, but simply put, water comes down the mast, and spreads out over the area around the step in all directions. It is not directed properly into the bilge and over time, finds a way to penetrate the wood inside the step. Since the wood is mostly sealed, it does not rot, but over decades it gets soft and eventually will fail.
Here’s a good photo compliments of another Sabre owner that shows what lies beneath the sole and where the water acculumates.
And here’s a photo that shows just how backed up the water can get inside the bottom of the mast. The owner drilled a hole in the mast and water came flowing out.
This is the most catastrophic failure I have seen which happened while the owner was sailing and ended up in a scrapped boat. You can easily see in this photo the result of the wood softening over time and the mast eventually compressing it into a pulp.
The problem could have easily been avoided is Sabre had installed a three-sided dam around the step to direct the water aft into the bilge and more effectively sealed the step. Something like this.
Not much to explain here. You will have to remove a relatively significant portion of the sole to get to the step and the two stringers that are fore and aft of the step. Some owners have chosen to replace the entire sole. This can easily double or triple the effort involved with this job. In our case the sole is in decent condition. The plywood under layer forward of the step is wet, however it is not structural and the topmost holly and teak cosmetic portion is dry. I’m going to minimize the sole I cut and try to get creative with how it gets covered up. I’m considering making a new floorboard to fit in the space so I can inspect the area in the future to ensure the issue does not happen again.
The next article will be about measuring to ensure I can place the new step, after I rip everything out, exactly where the old one was. I plan on building a jig (suggestion from a listserv member), hanging a plumb bob, and measuring to various fixed points in the boat to ensure I have a number of ways to verify that the new step is exactly where the old one was before.
Here are all the articles about the mast step issue from the Sabre owners group :
- Mast step question
- Mast step box fix
- Cabin Sole Replacement S 34-II
- Mast step disease - all models?
- Base of mast protection
- Mast step rot
- S34 # 67 Step replacement & bhead repair
Similar Posts
Laser Mast Step Repair Kit
Broken laser mast step.
With a Laser Mast Step Repair Kit from Diversified Fiberglass you don’t have to throw out your broken Laser!
Diversified Fiberglass offers high quality, long-term mast step repair kits guaranteed to stand the test of time. In fact, with over 100 Laser mast steps and decks repaired with this method, Ted hasn’t had a single one fail.
The difference between Ted’s technique and other repair kits is that a Diversified Fiberglass repair kit sits flush with the deck, maintaining the same deck pattern as the original mast step with absolutely no loss of strength. Other mast step kits have a flimsy frame that sits up half an inch above the deck; which means more weak areas and places for leaks, not to mention a less attractive profile. Ted’s method also includes pressure testing to ensure a totally watertight seal, as well as colour and surface matching to your Laser’s deck.
Get the high quality mast step repair your Laser deserves
You can order a mast step kit from Diversified Fiberglass to install yourself, or Ted can install your new mast step to guarantee a leak-proof, strong mast step that sits flush with your deck.
Sits flush with deck • Strong and waterproof
Gelcoat matching • Matched to deck surface
Before Repair
After Repair
Broken Mast Step Base & Replacement
Completed Repair
Learn more about us and Ted’s experience.
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Top Laser Sailboat Accessories & Upgrades
Last Updated on July 14, 2023 by Brendan
- 1.1.1 Wind Indicator Details:
- 1.2.1 Wear Strips Details:
- 1.3 3. Centerboard Wear Strips
- 1.4.1 Teflon Mast Step Disc Details
- 1.5.1 Turbo Kit Details
- 1.6.1 Ronstan RF62100 Block Details:
- 1.7 7. Laser Clew Strap
- 1.8.1 Spliced Vectran Laser Traveler Details:
- 1.9 9. Traveler Blocks
- 1.10.1 Carbon Tiller Details:
- 1.11.1 Deck Cover Details:
- 1.12.1 McLube Sailkote Details:
- 1.13.1 Laser Dolly Details:
- 1.14.1 Telltales Details:
- 1.15.1 Foil Bag Details:
- 1.16 16. Spar Carriers
- 2.1 More From My Site
Many casual and beginner sailors buy an older Laser dinghy as their first boat. Older models, often bought second-hand, regularly do not contain much more than a basic setup. This means that they are missing many of the new laser sailboat accessories that are now available.
This is fine as you start your sailing journey, but as you get into Laser sailing more (for example, start racing), you may want to be more competitive and get more out of your sailing.
With this in mind, many boat manufacturers have developed updated accessories so that you can upgrade your sailboat.
The addition of various types of Laser sailboat accessories generally enhances the sailing experience. Plus, when you add new upgrades to your dinghy, you also increase the value of your boat.
Here is a look at some of the most common Laser sailboat parts.
Popular Laser Sailboat Accessories
1. wind indicators.
Wind indicators are a great addition to any Laser dinghy. They give a quick and easy visual guide to help you when out on the water. Wind indicators are generally mounted low on the mast so that they are always within easy view, or sometimes on top of the mast. It’s important to ensure that they don’t get caught on the mainsheet of your dinghy or another Laser when in a tight position at the start of a race.
Most good wind indicators feature a universal fit for all Laser dinghies, as well as Opti, Topper, Sabot, and others.
Wind Indicator Details:
- Vane is held in place with a bracket
- Low Friction
- Attaches to mast with a rubber boot
- Velcro secures indicator in place
- Replacement vanes/straps also available
- See an example product here .
2. Mast Wear Strips
Made from thin strips of Teflon, Laser Mast Wear Strips are meant to reduce the amount of friction that can build up between the Laser mast and the step. For best results with these Laser dinghy parts, mount these strips in two locations: one at the bottom of the mast and the other just below the deck line.
Wear Strips Details:
- Made of thin Teflon (approx. 1mm thick)
- Adhesive on the back of each strip for ease of installation
- Pre-cut for precision
- See an example here .
3. Centerboard Wear Strips
This set contains five square-shaped patches that are designed to reduce friction and wear from the centerboard. They come with an adhesive back which requires no glue. You just peel off the protective sheet and add pressure once you have located where you intend to position them. The kit contains more strips than you may need which provides Laser dinghy spares for replacement.
4. Teflon Mast Step Disk
Designed to fit into the mast step hole, this small Teflon disc will help to minimize friction between the bottom of the mast and the Laser dinghy hull. It can be removed for cleaning and as a result, is reusable. The Teflon Mast Step Disk is used primarily to reduce wear on the mast step which is an important area to look after on any Laser.
Teflon Mast Step Disc Details
- Made from durable Teflon
- Keeps grit from damaging the bottom of the mast and mast step
- Class legal for use on any Laser sailboat
- See an example of this product here .
5. Turbo Kit
If your goal is to be a competitive sailor, you will sooner or later require a Turbo Kit. In fact, it is considered a Laser sailboat accessories necessity for the modern Laser sailor. The kit contains several items including a Harken vang (with blocks), a cam cleat plate, a Cunningham plate, Ronstan blocks, a vang key, and lines – some great Laser dinghy spares.
Turbo Kit Details
- Increases purchase on most control lines
- Reduces friction with efficient smooth blocks the system runs through
6. Ronstan RF62100 Block
The makeup of this Block features a patented extruded hole design that provides a very powerful grip thanks to the groove profile of the sheave. The holding power has been rated at up to 20:1 for this exceptionally lightweight but heavy-duty block.
Ronstan RF62100 Block Details:
- Unmatched holding power of up to 20:1
- Dual-sided on or off switch which can be operated under load
- Ball-bearing system provides low friction
- Easy bearing maintenance due to cheek cut-outs in design
- See more on this product here .
7. Laser Clew Strap
The clew tie-down strap contains three main parts. There is Spectra webbing, a stainless steel ‘D’ fitting, and Velcro. The strap is used to secure the sail clew tightly against the boom. The design is such that the strap can be attached to the boom so that it can slide to provide smooth outhaul adjustment.
8. Spliced Vectran Laser Traveler
Designed to provide the tightest leech tension, this traveler is manufactured from strong Vectran. The line features Brummell splicing at the load-bearing point. This eliminates additional bulk underneath the tiller while keeping it all class legal.
Spliced Vectran Laser Traveler Details:
- Extra-long at 11-feet
- Made with 5mm wide V12 Vectran
- Rated at zero stretch to enhance feel and tuning ability
9. Traveler Blocks
If you are looking for a suggestion of great sailing accessories that won’t blow a hole through your wallet, this would be it. The Harken Traveler Block features one-piece construction with a hinge that connects the two halves. It also utilizes ball bearings for low friction sheeting and fast main sheet requirements.
10. Carbon Tiller
As far as tillers go, the carbon tiller is considered the gold standard and a popular choice for many to add to their Laser sailboat accessories. That’s because it is lightweight, stiff, and often contains the strength of a titanium wear plate. Designed with a low profile, this tiller is durable and long-lasting.
Carbon Tiller Details:
- Provides more leech tension by making the mainsheet and traveler tighter
- Weighs just 500 grams
- Measures only 110 cm x 5 cm x 5 cm
11. Deck Cover
Protect your Laser sailboat with a dingy Deck Cover. They come in a few different colors and are best if made from water-repellent, breathable 900d fabric which is also UV resistant. You can get a custom fit with dinghy covers by using the included reinforced sewn elastic cord.
Deck Cover Details:
- Padded corners
- Reinforced wear points
- Heavy-duty straps with quick-release buckles
- Comes complete with a carry bag
- See laser dinghy covers here .
Known by the brand name of Sailkote, this spray-on dry lubricant is the silver bullet for most sailors. That’s because it is a high-tech, high-performance product that makes anything on your boat run smoother, work more efficiently, and last longer with reduced wear and tear.
McLube Sailkote Details:
- Popular and effective marine-use dry lubricant
- Dries in seconds after application
- Does not attract dirt, water, or other contaminants
- Lasts longer than wax, oil, or Teflon-based lubricants
- See McLube here .
13. Laser Dolly
Haul your boat to and from the water by yourself with ease using a specially designed Laser Dolly . The Dolly supports should fit snuggly which protects the gunwale gel coat. Made from aluminum, Dollies are both lightweight and strong and one of the most important of sailboat accessories.
Laser Dolly Details:
- Aluminum construction with boat-friendly round corners
- Handle at the bow end of dolly make maneuvering simple
- Wheel hub features ball bearings for easy rolling
- See more laser dollies and trailers here .
14. Telltales
Essentially telltales permit easier sail trimming and steering on a sailboat. What the ‘tails’ will ‘tell’ you are a lot of different information related to air movement over the surface of the sail. While the placement of telltales is crucial, there are several configurations commonly used. Each telltale has a disc that is stuck onto the sail. The ‘tail’ is left to flow freely.
Telltales Details:
- Available in sets of various quantities
- Made from nylon or wool yarn and are a few inches long
- See info on wind indicators and tell tales here .
15. Foil Bag
Designed as a protective bag to cover the rudder and fin of your Laser sailboat when not in use or in transport, some Foil Bags are large enough to provide room not only for your foils but also the tiller/extension, sails, ropes, and battens. Made from 600D material with a PU coating for strength and durability.
Foil Bag Details:
- Fully padded shell and interior pockets
- Includes a mesh side pocket
- Zip or Velcro closures
- Removable shoulder strap, adjustable with a carry handle
- See a foil bag here .
16. Spar Carriers
A Spar Carrier is intended for use in carrying spars (2-piece mast, and boom). The spar carriers are available in different colors and as Laser sailboat accessories, they allow you to safely transport spars on top of the deck of your Laser.
In Conclusion
For new and seasoned Laser dinghy owners, it is great to know that there are lots of different laser sailboat parts and accessories that you can purchase to help you sail faster, to help protect your gear, and to make your time out on the water more enjoyable.
For keen sailors, you can increase your chances of being more competitive by updating your gear and adding new laser dinghy accessories to your boat. You don’t necessarily need any of these options, but they are there to add to your Laser sailboat accessories kit as your budget and experience allows.
Previous: Inspecting a Laser Dinghy
Next: Laser Dinghy Controls & Fittings
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About Brendan
Brendan has over 30 years experience sailing dinghies, yachts, and windsurfers, but has recently started Laser sailing. "I found it difficult to find all the information that I needed when I started sailing my Laser, and I am sure that others have had the same problem. So I combined all the information I could into this website to help other Laser sailors get the most out of this sport. If you have any questions or comments, let me know... I will get back to you as soon as I can."
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ILCA / Laser® Complete Racing Lines
$ 120.00
Description
This package includes all the lines needed for competitive racing in laser, the lines can be spliced or tied though splicing the control blocks is recommended
Lines included in the kit:
- 6mm Pro Racing Mainsheet 41ft
- FSE Robline 3mm Outhaul Control Line
- FSE Robline 3mm Cunningham Control Line
- Alpha Ropes 2mm Dyneema for Outhaul Purchase
- New England Ropes 3mm Dyneema for Cunningham Purchase
- Alpha Ropes 2mm Dyneema for Daggerboard Downhaul
- Bungee for Daggerboard Downhaul and Hiking Strap
- FSE Robline 3mm Vang Cleated Control line
- Alpha Ropes 2mm Dyneema for Vang Purchase
- FSE Robline 3mm for Rudder Downhaul
- Yale Vectrus 4mm for Traveler
These lines will all work with the OEM standard blocks, for the best performance we recommend Harken T18 Series blocks for the controls and Vang and Ronstan 40c for the mainsheet block.
Related products
Laser Dolly Strap
Pro Clew Strap for Laser®
Rooster® Auto Bailer Spring for Laser®
Sailing Gift Certificate
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COMMENTS
Mast step failures are more common in the Laser class and somebody used to market a repair kit composed of a new tube and rather large section of deck that could be glassed into the damaged area. I have seen a few of these repair jobs and they looked like overkill, but at least they got the boat back on the water.
If it's more, fill the tube with until it's 14" and then drop a SS wear plate in. Fill the space between the sides of the tube and plywood base with a mix of resin/filler.. peanut butter consistancy. There are a number of good threads on here that explain everything - use the search and search on "Mast Step Repair".
This is a short video slide show on a Laser mast step repair. Very easy and very quick. This was a dry older boat that was purchased for $200. It weighed in at just over 130 lbs. Repair took just two days and was sailed the following day. It is a very fast boat. I have three lasers and this boat is my favorite sail! We named it "Open Heart".
Because this is just a crash-about boat I've decided against big operation-like the mast step repair kit. Since the tube/deck relationship is only about 30% compromised, I got a new plan. ... Bigger Sail for Laser Pico. fightingtorque, Jul 3, 2018, in forum: Sailboats. Replies: 6 Views: 4,043. fightingtorque Jul 11, 2018. New life for old ...
http://DiversifiedFiberglass.ca offers high quality, long-term mast steprepair kits (for laser 1 series) guaranteed to stand the test of time. In fact, with ...
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Starting the Mast Step Repair. This will be the first in a series of posts about replacing the mast step on our sailboat, a 1989 Sabre 36 named Glendi. The information here is both a summary of dozens of email discussions and phone calls with Sabre owners who have already dealt with this as well as an archival of my experience fixing the issue.
With a Laser Mast Step Repair Kit from Diversified Fiberglass you don't have to throw out your broken Laser! Diversified Fiberglass offers high quality, long-term mast step. repair kits guaranteed to stand the test of time. In fact, with over 100 Laser mast steps and decks repaired with this method, Ted hasn't had a single one fail.
This is the final movie in the series of how we repaired the broken mast step on our Laser. We did not use a kit, but did our best to line up the mast step p...
The simple test is to fill the mast step with water. If it holds water then it's probably good but if the water level drops there's a crack and that's a pain to fix. If you sail the boat with a damaged mast step it could blow out and when the mast comes down it rips a big hole in the deck.
I finished my mast step repair (my Dad's 1974 Laser) using the Diversified kit, and got the boat back in the water. If anyone is interested to see the process, there are photos (many, many photos) with descriptions at: Laser Mast Step Repair. If you are experienced with fiberglass repair, you will likely get a good laugh - I started with zero ...
All mast step failings I've seen is when the mast comes down from the whole step cracking/ripping out of older boats. Either way the laser is a popular hull, so odds are it's probably cheaper to buy one used. Especially since you already have an older looking hull, the repair might be close to the worth of the hull.
Parts for your Laser sail boat mast and boom including top sections, lower section, boom and all the fittings. Gooseneck, top section plugs, laser boom plugs, vang tang and vang straps and more! ... Plastic fitting Fits any ILCA dinghy or Laser sailboat boom Install with a 3/16 x 1/4 rivet (not included) Qty in Cart: 0. Price: $13.50. Subtotal ...
Refurbishing my Laser. Reinforced the step tube and patching a hole inthe deck.
Laser and ILCA sailing line and rigging must be able to withstand the elements: moisture, the sun's rays and in some cases, salt or even freezing rain. West Coast Sailing offers a
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The mast tube on my laser new $250 laser has been damaged and poorly repaired. I am looking to replace the mast step tube but the repair kits available seem to replace a huge section of deck and make your boat look as though it had massive damage and was repaired. Are there any places that just sell the mast tube.
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The final part in our journey to repair the mast step. We finally get the mast back in and go for a quick shakedown.Connect with us on:Blog: http://lifeatsix...
Where To Look For A New or Used Laser Sailboat For Sale. Are you ready to take on the world of sailing, but not sure where to look for a laser sailboat? Laser sailing provides a t
This original repair was done many years ago to the mast step, but the mast step started to leak and water was getting in the boat. I found the wood doughnut was also wet, so I had to remove some of the old repaired fibreglass cloth to expose the wet wood doughnut, and it was quite wet.
Wanted to Sail Bought a 4 by 4 piece of 3/8 marine plywood and some West systems products. Made a mast step out of 5 squares, glued together with West, then hole sawed out a 3" hole. Cut a 6 " wide piece with a 3" hole for the upper mast tube support, also glued in. Measured and mounted mast tube in step and upper mount. Cut and installed a 2" wide support from the dagger board to mast step.