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10 Best Small Sailboats (Under 20 Feet)

Best Small Sailboats Under 20 Feet | Life of Sailing

Compact, easy to trailer, simple to rig, easy to maintain and manage, and affordable, the best small boats all have one thing in common: they offer loads of fun while out there on the water.

So whether you're on a budget or just looking for something that can offer ultimate daytime rides without compromising on safety, aesthetic sensibilities, alternate propulsion, and speed, the best small sailboats under 20 feet should be the only way to go.

Let's be brutally honest here; not everyone needs a 30-foot sailboat to go sailing. They come with lots of features such as electronics, entertainment, refrigeration, bunks, a galley, and even a head. But do you really need all these features to go sailing? We don't think so.

All you need to go sailing is a hull, a mast, rudder, and, of course, a sail. And whether you refer to them as daysailers, trailerable sailboats , a weekender sailboat, or pocket cruisers, there's no better way to enjoy the thrills of coastal sailing than on small sailboats.

There are a wide range of small boats measuring less than 20 feet available in the market. These are hot products in the market given that they offer immense thrills out on the sea without the commitment required to cruise on a 30-footer. A small sailboat will not only give you the feel of every breeze but will also give you the chance to instantly sense every change in trim.

In this article, we'll highlight 10 best small sailboats under 20 feet . Most models in this list are time-tested, easy to rig, simple to sail, extremely fun, and perfect either for solo sailing or for sailing with friends and family. So if you've been looking for a list of some of the best small sailboats , you've come to the right place.

So without further ado, let's roll on.

Table of contents

The Marlow-Hunter 15 is not only easy to own since it's one of the most affordable small sailboats but also lots of fun to sail. This is a safe and versatile sailboat for everyone. Whether you're sailing with your family or as a greenhorn, you'll love the Hunter 15 thanks to its raised boom, high freeboard, and sturdy FRP construction.

With high sides, a comfortable wide beam, a contoured self-bailing cockpit, and fiberglass construction, the Hunter 15 is certainly designed with the novice sailor in mind. This is why you can do a lot with this boat without falling out, breaking it, or capsizing. Its contoured self-baiting cockpit will enable you to find a fast exit while its wide beam will keep it steady and stable no matter what jibes or weight shifts happen along the way.

This is a small sailboat that can hold up to four people. It's designed to give you a confident feeling and peace of mind even when sailing with kids. It's easy to trailer, easy to rig, and easy to launch. With a price tag of about $10k, the Hunter 15 is a fun, affordable, and versatile boat that is perfect for both seasoned sailors and novices. It's a low-maintenance sailboat that can be great for teaching kids a thing or two about sailing.

Catalina 16.5

Catalina Yachts are synonymous with bigger boats but they have some great and smaller boats too such as Catalina 16.5. This is one of the best small sailboats that are ideal for family outings given that it has a big and roomy cockpit, as well as a large storage locker. Designed with a hand-laminated fiberglass sloop, the Catalina 16.5 is versatile and is available in two designs: the centerboard model and the keel model.

The centerboard model is designed with a powerful sailplane that remains balanced as a result of the fiberglass centerboard, the stable hull form, and the rudder. It also comes with a tiller extension, adjustable hiking straps, and adjustable overhaul. It's important to note that these are standard equipment in the two models.

As far as the keel model is concerned, this is designed with a high aspect keel as the cast lead and is attached with stainless steel keel bolts, which makes this model perfect for mooring or docking whenever it's not in use. In essence, the centerboard model is perfect if you'll store it in a trailer while the keel model can remain at the dock.

All in all, the Catalina 16.5 is one of the best small sailboats that you can get your hands on for as low as $10,000. This is certainly a great example of exactly what a daysailer should be.

There's no list of small, trailerable, and fun sailboats that can be complete without the inclusion of the classic Hobie 16. This is a durable design that has been around and diligently graced various waters across the globe since its debut way back in 1969 in Southern California. In addition to being durable, the Hobie 16 is trailerable, great for speed, weighs only 320 pounds, great for four people, and more importantly, offers absolute fun.

With a remarkable figure of over 100,000 launched since its debut, it's easy to see that the Hobie 16 is highly popular. Part of this popularity comes from its asymmetric fiberglass-and-foam sandwiched hulls that include kick-up rudders. This is a great feature that allows it to sail up to the beach.

For about $12,000, the Hobie 16 will provide you with endless fun throughout the summer. It's equipped with a spinnaker, trailer, and douse kit. This is a high-speed sailboat that has a large trampoline to offer lots of space not just for your feet but also to hand off the double trapezes.

Montgomery 17

Popularly known as the M-17, The Montgomery 17 was designed by Lyle C. Hess in conjunction with Jerry Montgomery in Ontario, California for Montgomery Boats. Designed either with keel or centerboard models, the M-17 is more stable than most boats of her size. This boat is small enough to be trailered but also capable of doing moderate offshore passages.

This small sailboat is designed with a masthead and toe rail that can fit most foresails. It also has enough space for two thanks to its cuddly cabin, which offers a sitting headroom, a portable toilet, a pair of bunks, a DC power, and optional shore, and a proper amount of storage. That's not all; you can easily raise the deck-stepped mast using a four-part tackle.

In terms of performance, the M-17 is one of the giant-killers out there. This is a small sailboat that will excel in the extremes and make its way past larger boats such as the Catalina 22. It glides along beautifully and is a dog in light air, though it won't sail against a 25-knot wind, which can be frustrating. Other than that, the Montgomery 17 is a great small sailboat that can be yours for about $14,000.

Norseboat 17.5

As a versatile daysailer, Norseboat 17.5 follows a simple concept of seaworthiness and high-performance. This small sailboat perfectly combines both contemporary construction and traditional aesthetics. Imagine a sailboat that calls itself the "Swiss Army Knife of Boats!" Well, this is a boat that can sail and row equally well.

Whether you're stepping down from a larger cruiser or stepping up from a sea kayak, the unique Norseboat 17.5 is balanced, attractive, and salty. It has curvaceous wishbone gaff, it is saucy, and has a stubby bow-sprit that makes it attractive to the eyes. In addition to her beauty, the Norseboat 17.5 offers an energy-pinching challenge, is self-sufficient, and offers more than what you're used to.

This is a small, lightweight, low-maintenance sailboat that offers a ticket to both sailing and rowing adventures all at the same time. At about 400 pounds, it's very portable and highly convenient. Its mainsails may look small but you'll be surprised at how the boat is responsive to it. With a $12,500 price tag, this is a good small sailboat that offers you the versatility to either row or sail.

If you've been looking for a pocket cruiser that inspires confidence, especially in shoal water, look no further than the Sage 17. Designed by Jerry Montgomery in 2009, the Sage 17 is stable and should heel to 10 degrees while stiffening up. And because you want to feel secure while sailing, stability is an integral feature of the Sage 17.

This is a sailboat that will remain solid and stable no matter which part of the boat you stand on. Its cabin roof and the balsa-cored carbon-fiber deck are so strong that the mast doesn't require any form of compression post. The self-draining cockpit is long enough and capable of sleeping at 6 feet 6 inches.

The Sage 17 may be expensive at $25k but is a true sea warrior that's worth look at. This is a boat that will not only serve you right but will also turn heads at the marina.

Having been chosen as the overall boat of the year for 2008 by the Sailing World Magazine, the Laser SB3 is one of the coolest boats you'll ever encounter. When sailing upwind, this boat will lock into the groove while its absolute simplicity is legendary. In terms of downwind sailing, having this boat will be a dream come true while it remains incredibly stable even at extraordinary speed.

Since its debut in 2004, the Laser SB3 has surged in terms of popularity thanks to the fact that it's designed to put all the controls at your fingertips. In addition to a lightweight mast, its T- bulb keel can be hauled and launched painlessly. For about $18,000, the Laser SB3 ushers you into the world of sports sailing and what it feels to own and use a sports boat.

As a manufacturer, Fareast is a Chinese boat manufacturer that has been around for less than two decades. But even with that, the Fareast 18 remains a very capable cruiser-racer that will take your sailing to the next level. In addition to its good looks, this boat comes with a retractable keel with ballast bulb, a powerful rig, and an enclosed cabin.

Its narrow design with a closed stern may be rare in sailboats of this size, but that's not a problem for the Fareast 18. This design not only emphasizes speed but also makes it a lot easier to maintain this boat. Perfect for about 6 people, this boat punches above its weight. It's, however, designed to be rigged and launched by one person.

This is a relatively affordable boat. It's agile, safe, well-thought-out, well built, and very sporty.

If you're in the market looking for a small sailboat that offers contemporary performance with classic beauty, the Paine 14 should be your ideal option. Named after its famous designer, Chuck Paine, this boat is intentionally designed after the classic Herreshoff 12.5 both in terms of dimensions and features.

This is a lightweight design that brings forth modern fin keel and spade rudder, which makes it agile, stable, and faster. The Paine 14 is built using cold-molded wood or west epoxy. It has varnished gunnels and transoms to give it an old-time charm. To make it somehow modern, this boat is designed with a carbon mast and a modern way to attach sails so that it's ready to sail in minutes.

You can rest easy knowing that the Paine 14 will not only serve you well but will turn heads while out there.

Many sailors will attest that their first sailing outing was in a Lido 14. This is a classic sailboat that has been around for over four decades and still proves to be a perfect match to modern small boats, especially for those still learning the ropes of sailing.

With seating for six people, the Lido 14 can be perfect for solo sailing , single-handed sailing, or if you're planning for shorthanded sailing. While new Lido 14 boats are no longer available, go for a functional used Lido 14 and you'll never regret this decision. It will serve you well and your kids will probably fall in love with sailing if Lido 14 becomes their main vessel during weekends or long summer holidays.

Bottom Line

There you have it; these are some of the best small sailboats you can go for. While there are endless small sailboats in the market, the above-described sailboat will serve you right and make you enjoy the wind.

Choose the perfect sailboat, invest in it, and go out there and have some good fun!

Daniel Wade

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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What are the Best Small Sailboats Under 20 Feet?

Sailing is a timeless and exhilarating activity that allows individuals to connect with the wind, water, and nature in a way that few other pastimes can match.

While sailing often conjures images of grand yachts and vast open waters, there’s a thriving community of sailors who prefer smaller vessels that offer a more intimate and agile experience.

In this blog post, we’ll take a closer look at some of the best small sailboats under 20 feet, highlighting their features, performance, and why they stand out in the world of sailing.

families on small sailing boats having fun

The Hunter 17 is a charming and capable small sailboat designed to provide a fantastic sailing experience for both beginners and seasoned sailors. With a length of 17 feet and a beam of 7 feet, it strikes an ideal balance between manoeuvrability and stability.

Key Features:

A. Spacious Cockpit: Despite its compact size, the Hunter 17 boasts a surprisingly spacious cockpit that can comfortably accommodate up to six people. This design makes it an excellent choice for family outings or weekend adventures with friends.

B. Swing Keel: The swing keel design allows for shallow draft sailing, meaning you can explore shallow waters without worry. It’s a versatile feature that expands your sailing horizons.

C. Easy to Rig: One of the Hunter 17’s standout features is its simplicity in rigging. Setting up and launching this sailboat is a breeze, making it accessible to those new to sailing.

D. Stability: The boat’s stable design and responsive handling make it a great choice for beginners. Even when the wind picks up, you’ll feel confident and in control.

Performance:

The Hunter 17 offers a respectable level of performance, with its responsive helm and well-designed sails. While it may not be the fastest boat in its class, it offers a smooth and enjoyable ride, perfect for leisurely cruising and day sailing.

O’Day Javelin

The O’Day Javelin is another excellent small sailboat option, known for its simplicity, reliability, and affordability. With a length of 14 feet and a manageable sail area, it’s an ideal choice for those looking to get started in sailing without breaking the bank.

A. Simple Rigging: The Javelin features a straightforward rigging system, making it easy for beginners to set up and launch the boat. This simplicity is a significant advantage for those new to sailing.

B. Lightweight and Trailerable: The Javelin is lightweight, making it easy to trailer to different bodies of water. This portability allows you to explore a variety of sailing locations.

C. Durability: O’Day sailboats are known for their durability, and the Javelin is no exception. With proper care and maintenance, this sailboat can provide years of sailing enjoyment.

While the O’Day Javelin may not be the fastest sailboat on the water, its focus on simplicity and reliability makes it an excellent choice for beginners and those looking for a hassle-free sailing experience. It’s a forgiving boat that allows you to learn the ropes at your own pace.

Catalina 18

The Catalina 18 is a small sailboat that bridges the gap between compact boats and larger cruisers. With a length of 18 feet, it offers a bit more space and comfort while maintaining the agility and excitement of a smaller vessel.

A. Comfortable Cabin: The Catalina 18 features a small but comfortable cabin, providing a place to escape the elements or even spend a night on the water. This feature sets it apart from many other small sailboats.

B. Self-Righting Design: The boat’s keel design makes it self-righting, which means it can recover from a capsize easily. This safety feature is especially reassuring for novice sailors.

C. Responsive Handling: Despite its slightly larger size, the Catalina 18 maintains responsive handling, making it enjoyable to sail in a variety of conditions.

The Catalina 18 offers a good balance of performance and comfort. While it may not be as fast as some dedicated racing sailboats, it’s a capable cruiser that can handle a range of wind conditions. The inclusion of a cabin adds versatility to your sailing adventures, making it an excellent choice for day trips and overnight excursions.

Conclusion :

Choosing the best small sailboat under 20 feet when you are getting ready to sail ultimately depends on your preferences and sailing goals. The Hunter 17 offers a spacious cockpit and stability, making it an excellent choice for families and beginners. On the other hand, the O’Day Javelin focuses on simplicity and affordability, making it an accessible entry point into the world of sailing. Lastly, the Catalina 18 strikes a balance between performance and comfort, with the added bonus of a cabin for overnight stays.

Regardless of which small sailboat you choose, each of these options provides a unique sailing experience. Whether you’re seeking adventure, family sailing , relaxation, or a way to connect with nature, these boats have something to offer. So, set your sails and embark on your sailing journey with confidence, knowing that you’ve chosen one of the best small sailboats under 20 feet to accompany you on your maritime adventures.

Determining the absolute safest sailboat in the world is challenging, as safety can depend on various factors, including the crew’s experience, weather conditions, and maintenance. However, sailboats designed for offshore cruising, such as those from renowned manufacturers like Hallberg-Rassy or Oyster, are often considered some of the safest due to their robust construction and advanced safety features.

The most efficient sail shape varies depending on the specific point of sail and wind conditions. However, in general, an aerodynamically curved shape, similar to an airfoil, is often considered the most efficient for harnessing wind power and generating forward propulsion on a sailboat.

A sailboat size suitable for two people typically ranges from 20 to 30 feet, with 25 to 30 feet being a popular choice for couples. This size provides enough space for comfortable living quarters and maneuverability while still being manageable for a two-person crew.

The size of a sailboat that one can single-hand largely depends on the sailor’s experience, skills, and the boat’s design. Many experienced sailors can comfortably single-hand sailboats up to 35-40 feet, but with the right equipment and know-how, even larger vessels can be handled solo.

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13 Popular Trailerable Sailboats with Lifting Keels

Trailerable boats come in a wide range of styles, sizes and capabilities. Dinghies and small sport boats are easy to trailer and even car top, but what if you're looking for something you can take some place, and maybe spend a weekend on board?

One good way to open a lot of shallow cruising grounds and gunkholes and to make your trailering life easier is to add a lifting or swing keel to the boat. With drafts under a foot on some models, these boats will give you a lot less trouble with overpasses, wires and launching.

While this isn't an exhaustive list, these thirteen popular boats will give you an idea of the range of trailerable boats with lifting keels you can find on the market. Some are older and no longer built, and you can find some of them at the boat shows and ready for purchase new today. Whether you're looking for a day sailer or a weekender for a couple to gunkhole along the coast, here are some great boats to consider.

Catalina 22 Sport

Com Pac Eclipse

Flying Scot

Islander 24

MacGregor 26

Montgomery 17, norseboat 17.5.

Seaward 26 RK
West Wight Potter 15/19

Most of these builders have several boat models, and several them have specialized in pocket cruisers, trailerable boats, and smaller hulls. Remember the specific model listed may be a good sample of their work, but check their entire lineup for something closest to what you want.

13 Biggest Trailerable Sailboats: Cheap But Good

Also - not all these boats are still in production, though they you can find them for sail used. Links are to the builder where possible, or to information pages to learn more if the builder is no longer around. Because we're looking at smaller boats, they won't likely be listed on brokerage sites, so you'll need to search for them on places like Craigslist, class association sites, and smaller regional boat sales sites and for sale boards.

First introduced in 1970, the Catalina 22 has been one of the most popular trailerable boats since its inception, though the Mk II update added a few inches of beam and couldn't race the Mk1 boats under one design class rules. The 22 Sport updates the classic original, while returning to the specifications for class legal racing out of the box with the original 22. It has a retractable lead keel, or an fixed keel option, and has berths below for up to four people. It's an easy weekender to launch and sail, with ready made fleets for fun, competitive racing.

Find the specs here

Com-Pac specializes in small, compact trailerable sailboats. The Eclipse is a solid example of their sloop-rigged boats. With a 21 foot overall length, 7'4" beam, and a 2,200 lbs displacement, it will tow easily with a modest vehicle. Down below, you'll find a double v-berth and space for cooking and food preparation. This converts to sleeping space with two additional quarter berths.

When looking for a trailerable pocket cruiser, look at the entire Com-Pac line.

Over five hundred CS 22 hulls were built in their production run in the early 70s, and this sturdy little cruiser is still a popular boat if you can find one on the used market. They conceived it as a lightweight, trailerable cruiser. It has a stubby externally ballasted keel with centerboard for added stability and pointing.

Though small, the interior has sleeping accommodations for four, a small galley, and a space for a portable toilet, making it a suitable choice for short expeditions and weekending. Though scarce today, the CS 22 is a good example of compact design that helped set the standard for later pocket cruisers.

The Flying Scot is a day sailer, and a popular design with over a hundred racing fleets around the U.S. It's an older design, having been in production for over fifty years, but this 19 foot sloop will still get a small group out on the water for a day of sailing and fun. Although it doesn't have an interior, clever and adventurous sailors have rigged up boom tents and other means to spend the night on their boats. Options on new boats include space for motor mounts, swim platforms, and higher end racing packages, and there is a strong market for parts and equipment.

The Hunter 22 is an updated replacement for the retired Hunter 216, another popular trailerable boat. The boat can be configured in a cruising setup with a V-berth and portable toilet, or a performance package with a sprit and asymmetrical spinnaker. For the size, it's a good value mini-cruiser with good performance and enough comfort to keep a small crew for a weekend. Depending how you configure your Hunter 22, it can run the gamut from comfy pocket cruiser to sporty day sailer.

Note: Hunter Marine changed names to Marlow-Hunter, though there is an enormous base of used boats with the Hunter brand.

There are several varieties of the MacGregor 26 beyond the base boat, including the 26D (1986-89), 26S (1990-95), 26X (1995-2003) and 26M (2002-2013). MacGregor boats have proven very popular trailerable boats, selling over 38,000 boats during the company's lifetime.

The Mac 26 differs from many small sailboats by two things - water ballast for stability, and the ability to take what is, by small sailboat standards, a massive outboard engine. A seventy horsepower engine on a 26' sailboat can make it hit planing speeds under power. This popular boat is a compromise - the water ballast, hull design, and smallish rig make it a somewhat underpowered sailboat, but it will sail. But if there is no wind, the Mac owners will still beat everyone back to the bar even while towing a water skier.

Their blend of form, function and design have made them controversial boats with experienced sailors, but there is no doubt the MacGregor 26 has gotten thousands of new boats on the water and built a loyal following for one of the most popular trailerable boats ever sold.

After the closure of MacGregor yachts, the Tattoo 26 was developed from the Mac 26 and is almost identical in performance capabilities and design.

Built at first with a fixed keel with an optional centerboard, orders for the keel/centerboard version outstripped the original and more centerboard versions were built. If you're looking for one, make sure it's the right version.

Lyle Hess and Jerry Montgomery designed the Montgomery 17 as a cruising capable, trailerable boat. The lapstrake fiberglass hull deflects spray and chop, and the 1,550 lb boat gives a stiff, dry sail. The cuddy cabin below has comfortable space for two adults, space for a portable toilet, and ample storage for gear and supplies. A four-part tackle rig makes raising the deck stepped a snap.

NorseBoats specializes in lighter day sailers and trailerable boats with a classic look but modern build and design concepts. Marketed as the "Swiss army knife" of boats, any of their offerings meet the criteria for an easy to trailer and handle boat with a shallow draft. The 17.5 can take a small outboard, has two rowing stations, and comes with a carbon fiber, rotating mast for easy setup and break down and solid performance under sail.

The larger NorseBoat 21.5 has an optional cabin version, with more sheltered space for sleeping and living than the open version.

The venture is a sixteen foot day sailer, and a modern design which can be sailed by up to eight people. The Venture has options for fixed keel, a centerboard, or a ballasted centerboard. As a forgiving design, it's a popular boat for inexperienced sailors and sail training, but still has enough power to be interesting and fun for skilled sailors as well. The RS Venture Connect features a lifting keel.

RS Sailing develops and sells many performance oriented small dinghies and day sailors aimed at a range of sailing skill and applications, from sail training dinghies to high performance racing skiffs.

Hand built with carbon fiber and vinylester resin over balsa core, this little boat is lighter than expected, but still sails well with options for a fixed keel or centerboard. At 16'10" overall, a 6'9" beam, and 1,300 lbs it's an easy boat to handle. But down below it's got a V-berth sized for adults and seating for two down below. The lapstrake designed hull deflects water and spray for a drier, more comfortable ride.

The smaller Sage 15 is another option for a lightweight boat using the same modern materials and techniques in a classically styled package.

The Seaward 26RK is the successor to Nick Hakes’ Seaward 25, with an edge to more comfort and better performance in a similar price to the last generation yacht. The result is the 26RK with more waterline, more buoyancy aft, and a lifting keel.

One of the larger boats on this list, the Seaward 26 RK, is still easy to move over land with a trailered weight under 6,000 pounds. The boat alone displaces 3,800 pounds, with 1,200 lbs. of that in retractable ballast with a bulb on the bottom. The keel lifts with an electric motor and is simple to operate. The cockpit is comfortable for four and has options for wheel or tiller steering.

Down below you'll find four six-foot berths and seating for four. Interior configurations include options for an enclosed head and v-berth, and a two-burner stove in a small galley.

Seaward Sailboats began sharing construction facilities with Island Packet Yachts and are sold through the same dealer network.

For over fifty years, the West Wight Potter has been a compact, trailerable option for a weekender and vacation boat. The fifteen and nineteen foot models have been fixtures at boat shows and in harbors, and sailors have even crossed oceans in these doughty little boats. The fifteen displaces only 475 pounds, with 165 pounds of ballast in the lifting keel. It's self righting and self bailing, with added foam for stability and floatation. The 19 is heavier at 1,225 pounds with 370 pounds of ballast, but the extra volume adds two more quarter berths, more headroom, space below, and more waterline.

With a kick up rudder and retracting keel, these little cruisers can be beached or taken in shallow waters. They designed the hull for stability and reduce spray for a dry and comfortable sail. Factory options include several creature comforts, sail options, and even trailers. With over 2,600 West Wight Potter 15s built and 1600 of the nineteen footer, there's a ready market of these pocket cruisers for sale.

While the big boats get the glory and high profile spots at the shows, smaller trailerable boats are what most people can buy. The corners of the shows where you see the West Wight Potters and Com-pacs to be just as exciting to me as the main docks filled with forty and fifty footers, because these smaller boats invoke a different adventure. An attainable adventure, for so many more people.

There's an array of smaller boats you can store in your garage or backyard and take out for everything from a casual day sail to a long summer vacation. This list gives you a flavor of what's out there in the trailerable boat market, but it's up to you to decide where you want to go and how you want to get here.

The article is headed by a photo of a S2 7.9 but that boat did not make your list. IMO the best trailer boat .

You may also like, what is a swing or lifting keel 14 pros and cons explained.

If you need to know what a swing keel is, like me, this article is for you. I'm trying to decide what keel type is right for me, so I dove into the swing keel.

Sailboat Keel Types: Illustrated Guide (Bilge, Fin, Full)

Centerboard (Swing Keel) vs. Fixed Keel: Pros and Cons

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11 Best Pocket Cruiser Sailboats to Fit a Budget

By Cruising World Staff
Updated: May 24, 2024

Looking for a trailerable pocket cruiser that offers that liveaboard feeling? This list features 11 small sailboats with cabins that have the amenities often found on larger vessels. They may not be ocean crossing vessels, but they’re certainly capable of handling big bays and open waters.

What is a pocket cruiser? It’s a small trailerable sailboat, typically under 30 feet in length, that’s ideal for cruising big lakes, bays, coastal ocean waters, and occasionally bluewater cruising. Pocket cruisers are usually more affordable, compact, and offer a level of comfort that’s comparable to bigger liveaboards.

Small cruising sailboats are appealing for many reasons, but if you’re like most of us, you want to maintain a certain level of comfort while on the water. We took a poll and these are what we found to be the best cruising sailboats under 30 feet.

– DON’T LET CARBON MONOXIDE SNEAK UP ON YOU – Install detectors on your boat to sniff out any buildup of carbon monoxide gas. Avoid running engines or generators while anchored or stopped for extended periods. Safety Tip Provided by the U.S. Coast Guard

Open and airy below deck, the Andrews 28 doesn’t sacrifice comfort for speed. Designed by Alan Andrews, the Southern California naval architect renowned for his light, fast raceboats, this 28-footer will certainly appeal to the cruiser who also enjoys a little club racing. Sporting a total of 6 berths, a galley, head and nav area, you might forget you are on a boat small enough to be easily trailered. The retractable keel allows the Andrews 28 to be easily launched and hauled and ensures it’s as comfortable as a daysailer as it is a racer. Click here to read more about the Andrews28.

Beneteau First 20

Small sailboat with a cabin? Check! Fun to sail? Modern design? Capable of flying a spinnaker? Check! Check! Check! The Finot-Conq-designed Beneteau First 20, which replaced the popular Beneteau first 211 nearly a decade ago now, is a sporty-but-stable pocket cruiser suitable for newcomers to the sport who are eager to learn their chops before moving up to a bigger boat or for old salts looking to downsize to a trailerable design. The boat features twin rudders, a lifting keel, and a surprisingly roomy interior with bunks for four. Click here to read more about the Beneteau First 20 .

Conceived as a way to bridge the gap between a safe, comfortable, family cruiser and a competitive racer, Gary Mull’s Ranger 26 does exactly as it was designed to. Undeniably fast, (one won the 1970 IOR North American Half-Ton Cup) the boat sails as well as it looks. However speed isn’t the Ranger’s only strong-suit, with over 7 feet of cockpit there’s plenty of room for socializing after an evening of racing. The Ranger 26 sports a nice balance of freeboard and cabin height ensuring that a handsome profile wasn’t sacrificed for standing headroom. Click here to read more about the Ranger 26.

Catboats were once a common site in coastal waters, where they sailed the shallow bays as fishing or work boats. Their large single and often gaff-rigged sail provided plenty of power, and a centerboard made them well-suited for the thin waters they frequently encountered. In the late 1970s, Canadian builder Hinterhoeller introduced the Nonsuch 30, a fiberglass variation of the catboat design, with a modern Marconi sail flown on a stayless mast, and a keel instead of a centerboard. The boat’s wide beam made room below for a spacious interior, and the design caught on quickly with cruising sailors looking for a small bluewater sailboat. Click here to read more about the Nonsuch 30 .

– SHOW THEM HOW MUCH YOU CARE – Nothing says ‘I love you’ like making sure the kids’ life jackets are snugged up and properly buckled. Safety Tip Provided by the U.S. Coast Guard

Debuted in 1971 in California, the Newport 27 was an instant success on the local racing scene. For a modest 27-footer, the Newport 27 has an unusually spacious interrior with over 6 feet of standing headroom. With 4 berths, a table, nav station, head and galley the Newport 27 has all the amenities you might find in a much bigger boat, all in a compact package. While quick in light air, the drawback of the tiller steering becomes apparent with increasing breeze and weather helm often leading to shortening sail early. Click here to read more about the Newport 27.

First splashed in 1969, the Balboa 26 continues to enjoy a strong following among budget-minded cruisers. Built sturdy and heavy, all of the boat’s stress points are reinforced. The spacious cockpit comfortably seats 4 and is self bailing, ensuring that sailors stay dry. While only 26 feet, the Balboa still has room for a double berth, galley with stove and freshwater pump, and an optional marine head or V-berth. The Balboa has the ability to sleep five, though the most comfortable number is two or three. Under sail, the Balboa is fast and maneuverable, but may prove a handful in heavy breeze as weather helm increases. Click here to read more about the Balboa 26.

Cape Dory 28

While the sleek lines and the teak accents of the Cape Dory 28 may grab the eye, it is the performance of the boat that make it unique. The Cape Dory comes with all amenities that you might need available, including a V-berth, 2 settees, and a head. Safe, sound and comfortable as a cruiser it is still capable of speed. Quick in light wind and sturdy and capable in heavy air, it is off the wind where the Cape Dory 28 shines with a balanced helm and the ability to cut through chop and still tack perfectly. Click here to read more about the Cape Dory 28.

Islander Bahama 28

On top of being a real eye-catcher, the Islander Bahama 28, with its 5-foot-6-inch draft and 3,300 pounds of ballast, sails beautifully, tracks well, and responds quickly to the helm. Inspired by the International Offshore Rule, it is unusually wide, offering stability in breeze without sacrificing the sheer and lines that make it so attractive. Below deck, the Islander Bahama 28 comes standard with plenty of berths and storage space and a galley complete with stove, icebox and sink. Click here to read more about the Islander Bahama 28.

– CHECK THE WEATHER – The weather changes all the time. Always check the forecast and prepare for the worst case. Safety Tip Provided by the U.S. Coast Guard

Much like its older sibling, the S2 8.6 still holds its contemporary style, despite its 1983 introduction. Like all other S2 Yachts, the 8.6 is recognized for the quality craftsmanship that allows the boat to hold up today.The S2 8.6 is a very comfortable and easily managed coastal cruiser and club racer. It’s relatively stiff, its helm feels balanced, and it tracks well. On most points of sail, it compares favorably with other boats of similar size and type. Click here to read more about the S2 8.6.

Contessa 26

When the Contessa 26 was released in 1965, it immediately proved itself to be a strong, seaworthy vessel. The Contessa has continued to prove itself throughout its lifetime, being the boat of choice for two solo circumnavigations under the age of 21. While upwind performance leaves some wanting, the boat is sturdy and can carry full sail in up to 20 knots of breeze. Suited more for single-handing, the Contessa lacks standing headroom and the accommodations are sparse. Nonetheless, the Contessa 26 performs well as a daysailer with guests aboard. Click here to read more about the Contessa 26.

The Hunter 27 perfectly encompasses the pocket cruiser ideal. Even if you don’t want a big boat, you can still have big boat amenities. With the generously spacious layout, wheel steering and a walkthrough transom the Hunter feels much larger than 27 feet. Step below deck and any doubts you had that the Hunter was secretly a big boat will be gone. The amenities below are endless; a full galley including stove, microwave and cooler, head with full shower, several berths and not to mention a saloon with seating for 6. The Hunter 27 has reset the benchmark for 27-footers. Click here to read more about the Hunter 27.

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Best Small Sailboats Under 20 Feet

The ideal size boat for beginners is anything under 20 feet. So, what are the best small sailboats under 20 feet? Let’s find out.

October 17, 2023

This article may contain affiliate links where we earn a commission from qualifying purchases.

Smaller boats are easy to navigate and not a hassle to maintain compared to larger yachts, which is why many choose sailboats under 20 feet as the ideal starter boat.

From the Catalina 16.5 to the Beneteau First 20 or the Marlow Hunter 15, there are many smaller sailboats under 20 feet that offer beginner or expert sailors great value for money. Many sailing enthusiasts prefer smaller sailboats because they are easy to handle and are cheaper to own.

No two 20 feet sailboats are made equal, which is why you need to do your research and find the best fit for you. We have gone through many blogs, articles, and videos on the sailing yachts below 20 feet and are here to share with you the best options available in the market today.

As sailing enthusiasts who have owned multiple sailing boats below 20 feet, we are in the ideal position to help guide you through the process so that you are able to make a more informed decision when it comes to investing in a small yacht.

Table of Contents

‍ Best Small Sailboats Under 20 Feet

Small sailboats are the way to go sailing RIGHT NOW, not after you retire or discover the "ideal" bluewater cruising boat. "Go tiny, go simple, go now," is the first premise of cruising philosophy.

Small yachts may be inexpensive, straightforward, and seaworthy. However, they are uncommon in today's cruising grounds. We could count the number of under 30-foot sailboats we've seen after three years and 13,000 nautical miles of bluewater traveling. They were all skippered by persons in their 20s and 30s. Today's anchorages are brimming with 40, 50, and 60-foot ocean sailboats, but that doesn't mean a tiny sailboat can't sail around the world.

The Saffier SE 33 UD

If you're looking for a high-performance daysailer, the Saffier Se 33 UD is a great option. The designers, the Hennevanger brothers, put a lot of effort and money into making this dream boat a reality. The vacuum-infused construction and high-quality polish of the boat demonstrate the production facilities.

Saffier offers a variety of models ranging in size from 21 to 37 feet, all of which have been fully tested for seaworthiness. Given the size of these boats, it's logical to expect that they'll be tough to sail. This is not the case with these boats, though. One person may sail even the largest versions with ease.

In 2014, the Se 33 UD was released with a sporty style. Thanks to its strong sprayhood, it sails effortlessly in all weather. The sailboat has a handy self-draining cockpit that allows any water to drain off. A folding transform and two-meter benches are included in the cockpit. The boat has ample room for a four-person crew, and you can even take a brief snooze below deck.

This high-end yacht is a good choice if you have a large budget. For new boats, the starting price is around $150,000. If you're looking for something really entertaining, check out the new Se 27 model. The latest versions have a top speed of 20 knots.

The Norseboat 17.5

Looking for a one-of-a-kind daysailer that will stand out in a crowd? The Norseboat 17.5 might be exactly what you're looking for. This one-of-a-kind sailboat dubbed the "Swiss Army Knife of Boats," can be sailed or rowed.

But wouldn't row this boat takes a lot of effort? No. With the boat's sheer, no way! The fiberglass hull has a lot of sheers, which is an intentional and effective design for effortless rowing. So, even if there's no wind, you can still have a good time rowing while getting some workout. With strong enough winds, you may sit back and relax while the jib and mainsail take care of the rest.

The Norseboat 17.5 is ideal for daysailers looking for a high-performance boat with classic styling. But whether you're a beginner sea kayaker or a cruising sailor wishing to downsize, you'll find its famous pedigree to be a terrific fit for you.

A small draught, furling headsail, a full battened mainsail, and a trademark curving headboard are just a few of the features. The lightweight boat has two rowing stations and works admirably, whether rowed or driven by the wind. It also offers lots of storage space. The boat's modest weight makes it simple to move. All you need is a mid-sized automobile to haul it.

The Paine 14

This sailboat is modeled after the well-known Herreshoff 12 1/2 e. The Paine 14 is essentially a smaller version of the latter. This daysailer will attract a lot of attention whether sailing or just parked at the marina because of its classic appearance.

However, this yacht is more than just a pretty face. The Paine 14 is lighter than its predecessor due to its smaller size. On the water, it is thus quicker and more agile. Despite this, changes to the keel and rudder design have helped it maintain its stability in the water. Other benefits of its size include ease of trailering, low maintenance, and simple storage and transportation. This sailboat is great if you're seeking a basic sailboat.

The Laser 13”

This is probably one of the smallest boats on this list and is an excellent option for beginners who are not ready to take on the responsibility of maintaining or paying for larger boats just yet. If you are just testing the waters, then this is a smart option if you find that sailing isn’t your cup of tea.

The 13' 10" Laser dinghy is an excellent alternative for one or two persons looking for a workout and adrenaline rush in a breeze or simply plain pleasant sailing in lighter breezes. That is if you don't mind the fiberglass boat's small weight and strong sail making it simple to capsize—and recover from.

The Laser is an international sailing class that competes in everything from Olympic sailing competitions to club races. Most of the 200,000 boats manufactured over the years are just sailed for enjoyment, thanks to the 1969 design's single sail, two-part mast, daggerboard, and kick-up rudder, all of which make it very easy to store, and carry, and launch.

LaserPerformance sells new boats for less money, which is why they are one of the favorites for first-timers and those sailing enthusiasts who are on a budget. LaserPerformance sells yachts for around $7,500, as well as a variety of rigs and sails as well as replacement components. Used boats, as you might expect, are also easily available.

The Hobie 16

It is easy to see why the historic Hobie 16 , which made its debut in Southern California way back in 1969, made it on this list. Since then, the business has produced a number of additional multihulls, but the 16s have sold over 100,000 times, which is an incredible number.

The Hobie 16's fiberglass-and-foam hull takes away the requirement of traditional daggerboards, thanks to its kick-up rudders. Its huge trampoline provides enough room for movement or a suitable spot to put one's feet when hanging from the two trapezes with a hull flying. A main and jib sail are included, and a douse kit and trailer with a beach dolly option.

The West Wight Potter 19

This type is popular because of its excellent performance, cutting it close to 20 feet. This miniature cruiser was initially shown in 1971. It has since gained a devoted following, particularly among trailer sailors. While it isn't the cheapest tiny sailboat (it costs about $26,000), you will surely get your money's worth.

The Potter 19 is compact and light in terms of capability. Its performance in the water, however, is unaffected. In fact, it has a lot of punch for its tiny. People remark about this yacht’s stability and ease of handling in particular.

It also features a retractable keel that allows it to be beached completely. Alternatively, you will be astonished at how big and comfortable the interiors are, along with the fact that it is easy to rank the Potter 19 among luxury yachts for its many features and amenities.

The Montgomery 17

The Montgomery 17 is designed and made out of fiberglass by Montgomery Boats in Ontario, California. The boat boasts its way onto this list as a trailerable pocket cruiser. You get a keel and centerboard that takes the guesswork out of preparing the boat to be readily beached when gunkholing and draws slightly under 2 feet with the board up.

There's sitting headroom, a couple of bunks, a portable toilet, optional shore, and DC power, and a lot of storage space in the cuddy cabin. A four-part tackle makes it easy to raise the mast with relative ease. The builder claims to have taken his boat on journeys across the Gulf of California and to the state's coastline islands. In case you were wondering, Montgomery also offers 15-foot and 23-foot variants. The Montgomery 17 must be on your wish list if you're looking for a small sailboat with a cabin.

The Bluewater Cygnet 20

The Cygnet 20 is a great trailer sailer and pocket cruiser, and it has the potential to revitalize the sub-20-foot segment. The Cygnet has everything you want in a pocket cruiser: it's easy to transport, sail anywhere, and it's economical. It also happens to look gorgeous. Beaching the boat is simple because of its flat bottom and hand-laid fiberglass hull.

The Cygnet 20 is a fun weekend sailboat; as a result, while the cockpit can accommodate four to six people, it leaves less space below decks, but there is still enough space to sleep a crew of four. There are also several choices for customizing the cabin to your liking.

There are also several choices for customizing the cabin, but the typical form includes a V-berth, a portable toilet stored beneath the V-berth, a sink to starboard, two beds, and a portable stove beneath the cockpit. Apart from the swing keel box, the saloon table pulls out to seat four people, which is ideal for sailing solo or taking friends along for a weekend trip.

The Beneteau First 20

This is often ranked as one of the best trail-able pocket cruisers and for good reason. It's beautiful, tiny, has a retractable keel, and is speedy, but because of its big cabin, it can also accommodate a small family for a weekend on the lake.

The hull of the First 20 is one of those that, although quite stable in windy conditions, allows you to have as much fun as possible. Unfortunately, Beneteau has stopped producing boats under 20 feet in order to focus on larger sailboats, but you may still find these boats for approximately $25,000 secondhand.

The Catalina 16.5

Catalina Yachts are known for their larger boats, but they also offer some fantastic smaller boats, such as the Catalina 16.5 . Because it features a huge and airy cockpit and a large storage box, this is one of the best small sailboats for family vacations. The Catalina 16.5 is a versatile boat with a hand-laminated fiberglass sloop that comes in two styles: centerboard and keel.

Because of the fiberglass centerboard, the stable hull form, and the rudder, the centerboard model has a strong sailplane that remains balanced. It also includes a tiller extension, adjustable trekking straps, and an overhaul that can be adjusted. It's vital to remember that these are both standard features.

It's worth noting that these features come standard on both variants. When it comes to the keel model, it's constructed with a high aspect keel as the cast lead and stainless steel keel bolts, making it ideal for mooring or docking when not in use.

In essence, the centerboard form is ideal for trailer storage, whilst the keel model may be left at the dock. Overall, the Catalina 16.5 is one of the greatest small sailboats available for around $10,000. This is undoubtedly an excellent example of what a daysailer is.

The Fareast 18

Fareast is a Chinese boat builder that has only been in business for around two decades. Despite this, the Fareast 18 is a competent cruiser-racer that will elevate your sailing to new heights. This boat has a retractable keel along with a nifty ballast bulb, a strong rig, and an enclosed cabin, in addition to its attractive appearance.

The Fareast 18's narrow shape with closed stern is unusual in this size, but the good news is that's not an issue in the Fareast 18. This design stresses speed while also making the boat easier to maintain. This boat is ideal for roughly six passengers and punches above its weight. It is, however, intended for one person to rig and launch.

Most sailors start to sail on a daysailer, and the author of this piece has a special place for the Lido 14 , which is where she began to sail. The little boat offers seats for six people, but it may be operated alone and even raced.

The first year the type was introduced, 200 boats were purchased, and 40 years later, roughly 6,300 Lido 14s had been produced. Although new boats are no longer available, old boats are still readily accessible. Although new boats are no longer produced, secondhand boats are readily available; there is an active owner's group and plenty of one-design racing in various regions of the nation.

In a pocket cruiser, don't expect to be sailing at great speeds. Monohulls with a lesser displacement will always be slower than monohulls with a bigger displacement. As a result, a smaller cruiser will take longer to complete a journey, leaving them more exposed to weather variations.

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Better Sailing

Best Pocket Cruisers Under 20 Feet

If you are looking for a pocket cruiser to help you learn the ropes and get started sailing, daysail, or for a weekend-long fun sailing trip, then you are in the right place. In this article, we are taking a look at some affordable options to get you started in the sailing game. It doesn’t matter if you are looking for a boat with a cabin or not because we have both options, all under 20 Feet!

Obviously, the best pocket cruiser for me is not necessarily the best one for you. For example, when I am out looking to purchase a boat, I am always looking for something that can accommodate at least 2 people for at least a couple of days. However, you could be looking for a faster daysailers with no cabins because you only want to use it for daysailing. Not to worry, I wrote this article with you in mind as well.

Beneteau First 20

This is probably my favorite trailable pocket cruiser on the list. It is gorgeous, compact, has a retractable keel, it is fast but can also accommodate a small family for a weekend on the water thanks to its spacious interior. The First 20 has one of those hulls that, despite being very sturdy in windy weather, will allow you to have fun like a child! Unfortunately, however, Beneteau has suspended production on boats under 20 feet to focus on larger sailboats, but you can still find these boats for sale around $25,000 used.

>>Also Read: Best Sailboats to Live On

Pacific Seacraft Flicka 20

This is also a wonderful pocket cruiser that feels like a much larger blue-water sailboat. For her small size and displacement, she handles exceptionally well on the water. She is not only extremely fast for her size, but she is also very seaworthy and has a kind motion, and seasoned sailors will tell you that she has a very good reputation for keeping her crew safe. It is rarely available, but if you look online you will probably find a few for sale throughout the US.

Liteboat XP

This intriguing 20-footer is what you get when someone who has rowed solo across the Atlantic decides to produce a fun pocket cruiser that can either be rowed or sailed. It’s the brainchild of Mathieu Bonnier, while renowned French naval architect Sam Manuard did the design work and North Sails helped develop the simple but efficient rig. Use of carbon keeps total weight down to 145kg, including a 20kg bulb on the bottom of the centerboard – that’s 15% lighter than a Wayfarer dinghy.

Lasers are a great choice for trailerable daysailers suitable for two adults. If you want to experience adrenaline or a cool breeze, or just sailing into nowhere, this 13’10” Laser is the option available in the small boat section. This boat has a fiberglass body that is lightweight and has a powerful sail making it easy to capsize and recover fast. This boat is also raced as an international sailing class and has participated in competitions like Olympic sailing championships to normal club racing.

Almost all the 200,000 boats that have been made over the years were made for fun as the 1969 design only had a single sail, daggerboard, and two-part mast. It also has a kick-up rudder, which is easy to transport, store and launch. These boats are available at less than $5K, and it is also available in different sized sails and rigs along with spare parts. Used boats are also available easily.

>>Also Read: Best Small Sailboats To Sail Around The World

Catalina 16.5

Catalina 16.5 is the largest sailboat that the brand makes under 20 feet. The Catalina brand is known for its own large cruise boats, but they have small boats too. This boat is a hand-laminated fiberglass sloop, which is one of the most versatile boats, and it has two options, i.e. one with a centerboard (5″) and shoal-draft keel (4’5″). If you require to store a trailer, then buy the centerboard, the lead-keel vessel gives the stability to stay parked at a dock. Like most boats that are built by Catalina, this boat has a huge self-bailing cockpit. It also has a waterproof hatch and a storage space. The standard equipment has a tiller extension and hiking straps. You can get out on the side deck for better visibility forward. The new version of this boat is available at $10,000.

Hobie 16 Catamaran

This is another great design with a great turn of speed and space for four people. The Hobie 16 beach catamaran has sold over 100,000 units since its release in the year 1969. It debuted in Southern California. It is a lightweight boat that weighs only around 320 pounds. This boat has an asymmetric fiberglass sandwich hull that has kick-up rudders. It means that it can reach all the way to the beach. This boat has a sail area of 218 square feet. This boat also has a douse kit, a trailer, spinnaker. As you can see from the photo of this sailing dinghy, it is only suitable for daysailing since it lacks cabins, saloon, etc. This is a fast boat and ideal for some sailing fun, and it costs around $2,000-12,000 depending on the age of the sailboat and whether you buy it new or used.

>>Also Read: Best Sailboats Under 100k

Marlow-Hunter 15

If you need an affordable, low-maintenance, and new knockabout to teach your children sailing, then Marlow-Hunter 15 is the best thing you can use. This boat has high freeboard and fiberglass construction. You can do lots of things in this boat without capsizing, failing, or breaking it. It has a self-bailing cockpit that means when inside water, it can find a quick exit, and the wide beams keeps her steady in the strong breeze or any kind of weight shifts that happened along the ride. This boat allows four people to sail together, and when you are done, you can store it in your garage or your trailer. The best thing about this boat is that it has no wood that requires varnishing, and you can buy this boat at around $10,000.

Bluewater Cygnet 20

The Cygnet 20 is an excellent addition to the trailer sailer and pocket cruiser market that could easily rejuvenate the under 20 feet market section. Having everything that you want in a pocket cruiser: take everywhere, sail anywhere, sail easily, and affordable, the Cygnet has the added benefit of looking adorable as well. With its flat bottom and hand-laid fiberglass hull, it is an easy matter of beaching the boat.

The Cygnet 20 makes an enjoyable weekend sailboat; to this end, while the cockpit is large enough to fit four to six people, it makes less space for down below, but there is still room enough to sleep a crew of four. Also, there are various options to customize the cabin the way you want, but the standard configuration with the V-berth, a portable toilet stored underneath; a single burner portable stove to port with a sink to starboard two long single berths running under the cockpit. Also, the saloon table folds out to seat four on top of the swing keelbox.

Cygnet 20 Best Blue Water Pocket Cruiser

Final Thoughts

Finding the best pocket cruiser or daysailer is not an easy task. I hope this list will be helpful to pick your ideal vessel for your sailing experiences. However, keep in mind that this list is not exhaustive and if you find a pocket cruiser that you like and fits your budget you should definitely take it out on the water to give it a spin and see how you like it. On a last note, you can find plenty of pocket cruisers for sale if you look at your local marina, browse websites like BoatersWorld, YachtWorld, Boat24, BoatTrader, Boats.com, Craigslist, and even FaceBook marketplace.

Peter is the editor of Better Sailing. He has sailed for countless hours and has maintained his own boats and sailboats for years. After years of trial and error, he decided to start this website to share the knowledge.

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Boat Profile

A Stevenson project

From Issue Small Boats Annual 2021 March 2020

T he Weekender is a plywood gaff-sloop pocket yacht designed by Peter Stevenson and first presented to the public in a two-page article in the March 1981 issue of Popular Science magazine. In the decades that have followed, it has been a very popular design. I was drawn to its classic look and simple construction. Eager to learn how to sail—and to find out if my wife would enjoy sailing too—I was excited about the journey of the build and encouraged by the many helpful examples of other builders who are linked to the Stevenson website.

The Weekender draws 3′ with the rudder deployed; with its blade retracted, the hull draws 1′.

I bought the set of plans and the two companion DVDs. The combination of the 44 printed pages and three-and-a-half hours of video were helpful, entertaining, and, above all, encouraging. The plans are well illustrated with some photos and many nice drawings. There are no full-sized patterns, so each part is drawn right onto the materials. Step-by-step instructions keep the process going in the correct order. As a shipbuilder, I found the instructions clear and straightforward. My granddaughter, who was three years old when we started and nearly seven when we finished, was as eager to build the boat as I was, and we watched the video instructions several times together. Even at her young age, she could recognize the steps we had completed and the ones we had yet to accomplish, a good indication of how easy the plans were to follow. For me, the video clarified the few places in the plans that I was having difficulty understanding. Mike Stevenson, Peter’s son, who took over the business, has assured me that the most recent revision has eliminated some of those sticking points.

The Weekender has a very unusual construction: it is built right-side up with the stem and keel serving as the strongback. The deep keel and its integral stem are made of three laminates of 4/4 pine, fir, or mahogany. The keel, 10″ at its deepest, is rigid enough to support the build. I built a cradle to hold it upright throughout the build. Plywood is joined with butt plates to get the necessary length and width for the bottom panel; the bottom is attached to keel with screws and epoxy. The deck is added and secured at the stem and then temporarily propped up until the transom and three bulkheads are installed. The side panels go on next and they’ll extend above the deck to become part of a toerail. The construction then follows a more common sequence, with the assembly of the cockpit and the cabin. The hull, deck, cockpit, and cabin are sheathed with 6-oz fiberglass and epoxy.

The plans indicate a solid mast, and I built mine as per the instructions; however, a lighter hollow version would be much easier to raise. Details to build the wheel, trailboards, towing bitt, and bowsprit are included. There is also an option included to add a taffrail.

The forward hatch provides access to the storage space in the bow. The block to the right, held upright by a spring, is for the single sheet that controls the jib boom.

M y PT Cruiser has enough power to pull our Weekender. The boat has a somewhat deep keel for a flat-bottomed boat, so bunks are required under chines to support the hull. At the ramp, it’s easiest to float the boat off the trailer; at shallow ramps it can be a bit of a struggle sliding it off, in part because the two batteries I use for the trolling-motor auxiliary power add significantly to the Weekender’s weight. However, the boat can be winched up onto a trailer that’s not fully submerged. It takes as little as 30 minutes after arrival at the ramp to get the rigging in place and have it in the water; the most time-consuming part of launching and loading the boat is almost always the attention it attracts from people watching. When people gather around, the time at the ramp stretches out to a bit more than an hour.

The mast tabernacle is created with two strap hinges—one aft to act as the pivot, and one forward with a loose pin to lock the mast upright—and it works well. The two pairs of shrouds have turnbuckles that are adjusted each time the mast is raised; they remain connected, and only the forestay is removed for lowering the mast.

The 5’ bowsprit is fixed and anchors the forestay at its tip and the jib’s 60″ clubfoot at its middle. The club foot pivots about halfway out on the sprit, and the jib clears the mast when tacking and requires only a single sheet. I have added a downhaul to the jib so that I can both raise and lower the jib going no farther forward than the companionway. I also led the main’s throat and peak halyards to cockpit so I didn’t have to go forward to the mast to drop the sails.

To help keep the mainsail from overwhelming the cockpit when it’s lowered, I added lazyjacks. The plans specify eyebolts and a bit of pipe and metal strapping to make the gooseneck; I instead made an aluminum gooseneck with an extension that allows me to pivot the boom fully vertical and scandalize the mainsail. When coming into harbor, it’s a quick way to douse the mainsail and clear the cockpit for docking. This has proven most helpful especially when sailing alone. I also fabricated an aluminum masthead fitting to help with the rigging and give me a base for an anchor light and a wind-sock vane.

The rudder is in a rudder box that is an integral part of the tiller arm that is connected by lines and pulleys to facilitate a wheel. The rudder must be pivoted and locked up for transport. The wheel keeps the cockpit free of a long tiller that would most certainly use up the limited space. I find it quite handy.

The Weekender carries a total of 120 sq ft of sail. The jib, with its boom and single sheet, is self tending, so tacking is uncomplicated.

U nder sail, the Weekender is like a sports car and very snappy in response on most points of sail. It can sail remarkably close to the wind for a gaff rig, and the self-tending jib makes tacking a snap. Its club foot is an excellent touch to the rigging, making singlehanding very simple. The Weekender can ghost along with hardly any discernible wind, although in light air it can be a bit hard to tack if the boat doesn’t have quite enough way on; the long keel requires some momentum to overcome its resistance to sweeping sideways when tacking. I have found that moving my weight to the downwind side forces the boat to heel, and it will gain speed and increase its ability to turn.

The Weekender is a pretty stable little boat, and ours is made a bit more so by the weight of the batteries for the trolling motor. It is stable when one is standing on the foredeck; however, it is a small boat, so if you step off-center it will move accordingly. But I have never felt that it was going to come out from under me.

The Weekender was initially designed with a centerboard, but the full keel provided good performance to windward and the board and trunk were eliminated from the design, freeing up cabin space.

The hull can take waves better than one might guess for being so close to the water. The flat bottom can slap a bit depending on the angle of approach to the waves, but that same flat bottom can also surf down waves quite well, getting some help from the broach-countering directional stability of the full-length keel. I have found the cockpit to be generally dry with only occasional spray from hitting a larger wave. I prefer fair-weather sailing with our boat. When running dead downwind, wing-on-wing, the boat performs well; it’s a comfortable point of sail for the crew, with the hull sitting pretty much bolt upright.

For auxiliary power, we have a 55-lb-thrust electric trolling motor. While the plans call for a mount made of a 2″ x 10″ chunk of wood through-bolted to the transom, I designed and welded an aluminum bracket. The motor pushes the boat at just the right speed for harbor maneuvers, and provides an occasional boost to make a tack in light air. I have the two batteries on separate switches, but they can be combined for back-up power. I have run out of power only when I forgot to charge one of the batteries.

The cockpit benches include dry storage compartment aft and extensions of the cabin space forward.

The cockpit is not large, but it has enough room for the me and my wife to be comfortable, even when we’re sailing with our granddaughter and our small dog. The cockpit footwell is not self-draining and we have been caught several times in squalls that filled half of the cockpit, so I added a bilge pump under the hinged step at the forward end of the cockpit. The cockpit seats have hatches, and aft sections serve as storage. The curved coaming, shaped from a stack of 4/4 stock, makes a comfortable backrest and keeps water out when the toerail is in the water under sail. I cold-molded my coaming out of 1/8″ x 2″ sapele.

The wheel is more than an affectation. It doesn’t crowd the cockpit as a tiller would.

I added running lights to our Weekender as well as a small LED to illuminate the cockpit for the times when we are out later than expected or after dark at anchor. My wife and I have slept aboard comfortably on several occasions. We rig a boom tent for privacy and rain protection so we can keep the companionway open through a warm night; to clear the berths, we move most of the gear that usually resides in the cabin into the cockpit. The bottom serves as the berth and is flat, save for one transverse butt block, but with foam mattresses it’s not noticeable. The space works best sleeping with heads forward and our feet aft to take advantage of the space under the cockpit benches. Shelves with rails on their sides are a nice feature and are in fact part of the rigid framing.

The bulkhead at the forward end of the cabin allows access to the storage compartment in the bow. Rails on the shelves port and starboard keep gear in place while under sail.

T he designed cabin has sitting headroom if you are of average height—I made our cabin a couple of inches higher than the design, for even more sitting headroom. There is no cabin footwell, so sitting is with legs outstretched on the bottom. There is access through the forward bulkhead to storage space under the foredeck, but it is easiest to use the foredeck hatch for larger items. The storage bin/seat at the companionway has proven to be a great addition for holding safety equipment, and it has also been a good speaker box for our CD player.

The aft end of the cabin provides a place to stow a portable toilet when it’s not in use. At right, one of the spaces under the cockpit benches is visible.

Ken Hauenstein lives in Burlington, Washington, just a few miles from Puget Sound, and is a general contractor who does all manner of work including interior boat remodels. He dreamed of working with boats from an early age and had his first real exposure working in a boat factory building interiors for cabin cruisers. He later worked in various shipyards and ran his own cabinet shop. His last shipyard job ended in 2017 as he made plans to retire. He started HUMMINGBIRD while working there. Since then he has built two dinghies, one wood and one aluminum. He is currently building a large aluminum ketch. He hasn’t set a launch date, and won’t because he finds the work therapeutic and likes to give the details all the attention they deserve.

Weekender Particulars

LOA/19′ 6″ LOD/16′ Beam/6′ Draft/3′ (1′’ with the rudder up) Hull weight/550 lbs Sail area/120 sq ft Crew capacity/Daysailing, up to four; Overnight, two cozily, one easily Auxiliary Power/up to 5 hp outboard or 45-lb thrust electric

Plans ($45) and DVDs ($57) for the Weekender are available from Stevenson Projects .

Is there a boat you’d like to know more about? Have you built one that you think other Small Boats Magazine readers would enjoy? Please email us!

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Comments (45)

Is there really enough headroom to use the porta-potti in the cabin?

The headroom in the cabin is limited to sitting, so the porta-potti is just stored there. I took the photographs for the review and I had only enough headroom for sitting on the floor cushions.

The cushions in the cabin have a removable section to move the porta-potti into the companionway should the need be dire. We have never used it since we put it in there however.

First, I would congratulate you for the amazing job you have done. I appreciate it as I’m currently building a Weekender for some time. The hull is quite finished now and the next step is the rig. I would be very interested in getting some pictures of the gooseneck and masthead that are looking very practical and better looking than the instructions suggested. J-Guy

I love my Weekender! It is indeed fun, stable and dry. Hoping this season to get a better video than this one from my iPhone.

J-Guy, Here are photos of the gooseneck and masthead fittings.

Who fabricated that for you?

Mark, I fabricated those myself. I was project manager in a shipyard while building HUMMINGBIRD and most of the parts I needed for them came out of the scrap bin. I fit and weld aluminum and steel.

When trailing: a) Does one unship the bowsprit so as not to need a trailer with a long front tongue? b) Do the spars stow within the length of the deck or overhang? Thanks in advance

I enjoyed the Weekender article, especially because I have built one of these boats. I hope this photo of my boat on the trailer will help answer Simon’s question. Notice I bolted on a short 2 x 10 forward on the trailer to carry the outboard motor, which is easily carried to the transom prior to launch. This way, potholes on the highway don’t bother me so much. The boat sets up quickly for sailing.The trailer is a bit large for the boat. The wider and lower bass-boat-size trailer gives a better towing experience and it all still fits in my garage.

I have built and sailed a Weekender. I sailed it for four years. I have 30 years of sailing experience, and can tell you this design has some very serious flaws, mostly around safety, that I realized as I sailed it. First, it’s not self righting. At all. If you put it over, you are done. It will not pop back up, and becomes almost impossible to right again without help. And even if you get it back up, it cannot be bailed easily. And this assumes having as much flotation installed as you can! Without flotation, it might very well go under. It has no low ballast, which is a problem in many ways. Also, it has a very difficult time coming about. Very, very difficult time. It has to do with the sail plan, the hull shape, and the full length keel. I modified the keel quite a bit after the first year, adding to the center, and reducing it from the front 1/2, and that helped, but it still had a hard time coming about. This boat should only be sailed in very protected waters in 12 knots or less wind. it is easy to build, easy to trailer, and easy to beach, and looks very salty, but it has very poor sailing characteristics. Go to WoodenBoat’s forums and search for the Weekender. I wished I had before I built it!

I’ve made five Weekenders, two Vacationers, and two Skipjacks, and all have very similar hull forms. We have sailed them in a broad range of conditions and locations. They tack fine, they point better than they probably should, and they just work. I’ve never capsized any of them, although I have felt them being overpowered at times and adjusted accordingly by easing off, reefing, or heading back in. There are all sorts of responses to strong wind, depending on the boat and the days.

I’m sorry that John built one of our Weekenders without really understanding what the boat is and what it is not. Like many pocket cruisers, the Weekender is not a ballasted, self-righting boat. Self-righting isn’t a standard that many sailing dinghy, pod-type boats, open sailing skiffs, dories, or other traditional boats meet.

I just fielded a query from a customer a few days ago about whether to add ballast or not to a Skipjack, our 14’ open-cockpit gaff sloop. He had wanted to add 300 lbs of ballast to the keel of a 240-lb boat. The boat’s structure is not designed for this load, and the addition of ballast that close to the hull bottom and not extended away from it on a keel just wouldn’t be that helpful and wouldn’t make the boat self-righting. If someone doesn’t know how to sail an open dinghy, it’s probably not for them.

I’m sorry John had trouble sailing his Weekender, but we think the design sails well, given the limitations of a low-aspect-ratio gaff rig and a modified dory-type hull form. Over the decades, we have had a far more positive letters, emails, and phone calls about these boats than negative. Even the review here reflects this. We are sensitive to the fact that there are people who don’t have a feel for sailing these types of boats, or perhaps haven’t the range or depth of experience to draw from, and might well be frustrated that tacking a Weekender is not like tacking like a Capri 14 or some similar easy-to-sail machine with a centerboard. We have a section in the plans to help with sailing and tacking, and a good amount of discussion in the video as well.

I am truly sorry to hear, and entirely sympathetic with the unhappiness of having spent a lot of time building a boat only to be disappointed by it, but I don’t think that necessarily indicates a failing of the boat design. The Weekender, like the Vacationer and Skipjack, does tack fine, and it is an unballasted boat that is not self-righting. That’s the nature of the beast, and I’m sorry if it didn’t meet the expectations of a different boat.

I don’t think it’s possible to come up with a perfect design which will please and be all things to everyone. We surely don’t want to even hint that our little Weekender is anything like that. It is what it is: a cute, easy-to-build little sailboat with a classic-boat feel.

Mike Stevenson Stevenson Projects

I’ve had one I built for 19 years. I have had a lot of fun with my little boat, and it’s still happily sailing every summer. I sail her pretty enthusiastically, and have not had any problems. My dinghy-sailing training from when I was a kid prepared me for sailing a small, unballasted boat, so I didn’t suffer from any of the misapprehensions some folk seem to when they expect this boat to behave like a large, ballasted, round-bottomed keelboat- even when they ought to know better considering they built it themselves. It’s a fun little dinghy and is just right for camping with the built-in shelter. It can be rowed with oars or propelled by a trolling motor. It’s great for poking around islands and beaches and campsites.

Hi, Could Keith Shergold help me with the placement of the oar lock location and what would be the best oar length for my Weekender sailboat? Where do you think the best spot for the midship cleat would be? I am also building the trailer for my Weekender, so if you know where the axle placement location is best (noted distance from the back of the cabin bulkhead at seat level). Note there is no other builder nearby to help get the spec. from, so I would appreciate any input. I am stuck at the plywood build finish stage, and need to know where to put the backing in so I can get doing the real scary stuff: fiberglassing. I do not have heat in my garage so I have to wait for a dry sunny day with no or light wind, for the right conditions. So one more question: How much epoxy did you need to ‘glass? This is important to know because I live at the Lake, West Cove, Alberta, Canada, and need to go over an hour to the nearest possible supplier. I do not know at this time who is still open.

I bought the plans 20 years ago and have been sailing fiberglass boats since. I bought the revised plans last month and have the means to follow through this time. MEYG will be sailing in 2021 or 2022 out of Fairport Harbor on Lake Erie. “Life is too short to sail an ugly boat.” ~Anonymous. I don’t plan to take her out in a gale, but I think she will be a great boat for a single handed-sailor.

As I have mentioned before, I’ll put in a plug for water ballast. I like the clear poly water “cubes”, with a handle, as they come in different sizes (1 gal. to 5 gal.) and can be shifted easily as needed. One main advantage is that, in case of a capsize, the ballast has neutral buoyancy, and won’t sink the boat. Of course, water ballast won’t provide the righting moment that lead or iron sash weights will, but this safety factor to me is a strong argument.

At the end of the day, just dump the water out. No need to wrestle heavy ballast around once you’re back on shore.

Let me clarify: I’m not saying you shouldn’t build it. But if you are looking for a boat that seats more than three (and three is tight), is a responsive sailor, and you know you might get caught out in winds over 15 mph from time to time, this is not the boat for you. I decided to build this boat because of the way it looked, and its ease of building, and the fact that you use off-the-shelf parts for most of it. I realized afterword that I wanted a better performing boat. I sold it and bought a Montgomery 15, which is a better fit for me. And I will restate, I have a lot of sailing experience, and have sailed many different sizes and types of boats. This was the first I built. It does have problems coming about from time to time. Not always, but in certain wind conditions. At first I thought it was me, then after sailing other boats and coming back, I realized this design has some tacking problems. Is it a deal breaker? No. I would fall off a bit and try again, and could usually get through the second time. Pros: Easy to build esp. for beginners Easy to launch and trailer with pulpit design Can be beached Looks very salty Cons: Not self-righting or self-bailing Not a performance sailor Keep in protected waters Sail in winds under 12 knots (15 mph) unless you are an experienced sailor and have experienced crew

Here’s the Woodenboat Forum link . Lots of discussion here, and other folks with more experience than me. Same conclusions. Many defenders and detractors. I’m just stating my experience, and wish no ill will. It is easy to build, it looks great, and if you are looking for a boat to get out on a Saturday afternoon in protected waters, this is a great choice. It’s sailing characteristics are okay to good.

Thanks, John!

I appreciate your honest assessments and comments. It’s nice to have balanced forums and genuine information for people to learn from.

Mike Stevenson Projects

John, We have had one occasion in which an odd wind shear hit us during a tack and we rolled far enough to scoop water with the cockpit coamings. My wife got pretty wet. I let go the main sheet and she righted immediately. I have found the two batteries in the fore-peak do add a bit to her righting ability.

Hi Ken, I saw your sailboat pictures. Your side deck and cabin top had round wooden spools. Being new to sailboat building for myself and having none in the area, I was wondering are they fixed turning posts, ratcheting posts, or winches? And what are their designed uses? Your boat looks really nice in the pictures. Just viewing them is enough to make me want to finish my Weekender. Thanks

Gerald, They are actually bronze winches I salvaged from a boat we cut up in the shipyard I used to work at. The side-deck winches I use rarely except to tie things off. The cabin top winch I use to raise the main. It adds a bit more purchase.

Sorry to hear John had such an unpleasant experience with his Weekender.

I built one over the course of 7 years, making only one change to the plans … two 10″ x 18″ lexan panels on either side of the keel just forward of the storage box in the cabin giving me a “glass bottom” sailboat ! Helps the fishing and scalloping a great deal as our area ( Old Homosassa, Fl. 65 miles North of Tampa on the Gulf Coast ) has very ” skinny water”. That is anywhere from 24″ to 48″ unless one is in the river channels or the Gulf. HEART SONG has proven to be a very good sailor even in 20+ knot wind and seas in the Gulf. As always, the performance of a boat is generally equal to the performance of the crew.

As for self righting and being hard to tack ….. first of all … DO NOT cleat off or sit on the mainsheet ! If you get the lee rail in the water let the main out ! As for tacking … you will need to build up some good headway, then put the helm hard over in one quick motion (don’t be timid here). If in light airs it helps to backwind the jib, easily done with a club-foot jib.

What really helps here is to have some multi-hull sailing experience as the Weekender sails more like a “Multi” than a “Mono.” As for not being self-righting and difficult to tack, well the same can be said for one of the most popular afternoon sailboats ever built with over a million sailing worldwide. A design that has introduced thousand to the wonderful world of sailing. It’s called a HOBIE CAT. Our WEEKENDERS are in good company indeed !

Oh man, pictures please!

My wife and I had one of these in 1986 and sailed it on many lakes in Alaska. It was surprising how well it sailed. We were on Lake Louise one time and it was really blowing, we were getting pushed to the other side of the lake and we were getting concerned. I could not get the boat to come about, I finally insisted my wife raise the job and voila we came about and back to the dock. On another trip to Harding Lake we ended up racing a pretty modern ‘glass boat, I had the rail down in the water and water 1/2 way up the on the portholes, we ended up passing the other boat and we were hooked.

Great work! I just finished mine, have had a chance to sail it twice and am lovin’ it. I miss the build though – really enjoyed the process.

I was so excited to find a recent AND positive review on S.P. boats. My Pocket Cruiser is almost done and I am very happy with it. I made a few modifications, but overall it is great. Once I understood the type of boat it is and its positive attributes, it was perfect for my purposes. I am glad to see so many happy reviews. I’ve been planning to put an 86-lb trolling motor on it; I was so excited that a 55 -pounder does the trick.

Hello, Dennis,

I look forward to seeing your P.C. when you get it launched! I have a soft spot for that boat, as I did most of the design work on that one. It has a very different feel from the dory-type hulls: The beamier cat-boat-inspired hull is really mellow and relaxing! Peter and I were once sailing the prototype in shallow water and didn’t realize we’d caught one of the lee-boards in the mud! We were happily talking away, just enjoying the gentle slap of the water and the light breeze, and then one of us said “Hey! I don’t think we’re moving anymore!” We laughed and pulled the board up and jibed around out of the shoal, but it really was a funny, mellow moment! I hope you have great fun with yours! Mike Stevenson Projects

Are those the battery boxes I see in the forepeak? I suppose it would make sense to try to balance out the weight of two adults in the cockpit.

I know in our Weekenders, we put the batteries up forward. The boat likes a bit of weight up forward to balance things, as you noted. I hate the longer wire runs, but larger gauge wires and 24v motors help minimize the losses. Mike Stevenson Projects

Yes, those are the battery boxes. My thinking, in addition to what has already been mentioned, was that the extra weight at the base of the mast would help work against the leverage in those moments when you may have held the main sheet a little too long and to tight. As I mentioned earlier, it has proven to pull her back in tight circumstances.

I recognize a lot of the names posting, and give you my support. I am building a Vacationer, a few hours a day, and am within a few weeks of painting the hull. The amount of time it takes to build depends on the level of finish on the boat. I am looking forward to being able to sail mine.

I’ve been sailing my Weekender for ten years now and have made many modifications to it. I wouldn’t change the basic boat at all now that I have a fairly good idea about how to sail it. I thought about ballast, but no way. I have done a capsize test with my Weekender and can tell you that mine pops right up with a little push on the keel. I’ve got a ton of floatation in mine and she floated pretty high when I took her over. I have also found that she will sail pretty well on her side if I don’t get nervous.

I crossed the Straits of Mackinac in twenty knots of breeze with no drama at all. I typically sail in winds in the high teens gusting well over 20 with the only downside being my old hands get tired. After ten years of learning to sail, she has never gone over on me and unless I have a stroke at the tiller I doubt that she ever will.

All around, best boat I can imagine.

Al, I can’t tell you how much my father would have loved to read your note. He was always very personally affected by letters and emails and photos our builders sent in, which makes sense: A big part of why he designed things was to create fun for people. The original books he wrote about wooden toys came about because he just wanted to make some toys for me. That started a legacy of projects which just keeps going, and I’m very proud and thankful to be a part of it and to keep it rolling along!

I love your adventurous sailing nature! Thank you so much for sharing your fun and spirit with us all!

This is very encouraging. Here in Brazil I met a guy with a Weekender, he said it was one of the best small boats he had ever owned

Mike, DUCKIE is my first boat build and even after building a number of wooden boats, she is still my ideal. What I mean about best all around boat is that she is by far the easiest boat to live with for this old man. I can manhandle her on her trailer, pull her with a Toyota Corolla, and handle all the wind I care to go out in. Set up and take down are the easiest that I have experienced, except for all the attention she gets at the ramp. Well, she did win her class at the Port Aransas show, so there’s that. She takes off like a scalded cat after a tack, which really turns my crank. She is way faster than most think she should be. On occasion, I have seriously perturbed skippers on bigger, supposedly faster boats by passing them and then waiting for them, good times. Describing her as a dirt bike on water is pretty apt. Her light-air ability is the best in my fleet. I could go on all day. Bottom line, learn how to sail a gaffer and take advantage of a sharp chine, and most will understand what I’m saying.

Al, I hear ya!! (and not just creator-bias: I have felt that kick in the pants when one tacks and Off We GO!)

All the best, and stay safe up thataway!

Very much enjoyed the article and all the discussions. She is a handsome little boat that I am sure is quite pleasurable to sail. I have a gaff-rigged Eastport pinky ketch and a Sedgwick Sailing peapod that I designed, based on the Washington County peapod shown in Chapelle’s book. She is 13’ 6”, reduced from 15’ 3” with a long straight keel. She tracks like she is on rails and accelerated rapidly. In response to the various comments regarding tacking, I have found that technique is key. Head up very slowly and just before you come up into the wind, kick the tiller over and voila! Never fails. There is no doubt you can have as much fun with a small boat as a big one. I’ve had a blast sailing with the Small Reach Regatta in Maine for the past few years. The Weekender would be a welcome participant. I always look forward to the monthly submissions. Thanks for sharing.

Yep, that sounds like great fun! I’d love to join you one of these years, if the Fates allow. I very much agree with you (not surprisingly!): The lightweight gaffer is a Fun Machine, and one only has to look at the shots of the sandbaggers of decades past to see the seriously-exciting-looking fun they seem to have been having!

All the best from the West Coast — Stay safe, all!

Great project! I fell in love with it as soon as I saw it. We should thank Peter for his talent for combining simplicity, reasonable seaworthiness, and beauty. I’ve already finished building my boat and I’m looking forward to going on a serious voyage.

I built my Weekender back in 2000 and completed her around 2005. Loved the building process and sailing her. I was truly amazed at just how well she handles and tracts. The gaff sail rig truly maximizes the sail area. Looking forward to building another one some day. And Mike, when I do I’ll order another set of plans from you. Great boat!

Beautiful workmanship! I especially love the character of the shipyard-leftovers and self-fabricated parts! How well suited would you say the sailing is to the area? Any modifications you’d make if you got to start all over again (besides the very sensible lights, headroom, etc. that you mentioned in the article)? I’m looking to build my first boat soon and I think I’m on the same water as you, Ken. Would definitely look forward to building a Weekender!

As a avid carpenter I am surprised at the absence of glassing after so much work into such a beautiful craft – I am envisioning a whole lot of screw joints coming ” disjointed ” as they eventually become wet and damp – What would be the offset to elevating the cabin roof another foot? Even at 2021-22 prices would anyone want a stiffer (rot-resistant) stem when putting this sprite under the stress of beaching, trailering, or keeling in a 25-knot wind? And ad yuears to her life? Well worth the mahogany or joined oak that she deserves. Comments welcome, especially those that have plied this beaut 10 years or better.

I have sailed my Weekender for over ten years now and can vouch for the toughness of the boat in all regards. I once sailed her up the rough concrete landing at a marina under full sail in twenty knots with no damage at all. I had a plastic shoe on the keel, but it was only scratched a bit. There was an avid crowd of witnesses at the time, and they were shocked to see me laughing and shoving her back in the water. If the landing is crowded, I always beach the boat out of the way to wait my turn, and over the years, my boat is like new. My keel is made of ACX 3/4 inch plywood which has stayed straight and un-degraded.

I glassed the entire outside, but left the interior for paint. I painted the interior very carefully to ensure that it would stand up to a dunking. As long as water doesn’t stand around inside she is okay.

I also added two inches to the height of the cabin, and I don’t think I would add more because I don’t want to ruin the look of the boat. I have noticed that the designers once built a Weekender with a pop up, or removable top. Not the worst idea if sitting upright is important. If I am going to spend any time in the cabin, I simply pile all my junk against the forward bulkhead and recline against that. I have also learned the drawbacks of too much windage, which the cabin is the primary culprit therein. You will notice it.

I`ve read this article about the Weekender Sailboat now twice. This is a very good description about the Weekender and I can really agree in all Points. I built one and yes it’s a joy to sail. I also raise the cabin height double than the original. It’s much comfortable. There is one Thing where I’m not so happy. The foredeck is drawn flat and the water can not flow overboard. Unfortunately I recognized it too late. In that time I was not so experienced in boatbuilding. Another thing was hard to learn the imperial measurements.

I present my Building Story on the Stevenson website. I hope you can enjoy

So thank you for this nice article to read.

With Kind regards from Germany!

Michael Beckmann

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How Does A Self-Righting Boat Work? Life-Changing Approach!

A voyager who has ever encountered tremendous waves or heavy wind riding in a boat must have observed how a boat heels at one side but rolls back to the upright state. A self-righting boat is the most correct choice if sea conditions are so poor that heels exceed angles.

When external forces like heavy wind or large waves push a boat and cause it to incline in a direction, a boat tends to get back to its self-right position because of the buoyancy force that emerges from the underwater hull shape.

However, based on the design, a boat can not get back to its initial position anymore after reaching a maximum angle of heel. The only boats which tend to get back to their upright condition, even up to a 180-degree inclination, are called self-righting boats .

How Does A Self-righting Boat Work?

Mighty wind pressure or pushing from large waves causes a boat heeling. However, in spite of the inclination, a well-designed boat tends to return to its upright condition.

The self-righting boat rolls back to the upright condition because of the positive righting moment. The underwater portion of the vessel creates a buoyancy force that manages to roll back to its initial condition. A self-righting boat can roll back to the upright condition even after 180 degrees of inclination.

The gravity force pushes downwards and the buoyancy force pushes the vessel upwards. So, when these two forces are not in a line, a rotating moment emerges that actually causes the self-righting action of a boat.

Thus, falling in a mighty storm, a boat naturally rolls from one side to another and attempts to get back to an upright condition.

How Can A Lifeboat Right Itself?

A lifeboat can right itself because of its self-righting moment. The self-righting moment in a lifeboat develops from the gravity and buoyancy force. The principle of uprighting can be better explained in the two following diagrams.

Self-right boat diagram: Upright Condition diagram

In a normal upright condition, the gravity force (G) is due to the self-weight of the vessel, and the buoyancy force (B) is due to the underwater pressure acting in a line. In this condition, the righting moment is zero. When external forces cause the heeling of the lifeboat, the shape of the underwater volume changes as the healing occurs.

Thus, the acting position of the buoyancy force also shifts. So, gravity force (G) and buoyancy force (B) do not act in a line anymore. Consequently, the distance between the gravity line and the buoyancy line, which is called righting lever (GZ), increases.

These two opposite forces cause a rotating moment on the lifeboat to right it back to the initial condition. The more is righting lever, the higher is the righting moment.

As long as the righting lever remains positive, the self-righting moment remains positive. This positive self-righting moment causes the lifeboat to roll back to the upright condition.

What Does Self-righting Mean?

Self-righting boat means a boat that can roll back to upright condition by itself even after mighty external forces like wind and wave cause the vessel upside down.

The vanishing stability of a self-righting boat is almost 180 degrees. The vanishing stability is an angle up to which a vessel shows a positive self-righting moment.

What Makes A Boat Self-righting

A boat to be self-righting must have the righting moment positive up to 180-degree inclination, which means even after a vessel gets upside down because of heeling.

The keel of this type of vessel needs to be very heavy and usually occupies most of the percentage of the total weight. So, the vessel becomes unstable in the inverted state and rolls back toward the upright position.

Furthermore, the topside of this type of boat remains watertight so that the buoyancy force can act on the vessel even if the vessel is inverted.

Are Pilot Boats Self-righting?

Rafnar Cross Cabin SAR vessel - Example of the Self-righting boat

The boats that are used to facilitate the pilots’ transportation from one vessel to another are called pilot boats.

The capsize of the pilot boats is generally unexpected since they are usually considered self-righting.

However, in some cases, pilot boats have fallen in fatal and unexpected situations because of the steep waves of excessive heights and their direction of attack.

However, there are examples of the use of self-rightening pilot boats produced by Rafnar with ÖK Hull desi gn from Rafnar Professionals models .

Can You Right A Capsize Yacht?

There are several ways to upright a capsized yacht. The choice of the method depends on the wind and wave conditions you are sailing in along with the yacht’s capsized state.

If your yacht is capsizing in the direction of the wind blowing, release the mainsheet and tiller. Then, climbing over to the top edge of the yacht, step over the side deck to make the way up to the daggerboard.

Another method is the scoop method. In this method, a heavy person stands on the centerboard, and another person is picked up aboard. Furthermore, the main sheet and jib sheet need to be released to minimize the wind effect when the yacht is in an upright condition.

The traditional method is turning the boat in a way so that the bow and wind directions are along a line. In that state, one of your crew members should keep the boat towards the wind and another one should stand on the centerboard. Then the first crew should get on board from the stern side and pull the other crews as well.

When the vessel is in completely upside-down condition, the centerboard can be moved back into its position. In such a condition, you should stand on the gunwale and pull on a jib sheet and lean out so that the boat comes to the horizontal capsized position. Then adopt a suitable righting technique to bring your yacht to a completely upright state.

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About the author

I worked as an officer in the deck department on various types of vessels, including oil and chemical tankers, LPG carriers, and even reefer and TSHD in the early years. Currently employed as Marine Surveyor carrying cargo, draft, bunker, and warranty survey.

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The Best Small-Boat Rigs

Are you a casual cruiser who values simplicity and ease-of-handling above all else, or a racer who looks to maximize performance with every tack we ask readers about the pros and cons of various rigs.

Article by SCA Editors — Illustrations by Rick Myers

Most of us know sailing rigs are, much like boats themselves, a series of tradeoffs. What any of us considers the “best” rig is really just the best for us, based on our needs, where we sail, and possibly other considerations.

The kind of sailing you do obviously matters as well. Are you a casual cruiser who values simplicity and ease-of-handling above all else, or a racer who looks to maximize performance with every tack? Do you carry an outboard motor or rely on sail and oars only? Do you typically sail with crew or mostly singlehanded?

Where we sail is a factor as well. Exploring the windy San Francisco Bay might have you thinking about sails more easily reefed, where cruising on the light summer winds of South Puget Sound will convince you that any rig ought to start with plenty of sail area. Negotiating shallow water and 30-knot gusts during a Texas 200 will give you new appreciation for the yawl, as you watch boats with these rigs peacefully weathercocked on a sheeted mizzen while you struggle to heave-to.

There are other factors too, like aesthetics or a sailor’s skill level. There some especially handsome traditional rigs with topsails, and running backstays, or little boats with schooner rigs, for example, but with each mast, sail, or new string to pull comes another learning curve. Same goes for racing rigs with lots of fine adjustments and tweakability—while some sailors demand these options, others wouldn’t know what to do with them.

Although we’ve established that “best rig” is subjective, is it possible there are a particular few small-boat rig types that seem to do better generally? Or rigs that consistently get higher marks from their owners?

With this is mind we sent out an e-mail survey to thousands of you asking about your small-boat rig, what you’d consider its strengths and weaknesses, and what you’d choose if you could do it over. What follows are the results of this survey along with any conclusions we were able to draw. We should also point out: A sailing rig is only one part of the performance equation—the same rig on a different hull shape or underbody is obviously going to perform differently. — Eds

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MODERN SAILBOAT DESIGN: Quantifying Stability

We have previously discussed both form stability and ballast stability as concepts, and these certainly are useful when thinking about sailboat design in the abstract. They are less useful, however, when you are trying to evaluate individual boats that you might be interested in actually buying. Certainly you can look at any given boat, ponder its shape, beam, draft, and ballast, and make an intuitive guess as to how stable it is, but what’s really wanted is a simple reductive factor–similar to the displacement/length ratio , sail-area/displacement ratio , or Brewer comfort ratio –that allows you to effectively compare one boat to another.

Unfortunately, it is impossible to thoroughly analyze the stability of any particular sailboat using commonly published specifications. Indeed, stability is so complex and is influenced by so many factors that even professional yacht designers find it hard to quantify. Until the advent of computers, the calculations involved were so overwhelming that certain aspects of stability were only estimated rather than precisely determined. Even today, with computers doing all the heavy number crunching, stability calculations remain the most tedious part of a naval architect’s job.

There are, however, some tools available that you can use to make a sophisticated appraisal of a boat’s stability characteristics. If you dig and scratch a bit–on the Internet, or by pestering a builder or designer–you should be able to unearth one or more of them.

Stability Curves and Ratios

The most common tool used to assess a boat’s form and ballast stability is a stability curve. This is a graphic representation of a boat’s self-righting ability as it is rotated from right side up to upside down. Stability curves are sometimes published or otherwise made available by designers and builders, but to interpret them correctly, you first need to understand the physics of a heeling sailboat.

When perfectly upright, a boat’s center of gravity (CG)–which is a function of its total weight distribution (i.e., its ballast stability)–and its center of buoyancy (CB)–which is a function of its hull shape (i.e., its form stability)–are vertically aligned on the boat’s centerline. CG presses downward on the boat’s hull while CB presses upward with equal force. The two are in perfect equilibrium, and the boat is motionless. If some force heels the boat, however, CB shifts outboard of CG and the equilibrium is disturbed. The horizontal distance created between CG and CB as the boat heels is called the righting arm (GZ). This is a lever arm, with CG pushing down on one end and CB pushing up on the other, and their combined force, known as the righting moment (RM), works to rotate the hull back to an upright position. The point around which the hull rotates is known as the metacenter (M) and is always directly above CB.

The longer the righting arm (i.e., the larger the value for GZ), the greater the righting moment and the harder the hull tries to swing upright again. Up to a point, as a hull heels more, its righting arm just gets longer. The righting moment, consequently, gets larger and larger. This is initial stability. A wider hull has greater initial stability simply because its greater beam allows CB to move farther away from CG as it heels. Shifting ballast to windward also moves CG farther away from CB, and this too lengthens the righting arm and increases initial stability. The angle of maximum stability (AMS) is the angle at which the righting arm for any given hull is as long as it can be. This is where a hull is trying its hardest to turn upright again and is most resistant to further heeling.

Once a hull is pushed past its AMS, its righting arm gets progressively shorter and its ability to resist further heeling decreases. Now we are moving into the realm of ultimate, or reserve, stability. Eventually, if the hull is pushed over far enough, the righting arm disappears and CG and CB are again vertically aligned. Now, however, the metacenter and CG are in the same place, and the hull is metastable, meanings it is in a state of anti-equilibrium. Its fate hangs in the balance, and the least disturbance will cause it to turn one way or the other. This point of no return is the angle of vanishing stability (AVS). If the hull fails to right itself at this point, it must capsize. Any greater angle of heel will cause CG and CB to separate again, except now the horizontal distance between them will be a capsizing arm, not a righting arm. Gravity and buoyancy will be working together to invert the hull.

Stability at work. The righting arm (GZ) gets longer as the center of gravity (CG) and the center of buoyancy (CB) get farther apart, and the boat works harder to right itself. Past the angle of vanishing stability, however, the righting arm is negative and CG and CB are working to capsize the boat

A stability curve is simply a plot of GZ–including both the positive righting arm and the negative capsizing arm–as it relates to angle of heel from 0 to 180 degrees. Alternatively, RM (that is, both the positive righting moment and the negative capsizing moment) can be the basis of the plot, as it derives directly from GZ. (To find RM in foot-pounds, simply multiply GZ in feet by the boat’s displacement in pounds.) In either case, an S-curve plot is typical, with one hump in positive territory and another hopefully smaller hump (assuming the boat in question is a monohull) in negative territory.

The AMS is the highest point on the positive side of the curve; the AVS is the point at which the curve moves from positive to negative territory. The area under the positive hump represents all the energy that must be expended by wind and waves to capsize the boat; the area under the negative hump is the energy (usually only waves come into play here) required to right the boat again. To put it another way: the larger the positive hump, the more likely a boat is to remain right side up; the smaller the negative hump, the less likely it is to remain upside down.

Righting arm (GZ) stability curve for a typical 35-foot cruising boat. The angle of maximum stability (AMS) in this case is 55 degrees with a maximum GZ of 2.6 feet; the angle of vanishing stability (AVS) is 120 degrees; the minimum GZ is -0.8 feet

The relationship between the sizes of the two humps is known as the stability ratio. If you have a stability curve to work from, there are some simple calculations developed by designer Dave Gerr that allow you to estimate the area under each portion of the curve. To calculate the positive energy area (PEA), simply multiply the AVS by the maximum righting arm and then by 0.63: PEA = AVS x max. GZ x 0.63. To calculate the negative energy area (NEA), first subtract the AVS from 180, then multiply the result by the maximum capsizing arm (i.e., the minimum GZ) and then by 0.66: NEA = (180 – AVS) x min. GZ x 0.66. To find the stability ratio divide the positive area by the negative area.

Working from the curve shown in the graph above for a typical 35-foot cruising boat, we get the following values to plug into our equations: AVS = 120 degrees; max. GZ = 2.6 feet; min. GZ = -0.8 feet. The boat’s PEA therefore is 196.56 degree-feet: 120 x 2.6 x 0.63 = 196.56. Its NE is 31.68 degree-feet: (180 – 120) x -0.8 x 0.66 = 31.68. Its stability ratio is thus 6.2: 196.56 ÷ 31.68 = 6.2. As a general rule, a stability ratio of at least 3 is considered adequate for coastal cruising boats; 4 or greater is considered adequate for a bluewater boat. The boat in our example has a very healthy ratio, though some boats exhibit ratios as high as 10 or greater.

You can run these same equations regardless of whether you are working from a curve keyed to the righting arm or the righting moment. The curve in our example is a GZ curve, but if it were an RM curve, we only have to substitute the values for maximum and minimum RM for maximum and minimum GZ. Otherwise the equations run exactly the same way. The results for positive and negative area, assuming RM is expressed in foot-pounds, will be in degree-foot-pounds rather than degree-feet, but the final ratio will be unaffected.

GZ and RM curves are not, however, interchangeable in all respects. When evaluating just one boat it makes little difference which you use, but when comparing different boats you should always use an RM curve. Because righting moment is a function of both a boat’s displacement and the length of its righting arm, RM is the appropriate standard for comparing boats of different displacements. It is possible for different boats to have the same righting arm at any angle of heel, but they are unlikely to have the same stability characteristics. It always takes more energy to capsize a larger, heavier boat, which is why bigger boats are inherently more stable than smaller ones.

Righting moment (RM) stability curves for a 19,200-pound boat and a 28,900-pound boat with identical GZ values. Because heavier boats are inherently more stable, RM is the standard to use when comparing different boats (Data courtesy of Dave Gerr)

Another thing to bear in mind when comparing boats is that not all stability curves are created equal. There are various methods for constructing the curves, each based on different assumptions. The two most commonly used methodologies are based on standards promulgated by the International Measurement System (IMS), a once popular rating rule used in international yacht racing, and by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO). Many yacht designers have developed their own methods. When comparing different boats, you must therefore be sure their curves were constructed according to the same method.

Perfect Curves and Vanishing Angles

To get a better idea of how form and ballast relate to each another, it is useful to compare curves for hypothetical ideal vessels that depend exclusively on one type of stability or the other. A vessel with perfect form stability, for example, would be shaped very much like a wide flat board, and its stability curve would be perfectly symmetrical. Its AVS would be 90 degrees, and it would be just as stable upside down as right side up. A vessel with perfect ballast stability, on the other hand, would be much like a ballasted buoy–that is, a round, nearly weightless flotation ball with a long stick on one side to which a heavy weight is attached, like a pick-up buoy for a mooring or a man-overboard pole. The curve for this vessel would have no AVS at all; there would be just one perfectly symmetric hump with an angle of maximum stability of 90 degrees. The vessel will not become metastable until it reaches the ultimate heeling angle of 180 degrees, and no matter which way it turns at this point, it must right itself.

Ideal righting arm (GZ) stability curves: vessel A, a flat board, is as stable upside down as it is right side up; vessel B, a ballasted buoy, must right itself if turned upside down (Data courtesy of Danny Greene)

Beyond the fact that one curve has no AVS at all and the other has a very poor one, the most obvious difference between the two is that the board (vessel A) reaches its point of no return at precisely the point that the buoy (vessel B) achieves maximum stability. A subtler but critical difference is seen in the shape of the two curves between 0 and 30 degrees of heel, which is the range within which sailboats routinely operate. Vessel A achieves its maximum stability precisely at 30 degrees, and the climb of its curve to that point is extremely steep, indicating high initial stability. Vessel B, on the other hand, exhibits poor initial stability, as the trajectory of its curve to 30 degrees is gentle. Indeed, heeling A to just 30 degrees requires as much energy as is needed to knock B down flat to 90 degrees.

Righting arm (GZ) stability curves for a typical catamaran and a typical narrow, deep-draft, heavily ballasted monohull. Note similarities to the ideal curves in the last figure

To translate this into real-world terms, we need only compare the curves for two real-life vessels at opposite extremes of the stability spectrum. The curve for a typical catamaran, for example, looks similar to that of our board since its two humps are symmetrical. If anything, however, it is even more exaggerated. The initial portion of the curve is extremely steep, and maximum stability is achieved at just 10 degrees of heel. The AVS is actually less than 90 degrees, meaning that the cat, due to the weight of its superstructure and rig, will reach its point of no return even before it is knocked down to a horizontal position. The curve for a narrow, deep-draft, heavily ballasted monohull, by comparison, is similar to that of the ballasted buoy. The only significant difference is that the monohull has an AVS, though it is quite high (about 150 degrees), and its range of instability (that is, the angles at which it is trying to capsize rather than right itself) is very small, especially when compared to that of the catamaran.

The catamaran, due to its light displacement and great initial stability, will likely perform well in moderate conditions and will heel very little, but it has essentially no reserve stability to rely on when conditions get extreme. The monohull because of its heavy displacement (much of it ballast) and great reserve stability, will perform less well in moderate conditions but will be nearly impossible to overturn in severe weather.

What Is An Adequate AVS?

In the real world you will rarely come across stability curves for catamarans. If you do find one, you should probably be most interested in the AMS and the steepness of the curve leading up to it. Monohull sailors, on the other hand, should be most interested in the AVS, and as a general rule the bigger this is the better.

Coastal cruisers sailing in protected waters should theoretically be perfectly safe in a boat with an AVS of just 90 degrees. Assuming you never encounter huge waves, the worst that could happen is you will be knocked flat by the wind, and so as long as you can recover from a 90-degree knockdown, you should be fine. It’s nice to have a safety margin, however, so most experts advise that average-size coastal cruising boats should have an AVS of at least 110 degrees. Some believe the minimum should 115 degrees.

For offshore sailing you want a larger margin of safety. Recovering from a knockdown in high winds is one thing, but in a survival storm, with both high winds and large breaking waves, there will be large amounts of extra energy available to help roll your boat past horizontal. There is near-universal consensus that bluewater boats less than 75 feet long should have an AVS of at least 120 degrees. Because larger boats are inherently more stable, the standard for boats longer than 75 feet is 110 degrees.

The reason 120 degrees is considered the minimum AVS standard for most bluewater boats is quite simple. Naval architects figure that any sea state rough enough to roll a boat past 120 degrees and totally invert it will also be rough enough to right it again in no more than 2 minutes. This, it is assumed, is the longest time most people can hold their breaths while waiting for their boats to right themselves. If you don’t ever want to hold your breath that long, you want to sail offshore in a boat with a higher AVS.

Estimated times of inversion for different AVS values (Data courtesy of Dave Gerr)

As this graph illustrates, an AVS of 150 degrees is pretty much the Holy Grail. A boat with this much reserve stability can expect to meet a wave large enough to turn it right side up again almost the instant it’s turned over.

Other Factors To Consider

Stability curves may look dynamic and sophisticated, but in fact they are based on relatively simple formulas that can’t account for everything that might make a particular boat more or less stable in the real world. For one thing, as with regular performance ratios, the displacement values used in calculating stability curves are normally light-ship figures and do not include the weight that is inevitably added when a boat is equipped and loaded for cruising. Even worse, much of this extra weight–in the form of roller-furling units, mast-mounted radomes, and other heavy gear–will be well above the waterline and thus will erode a boat’s inherent stability. The effect can be quite large. For example, installing an in-mast furling system may reduce your boat’s AVS by as much as 20 degrees. In most cases, you should assume that a loaded cruising boat will have an AVS at least 10 degrees lower than that indicated on a stability curve calculated with a light-ship displacement number.

Another important factor to consider is downflooding. Stability curves normally assume that a boat will take on no water when knocked down past 90 degrees, but this is unlikely in the real world. The companionway hatch will probably be at least partway open, and if the knockdown is unexpected, other hatches may be open as well. Water entering a boat that is heeled to an extreme angle will further destabilize the boat by shifting weight to its low side. If the water sloshes about, as is likely, this free-surface effect will make it even harder for the boat to come upright again.

This may seem irrelevant if you are a coastal cruiser, but if you are a bluewater cruiser you should be aware of the location of your companionway. A centerline companionway will rarely start downflooding until a boat is heeled to 110 degrees or more. An offset companionway, however, if it is on the low side of the boat as it heels, may yield downflood angles of 100 degrees or lower. A super AVS of 150 degrees won’t do much good if your boat starts flooding well before that. To my knowledge, no commonly published stability curve accounts for this factor.

Another issue is the cockpit. An open-transom cockpit, or a relatively small one with large effective drains, will drain quickly if flooded in a knockdown. A large cockpit that drains poorly, however, may retain water for several minutes, and this, too, can destabilize a boat that is struggling to right itself.

This boat has features that can both degrade and improve its stability. The severely offset companionway makes downflooding a big risk during a port tack knockdown or capsize, but the high rounded cabintop and small cockpit footwell will help the boat to right itself

Fortunately, not all unaccounted for stability factors are negative. IMS-based stability curves, for example, assume that all boats have flush decks and ignore the potentially positive effect of a cabin house. This is important, as a raised house, particularly one with a rounded top, provides a lot of extra buoyancy as it is submerged and can significantly increase a boat’s stability at severe heel angles. Lifeboats and other self-righting vessels have high round cabintops for precisely this reason.

ISO-based stability curves do account for a raised cabin house, but not all designers believe this is a good thing. A cabin house only increases reserve stability if it is impervious to flooding when submerged. If it has open hatches or has large windows and apertures that may break under pressure, it will only help a boat capsize and sink that much faster. The ISO formulas fail to take this into account and instead may award high stability ratings to motorsailers and deck-saloon boats with large houses and windows that may be vulnerable in extreme conditions.

Simplified Measures of Stability

In addition to developing stability curves, which obviously are fairly complex, designers and rating and regulatory authorities have also worked to quantify a boat’s stability with a single number. The simplest of these, the capsize screening value (CSV), was developed in the aftermath of the 1979 Fastnet Race. Over a third of the more than 300 boats entered in that race, most of them beamy, lightweight IOR designs, were capsized (rolled to 180 degrees) by large breaking waves, and this prompted a great deal of research on yacht stability. The capsize screening value, which relies only on published specifications and was intended to be accessible to laypeople, indicates whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions.

To figure out a boat’s CSV divide the cube root of its displacement in cubic feet into its maximum beam in feet: CSV = beam ÷ ³√DCF. You’ll recall that a boat’s weight and the volume of water it displaces are directly related, and that displacement in cubic feet is simply displacement in pounds divided by 64 (which is the weight in pounds of a cubic foot of salt water). To run an example of the equation, let’s assume we have a hypothetical 35-foot boat that displaces 12,000 pounds and has 11 feet of beam. To find its CSV, first calculate DCF–12,000 ÷ 64 = 187.5–then find the cube root of that result: ³√187.5 = 5.72; note that if your calculator cannot do cube roots, you can instead take 187.5 to the 1/3 power and get the same result. Divide that result into 11, and you get a CSV of 1.92: 11 ÷ 5.72 = 1.92.

Interpreting the number is also simple. Any result of 2 or less indicates a boat that is sufficiently self-righting to go offshore. The further below 2 you go, the more self-righting the boat is; extremely stable boats have values on the order of 1.7. Results above 2 indicate a boat may be prone to remain inverted when capsized and that a more detailed analysis is needed to determine its suitability for offshore sailing.

As handy as it is, the CSV has limited utility. It accounts for only two factors–displacement and beam–and fails to consider how weight is distributed aboard a boat. For example, if we load our hypothetical 12,000-pound boat with an extra 2,250 pounds for light coastal cruising, its CSV declines to 1.8. Load it with an extra 3,750 pounds for heavy coastal or moderate bluewater use, and the CSV declines still further, to 1.71. This suggests that the boat is becoming more stable, when in fact it may become less stable if much of the extra weight is distributed high in the boat.

Note too that a boat with unusually high ballast–including, most obviously, a boat with ballast in its bilges rather than its keel–will also earn a deceptively low screening value. Two empty boats of identical displacement and beam will have identical screening values even though the boat with deeper ballast will necessarily be more resistant to capsize.

Another single-value stability rating still frequently encountered is the IMS stability index number. This was developed under the IMS rating system to compare stability characteristics of race boats of various sizes. The formula essentially restates a boat’s AVS so as to account for its overall size, awarding higher values to longer boats, which are inherently more stable. IMS index numbers normally range from a little below 100 to over 140. For what are termed Category 0 races, which are transoceanic events, 120 is usually the required minimum. In Category 1 events, which are long-distances races sailed “well offshore,” 115 is the common minimum standard, and for Category 2 events, races of extended duration not far from shore, 110 is normally the minimum standard. Conservative designers and pundits often posit 120 as the acceptable minimum for an offshore cruising boat.

Since many popular cruising boats were never measured or rated under the IMS rule, you shouldn’t be surprised if you cannot find an IMS-based stability curve or stability index number for a cruising boat you are interested in. You may find one if the boat in question is a cruiser-racer, as IMS was once a prevalent rating system. Bear in mind, though, that the IMS index number does not take into account cabin structures (or cockpits, for that matter), and assumes a flush deck from gunwale to gunwale. Neither does it account for downflooding.

Another single-value stability rating that casts itself as an “index” is promulgated by the ISO. This is known as STIX, which is simply a trendy acronym for stability index. Because STIX values must be calculated for any new boat sold inside the European Union (EU), and because STIX is, in fact, the only government-imposed stability standard in use anywhere in the world, it is likely to become the predominant standard in years to come.

A STIX number is the result of many complex calculations accounting for a boat’s length, displacement, beam, ability to shed water after a knockdown, angle of vanishing stability, downflooding, cabin superstructure, and freeboard in breaking seas, among others. STIX values range from the low single digits to about 50. A minimum of 38 is required by the European Union for Category A boats, which are certified for use on extended passages more than 500 miles offshore where waves with a maximum height of 46 feet may be encountered. A value of at least 23 is required for Category B boats, which are certified for coastal use within 500 miles of shore where maximum wave heights of 26 feet may be encountered, and the minimum values for categories C and D (inshore and sheltered waters, respectively) are 14 and 5. These standards do not restrict an owner’s use of his boat, but merely dictate how boats may be marketed to the public.

The STIX standard has many critics, including many yacht designers who do not enjoy having to make the many calculations involved, but the STIX number is the most comprehensive single measure of stability now available. As such, it can hardly be ignored. Many critics assert that the standards are too low and that a number of 40 or greater is more appropriate for Category A boats and 30 or more is best for Category B boats. Others believe that in trying to account for and quantify so many factors in a single value, the STIX number oversimplifies a complex subject. To properly evaluate stability, they suggest, it is necessary to evaluate the various factors independently and make an informed judgment leavened by a good dose of common sense.

As useful as they may or may not be, STIX numbers are generally unavailable for boats that predate the EU’s adoption of the STIX standard in 1998. Even if you can find a number for a boat you are interested in, bear in mind that STIX numbers do not account for large, potentially vulnerable windows and ports in cabin superstructures, nor do they take into account a boat’s negative stability. In other words, boats that are nearly as stable upside down as right side up may still receive high STIX numbers.

The bottom line when evaluating stability is that no single factor or rating should be considered to the exclusion of all others. It is probably best, as the STIX critics suggest, to gather as much information from as many sources as you can, and to bear in mind all we have discussed here when pondering it.

BAYESIAN TRAGEDY: An Evil Revenge Plot or Divine Justice???

Extremely good analysis of the issue. Did you do an engineering degree before law school Charlie? One more thought on stability that is outwith the scope of the indices. In the classic broach, as the vessel rounds up th keel bites the water and makes the turn worse, increasing the apparent wind and angle of heel, making the rudder progressively less effective,until it is powerless at 90 degrees heel. In a centreboarder with the board up, the bow skids off, avoiding a real broach, and hence danger of being forced to the spreaders hitting the water. We were caught in a 25 knot gust with our somewhat oversize spi up, the helmsman fell and let go, yet we never heeled past about 50 degrees. You had some fun on the cboard Che Vive in strong wind from aft. To some extent, this phenomenon mitigates the poorer AVS of the centreboarder. Is it enough? I hope to avoid checking it out in practice

@Neil: You’re right. I think centerboard boats are more stable in some situations, less stable in others, and the situations in which they are more stable are not represented in stability curves. It is an imperfect science, to say the least. For example, a point I probably should have emphasized a bit more strongly in the text is that the capsize screening value was never ever intended to be dispositive. It was only intended to identify boats that should be subjected to a more rigorous analysis. Thus the word “screening.” charlie

Charlie just came across this post while preparing for my next workshop this weekend. It’s flat out great, the best real world explanation of stability I’ve read.

John, Im John. I live in Rural N.C. about 75 minutes inland from New Bern. Im 58, single dad and when my 17 year old graduates next year i will be headed to Thailand….from North Carolina. I will NOT see the Cape to starboard…maybe i will write a book…Panama to Starboard

@John: Coming from you, that’s a real compliment. Thanks, mate!

A bit late in the day given the date of the article. Anyway here goes. The boat properties in this article are obtained under static equilibrium conditions. Thus the moment resistance curve is obtained by calculating the relative positions of the weight of the vessel and the buoyancy force as the hull is caused to rotate or heel- the resistance due to the moment produced by the misalignment of the two forces at various angles of heel. Because the movement takes place extremely slow no account is allowed for the effect of inertia. I would like to make my point my considering the example of a bag of sugar : In the first example (a) the sugar is gently poured from the bag onto the pan of a weigh scale until the required weight is reached , say one pound: thus an oz at a time until the scale pointer is at one pound ! In case (b) the sugar is placed in a bag, and the bag is placed in contact with the scale but then suddenly released. At which point the scale pointer will swing well past the 1 pound mark reaching 2 pounds , and the pointer will oscillate about the one pound mark, eventually coming to rest about this value! In case (c) the bag , instead of being placed in contact with pan is released from a height of one foot before being released. This will cause likely cause the pointer to be bent and a broken weigh scale.

It is a apparent that the properties used to measure a boats stability are derived from the conditions similar to case (a), while in reality they should be deduced from case (c) INERTIA IS IMPORTANT.

Safehaven Marine

When You Demand Strength and Sea-Keeping

World Speed Record holders with our own vessel and crew

Interceptor 48 S.A.R. Self Righting 14.8m Rescue vessel

Self-righting all weather rescue craft fitted with Volvo IPS Drives. Built for the Faroe Island rescue services.

The Interceptor 48 is a 15m S.A.R. (search and rescue vessel). Capable of operating in all weather conditions and fully proven in extreme conditions of wind and wave up to Beaufort Force 10 and 6m waves. The vessel is self-righting, capable of recovering after capsize by any large breaking wave. Powered by twin diesel engines of 500-600hp and capable of a 25-28kts fully loaded (6 crew and full fuel), and an operational speed of 25kts fully loaded. A range of 220nm at cruise with a 10% reserve is provided for by a 2000L fuel capacity. Conventional stern gear and fixed pitch propellers are used for durability. The design has a total seating capacity of 22 persons comprising; 6 crew in the main cabin- helmsman, navigator and radio communications operative, all on shock mitigation seating with additional seating for 3 passengers or survivors provided here. The lower forward cabin comprises a space for casualty stretcher, 8 survivors on air craft style seats and 8 additional survivors accommodate (in an unpredicted emergency situation requiring saving of lives), on bench seating. A separate heads compartment with sea toilet and sink is provide here, as well as a separate large electrical compartment and access to the engine room through a watertight door. The accommodation is fully air-conditioned. The craft has high survivability with 3 watertight bulkheads and a collision bulkhead sub dividing the hull into 5 separate compartments, capable of staying afloat after damage to any one compartment. A transom platform gives access to the waterline and a swing out davit mounted on the cabin roof side and working in tandem with a self tailing winch allows lifting of a casualty from the water. Optionally a transom mounted M.O.B. unconscious casualty recovery platform lowering to below WL and raising to deck level manually or hydraulically can be fitted. Wide side decks and a large aft deck area and forward bow boarding area enclosed by inboard (inc Hadrian rail) / outboard hand railings ensures crew safety and ease of undertaking transfer of persons from a stricken vessel or helicopter at sea.

MAIN TECHNICAL FEATURES

All weather capabilities, up to Beaufort Force 10 and 6m wave heights

Self-righting capabilities, recoverable after capsize by a large breaking wave

33 person emergency survivor capacity- 3 crew + 30 survivors all seated

High survivability, 3 watertight bulkheads, 4 individual compartments, damage survivable should any on compartment flood.

M.O.B / unconscious casualty recover platform on transom with 250kg SWL

25-30kts speed capability and 250nm range

Fully air-conditioned cabin option

Wide side decks and aft deck area for crew safety, enclosed by safety railings

Fully proven in service- 9 vessels in successful operation worldwide

FAROE ISLANDS RESCUE SERVICE S.A.R. Overview

Safehaven Marine have launched an Interceptor 48, self righting lifeboat for the Faroe Islands. She is fitted with Volvo IPS units and D11 600hp engines which provide the vessel with a maximum speed of 30kts. The IPS units incorporate Volvos dynamic positioning system allowing the vessel to hold position and heading whilst stopped, controlled from dual steering positions, as well as her main helm an aft external helm position is provided externally aft, this feature will be very useful when holding station during rescues. The vessel has been fitted out to a very high standard and provides seating for 5 crew on suspension seats and additional seating for 4 passengers, or a stretcher for a casualty in the main cabin. The design also allows facility to carry a further 6 survivors in her large forward cabin. Here a full galley, separate heads and dedicated electrical compartments as well as berths for 2 persons and a comfortable dinette area is provided.

Deck safety is provided by a full length outboard safety rail specially designed to hinge inwards to prevent damage to the railing when undertaking boarding's, this is augmented with an with inboard hand rail incorporating a Hadrian safety rail. MOB recovery is via a swing out 'A' frame and Jason's cradle stored in a recessed locker in the superstructure side. Waterline access is provided by a dive platform at the transom. Fendering is as on our pilot vessels meaning 'substantial' and capable of protecting the vessel when undertaking boarding rescues offshore in bad weather. A 3.5kw 240V generator supplies AC throughout the vessel. The vessel is equipped with a very comprehensive navigation and radio communications package, based on Raymarine's E series 165 displays, featuring HD radar, GPS plotter, sonar, autopilot, Rhotheta direction finder, Sailor SSB radio & DCS VHF, gyroscopically stabilized FLIR thermal camera, 4 zone CCTV cameras and lap top computer all controled at a dedicated navigators position just aft to st/bd of her central main helm position.

The vessel has been fitted out to a very high standard and provides seating for 5 crew on suspension seats and additional seating for 4 passengers, or a stretcher for a casualty in the main cabin. The design also allows facility to carry a further 6 survivors in her large forward cabin. Here a full galley, separate heads and dedicated electrical compartments as well as berths for 2 persons and a comfortable dinette area is provided.

Engineering

The vessel is 'self righting' being capable of recovering from a 180 degree roll over due to the buoyancy of her cabin, multiple special features are incorporated to maintain watertight integrity and crew safety in the event of capsize in heavy seas. The vessel is built to DMA Pilot boat regulations with her hull under survey to Bureau Veritas. During sea trials in a full force 9 storm and 4m seas she matched all expectations proving fast and very manoeuvrable, fully demonstrating the expected excellent seakeeping of Safehaven's Interceptor 48 hull, indeed it was Safehaven's reputation for building strong, seaworthy vessels that led the Faroe Islands rescue service visit Safehaven as being situated in the exposed North Atlantic they experience very stormy weather and high sea states during the winter months.

Additional Images & Video

Safehaven Marine search and rescue boat 4

Safehaven Marine LTD, Foxhole, Youghal, Co Cork, Ireland | (IRL) 086 8054582 (Int) 00353 86 8054582 | [email protected]

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cruising sailboat 39

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Small Shallow Draught Self-Righting Sailer
Small Shallow Draught Self-Righting Sailer
Com Pac 16/2, 1987, Clinton, Iowa, sailboat for sale from Sailing Texas
Small Shallow Draught Self-Righting Sailer
Elling Yachts Puts its 'Self-Righting Hulls' Claim to the Ultimate Test
New Interceptor 38 Self Righting S. A. R for Sale

VIDEO

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Lifeboat SELF RIGHTING TEST.avi
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Self righting boat!
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COMMENTS

10 Best Small Sailboats (Under 20 Feet)
Catalina 16.5. jlodrummer. Catalina Yachts are synonymous with bigger boats but they have some great and smaller boats too such as Catalina 16.5. This is one of the best small sailboats that are ideal for family outings given that it has a big and roomy cockpit, as well as a large storage locker.
Best Small Sailboats Under 20 feet
A. Comfortable Cabin: The Catalina 18 features a small but comfortable cabin, providing a place to escape the elements or even spend a night on the water. This feature sets it apart from many other small sailboats. B. Self-Righting Design: The boat's keel design makes it self-righting, which means it can recover from a capsize easily.
Ptarmigan 17
Both of the Ptarmigan 17's sail rigs are gaff-rigged. The single-mast catboat rig carries a sail area of 139 sq ft and includes the dimensions for an optional 24-sq-ft jib. The yawl rig's total sail area is a little smaller at 135 sq ft, with a main of 79 sq ft, a jib of 36 sq ft, and a leg-o'-mutton mizzen of 20 sq ft.
Boat
Self-righting from 100°, unsinkable. agile. Maneuverable, points high, planes. convenient. Lifting keel, self-tacking jib. comfortable. Padded deck, large open cockpit. Specifications and line drawings here More photos here. PUUR 17 reviews. ... Puur Sailboat Company, Puur 17, Puur Method, and the sail-and-keel P are trademarks owned by Puur ...
13 Popular Trailerable Sailboats with Lifting Keels
The fifteen and nineteen foot models have been fixtures at boat shows and in harbors, and sailors have even crossed oceans in these doughty little boats. The fifteen displaces only 475 pounds, with 165 pounds of ballast in the lifting keel. It's self righting and self bailing, with added foam for stability and floatation.
Best Small Sailboats, Beginner and Trailerable Sailboats
The roomy cockpit is self-bailing, and the bow harbors a good-sized storage area with a waterproof hatch. catalinayachts.com. Hobie 16. Hobie 16 Hobie. No roundup of best small sailboats (trailerable and fun too) would be complete without a mention of the venerable Hobie 16, which made its debut in Southern California way back in 1969. The ...
Best Pocket Cruiser Sailboats, Small Cruising Sailboats
Balboa 26. Balboa 26 Courtesy Of Matts G. Djos. First splashed in 1969, the Balboa 26 continues to enjoy a strong following among budget-minded cruisers. Built sturdy and heavy, all of the boat's stress points are reinforced. The spacious cockpit comfortably seats 4 and is self bailing, ensuring that sailors stay dry.
Best Small Sailboats Under 20 Feet
Smaller boats are easy to navigate and not a hassle to maintain compared to larger yachts, which is why many choose sailboats under 20 feet as the ideal starter boat. From the Catalina 16.5 to the Beneteau First 20 or the Marlow Hunter 15, there are many smaller sailboats under 20 feet that offer beginner or expert sailors great value for money ...
Best Pocket Cruisers Under 20 Feet
Catalina 16.5 is the largest sailboat that the brand makes under 20 feet. The Catalina brand is known for its own large cruise boats, but they have small boats too. This boat is a hand-laminated fiberglass sloop, which is one of the most versatile boats, and it has two options, i.e. one with a centerboard (5″) and shoal-draft keel (4'5″).
Elling Yachts Puts its 'Self-Righting Hulls' Claim to ...
The E4 and E6 models from Elling Yachts are just such examples, designed to be self-righting: that is, to return upright from a 180-degree inversion. Yes, you read that right. With broad-beamed hulls and generous freeboard carried right aft by an almost dead-straight sheer, and with stout-looking low deckhouses, the Dutch builder's E4 and E6 ...
Weekender
Under sail, the Weekender is like a sports car and very snappy in response on most points of sail. It can sail remarkably close to the wind for a gaff rig, and the self-tending jib makes tacking a snap. Its club foot is an excellent touch to the rigging, making singlehanding very simple. The Weekender can ghost along with hardly any discernible wind, although in light air it can be a bit hard ...
How Does A Self-Righting Boat Work? Life-Changing Approach!
Self-righting boat means a boat that can roll back to upright condition by itself even after mighty external forces like wind and wave cause the vessel upside down. The vanishing stability of a self-righting boat is almost 180 degrees. The vanishing stability is an angle up to which a vessel shows a positive self-righting moment.
The Best Small-Boat Rigs
Rig Details. In terms of the types of sails specifically, the high-aspect Bermudan sail was the most popular at 41%, but another sail, the Balance Lug, seemed better represented than expected, with 24% of you sporting this sail that employs a yard and boom, both of which extend past the mast on the same side.
MODERN SAILBOAT DESIGN: Quantifying Stability
The further below 2 you go, the more self-righting the boat is; extremely stable boats have values on the order of 1.7. Results above 2 indicate a boat may be prone to remain inverted when capsized and that a more detailed analysis is needed to determine its suitability for offshore sailing.
Self Righting 48
Overview. The Interceptor 48 posses exceptional levels of sea keeping abilities, and is capable of operating in all weather conditions, seen here undergoing sea trials at the entrance to Cork Harbour in Force 11 and near 10m breaking seas . This Interceptor 48 SAR craft is fitted with Volvo D13 500hp (rating 1, heavy duty continuous) engines ...
15' Micro cruiser
Boat Building Supplies. Resins&Hardeners. Epoxy Resin, Laminating, FGCI 1 Gallon; Epoxy Activator, 2:1, FGCI 1/2 Gallon; Epoxy Activator, 2:1, FGCI 1 Gallon; Fillers and additives. Wood Flour 5Qt (Premium Hardwood) Fumed silica 5QT; Microballoons 5QT; cloths and reinforcements. E-Glass cloth 4oz/sq.yd. 50″ wide; E-Glass cloth 6oz/sq.yd. 60 ...
10 great daysailers
From a safety perspective, with almost 400kg of ballast the boat is self-righting, the cockpit is self-draining and there's ample built-in buoyancy. ... Close to 500 have been built over a period of more than 20 years, with resale values remaining high. A model with a small 2-berth cabin, which neatly complements the ethos of the original ...
Self Righting 38
11.7m. Based on our very successful Interceptor 38 pilot, four of which have. just been delivered to the Azores Islands . The Interceptor Pilot / S.A.R. vessel has been designed for multiple operational roles of pilotage, patrol and search & rescue, and in this latter respect, the design is self righting. Numerous special features have been ...
S.A.R. 48 Rescue
The Interceptor 48 is a 15m S.A.R. (search and rescue vessel). Capable of operating in all weather conditions and fully proven in extreme conditions of wind and wave up to Beaufort Force 10 and 6m waves. The vessel is self-righting, capable of recovering after capsize by any large breaking wave. Powered by twin diesel engines of 500-600hp and ...
SAIL Top 10 Best Boats for 2023
For almost 20 years, we've called this awards program SAIL Best Boats, but this year, we're refining and renaming this program to better and more fairly represent the boats we've selected. Restricting boats to categories and labels—such as Best Cruising Monohull 30-40 feet and Best Performance Monohull 40-50 feet—doesn't bring our readers the full picture.
Self-righting sailboat, Self-righting open sailboat
sport keelboat sailboat VENTURE CONNECT. lifting keel twin rudders with bowsprit. Contact. Overall length: 4.9 m. Width: 2 m. Draft: 0.9, 0.3 m. This is the self - righting keelboat version of the RS Venture, with a lifting bulb keel for exceptional security and seaworthiness. Its large, self -draining cockpit makes the RS Venture ...
Capsizing
It is often accomplished with a self-sealing superstructure, such as the large deckhouses on modern rescue boats. [11] Most small craft intended as lifeboats with rigid (rather than inflatable) hulls designed since about the middle of the twentieth century are self-righting. [citation needed] Small radio-controlled boats may also self-right.
The Self-Righting Debate
"A self-righting lifeboat is essentially a shallow-water boat, and the self-righting principle ought to be confined to comparatively small and light boats. In fact, the Self-Righting Boat has been devised simply because deep-water boats were impossible in certain places, and as long as lifeboats are required on coasts where there is shallow ...

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