sailboat propeller

7 Best Sailboat Propellers

If you own a boat, it's very likely that it has a propeller that you can use when you don't want to jib, tack, or hoist the sails. As such, having the right propeller for your sailboat that is extremely efficient under power, while not slowing you down under sail is important. This is why you have to choose the best sailboat propeller for your vessel.

Having the right sailboat propeller that properly fits your boat is one of the most essential things if you want to get the most out of your vessel. When it comes to boat propellers, there's no one-size-fits-all. In most cases, the factory-installed model may not be the best for your boat, so installing an after-market model would be the best way to go, especially if you want to improve your boat's acceleration and top speed.

One of the main duties of a sailboat propeller is to ensure or determine how fast your boat can go. It plays an integral role in enhancing efficiency and improving the boat's handling capabilities. So whether you're planning to set sail or just cruise around, having the best propeller for your boat is of immense importance in enhancing your boating experience.

Whether you're in the market because your boat's current propeller is damaged or you're just looking for a new propeller to improve the performance and efficiency of your boat, you've come to the right place. In this comprehensive guide, we'll help you filter through an ocean of choices and find a perfect propeller that matches the needs of your boat. At the end of this read, it should be quite easy to pick a propeller that makes and keeps your boat running and operating at peak efficiency.

Table of contents

How to Choose the Best Boat Propeller

A propeller is a crucial component of any boat. Without it, you may be forced to only rely on your sails or even row the boat manually. Even though they may all seem the same, these propellers have various features that make them different. So if you're in the market for a boat, here are how to choose the best boat propeller.

Generally, we often use our boats at sea level but there are those occasions when you may have to cruise at higher altitudes. For example, you may want to boat in a mountainous region and this means less oxygen. This means that your boat cannot produce the amount of power as it would in an oxygen-rich environment.

So if you plan to sail at an elevation, you can choose a propeller with a lower pitch as it will deliver more power.

Boat propellers are mainly made from three main materials including aluminum, stainless steel, and plastic. Stainless steel is an ideal choice if you're looking for strength, durability, and performance. In terms of aluminum, you'll get excellent performance, lighter design, and are more affordable. A propeller made from plastic is perfect for small boats but they may not offer the same durability and power as metallic propellers.

A propeller's weight can have significant effects on the performance of your boat. A heavier propeller will require less pitch and your boat's engine might not work at its full capacity. This is why it is of great importance to consider the load or weight of a propeller as well as the load that your boat will be carrying so that you can choose a prop with the right pitch and diameter. You should, therefore, buy two propellers with different pitches so that they can be used interchangeably depending on the circumstance.

Ventilation

Needless to say, a propeller will not function at full capacity without proper ventilation. If a model isn't properly ventilated, the surface air might be pushed into the blades or the propeller, thereby leading to below-par performance. This is why you should ensure that the propeller is properly installed within the lower part of the transom and should be able to work even in very harsh conditions.

When it comes to choosing the right size of a propeller, you'll have to ensure that the diameter of the prop is twice the distance from the hub center to the blade's tip. A propeller with a larger diameter can perfectly accommodate a larger engine. You should also consider the prop's pitch, which is the distance the propeller will travel in one rotation. The pitch is comparable to a car's gear and sometimes you may need low pitches for the boat to move.

Cavitation refers to a situation whereby water vaporizes because there's a lack of pressure on the prop's blades. This low pressure and vaporization can lead to terrible consequences and can lead to erosion of the material. Such issues can be caused by poor polishing, poor design, and other flaws in the blade. This is why you should go for a high-quality propeller to ensure that cavitation doesn't become an issue.

Whether you go for a three-blade or four-blade propeller, they all work great. You, however, have to keep in mind that a three-blade prop offers top performance and speed while a four-blade prop is perfect for difficult conditions, especially when speed isn't a priority. Again a four-blade prop is great in fuel efficiency but may reduce your boat's rpm.

Best Sailboat Propellers

Here are the 7 best propellers currently available in the market.

Mercury Marine Spitfire

If you've held a little interest in boat propellers, you've probably been part of the debate between three-blade and four-blade propellers. While it may be difficult to conclusively choose the best type of propeller based on the number of blades, the Mercury Marine Spitfire puts an end to this debate. This is because it offers the best of both worlds and remains one of the few propellers that are compatible with various motors.

This propeller is designed to be the ultimate prop for a wide range of outboard boats in terms of offering outstanding performance. This aluminum prop is designed with four blades and a long barrel that combine to give it an additional stern lift and lightning-fast holeshot, which is crucial in skinny-water applications. To put it into perspective, this prop can offer 25% faster acceleration and superior holding without necessarily compromising on top speed.

This is a unique boat propeller that is magnificently designed to cater to the unique demands of various boats. Whether you're using an outboard boat with 25hp or 125hp, this prop can spin up quite fast and improve your boat's acceleration thanks to its innovative designs.

• ‍ Offers aggressive blade cupping
• It is quiet as it comes with a noise-reducing hub
• Doesn't have blowouts on hard turns
• ‍ Quite expensive

Quicksilver Nemesis 4-Blade Boat Propeller

Featuring arguably the most aggressive geometry of all aluminum props, the Quicksilver Nemesis 4-blade Propeller offers the best cup in terms of acceleration, holding, and tenacity when gripping in turns. The fact that it is designed with a high-rake and reduced diameter makes it incredible if you're looking for a prop that can help your boat maintain top speed.

This is a prop that's helping rewrite the engineering rules as you get top acceleration and tenacious holding without compromising on top speed. This is great for any boat that's powered by stern drives ranging from 25HP to 250HP and will significantly augment the performance of your boat.

If you've been looking for an all-round prop, this is the best option. It will never let you down when it comes to delivering a superb holeshot, fuel efficiency, incredible control and comfort, and top speed. Better still, you don't have to break the bank to acquire one.

• ‍ Offers 3-blade speed with 4-blade performance
• A great and powerful prop for rough waters and water sports
• Offers impeccable quality and performance and a fair price
• Available in a wide range of pitches and diameters to suit different motors and needs
• ‍ Might not be ideal if you want a left-hand rotation

Turning Point Hustler Propeller

If you're in the market for a prop that incorporates in its design some of the newest and most efficient features, then the Turning Point Hustler Propeller can be a superb option. This is a high-performance 4-blade stainless steel propeller that comes with a guarantee that it will be devoid of air bubbles and any other defect that could negatively impact on its performance or that of your boat.

This prop's blade design is structured with one of the best high rake patterns, aggressive cupping, fine-tuned pitch aggression, sharp trailing edges; all to ensure that your boat achieves top speed, maximum acceleration, fuel efficiency, and top-end performance. This prop is designed to be long-lasting thanks to its five-step, powder-coated finish.

The Hustler is designed with a squeeze cast for added strength and a high flow-through barrel exhaust system to increase horsepower while offering top-end speed.

• ‍ Enhanced low consumption and fuel efficiency
• Quite affordable
• Offers improved handling
• One of the most advanced props in terms of technology
• ‍ May interfere with the boat's rpm

Young Marine OEM Grade Aluminum Outboard Boat Propeller

Whether you're on a tight budget or just looking for a quality OEM grade propeller that will offer top performance, the Young Marine OEM Grade propeller can be an ideal option. This propeller is meant for Mercury outboard engines and will cost half the price of other top brands while offering the same if not much better results in terms of quality and performance.

The Young Marine is available in a wide range of pitches and diameters. This not only makes it one of the most versatile props in the game but offers you the flexibility of going for something that perfectly and exactly suits your size and pitch needs. The fact that the diameters and pitches are the same as the original OEM propellers makes installation a lot easier while still offering top performance.

This propeller is made from the highest-quality aluminum, thereby offering an incredible combination of strength and lightness. It's perfectly suited for Mercury outboard engines and works great within a range of 25HP to 75HP.

• ‍ Affordable and offers excellent value for money
• Offers a wide range of diameters and pitches
• The 3-blade design offers improved performance
• ‍ Only works best for an engine with HP ranging from 25 to 75

MotorGuide 3-Blade Machete III Boat Propeller

Designed with 3-blade superiority, MotorGuide Machete 3 is a superb boat propeller that can be of great help if you're planning to sail over skinny water full of seaweed and other aquatic flora. Featuring a prop pint and prop nut, this is an impressive boat prop that's designed to offer efficiency and top speed.

It performs relatively well across various voltages including 12, 24, and 36 voltages. This prop is specifically designed for trolling motors and can easily outperform similar props in this category.

• ‍ Great for trolling motors
• Offers fast and efficient performance
• Works great across a wide range of volts ‍
• ‍ It's affordable
• The tapered hub design is excellent
• ‍ The blades are made of plastic and their durability is questionable

Mercury Max Black Boat Propeller

This is another Mercury propeller model that's widely known in the industry for offering top performance and speed. It's designed with several amazing features such as the combination of a small pitch and a bigger diameter to enhance its efficiency. It is also created using premium aluminum to offer a great balance between strength and lightness.

It comes with the standard 3-blade model to enhance speed and an outstanding hub system that is high-rated by users. This is one of the best-selling 3-blade propellers in the world and will deliver uncompromising performance in virtually every situation. Its geometry may seem conservative but it will never lose even the slightest bite on the water even when your boat is making the modest of turns.

• ‍ Its design is efficient
• Made of premium aluminum material
• Works great in almost any situation
• Can reach top speed in less than 50 mph
• Comes with a flo-torq hub kit
• ‍ Noticeably slower than many stainless steel boat props

Michigan Wheel MICH 3 Blade Boat Propeller

If you have a smaller boat but want a quicker and smoother cruising, the Michigan MICH can be your best bet. Featuring 19 prop pitch and a 14.5 diameter, this 3-blade prop delivers consistently great performance and can be easily customized for various types of boats.

Installing this propeller is quite easy and it will hold up well for many years to come with minimal maintenance. The blades are made of premium aluminum and are coated in black to prevent it from corroding. This can be an excellent option if you're looking for a superb prop for a small boat.

• ‍ It is corrosion-resistant ‍
• ‍ Installing it is easy
• Offers top speed and makes cruising quite smooth
• It can be customized to fit well in a wide range of boats
• ‍ Not perfect for bigger boats

To this end, we hope that you are now more informed when it comes to choosing the best propeller for your boat. Of course, a propeller is of great importance to your boat and will increase your vessel's efficiency. You certainly do not want to spoil your boating experience just because you chose a low-quality propeller and that's exactly why you should go for a prop that perfectly suits your boat.

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Daniel Wade

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Understanding Your Sailboat Propellers

• By Michael Cilenti
• Updated: July 6, 2015

Out of sight and out of mind, sailboat propellers are often an afterthought for cruising sailors. Ironically, because manufacturers have developed a variety of efficient sailboat propellers designed to maximize thrust under power while minimizing drag under sail, selecting the right prop for a sailboat can be even more complex than it is for a power vessel. In order to make an informed decision and choose the right propeller for your needs, it’s important to understand the advantages and disadvantages of all the options available.

Propeller Geometry

Before delving into specific types of sailboat propellers, in order to grasp how all the design elements work together, it’s ­important to understand the basics of propeller geometry. All propellers — from sailboats to power cruisers, outboards to aircraft carriers — share the following characteristics.

To start, the hub is the central part of the propeller, to which its blades are attached either as a single casting or mechanically; it, in turn, is connected to the propeller shaft in traditional drive trains, or to the saildrive , which has become more and more prevalent in contemporary cruising boats. Regarding those blades, the leading edge is just that: the edge that leads into the water when turning ahead. (It’s also the edge closest to the forward part of the propeller hub.) The trailing edge , conversely, is the opposite edge of the blade (the one closest to you when standing on the aft side of the prop).

The root is the inboard side of the blade and forms the transition where the blade connects to the hub, while the tip is the outboard edge of the propeller blade. The blade face is also known as the pressure side, and is the side that faces aft. The blade back is also known as the suction side, and is the side that faces forward.

The majority of propellers are right-handed ; viewed from astern, they rotate clockwise when moving forward, and have a slight tendency to swing the stern to starboard. Since the propeller is designed to be most efficient when going ahead (the direction one travels the vast majority of the time), this side force is minimal. When going astern, however, the opposite is true, and the stern will “walk” to port, which is usually the more pronounced of the two side forces and can therefore be a distinct advantage, or disadvantage, when maneuvering in close quarters. Prop walk is dependent on several factors, including hull shape, but also the propeller itself. An inefficient propeller will introduce more prop walk than an efficient one.

Diameter and pitch are two of the most basic dimensions used to describe a propeller. If you were to attach a pencil to the tip of one of the blades and ­rotate the propeller one full turn, tracing a circle, the distance across this circle would be the diameter of the propeller. Next, if you were to rotate the propeller one full revolution in a solid medium that does not slip (think of a screw in wood), the pitch would be the forward distance that the propeller would travel in that single revolution. With modestly sized yacht propellers, diameter and pitch are routinely measured in inches (as opposed to feet or meters for ship propellers). So a 12-by-20 prop has a 12-inch diameter and a 20-inch pitch.

Given the definition of pitch, you might wonder why you wouldn’t choose a propeller with higher pitch in order to gain additional power. But propellers must be sized in relation to the rest of the propulsion system, and must match the power curve of the engine, as well as the rpm range afforded by the reduction gear. As such, a propeller with ­excessive pitch may not actually generate additional thrust, since it would overload the engine and prevent it from reaching the designed rpm, which can reduce fuel efficiency and increase wear to critical engine components. ­Additionally, an overloaded propeller is susceptible to cavitation , which happens when a prop rotates and creates a partial vacuum. Water rushes in to fill that vacuum, creating tiny bubbles; when they collapse, they basically pound the prop. While cavitation will occur in small amounts in very localized areas on almost every propeller, excessive cavitation will result in a loss of thrust, excessive noise, and vibration, and can be violent enough to actually pit or erode the propeller.

Many blades also have rake and skew . Rake is the forward or aft slant of the blades when viewed from the side. Propellers are generally given some degree of aft rake to help increase efficiency while decreasing vibration. In fact, many propellers on outboard engines exhibit a significant amount of aft rake. A propeller blade is skewed if it is asymmetrical with respect to a straight radial line drawn outward from the hub. Skew helps reduce pressure fluctuation and therefore vibration and noise.

As an example, think of those classic World War II films, when the submariners would huddle together, waiting for the next depth-charge attack while listening to the pulsating sound of the destroyer’s propellers as it passed overhead. That distinct pulsation was caused by the difference in pressure as each propeller blade passed close to the ship’s hull. Even if the propeller blades were equidistant from the hull on all sides (think of a propeller in a tunnel or nozzle), the pressure difference between the propeller tip closest to the surface and the tip that is deepest can be substantial enough, especially in larger propellers, to cause similar pulsation. The prop on a modern submarine is an example of a highly skewed propeller; the sickle-shaped blades are designed to reduce noise and vibration to an absolute minimum, even at the expense of propulsive efficiency.

The number of blades can also play a significant role in the propeller’s performance. As with skew, at least in theory, a greater number of blades will generally reduce vibration, since for a given rpm there is less time between each blade passing a given fixed point. That said, if a propeller is well designed and dynamically balanced, a two-bladed prop will not vibrate more than a three- or four-bladed prop. However, in instances where a shaft is slightly out of alignment, a three-blade prop could help decrease shaft vibrations.

Along these lines, if a propeller had an infinite number of blades — if it were a solid disc — there would be no vibration. Additionally, a propeller with more blades will generally have a larger expanded area than one with fewer blades, although that is not necessarily always the case. Expanded area is essentially the total area of the blades. For a given horsepower, a larger expanded area will result in lower thrust loading, or conversely, a propeller with a larger expanded area can absorb more power prior to experiencing significant cavitation. At the end of the day, it’s a delicate balance between optimum blade area and the potential for excessive diameter. Wide diameter causes excessive tip speed, which results in cavitation.

Propeller Options

There are several propeller types available for auxiliary sailboat applications. To begin, let’s look at some basic but often confused definitions for different types of propellers.

Blades may have constant or variable pitch. A propeller with constant pitch has blades whose pitch, or angle of attack, remains the same from the root to the tip. Conversely, a variable-pitch propeller has blades that appear twisted; that is, the blades will have greater pitch at the root and less pitch at the tip.

While constant-pitch propellers are easier and therefore cheaper to manufacture, variable-pitch blades are more efficient. Consider each blade’s motion as the propeller spins. At a given rpm, the part of the blade near the root is moving much slower than the part near the tip. If this seems confusing, think about the change in circumference as we move outboard on each blade; a point closer to the hub has less distance to travel to complete a full circle than does the tip of the blade. Since they both must complete the revolution at the same time — they are, after all, two points on the same blade — the point near the tip must move faster than the point near the root. Now, we also know that the faster the blade moves, the more thrust it will produce. So, in order to maintain constant thrust along the entire blade, the pitch is reduced as we move farther out toward the tip.

Propellers may also have either fixed pitch or controllable pitch . Fixed props are available in a wide range of diameters and pitches. All fixed props have twisted blades, but as the name suggests, they can’t be adjusted. Feathering props, alternatively, have flat blades with no twist. This makes the blade area relatively inefficient, but that drawback is offset by the ability to adjust the blades’ pitch.

A controllable-pitch propeller also has the ability to change the pitch of the prop blades, by rotating each blade at the root, but these props are generally used on superyachts, not your normal cruising boat. On these larger vessels and ships, controllable-pitch propellers are used to keep the engine operating in the most efficient rpm band by varying the pitch of the propeller to change its thrust rather than the speed of the engine.

Additionally, many controllable-pitch propellers also have reversible pitch: In order to provide astern thrust, the pitch of the propeller blades is reversed while the propeller continues to spin in the same direction. For larger ships, this has some distinct advantages, as it eliminates the need to stop the propeller before turning it in the other direction. This simplifies the machinery required and dramatically reduces the time before reverse thrust is produced, therefore increasing maneuverability. For sailing vessels, in addition to the advantages previously described, controllable-pitch propellers can often “feather” the blades to minimize drag while sailing.

Controllable-pitch props can also be adjusted to maximize the power and efficiency of your particular propulsion system and boat, something that fixed-pitch propellers cannot do. This ability to fine-tune the propeller — coupled with advanced blade designs in controllable-pitch props — may promote a notable increase in power, speed and efficiency. It’s important to note, however, that compared to fixed-pitch models, these controllable-pitch benefits do come at increased cost. Cost aside, the complexity of the system also may make it more prone to issues than a fixed-pitch propeller, and more difficult to find parts and complete repairs when voyaging in remote regions.

Of course, many sailors are familiar with folding propellers, which are fixed-pitch models designed to fold back in order to minimize drag while under sail. Like fixed props, these come in a wide variety of diameters and pitches, have twisted blades, and aren’t adjustable. Originally, folding props were generally two-bladed, but three-bladed props are now widely used and very popular, and four-bladed models are also available. Folding props are designed so the centrifugal force of the spinning shaft will cause the blades to unfold when the engine is engaged. Folding propellers are less complicated than their controllable-pitch cousins, but compared to standard fixed props, they still offer reduced drag under sail. When folded, they are also less prone to being fouled by seaweed or other debris than a feathered, controllable-pitch propeller.

In days gone by, many folding propellers got bad raps for several reasons. They wouldn’t open immediately at low rpm, particularly in reverse, or they required a revved engine to provide the sufficient centrifugal force to open them. Conversely, at low speeds while under sail, the flow of water was sometimes insufficient to keep the blades folded, particularly if the prop blades were aligned top to bottom (where gravity could open the bottom blade) rather than side to side.

When we raced sailboats when I was younger, we used to dive down and put a rubber band around the folded prop once we got out to the racecourse. Or we’d make a mark on the propeller shaft with paint or a permanent marker when the boat was on the hard; we could then position the shaft so the blades were aligned side to side once we secured the engine. However, those issues have largely been eliminated with today’s modern, highly engineered folding props. These days, the blades in most folding props are geared and synchronized, and very efficient in all conditions, whether under sail or motoring. Their reliability is underscored by the fact that they’re now standard equipment on new boats from Beneteau, Dehler, Gunboat, Hanse, J-Boats, Jeanneau, Morris and many other manufacturers.

The variety of propellers available today provides a wide range of options for sailors to choose from. The advantages and disadvantages of each propeller type must be weighed against your sailing and motoring style. When investigating a new prop, shop wisely and ask lots of questions of the specific manufacturers; it’s important to get personalized recommendations for your boat and your plans. Understand the differences to ensure you find the best fit for your needs.

Propeller Resources:

The following is a list of propeller manufacturers and their websites.

• Autoprop Automatic Variable-Pitch Propellers
• Flexofold Folding Propellers
• Gori Folding Propellers
• J Prop Feathering Propellers
• Kiwiprop Feathering Propellers
• Max-Prop Feathering Propellers
• Martec, Autostream and Slipstream Folding and Feathering Propellers
• Variprop and Variprofile Feathering Propellers
• Volvo Penta Folding Propellers

A graduate of the U.S. Coast Guard Academy, where he raced inshore on the varsity sailing squad and offshore to Bermuda and Halifax, Lt. Cdr. Michael Cilenti is currently second-in-command of the Coast Guard cutter Waesche out of Alameda, California .

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How to Choose the Right Sailboat Propeller

November 10, 2021 by Martin Parker 1 Comment

Introduction

Choosing the right sailboat propeller for your needs is a complex process. Make the wrong decision, and you could end up with an underpowered boat or a constantly over-revving engine. Get the right propeller, though, and your engine will run more efficiently and with less vibration, ultimately allowing for more comfortable cruising.

By understanding propeller basics and seeking the advice of professionals, you can easily find the right propeller for your sailboat. Below, we explain the basics so that you know what to look for when buying your next sailboat propeller. We’ll also take a deep dive into the choices of propellers available for purchase.

Propeller Basics

Before we jump into the more technical details of propellers, it’s essential that you know the basic parts of a sailboat propeller and what they do. Understanding the basics will help you choose the right propeller and give you some knowledge when speaking to the experts.

The hub serves two purposes. First, it connects the propeller to the driveshaft, allowing the engine to turn the propeller and drive the boat forward. Second, the blades are attached to the hub, either as a one-piece casting or using some mechanical means.

There are three terms relating to the blades.

Root: The point where the blade attaches to the hub.

Leading-Edge: When rotating, the blade edge cutting through the water is the leading edge, while the opposite side of the blade is the trailing edge.

Tip: The furthest end of the blade from the hub.

Basic Dimensions

Two measurements define the basic propeller dimensions, the diameter and the pitch, and propellers are described in terms of their pitch and diameter.

The size of the circle made by a rotating propeller. Imagine attaching a marker to the end of a blade and then spinning the propeller one full rotation, with the marker drawing a circle on a piece of card. Measure the distance across the circle, and that is the propeller’s diameter.

The distance the propeller would move forward during a single rotation. Think of a nut and bolt. The pitch of the bolt’s thread is equivalent to that of the propeller. When you rotate the nut through a single rotation, it moves forward a set distance. The distance moved is the pitch, measured in inches.

Sailboat Propeller Sizing

Both diameter and pitch are measured in inches, and the values describe the prop size. A 14/22 prop has a diameter of 14 inches and a pitch of 22 inches. While these dimensions will give you a reasonable propeller size for your boat, other factors also affect the correct values for your propeller.

Your Propeller Choices

When you are considering a new propeller, you have a significant number of choices to make. Some may be forced on you by budget constraints. Others you may deem essential regardless of cost.

Constant or Variable Pitch

The pitch is the blade’s angle of attack through the water, and blades either have constant or variable pitch. A constant pitch blade has the same pitch from root to tip, whereas the pitch of a variable pitch blade reduces towards the tip. When you look at it, a variable pitch blade twists from the hub to the tip.

If your budget is tight, you may opt for a constant pitch prop, as they are cheaper to manufacture. However, a variable pitch prop offers better efficiency and is generally the better choice.

To understand why variable pitch is more efficient, we need to look at propeller speed. As your propeller spins at a constant engine rpm, the hub turns much more slowly than the tip of the blade. Increasing propeller speed equals increased thrust, so to maintain constant thrust along the blade, the pitch reduces towards the tip.

Fixed or Controllable Pitch

Fixed propellers all have twisted blades giving a variable pitch along the blade, but the pitch cannot be adjusted as the name suggests. This makes them cheaper to produce than variable pitch props.

A variable pitch prop allows the blades to be rotated at the root, allowing you to set the correct pitch for varying conditions. Because of the increased cost and complexity, variable pitch blades are rarely seen on cruising yachts and are primarily used on superyachts. There are several advantages that you may consider worth the extra cost;

– Your engine rpm can be set at the most economical speed, with thrust controlled by varying the pitch.

– You may be able to reverse the pitch of your propeller, which is very useful when maneuvering. This eliminates the need to stop the propeller from spinning before changing its direction.

– A variable-pitch propeller can be fine-tuned to get the best efficiency, power, and speed from your propulsion system, something you cannot do with a fixed pitch prop.

– Variable pitch propellers can often be feathered. The reduced drag and therefore reduced fuel consumption offered by a feathered prop may go some way to offsetting the initial cost.

Feathering Propellers

A feathering propeller is a direct replacement for a fixed propeller but with the advantage of less drag when you’re sailing. Once under sail, the prop automatically aligns the blades with the direction of travel, removing the drag caused by a fixed prop. The only disadvantage is that the blades are flat with a constant pitch. This type of propeller is a cheaper alternative to a controllable pitch prop, although with fewer features.

Folding Propellers

If you’re looking for more sailing efficiency, a folding propeller is a common choice. It’s a straightforward design, using the force of the water over the blades to close them flat when sailing. The centrifugal force opens the blades when the prop is turning.

There are some downsides to increased sailing efficiency, though;

– They are only available as fixed pitch propellers.

– Older designs don’t always open with low engine rpm or may only partially open. You may need to rev the engine to open the blades.

– The water pressure may not always be sufficient to push the blades back at low sailing speeds, negating any potential advantage.

– Very poor reverse thrust.

Number of Blades

Older designs were only available with two blades, but nowadays, three and four-blade versions are available. Many of the issues listed above have been addressed with the more modern designs, such as gearing to ensure all the blades open together.

Saildrives are an interesting development with propellers, providing a more compact propulsion system for sailing yachts. Many of the same choices for conventional propeller drive systems apply to saildrives, and you can use all the different propeller types mentioned above.

The primary difference is that the saildrive setup moves the propeller almost directly under the engine, which means the propeller’s angle of attack is parallel to the water’s surface.

Compared to a conventional engine and driveshaft system, these factors will influence the pitch, diameter, and type of propeller you choose.

Sailboat Propeller Issues

Most propellers rotate clockwise when moving forward. Prop walk is the sideways force generated by the spinning propeller, but it’s barely noticeable moving forward.

Going astern is a different prospect, and you can usually feel a distinct movement of the stern to port. You can counter the effect with the rudder, but you can also use it to your advantage when maneuvering.

Propeller design can also contribute to the amount of prop walk you experience.

Cavitation happens when the prop becomes overloaded, and a vacuum forms around the blades. The effect of water rushing into the vacuum creates tiny bubbles, causing a loss of thrust, vibration, and noise. Excessive cavitation can even damage the propeller. Your propeller’s design and the shape of the boat hull can significantly impact how susceptible the propeller is to cavitation, so it is essential to get it right.

Ventilation

Often confused with cavitation, ventilation is the result of the propeller drawing in air. There may be a design fault when propellers sit too close to the surface, but problems can also arise when the propeller spins too fast.

Factors Affecting Your Choice Of Sailboat Propeller

Engine power

It’s crucial to choose the right size prop for your engine. If your propeller is too large or over-propped, then the engine will struggle to reach maximum rpm. When a propeller is too small or under-propped, your engine will rev out too quickly.

When looking at prop size, you must also factor in any gearing in the drivetrain. The gearbox supplies the power output from the engine, so it’s the output shaft torque and power figures that are important.

Hull Resistance

The wet surface of your hull produces resistance, but of course, you also need to factor in any drag caused by extra protrusions on your hull. This will include the rudder, driveshaft brackets, speed sensors, depth sounder, etc. 

Choosing The Right Propeller For You.

Many factors affect your choice of a propeller, and no one solution is better than the other. The first consideration is your motoring requirements, followed by your budget restraints.

If your budget is tight and you only occasionally use the motor, a fixed blade prop is probably your best choice.

Alternatively, a folding or feathering prop could be the best choice if you want to maximize your sailing speed, reducing drag.

When maneuverability is the priority, a feathering prop might be the right choice.

While the options above relate to specific uses, the main characteristics of a propeller are pitch and diameter. These define how the prop will perform and should be the starting point for any propeller choice. Once you determine these basic choices, you can consider more technical factors.

FAQ’s

Is A Bigger Sailboat Propeller Better Than A Small Propeller?

Is bigger better? No, not always, and in the case of propellers, going bigger could cause you all kinds of problems. In terms of size, we’re talking about the diameter of your propeller. A larger diameter propeller will give you more blade area and give you more thrust – in theory.

However, if your propeller is too big, the engine will struggle to turn it and never let it get to its optimum rev range. An oversize propeller will restrict your boat’s performance and increase your overall fuel consumption.

Should You Choose The Highest Pitch Propeller For More Speed?

This is a similar consideration to that of the size (diameter) of your propeller. Increasing the pitch of your propeller blades should, in theory, give you more thrust. As with the diameter, though, too much pitch will limit the performance.

Does A Bigger Propeller Mean Your Boat Will Go Faster?

No, and it may make your boat slower. As we discussed throughout this article, choosing the correct propeller involves numerous factors, and it’s not a simple question of size.

What Factors Should You Consider When Choosing a Propeller?

The first and most important factor is how you sail your boat and how often you use your engine. If you tend to cruise gently, using your engine only when there are light breezes, then low vibration and low cost are possible priorities.

Anyone who enjoys racing will look for speed and low drag, so a folding or feathering prop will be a priority.

Need more advice on buying a sailboat propeller? Get a conversation started on our forum  by leaving a question or comment!

If you found this article helpful, please leave a comment below, share it on social media, and subscribe to our email list., for direct questions and comments, shoot me an email at [email protected].

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July 28, 2022 at 1:24 am

First of all, your first prop size numbers are reversed. In almost all sailboat application propellers the diameter number is larger than the pitch number. 22D x 14P , for example is more along the ratio of diameter to pitch, for the reason of motor H.P. in relation to Tons of boat which you need to propel. The only applications, which are few, where you would run a prop with a higher pitch number than Diameter is when your transmission ratio is aprox. 2 or 2.5 -1, thus a slower turning prop shaft.. l am a prop shop operator in Cancun.. Thank You..

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FIND YOUR NEXT FLEXOFOLD FOLDING PROPELLER

Flexofold develops, manufactures,, and sells the most efficient folding, propellers for sailboats and, multihull yachts on the market..

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Our folding propellers are available as 2-bladed, 3-bladed, and 4-bladed in multiple sizes and pitches. All delivered for both shaft- and saildrive installation.

100 % FIT ON ALL COMMON SAILDRIVES

The Flexofold propellers fit perfectly on all common saildrives and are widely used by most of the recognised boatyards worldwide – including Beneteau, Jeanneau, Lagoon, Elan, Hanse Yacht, Dehler, Saffier Yacths, Halberg-Rassy and many more!

100% fit on all common shafts

The Flexofold propellers are designed to fit perfectly on all common shafts following the ISO; SAE and IMP standards, and are widely used by most of the recognized boat yards worldwide.

Worldwide delivery

Flexofold propellers  are delivered all over the world directly from our factory in Vejle, Denmark. No matter where you live or where your boat is located, we ship your new propeller by UPS courier service – directly to your address at very competitive costs. In most cases, we ship your new propeller within 3-5 working days from placing the order / receiving payment.

Our experience - your guarantee!

We pride ourselves in direct contact and dialogue with our customers, shipyards, and dedicated sailors from all around the world. This is why we can ensure that you get the right guidance and the best possible propeller for your sailboat!

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CUSTOMER REFERENCES

The Flexofold 3-Blade 17x13-3L/R propeller went on after the first attempt. The motors—2x Yanmar 3JH5—come to a nominal speed of 3000 RPM and the Outstar 48 goes at the speed of 9.5kn

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The new outstar 48 with twin flexofold - germany.

Adding the 3 bladed Flexofold was the best thing ever. Should have done it years ago. Better performance under sail and power. Cut fuel consumption in half!

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Ewol feathering propellers make maneuvering easier, increase sailing speed and increase cruising speed under power

EWOL adjustable pitch propellers are made of stainless steel alloys that represent the highest technology in terms of marine corrosion and galvanic corrosion resistance, and are also equipped with the most refined technical solutions that make it unparalleled on the market.

EWOL feathering propellers can be fitted on sailing boats with both traditional (endothermic) and electric engines and with both mechanical and hydraulic inverters. The components of EWOL propellers are made of super-duplex stainless steel alloys, developed by the steel industry for extremely heavy tasks.

EWOL regularly presents new versions of its products with increased performance, and is now also working on developing additional innovative products that will come out in the short and medium term. Nowadays, anyone seeking a truly reliable product that performs over time, solves boat manoeuvrability and sailing speed problems, and is always up at the cutting edge of technology and materials, should install an EWOL propeller on their boat.

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Max-Prop Automatic Feathering Propellers

Proven Cruising and Racing Propellers Since 1972

Max-Prop has led the low drag propeller market for 40 years and is still the leader today. Since starting production in the 1970's Max-Prop has proven itself on racing and cruising boats around the world. With over 50,000 propellers in the water, the Max-Prop is tested daily in the harshest conditions and has established itself as the most efficient and reliable low drag propeller.

The combination of low drag, outstanding reverse power, efficient forward performance, and fail-safe design makes Max-Prop the ideal sailboat propeller on the market today. Now with the recent introduction of the Whisper, and the Boomerang models, Max-Prop has taken a further lead over the competition in the propulsion of sailboats.

Max-Prop Models

2, 3 and 4 Blade

For Racers to Large Cruising Boats

Easy for SailDrive

For Volvo, Yanmar, TwinDisc, ZF, Sillette or Bukh SailDrives

For Heavy Displacement Large Cruising Yachts

For Larger Vessels with Electronic Shift Transmissions and High Sailing Speeds

Features of a Max-Prop

Under sail, a Max-Prop will increase sailing speed between 10% to 15% in average wind conditions compared to a fixed blade propeller, with an ever-larger difference being given when sailing in light air. The drag under sail varies widely between propellers, number of blades, angle of the shaft as well as location of the propeller on the boat. It is fair to say that a 2 blade Max-Prop propeller located on a horizontal shaft (sail-drive) will have the least drag while a 5 blade Max-Prop on a high angle shaft will have the most drag. However, even a 5 blade Max-Prop on a high angle shaft will have substantially less drag and provide more power when motoring than a fixed 2 blade propeller.

In forward: the Max-Prop will offer 96% of the efficiency of a fixed blade propeller of the same diameter and pitch. The 4% loss in power can usually be eliminated by precisely matching the pitch of the Max-Prop to fit the boat engine combination. In reverse: the Max-Prop provides 80% more power than a comparable fixed blade propeller. The Max-Prop utilizes the same leading edge in forward as it does in reverse giving the propeller the same efficiency in both directions, whereas on a fixed blade propeller in reverse the trailing edge becomes the leading edge therefore reducing its power.

RELIABILITY

Max-Props are feathering propellers, so unlike folding propellers, Max-Props do not rely on centrifugal force to open. Instead, the Max-Prop relies on the torque from the shaft rotation acting on the differential type gear design in the body of the propeller. This in turns ensures an immediate opening in forward and more importantly in reverse, unlike folding propellers which have a lag time in reverse.

VERSATILITY

The pitch setting on all Max-Prop models can be adjusted. Changing the pitch is very simple; by removing a bolt and replacing with one of a different length on the Easy and Whisper. On the Classic models, you will need to change the setting of the gear inside the propeller (usually upon a haul out). The ability to adjust the pitch will help achieve the maximum efficiency from the engine without having to purchase a new propeller.

INSTALLATION & MAINTENANCE

The Max-Prop will fit directly onto your existing shaft with the boat in or out of the water. The Max-Prop will be matched to your specific shaft taper or SailDrive Spline. The only required maintenance is to grease the propeller once a year, and to replace anodes when they erode away.

Worldwide, many of the top racing boats have opted for the Max-Prop solution.

The three, four or five blade Max-Prop is the propeller of choice for the cruising sailor. The combination of low drag, great performance in forward, increased speed under sail, outstanding backing power, safety and maneuvering, and fail-safe design makes the Max-Prop the ideal cruising propeller.

Advantages of a Max-Prop

Under Sail...

A Max-Prop feathers to a low drag shape. Compared to a folding propeller, the extra wetted surface of the Max-Prop blades is offset by the reduction of projected area: A .

In Forward...

While not always exactly as efficient as a perfectly sized fixed propeller, a good choice of Max-Prop diameter, pitch and number of blades will usually achieve 96% or better efficiency compared to a fixed blade propeller. This maximum of 4% drop in efficiency is only seen at maximum throttle, which is seldom, if ever, used. The fact that with a Max-Prop, a boat owner or a designer can choose not only the diameter and number of blades of the propeller but can also adjust the pitch easily after sea trials makes the Max-Prop an ideal tool to fine tune a boat’s performance under power.

In Reverse...

The simple fact that the Max-Prop blades use the same leading edge and pitch in reverse as in forward results in an identical power in both directions. A fixed blade propeller looses almost 50% of its power in reverse. Worse yet - a folding propeller which, depending on the brand, can loose up to 80% of its power in reverse. The Max-Prop blades switch from forward to reverse instantaneously. It takes only 3/4 of the shaft rotation for the blade switch to occur.

"WOW! I tested it out yesterday and this new Max Prop is like night and day! It feels like I finally found the "brakes" on the boat. I should have done this years ago!! Backing up is immediate (instead of the usual almost 2 second delay), I have better control in reverse, AND so much more power going forward! Plus my boat vibrates a lot less."

Disadvantage of Folding Props

A folding propeller has low drag. The drag is directly proportional to the projected area: A .

The blades will "slam" open and, if not perfectly aligned or true to each other, will cause vibration.

In that the blades will not open to the maximum diameter (and occasionally not at all), the reverse power is very poor (much less than a fixed blade prop).

Disadvantage of Fixed Blade Props

A fixed blade propeller includes a tremendous amount of drag, reducing the boats speed an average of 15%.

Fixed blade propellers provide maximum efficiency as long as the pitch is correct.

A fixed blade propeller works with the trailing edge as a leading edge, reducing its efficiency by 50%.

Max-Prop Propellers For Catamarans

Catamarans are different from monohull sailboats under sail and power. Because of this, the advantages of the Max-Prop are accentuated on a Catamaran. The reduced drag under sail not only improves boat speed but also reduces turbulence over the rudders providing improved boat handling. This reduction in drag also allows a boat to come through a tack quicker and with more boat speed exiting the maneuver, making it easier to sail in light winds.

With the increased beam and freeboard of a catamaran comes the downside of more windage. The impressive reverse power of the Max-Prop adds to the control and safety of the vessel when maneuvering. Max-Prop has propellers for both SailDrive and Shaft driven applications in 2, 3, 4, or 5 blade designs. This allows the boat owner to pick the correct propeller for how they use their catamaran with little compromise.

Features specific to Max-Prop on Catamarans

• Improves control and safety of the vessel
• Very low drag under sail
• Reduced turbulence over rudders under sail
• Improved tacking speed with reduced drag
• Overcome windage inherent to Catamarans
• 80% more power in reverse compared to a fixed propeller
• Models designed specifically for SailDrive
• Adjustable pitch to optimize powering performance
• Versatility of blade number

Max- Prop was designed and built in the early 1970’s by Maximillian Bianchi in Milan, Italy. Max, a young Italian engineer invented a new type of propeller at the request of a sailboat racing friend in the golden days of the IOR racing rules. Little did he know at the time, this simple product would become his lifelong passion and livelihood. To this day, Max still oversees any new development of the product and follows it all the way through the manufacturing process. It is hard to believe, but Max quality checks each and every propeller that comes out of his factory. Nowadays, his son and daughter work with him so the legacy will continue long after Max retires (if he ever does).

The Foundry

In order to keep the metal quality to a constant high standard, Max bought a foundry in the mid 70's. To this day, the majority of Max-Prop cast parts are made in that foundry close to Lake Cuomo, a two hour drive from Milan.

The ownership of this foundry not only resulted in high quality cast parts, but also insured that any defect in the material or the part would not be passed on to the next stage of machining. This vertical integration is one of the main reasons for the success and durability of Max-Prop.

The Machine shop

The actual machining of the propellers has always been under the full supervision of Max, from the days of manual lathes and mills to the ultra-modern CNC machines of today. Through the years, the machine shop has had multiple locations and currently is in Milan, in the same building as the sales offices, management and where the final assembly of the Max-Prop occurs. Once again, Max himself oversees each and every process.

Sales Office

PYI is the only sales office for Max-Prop in North/South America and Asia. PYI was established in 1981 and on that date Max-Prop was already the main product distributed. Since then, PYI has added products which are well known in the sailing community, some as a manufacturer and some as a distributor. Through the years, Max-Prop has been the driving force for PYI, allowing us to facilitate the manufacturing of other quality products.

Max-Prop Through The Years

An evolution towards perfection!

Maximilian Bianchi Circa 1972

Maximilian Bianchi Circa 2018

Max-Prop Videos

Want to learn more about our Max-Prop products or how to adjust or install a Max-Prop? Check out our Youtube channel for all of our videos.

Other Max-Prop Videos

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Sailboat Propellers

"m" series sailer 3, why michigan wheel.

Design & Engineering

Michigan Wheel utilizes the latest in CFD technology to create advanced designs. Through advanced computer modeling and simulation, our engineering team can examine a boat’s wake and design a propeller specifically for that wake, leading to a significant reduction in fuel costs and vibration while offering a higher top speed.

Michigan Wheel controls every aspect of the production process to ensure the finished product is an accurate interpretation of the design. By utilizing the latest in CNC machining techniques and propeller measurement technology, Michigan Wheel is able to build incredibly accurate propellers that meet the varied tolerance requirements of their customers.

Michigan Wheel is committed to providing superior products for their customers when they are on the water for recreation, work, or in service to their country. Our quality team uses computerized measurement recording devices to measure our products and ensure they meet our strict tolerances.

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PROPELLERS FOR YOUR SAILBOAT

GORI Propeller design and manufacture some of the world’s most efficient and manoeuvrable folding propellers for yachts.

GORI  PROPELLERS SINCE 1975

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GORI Propeller supplies a full range of folding propellers and custom-made propellers for leisure projects all over the world. Superior stopping power, second to none due to the unique design of the propeller. Our folding propeller range offers the following products:

2-blade folding propellers.

The 2-blade GORI Folding Propeller is designed for sailing yachts fitted with engines up to approximately 60 HP (44 KW). Tests show it’s highly efficient in comparison to many alternative two and three blade feathering and folding propellers available. Looking for efficiency and less vibrations, then look no further.

2-blade Racing propellers

With GORI Racing Propeller, everything is geared towards speed. From the intricately designed aquadynamic shape and the ingenious folding mechanism to the precision engineering.  When looking to reduce drag the Gori Racing Propeller is the choice for the majority of One Design racing yachts. .

3-blade Folding propellers

The 3-blade GORI Folding Propeller is the only folding propeller operating the same pitch in forward and in reverse. This is a techno­logical and functional leap forward in the development of sailboat propellers. Gain the folding propeller’s speed advantages under sail, and the fixed propeller’s thrust capability when motoring.

3-blade Overdrive propellers

The 3-blade GORI Overdrive Folding Propeller give the helm the ability to choose the pitch and profile of the blades without the use of hydraulics or complicated mechanical devices. One propeller. Two settings. When in Overdrive there is less engine noise, less vibration, and better fuel economy. It really is that simple.

4-blade propellers

The 4-blade GORI Propeller has the lowest drag all four blade propellers. It has the same features and operates the same way as the 3-blade GORI Propeller, with the blades pivoting 180 degrees between forward and reverse, providing the same thrust in both directions.

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More Command of the Vessel When Docking

Provides up to 30% greater range, planes at 500-1000 lower rpm, significant speed increase at mid-range rpms, up to 30% more efficient cruise, noticeably less vibration, up to 50% more reverse thrust, dramatic noise reduction, superior handling in tight turns at high speeds.

Very happy with the performance. I’m saving as much as 40 gallons of gasoline on our typical offshore trip. With the price of fuel today, that is significant. We enjoyed working with all of you at Sharrow Marine. Jon A. 36’ Twin Vee / Twin Yamaha 300 HP

There is a new prop design that not only excelled in our tests, but may well make many non-loop propellers obsolete. BoatTEST.com

Love my Sharrow props! Mid-range has improved dramatically. Getting on plane is great. Operates efficiently. It has dramatically changed and improved the overall profile of my boat. Juan V. Pursuit OS 325 / Twin Yamaha 300 HP

Doing absolutely great so far. Saving money on gas. Robert P. 23’ Boston Whaler / Single Mercury 350 HP

Trusted by the Best

“Our testing and our investigation into the prop’s development has convinced us that there is a new prop design that not only excelled in our tests, but may well make many non-loop propellers obsolete.”

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GORI 3-Blade Propeller

The gori 3-blade folding propeller is available for installation on vessels with engines from around 10bhp to 300+bhp..

This unique design offers an “overdrive feature”, with 2 controlled pitch settings in forward and full reverse thrust. The “overdrive feature” gives lower engine RPM for the same cruising speed when in calm waters or motor-sailing.

The 3-blade propeller is available in diameters from 15” ~ 30+” , and pitch settings between 60% and 80% of the diameter. They are available in both LH and RH configurations for both saildrive and shaft installations. The GORI 3-blade propeller won the “DAME” design award at the Meets on November 1994 and the “HISWA” award in December 1994. In November 1994 the German Magazine “Die Yacht” published results of independent tests carried out by the Technical University of Berlin. These results showed conclusively the advantages of the GORI 3-blade propeller.

Ahead: GORI was 11+% more efficient than 3-blade feathering props tested.

Astern: GORI was 6.5+% more efficient than 3-blade feathering props tested.

Sailing: Drag was reduced by nearly 50% compared to the 3-blade feathering propeller under test.

The German sailing magazine “Segeln” tested propeller drag at the German Naval Architecture Test Center in Potsdam and results show the GORI 3 Blade propeller had less drag than all the other makes of 2-blades & 3-blades (except the GORI Race) with 1.4 Newton.

3-Blade Standard Shaft

3-Blade Saildrive

GORI 3-Blade Measurement Table

Propeller and Shaft Clearance Dimensions

A. Shaft Diameter B. Aft end of cutlass to start of taper/forward edge of hub E. Shaft centerline to hull at forward edge of hub F. Shaft centerline to hull at end of shaft thread H. End of shaft to leading edge of rudder I. Start of taper/forward edge of hub to rudder

Download Propeller and Shaft Clearance Form

Saildrive Installation

Please read these instructions carefully before installing your new GORI propeller

Warning ~ do not remove the blades from the blade housing when installing or removing the propeller from the shaft!!!! To remove blades – the center Fixing Bolt “MUST” be removed first!!!!

Installing the propeller.

The propeller is delivered assembled. This ensures that at the factory the propeller has been checked, and balanced prior to shipping.

Take apart the retaining cap (1). To do this … First remove the 3 x allen head bolts (item #5) holding the retaining cap (1) in place.

Now undo the retaining cap using the C-Spanner (16). The thread on the blade housing assembly (6), is a standard right to tight and left to loose. You may use a hammer with care, to tap the C-Spanner to get the retaining cap started as it is a firm, tight fit.

You will now have the retaining cap and blade housing assembly (6), (with blades installed) separate.

Check the shaft nut (3) & the nut-locking bolt (4.1) with the output shaft threads.

Remove the inner hub (2), flexible bushing (2.2), and PEEK bushings (2.1-2.3) from the blade housing (6).

Slide the retaining cap (1), PEEK bushing (2.1), inner hub (2), flexible bushing (2.2), and PEEK bushing (2.3) on to the saildrive shaft, matching the splines on the output shaft with those in the inner hub (2). Smear splines & shaft with waterproof lubricant.

Fit the nut (3), and tighten. Typically 72ft/lb. of torque for 1.00” dia. shaft. It is very important to always use the Gori supplied propeller nut for the installation. An incorrect nut can lead to loss of the propeller, part of the propeller or cause an electrical connection between the propeller and the saildrive.

Smear locking glue (Loctite 243) on the thread of the nut-locking bolt (4.1). Place the washer (4) into the shaft hut and then thread the nut-locking bolt (4.1) using a 5mm allen key (19). Typically tighten to 10 ft/lbs of torque.

Slide the complete blade housing assembly (6 thru 17.1), onto the flexible bushing (2.2), so that the 2 x security cams slide into the grooves of the flexible bushing (2.2). Wet the bushing to allow it to slide in easily.

Continue to slide the blade housing onto the assembly until the thread of the retaining cap (1), and the blade housing (6) are touching. Smear a threads with waterproof lubricant.

Screw the retaining cap (1) RH or clockwise onto the blade housing assembly (6). Using the C-spanner (16) tighten until the 3 x holes in the retaining cap are aligned with the 3 x half circle cutouts in the blade housing assembly.

Now using the Loctite-243 (21), re-install the 3 allen head bolts (5) using the 5mm allen key (19), into the holes and tighten firmly. Check that the blades will move freely from fwd to reverse and that the tip clearance with the hull is 10% of the blade diameter.

Removing the propeller

Warning ~ DO NOT remove the blades from the blade housing when removing the propeller from the saildrive leg.

First remove the 3 x allen head bolts (5), from the retaining cap

Now using the C-Spanner (16), undo the retaining cap so that it separates from the blade housing assembly (6). This is a right hand thread… simple right is tight…left is loose.

Carefully remove the blade housing assembly, by pulling off from the flexible bushing (2.2) and inner hub (2). These two items along with the bushings (2.1-2.3) will remain on the output shaft

Unscrew the nut-locking bolt (4.1) and also remove the washer (4) using a 5mm allen key (19).

Unscrew the shaft nut (3). It will be necessary to lock the output shaft when undoing the nut

Pull the inner hub (2), flexible bushing (2.20, end bushings (2.1 & 2.3), and retaining cap (1) off the output shaft.

Replacing the Aft Zinc

This should be done if more than 50% of the zinc (7), has been eroded away.

Undo the allen head bolt (8) and remove the old zinc (7) … if not gone completely.

Clean the propeller so as to ensure a clean strong bond with the new zinc.

Replace the zinc with new zinc, align the zinc with the end of the hub & the alignment hole with the pin in the end of the hub.

Use the new allen head bolt supplied … smear with loctite 243 also supplied, before re-installing the new bolt. Check that the blades will swing freely from fwd thru to reverse. If not and there are tolerance issues it may be necessary to realign or lightly file the sides of the zinc.

Replacing the Fwd Collar Zinc

This should be done if more than 50% of the zinc (17), has been eroded away.

First remove the 4 x allen-head bolts (17.1) and remove what is left of the zinc

Clean the surface of the propeller hub to ensure a good clean contact between the hub and the new zinc

Install the new zinc (17) using the Loctite 243 (supplied) on each of the 4 x allen-head bolts.

Replacing Flexible Stops

These can be replaced without removing the blades. Using a flat screw driver … pry out the old or worn Flexi-stops (15). Push or tap the new flexi-stops in place. It may be necessary to swivel the blades open and closed to obtain the best angle for re-installing the new ones. Remember they are flexible.

Removal of blades from the Blade Housing

To remove blades – the center Fixing Bolt “MUST” be removed first!!!! This must only be done when cleaning and a full service of the propeller is required. NOTE: Blades are not removed for the installation and removal of the propeller

Remove the zinc centre bolt (8) and the zinc anode (7), using a 5mm allen key (19). On propellers 18.0” and larger it will also be necessary to remove the threaded pin (9) using a 6mm allen key (20) … then remove the fixing bolt (10) using a 5mm allen key (19).

Failure to remove all these pins(8-9-10) first, will result in damage to the internal threads of the blade pins (11).

Disassemble the blade pins (11 & 11.1) from the blade housing using a 6mm allen key (20). Note that blades, pins and the housing are matched and numbered. They should only be reassembled in the correct location … that is #1 – # 2 – # 3.

Remove the blades. Remove the gear-wheel (13) and the spacer (14). Remove the flexible stops (15) using either a flat blade screw driver or pliers.

When re-mounting the blades and gears to the housing it is important to apply loctite-243 to … blade pins (11 +11.1), lock pin (10), threaded pin (9), fixing bolt (8).

The lock bolt (10) and the fixing bolt (8) are the very last items to be reassembled.

Be sure that all components fit back together and that the blade pins (11) are located as before removal, as they are indexed inside the hub to lock bolts (10 +8).

Note: If more than 50% of either of the zincs (7-17) has been eroded away they should be replaced. If the gear wheel (13) has been damaged or worn…it should be replaced If the flexible stops (15) have been damaged or worn…they must be replaced.

– Do not start the engine while the boat is out of the water – The prop may have sharp edges… be careful not to cut yourself – Make sure the blades do not open or close suddenly and trap your fingers – Stop the engine before diving or swimming in the vicinity of the boat – Propeller blades can cause considerable damage when rotating … be careful. – Do not remove fish nets, rope or similar from the prop with the engine running. – Check that the prop works in both fwd and reverse before each trip. If any strange sounds or vibrations are noticed coming from the propeller stop the engine and investigate the reasons/solve the problem.

Download GORI 3 Blade Saildrive Installation Maintenance Instructions

The propeller is delivered assembled. This ensures that at the factory the propeller has been checked, and balanced before shipping.

If your propeller has a fwd collar zinc installed, remove this first (22 + 23) Take apart the jacket (1) from the blade housing (6).

First remove the 3 x allen head bolts (5) holding the jacket (1) in place. If supplied with a fwd collar zinc remove this zinc first.

Now undo the jacket using the C-Spanner (16). The thread on the blade housing assembly is a standard right to tight and left to loose. You may use a hammer with care, to get the jacket started as it is a firm fit.

You will now have the jacket and blade housing (with blades installed) and the hub cone (2) separate.

Check the fit of the hub cone (2) onto the shaft. Adjust the key if necessary.

Check the shaft nut (3) with the shaft threads.

Slide the jacket (1) onto the shaft first. Now slide the hub cone (2) onto the shaft and tighten the shaft nut (3) very tightly. Typically up to 72ft/lbs of torque

Cover the allen screws (4) with Loctite-242 and tighten these dog point allen screws into the hub cone (2), locking the shaft nut(3), firmly in place. To do this you will need to rotate the jacket to line up an access hole with the allen screws (4).

Slide the blade housing assembly onto the hub cone (4), making sure that the tabs engage the hub cone. Push it fwd until you can start the thread of the jacket (1).

Tighten the jacket (1) to the blade housing assembly. Use the C-Spanner (16) to tighten and align the 3 threaded holes (5) with the holes in the jacket.

Now using Loctite-242, re-install the 3 allen head bolts (5) into the holes and tighten firmly.

Check that the blades will move freely from fwd to reverse.

Warning ~ do not remove the blades from the blade housing when removing the propeller from the shaft

First remove the Fwd split collar zinc, then the 3 x allen cap head bolts (5), from the jacket.

Now using the C-Spanner, place it on the stb side, & hammer down, unscrewing the jacket so that it separates from the blade housing and push it fwd on the shaft.

Carefully remove the blade housing assembly by pulling straight aft.

Undo the allen screws (4) to allow removal of the shaft nut (3). It is not necessary to remove them completely from the Hub cone (2).

Unscrew the shaft nut (3)

Install the bronze puller (17) into the hub cone (2). Thread it in all the way.

Tighten the large bolt in the centre of the puller (17) and this will draw the hub cone off of the shaft.

This should be done if more then 50% of the zinc (7), has been eroded away.

Undo the allen head bolt (8) and remove the old zinc (7) … if not gone completely. Clean the contact area.

Replace the zinc with a new one … index the fwd end of zinc with the end of the hub pin to the zinc hole.

Use the new allen head bolt supplied … smear with loctite before re-installing the bolt.

First remove the 4 x allen-head bolts and remove what is left of the zinc

Install the new zinc using the Loctite (supplied) on each of the 4 x allen-head bolts

These can be replaced without removing the blades.

Using a flat screw driver … pry out the old or worn Flexi-stops (15)

Push the new flexi-stops in place. It may be necessary to swivel the blades open and closed to obtain the best angle for re-installing the new ones. Use the blades to “push” home the stop into its location hole. Remember they are flexible.

Removal of blades from the Blade Housing !!!

This must only be done when cleaning and full service of the propeller is required.

Blades are not removed for the installation and removal of the propeller

Remove the centre bolt (8) and the zinc anode (7), using a 5mm allen key (19).

On propellers 18.0” and larger it will also be necessary to: remove the threaded pin (9) using a 6mm allen key … then remove the lock bolt (10) using a 5mm allen key.

Failure to remove these pins first will result in damage to the internal threads of the blade pins (11).

Disassemble the blade pins (11 & 11.1) from the blade housing using a 6mm allen key. Note that blades, pins and the housing are matched and numbered. They should only be reassembled in the correct location … that is #1 – # 2 – # 3.

Remove the blades.

Remove the gear-wheel (13) and the spacer (14).

Remove the flexible stops (15) using either a flat blade screw driver or pliers.

When re-mounting the blades and gears to the housing it is important to apply loctite-242 to … blade pins (11 +11.1), lock pin (10), threaded pin (9), fixing bolt (8).

Be sure that all components fit back together and that the blade pins (11) are located as before removal as they are indexed inside the hub to lock bolts (10 +8).

– Do not start the engine while the boat is out of the water – The prop may have sharp edges… be careful not to cut yourself – Make sure the blades do not open or close suddenly and trap your fingers – Stop the engine before diving or swimming in the vicinity of the boat – Propeller blades can cause considerable damage when rotating … be careful. – Do not remove fish nets, rope or similar from the prop with the engine running. – Check that the prop works in both fwd and reverse before each trip. – If any strange sounds or vibrations are noticed coming from the propeller stop the engine and investigate the reasons/solve the problem.

Download GORI 3 Blade Standard Shaft Installation Maintenance Instructions

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Flexofold Propellers

The Flexofold folding propeller provides trouble-free handling by superior power in both forward and reverse. When folded under sail, the low drag makes your boat sail faster and in lighter wind - even with a minimum risk of catching lines or seaweed. Cruisers and racers alike choose the 2-Blade Flexofold Classic because it combines the most efficient blade shape available with very low drag and moderate price. The Flexofold LA 2-blade features a larger zinc anode for electrolysis protection and an enclosed gear case for the folding blades.  Flexofold develops, manufacture and sell the markets most efficient folding propellers for sailboats and multihull yachts. Flexofold Sailboat Propellers are available as 2-Blade, 3-Blade and 4-Blade in multiple sizes and pitches. If you do not see what you are looking for, or are not sure what you need, please call us at 866-790-7767 or email us at [email protected]

Flexofold Anode Locking Screw 1040

Flexofold M8x20 locking screw only for Zinc Anode 1040 shown above. FLEXOFOLD PROPELLERS HOMEQuan..

Flexofold Anode Locking Screw 1042

Flexofold M6x10 locking screw only for 2pc. Zinc Anode shown above. FLEXOFOLD PROPELLERS HOMEQuan..

Flexofold Classic Sail Drive Propeller 12" X 2 Blade

Flexofold Classic Folding 2 Blade Sailboat Propeller fits Volvo Penta, Yanmar, Lombar..

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Flexofold 2 Blade Folding Sailboat Propeller fits Volvo Penta, Yanmar, Lombardini and Tech..

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Flexofold Classic 2 Blade Folding Sailboat Propeller fits Volvo Penta, Yanmar, Lombardini ..

Flexofold Classic Sail Drive Propeller 16" X 2 Blade

Flexofold Classic 2 blade folding propeller fits Volvo Penta, Yanmar, Lombardini and Techn..

Flexofold Classic Sail Drive Propeller 17" X 2 Blade

17" Flexofold 2 Blade folding Propeller fits Volvo Penta, Yanmar, Lombardini and Technodri..

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18" Flexofold 2 Blade folding Propeller fits Volvo Penta, Yanmar, Lombardini and Technodri..

Flexofold Classic Sail Drive Propeller 19" X 2 Blade

19" Flexofold 2 Blade folding Propeller fits Volvo Penta, Yanmar, Lombardini and Technodri..

Flexofold Classic Sail Drive Propeller 20" X 2 Blade

20" Flexofold 2 Blade folding Propeller fits Volvo Penta, Yanmar, Lombardini and Technodri..

Flexofold Classic Shaft Drive Propeller 12" X 2 Blade

Flexofold Classic Folding 2 Blade Sailboat Propeller fits shaft diameters 1" thru 1 1..

Flexofold Classic Shaft Drive Propeller 13" X 2 Blade

Flexofold Classic Shaft Drive Propeller 14" X 2 Blade

Flexofold 2 Blade Folding Sailboat Propeller fits shaft diameters 1" thru 1 1/2" & met..

Flexofold Classic Shaft Drive Propeller 15" X 2 Blade

Flexofold Classic Shaft Drive Propeller 16" X 2 Blade

Flexofold Classic 2 blade folding propeller fits shaft diameters 1" thru 1 1/2" & metr..

Flexofold Classic Shaft Drive Propeller 17" X 2 Blade

17" Flexofold Classic 2 Blade folding Propeller fits shaft diameters 1" thru 1 1/2" & ..

Flexofold Classic Shaft Drive Propeller 18" X 2 Blade

18" Flexofold Classic 2 Blade folding Propeller fits shaft diameters 1" thru 1 1/2" & ..

Flexofold Classic Shaft Drive Propeller 19" X 2 Blade

19" Flexofold Classic 2 Blade folding Propeller fits shaft diameters 1" thru 1 1/2" & ..

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Flexofold Classic Folding 2 Blade Sailboat Propeller fits shaft diameters 1" thru 1 1/2" &..

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Flexofold Propellers | Volvo and Yanmar Sail drivesTaking advantage of modern composite materia..

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Flexofold Propellers | Volvo and Yanmar SaildrivesTaking advantage of modern composite materials, th..

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Flexofold LA Folding Propeller 12" X 2 Blade

12" Flexofold 2 Blade LA Folding Sailboat Propeller fits Yanmar, Volvo Penta, Lombardini, Techn..

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13" Flexofold 2 Blade LA Folding Sailboat Propeller fits Yanmar, Volvo Penta, Lombardini, Techn..

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14" Flexofold 2 Blade LA Folding Sailboat Propeller fits Yanmar, Volvo Penta, Lombardini, Techn..

Flexofold LA Folding Propeller 15" X 2 Blade

15" Flexofold 2 Blade LA Folding Sailboat Propeller fits Yanmar, Volvo Penta, Lombardini, Techn..

Flexofold LA Folding Propeller 16" X 2 Blade

16" Flexofold 2 Blade LA Folding Sailboat Propeller fits Yanmar, Volvo Penta, Lombardini, Techn..

Flexofold LA Folding Propeller 17" X 2 Blade

17" Flexofold 2 Blade LA Folding Sailboat Propeller fits Yanmar, Volvo Penta, Lombardini, Techn..

Flexofold LA Folding Propeller 18" X 2 Blade

18" Flexofold 2 Blade LA Folding Sailboat Propeller fit Yanmar, Volvo Penta, Lombardini, Technodrive..

Flexofold LA Folding Propeller 19" X 2 Blade

19" Flexofold 2 Blade LA Folding Sailboat Propeller fit Yanmar, Volvo Penta, Lombardini, Technodrive..

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Reverse or Neutral

• Thread starter jrocheleau
• Start date Sep 17, 2008
• Oday Owner Forums
• Ask An Oday Owner

I've heard conflicting views on what to do with your transmission when under sail. Should it be kept in neutral or reverse when sailing?  

What I've been told is to put it in reverse when under sail. This came from the best diesel mechanic in our area. He's the guy that works on most of the boats including the ferry and cruise boats here. I don't know if the make and model make a difference. Ours is a Universal M25. Hope this helps!  

Capt Jim24025

Depends on your engine and tranny Check with the engine manufacturer. My VolvoPenta w/saildrive says to use Reverse but my Perkins 107 manual says to use forward. In lieu of that, try them both and find out which one stops the prop from turning. You want to stop the shaft from turning to prevent excessive wear on the transmission and packing bearing. I've also been told that a stationary prop has less drag than a moving prop (but that seems counter-intuitive to me). Capt. Cook  

My spin... Right on, Cap'n... I have a Volvo/Perkins MD2030 hooked up to a Volvo MS25S saildrive. Manual states when under sail, place shifter momentarily in reverse to stop prop and then place in neutral. Cheers, Bob  

Hello All! Do you know right position of the Paragon reverse gear (Atomic engine) under sail? I didn't find it at the operation manual.  

Konstantin said: Do you know right position of the Paragon reverse gear (Atomic engine) under sail? I didn't find it at the operation manual. Click to expand

Thanks a lot! Hello Rad! My name is Konstantin. I'm from Russia and I've bought the same boat (O'Day 32)! I see that it is really rare boat and there is not a lot of information. How long you own your boat?  

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Rescuers 'tame' out-of-control motorboat that threw two fishermen overboard

Posted: September 11, 2024 | Last updated: September 11, 2024

This is the remarkable moment boat patrol units 'tamed' an out-of-control motorboat that had thrown off two fishermen and reeled it to shore with a rope. Incredible footage shows the motorboat revving and spinning uncontrollably in the middle of the Mozhaisk water reservoir west of the Moscow region, Russia, on Monday, September 9. Two men were on the vessel fishing when it suddenly began circling on its own while it left with the engine running. The men were thrown overboard, and the motorboat continued moving at high speed. Witnesses saw the men get tossed into the water, pulled them out to safety, and then alerted emergency services. Members of the 308th Fire and Rescue Unit Mosoblpozhspas came to the scene and threw a rope onto the vessel's propeller. This way, they managed to shut down the boat's engine. After that, the boat was boarded and towed to the shore. There, it was handed over to its owner. Roman Protasevich, the deputy head of the rescue unit, said: 'Upon arriving at the scene, the rescuers saw the circling motorboat about 700 metres (2,290 feet) from the shore. 'They climbed into their own boat and headed toward the uncontrollable vessel. Getting closer, the rescue team threw a rope over the boat's propeller and shut off the motor. 'They then boarded the boat and towed it to the shore, returning it to its owner. The fishermen, who had fallen into the water, did not need any assistance.'

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